OFNA MBX Buggies [Archive] - Radio Control Zone

2_much

06-19-2002, 12:53 PM

You have to watch out for the diffs binding. Some kits, but not all, have the wrong internal gears, so the diffs only last for a few tanks before they seize. I was one of the unlucky ones (as usual). If they bind, send a fax to OFNA and they will send you new ones for free, but I think all the faulty ones are out of circulation now. Apart from that, I'd say change the springs to something a little stiffer as soon as possible.
One more question for other R2 owners: Did your kit come with a front sway-bar? Mine didn't and it said it did on the box.

Vmax911

06-19-2002, 04:39 PM

No front sway bar here... I think those are reserved for the worlds II. I hear most people take them of anyway (at least for off-roading).

-=ADA$=-

06-19-2002, 04:49 PM

thaks alot for help and what would be good springs??

2_much

06-19-2002, 05:40 PM

ASA$, the answer you will find 3 or 4 post up.
Posted by Vmax it was.
*nods*

-=ADA$=-

06-19-2002, 06:04 PM

ok thanks see now,

-=ADA$=-

06-22-2002, 04:57 PM

are there any hop-ups for this buggy, i want to know if it will be possible to upgrade it with time ( and income), or maybe parts from other buggies fit? any input will be appreciated, thanks

Vmax911

06-22-2002, 08:49 PM

A lot of the hop ups for the worlds II will work. You can get Torsen Diffs and CNC parts from ace-hobbies. You can also use any 1/8 shocks and springs.

-=ADA$=-

06-23-2002, 03:44 AM

thanks, thats what i was looking for, cause i once bought a kyosho truck, its great but no hop-up's well almost, so thanks, and now im sure im getting mbx

-=ADA$=-

06-23-2002, 01:34 PM

well does ace ship to europ, they stock many parts for mbx, and also they have mbx for $180 not like tower $240 so i would rather buy from them, or maybe other store, that have similar price and ship to europe, thanks

Vmax911

06-23-2002, 08:27 PM

You should give them a call, I think their number is on their website. I've called a couple of times and they have been really helpful. You could e-mail them, but that takes a few days before they get back to you.

-=ADA$=-

06-24-2002, 01:06 AM

i have problem with finding their mail, ill try today, but if i wasnt succes, could you giv me their mail?? thanks alot

Vmax911

06-24-2002, 03:24 AM

Sure:

info@ace-hobbies.com

:)

-=ADA$=-

06-24-2002, 05:11 AM

thanks ill mail them right now .

2_much

06-24-2002, 11:08 PM

ADA$, good choice. You can't go wrong with this buggy.
Did anyone else have to send in for replacment diff gears, and how long did it take you? I'm still waiting after 2 and a half months!! :mad: :rolleyes:

-=ADA$=-

06-25-2002, 02:25 AM

well dont scare me:eek: , just kidding, there is post somewhere her, and its same problem, but he tells it has been repaird

eman88

06-29-2002, 12:19 PM

2_much
i would call them if i were you.

thanks for the size screws i will need so i dont have those huge engine bolts sticking out.
i was wondering on the size
i will look for
5x12mm flathead screws with concave washers
this will be for my gt lx which i will hopefully upgrade to a mbx r2 with this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1744446100) from ebay

coyote660

06-29-2002, 11:14 PM

eman...flathead "hex" for those engine screws...;) a little more stylish than flips.

eman88

06-30-2002, 01:31 PM

coyote-ok i will look for those

Allen T

07-04-2002, 03:56 AM

Guys,

I asked some Q's on the Ofna buggy on another thread (forum?), and got 1 answer.........

I'm thinking about getting an Ofna MBX RTR. I'm fairly new to R/C (I have an electric TC3), and want to go nitro/off road. Any info (good OR bad) is appreciated! Here'a a few questions I have:

Is the MBX RTR durable as a "backyard basher"? I'm not going to race....just goof around.

Is the radio "OK"? I've heard that it's a lot better to have EPA and all the extras, but like I said, I'm not racing.....

I've heard the engine (Force P4) is pretty difficult during break in. Is that true?

Thanks in advance!!!
Allen

coyote660

07-04-2002, 10:33 AM

hey allen....from what you've posted i'd say the Ofna MBX-rtr would be perfect for you...it's a strong car to learn on and you'll love it. the only thing to immediately upgrade is the steering servo...don't worry about break-in..just follow the directions and during your heat cycling drive figure 8's to start breaking in your diffs...don't sweat the small stuff..the radio will be fine...keep it simple at first you"ll have plenty of time to change things as you go....happy 4th and btw thank you for your service to our country!

-=ADA$=-

07-04-2002, 03:44 PM

i would liket to ask for your help, cause ive e-mailed ace, and they didnt respond, so i would likt to ask you to call them and ask if they ship to europe, cause phone from Poland to USA is something about $3 for minute, and its much too much for me, so pleas if it isnt too big problem, also would some parts from H7P, or Ultra 9,5 Pro, or normal fit, or replace parts in MBX R2?? thank you very much in advance for help., PS today i ordered MX-3 from Airtronics, MRC super brain and new head for my GS-15R, and now waiting, maybe month to get cash for MBX :D:D:D:D :D:D:D

Allen T

07-05-2002, 05:00 AM

Coyote,

Thanks for the reply. I've been in the Army almost 18 years....2 more years to retirement. (then I can get a REAL job :-)

The MBX sounds like a good deal. Especially when you have to save up money to buy R/C stuff! I take care of my stuff, and don't abuse it. (not on purpose, anyway!)

Thanks again!

Allen

PhillyNitro

07-07-2002, 03:28 PM

Hello New here but not to the hobby I got my MBX R2 about 3 months ago but I did have a slight break problem but think I have that fixed now :) I did some crazy stunts and jumps with this thing very strong buggy... I need pics for you all
:D

Jethro

07-08-2002, 03:45 PM

Okay just a couple of questions. I have both maxx trucks, stampede, 4-tec, Do yall think the mbx is good for off road. Is a good race truck. And is the p4 a good motor, like easy running. I have had a lot of trouble with nitro lately. So is the mbx better faster and stronger than the t-maxx. And i might just get a kyosho ultima st gt type r. Thanks

-=ADA$=-

07-12-2002, 05:28 AM

iv found in july number from 2001 of rcnitro some good spec's about mbx r2, so is it like this that it has same pivot and front hubs as mugen mbx?? and doest it disturb when you drive that there is no kick-up?? could it use other chassis?? with kick up, and also which is better, hing-pin suspension or pivot ball, and also what would be parts to order that are mostly fragile, and easiest to breake/bend?? thanks, i think ill order it in next month( now i have some debt)

eman88

07-16-2002, 10:52 AM

i think the p4 is a pretty good motor. it is pretty reliable. I sealed mine up at the high speed needle, the carb and the backplate. now i think my fuel tank is leaking and causing my temps to skyrocket. my high speed needle is at 3.5 and low speed 1.2 out from flush. it has horrible performance and still hits 270 after 1/4 tank.
oh well
i guess most people just run their p4 at 320 or so.

ada- i think the mugen has different pivot balls and hubs then the mbx r2.
it doesnt bother me that my buggy doesnt have front kick up. i know pivot ball has better adjustability.
check out this post for pros and cons of pivot ball and hinge pin suspension
http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm81.showMessage?topicID=876.topi c
i think the wing breaks easily on the mbx series

-=ADA$=-

07-17-2002, 02:51 AM

so should i get some wing stays, wings and maybe some a-arms, or something that taks a lot of stres, gears maybe or something?? are there available some upgradede CVD's??, and diff's??

Allen T

07-24-2002, 12:34 PM

Guys,

The break-in section of the instructions that come with the Ultra MBX RTR are kinda vague, to say the least.....

One page says to sit the car on a block, and "when started, let the engine fast idle for two tanks of fuel"

The other instructions (specifically for the Force 21 engine) say to "break in the engine in the car, by running the engine at a rich setting. Run the car from slow to fast speed with short bursts of speed", etc, etc.....(leaning it out after the first tankful, etc)

I've read all the break-in methods in the R/C mags, and would like to know where to start.....suggestions??

Thanks!

Allen

Jethro

07-24-2002, 03:55 PM

hey man. First you need to let it idle for about 2 to 3 tanks. Then when its done take it to a parking lot and drive it in a circle slowly for about another 2 to 3 tanks but when you are driving it bring it in and richen it or lean it out until it wont bog and takes off fast and gets up to speed fast. Just in case set the high speed needle like this . Turn it clockwise until it wont turn but not to much then back it out counterclockwise 2 to 2 1/2 turns. Hope this helps:D
if inbody thinks im wrong correct me.

Allen T

07-24-2002, 04:34 PM

Jethro,

Thanks for the reply.

Allen

Vmax911

07-24-2002, 04:38 PM

Jethro is right on the money. Only thing I would add is to let the engine cool down between tanks. Heat cycling is part of the break in process.

-=ADA$=-

07-26-2002, 10:08 AM

no way dont idle it, it will cause pre mature wear, you should run it fairly rich for first tank, and see if acceleration is quick, and engine doesnt bog when you apply throttle, than you should lean it tank by tank, just a little for about five tanks, and run the car, best on tarmac, its written on OS page in FAQ section,

coyote660

07-26-2002, 07:21 PM

nice use of commas,

nitromikey

07-29-2002, 11:11 AM

hey i was wondering if you guys could give me some help. i want to buy a ofna buggy but i don't know which one. what does the mbx have over the GT LX and which one is worth the money. i do a lot of backyard bashing and i might start racing at dirt tracks next year. thanks

-=ADA$=-

07-29-2002, 05:23 PM

i think that mbx have pivot ball suspension on all four ends, and gt has hinge pin

nitromikey

07-29-2002, 09:43 PM

how about the chasis? are there any additional goodies that the mbx has and also servos, overall performance and anything else you can think of. anything would really help my decision. thanks

-=ADA$=-

08-05-2002, 07:46 AM

ok now its really serious, im going to buy mbx r2 (without engine or radio) and i need intput, will it survive, and wont i have to buy parts every month, i wont be racing ( for now) and it will be basher car only, now i have only money for buggy, and then ill get probably .21 rg, or similar engine (under $200) so should i buy it or wait, and get something more expensive, thanks, ( i think that ill race it someday, but itll be some time ill practice before)
thanks very much, also if you would say for me to get it, what should i also buy, does it come with exhoust, or what body should i get, anything that could help me, thnk you very much, you always helped me alot, and i know that i can trust you this time

Ashler282

08-16-2002, 01:13 AM

Im starting to run my mbx r2 a lot in a parking lot and I was wondering if it can be a good onroad car or a rally car, and im also wanted to know are most ofna cars can except the same bodys.

BrianSW6

08-18-2002, 08:40 PM

I'm new to this site. I've got an Ofna MBX R2 w/ a Picco sport, this car hauls *****! I haven't done much to it besides upgrading my steering servo, fuel filter and rims and tires. I started a cool conversion with it, the new Dominator body posts are out and bolt onto the shock towers. I did that got a truck body and took off the stone guards. Now all i need are some new Dom. rims and tires. I adjusted my ride heigth and put ofna red springs on it. Today was tthe first time i took it out and it handeled great! I took some pics of it today so when get them developed i'll post them.

gman123

08-20-2002, 01:07 AM

i've had my MBX for two months now and i love it.

gaus

09-05-2002, 09:45 AM

I have an OFNA mbx with a .21 engine. I broke it in and have been tuning it. I live at 8,000 ft. I am running 25% nitro fuel. It runs very rich and kinda lags, the leaner I get it the hotter it gets. I have the bottom scew flush with the brass fitting. It is idling at about 210F. The idle is as slow as I can get it and sounds slow and medium rich. If I run it for about 30 seconds the temp goes up to 250 and above, it's been no higher than 270, only because I shut it off then. How can I get this engine to run longer without making it a lagging dog or overheating (running very hot)? How much torque are these engines supposed to generate, ie: mine lags going uphill any length of time?

gaus

-=ADA$=-

09-05-2002, 09:56 AM

i think maybe cutting more holes in body, or adding some oil to fuel

windellmc

09-05-2002, 11:27 AM

The Ofna P4 and Hyper .21 both need to run hot if you want to get any performance out of them. You might also try an RB 086 pipe. That may help get some more performance without raising the heat. Some have told me the real problem is the stock Ofna pipe and not the engine.

Ashler282

09-05-2002, 04:26 PM

Does any one had a hard time glue your tires on the MBX, seems the glue that came with kit dried way to fast so there is no room for error.

coyote660

09-05-2002, 07:05 PM

hey ash...practice and patience my friend...go to www.prolineracing.com and hit tips... that may help.

gaus

09-05-2002, 11:48 PM

Ashler282

09-06-2002, 12:34 AM

Im just about ready to run my MBX R2 for the first time, I got the basic info I need to get started but there is one area I want to get familliar with. I notice on most of the 1/10 scale nitro on road cars have a primer button, and on my MBX R2 dont have one, how can i go around and address this.

Vmax911

09-06-2002, 01:02 AM

Just cover the exhaust tip and give the pull start a few tugs. This creates pressure inside the exhaust which forces fuel into the carbuerator.

-=ADA$=-

09-06-2002, 01:41 AM

yea i had hard time glueing tires also, i was used to MT tires that fit into wide groove, and now my tires on mbx are so badly glued that i think im gonna get pre glued set

Ashler282

09-06-2002, 01:48 AM

Hey ADA$ one way you can save your tires and re-use them is to soak them in acetone over night, it will loosen the glue and you will be able to re-glue them over again.

-=ADA$=-

09-06-2002, 05:20 AM

and will the rims, and foams be ok?? ill try it when ill get some acetone

Ashler282

09-06-2002, 04:26 PM

the rims foam and weels will be fine, I used accetone on my other tires and im planning to use it on my MBX

oohnoo

09-10-2002, 04:31 PM

HiHo Everyone.

oohnoo

09-10-2002, 04:45 PM

HiHo Everyone.
Glad to see a site for the MBX. I have actually 2 of them. One is the MBX and the other is a MBX R2 with the ball joint rear. The MBX is all stock with the execption of upgraded servo's and pipe. The R2 is still in the building stage but will have the new Hyper 21 8-Port motor. I am also converting the R2 to the Ofna GTP onroad car. Simple upgrade that Ofna sells. The kit consists of the GTP car of your choice, upgraded shock tower, front bumper and 2 sets of onraod wheels! This way I can run the car onroad and off in the way they were meant to run.
The only week area I see is in the steering. I have upgrade to the aluminum servo posts and must say this tightened up the front alot. Also it seems the front shock mount which holds the upper arm is a weak link, the pin is sloppy in this hole which causes play in the steering. I'm in the process of making my own out of aluminum to tighten up this area.

Does anyone have the manual for the MBX R2?? If possible to scan it and mail or email it to me.
Also looking for the manual for the GTP.
Any help would be appreciated. I will be willing to pay for the shipping if need be.
Thanks

Crashbot2001

09-13-2002, 11:49 AM

Hey guys. Do they make a clutch nut or clutch nut adapter that will allow me to mount the OFNA MBX R2 clutch on an engine with the loger smooth shaft and threads up by the engine case( I think this is called a Pilot Shaft, but I dunno).

I know I could cut the shaft, but would rather not if there is a reasonably priced nut or adapter. Thanks!

Mike

gaus

09-15-2002, 02:45 AM

Hello-

I own an OFNA MBX ULTRA. I took the steering servo and receiver out to use in another car and would like to know what servos/receiver & or radio people are using to replace these stock parts and to what level of satisfaction.

Also, are there (m)any body options that fit this car besides the 'crowd pleaser'? What are some of your favorite hop-up items/modifications? Does the .21 Ultra Force really like to run above 250F? How about wheel options, I don't see many wheels listed as 17mm, what other specification is used to denote wheels/tires that will fit this car.

It is my first gas car and I think it is great, though I recognize that it is not a high performance vehicle. How well does the 2-speed transmission work, is it worth it and will this car ever be able to go in reverse and how does that work exactly.

What is the purpose of having a differential if you are going to use diff-lock? What weight diff-lock do people like and why?

It seems that the only times I have problems starting it are when there are air bubbles in the fuel line. I use my finger on the exhaust to bring fuel into the carb and then to my dissatisfaction I watch it go in reverse back into the tank most of the time, leaving me with partial 'almost got it that time' starts. (?)

I know these are a lot of questions with many variables but I thought it might help to stir up some more conversation. Any help is much appreciated.

gaus

-=ADA$=-

09-15-2002, 03:46 AM

there isnt any specification about what radio to use, just one to use high torq steering servo like 70+oz, and it will be great, i think all bodies that fit Mugen MBX will be good, and crawd pleazer also, you cant say about any engine that like to run hot, with one conditions it will run hot with other it wont, its good to keep it under 270, about wheels check THIS (http://www.ace-hobbies.com) and there are lots of wheels and tires combos, most of tehm uses 17mm hub,well it is high performance, comparing to new buggies its rather weak but competitive, and 2 speed there is cam version and shoe version, and it maeks it go extremely fast, but i dont thing you could use that extra speed on most tracks, so single speed is enaugh, and there isnt poossibilitie to go revers, its just impossible, ( well you could run your engine backwords :)) check the fuel tank for air leaks, and exchange all fuel lines, also seal the carb with silicon and maybe backplate too, hope i helped all your problems

gaus

09-15-2002, 12:07 PM

Thanks a lot. Any more suggestions? Come on people, I know some of you could speak volumes on these topics...

gaus

ps. how does the t-maxx manage to have a 'reverse gear'. I noticed a lot of people disable it(?)

-=ADA$=-

09-15-2002, 12:23 PM

there is gear case and set of gears that changes direction of rotation, but its aditional weight, and it isnt used in buggies, where most needed is handling and power to weight ratio

Crashbot2001

09-24-2002, 03:39 PM

Hey guys, I plan to make my MBX R2 a real racer. unfortunatley I don;t have much cash. What I need is for each of you to send me 50 Bucks. For that 50 bucks you will get an adoption paper for whatever component I upgrade and/or add with your money. Along with your paper of adoption you will recieve a photo of your adopted part. You will also recieve updates as to how your part or parts are doing and what they have accomplished. Please e-mail me at crashbot2001@aol.com for further details...

LOL~!

-=ADA$=-

09-25-2002, 02:03 PM

We should heave a thread called 1001 methods of getting money

Crashbot2001

09-25-2002, 02:28 PM

Lol, I don;t need 1001 ways.. I just ned one good one that doesn't involve work!

oohnoo

09-25-2002, 02:31 PM

Ya you and 1001 other people.

-=ADA$=-

09-26-2002, 01:40 PM

When youll find one tell me about it, i know an example we can heat rooms with heat of our bodies, any other suggestions ?? ( I just love this People and this place :):))

Crashbot2001

09-26-2002, 02:06 PM

We can heat the room faster if we fire up the buggies and do laps around the couch!! Don;t know if anyone would pay us to do it for them.

Got Speed

09-28-2002, 02:46 PM

How do you all like your MBXs? I am hopefully getting a 1/8th scale buggy soon and am looking for a fairly inexpensive yet
strong basher. I was looking at ebay for a new one and saw
MBX R2s going for about $150. Is this a good deal? What is the difference between the differen MBXs? Are they as strong as the Hyper 7 and 9.5? Id like one of those two but they cost alot of money so really I need something that will hold up to alot of bashing. Also what kind of steering servos are you guys running?

Thanks alot for the help!:)

-=ADA$=-

09-28-2002, 05:32 PM

i havent run mine, but it seems to be great strong basher/racer, chassis braces are thru full lenght of the chassis, which should eliminate all flex, though i cant tell you how does it compare to other buggies, cause i havent seen any in real life, but i can assure you its much stronger than kyosho dodge ram :rolleyes:

Got Speed

09-28-2002, 06:00 PM

LOL I think everything is stronger than a Kyosho Dodge Ram. :D :p I was kind of concerned though when someone told me they have really weak drivetrains. Is that true?

-=ADA$=-

09-29-2002, 04:10 AM

the stock motor is rather weak and it broke pins on dogbone so do i have to say more, but its hella fun, (fun-truck)

Got Speed

09-29-2002, 11:02 AM

Any other problems with the drivetrain? Which MBX are you running? Does anyone know what the differences are between the Ultra MBX RTR, Ultra GT LX RTR, MBX R2 plus RTR, and the MBX R2?

Got Speed

09-29-2002, 11:03 AM

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
Hey guys, I plan to make my MBX R2 a real racer. unfortunatley I don;t have much cash. What I need is for each of you to send me 50 Bucks. For that 50 bucks you will get an adoption paper for whatever component I upgrade and/or add with your money. Along with your paper of adoption you will recieve a photo of your adopted part. You will also recieve updates as to how your part or parts are doing and what they have accomplished. Please e-mail me at crashbot2001@aol.com for further details...

LOL~!

Where can you get upgrades for it? Who makes them?

Vmax911

09-29-2002, 01:53 PM

GT LX has a "knuckle" Style front suspension and a normal H-arm/ upperlink type rear suspension.

MBX has front Pivot ball suspension.

MBX R2 has front and rear Pivot ball suspension.

All three of these have a flat chassis.

MBX R2 plus is actually the old Worlds II car. It adds chassis kick up, hard anodized shock, front and rear tension rods, quad brakes and has both C-hub and pivot ball suspension (at least the Worlds II did)

I beleive the GT comes with a P4, MBX with a Hyper, and the R2 plus with a Picco.

-=ADA$=-

09-29-2002, 02:30 PM

Got Speed, im sorry i said wrong, its ram that has broke dog bone, i havnt run MBX, and i have MBX R2

Got Speed

09-29-2002, 03:38 PM

Isn't there a worlds II conversion? Do you have them in order of good to best? Isn't pivot ball suspension better than hingepin type suspension for buggys?

-=ADA$=-- oh ok I thought you meant the MBX R2. lol. The kyosho dodge ram your talking about is the same one that was in RCCA awhile back isn't it?

-=ADA$=-

09-29-2002, 03:50 PM

was it??????? could anyone scan this for me, in some good resolution??, and i think that it depends some likes ing pin, some dont

Vmax911

09-29-2002, 10:15 PM

There used to be a conversion kit for the World 1 to a Worlds 2. But nothing that takes a flat chassis car to a worlds 2.

The cars I listed are in order from oldest to newest. Everyone has an opinion of which is better (pivot ball or c-hub). I've ran both, and both work well. Pivot ball is a little more difficult to setup, but it's also much easier to adjust.

Got Speed

09-29-2002, 10:43 PM

Is there a MBX R2 plus that dosn't have an engine or radio?

Which do you prefer pivot ball or c hub? Ive heard alot of people say they like the pivot ball best.

-=ADA$=-

09-30-2002, 01:10 PM

i have MBX R2 but not plus but it is without engine and radio i got it when it was $180 @ , you could probably get the plus chassis, and c hub is claimed to be more durable, and pivo ball more adjustable, you can adjust track width, camber and some more with it dunno about c-hubAce-hobbies (http://www.Ace-hobbies.com)

Got Speed

09-30-2002, 03:38 PM

So the only difference between the chassis is that the plus has kick up and the MBX R2 dosn't? So you could buy the plus chassis and swap them out without modification?

Vmax911

09-30-2002, 08:20 PM

No the kick up is not the only difference. The Worlds II chassis is hard anodized, as well as the shocks. Also, the center diff location is slightly different, so the braces from the R2 wouldn't fit. The worlds II has torque rods (support goes from the bulkheads to the chassis, much stiffer) rather than the 'topical' braces the other Ofna cars have.

I don't believe you can get the R2 plus without the engine and radio. The R2 plus was just a re-release of the worlds II under a different name. In fact, if I remember right they only made 500 of them.

If you are lucky enough to find a worlds I chassis, it would be a direct replacement for the other flat cars (the worlds I has kickup). Unfortunately the worlds I has been out of production for quite some time. I actually got one off of E-bay a while ago, but I haven't seen on since.

I even made a brace that runs along the length of the car, and makes it quite a bit stiffer. You can check out some pics here. (http://www.crazrc.com/albums.cgi?op=showalbum&paid=27)

gaus

09-30-2002, 11:18 PM

Running the (stock) MBX Ultra here.

I had some probs. with my engine overheating, I attributed it to high alititude and a poor fuel/air mix but I recently enlarged the hole I made in the body for the head(er) and changed fuel to Duratrax Red Alert 20%. I was able to lean the car out and it runs really well now. I am impressed how it handles hills and rocks as I am running it mostly on the slope of a nearby ski area (no snow yet.)
I also upgraded the steering servo to a new Airtronics 94738 Contest Car BB Servo. Pretty pricey upgrade at over $70 but well worth it as my handling has markedly improved. This car also seems to run pretty well on the asphalt, it impresses me over and over. That little .21 Hyper engine provides more than enough speed for me. My only problem is that my friends want to drive it and bash the cr@p out of it.

gaus

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 01:07 AM

Originally posted by Vmax911
No the kick up is not the only difference. The Worlds II chassis is hard anodized, as well as the shocks. Also, the center diff location is slightly different, so the braces from the R2 wouldn't fit. The worlds II has torque rods (support goes from the bulkheads to the chassis, much stiffer) rather than the 'topical' braces the other Ofna cars have.

I don't believe you can get the R2 plus without the engine and radio. The R2 plus was just a re-release of the worlds II under a different name. In fact, if I remember right they only made 500 of them.

If you are lucky enough to find a worlds I chassis, it would be a direct replacement for the other flat cars (the worlds I has kickup). Unfortunately the worlds I has been out of production for quite some time. I actually got one off of E-bay a while ago, but I haven't seen on since.

I even made a brace that runs along the length of the car, and makes it quite a bit stiffer. You can check out some pics here. (http://www.crazrc.com/albums.cgi?op=showalbum&paid=27)

Well I think I am pretty much set on the MBX R2 then. Since I am only bashing I don't think it's that important allthough I would like those features since it makes it tougher and perform a little better. I'll keep my eye out for a worlds 1 chassis too and I will make a few upgrades here and there. I might try making my own braces like you did too. I should have the money in about a month to get it.:)

Crashbot2001

10-01-2002, 09:27 AM

I've been thinking of trying to add kick-up to the MBX R2 Chassis. Either with an aluminum bumper, mounted on the bottom of the existing chassis using the screws that hold the diff housing, or by actually bending the chassis and making a custom brace between the top of the front diff case and the steering posts...

It needs kick-up, no doubt. Even on flat landings, it tends to plow... Only other option is to add limiters on the exterior shock shafts to prevent the front end from contacting the dirt..

cmracing

10-01-2002, 10:11 AM

If you get the MBX R2 as the 80% kit, you should be able to find it for less than $200. Then get a good steering servo, between $50 and $100 (I got mine off of Ebay for $45 a shot, name brand, not junk!), get the Hyper .21 (it has been excellent for me) or the XTM .247 (I have a brand-new one, but I haven't finished building the MBX I am putting it into yet), get a JR radio, and you are set. From what I understand, the Ofna Monster Pirate is based on this chassis design, so if you add big wheels and taller body posts you can make a quasi monster-truck. Throw some low-profile tires and wheels on it and go on-road racing with it too. They are very versatile buggies.

-=ADA$=-

10-01-2002, 11:17 AM

i think monster blazer is set on ultra chassis, not MP

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 11:30 AM

Originally posted by cmracing
If you get the MBX R2 as the 80% kit, you should be able to find it for less than $200. Then get a good steering servo, between $50 and $100 (I got mine off of Ebay for $45 a shot, name brand, not junk!), get the Hyper .21 (it has been excellent for me) or the XTM .247 (I have a brand-new one, but I haven't finished building the MBX I am putting it into yet), get a JR radio, and you are set. From what I understand, the Ofna Monster Pirate is based on this chassis design, so if you add big wheels and taller body posts you can make a quasi monster-truck. Throw some low-profile tires and wheels on it and go on-road racing with it too. They are very versatile buggies.

Lol, Ive already got exactly that. JR XR-3 radio, high torque servos, and Hyper .21. lol

For anyone on the GT or XXXN-T board you might have seen dissymmetry. I asked him if he could make a chassis like the worlds 1 chassis. Ill lyk what he says.:)

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 11:31 AM

Oh, this extra flex in the chassis from not having torque rods isn't enough to make it strip spur gears with a proper mesh is it?:confused:

-=ADA$=-

10-01-2002, 11:48 AM

i believe that braces will give enaugh of strenght not to strip gears,

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 12:29 PM

The braces that come with it? If so good, because I got a custom made maxx chassis from someone and it has so much flex I couldn't getmore than 3 runs before it would strip a spur gear.

Crashbot2001

10-01-2002, 12:52 PM

Got Speed, Lemme know what he comes up with. I've benn contemplating bending the chassis myself and making a new brace between the front diff case and steering posts OR Making some tyupe of bmuper to mount under the chassis utilizing the screws that hold the front diff case to the chassis.

On the flex thing.. The gears are lined up sideways, nt front to back like on most 1/10 scale trucks, so the front to back flex does not affect the gear mesh as much as it does on the 1/10 scales.

1/8 buggy layout

Front
..D
==
E
Rear D=diff, E-Engine, = is CB and diff Gear(spur if you will)

1/10 truck

Front
E]
..[
Rear E=Engine [ and [ represent Clutch bell and spur gear

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 01:27 PM

Ok, I gave him a link to this thread so he might post here.

I race my XXXN-T ADE and never get trouble with flex from it. It was just my T-Maxxs custom chassis. Even though the engine is mounted facing the front it would strip the spur if I went anywhere but the road.

The MBX R2 does come with a header and pipe right?

Crashbot2001

10-01-2002, 02:31 PM

Originally posted by Got Speed
Ok, I gave him a link to this thread so he might post here.

I race my XXXN-T ADE and never get trouble with flex from it. It was just my T-Maxxs custom chassis. Even though the engine is mounted facing the front it would strip the spur if I went anywhere but the road.

The MBX R2 does come with a header and pipe right?

Yes it comes with a header, pipe, header spring, flywheel, clutch shoes and springs, clutch bell, air filter, etc.. You just need radio gear, batts, and an engine

dissymmetry

10-01-2002, 02:53 PM

Howzit?

I'm sure I'd be able to make an alum chassis for this. The bends will make it cost more, but not much. Alternately we could hog it out of solid stock. That would make it much stronger and less likely to warp, but would also make it slightly more expensive.

I don't have a chassis to work off of though if anyone has one they could spare for a while, you might get a free one out of it once the design is completed. As far as the cost, I wouldn't really be able to tell until after the first one is made. It all depends on how long it takes and how difficult it is to make.

Worlds I chassis, huh? Is it the same as the Ultra Worlds GT1 or is that something else?

How does this buggy compare with the GS Storm? I haven't seen an MBX yet, but the Storm rocks. I was thinking of making it my next car. Any unbiased opinions?

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 03:15 PM

AHH tripple post. Lol sorry:eek: :rolleyes: :eek: :cool:

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 03:15 PM

Crashbot- Great, I was hoping I wouldn't need a pipe. It's not a very good pipe though is it? I may try a CVEC eventually.

Personally I think the GS storm is probably a little better but you can't beat the price of an MBX R2.

Could you give an estimate on how much one of the chassis might cost? like $50 or $150? Thanks for responding so soon.

Got Speed

10-01-2002, 03:16 PM

sorry double post :eek:

-=ADA$=-

10-01-2002, 03:20 PM

i think it isnt hard, the only hard part would be kick up

cmracing

10-01-2002, 03:51 PM

I have a spare chassis if you need one to use for designing a new chassis. Send me an email.

Crashbot2001

10-02-2002, 08:31 AM

Got spreed, no, it's prbably not the best pipe, but it'll get you by just fine until you get a better one.

On the kick-up thing, I decided to bite the bullet last night!

I removed the six screws on the bottom of the chassis that hold the front diff on. I also removed the two screws that hold the steering rods to the steering posts. Then I removed the brace running from the diff to the steering posts. This detached the entire front drive and suspension assembly.

I examined the chassis closely and was able to see where the rear of the front diff case rests on the chassis. I used a sharpie to draw a line across the chassis about 1/16 inch behind that point.

I then took the buggy to the vise. I placed the front of the chassis in the vise, lined up the line with the top of the vise and clamped it down. The point of no return... I gave a push on the chassis just above the vise.. It bent slightly, right along the line...

Cont

Crashbot2001

10-02-2002, 08:39 AM

Pulled the buggy out of the vise and re-assembled it. The last piece to go on was the brace between the front diff and the steerig posts. I had planned to drill new hole on it somewhere as I knew it would now too long, however, to my pleasant surprise I noticed tha on the end that attaches to the steering posts, there are already a second set of holes, and they were lining up just about perfect once the other end of the brace was attached to the front diff. It just took a slight bit of Force to tweak them in line and viola! Awesome..

Everything back together, I checked it out. A problem! The length of the front center dog bone is now Just a HAIR too long and it is causing it to bind When I hold one front wheel and spin the other with my hand. Pulled the dog bone out and used a dremel to extend the slots in the drive cups at the rear of the front diff and the front of the center diff.. Re-assemble.. Much better, but still just a hint of binding. The ball at each end of the bone was in contact with the diff gear output shaft(inside the drive cups) at a certain point in it's rotation. Remove the dogbone again and used a dremel sanding wheel to remove some of the ball beyond the pins on the dogbone at each end. Re-assembled again.. No sign of any binding. And with the suspension fully compressed with the chassis bottoming out on my desk, the front of the chassis now sits about 3/8 inch off the desk! No more shovelling!! woohoo!!!

Crashbot2001

10-02-2002, 08:49 AM

Dissymetry, the Storm is a slightly better buggy in my opinion. just slightly. Kick-up is the main reason. Some would argue the pillowball front suspension is not race-worthyon the Ofna MBX, but I disagree. The Mugen uses it and it's definately race worthy. The gas tanks on the Storm are defective and leak from the get-go, which is why they are backordered everywhere(the tanks). I understand the mugen tanks fits it, but the mugen tank is 25 bucks. I let my buddy borrow my OFNA MBX tank as I'm waiting on a piston and sleeve, and he is going to see if the Ofna MBX tanks could be made to fit the Storm.

Also, when you design a new chassis for the OFNA MBX, please note the problem I ran into when I bent my chasssis. You will need to lengthen the chassis about 1/2 inch(depending on the amount of Kick-up you add) to avoid causing the front center dog bone to bind. Also, if you add more kick-up than I did(and I think you should) the front brace will no longer work, and a new one should be included with the chassis. As you add more kick-up, it moves the top of the front diff closer to the steering posts, casuing the brace to be too long(and the dog-bone), but as you lengthen the chassis, it does the opposite. I think there is a perfect spot somewhere that the kick-up and chassis lengthening will balance out so that the stock dogbone and top brace will still be able to be used without modifying them. Just need to lengthen the overall chassis enough to compensate for the effects of the kick-up.

CONT

Crashbot2001

10-02-2002, 09:03 AM

Also, If you can read DXF or Cad files, let me know.. I have a few ideas on the kick-up, but can't help with getting the correct length to offset the effects of the kick-up.

There is another way to add kick-up cheaply, and I touched on it yesterday. Manufacture a front "bumper" Or "chassis extension" if you will. it would mount on the bottom of the chassis, using the existing screws that hold the font diff housing on. It should kick up right at the front end of the existing chassis. I can send you a dxf or cad file on this one

If you want an awesome buggy for Mid-to high level racing, the Hyper 7 pro is the way to go. I have an associate that says (and I beleive him) he was pitted next to Kanai himself one day at a major event, back when the Hyper 7 Pro was new and someone was running one on the track. Kanai(through his translator) told him it was a better buggy than his(at the time the Kanai 1).

Crashbot2001

10-02-2002, 10:56 AM

Some pics to better explain my thoughts...

Bumper Method(not as good by far, but cheaper)

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p87f5d4b5ac3a725b24ae759c2eac19f5/fd35e59a.jpg

New Chassis method

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p8411fb5fd45889e825d9a94a19c7d781/fd35e598.jpg

Sorry, hard to read the text. I'll e-mail them in Cad, DXF, or Jpg format if you want them, just gimme your e-mail.

Or look HERE (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p87f5d4b5ac3a725b24ae759c2eac19f5/fd35e59a.jpg.orig.jpg) For the Bumper and HERE (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p8411fb5fd45889e825d9a94a19c7d781/fd35e598.jpg.orig.jpg) for the chassis

cmracing

10-02-2002, 11:30 AM

I will be sending a spare chassis to Dissymetry early next week. Let's see what he can make for us.

-=ADA$=-

10-02-2002, 02:17 PM

Crash i would think its risky to do it, but you did it, good job, and i think that adding kick-up would be good

Crashbot2001

10-02-2002, 02:39 PM

Hey, in case everyone didn't know. They sent out some buggies with no shims in the diff gears and the diff gears have been failing because of it. You can get replacement diff gears(3 sets) for free from OFNA if this happened to you. The info is on their web-page

http://www.ofna.com/recall.html

dissymmetry

10-02-2002, 10:46 PM

Crash ... send me the files in DXF or IGES (1.0) make sure they are drawn in "Front" view also as the CAM software I use doesn't have a 3D rotate option. I'm thinking solid stock hog-out for this to keep from having to send the bending and welding of the chassis outside processing. I wouldn't trust any of my guys to do welding for government work like this.

Thanks for all the help. If anyone is in the So. Cal area, wants one of these chassis for themselves and can spare their vehicle for test fitting, please let me know! I won't be confident in the design unless I can measure all the compnents you are talking about that are binding so I can get the correct alignment.

Also, how is this change going to effect the shock tower alignment and the suspension geometry? By the picture you've drawn it looks like the shock towers are going to be raised and pitched at the same angle as the diff. is this going to be a problem?

btw, what angle did you end up putting on your kick-up and how much would you want for the new chassis?

Send email to shawnf@aero-rc.com

-=ADA$=-

10-03-2002, 08:49 AM

Well it sure looks great, nad its great idea, but i have one question, what about handling, it will change due to bigger caster angle, how would this affect handling??

Crashbot2001

10-03-2002, 12:12 PM

it will effect handling a little. If you have a friend with a XXXNT, the best handling truck on the market, take a look at the front suspension. The shock tower is tilted back, the shocks are angled back, the A-arms are angled as well, and there is plenty of Castor. I think this change will in fact HELP the handling. There is really no way to tell, however, without trying it.

Dissymetery, i need to measure a few things on mine and I will then give you all the details you will need.

The only proble is this. In order to prevent the dogbone from binding, the chassis has to be lengthened slightly, or the dogbone shortened(which is what I did). If you lengthen the chassis too much to overcome this problem, the top brace between the front diff and the steering posts will not work any longer.

I will check the exact distance between the two sets of holes on the top brace(that's the length the chassis should be lengthened) and the height of the front of my chassis when bottomed, and the length of the portion of the chassis that is kicked up so I can figure the actual angles and add that info to the drawing, as well as indicate where the bend should be placed.

I don;t know much about your processes, but I would think it would be much cheaper to cut, bend, and drill flat 3mm stock pieces than to mill a Chassis out of solid 1/2" stock. I'm gonna check for an exact measurement, but I'm pretty sure I have a good 1" clearance on the front end onow when the chassis is pressed down on my desk. There should be no need for any welding.

cmracing

10-03-2002, 01:02 PM

Why is 3mm used and not 4mm or 5mm? A 3mm chassis with ribs in it would be stronger. Anyway, about the Caster question. I usually get Caster and Camber mixed-up. I believe Caster is the measurement of the imaginary line drawn through the upper and lower steering knuckle attachment points as viewed from the side. If it is perpendicular to the ground, 90 degrees, then there is 0 Caster. The more you "lay-it-back", Positive Caster, then better it will handle at higher speeds and it will have slower steering response at lower speeds. If you "lay-it-foward", Negative Caster, then it will handle better at slower speeds and be a real handful to drive at higher speeds. Camber is the measurement of the imaginary line drawn through the same points as Caster but now you are looking down from the top of the car. It is actually very easy to see when looking head-on. Are the tops of the wheels pointing outwards from each other, inwards, or perfectly straight up and down? Toe is the last measurement. If you take the measurement from the middle of each tire (from left to right) in front of the axle and behind the axle, you will get the Toe measurement. You always want a little in, or zero. Never OUT! If it is out, Positive Toe, then it will never track straight. The resone is because each wheel wants to go where it is pointed, which is outwards, so it always wants to go left or right. Too much Toe-In will simply scrub off more speed than neccessary and wear the inside of the tires more than is needed. There, a LONGgggggg explanation of front-end alignments! How do I know all this? I need to set this stuff on my Drag Race car so I can go down the track as fast and straight as possible!:D

Crashbot2001

10-03-2002, 02:48 PM

CMRacing, I agree with you on all points but the toe-out issue. I often run a slight toe out on my XXXNT. It REALLY helps on tracks with a lot of 180 degree turns, like my local track.. There is a lot of steering with toe-out. I have had no problems with the vehicle tracking straight, and our straightaway is about 110 feet long, however, as I said, my toe-out is only slight.

I'm leaving the country for two weeks, but I'll send you what I have. maybe you can work with it.

mercenario27

10-03-2002, 04:31 PM

Does anyone have any pictures of the world II chassis. The photos on the Hong Nor site don't show any "kick up" If anyone were to make a new chassis they would build it from the ground up and redesign the front bulkheads so that the front diff doesn't point down causing stress on the cups and dogbones. It would be to costly, it would be cheaper to buy a new buggy. I would like to find a direct bolt-on bumper

Crashbot2001

10-03-2002, 06:00 PM

ok guys.. never ask your wife to measure stuff while you're at work.. got home and checked and this is what I found.

I have 1/2" of kick-up. The bend is actually pretty tight and it's exactly 3" from the front edge of the chassis. The front diff case is 2-3/4" from fromt to back, not 3". the holes in the top brace are spaced exactly 3/16" apart. After drawing it up, I was able to calculate the angle at 9 degrees, which means nothing to most of us, as 9 degrees over 5 inches is a lot more than 9 degrees over 3 inches and so on. But it'll probably help Dissymetry. SO..

Dissymetry, either reproduce the existing chassis, then apply a 9 degree bend 3" from the front edge and advise folks to use the forward holes in the top brace AND shave the ball portion of the dog-bones with a dremel to avoid binding...

OR

Produce a new chassis with 3/16" added to the lenth between the front posts and the bend location. This would allow the standard holes on the top brace to be used, as well as prevent binding of the bones in the cups. I'm sending you some new drawings that show my buggy as it, and how I would go about it with the lengthened chassis.

mercenario27, the amount of angle produced by the bend is only 9 degrees. If you look at an MBX buggy from the top, you will see that the lateral angle between the center diff and the front and rear diffs is already much greater than the angle created by bending the chassis, so there should be no ill effects whatsoever to the bones or drive cups. If this was going to be a problem, it would have already surfaced due to the lateral angles already present in the design.. The bent chassis is simply adding a vertical deflection as well, and much less than the existing.

PLUS.. take a look at the rear drive dogbones on a buggy. they move up and down, changing the angle as the suspension moves. So, obviously, the bones being at an angle to the cups is NOT a factor to worry about AT ALL.. SO... NO NEW BULKHEAD REQUIRED...

Dissymetry.. you should have everything you need with this and the drawings.. minus an existing chassis.. Good luck.. Maybe you can cut me a deal on one of the new ones.. I'll be happy to try it out for you.

Crashbot2001

10-03-2002, 06:51 PM

Here are some pictures:

This one shows(though hard to see) the Lateral angle of the dogbones due to the center diff not in line with the front and rear. It's particularly evident in the front shaft. I've never seen a buggy that does not have this set-up, and it is not a problem. That's why the drive cups have the "funnel" shaped opening.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p3e62e1beb801c421f4be6039c5367844/fd34c815.jpg

Click HERE (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p3e62e1beb801c421f4be6039c5367844/fd34c815.jpg) to see the original picture

This image shows the vertical angle of my font drive cup after the bend. It's hard to see too, but look carefully

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/pc2e43b939c484e740ee730b647429f3f/fd34c811.jpg

Click HERE (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/pc2e43b939c484e740ee730b647429f3f/fd34c811.jpg) to see the original

This image shows the effect of the bend.. 1/2" clearance at the nose with the chassis fully flattened out on my desk
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/pcac9b23dbb81716af013b9161fa9af1a/fd34c80d.jpg
Click HERE (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/pcac9b23dbb81716af013b9161fa9af1a/fd34c80d.jpg) for the original

And Lastly, I had to take a glamour shot since Ihad the camera and she's just such a beauty!!
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p84fd7deaf97bf681aefbb110d586fb84/fd34c80e.jpg
Click HERE (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p84fd7deaf97bf681aefbb110d586fb84/fd34c80e.jpg) for the original

Crashbot2001

10-03-2002, 07:15 PM

So you can see, it works!!!

Now, there is not a tremendous amount of kick-up, though the picture is bad and the front bumper hides the front edge of the chassis, so it looks like less than there is, BUT

With the flat chassis, I found that the buggy would "Plow" even when it lands flat if the chassis bottoms out because the front edge of the chassis would contact the dirt. As you can see, this will no longer be a problem. I can even land a bit nose first and get away with it!

It was definately worth trying "the bend" and I'm glad I did. I hope dissymetry goes through with the design. The MBX is tough as nails and with some kick-up can be competitive, in my opinion!

dissymmetry

10-03-2002, 08:12 PM

Everything seems to be in order. I am now just waiting for the sample chassis to start on it.

I was concerned about welding because I have seen alum chassis with multiple bends on the sides that meet at a weld. From the pics of this chassis though these side bends are bolted on to the chassis as a separate piece.

Later

Crashbot2001

10-03-2002, 09:33 PM

dissymetry, the MBX buggy chassis is totally flat. The black side pieces are plastic and they screw to the sides of the chassis, so no welding should be necessary. Is someone sending you a chassis so you can get locations and sizes of screw holes, etc?

cmracing

10-03-2002, 10:40 PM

Crashbot2001: I am sending him a chassis this weekend. I have a spare I bought from Ebay and he sent me his mailing address. I hope this works-out. As far as toe-in goes on the Losi, I guess in RC car land it may help. It will certainly make the thing steer quickly left or right! How well it tracks when trying to go straight is another story, but on dirt, who goes straight anyway!! :D Maybe on asphalt you would notice. You would certainly notice toe-out in a Drag Race car, and it ain't fun! :eek:

gaus

10-03-2002, 11:06 PM

Please respond if you can give me some good tips on proper engine maintenance. Is there much that needs to be done to extend the life of the engine besides after run oil and cleaning? How long should an engine last (under normal circumstances)?

Thanks.

gaus

Got Speed

10-04-2002, 10:02 AM

Id say under normal wear(no excesive strain), using name brand 20% fuel, using after run oil, properly tuned, and keeping it from over heating usually around 3 gallons. Could be more or less depends on how well you take care of it and the engine itself. I had an engine I only got three quarts once but other engines have been pretty good to me. Some people can get as many as 6 or 7 gallons but usually only with alot of care or they just got one of the "best of the bunch".

Steps to a long lasting engine:

1-Id recomend using name brand 15-20% car fuel such as Blue Thunder, Trinity Monster Horsepower, or Odonnell. There are other good fuels but these are the main ones. Don't use airplane fuel. Your engine will perform badly and overheat. Store it in a cool, dark, dry, off the floor place to keep your fuel fresh.

2-Use after-run oil after you put your car up for the day.

3-Always make sure you have the air filter on and that it is cleaned and oiled. (this is one of the most important steps to a long-lasting engine) You can clean it with soap and water and then oil it with WD-40 or after-run oil. Once you oil it easily squeeze the filter element to get excess oil out. If your air filter pops off shut off the car imedeatly, take off the glow plug and "flush" the engine with after run oil until there are no more specs of dirt.

4-Don't let your engine overheat. With most engines the ideal temperature is between 200 and 270. Usually you tune your engine to performance and then back of the needle 1/4 of a turn. Don't tune to temperature just use it as a guide and to make sure you arn't overheating your engine. There is no ideal temperature though, it depends on the weather and the engine. For example: I have a .12 CV-R that likes to run about 135-150, I had an AE .15 that liked to run about 210-225, and a Hyper .21 that likes to run about 215-230. Keeping you engine clean and your drivetrain free from binding will keep your engine running cooler.

5-These are the "biggies" imo to a long lasting engine. When it comes time for a rebuild you have two options: 1- You can buy a new piston and sleeve which usually run about $45-$75 or you can get it sqeezed for $25 from osrocket on these forms.

LosiGuy62314

10-04-2002, 09:56 PM

i have a few questions about the pivot ball suspension on the MBX because i may buy one in the near future.

1) the mbx is like the only buggy ive seen with pivot balls and the 80% kit doesn't seem to have rear turnbuckles for camber adjustments. is there a way to adjust rear camber?

2) is front camber adjustable?? again, from what i can see from pics, i do not see any turnbuckles in the front except for toe in/out.

3) on the ofna site, the 80% version claims to come with a pipe and header, but on towerhobbies' web site, it says it needs pipe and manifold. which one is rite?

4) i know this is the specific MBX thread, but how does the MBX compare to the GS Storm or Ultra GT LX Pro?? im lookin for answers from people who actually own those cars.

any answers apreciated very much.

Got Speed

10-05-2002, 12:02 AM

Im going to get one too. I asked the same questions on the last page, lol.

You are talking about the MBX R2 arn't you?
If so:

You adjust camber on a pivot ball suspension by screwing or unscrewing the top or bottom pivot ball. As for rear camber I don't know.

It does come with a pipe and header. Ofna has pics of it on there web site with the MBX R2. Tower hobbies gets there info mixed up alot on their site.

I think the GS storm is slightly better than the MBX R2 and the MBX R2 is slightly better than the GT LX.

I wouldn't get the MBX R2 for racing personnaly but it's real good for bashing.

Vmax911

10-05-2002, 01:24 AM

You can adjust the rear Camber, but its a PITA. The rear suspension upper link is a threaded rod, so if you disconnect the link you can twist it to adjust camber (I don't know why they didn't use a turnbuckle.)

Like Got Speed said, you adjust the font camber by moving the upper ball in or out. Also, you can adjust the rear toe the same way (screwing or unscrewing a pivot ball).

I also agree about what he said reguarding racing. If you're going to be a serious racer, you won't want the MBX. I started racing with my Ofna, but have since moved up to a Mugen XR (also with pivot ball suspension I might add). However, the Ofna is a great Basher, very durable!

Crashbot2001

10-05-2002, 07:56 AM

Those guys nailed it on the head. they forgot to answer one question though. It DOES come with the header and pipe. Not a great one, but you can run with it.

Also, I don;t use the connecting rod to adjust my camber. I use the two lower balls. Moving them in or out as opposed to lengthening or shortening the rod. Works fine.. Just like on the front, just on the front you only have to adjust one. The two balls in the rear allow you to adjust the rear toe as well.

The MBX needs kick-up!

The Storm is better than the MBX
The MBX is better than the GT LX

Wanna Race Buggy? Get the Hyper 7 Pro!! It's BADAZZ

cmracing

10-05-2002, 10:05 AM

Crashbot2001: Have you finished putting your buggy back together after bending the chassis? I would like to know how the steering and handling seem to be after doing that. I am sending a spare chassis out (finally!) and see what happens. I am get another chassis off of Ebay and try to bend it like you did. I would rather here how your buggy acts before I throw $20-$25 away (again!):D

LosiGuy62314

10-05-2002, 11:14 AM

wut makes the MBX better than the GT LX Pro(not just the plain GT LX)?? the GT LX Pro includes threaded shocks, a very nice engine(Ofna .25), cast aluminum knuckles, and threaded turnbucks. but the radio sucks so thats why im keepin my radio setup from my XXXNT when i sell it.

Crashbot2001

10-05-2002, 01:43 PM

cmracing, yes my biggy is back together. I have not run it yet as I'm waiting on a piston and sleeve. It'll be a few weeks because I'm leaving the country mondy for two weeks. I'll be sure to post how it handles when I find out.

-=ADA$=-

10-06-2002, 06:38 AM

And what happened to you PS?? worn, are you getting new one?? im still gathering money for engine, so my mbx still is waiting

Crashbot2001

10-06-2002, 08:12 AM

ADA, comae aross an old OS RX on e-bay and picked it up. Lasted me a month(it was worn when I got it). New p/s are 80 bucks.. no way.. A buddy gave me an Omega/Picco Sport Buggy .21 engine, but again, it's worn. P/S set is 45 bucks though, so I'm willing to fork it out for a new one. I would have just sent the old one to be squeezed by osrocket, however, it was damaged(scratches and some pitting)

-=ADA$=-

10-06-2002, 08:21 AM

man i cant wait till i get my engine, and see how it runs, i will get servo also, cause now i have hitec 303 which is very weak., but ill probably order it in two weeks
*edit: i just noticed, are those kyosho springs?? are they any better, whats the cost, and performance

dmrcflyr2

10-10-2002, 08:32 PM

I just ordered the Ofna MBX R2 80% kit from Ace Hobbies and was thinking about putting the new XTM 24.7 engine in it. Can anyone provide some information/experiences both good and bad with either the MBX or the 24.7?

I have tried making it through most of the MBX threads but have not seen much on the new XTM engine.

Thanks.

cmracing

10-10-2002, 11:52 PM

Well, if you aren't in a rush gimme some time. I have a brand new MBX R2 kit to build (80% kit) and bought the XTM engine for it. I haven't had time to do it yet, but I will shortly! I have a GTLX with the stock P4 in it and that thing flies! If the XTM has that much more power then I can't imagine what it will be like. :D

cmracing

10-11-2002, 12:05 AM

Ok, I have spent the last three days racing my Ofna Ultra against Mugens and a Kyosho Inferno at a local track. This is what I have found: Front end kick-up helps when landing incorrectly on jumps, but it isn't totally necessary. You want it if you can have it. ;) My stock Ofna P4 would almost keep up with the RB Concept engines these guys have (WS7). At the end of the straight they would be about 2 feet ahead of me, that's it! I could actually get through the straight and following corner quicker than they could because of the line I chose to drive, they were more conservative! :D The Mugen is a REALLY nice car! If you want to race seriously with the "Big Boyz", then a Mugen would be my choice to run. I think with more chassis and shock tuning I can keep up with a lot of these guys, it just takes time. One BIG complaint I have with the Ofnas are their diffs! I have killed two ring gears so far! I need to figure-out what is going-on with these things. By the way: my buggy started as a pure GTLX. I saw the other cars at the track ran a lot of rear toe-in which can not be set on the GTLX. I swapped a MBX rear suspension at the track (a whopping 5 minute job) and then ran that, the front is still the stock GTLX. It helped it make more traction, but it wasn't a night and day difference. Tires made the biggest difference there! The stock Ofna tires were USELESS on that track. They have been fine everywhere else for me though. One more thing: Blue Loctite has not been working for me at all on this thing! I will try Red Loctite and see what happens. I seem to have a lot of set-screws for the driveshafts coming loose on me. :(

-=ADA$=-

10-11-2002, 02:17 AM

i think there you should use green locktight, thats what i use, and you can also shrinkwrap the ends of cvds, to prevent the pin from coming out, and setscrew also, and i think there is hardened ring and pinion here (http://www.ace-hobbies.com) but i cant guarantee anything

cmracing

10-15-2002, 09:50 AM

From what I have found, Ofna makes a hardened ring gear. Maybe that will help keep this thing together longer! Anyone else have problems with their ring gears? I bet the gear is getting destroyed when landing from jumps under power. Without enough throttle the front will nose-dive and either plow dirt or go tumbling! I need to try and add kick-up to my chassis so I can let off the throttle some when landing, that will certainly help things!

prevelige

10-15-2002, 02:42 PM

Yeah, I destroyed a ring gear in my rear diff. I don't know if it was coincidence or not, but it was right after I increased the weight of the diff oil in the center diff. Seems like the extra power to the rear chewed it up.

Ofna does make hardened gears for it, but my LHS only had the stocker, and I couldn't wait. So far the new one has been fine.

mercenario27

10-15-2002, 03:55 PM

There is a current recall on the Ofna GTLX/MBX Diffs

http://www.ofna.com/recall.html

cmracing

10-16-2002, 12:06 AM

Yes, thanks for the info. I had read about the "recall". I honestly do not know of anyone that has actually chewed-up their diffs yet. I know PLENTY of people that have munched a ring gear or two. No pinions though oddly enough! :confused: I bought a whole bunch of spare parts thru ebay auctions. I wonder if Ofna will give me parts to fix all of these. I doubt it, but I am going to try. I wish they would give me the hardened ring gears. I just bought a pair today at close to $30 a shot. I was told that this will solve my problem. ;) I think the true solution is either a Hyper 7 or a Mugen! :D The Inferno is also very good. Either of those buggies will handle a lot of power and stay together. I will continue on with my Ultra series of Ofnas until I can't take it anymore! :) A heads-up for all fellow Ofna bashers: Take the time to pull the rears out of your cars and trucks and remove the drive collars. Seems that the holes aren't always drilled and tapped 100% which will lead you to think that you are tightening the set-screws against the flats on the shafts when all you are actually are doing is binding the set-screw inside the drive collar. i found this as I was about to put red loctite on those damn set-screws! :mad: :mad: I ran the set-screws all the way through, cleaned the threads off, and used blue loctite. So far so good! :D

cmracing

10-22-2002, 11:24 AM

Hey Crashbot, you back in the country yet? I emailed Dissemetry for his name so I could ship him the chassis but I haven't had a response yet. After all the Anthrax episodes we had in the North East, inlcuding a post office not far from where I live, they will not ship anything without ALL the necessary information on it! In the meantime, I took a spare chassis and modified it like you did. I had a LOT of trouble with the front dog bone! I took the ball off each end. I made deeper slots in the drive cups. I even had to cut some of the front pinion shaft off! After an hour of grinding, cleaning, re-fitting, etc...it all finally fit together with no binding. I put it all back together and now I need a chance to go try it. My main concern is the Caster adjustment now. It should help high-speed stability, but may make taking sharp corners at low-speeds harder, though I may not even notice it since I have a good high-torque servo in there anyway.

coyote660

10-22-2002, 11:30 AM

ofna won't send you diddley without your original receipts.

bl4ckj4ck

10-22-2002, 12:18 PM

what speeds can i expect to see from a Ofna MBX with a picco force 21 engine????????

Got Speed

10-22-2002, 03:48 PM

The MBX R2 does work with standard cranks right?:eek:

cmracing

10-22-2002, 05:42 PM

Well, for anyone interested in the chassis kick-up question: It is good to have kick-up. The buggy was much easier to run today and didn't need as much throttle in mid-air to keep it level enough that it wouldn't nose-dive and flip end over end when landing. This makes it easier on the engine and drivetrain. I ran a whole tank with no trouble. Halfway through the second tank though it died! :( It seems that all the grinding I had to do on the front dogbone weakend the press-fit of the drive pin in the end, which decided to take an early exit. The buggy just sat still and revved...............:mad: So now what to do? I can try to modify another dogbone again and try not to take off as much metal this time. I wish I could find a slightly shorter one, that would be much easier! Bending the chassis helps the handling and jumping a lot, so it is certainly something worth doing once the proper length dog bone can be found or made!

Vmax911

10-22-2002, 10:02 PM

How much kick up are you guys adding to you chassis? Most 1/8 buggies have 6-8 degrees (not nearly as much as 2wd). When I added my worlds I chassis (6 deg) I didn't have to modify anything (just use the second hole in the brace).

cmracing

10-22-2002, 11:05 PM

I honestly do not know in degrees how much kick-up I added. I will take some measurements and try to figure it out. The amount I added is good though. I really screwed-up though with the front dog bone!!!!:mad: :mad: Somehow I used the rear dog bone in the front and had to grind a lot of it away to make it fit without binding. It wasn't until I went to replace the front dog bone after one of the pins came out that I saw it was too long. I did not realize the front and rear dog bones were different lengths! Well, live and learn. A new, unmodified front dog bone is now in place and ready for more track time. Bending the chassis was certainly worth the effort. :D

Got Speed

10-24-2002, 09:47 PM

I have the money now to get an MBX R2 but I came across a deal on a nice never used sinyah buggy. It looks very similar to the MBX R2 plus. Here is a picture of it. Should I stick with the MBX R2 or go with this sinyah buggy. Also does anyone have a link to their website, lol, sorry, I have never heard of sinyah before.

Also does the MBX R2 accept a short shaft engine? If not will a .21 T-Maxx clutch nut work.

Thanks alot!:)

dmrcflyr2

10-26-2002, 01:44 PM

cmracing, how did you add the kick up? I have been thinking about doing it, but I could not come up with a good idea to brace the chassis and bend it.

I still have not completed mine yet. I am going to put some diff oil in the diffs. Any suggetions on weights? I purchased 1000 and 3000 just for the heck of it. I am also going to make gaskets for between chassis and the front and rear diff mounts. It seems odd that the bevel gears would not be sealed.

I am installing the Ofna Hyper 21 8 port engine. I have a CVEC pipe also, but I think I will put that on my Dominator instead.

Here is a picture of my car.

cmracing

10-26-2002, 07:19 PM

DMRCFLYR: I would use 7000 in the front, 5000 in the middle, and 3000 in the rear. This seems to be a good combo, but I guess it really depends on where you run it. This is the basic combo people at the track in CT run and it works well. Believe it or not, the guys with the Mugens there don't even run grease on their ring and pinions! Since Mugen doesn't tell them to use any, they don't. They also don't wear them out or break them, so I guess they are ok. I use heavy synthetic front-end grease for regular cars in my front and rear diffs (for the ring and pinion). I use clear packing tape on the bottom of the diffs to help keep any dust and water out of them. I would love to get a machine shop to machine a small groove on the chassis to put an o-ring in, but the tape has been working fine for now. As far as bending the chassis: That was a royal pain in the ass! I tool two old heatsinks that are about 6 inches long and 3 inches wide and bolted them together but left enough clearance to slide them down the chassis. I had to do this since my vise was not big enough to slide the chassis down to where I wanted to bend it. I clamped the heatsinks in the vise and then slowly bent the chassis. I'll tell you this: It is pretty strong! After that (it took a few times to bend it to where I wanted to, a little at a time), I put it all back together. I was able to use the other set of holes in the front brace between the front diff and the steering posts. You will need to make the slots deeper on the drive cups for the front diff, and possibly the center diff. That's it, it works great! Cheaper than buying a Mugen I guess.

Got Speed

10-26-2002, 07:58 PM

The diffs arn't sealed?!:confused: Has anyone added torque rods to their MBX R2? How about quad brakes?

What do you guys do to seal yours? Would a good diff oil starting position be 4000 front, 7000 center, and 2000 rear?

Also I have 8 threads on the crank of my Hyper .21 is that enough for the clutch nut with the MBX R2? It does include a clutch nut right? Not a clutch nut for an SG shaft either.

Thanks alot. I hope to get my MBX R2 by wendsday or thursday! :D

Thanks

Vmax911

10-26-2002, 08:32 PM

I think they are talking about sealing between the diff housing and the chassis. The actual diff itself is sealed.

I've never put grease on my rings and pinions in either my ofna or Mugen, and I haven't had any problems with them. However, the mugen gears seem to be machined better, they feel much smoother.

I haven't done quad brakes, but I have upgraded to the stainless steel brakes. I don't think quad would help much since I can already lock the wheels up.

For diff weights most people run the heaviest in the middle, then the front, and the lightest in the rear.

And yes, the kit comes with a clutch nut for a threaded shaft. The threads on the crankshaft should be fine. In fact, I had to grind off a few threads on my OS RG shaft.

anothermbdusted

10-27-2002, 05:05 PM

hey crashbot hows the kick up doing so far? I was thinking about it and you said that there is a little angle between the drive line and the cup up front what would happen if you shimed the rear of the diff. on the front end diff to lift it a bit to get the angle a little better? if it is going good then cool but i was just thinking and thought i might share my thoughts thats all

chevelledude33

10-28-2002, 01:30 AM

hey guys how do you think the new gtlx will run? with the ofna25?:)

dissymmetry

10-28-2002, 12:02 PM

dbl post

dissymmetry

10-28-2002, 12:06 PM

cmracing:
Sorry I have been away from the forum for a bit... I never got that email. Just send the package here:

Aero-RC
3627 Sausalito St.
Los Alamitos, CA 90720

Vmaxx911 or anyone who is interested ...
I think to do this properly I will need a worlds I chassis to work from. Judging the problems cmracing had after following Crashbot's lead, there are some real potential problems with the modification if it's not just right. So I guess I'm asking if anyone would be willing to send me a worlds I chassis so I can clone it.

Crashbot2001

10-28-2002, 02:15 PM

CM Racing, I'm back.. Hey, I had the same problems with my drive collars.. all 8 of them came loose at one time or anther.. All fixed now...

LMAO about putting the wrong dogbone in front when re-assembling.. I nearly did the same thing.. i went to put it in and it was way long.. said to myself, no way I bent the chassis up that much.. noticed one was shorter and viola.. small amount of grinding on the correct bone and it goes right in no problem.. lol

anothermbusted... The problem with your idea is that the bottom of the bulkhead is not solid. If you shimmed it up, dirt would get under and inside with the front diff and cause major problems with the diff. The angle produced by adding the kick-up causes no problems whatsoever, so no shimmig is really required.. good idea though!!

I've not been able to run the buggy at all... Still need to order a piston and sleeve for my mill, and that's gotta wait until I get the parts I need for my number 1 ride, my XXXNT... This hobby is expensive!!!

Freddy1902

10-28-2002, 03:55 PM

Hey, i was thinking of purchasing an ofna ultra mbx but i don't know anything about this one so could someone tell me anything useful about this buggy anything that is good of bad about it and maybe how fast if goes and if the engine is a good engine

gaus

10-31-2002, 11:47 PM

Some info on MBX Ultra, in general:

Good car. Fast, durable. Fun. I have run 3 gallons through mine and the engine seems to be running fine. It does seem to run hot though, maybe that's just my lack of skills. No problems to report other than a tendency to break the rear wing. I do not race nor do I intend to right now. I also just bought an HPI MT Racer Kit. I comes tomorrow. Yipeee.

That said, I have just wrapped up all my servos in plastic and sealed up the Rx box. What can I expect as far as the engine is concerned when running this car in the snow on a 'warm' day? (50 -60 degrees). There is fresh snow and I am curious of others experience running nitro cars. Would be nice to make a packed down track in my front yard...

gaus

Vmax911

11-01-2002, 01:59 AM

dissymmetry-

Actually I'm getting ready to sell my Ofna buggy, so I wouln't be able to send you the chassis. If you like I could take some pics for you. Or I've heard that the new Ultra GT LX pro has front kickup, and I bet they just used a worlds I chassis for that too....

YoSystmSucks

11-03-2002, 09:03 AM

Why not try cutting a grove right after the end of the front diff so that way you get a straighter bend, and since the top brace is still being used the strenght of the chassis shouldnt be affected.

-=ADA$=-

11-03-2002, 09:18 AM

i think that cutting chassis will make it much weaker, and front end takes much stress, so i believe it will be better to make the whole new chassis with kick up so it will fit, also did anyone see the new MBX R2 PLUS, it has hard coated chassis, and torque rods, so i think if its possible i would switch for that chassis, i mailed ofna, and waiting respons, if the chassis has kick up, it would be great

YoSystmSucks

11-03-2002, 09:40 AM

R2 plus = Ultra Worlds 2....

-=ADA$=-

11-03-2002, 09:44 AM

didnt know that, though that Plus is new desing, so does that chassis, and torqe rods fit standar R2??

Vmax911

11-03-2002, 06:04 PM

The worlds 2 chassis is not a direct replacement for MBX R2 chassis. The center diff is mounted farther back, though I'm sure with some modifications and braces it could work.

-=ADA$=-

11-04-2002, 04:30 PM

cause i would like the kick ups (front and side) but im affraid to bend it, so i would rather get some other chassis the fit, also torqe rods, but im sure its easier to do than bending chassis

ROD B

11-05-2002, 12:19 PM

i dont know if it would help but the new lx pro has kick up maybe it is a direct replacement for the mbx chassis. that would sure take the guess work out of bending you chassis
because the more angle on the bend the more material would have to be added to compensate for the area of bent material
so maybe it worth looking in to for you flat chassis guys i think the chassis is only 75$ or so

Crashbot2001

11-08-2002, 11:39 AM

My MBX R2 with Kick-Up if up for sale on the For Sale thread..

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=102390

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid34/p84fd7deaf97bf681aefbb110d586fb84/fd34c80e.jpg

-=ADA$=-

11-09-2002, 04:41 AM

why are you selling it?? found something else??

mercenario27

11-09-2002, 06:06 AM

I met the guy from http://www.geocities.com/ssrcparts he said he can make me new shock towers for my MBX R2, is there anything I should have him change about the shock towers. They will be CNC 7075-T6. He was considering making aluminum arms for the GTLX since it was so popular and people only bash them not race them. Is there anything else I should ask him to make??

If someone has a cad file of the Kick-up chassis everyone one is talking about making I'll have SSRCPARTS take a look at it

Crashbot2001

11-09-2002, 09:22 AM

Originally posted by -=ADA$=-
why are you selling it?? found something else??

ADA, 5 words... Ofna Hyper Seven Pro Kit!! LOL

Mercenario, I have the cad files at work.. I can send them to you Tuesday when I go back. They are not complete though. That is to say, they show how the kick up was accomplished, but they don;t show the stock arrangement of the holes on the chassis and such. With the cad files and a stock chassis however, your friend should be able to come up with something. You need those in DXF format?

-=ADA$=-

11-09-2002, 11:07 AM

These five words explains the decision,

mercenario27

11-09-2002, 10:46 PM

What ever works with AutoCad. I noticed no one makes parts for the ofna buggies other than the hyper and 9.5

RJ88

11-10-2002, 12:24 AM

I just bought a Mbx rtr, this is my 1st 1/8 scale buggy. I read a lot of posts about diff oils. Can I use diff oil in my Mbx or do I have to seal the cases. If so how do I go about doing that? What oils should I use? The diffs in the buggy are lubed with grease right now, and It seems like there is more punch from the front than in the rear. Will diff oil help get more power to the rear?

PCC

11-10-2002, 01:43 PM

I don't have an Ultra MBX but I have had an Ultra GT LX that is now almost a Worlds 2. I have had a Worlds 1, too, but I sold that one shortly after I got it.

The Worlds 1 chassis will be a direct swap for you guys with MBX's. I will assume that the GT LX Pro uses the same chassis.

The Worlds 2 chassis needs quite a few things to complete the swap and this will cost a lot to complete. Luckily, Ace Hobbies had a Worlds 2 that they opened to sell parts from and I was able to talk them into selling me the chassis, braces, servo tray, radio box, etc, for a cheap price ($75).
The only things I still have from my Ultra GT are the bulkheads and suspension, engine, electronics, fuel tank, steering gear, and center diff assembly. The conversion needed new chassis braces, a new servo tray (the mounting post holes don't line up), new radio box, new plastic wings, new front upper brace (between the front diff and the steering pilot shafts), and body, since the old body now doesn't fit the new position of the front body post.

Crashbot2001

11-11-2002, 08:57 AM

Originally posted by RJ88
I just bought a Mbx rtr, this is my 1st 1/8 scale buggy. I read a lot of posts about diff oils. Can I use diff oil in my Mbx or do I have to seal the cases. If so how do I go about doing that? What oils should I use? The diffs in the buggy are lubed with grease right now, and It seems like there is more punch from the front than in the rear. Will diff oil help get more power to the rear?

RJ88, you can (and I recommend) using diff oil. The cases are pretty tight as they are. Might add a touch of silicone sealnt around where the two halves go together, but prob not necessary. Diff oile will help get more to the rear. Use the thickest in the center, medium in the front, and lightest(or just grease) in the rear.

spenzalii

11-11-2002, 03:29 PM

I'm not sure if this has been asked, but does anyone know what the Ultra GTP conversion kit has in it? I would like to get a buggy, and have no clue which to get. Ofna has plenty to choose from, but the ability to take it onroad would be a nice bid for the MBX line as opposed the Hyper7 and the 9.5

cmracing

11-11-2002, 03:46 PM

I am about to order the Ultra GTP conversion kit for a buggy (MBX R2) that I am putting together. From what I was told, it includes the following: Body (several types available), wheels and tires (don't think we get two complete sets like the RTR's include), body mounts, front bumper (2 pc's, a large plastic base that bolts to the chassis and a large foam bumper that bolts to the plastic one), and possibly a different rear shock mount and shorter rear shocks. I was told that it did not include the GTP-specific springs, they may be softer since this car is not susposed to be jumping off-road, maybe off curbs though....:) I plan on ordering my kit sometime this week. If you don't mind waiting then I will be the Guinea-Pig for this one! :D

oohnoo

11-11-2002, 04:20 PM

HiHo
I already bought that kit for my MBX R2! It come with the following: Your choice of body, 2 sets of wheels (crome rims w/slicks, black rims/w treaded) Front and Rear shock towers, Front bumper and all body mounts and YES front and rear shock springs to use with your MBX shocks. And new rear turnbuckles and 1 mount.
I got my kit from JR at Ace for 99. Very awsome, lowers the car dramitically. You'll have to shorten your shocks a little but that's no big deal.

spenzalii

11-12-2002, 08:40 AM

And new rear turnbuckles and 1 mount
Why the turnbuckles, and what one mount?

oohnoo

11-12-2002, 08:45 AM

HiHo
The new turnbuckle has right and left hand threads on it for ease of adjustablity for camber, hence the new mount. Should have called it the ball end actually.

spenzalii

11-12-2002, 08:52 AM

Aha, I see. Now, if memory serves, the MBX has a center diff, yes/no? I know the GTP's don't. How would that affect the handling? And has anybody tried the 2 speed they have? I'm trying to figure out which way I want to go with this: whether to just get the GTP, or buy the kit and have a dual purpose machine. And can I put another 1/8 scale body on it from either Tamiya or HPI?

oohnoo

11-12-2002, 09:01 AM

HiHo
Don't know about the center diff as I'm using the one from the MBX. I do know that lots of people are using the 2 speed. You can put whatever body you want on it, it's just that the wheels are going to stick out cause this sucker is WIDE. Remember this was a buggy and they have a wide wheelbase, which is one reason it corners so well.

spenzalii

11-12-2002, 09:20 AM

SuperSweet! They don't use the 2 speed off road, do they? I would think that would cause undue stress on the components. Otherwise, it sounds like a good deal. Do you know if either the Hyper7 or the 9.5 are based on the MBX line in any way? I saw someone running a H7 with the Celica body during a really silly race. The body wasn't mounted properly, but it did handle quite well considering.

oohnoo

11-12-2002, 09:23 AM

Go to the Ofna site. The MBX and GTP are basically the same car.

cmracing

11-12-2002, 09:35 AM

Yes, the MBX and GTP are almost identical. You can easily transform one into the other for less than $100. The GTP does not have a center diff like the MBX or GT LX. You can put one in there if you want, but most people prefer to run the 2-speed transmissions because of the cool gear-change sound! (Besides the extra top-end speed!) The 2-speed transmissions aren't too good off-road since the gears are exposed to the rocks and dirt all the time. If you enclose them, or don't mind replacing them once in awhile, that trans can be used off-road also.

spenzalii

11-12-2002, 02:51 PM

??? You can't run the diffs and the 2 speed at the same time? That's weird. Also, are you using the cam type or the clutch/shoe type 2 speed in there? I saw them both on the site.

cmracing

11-12-2002, 07:01 PM

Sorry for the misunderstanding. You can run the diffs in the front and rear as normal. If you want, you can run a center diff. You can also put one of the 2-speed transmissions in there which will take the place of the center diff. I guess I have the clutch/shoe type. It shifts by itself, I don't have a servo hooked to it. I never saw them both apart side by side so I am not sure. It is aprt number 35011 if that helps you any.

dmrcflyr2

11-16-2002, 07:30 AM

Just curious, does anyone know what MBX stands for? Mugen uses that term as well.:confused:

PCC

11-16-2002, 10:38 AM

It's funny, I was thinking about Mugen's naming convention last night. This is what I came up with:

MRX2, 3: Mugen Racing X(?!)
MTX2, 3: Mugen Touring X
MSX3: Mugen Sport X
MST1: Mugen Stadium Truck
MBX: Mugen Buggy X

dmrcflyr2

11-16-2002, 12:43 PM

It can't be anything Mugen because Ofna has the Ultra MBX R2.

-=ADA$=-

11-16-2002, 05:13 PM

i think mugen had it first, and name of ofna buggy is from that it uses mugen MBX steering (pivot ball)

KOLOR KRAFT

11-23-2002, 02:31 PM

hey dudes were did everybody go i no its to cold and snowing up here in ny so can't break in new rb s7 buy the way does anybody else have that motor in there mbx. i heard it will blow it apart cool............................

-=ADA$=-

11-23-2002, 04:55 PM

I think that it can destroy diffs, but if it does, get set of hardened gears, also i would love to have that engine, now i only have rolling chassis, and im gathering money for engine and good steering servo, well, someday ill get it, have fun with you buggy with killer motor :D LOL !!!!

gaus

11-23-2002, 10:08 PM

I run my MBX ULTRA with the stock engine, Hyper .21. I have been running the cr@p out of this car, and lately in the snow. I think I've gone though about 5 gallons of fuel. What is anyone's guess as to what will go wrong with the engine first and what do I need to have on hand to perform repairs?

gaus

coyote660

11-24-2002, 11:45 AM

right on gaus...5 gallons..cr@p and snow...drive on pal:D

KOLOR KRAFT

11-24-2002, 03:59 PM

you are gona need pisto sleeve and rod trust me, hows your compression on that motor.also what diff fluid do you guys think i should run. i already have a set of back up diffs but the gears aren't harded.i guess i will wait to exploid diffs, then change the gears.

-=ADA$=-

11-24-2002, 04:13 PM

good idea, and dont change them till stock's work, i think that shimmed properly should work preatty(SP) long time, and i would start with rather light fluid, cause of strong motor

Got Speed

11-24-2002, 04:40 PM

Originally posted by gaus
I run my MBX ULTRA with the stock engine, Hyper .21. I have been running the cr@p out of this car, and lately in the snow. I think I've gone though about 5 gallons of fuel. What is anyone's guess as to what will go wrong with the engine first and what do I need to have on hand to perform repairs?

gaus

Dang, lol, my Hyper .21 is losing compression really fast. Ive heard it is a hit or miss kind of thing with the Hyper .21.

gaus

11-24-2002, 11:11 PM

I will admit that the engine has been run pretty rich, but the car performs great. Mostly running with short burst of speed, a turn around, lots of jumps. I have had no problem with coldness due to snow or anything. It handles good on the icy roads too. (The OFNA MBX ULTRA, that is.)

gaus

KOLOR KRAFT

11-26-2002, 12:06 PM

WOW DECIDED TO BRAKE IT IN LAST NIGHT,after running 6 tanks real slow and easy i juiced it a little and never seen sparks fly out of the front diff like that, rb s7 completely blow the front diff gears so thay look like flat washers now. awsome amount of power. have to get the hardend ones for sure before i try that again. the boys at the track better watch out how for sure if i can keep it together...................

spenzalii

11-26-2002, 10:23 PM

Here's a question for you. I was looking in RC Car, and they had a ProTech nitro rally car. Now I know ProTech sells a similar chasis that Ofna imports (check the Nitro OB4, and the now discontinued OB4 International). Anywho, I wondered if anyone had tried converting a MBX into a rally car. I fugured they lowered the shocks and made it an on road car, why not make a few mods and have a rally car. Come to think of it, the ProTech looked a lot like the MBX. Any thoughts? Or could it be done?