solder

[Mac]

I am trying to connect the wires from the ESC to the motor, and I am having terrible luck getting the solder to stick.... what am I doing wrong? What type should I use? please help!

[Grizzbob]

Well, first things first, exactly what soldering iron are you using? It's possible yours isn't getting hot enough to make a good solder joint.....:cool:

[Mac]

I don't know.... It is just a long soldering iron... not the gun type... I solder from the coil is melting, but I am having a hard time controlling it and getting it to stick... Is there different types of solder? What is the best? What about Irons?

[TRI-TURBO]

Try using Soldering Flux, its usally in the solder ( well the one i use) and its a dark brown sticky liquid which helps stick the solder onto a metal. im pretty sure you can get it where ever soldering irons & accesorie are sold.

[Grizzbob]

Ok, Mac, tell you what, see if you can read anything on your iron, like maybe something stamped into the metal part near the handle. There should be something there that says like..."25 watts", or 45 watts, etc. FYI, if your iron is only something like a 25 watt one, then that's why you're having soldering trouble, those just won't get hot enough to make a GOOD solder joint. For motors & batteries, I'd recommend nothing less than 40 watts, & be sure it has a decent sized tip(like a fairly big chisel) so you'll have plenty of surface area to conduct the iron's heat. It sounds like you have what are called "cold" solder joints, they sort of connect, but they're not truly bonded, so it comes apart easily(& it won't conduct electricity very well, either).....:cool:

[Shakes]

Flux does help the flow of solder but if I remember right you are not supposed to use flux on electrical connections. ( I may be wrong on that one but I thought I read that on my solder tube)

Anyway make sure the tip is good meaning no chunks missing and its not real burnt. Silver solder flows good for me and gives a connection with less resistance. Rough up the part where you are soldering too. If you are soldering wires from the esc to the motor take sand paper and scuff the motor tabs real good. This gives the solder something to stick too. Then I use motor cleaner to spray the tabs clean.

Aply a little solder to the wire and the motor tab, this is called tinning. Then place the wire on the motor tab and heat the wire. The solder should melt together. Then take the solder iron off and hold the wire steady till it hardens ( use pliers cause the wire will get hot). A shiny joint is a good connection where a dull solder joint means a not so good joint.

[Grizzbob]

As for brands of irons, I'm still partial to Weller, & you can even find a somewhat decent one at Sears for less than $25(& it's a 40 watt one with a good tip, so it should work well). When you're ready to solder, you should melt a bit of it into the wire you're about to connect(it's called tinning the wire), then put the tinned part to the metal you want to connect it to & hold it to the metal with the tip of the iron. If you did it right, some of the solder in the wire should flow onto the metal surface & bond with it(just be sure to use something to hold the wire onto the surface after removing the iron, like the tip of a screwdriver, & give it a few seconds to cool. Once it's cool, you should have a good joint....:cool:

[Railman]

If I missed this point, I apoligize, but near as I can tell, no one answered his querstion on what kind of solder to use. Most of the stuff sold these days aat dept, & hardware stores is all lead free solder. It is horrible for electrcal work. Go to Radio Shack & get some 60/40 ( or 40/60?) rosin core solder. If that's what your already using, then these guys should have you covered.;)
Joe

[Grizzbob]

That's true, I'd forgotten about that(but I really suspect he has the right solder, I really think it's his iron)....:)

[SteveH]

60/40 is the best way to go. Stay away from the lead free crap, it can be used, but, you really need to be good at soldering to get decent results with it. Also, you could be getting your parts to hot, which is just as bad if not worse then not hot enough. Get some scrap wire and practice soldering them together first.

[aliikane]

Make sure the connections and where you are going to solder is clean. You can clean it with some sand paper or steel wool. Flux does is help the solder flow to where you want it to. Shakes brings up a good issue if you are supposed to use flux on electrical connections. I am also wondering about that.

[MaxxQbn]

I am also having trouble soldering wires to deans connectors for battery hookups. I think I am using 60/40 solder and I have a 100 watt soldering gun. I think to gun is too hot, I actually melted one of the deans connectors. Any suggestions aside from the pevios posts.

[SteveH]

When using flux, start touching the part you want to solder as soon as the flux starts to boil. Don't touch the solder to the gun tip though.

[Mac]

Iron is 30w/120v - 50/60Hz

I am using 60/40 Rosin Core Solder -- Dia: 1.0mm Weight: 17 grams (Electro-Tek)


I guess my problem is the iron? The solder just "melts" and balls up.... it won't stick anything.... I am getting very frustrated!

It sound like from the readings that I should try a different iron...


Is that correct?

[SteveH]

You could try another iron, but, what type of flux are you are you using. Also, if you are soldering large parts, a stronger gun is a good idea.

[Mac]

I am not using flux.... This is all I have..... PLEASE HELP! What do I need to do????

[SteveH]

You got to use flux, you are not getting a good heat transfer.
That is one of the main purposes of flux, to give a good heat transfer (as well as helping the solder stick). Get some, it's not expensive and I think you'll find yourself soldering much better.
I use flux even with solder with "Flux core"

[Grizzbob]

I would say it's time for a new iron(& it's also possible that your current iron's tip isn't tinned, so solder won't easily stick to it). Like I said earlier, I'd go for at least a 40 watt one, & really they're not hard to find for a reasonable price(like I also said, I've seen some 40 watt Weller irons at Sears for about $25, & it has a good sized tip too). That & possibly some liquid flux should solve all your problems.....:)

[Mark Wylam]

I have read all of these posts and find a few to be misleading when it comes to solder technology. First, leaded (60/40) solder versus lead free alloys. Do yourself and our envoroment a favor and stop purchasing leaded products. Anything leaded solder can do, a lead free can do safer, with a stronger bond. Take that spool of leaded solder spool down to your local HAZMAT disposal. When choosing a solder and flux, it is important to consider what exactly you are joining. Metal to metal connections requires the use of a flux. Rosin Core fluxes are predominatly used for circuit boards in that the organic compounds will not destroy the boards. Petro and water solubles both contain acids that will destroy the boards. Obviously, water soluble fluxes can be removed immediatly after the process with water, no harsh chemical cleaners involved. It is important to "rough up" or scratch the metal being soldered. Plumbers open mesh sand cloth works well for this. Remember, do not touch the roughed up surfaces, the oil on your hands will cause you trouble. Immediatly after roughing up the metal, appli a small amount of water soluble flux. Place the two pieces of metal together and plave your soldering iron on them. It is important to build up the heat in the metals first, without that your solder will make an inferior "cold" connection. Let the metals melt the solder. As soon as it starts to flow, remove the heat. Remember one thing, solder follows flux and heat. Do not overheat the metals or the solder. All solders have a "pasty range" or a working temperature. Once you go above that temperature, solder turns to a water consistancy and will bead up and not flow correctly. For the high end use, a silver bearing product (6% - don't be fooled) will do all your connections (electrical and dis-similar metals). You will pay a bit more for it but the results are second to none. Also, check your irons, lead free melts at 430 degrees, 580 degrees is too hot. Stay close to 430 and the connections set up faster with less chance of gaps.