View Full Version : Enya 1.20 setup & adjust help
cudaboy_1971
05-11-2002, 05:42 PM
i've got an enya 120 i picked up at a swap sale a few years ago. i didnt get a manual with the thing and i dunno what i'm doin with that goofy carb.
first off, what is the nipple under the driveshaft (right behind the prop threads) for? looks like some kinda breather...does it need to be attached to anything?
second, and most importantly, i dont get the carb at all. not a standard high speed low speed needle affair.
does anyone have a manual they can scan and send me, or just post some basic info on adjusting the thing?
here's what's happening:
i've got it on a greatplanes superskybolt. it starts *KINDA* easy....takes about 5 minutes to get it going...but it does get going---w/ electric starter.
once its going, and warm, transition seems ok on the ground. i left my tach turned on in the toolbox so i dont have a reading (dead batteries :( ) but, i just adjust the hispeed needle until WOT starts to lose RPM, then back off 1/8 turn.
after i take off, i get a good 20 seconds of flight. inverted, knife edge, whatever...fine.
then, it just dies. no RPM spike lean out...just konks out.
i pulled the cowl off thinking its not getting enough o2 and it gets a minute or two further into the flight, but then same thing....deadstick???
mucho confused. hep me out please.
Dave Robelen
05-11-2002, 08:35 PM
Hi Cudaboy,
It sounds to me like you have compression problems. When you pull it over onto the compression stroke does it feel nice and "springy"? Or does the prop pull through fairly quickly with only some resistance? If there is any question, shut it down when it is warmed up and try the compression then. If it is soft, as I suspect, you either have problems with the valve adjustment or seal, or the ring needs replacement. These engines need good seal to pump fuel, and it sure sounds like that is your problem area.
The little nipple near the bearings is a breather and drain. Letting the engine spend some time with this n the bottom after the last flight will clear a lot of the corrosive fluids away from the bearings.
Regards, Dave
cudaboy_1971
05-11-2002, 08:46 PM
o.k. thanks for the info.
i'm gonna head out to the field tomorrow and check the compression as you suggested. hopefully its just the valve adjustment. any special instructions on that? like i said....no manuals.
i've got a ys .91 that i adjust to about .04 and runs sweet....same for the enya?
cudaboy_1971
05-13-2002, 08:36 PM
went out to the field today for some bench and air time. good news mostly.
first thing i did was adjust the valves. my ys .91 ac said to adjust between .04 and .1 mm...so i shot for the middle with the enya and dialed in .07mm.
i did learn something about that carb by accident--the throttle arm pulls in and out--choke....now it doesnt take 5 minutes of cranking.
fired up after two 5 second starter bursts.
still dont know how to adjust the low speed...it doesnt have a needle. but, transition seems o.k....so i left it.
hi speed needed a little adjustment after the valve adjust and hit the runway.
full tank of gas...inverted, knife edge, nasty rolls, etc.
thanks for all the help.
oh...forgot...i also upped to an os F plug from a fox miracle plug....that prolly did the most good.
if you have any ideas about the low end adjustments i'm all ears.
Red Baron
10-07-2006, 04:21 PM
This has to be one of my favorite engines. This engine loves to be fed more than enough on the high end and starved on the low end. I use a perry oscilating pump to feed the beast. The high speed needle is used to gain max rpm with the model in a vertical position then richened just a tad. With a Master Air Screw 15 x 8 I would get 7500 on the ground and with a 14 x 10 Top Flight Wood (my favorite prop for this engine) I would get 8500 (balance the prop). The APC 14 X 12 has very similar performance. When you have the carb adjusted right the engine should sound like a lawn mower engine. when it is just crusing along it should be nice an steady, but when you do a manuver it should sound like a lawn mower when it has a load on it. The engine should pull harder through the manuver. If you hear the engine knocking at all richen the mixture. The carb should have an air bleed carb adjustment screw. This is a little screw with a spring on it. I adjust this very lean and then set the idle with the trim tab. This engine is so reliable that these adjustments have not been reset for years. For safety I always can kill the engine with the trim tab and the throtle pulled back. To start the engine I set to full throttle (do not attach the glow plug battery yet) set the choke and pull the engine through once or twice. Then I release the choke and flip the engine a few times. I set the throttle at a high idle, attach the glow plug battery and flip it one time forward or backwards. It will start almost every time. Before I put the ascilating pump it would kill with out warning just as you described. After I put the pump, no kills and great performance. A friend of mine has the 120 geared pump version and I guess this is why they came out with a pump on the engine. The enya glow plug workes best and I run 15% nitro and sinth/caster oil mix.
Hope this helps.