wild dagger forum

[Clodzilla Crazy]

:D

[Clodzilla Crazy]

I don't know, what's the difference between the new Twin Detonator and Wild Dagger, they basically look the same only the body is different

[narfer007]

he Clodzilla crazy do you have any drawings (with dimentions) of that chassis? or do you have any tips for making a drawing?

[dave56bug]

w w w . r c m t . n e t has a great Wild Dagger forum with chassis design plans, shock tower plans etc.

Dave.

[dave56bug]

Yeah the Twin Detonator and the Wild Dagger are exactly the same chassis, the only differences being, the different body, and white rims instead of grey.

Dave.

[narfer007]

Originally posted by dave56bug
w w w . r c m t . n e t has a great Wild Dagger forum with chassis design plans, shock tower plans etc.

Dave.

can you post some pic's or something because I can't get on that forum

[t3racerx]

would anyone be interested in a coversion kit to make the dagger 1 inch wider and 1 inch longer? I am working on this kit right now, I made a pair of alluminum chassis rails yesterday that is 1 inch longer with an extra batt. slot for dual batts, (this is not cut out on a band saw, this is machined on a cnc mill.) I also made a set of alluminum arms that are 1/2 inch wider than the stock arms, giving a total gain of 1 inch width. also going to make some new shock towers to run longer shocks (emaxx) I can make the towers out of alluminum or fiberglass.
if anyone would have any interest in a coversion kit like this let me know, I may be able to put together some kits for a reasonable price.
I'll try to get some pics up soon

[Janders]

Depends on what you mean by a reasonable price $$. There are a few CF and aluminum chassis out there, and a couple 'one offs'.

[t3racerx]

I have seen a few out there for around 130 bucks for the chassis and towers, I am thinking I can do the chassis, towers, and arms for around 100

[hanafuda]

Clodzilla - what shocks do you have on that Dagger?

As for the Twin Detonator, I believe that both front and rear gearboxes come ready built.

[creep]

What would you do about dogbones? Won't the stock bones fall out if you make the arms longer? And would you include new steering & camber links with your kit? (sorry for all the ?s but this is stuff I think we need to know):)

[dave56bug]

Yeah, what you going to do for dogbones?

Converting to Duratrax maximum MT suspension components will get you wider as well......

Dave.

[t3racerx]

the kit would include all parts to make it work ie: dogbones, tie rods ect.

[1BadMan]

Im interested;)

[Janders]

I'd like to see the prototype

[t3racerx]

hope to have the full prototype done next week, I'll post pics as soon as it's done

[3nit]

its been a while since i've been here... i've been spending more time at the "other" forum *wink **** *wink

i look around and around and i see a lot of familiar faces....

-3nit a.k.a madhaw

[Clodzilla Crazy]

Originally posted by hanafuda
Clodzilla - what shocks do you have on that Dagger?

As for the Twin Detonator, I believe that both front and rear gearboxes come ready built.

I think I'm use Tamiya's aluminium TA03 Super Low Friction Damper

[Clodzilla Crazy]

I can't believe this, three new truck by tamiya and all of them are exactly the same, Blackfoot-Xtreme, Twin Detonator and Mighty Bull but Mighty Bull and Blackfoot-Xtreme are 2WD

Is Tamiya running out of idears? :(

Mighty Bull

[Clodzilla Crazy]

:(

[creep]

Hopefully now we can get some hop-ups:D Does the Mighty bull and Blackfoot Xtreme have different bumpers than the Twin' and 'Dagger? They look a little bigger and it also looks like they stick out farther.:confused:

[creep]

Originally posted by dave56bug


Converting to Duratrax maximum MT suspension components will get you wider as well......

Dave.

Can you just use the arms, drive shafts, and camber links or do you have to use the axles, hubs, and knuckles too? Can you list all the parts needed for the swap?

[dave56bug]

You'll need a full set of lower arms, then get two sets of CVD joints, then you'll need the aluminum wheel hub, hinge pins, rear hub carriers, front hub carriers, front knuckles, and all the misc, screws nuts etc, also you'll need some turnbuckles for the upper arms, and for steering. (not sure what length)


Its easiest to go to www.towerhobbies.com, and look at the parts listing for Maximum mt.

Dave.

[Janders]

Did you do the prototype?

this forum definitely isn't too active..*cough* r c m t . n e t *cough*

[Janders]

just to give you an idea of what people have done/some off the stuff out there
http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~rtdodd/Dag/StretchSide3.jpg
http://images.sounddomain.com/member_images/2/web/134000-134999/134997_75_full.jpg
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jan/20041114299109999700105.jpg
http://www.thundertechracing.com/pics/Adjmm5.jpg
http://www.cascadeaccess.com/~rtdodd/Dag/Bellcrank1.jpg
http://www.rcguy.com/images/shocktower/thumbs/shocktowerwd.jpg
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Nov/200311287877795171037494.jpg

sorry about the bandwidth :eek:

[dave56bug]

Check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3176642981&category=34063


Dave.

[hanafuda]

Going back to the new truck info, the Mighty Bull is one of the XB - expert built series, so is ready made.

The Super Clod Buster is also due out at the end of March in Japan.

[krisI.925]

hey iv got a wild dagger rolling chassis for sale with kyosho gold shocks for $35 shipped if anyone is interested email me at kris925@hotmail.com

[Spoon37]

hey....though I'd say hi!

they call me the dagger guru on R C M T.net

I'll post pix later - photisland seems to be dying right this second....:mad:

;)

*why is the acronym for "Radio Controlled Monster Truck" being changed to stars as if it is a dirty word???:confused: - if its cause its a rival forum you cant bury your heads in the sand and pretend that other more specialised forums do not exist.

[RichieRich]

Do you guys like the shock towers by xtreme racing? I'd like to get some for my Blackfoot Xtreme. The stock setup is weak. Longer shocks seem to make more sense. Thanks!

[dave56bug]

Yep, everything made my Xtreme is super high quality.

I think Xtreme and RCGuy brand shock towers available from www.rc4wd.com


Dave.

[dave56bug]

I donno, i guess someone here got denied at R C M T so they cut off linking to it. lol

Dave.

[Spoon37]

hey dave!

I hope thats not the case - we should promote other RC forums as it is better for the hobby as a whole. fact is I am here because of a link to info on weebs 6x6 juggy from the mutant forum on R C M T.

I see no reason why the name of another forum should be banned tho.....

;)

[Janders]

Originally posted by dave56bug
I donno, i guess someone here got denied at R C M T so they cut off linking to it. lol

Dave.

lol!

I think everyone sets their ezboard wrong at least once, and get get denied at r c m t.

Radiocontrolzone 'blacks out' a lot of links-not really sure why, but the forum is pretty decent.

[Tamiya4ever]

I Noticed some aluminum blue arms and hubs for the Wild Dagger while checking out the Xtreme shock mounts. Are they GPMs?

[3nit]

i look around and around and i see a lot of familiar names... :D

this is the first rc forum i joined but it tends to sleep every now and then... so i moved to... you know where.

(how do you instantly turn letters into asterisks?)
type Rrr Ccc Mmm Ttt!!! :p

-madhaw

[Tamiya4ever]

Whats a good replacemt driveshaft? Does MIP make CDVs for the Wild Dagger? Or does GPM make universals? Also what parts are needed to replace the suspenstion arms? :)

[creep]

I think GPM makes universals. As for the arms you have to get the C-parts tree (prt # 0005688). One tree makes 1 front and 1 back arm. I can't find them on the internet so you will probably have to order them straight from Tamiya or have your LHS order them for you.

[Tamiya4ever]

Are these it? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGL56&P=7

These are the arms for the TL01. I checked the Tamiya website and the Wild Dagger parts breakdown page, these look like they are it.

[creep]

No, those are much shorter than the Dagger's arms

[Tamiya4ever]

Hmm ok. I wonder what part they are then. :confused:

[hanafuda]

I upgraded my Dagger with a set of Tamiya aluminium oil dampers (can't remember the part number) but they are too short for a satisfying ride. They are set as long as possible, but it isn't enough and is probably about 5mm shorter than the stock shocks.

Can anyone recommend some more suitable shocks (preferably Tamiya, if not, a brand I can get in Japan).

[hanafuda]

My Super Rooster is now finally on order, so I should have it soon.

In the meantime, I need to work out exactly what I need to do in order to make the conversion from stock MSC to the new ESC. I want to run the motors in parallel.

My soldering skills are poor at best, so would like some ideas at how I should practise before I start the job in hand - I don't want to ruin a brand new Rooster.

Also, if anyone has any tips in regard to the type of joins / connectors / wiring that I should use I would appreciate it. I heard that the Rooster comes with a diagram to explain how to wire it up to two motors in parralel plus the receiver and battery so I should be covered there.

[Spoon37]

blue alu bits are all made by GPM. they do GPM universals, and also Tamiya hotshot dogbones and universals are better than stock albeit hard/rare to find.

Tamiya4ever you need TL01B: C parts, the dagger uses the long arm suspension of the TL01B (B as in Buggy), this is a subtle yet important difference. not to be confused with the long arm TL01 on road cars the TL01LA - obvious really.... :rolleyes:

hanafuda: for the stock shock towers use any good quality 3" shocks, I am unfortunatley unable to recall what Tamiya calls its 3" shocksas almost all its shock range is called short or mini or small or something it doesntb make it easy, but anything tahts around 3" or 80mm long should work - GPM should do some cheap ones....(ok they're in HK, but its closer than the USA).

alternatively it is easy to make extended shock towers that would allow for 4" long(approx 100mm) shocks to be used which are much better and give more travel. some 3mm alu sheet and some simple tools(drill hacksaw and file) should allow you to make something like this:

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jul/2004788448610836091246.jpg
sorry I dont have a good pic of just the towers, that dagger has a lot of other custom work done by me.....

the towers raise the shock mount postitions about 35mm and space them out by 20mm or so, this allow the use of almost any 4" shock allowing more travel and a smoother ride....

as for motor wiring parralell is best and easy to do: all you need do is make a Y shaped lead to take power to both motors equally. I recommend solderingthe wires seperatly as a Y peice made from 3 bits of wire and then solder these to the ESC wires, and the motor connection - or crimp on some bullet connectors if you prefer. NOTE the dagger/TD uses one reverse rotation motor so the wires will need swapping on the front motor only, otehrwise it wont go anywhere fast(if you hit the throttle and it jumps up but doesnt move forwads or back wards you've got it wrong -we've all been there...lol).

as for soldering itself, it is easier if you pre-tin the wires and contacts first, that is to say melt some solder onto the surface of each seperatley before attmepting to solder them together, the reason being that the solder sticks best to itself. making the Y lead can be difficult, and even fustrating but take your time - if at all possible try to find a way of clamping or securing the three wires to leave you hands free to manipulate the soldering iron and solder.

for soldering directly onto motors(or batteries for that matter) yopu nees to use 2 tricks that make it much easier: #1 grind or sand the area where you are ghoing to solder his makes the solder stick better as the surface is no longer slippery or smooth. secondly get some soldering flux, apply to the surface prior to trying to solder wires to the metal, the flux will melt down and the solder/wire will seem to be sucked onto the contact making a very strong soldered joint.

however as useless as this may sound the only really good way to improve soldering skills is practice practice practice - I used to be rubbish at it 5 years ago, now I'm pretty good, I prolly should buy a better soldering iron mind....lol(got a cheapy 40watt iron, and powerful soldering gun which is good for soldering battery bars but little else)

hope that helps. for some reason on another message board(R C M T) they call me the dagger guru.... :p

[hanafuda]

Thanks for all of the information.

I notice on the Super Rooster instructions it doesn't use the Y method when wiring the motors in parallel, but instead simply links the second motor to the first by another pair of cables. This method seems simpler for me (who is a novice at soldering), but will I notice much difference in power? I can see that the Y method makes distribution to the motors more even, but is the difference really that noticeable?

Incidentally, I am thinking of getting a pair of Trinity Speed Gem Amber 17T Doubles. From the look of things I can set these to neutral timing, and they will deliver a good amount of both speed and torque. Do you recommend these units?

[Spoon37]

No problem ;)

I find explaining it as Y shape easier, the SR instructions method works just fine tho.

the only problem is when you compare the pics of series vs parralell on the rooster instructions they look similar, whereas if you describe the parralell method as a Y shape it looks very different to series.(there is an error in the super rooster instructions, it suggests series wring gives more torque, this is not true, it halves the power/torque but increases runtime by nearly double)

speed gems amber are excellent motors for the dagger, they will give good speed and torque without sacrificing too much runtime(lower turn mods really kill runtime). I would recommed getting the pro versions of the ambers if you can get them, these use the bigger P-94 brushes, which deliver more power and last longer than regular motor brushes - for me replacing brushes less often is a major plus point!:D

;)

[hanafuda]

It took a while, but the conversion is now complete, courtesy of a Super Rooster, 2 Trinity Speed Gems (13T), and a bunch of solder and wire.

[hanafuda]

Some More.

[hanafuda]

Finally.

[Spoon37]

hehehe cool! thats should really fly with those motors.... :D

:cool:

[nitro_newbie]

is the wd a good beginer truck thakz in advanced

[Dagger Thrasher]

Hey peeps, some of you will know me from the board which must not be named. :D So I thought I'd register and drop by.

Is the Dagger a good beginner's truck?...I think so. It can stand up to abuse and it's go-anywhere ability even as stock is a lot of fun for beginners. It is simple to use as stock, and when you learn more you can upgrade and modify it a great deal. And being Tamiya it is fun to build, so I think it is a great option for beginners. What does eveyone else think? :)

[BPPSupermaxx]

Hey Dagger, its Performance RC.

Dagger pretty much summed it up.

[Dagger Thrasher]

Hi PRC, didn't know you came here. How is you and your friend's Dag project coming along?

[microrcdude]

Well, i chat with BPP a ton(via AIM), and its looking pretty good. If i can find the link he sent ill give it to ya

Heres the link: http://performancerc.net/wilddagger.htm

[dont slow down]

do you know where i can find tranny gears for my dagger? i havent been able to find any, i need the very first tranny gear, the one the pinion contacts, or if you have a spare you would be willing to sell me, my dagger has been out of commision for a few years because of this, so if anyone can help me out that would be awesome!!

[kurrz]

can someone please tell me the difference between the wild dagger and the twin detonator besides 20 bucks and which should i buy and how do i upgrade thanks

[kurrz]

i am really need to know because i want to place an order soon

[dont slow down]

i believe tamiya is just re-releasing the wild dagger under a new name and a different body, from the pic on tower hobbies, everything else looks the same to me other than the body. the dagger/detonator is a awesome truck, i ran mine pretty hard when it ran and it took the abuse pretty well, i left the stock motors in it and just mobbed it around my back yard, it was the most fun ive had with an rc in a long time, i wasnt worried about it breaking or anything like i am with my emaxx or monster gt, mainly because it wasnt fast enough to break anything, lol. but i have seen some AWESOME daggers around here so its not like you cant upgrade, however stock parts are a little harder to come by these days, at least for me, i have been looking for a tranny gear for quite some time. but nonetheless it is a great beginner truck and will have plenty of power and capability due to its dual motor 4wd setup. and the fact that without the body on you can hardly tell which is the front and which is the back makes it a very strong truck, you would have fun with it in my opinion, i definatly did.

[hanafuda]

If you want speed then go for what I did with the Super Rooster and 2 x Trinity motors. (Pictures and details in earlier posts). The Dagger is really fast with that set up. You have to be gentle with the acceleration though as there is so much power there.

Excellent fun though. Took it through loads of leaf covered park pavements the other day.

It took a lot of expense and effort to do the conversion, but it was worth it.

The other great thing I find about the Dagger is that it is much less maintenance than my Baha King.

[kurrz]

thanks guys ill probably get the twin detonator since its 20 bucks cheaper ill check out your mods and keep you posted thanks again

[kurrz]

already thinking about the esc upgrade just curious how you would hook up a single motor esc and if i used an 8T rev could i easily run between a 16 and 20 turn motors set up any suggestions on esc and motor combos appreciated thanks

[tree-unit]

already thinking about the esc upgrade just curious how you would hook up a single motor esc and if i used an 8T rev could i easily run between a 16 and 20 turn motors set up any suggestions on esc and motor combos appreciated thanks
as a temp method, strip out the front dog bones and diff cups, tape up [dust-proof] the the tranny, disconnect the motor and hey presto. 5mins to fun as rear wheel drive, or reverse the proceedure and make front wheel drive. :)
longer term method is to strip out a motor and gearbox to save weight.

Yeah, I've just spent oodles on hotting up motors (trinity 14t) and esc and now bashing with an e-maxx on 1-1 basis. The TD is much more graceful, and better road performance.
upgrade the steering servo saver, tamiya has a better one, and tamiya short shocks with spacers to make the "just" fit in.

[kurrz]

just wondering im a newbie and have bought rtrs thus far is the W.D./T.D. relatively easy to assemble and about how long will it take any painting tips thanks

[tree-unit]

the T.D. was my first truck experience:
Tamiya has ALWAYS put out excellent diagramatic instructions, one of the things that attracted me, and this is a piece of cake - just took me a 2 days (heh).
...and I picked up a lot from these guys here and about...
Choose 1 paint colour to as many as works with your capabitilies in the spray dept - really quick, and decalling can take care of the rest. 2 hours could do it (see box art)
I reckon this a good kit to start with as it grows with your experience!

[Phead128]

I didn't build my Wild Dagger, but my uncle gave it to me 3 years ago.... I had no experience with it. Just 4 months ago, I finally learned how to build it.

Its quite a 4wd monster truck, I even disassembled it like 8 times, its very fun, and has TONS of modification.s

Its a very good truck for and good kit for any level.

[kurrz]

thanks guys thinking i like the color it is that blue mettalic can the stock msc handle 19t motors at least til i get the cash for a super rooster thinking about getting some speed gems

[kurrz]

sorry i meant 17tx2 thanks

[Dagger Thrasher]

Unfortunately, no it can't. The MSC gets hot running the dual stock motors, running dual 17x2's it will either melt or catch fire. It just isn't mad enough for the job..also even if the MSC didn't blow up, the throttle control would be almost impossible with that kind of speed because of there only being three steps. Sorry about that, but to run those motors you really need to get an ESC first...

[microrcdude]

thanks guys thinking i like the color it is that blue mettalic can the stock msc handle 19t motors at least til i get the cash for a super rooster thinking about getting some speed gems
I would get the super rooster first.

[kurrz]

thanks for the advice rather be able to run than ruin it til i get all the right parts thanks again Dagger Thrasher and microrcdude

[hawkeye07]

Hey guys, as many of you may know, "Radio Control Dagger Web" is back in business and online, we now have an awesome new site and community forum. The site is centered around modifying your Wild Dagger, Twin Detonator, and your Tamiya favorites! Please check us out at http://www.rcdaggerweb.com .

[hawkeye07]

By the way, nice forum!!

[mrave]

Hi everybody,I am new to this world and I have some question for u...
I just bought a wild dagger for 299euro it is new but already assembled with charger and radio controller.
1_ I have 2000mAh Ni-MH batteries,is it normal that it last for less then 10 minutes??
2_ when the battery are almost gone and I turn of the car it continues to run backword for a while,untile the battery are exausted,is it normal?

what do you think,should I go back to the shop and ask for replace it?

PS:sorry for my english but I am italian

[Grumpy134]

Hey Pizano..No need to be ashamed of ur heritage.
First off, Are you using the stock motors?
Second, If your motors can take it...try a bigger cell battery.
Finally, This is just my oinion, but I wouldnt run the motors in reverse to wear the battery out. But then again. No matter what you do (forward or reverse) 1 motor will run in reverse. I think the safest way is to have a charger that can de-charge it before you re-charge it
This is just my veiw. Some people out here are more "verse" in the techy side of things.

[Daft Bat]

i want to put clod wheels on my detonator, what kind of stuff would i have to change and what is the best way of going about it, i read the posts on it that are here already, but got confused and the pics werent working, thanks for any help

[oggydog]

will titans out of an e-maxx fit in a wild dagger?

[Phead128]

Yes, Titans 550 sized motors will fit onto Wild Dagger, but you need to cut off the armature (the thing that sticks out of the motor that spins) a little to shorten it with a dremel tool, because its a little bit too long.

[huasze]

i have a wild dagger with clod wheels. problem is: the truck is now underpowered. anyone has suggestions on what motors to get. cheap ones please! i alredy plan on swapping the pinions down to 16T(they're currently 18T), i already have the adapters

[Dagger Thrasher]

What motors are you running? I'd suggest a high voltage setup, with Traxxas Titan motors and an EVX (or other hi voltage ESC) on 12-14 cells. That would give you tons of power, but you might need to upgrade your dogbones to OFNA Evo ones to take the strain.

[huasze]

hihi dagger thrasher. thanks for the input.
actually, i do have an extra evx lying around, but i really want to keep this dagger on 6 cells only. as for dogbones, what are ofna evo dogbones? i never heard of this model before!

[Dagger Thrasher]

No probs. If you don't want to go above 6 cells then Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems are incredibly torquey, although not that fast (just a tad quicker than the stockers). They are even better on 7 cells. You could also try running some lower turn mod motors, something in the 15T-20T range, but they still might lack the raw grunt you want with those huge tyres.
Those OFNA Evo bones, well they are called that, but they are used on the OFNA Pirate 10 and are a drect drop-in replacement for th stock bones. Here they are: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCAL5&P=7. You might just need to remove those tiny O-rings from the diff outdrives to get them to fit, but that wouldn't cause any problems.;-)

[huasze]

thanx for the help, daggerthrasher! i'll go order the stuff soon!

[BoonDocker]

www.rcdaggerweb.com


it literally has all the answers to all your guys' questions, plus everyone is super friendly!

[BoonDocker]

nice to see your helpin out the noobies DT!


USD here from daggerweb!

[u-m-o]

Hello,
I´m from Germany and I´m searcing for the silver front upper arms from Hot Racing (WD 5408) at Hobby etc. there are in Stock, but they want a credit card in copy I think I have no credit card, but I will pay befor sending, or I have a pay pal account. Can somebody buy the parts for me, or can somebody help me ?
(Sorry for my bad english)
Many greeting
Uwe

[Phead128]

There is currently a Blue front upper arms from GPM RAcing, not Hot Racing on eBay right now.

It does specifically say Blue, but I can guaranteed that if you ask the Seller on eBay if he has Silver instead of Blue, he would gladly change the color for you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/GPM-Alloy-Front-Camber-Set-Wild-Dagger-Twin-Detonator_W0QQitemZ5994351148QQcategoryZ44022QQssP ageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And also, GPM Racing's front upper arms (also known as Camber arms) are Much Much cheaper than Hot Racing's equivalent, and even better quality.

GPM (WD054) Alloy Front Camber Set-1pr

[diggernz]

DualHunter anyone? Ive just had one arrive today with a tein motor ESC. Ill run it stock for a while then get thed bearings and maybe sports tuned,
I have found that with a good 3800mah battery that these trucks and my Blackfoot Extreme are very good fun. I've never driven a twin motor truck before so am looking forward to it. Ive always wanted a Wild Dagger but not been able to afford one with a decent ESC. ANd wada ya know. My main man Jun here in NZ has one for a steal at $239. I couldnt believe my luck that it hadnt sold already. I could make money one this I reckon but why? When I can build it and then drive the crap otu of it. Sooo much more rewarding. Matter a fact I might just build it tonite. It wont take long as the gearboxes are already assembled for me and truck is fairly basic in construction, (not weak tho!). I just built my BF extreme a month ago ad this is near identical so Ill catch ya all later. Ill let you know how the build is going through the night.

[4wdmt]

Please post some feedback with that Tamiya Twin motor ESC. I've hear it will now be included in any of their twin motor trucks.

I wanna know if it has breaks and reverse (both). How reverse works (double pump, delay or speed sensing).

Thank you. Looking forward to your post.

Btw, aside from BBs. I recommend Tamiya CVAs.

[dont slow down]

Heys guys, I'm a poster from a while back. I have a Wild Dagger that has been sitting in my garage for about 7 years or so. The rear tranny has a stripped gear. I mounted the motor in the wrong spot for the pinion size that I had and poof, stripped. So after many tries at the LHS I finally found a set of new gears! Many other people I talked to said I could not get them anymore, but I dont really think they knew what they were talking about. Im really excited to revive this truck, it was a lot of fun to drive! Gears should be in tomorrow. I have a hard time remembering what it drives like, lol. Im looking forward to it, Ill post some pics later or something. Peace!

[4wdmt]

The dagger chassis is very much alive and kickin'. The newest spin off from this chassis is the Tamiya Dual Hunter...so the parts are still available. Only the lexan body is the one changed, plus they included a dual motor ESC this time. Nice step up. If only Tamiya can make ball bearings and oil shocks standard on their kits too. Anyways, if you wil have a hard time getting gears again, Tower has the whole set with shell casing:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGHK3&P=Z

Good luck. keep us posted.

[dont slow down]

Thats cool, thanks for the link. I know the Dagger has been around awhile, and its been re-released a few times, Twin Detonator etc. So I pulled my Dag out of its corner and cleaned it up, and I didnt remember doing it but I must have robbed my ESC out of it a while ago because it wasnt there, lol. So I guess Ill have to pick one up later which means it wont be alive again for a little longer. I had a LRP F1 reverse in there before but dont really know what to put in it this time. This is just going to be a play truck for me so that means the silver can motors are staying in and I dont want to run two packs. I know that most ESC's can handle dual motors if you wire them right but I cant remember. What should I put in it thats relatively cheap? I think I remember MSonik making a dual motor ESC for a reasonable price.

[4wdmt]

the Tamiya ESC is relatively cheap and already built / pre-wired for dual motors already. Granted it is only rated for dual sport tuned motors. But I think it will get the job done.

http://cgi.ebay.com/45037-TAMIYA-RC-TEU-103-BK-ESC-TWIN-MOTORS_W0QQitemZ350070973121QQihZ022QQcategoryZ191 67QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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Well, my gears came in today so I went to the LHS to pick them up. While I was there I was looking around at ESC's. They have been trying to get rid of a bunch of stuff lately and have tons of stuff marked down. Some stuff they still have is from when I worked there like 5 years ago, lol. So they had this JR speedo on sale for $40. 15 turn limit, 7 cell limit and reversable. So I figured why not? I plan on leaving the silver stock motors in, this is just a fun little bashing truck for me. So I just got done running it and man I forgot how much fun it was! For the stock motors it moved pretty well. The 4x4 is sweet, I was climbing this gravel pile and railroad ties with no problems. The tires that came on the truck were trashed, rotted and dry. So I found some proline mashers that were sitting around and I put those on. I had a little problem with the rims spinning in the tires. I dont want to glue them because the tires dont have much tread on them. But once I get new tires Ill glue them up. Which reminds me, I saw a set at the shop for 10 bux, so Ill prolly go get them. Anyway Im waiting for more packs to charge then Im gonna play some more. Its nice to be able to add the Dagger back to my fleet.

[4wdmt]

Someone suggested this before. Alternative to unglued tires is putting some rubber bands in the bead of the wheels. Might give it a try. They say it works pretty well.

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Oh yea, I have heard that before too, Ill do that. Its been a while and I have forgotten a lot of stuff, lol.

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So has anybody found CVD's that fit in this truck yet?

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So has anybody found CVD's that fit in this truck yet?

Hello......hello......hello.................echo.. ......echo...........echo................

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So has anybody found CVD's that fit in this truck yet?

Anyone?

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Well I found some cvds on eBay so that should stop the irritating problem of the dogbones popping out all the time. Anyone else still sporting the wild dagger?

[guver]

Mine mostly sets on the bench , I did rebuild/repair it to get ready to sell or run though. I've been using the large ofna dogbones with good luck.

(they work great on the bench too)lol.

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Thats cool, ya my dog bones NEVER EVER pop out on the workbench! Its great! lol. I kept the stock silver can motors in it to keep it pretty slow. I usually take it along when I go somewhere to run my brushless emaxx. Usually kids see it and go "Cool, can I drive it?" and I'm like, "Heh, no way, but you can drive this one..." They are still pretty stoked to drive the WD. Last time though the kid kept backing up with the wheels locked to one side, almost a instant pop out. So CVDs should make it more enjoyable.

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Just got the cvd's in the mail right now, cant wait to put them in and say good bye to those lame dogbones.

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Well I finally put in the cvd's and its so nice not having to worry about dogbones popping out. I only had time to run about 1/2 a pack though. I did notice that I have a lot of driveline drag. So tonight I tore it down and worked out the kinks. Re-adjusted the shocks so they dont bind the cvd's, JB welded the rear diff, and fixed the flex in the steering. Im going to take it out to the beach tomorrow and see how she does. I have always really enjoyed driving this truck and now that I put a little TLC into it, it should be lots of fun tomorrow. I try to get some pics.

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Well I have been giving my Wild Dagger quite a work out the past few months. I have gone to a few family and friend gatherings and have taken the Wild Dagger out along with the Emaxx and TXT-1. A few events have been with the church group and the kids there love the cars. My Emaxx is a bit too much for them to drive, most are ages 4-12. I let the kids drive the Wild Dagger into the ground but it just keeps on going. They drove it into curbs at full speed (stock 540 Johnson motors don't get it going fast enough to break anything), jumped it, chased some dogs, and had a blast with it. So tonight I gave her a face lift. I picked up some new tires at the LHS and a new battery pack. I also trimmed and fitted a body I had laying around and it looks much better than that old factory body. I might give her some new motors tommorrow but I haven't decided yet. Anyway here are some pics.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0598.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0599.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0600.jpg

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Put a little more work into my Wild Dagger today. Adapted some HPI Savage bumpers to the body just because they look awesome, gave it a new LRP speedo, some 17 turn motors, and lubed everything up. Here's some updated pics.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0638.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0639.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0640.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0641.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee105/swashbuckler1998/100_0642.jpg

[4wdmt]

Your dagger looks great. I have 2 dagger chassis also, but they are just plain stock.

How does it run with 2 - 17turns?

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Thanks! You know I was plenty happy with the stock motors in it but two 17's is just plain fun. The stock motors didn't move the truck fast enough to break it but the 17's do, gotta be careful.

[kevsilver]

I'm a proper novice - just bought a Wild Dagger off ebay, (already built) and as soon as I connect the battery it's off like a bat out of hell! i think I've followed the instructions correctly by first setting control to N, then switching control on, then plugging battery in. At this stage it just takes off like crazy, even with the car switched off! Anyone help please? (PS this might sound stupid, but what's the R setting on the control for?) Kev

[guver]

It sounds like the manual servo that controls the speed control is not centered. It should be in the middle of the speed control for neutral. You can check it visually with the radio system on and motors unplugged.

You can also plug the batteries in and manually work the speed control to neutral , that is where the servo should be when in neutral on the radio.

[kevsilver]

It sounds like the manual servo that controls the speed control is not centered. It should be in the middle of the speed control for neutral. You can check it visually with the radio system on and motors unplugged.

You can also plug the batteries in and manually work the speed control to neutral , that is where the servo should be when in neutral on the radio.

Right. Is the servo the thing with an arm on it that can be moved back and forth? Also, what's R position for on the controller? I know this probably sounds really stupid but it's all brand new to me. Thanks for your patience. Kev

[fonzi123]

hi new here
had the wild dagger for 3 years now not spent a penny on moding it
just used my brein it hurt any way
i dont no if any off u guys have tryed it but it works u can double up the car battrys on the standered manuel speed controler all id is up rate the thickness off the wie coming off the controler so the it does not burn out the restor
so u get a very quick truck that lasts about 20 to 30 mins as i get relly fed up off haveing short runtimes
anyway ill get some picks up off the truck in the next few days so u can have look

ps sorry for the spelling mistaks