View Full Version : Tamiya lunchbox
goldtj
06-21-2002, 11:29 AM
I was just wondering if anyone here runs a tamiya lunchbox or the chassis with one of the other shells on it?
I am thinking about putting on an extra rear assembly to make it have 6 wheels and 4WD. Neone got any tips on how to start that?
Also my truck seems to suffer from chronic understeer whenever the smallest amount of power is applied and i only run a 540 stock with an 1800 pack. R there any fixes for this?
Thanks
Possumbot
06-22-2002, 04:08 PM
wasn't the lunchbox the same chassis as the blackfoot?
r.c.dealer
06-23-2002, 12:03 AM
Nope, the Lunchbox shared the same chassis with the Midnight Pumpkin. It also shared front and rear suspension with the Hornet and Grasshopper.
r.c.dealer
06-23-2002, 12:13 AM
Heres a picture of a Tamiya Lunch Box from a Tamiya catalogue
goldtj
06-24-2002, 06:11 AM
yeah thats the one. ne one know how to fix that understeer?
fiat22turbo
07-03-2002, 09:10 PM
Better tires? Better shocks? Adding some negative camber to the front tires so they are flatter in the turns. also are you running an Electronic Speed Contorl or the original mechanical speed control?
Good luck.
-Stefan->
goldtj
07-05-2002, 03:48 AM
Because of the way the top of the shocks are mounted it is almost impossible to fit different ones. Im running a combined reciver and esc pack.
fiat22turbo
07-05-2002, 04:17 PM
Have you tried adjusting the front suspension so the front tires lean inwards slightly at rest? This is negative camber and will help keep the surface of the tire flat when cornering. Be sure to get it even on both sides and don't go too crazy, 1-2 degrees should be plenty.
You could also set the tires up for a slight bit of toe-out up front and toe-in in the rear (if possible) The Toe settings are set with the steering arms. Toe-out is when the front of the tires are pointed away from each other, toe-in is the opposite. Again don't over do it, 1-2 degrees will make a difference any more and it will be hard to control and your run times will go to hell. BTW, you will end up with some toe-out up front when you adjust the upper links for some camber.
Visit your local library and look for books by Carroll Smith (tune to win, engineering win, etc) and look for a book by Fred Puhn called how to make your car handle. They pertain to full size cars, but it will translate to the scale cars just fine.
Good luck,
-Stefan->
Hope this helps,
Stefan
goldtj
07-06-2002, 04:36 PM
The shocks on this thing are none adjustable but im thinking of replacing them with some coil over oil shocks. (these r spring only at da mo!). Thanks neway. Ne one got ne idea how to fix a steel square section tube to the back chassis top plate?
Jimmy33
07-08-2002, 07:56 AM
Dude you done the extension yet - get some JP 93mm shocks to help the handling just fitten them to my stadium raider dam it handles well. Also get adjustable turnbuckles for the steering and camberlangles and that shoudl help the understeer!
Dude I want to race that when its finnished!
goldtj
07-10-2002, 05:09 PM
Havent finished da chassis extension yet James cos i now dont have a means to weld the pieces together so im stuffed for da mo. Can u imagiane trying to fit those shocks to lunchbox! It would be nigh on impossible!
IHIOIBIBIIT
08-13-2002, 01:44 AM
the lunchbox was designed to wheelie whenever you yanked on the throttle, so most of the weight was positioned over the rear tires. that is one of the main reasons why it understeers. add some weight over the front wheels, and it should turn better. also, stronger steering servo perhaps?
goldtj
08-13-2002, 04:34 PM
Cheers 4 dat. I already tried that but when u but it in reverse the front scrapes along da ground even without da extra weight. The prob aint with the servo its the fact dat the front wheels dont grip when under power. Cheers neway
goldtj
09-02-2002, 05:27 PM
I tried changing camber angles, toe in + out etc but guess wot! It doesnt make ne difference at all!!!
Ne 1 got ne ideas how to cure this cos im fresh out?
twinsturbo
09-26-2002, 12:39 AM
A long while ago, Hobby Shack (now Hobby People), used to sell the Panda Racer which was basically the same design as the Grasshopper/Hornet, but with a front end that didn't have the drastic camber change when the suspension was compressed. The parts came in chrome plated plastic. I have them on my Hornet and they will fit the Lunchbox/Midnight Pumpkin. The trouble is finding them. They will make a very big difference along with some good shocks with soft springs and light oil. The fact that the wheelbase is so short with most of the weight in the back doesn't help either. Don't go to Hobby People and bug them. That car was discontinued a long time ago. Try Ebay, garage sales and swapmeets. The car had a black chassis, yellow wheels and shocks, and a white plastic body. The front suspension was of course chromed plastic. Good luck.
goldtj
09-26-2002, 05:54 AM
Thanks for that. Did they sell the Panda Racer in England by the way?
Are the shocks on the Panda Racer oil filled? I was thinking about putting an extra gearbox assembly on the back to make it 4wd with 6 wheels. Ne ideas on how to attach the chassis extension?
twinsturbo
09-26-2002, 11:30 PM
The Panda Racer was sold primarily by Hobby Shack. I think it was imported by Global Distributors. Correct me anyone if I'm wrong. I believe at the end of its popularity, Global started selling the Panda to smaller hobby shops and toy stores. I used to work at Play Co, down the street from a Hobby Shack and we sold a few of those Panda Racers at one time. That was quite a while ago. Anybody in San Diego remember Convoy St.? 3 hobby shops on the same street and all within a mile. Oh, the Panda didn't have oil shocks. They were just Blackfoot type shocks (no oil or O-rings). As far as the availability in England? I have no idea, sorry.
goldtj
11-17-2002, 04:55 PM
cheers neway.
holshotracer
02-11-2003, 07:16 PM
i have been tring to get my uncle to give me his lunch box. he even has another body in the box.
goldtj
02-12-2003, 07:49 AM
cool! lunchboxs are great to rag around. Mine now runs an 11 turn wiv a 2200 pack. It goes like sh1t off a shovel!! gd luck gettin ure uncle to give it to ya. Wot colour u gona paint it if u get it?
holshotracer
02-12-2003, 01:29 PM
the body that he runs on it is like the one on the box and i would keep the other one since it is still in the box not painted. it even has a Kyosho pistol grip radio that still works.
goldtj
02-12-2003, 03:29 PM
Has it got all the decals? and have u got silver or yellow rims?
Also do u notice the understeer problems wiv this truck?
ta03 tuner
04-13-2003, 02:29 AM
Hey I had a M pumpkin and to tell you the truth...there is no real cure for the understeering problem....Mine had full bearings, Tamiya CVA yellow oil shocks, and Monster Mash motor...I tried to hop it up to race with my cousins Clodbusters but under acceleration...the darn thing just wouldn't turn...even with super light oil up front...just wasn't made for steering I guess...I'd forget about oil shocks....won't help...I suggest you invest in a generation 2 or 3 blackfoot or even a sledgehammer...these trucks have improved suspensions....that's what I did...good luck!:)
munim
04-18-2003, 09:29 PM
Dude Lunchboxes and Midnight Pumpkins rock!
About your understeer, if you really want this baby to handle,**********Drumming********* You gotta get another car,LOL.The 'box just wasn't made to handle all too well, it's more of a fun and smiles kind of truck.However, if you really want to do something about it, you should get some oil shocks.The kit came with some U-shaped brackets(you probably don't have them though) so you can just screw on some aluminum "L" channel there and mount the shocks.Next, adjust ride high so the tires are flat when you drop the truck(not too high, just enough). Then try moving some of the weight in the truck towards the front like the ESC and reciever.That will help a little bit but not much.Now if you really want to get it into custom territory, try modding the chassis to move the battery forward a bit.That's about it but there's one more thing I did a while back, I bought a piece of round steel or iron stock and fixed it to the bumper, that increases traction too.Another thing, if you want a bit less wheelies, change the pinion to an 18t one from a grasshopper and such, you just have to change it and take off the plastic
adapter from the motor.
Anyways, that's about all I can tell you but if you wan't to get another truck instead of modding it, I'll be happy to take it off your hands!:p :)
minijosh
04-23-2003, 05:27 AM
go here and watch a cool tamiya racing video
http://movies.fastasfunk.co.uk/tcsnet_150.wmv
http://movies.fastasfunk.co.uk/tcsnet_340.wmv
http://movies.fastasfunk.co.uk/tcsnet_512.wmv
you pick one.
SARacer
05-30-2003, 08:38 AM
can the midnight pumpkin/lonchbox take any after market tires and rims?
cretin
12-09-2003, 03:56 PM
i have a pumpkin i have been working on off and on since late 97. i couldn't afford a clod at the time, so i got the pumpkin (only solid axle truck i could find). i am on my third try to make a capable vehicle out of it. it's pretty much unrecognizable to all but true fans of the trucks.
the rear end has all the extra material removed and a couple of extra holes drilled in it to mount a 4 link like a clod. i used a piece of fiberglass to connect the front suspension bulkheads. there is a piece of graphite from a ragged out RC10L used as a subframe connector between the front suspension and rear suspension mounts, across the top of the battery. i have two pieces of aluminum channel (same stuff as my clodzilla 2 chassis rails) used as upper rails and shock mounts. the wheelbase is extended to 1/10 proportions, to curb wheelies a bit and allow me to run a butchered 63 vette body. i'm running kyosho medium length oil shocks, monster beetle wheels with ribs and paddles, and a 16x2 with a novak 610hrv esc.
i'm not quite done with it yet, but i plan to be testing it soon
as to the question about wheel swapping, the lunchbox/pumpkin have the same wheel mounting pattern as a monster beetle/blackfoot. those wheels will fit, and so will the hpi monster truck wheels if you get the universal adapters.
anyone know where you can get a new lunch box body from?
mr_pushrod
10-01-2004, 05:19 PM
Try ebay but be prepared to pay silly amounts of money, they are getting pretty rare.
XJBUCK
10-10-2004, 08:21 PM
Goldtj,
I have had my box for 15 years. While I have added upgraded toys to the stable (Rustler, nitropede, E-maxx) I still love playing with the Box. I have duratrax short gold shocks all the way around. A Tamiya Technatune motor and GrassHopper 2 front A arms. To mount the shocks, I have small squared off U brackets, to allow normal shock mounting, bolted into the stock upper shock mount holes. The only time I see improvement in steering is when I mount ribbed tires on proline rims. I have a set with front ribs/rear spikes I used for our Sunday night racing on the ball fields at Hickam. I do not know if the rims are still available or not. Even with them, you still cannot turn very well with power on.
As someone else stated, for good handling, you just have to get a truck built for it. For play, however, the box (or pumpkin-have one of those too) is really hard to beat. Another awesome feature of the truck is that it is GREAT for getting kids into RC. Except for the body, all the other parts will be available as long as the Pumpkin is still being made. My kids love to play with them. They are bullit proof (with tame motors) yet still go plenty fast for kids to enjoy. I have a full set of Boca bearings in both trucks and except for periodic preventitive maintenance have not had to replace a part in the gearboxes as long as I can remember. I think the last time I had to replace a gear was back when Trinity first came out with the Speedwork 327 motor. Landed, power on, on pavement.
Forget about spending tons of $$ on the box. Just get some oil shocks, a decent stock motor, EPIC 3000mah NiMH bats ($19 each at tower) and HAVE FUN. With the 3000 mah Epic bats the truck runs a darn long time.
TRX250
03-13-2005, 10:23 AM
I have a LunchBox, It was givin to me in a Box with a few other RC cars, such as a Tamiya Tank and a couple Nikko Lobo's. Plus I got a small toolbox full of old RC Parts that I have no clue which vehicle they go to.
Heres some pics of the LunchBox. How much do you guys think its worth ?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v689/MustangPython00/Digitalcamerapictures038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v689/MustangPython00/Digitalcamerapictures037.jpg
jocktheglide165
05-15-2005, 10:08 AM
whoo hooo lunchbox getting re-released this year........
kurrz
05-15-2005, 10:34 AM
When is it coming? And is it revised in any way? I'm getting it either way I've always wanted one but, too expensive on the big auction for a shelf queen cant' wait.
alrighty
The lunchbox should be out about june or july, and cost about 109 sterling.
The grasshopper is being reissued as well. The lunchbox was my second ever rc and i cant wait to get my hands on one again.
"The Lunchbox Reissue
The Lunchbox is a logical reissue for Tamiya given the Midnight Pumpkin (which is the same except for the body) was in production until recently. Currently genuine original Lunchboxes new in the box sell for hundreds, so expect some minor changes to the sticker pack and expect a ESC in place of the MSC in the original kit."
kurrz
05-27-2005, 08:24 PM
Thanks I can't wait!
kurrz
05-27-2005, 08:36 PM
Also do you think it will be in production for awhile or a limited time?
prices are in. Available come august.
CONFIRMED PRICE
£80 KIT
£65 RAW*
£130 DEAL
*RAW denotes less speed controller
http://www.goldstarstockists.com/playtime/tamiya-pre-order.htm
cant wait
jocktheglide165
07-17-2005, 03:32 AM
just put 3 on back order at towerhobbies.com using the 30 dollars off coupoun on top of that cheap shipping only 7 bucks to ship.
Sttct
07-18-2005, 08:36 PM
? What $30 coupon? :eek:
jocktheglide165
07-18-2005, 09:36 PM
its on the website sorry, but you need to spend 299.90 dollars though still worth it in my opinion considering if you buy from a japan dealer on ebay for 90 dollars it cost you 40 dollars to ship it. in total I spend 299.90 and recieved the 30 dollars off coupon on site.
samaj
07-24-2005, 03:54 PM
I cant wait to get my hands on one.Is some one selling the kit...?How much
kurrz
07-24-2005, 05:07 PM
Tower has them up for backorder for only 94.99.
samaj
07-24-2005, 07:46 PM
I just went to the Tower website.The search for the Lunchbox didint show anything. How or where do u backorder...?
jocktheglide165
07-25-2005, 04:44 AM
I just went to the Tower website.The search for the Lunchbox didint show anything. How or where do u backorder...?
for them lunch box is two words not one I did that also so dont type: lunchbox type: lunch box
samaj
07-27-2005, 09:43 PM
Just backordered my kit today from Tower Hobbies.. What is the original yellow tamiya spray car reference number.Want to get it from the local hobby town USA.
Cheers
samaj
07-27-2005, 09:46 PM
Has anyone trying modifying the lunchbox......?
jocktheglide165
08-11-2005, 12:17 PM
my lunch boxes have shipped today from towerhobbies.com..........
4wdmt
08-13-2005, 03:35 AM
wow, $94.99 with ESC, not bad at all. Are these trucks durable? Is it worth bashing around? Thanks guys.
BloodClod
09-06-2005, 12:36 PM
Re-released Lunchbox... loads of fun. The guys at the weekend bash loved this vintage truck.
http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/bash20050904/lb05.jpg
http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/bash20050904/lb06.jpg
paint is --->Tamiya Spray Lacquer TS-16 Yellow
Has anyone trying modifying the lunchbox......?
The lunchbox has plastic bearings which can be changed for ball bearings
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Tamiya/Kit11
The servo saver is junk
obvious things- like better batteries and motor
If memory serves, i think (cant be to sure here) that the oil filled dampers from tamiyas monster beetle will fit.
http://classictamiyarc.com/images/tambeetle2.jpg
off the beer for a while to get the cash together to buy this thing
This was my first 'proper' rc car when i was a kid. great great fun
Anand
10-04-2005, 02:08 PM
i love your 'classic' lunchbox.
Here's a pic of my box (new re-release),
more pictures in this thread...
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=203244&page=3
Also, does anyone know where i might be able to get hold of that monster beetle shell, and if it would fit the lunchbox, with or without modifications?
cheers dudes
Got my box today. It is uber small. My 1/8 landmax is longer and nearly as wide as the lunchbox- box, if you follow. It seemed much, much, bigger when i was a kid
anyways
I dont think the beetle shell would fit properly. If memory serves its a 1/10 against a 1/12. The beetle shell is appreciably bigger. You could probably make it fit with some cunning, but in all probability, it would look a tad strange.
-I could be wrong
These are the peeps to ask about all things tamiya
http://www.tamiyaclub.com
Anand
10-06-2005, 01:32 PM
thanks for the help Mook
thanks for the help Mook
cheers!
I've have been in my attic trying to, hunt down bits of my original lunchbox and monster beetle. could'nt find much (beetle chassis, one beetle wheel, box tub chassis, two box wheels, half a box gearbox housing and a few other gubbins from a tamiya 959) I was looking for the shells, alas nay luck
Im building my box in a few months time, and i'll get some photos posted.
I dont know what colour scheme to use... the original yellow or something more exiting like getting the styrol body chromed.
mook
Legend_Car
10-10-2005, 11:23 AM
nice paint anand. i dont think i would chrome it that would look kinda tacky. reminds me of that all chrome mini-z
each to there own i suppose. I reckon chrome would be different. My 1/1 kit car is made of polished stainless steel. Its just like looking into a mirror and looks the business
If i can find my old lunchbox shell, i'll use that as a basher lid, and do something trick with the new unpainted lid
cheers
Karadjas
10-13-2005, 05:00 PM
Can someone please take some measurements for me?
I need the dimensions of the top "box" on the chassis and the wheelbase.
jimbo858
10-14-2005, 01:07 PM
okay, I've got an old box from ebay. now I'm trying to find some upgraded shocks for this thing. anyone got any ideas? I know that some prior posts mention using blackfoot/beetle shocks. those have different mounts?
Saito
10-25-2005, 06:39 PM
The original Lunch Box kit included adaptors to mount Tamiya's own C.V.A. yellow short shocks. These came on many kits standard including the Monster Beetle. I think they came in the pressed parts bag but I might be wrong (Its been nearly 20yrs). The adaptors were nothing more than "c"- shaped little brackets that bolted in the holes that the orignal friction shock's rods went through. They were basically the same as the shock mount brackets that are screwed into the front A-arms.
Saito
10-25-2005, 06:50 PM
Dimensions: (as best I can measure)
Wheelbase= 7 3/4" (axle to axle)
Top chassis width (from body mount to body mount)= 5 1/4"
Overall top of chassis length= 11 1/2"
Distance from front body mount to rear body mount (on same side)= 5'
Top chassis width at WIDEST point (rear of chassis behind original resistor mount)= 5 1/2"
hope this helps
jimbo858
10-25-2005, 06:54 PM
The original Lunch Box kit included adaptors to mount Tamiya's own C.V.A. yellow short shocks. These came on many kits standard including the Monster Beetle. I think they came in the pressed parts bag but I might be wrong (Its been nearly 20yrs). The adaptors were nothing more than "c"- shaped little brackets that bolted in the holes that the orignal friction shock's rods went through. They were basically the same as the shock mount brackets that are screwed into the front A-arms.
Yeah, I've been browsing throughout the day and found out pretty much the same thing. I found on www.towerhobbies.com that the re-release of the lunchbox says the same. I've also found a set online for like $14/2shocks. So, now might be a good time to buy a set for my box and a set for my Blackfoot.... :)
whats the process for painting the shell. The manual says to use ts16paint...
what about preping the shell and primer?
cheers
Saito
12-02-2005, 07:04 PM
You can use pretty much any model paint to shoot the shell. Just don't use polycarbonate (lexan) paint as it dries flat (since its meant to be sprayed inside lexan bodies). As for prep, its a good idea to give the shell a bath in mild detergent and warm water. This will remove any wax/grease/mold release films etc. so the paint will stick properly. I never primed any of my Tamiya Polystyrene bodies and they came out great anyway.
outfitter540
12-05-2005, 08:39 PM
i just ran my lunch box in the snow yestarday. thre was about 1/4 of really slick snow. 2ft drifting corners are fun. they are a blast outside!!!!!!
Im looking for metal body posts (what the body sits on),as the plastic ones are prone to failure.
They used to make them years back
anyone know where i can get some?
they are miles of fun, hopefully i'll get snow as well
AndyB
01-02-2006, 06:19 PM
I was just wondering if anyone here runs a tamiya lunchbox or the chassis with one of the other shells on it?
I am thinking about putting on an extra rear assembly to make it have 6 wheels and 4WD. Neone got any tips on how to start that?
Also my truck seems to suffer from chronic understeer whenever the smallest amount of power is applied and i only run a 540 stock with an 1800 pack. R there any fixes for this?
Thanks
A bit late I know but here are two of my 6 wheelers.
This one built from a Lunch Box and two I think Lexan Bolink Jeep bodies in the late 80's, (yes I'm old)
http://www.pbase.com/sarrana/image/31177398/medium.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/sarrana/image/31178182/medium.jpg
And this one I'm working on now.
http://www.pbase.com/sarrana/image/54312983.jpg
GT Freak
01-11-2006, 09:26 PM
where can i get a MP/LB at? towers says late jan...
dont know.a few of the online shops i use are saying sold out.
I've made a few mods to my box. I'll get photos posted when i can find the usb thing for the camera.
Fitted the third shock conversion as i bust the crappy springs within minutes. And I made an internal aerial as i was snapping aerials big time
wyattburp
01-17-2006, 09:00 PM
They're in stock on Tower Hobbies right now w/limited stock. I just ordered one....Ordered some bearings, shocks, a pro stock motor and a MX3-S radio for it too...
I briefly thought about how fun and/or frustrating it would be if I purchased a GTB 5.5 kit and plugged it in the 'Box :D Nothing but wheelies is all I could imagine...
heres a pic of my box
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/car4001.jpg
Heres a pic of the third shock conversion--wheelies nice and hard
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/car4003.jpg
Heres a pic of the internal aerial.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/car4002.jpg
jeepnhal
03-29-2006, 05:53 PM
newbie here and just wanted to show my lunchbox.ive had it since 1990 when i was 11.its been through so many changes and parts.theres not much left of the original parts.but ive driven it hard at least 3 times a week since ive had it give or take.it rides with me to work all the time so i can wheel it on jobsites on lunch.ive driven it on daytona beach to maine and lots of places in between and i love it,and its never let me down except for maybe 10 minutes till i fixed it.it has a (dated)1985 monster mash thats never been rebuilt(runs great)and a mechanical speed controller.it aint pretty but its my favorite.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/jeepnhal/miscpics014.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17/jeepnhal/miscpics015.jpg
i have some makeover plans for it so stay tuned,itll be good.
cfjan
03-29-2006, 09:03 PM
Just to share some pics of my Lunchbox (re-release)..
It was initially built w/ full ballbearing, 4 Tamiya oil shocks, Futaba high torque servo (124 in-oz, oh yes!), and a Futaba MC230CR (20T) ESC.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/LunchboxBuild017.jpg
Then added a carbon fiber chassis / strut tower brace.. (yes, they are rivited to the chassis.. STRONG..)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/STB3-8-06.jpg
Then a 3rd oil shock on the back with heavy weight oil. Right now, I took the spring off to soften the back end a little bit, as I just want the oil shock to take away that violent transmission shift. It seems to work better without the spring. (Or rear end becomes too stiff..) But whatever, that's not the point, this car is not meant to win race anyway! :)
First, rivit a bracket to the transmission for the shock:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox3-19-06001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox3-19-06002.jpg
It can wheelie:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox3-7-06014.jpg
It is currently using a HPI Saturn 20T motor to give it some more top speed (and still with no maintenance..)
It can jump:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox3-7-06018.jpg
Drive on ice / snow:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/LunchboxDrive3-5-06005.jpg
Hope you all enjoyed it!
FESTER2004
03-30-2006, 01:20 AM
jeepnhal- i am glad u still have your r/c after all these years.i wish i can take my r/c trucks to work but i got in trouble once tooo many times with them,lol
cfjan- your photos make me wanna go out n buy a lunchbox,i had a midnight pumpkin but i sold it i cant wait for the reissue metalic version of the pumpkin to come out.also awesome photogrophy with the photos!
cfjan
03-30-2006, 01:27 AM
cfjan- your photos make me wanna go out n buy a lunchbox,i had a midnight pumpkin but i sold it i cant wait for the reissue metalic version of the pumpkin to come out.also awesome photogrophy with the photos!
Thanks man, I appreciate your comment!
If you want a Lunchbox, you better get it before it is gone again! I think it is discontinued already, but most places still have them..
It is fun modifying it to make it your own.. it is no match for the buggies / stadium trucks nowadays, but it is a lot of fun! :)
jeepnhal
03-30-2006, 05:52 PM
fester-yeah i work on consruction sites alot so theres lots of dirt mounds and obstacles to have fun on.i am my own boss so i cant get yelled at :)also ive had lots of cars including gas and racers but i always go back to the box.its so reliable and fun.im trying to gather up another one or two cause i just cant get enogh of them and i want one waterproofed for snow and mud that i can just have fun with and not worry.
cfjan
03-30-2006, 05:54 PM
fester-yeah i work on consruction sites alot so theres lots of dirt mounds and obstacles to have fun on.i am my own boss so i cant get yelled at :)also ive had lots of cars including gas and racers but i always go back to the box.its so reliable and fun.im trying to gather up another one or two cause i just cant get enogh of them and i want one waterproofed for snow and mud that i can just have fun with and not worry.
Should be pretty easy to waterproof.. just get a LRP/Associated waterproof ESC ($48 at Tower) and balloon the receiver and you are ready to go!
jeepnhal
03-31-2006, 06:29 PM
Should be pretty easy to waterproof.. just get a LRP/Associated waterproof ESC ($48 at Tower) and balloon the receiver and you are ready to go!
ahhh,thanks for the advice,was not aware of that waterproof esc.im in the stoneage with rc(as if you cant tell by my truck).i will definitely look into that,thanks.one thing will run time be shorter with an esc?only cause i can go like 20 minutes on a 3300 pack and i like that.and with a monster mash motor i think thats good.just wondering.tia
cfjan
03-31-2006, 06:36 PM
ahhh,thanks for the advice,was not aware of that waterproof esc.im in the stoneage with rc(as if you cant tell by my truck).i will definitely look into that,thanks.one thing will run time be shorter with an esc?only cause i can go like 20 minutes on a 3300 pack and i like that.and with a monster mash motor i think thats good.just wondering.tia
Run time will INCREASE with an ESC.. (due how they work differently..) Basically, with your current mechanical setup, when you are not at full throttle, the energy is converted into heat (via the resistors), so you are wasting all your power.. w/ an ESC, it sends out pulses (with various spaces) to either slow or speed up your vehicle.. This is a MUCH better way to control your speed..
You will get longer run time w/ ESC!! It is a must do upgrade!
jeepnhal
03-31-2006, 06:47 PM
really?thats awesome,ok now i am definitely going that route.i cant wait,plus it gets kinda old constantly cleaning the mechanical so it works right.wow,i havent had an esc since the original rooster came out and that was on my pumpkin.thanks again
cfjan
03-31-2006, 07:43 PM
really?thats awesome,ok now i am definitely going that route.i cant wait,plus it gets kinda old constantly cleaning the mechanical so it works right.wow,i havent had an esc since the original rooster came out and that was on my pumpkin.thanks again
Yeah, definitely one of the best improvement that you can make.. and like I said, due to the difference on how they function, with ESC, you can have much better resolution, instead of just 3 steps.. (fast, medium, slow..) For ESC, you can have 100%, 98%, 76%, etc. Depends on how high the ESC's resolution is...
Good luck! Keep us posted!!
I also have a Wild Willy 2.. (I saw that you have one in your picture..) Is that correct?
hi folks
just been out beasting the box. The shell has cracked around the windscreen and will soon need replaced.
Anyone know where i can pick up a polycarbonate/ lexan shell for the box?
Or does anyone know of any other 1/12 shells that will fit?
Apply forward throttle and things happen(i.e you go forward). apply rear throttle and the wheels spin like crazy and you go back. I reversed the cables and reversed the tx. Now when applying the forward stick my box goes ape. Its night and day difference and reminds me of the old mechanicial lunchbox.
Problem is no breaking.
in other words, swap the polarity on the motor then reverse your tx. This thing goes proper, proper crazy.
cfjan
04-08-2006, 06:09 PM
Apply forward throttle and things happen(i.e you go forward). apply rear throttle and the wheels spin like crazy and you go back. I reversed the cables and reversed the tx. Now when applying the forward stick my box goes ape. Its night and day difference and reminds me of the old mechanicial lunchbox.
Problem is no breaking.
in other words, swap the polarity on the motor then reverse your tx. This thing goes proper, proper crazy.
Something wrong with the motor, maybe? Otherwise, it shouldn't be like that, right? (i.e., reverse is stronger than forward??)
Any idea why??
dont know. My first lunchbox with the mechanical speed control seemed much stronger. It would wheelie further & harder and seemed better.
I've just tried reversing the polarity again but cant detect any appreciable difference in performance.
I reckon i'll get rid of the teu 101 and fit a 19t with an uprated controller
EDIT
im also getting 20 ish minutes good run time with a 7.2 1700mah battery on a regular silver can
forgot i changed the batts :rolleyes: Thats why it was faster. My box still seems slow compared to the mechanical speed controller though
thundershot
04-11-2006, 05:52 AM
Are there any differences with the re issue and old kit in design?
cfjan
04-11-2006, 06:13 PM
Are there any differences with the re issue and old kit in design?
The re-issue is identical to the original except the the TEU-101 ESC is included instead of a mechanical speed control...
cfjan
04-11-2006, 06:14 PM
forgot i changed the batts :rolleyes: Thats why it was faster. My box still seems slow compared to the mechanical speed controller though
That does not make too much sense!! The ESC should be more efficient. Unless your ESC is not setup right (i.e., it does not think you are at full throttle when you are..)
thundershot
04-11-2006, 11:52 PM
The re-issue is identical to the original except the the TEU-101 ESC is included instead of a mechanical speed control...
I see. Are bearings included as well as oil dampers?
cfjan
04-11-2006, 11:55 PM
I see. Are bearings included as well as oil dampers?
Nope, need to buy bearings separately.. oil dampers will be extra too.. you will need to get 4 of those... the kit does come with the brackets to mount those oil dampers, though...
Was out driving the box yesterday. I was poodling along when all four body mounts failed at exactly the same time and for no apparent reason (though there must have been one). They just broke.
Then i was doing some jumps of a set of 4 ft high steps. The hub sheared and the wheel went rolling away. I also managed to pancake the left rim which needs replacing as well.
Can anyone suggest some beefier wheels? Ideally i would like to keep the lunchbox rubber, im hoping to swap the wheels only.
Also how to reset the esc? It seems slower than my old msc lunchbox, of course my memory could be wrong
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture021.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture039.jpg
FESTER2004
04-13-2006, 10:17 PM
mook-towerhobbies.com has the replacement body for the box but with no chrome peices
mook-towerhobbies.com has the replacement body for the box but with no chrome peices
Hi fester thanks for the info. I've checked tower, but cant find the replacement shell. Im looking for a polycarbonate or lexan shell. The hard plastic shell is prone to failure. I think a lexan shell would last longer and be easier on the body mounts. Problem is, i cant find one!
thanks for the help!
Edit:
the plastics used by tamiya in the re- re are seemingly very poor. I just managed to break yet more components. I'll get photos posted tommorow when my camera is charged (or when photobucket is back up). I used to jump 20ft steps with the 'original' box and had NO problems
The last three times i have been out with the re- re i have broken something.
NOT happy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture041.jpg
apologies for post ho'ing
I bought an electric for bashing as it was 'cheaper' lol
I fixed my box using spare parts. But, just been out and broke my box again...
The suspension is proper, proper fecked. I've ripped the suspension apart and i have lost a spring. But I have a a spare somewhere...
I need about £50 for new spares and a new charger.
Not happy!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture048.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture044.jpg
cfjan
04-15-2006, 10:41 PM
Were you making huge jumps or did you hit something?! Usually Lunchbox is pretty reliable... !!
FESTER2004
04-16-2006, 12:42 AM
U can check on ebay, i see lexan aftermarket lunchbox bodies sometimes.would a regulaer 1/12th scale body fit on there?measure the width of the body n see if u can find anything close
Were you making huge jumps or did you hit something?! Usually Lunchbox is pretty reliable... !!
The steps are about 4ft high. I think the cobbles are what killed the box.
Heres a few pics
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture064.jpg
The box goes WOT of these steps
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture069.jpg
About five metres away is this...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/wombwarrior/Picture068.jpg
.....one day the box will go swimming
cfjan
04-24-2006, 02:42 PM
That didn't look so bad! But oh well, I guess if you landed funny, it will break something!
Good luck fixing it! Mine is still in 1 piece... :)
Hi cfjan. Thats what i thought.The steps look fairly civil and not likely to do much damage.
On three occasions i had sparks from the box when it bottomed out.
Apart from that, the landings have ripped my box apart. I used to jump steps at least twice that size. Thats my point, the plastics seem to fail very very easily.
I also jump without the body, and it flies good and lands proper...
If my box is wearing the body it jumps bad and nukes the body mounts.
cfjan
04-24-2006, 02:59 PM
Hope you all enoy it!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06014.jpg
cfjan
04-26-2006, 10:46 AM
Not really a Lunchbox, but oh well... :)
cfjan
04-26-2006, 10:47 AM
A TLT w/ Lunchbox tires (or rather, Wild Willy 2 rear wheel/tire)
cfjan
04-26-2006, 10:48 AM
Last one... !!
hi all.
nice pics cfjan, i was getting all worked up when i saw them, thinking it was some uber cool, box crawler conversion.
I have a problem. I have been invited to an MT bash. From what i can gather all the blokes there run nitro mt's. I dont want to turn up with my standard box and get laughed at.
What can i do to turn my box into a weapon?
cfjan
05-04-2006, 03:04 PM
hi all.
nice pics cfjan, i was getting all worked up when i saw them, thinking it was some uber cool, box crawler conversion.
I have a problem. I have been invited to an MT bash. From what i can gather all the blokes there run nitro mt's. I dont want to turn up with my standard box and get laughed at.
What can i do to turn my box into a weapon?
Don't think there's much you can do to turn a Lunchbox into a superb handling machine.. the shell (awesome looking) make it rather top heavy.. it also has a lot more weight on the back so when you apply throttle, you will have big time understeer (as the front wheels get light.. no traction..)
You can try to run oil shocks all around.. that would help handling a little bit.. also, if you really want some power, you can probably try one of them brushless motor / ESC combo.. that would make it really quick.. might be hard to control, though!
thanks man.
I changed the front castor camber on my box, but no handling gains could be appreciated. I used to have a monster beetle and put the shocks on my box--before they where fitted to another project.
Personally, i reckon the oil dampers are crap on a box. The box is way too light for oil dampers. I prefer the standard dampers. Besides why ruin a cool handling truck?
The box is 2 wheel drive, its not meant for screaming up cliff faces.
I reckon i need power. I have some money set aside for a pet snake.But forget hissing sid. Im thinking about a 10 turn motor with 14.4v.
the shell (awesome looking) make it rather top heavy..
Agreed. If your jumping then try taking the shell off. It jumps real good. Also you wont murder the body mounts!
Anyhow i'll get it sorted and let you know how it goes
thanks for the info.
thanks man.
I changed the front castor camber on my box, but no handling gains could be appreciated. I used to have a monster beetle and put the shocks on my box--before they where fitted to another project.
Personally, i reckon the oil dampers are crap on a box. The box is way too light for oil dampers. I prefer the standard dampers. Besides why ruin a cool handling truck?
The box is 2 wheel drive, its not meant for screaming up cliff faces.
I reckon i need power. I have some money set aside for a pet snake.But forget hissing sid. Im thinking about a 10 turn motor with 14.4v.
Agreed. If your jumping then try taking the shell off. It jumps real good. Also you wont murder the body mounts!
Anyhow i'll get it sorted and let you know how it goes
thanks for the info.
Heavy
im proper gutted. i just mashed my second lunchbox chassis. you know the ABS 'tub' job.
The first time the front right part of the chassis grenaded. This time the servo mount went 'boom' and i had no stearing. The steering servo was flapping in the wind
i need a new 'ABS' chassis. ---->well peeved
as i said earlier, the electric was meant to be cheaper than my nitro. not happy.
The box is costing a pretty penny.
thats the way it goes.
cfjan
05-31-2006, 05:36 PM
If you are having problem with the Lunchbox rear plastic drive hub breaking, Tamiya has released an aluminum adaptor to allow the Lunchbox to take regular hex type wheel.. it will never break again being aluminum!!
Check it out!
cfjan
06-21-2006, 09:53 AM
Some updated pics of my Lunchbox.. pretty mean looking, no?!
cfjan
06-21-2006, 09:54 AM
Front shot... (the oil shocks lowers the front end a little bit and it actually handles okay.. not too bad!)
cfjan
06-21-2006, 09:54 AM
The rear is slightly wider than stock due to the aluminum hex adaptor.. improve the handling? No idea.. but looks good!
theseeker411
06-22-2006, 12:47 AM
Do you have a part number for those hub adapters? Also, what kind of shocks are you using? Thanks.
Just bought a re-issue 'Box the other day. I can't wait to get the little guy put together!
cfjan
06-22-2006, 07:55 AM
Here's a link to those aluminum hex adaptor..
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_744_972&products_id=18599
The shocks are those recommended by Tamiya.. they are sort of "universal" oil shocks from Tamiya (the kit allow you to build them at various length to fit various type of vehicles)
You can get them at Tower Hobbies, etc. Fairly common.. came with 2 set of springs, harder and softer..
Hope this helped!!
theseeker411
06-22-2006, 09:36 AM
Thanks dude!
cfjan
06-22-2006, 10:21 AM
No problem! Yeah, with the aluminum hex adaptor, you can run pretty much all the 2.2" wheel out on the market that uses 12mm hex (very common) and you no longer have to worry about the hub breaking.. (I broke mine when tightening the wheel without the hub sitting perfectly flat..)
No more problem there! And it actually extends the rear track a little bit so I like the staggered setup (rear track = wider than the front)
I also use stiffer spring up front and soft spring on the rear and it actually handles okay.. (not a race buggy, but I don't flip it over much even on pavement!) The oil shock also lower the front a little bit (see the pic above) and that helps the handling too..
Will put the brushless motor in it when the package shows up tomorrow!
theseeker411
06-23-2006, 03:20 AM
Got my Lunchbox running this morning. Man, what a fun little truck! I need working headlights though. Late night test drives are really tough when you can't see where you're going.
cfjan
06-23-2006, 09:37 AM
Awesome, remember to post some pictures!!!
I added this to my Lunchbox last night..
cfjan
06-23-2006, 09:39 AM
And the Neo-One 1-Star motor to match the Sphere ESC...
cfjan
06-23-2006, 10:13 AM
Still need to figure out a way to mount the cooling fan and the power capacitor..
But basically the result is pure silliness.. I don't think when Tamiya invented Lunchbox in the 80s, they'd think one day the 'Box would be powered by some motor with 220 watts output.. :P (and this is a relatively tame brushless motor, not even those sensorless that run on many cells..)
Wild ride for sure.. I am not sure if I want to keep the system there.. might swap back the regular 540 motor as I think it is no less fun on a Lunchbox with a slow motor.. :P
theseeker411
06-23-2006, 03:23 PM
Has Parma released a lexan version of the 'Box lid? Cause I'd really hate messing up the stock one.
cfjan
06-23-2006, 03:25 PM
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNAV1&P=7
Not out at Tower yet.... still listed as "order pending"
theseeker411
06-24-2006, 02:20 AM
Ordered up a set of bearings today, next up will be oil shocks. I've got an Orion stock motor that will be in there shortly. Man, I just can't leave well enough alone.
cfjan
06-24-2006, 09:09 AM
Ordered up a set of bearings today, next up will be oil shocks. I've got an Orion stock motor that will be in there shortly. Man, I just can't leave well enough alone.
Nice.. post some pictures once you build up your 'Box!! :D
Superdood
06-24-2006, 07:16 PM
is it the same chassis as the mighty bull
theseeker411
06-25-2006, 01:34 AM
I put bearings and the Orion "The Edge" motor in the 'Box today. I can't even punch it from a stand still cause the front end pops up real fast and the truck wants to flip over. If I go from a roll then punch it the thing wheelies for a while. Now I just need new shocks :rolleyes: . Pics will be up soon.
cfjan
06-25-2006, 10:52 AM
I put bearings and the Orion "The Edge" motor in the 'Box today. I can't even punch it from a stand still cause the front end pops up real fast and the truck wants to flip over. If I go from a roll then punch it the thing wheelies for a while. Now I just need new shocks :rolleyes: . Pics will be up soon.
NICE.. looking forward to the pics!! How many turns are in that Orion motor? Sounds pretty strong!
My Sphere / Neo One 1-Star is like an equivalent of a strong 13T brushed motor, so I heard.. I am not sure!
theseeker411
06-26-2006, 01:15 AM
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a30/theseeker411/Lunchbox.jpg
I can't even go 3 days into owning this rig without screwing up the body, lol. The Orion "The Edge" motor is just a rebuildable 27 turn stocker. Makes for one fast Lunchbox :) .
cfjan
06-26-2006, 07:50 AM
Lunchbox is made to flip over, so no worry about scratching up the body!! That will happen a lot, esp. with your front suspension still way high.. if you lowered the front end (using shorter oil shocks), the handling will be much better.. (if you want to go that route, that it is..)
Good luck!!
cfjan
06-26-2006, 01:32 PM
is it the same chassis as the mighty bull
Lunchbox has the same chassis as the Midnight Pumpkin...
cfjan
07-05-2006, 01:15 PM
Some video of my Lunchbox w/ Sphere / Neo 1-Star:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1cSe6F-YJ8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLj6txgYyEg
maggo
07-23-2006, 02:50 AM
my Lunchbox
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000264.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000266.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000265.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000269.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000268.jpg
XXWoodmanXX
07-23-2006, 08:23 AM
Really diggin' that Hummer! What chassis is that? TA02? TB01?
maggo
07-23-2006, 08:37 AM
Really diggin' that Hummer! What chassis is that? TA02? TB01?
Its a so called TA-02B with longer wheelbase (280mm)
cfjan
07-23-2006, 10:32 PM
my Lunchbox
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000264.jpg
NICE, what kind of shocks are you using on the Lunchbox?!
maggo
07-24-2006, 04:46 AM
NICE, what kind of shocks are you using on the Lunchbox?!
http://www.conrad.de/goto.php?artikel=228164
cfjan
07-24-2006, 08:16 AM
That looks good.. wonder if they got that here in US or on eBay!
maggo
07-24-2006, 01:06 PM
Today we installed the Driftbox in my lunchbox.
The Driftbox is a GPS Datalogging system for taking laptimes, accelleration or velocity :D
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000291.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000295.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000294.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000292.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000293.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000290.jpg
http://www.my635.com/download/P1000296.jpg
cfjan
07-24-2006, 01:18 PM
Ha ha ha, NICE!! So what's the top speed recorded?! I wish I have a GPS to record top speed of my R/C!
Although your Driftbox looks kind of big, though! They need to make something smaller! :)
Looking good, nonetheless! Very cool!
maggo
07-24-2006, 01:25 PM
Ha ha ha, NICE!! So what's the top speed recorded?! I wish I have a GPS to record top speed of my R/C!
Top Speed was 28km/h.
I have additional weight because of the driftbox + accu
We had a gremlin in the electrical harness while testing my hummer.
If we have fixed this I will test the Driftbox again, the hummer and my TT01 DTM M3 with 17 turns engine
XXWoodmanXX
07-24-2006, 06:58 PM
Anyone know where I can pic up a wheelie bar? :)
zueslilbuddy
08-07-2006, 11:22 AM
rc nitro hobbies throu e-bay .09c and 1.95 shipping
zueslilbuddy
08-08-2006, 10:33 AM
I finally got my 18 tooth been waiting for ever BUT i want the tire turning wheelie popping power the 10 tooth offers anybody know where i can get the plastic adaptor that gets the motor away from the gearbox enough so i can use the 10 tooth. i dont have this part but do have the long 10 tooth needed. where can i get this or does anyone here have one they would part with.
cfjan
08-08-2006, 10:37 AM
How do you run the 18 tooth pinion w/ the Lunchbox??
cfjan
08-08-2006, 10:38 AM
For the motor adaptor, check here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGB38&P=Z
You might be able to get it for less at eBay...
Good luck!
zueslilbuddy
08-08-2006, 12:50 PM
Thanks cfjan is that the adaptor for the 540 i have a venom 13x2 motor on it not the tiny 380 that came with it.
to use the 18 tooth just lose the adaptor and mount the motor with shorter screws with the 18 tooth on it.
cfjan
08-08-2006, 12:57 PM
Thanks cfjan is that the adaptor for the 540 i have a venom 13x2 motor on it not the tiny 380 that came with it.
to use the 18 tooth just lose the adaptor and mount the motor with shorter screws with the 18 tooth on it.
Yeah, it is the stock adaptor.. (Lunchbox comes w/ 540 size motor... the only Tamiya kit (non-mini) that I know of that comes w/ a 380 is the Grasshopper..) So you are good to go!
I didn't know that the 18T would have the same diameter as the 10T pinion.. hmm... that's interesting!
zueslilbuddy
08-08-2006, 05:00 PM
well actually the 380 did come from my grasshopper was using it to tide me over but very slow and boring gotta get that adaptor for my 540
cfjan
08-08-2006, 05:02 PM
Good luck then!! The Lunchbox transmission will take whatever you can throw at it! I ran it with my brushless setup for awhile and no problem whatsoever! :D
XXWoodmanXX
08-08-2006, 07:18 PM
Really? I always thought those CVDs + boots were prone to breakage?
Or am I thinking Blackfoot/Midnight Pumpkin?
cfjan
08-08-2006, 07:58 PM
Lunchbox / Pumpkin does not use CVDs.. solid 5mm steel axles.. :)
bholio
08-08-2006, 09:24 PM
Here's my lunchbox. I built it about 2 years ago. Its an old one, not rerelease.. Still needs better rims/tires.. Put my Novak SS5800 in it once, just insane. Couldn't even get it up to full speed. Too unstable.
cfjan
08-08-2006, 09:39 PM
Those are some wild wheels/tires! What kind are they?!
Yeah, I know what you mean about insane.. I have my Sphere / Neo brushless in it for awhile... :)
zueslilbuddy
08-09-2006, 10:40 AM
cfjan i watched that video of your box that is some wild stuff. (Q).what setup did you use and how much it gonna cost me to do the same?
i know mine is midnight pumpkin so hope you dont gey upset it does have same chassis.just seems to be more going on here lol :D http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=2062929&postcount=32
love this thing its a blast and with the 18tooth pinion has killer top speed but want to find one of those adaptors fron the origanal kit so i can run the 10 tooth. the 18 tooth is fron traxxas part #3948 and can only be used if you remove that adaptor and hook motor direct. ANYBODY GOT ONE OF THOSE ADAPTORS THEY WANNA GET RID OF OR AN EXTRA NEED ONE BAD.
WANT THAT TORQUE and wheelie popping action
cfjan
08-09-2006, 10:48 AM
Yeah, you definitely want to use the 10T pinion or you'd overgear the brushless motor big time! With the 10T pinion, I was still doing like 30mph+.. (which was not really a good idea on a Lunchbox, ha ha! :D)
I had the Sphere / Neo 1-Star system in it.. (now I moved the system to my Dark Impact, as my Mamba Max 7700kv has not came in yet..) The Sphere / Neo combo cost me maybe around $200?
No mod needed on the tranny as they are strong.. just need to make sure that your pinion and the spur are lined up.. the tranny can take all the abuse that you can dish out! :)
zueslilbuddy
08-09-2006, 11:22 AM
im pushing close to 25mph with current(running a set of hpi street radials low profile) set up 13x2 venom motor, esc, 18tooth pinion but want to haul a wheelie lol
cfjan
08-09-2006, 11:28 AM
Yeah, 18T tooth, that's definitely gearing it too high... esp. for a 13T motor!! (you'd gonna burn something out, man! It is drawing too much current there..) Better be careful..
Definitely drop it to 10T pinion, and I bet you won't lose too much top speed either!! (Now the motor accelerates harder and get up to the top speed a lot quicker.. and battery last longer!)
Good luck!
zueslilbuddy
08-09-2006, 11:32 AM
Yeah, 18T tooth, that's definitely gearing it too high... esp. for a 13T motor!! (you'd gonna burn something out, man! It is drawing too much current there..) Better be careful..
Definitely drop it to 10T pinion, and I bet you won't lose too much top speed either!! (Now the motor accelerates harder and get up to the top speed a lot quicker.. and battery last longer!)
Good luck!
you wouldnt by chance have a spare one of those stock motor adaptors would you lol
and im getting like 5min from a charge on a 3300nHm 6cell
bholio
08-09-2006, 06:42 PM
Those are some wild wheels/tires! What kind are they?!
Yeah, I know what you mean about insane.. I have my Sphere / Neo brushless in it for awhile... :)
Rear tires are from a Marui Big Bear. Wheels are (I think) Tamiya Monster Beetle with the gold removed, but with some of the chrome remaining, then touched up with Alcad chrome. Front tires are some junk worn out buggy tires I jammed on there.
The crazy stance was achieved by removing a part up front where the suspension arms connect. The chassis itself can also accomodate the arms. The missing piece simply jacks up the front an inch or 2.
cfjan
08-09-2006, 06:53 PM
Got a close-up pic on the suspension pieces that you mentioned? Not quite sure what you mean.... it looks pretty aggressive this way! :cool:
bholio
08-09-2006, 08:14 PM
Got a close-up pic on the suspension pieces that you mentioned? Not quite sure what you mean.... it looks pretty aggressive this way! :cool:
Looking at the Lunchbox manual (the old one, not sure if the new one is the same), check out step 20 on page 10. You will see part D4 being attached to the frame. Just don't put that part on. The suspension arms will still fit into the main chassis without that part, but will be lower. You will need shorter shocks and you might need to reverse the steering servo too.
The chassis looks like it was designed for a different model, which never came out. In addition, the rear can be lowered (I think) by using Hornet or Grasshopper parts to mount the rear axle to the chassis. I haven't tried this however.
bholio
08-09-2006, 08:20 PM
The left is the modified Lunchbox, the right is stock Midnight Pumpkin.
bholio
08-09-2006, 08:22 PM
Final shot showing side view. Looks like I did the 3 shock mod on this one..
If you can find an alternative battery mounting spot, you could remove the battery tray and use lower mounts in the back and have a better handling car in theory.
zueslilbuddy
08-13-2006, 08:53 PM
so i can lower my lunchbox(pumpkin) and raise my grasshopper in thery
cfjan
08-13-2006, 08:59 PM
Looking at the Lunchbox manual (the old one, not sure if the new one is the same), check out step 20 on page 10. You will see part D4 being attached to the frame. Just don't put that part on. The suspension arms will still fit into the main chassis without that part, but will be lower. You will need shorter shocks and you might need to reverse the steering servo too.
The chassis looks like it was designed for a different model, which never came out. In addition, the rear can be lowered (I think) by using Hornet or Grasshopper parts to mount the rear axle to the chassis. I haven't tried this however.
Hmm.. I don't think there's anything adding to the chassis before mounting the arms on the one I got.. hmm.. strange.. (I got the new re-issue, so I wonder if they made any changes...)
Edit: Never mind, I got what you are saying now!! That's a way to lower it, never noticed that!! Neat!! Although I think a Lunchbox was never meant to handle.. ha ha! :D
BTE214
08-14-2006, 12:23 AM
I have a question for those of you with a parma shell and a 190mm touring car. Could you please post a pic with the body just jaid on your tc so i can actually see how it (almost) fits. I know it is narrower by like 10mm and shorter by about 30mm. If this is possible thanks.
theseeker411
08-14-2006, 01:04 AM
Um, dude, wrong forum.
cfjan
08-14-2006, 07:56 AM
Maybe he meant trying to mount the Parma Lunchbox lexan body on a touring car....
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 04:26 PM
Think i found something that will be of great intrest.Hope i dont get in trouble for posting a ebay add (its not mine) and hope they got a bunch of them cause i want this. From the looks will totally change the way a lunchbox/pumpkin will handle.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&item=260019844032&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
you gotta check this out you'll be shocked.
cfjan
08-14-2006, 04:33 PM
Love to see someone who got one of those installed on their 'Box!!
The problem though, is that those are vintage parts, no longer being produced.. so if you break one of the arms / links / etc., you are out of luck.. :mad:
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 05:16 PM
the guy sent me this one link to a pic supposed to be sending me more
http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/55/54598/lunchbox-1626.jpg
cfjan
08-14-2006, 05:19 PM
Hmm.. does not look too strong, eh? (seems like the suspension arm is too short so they have to have a long front shaft (the one that the wheel bearings ride on).. hmm...
Definitely post more pics when you get them! Thanks!
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 05:49 PM
i love kicking up dust
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 05:52 PM
Love to jump
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 05:55 PM
softer front springs and removed the little tubing stops
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 05:59 PM
Hard to drive and take pictures at the same time lol.
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 06:04 PM
still running my 18 tooth pinion but with these smaller tires it will still turn up the dirt. Still wont haul a wheely thou. started life as a lunchbox without a lot of parts its getting there. still want the lunchbox body thinking lexan thou.
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 06:44 PM
i have one of those front suspension kits coming and I will post pictures as soon as i get it in. and as far as i know the front uprites from the lunchbox are the ones used. The picture in the link was a pic from one of their customers, probably using nonlunchbox wheels with the narrower hub on them (just guessing).
cfjan
08-14-2006, 08:33 PM
Here's mine! (yeah, I know what it is like to try to take pic while driving, ha ha!! I had to try many times.. :D)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v513/cfjan/Lunchbox4-19-06018.jpg
zueslilbuddy
08-14-2006, 08:48 PM
cant wait till i can run my 10 tooth and my big tires lol
cfjan
08-14-2006, 08:52 PM
NICE! Remember to post some detailed pics once you got them!! I am very interested!! :rolleyes:
i have one of those front suspension kits coming and I will post pictures as soon as i get it in. and as far as i know the front uprites from the lunchbox are the ones used. The picture in the link was a pic from one of their customers, probably using nonlunchbox wheels with the narrower hub on them (just guessing).
zueslilbuddy
08-15-2006, 10:57 AM
you got it man nice pics of bashing that beast and the guy said that he has many of the suspension kits. the guy is a hobby shop that bought out a warehouse full of crp parts.
cfjan
08-15-2006, 11:03 AM
Hmm.. interesting, so maybe buy a couple as spare parts.. :rolleyes:
Anyway, post some pics once you got them.. I'd be interested to see what's that like!!
bholio
08-16-2006, 12:27 PM
I've been having a blast with my Lunchbox over the last few days. (I posted pics of it in this thread previously). The last time I drove it, it was still a rare (somewhat) collectable vintage car with a fragile, irreplacable body. So, I was very careful with it. Put my Novak brushless in and drove for a few minutes. Too fast. Scratched it up pretty quickly and stopped.
Now that it has been rereleased, I can get a new body, chrome and glass for about $30 at tower. Time for some fun.
I put my Novak SS5800 back in, along with a 3300 battery. Super out of control, but way fast. Easily flips over the wheelie bar with moderate throttle from standstill. High speed wheelies are possible, but sometimes result in huge, barrel roll crashes, which are painful to watch. I did spend a good amount of time restoring that body.
Big problem is that my rear springs are too stiff. Stiff enough that one of the rear shocks popped off, and it still drove straight and level, just on the strength of the 2 remaining shocks (I did the 3 shock mod).
I also need a much better wheelie bar. The original one is too short and narrow. I need to make something wider, with 2 wheels, and possibly damped with a shock to smooth things out. I might lower the back too, which should improve stablilty. Not sure there is anything I can do to make it turn better. Front wheels are not on the ground long enough for front end mods to work.
Has anyone tried doing a 4-link rear suspension, instead of the sliding-posts-in-a-slot thing? That might help out in the rear a little and give more ride height options. I also want to try smaller tires. I kinda like the Midnoght pumpkin in the latest issue of RCCA. Would like to make something like that.
cfjan
08-16-2006, 12:32 PM
What mods were done to the RCCA Pumpkin?!
bholio
08-16-2006, 01:26 PM
What mods were done to the RCCA Pumpkin?!
From memory. I might have some details wrong.
Basically, he built a drag racer out of it. 2 battery pack, novak dually ESC, low turn motor (12t-13t or something). Upgraded steel pinion.
Lowered the whole truck by using touring car shocks. Also looks like he did the same lowering mod that I did up front, but this was not mentioned in the text, so I could be wrong about that.
He locked up the rear suspension so it wouldn't go side to side. Also locked up the rear diff, again for drag racing. Used stadium blitzer wheels & standard 2.2 on-road tires because stock wheels are weird size.
Built a long wheelie bar to keep the truck from flipping all the way over.
Painted it yellow. Came out really nice. The pumpkin has a very nice, detailed body.
Might be pics on the RCCA website. It is the Sept 2006 issue, might still be in stores.
cfjan
08-17-2006, 10:34 AM
Thanks! That sounds like an interesting project! Although the question is, WHY?! :D But cool nonetheless!
zueslilbuddy
08-20-2006, 06:14 PM
is it a good idea to paint parts like the chassis ,rearend.or front end parts if so what type of rattle can paint is safe like would testors model spray or brush paints be ok :confused: :p
cfjan
08-20-2006, 07:05 PM
It should be okay, but might get scratched up pretty easily.. (esp. the rear end!) ;)
zueslilbuddy
08-20-2006, 07:08 PM
OK I'VE HEARD SOME PAINTS DO THINGS TO THE PLASTIC oops caps
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:10 PM
Got my parts today not quite finished but gonna post what i've done so far.
This i think will make a differance on how this thing handles.
The way i have found it working out the best is with the original shocks.
Now pushing down on front end front tires stay strieght insted of cocking off at an angle, and they dont fight each other on the way down.
A few mods are needed to make the kit work but im thinking its gonna be worth it. The guy gave me this set FREE :eek: for the pictures i'm posting(your seeing before he does)so he has some to show coustomers.So here goes there is a few so far like i said not quite finished yet.First one compairing old and new.Oh ya and their not shorter they are actually like 1/8th longer installed.
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:14 PM
Had to mod the included shock tower.
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:17 PM
Had to use original shocks. the guy sent complete kit including shocks but they are too short for the lunchbox.
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:20 PM
its coming together
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:28 PM
look in there see the toplink must mount it in there
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:31 PM
hour and a half later still not done lol :D
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:34 PM
it lowered the front about 3/4 of an inch
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 07:39 PM
just need to mount the top link block and leghten the tierods
cfjan
08-22-2006, 07:48 PM
Wa, thanks for posting the pics.. but what's with the camera?? :D
It is a very cool project for sure! I'd really like to see more clear pics so I can see exactly what's going on!!
Great job!
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 08:06 PM
its a cheap cam and the lighting was too much i'll get better pics when its done. the reflection off the granit table topp didnt help :. same cam i use for all my pics usually does great but like i said lighting
zueslilbuddy
08-22-2006, 08:23 PM
lol wanted to be post #200 :D
WAY TO GO LUNCHBOXERS
zueslilbuddy
08-23-2006, 06:50 PM
Ok finished the mod. it now turns on a dime. The tires staying flat on the ground makes a major differance i'm way impressed.
zueslilbuddy
08-23-2006, 07:05 PM
squating it down hard see front tires nice and level
zueslilbuddy
08-23-2006, 07:08 PM
still having a hard time getting a good pic
zueslilbuddy
08-23-2006, 07:18 PM
lowers the front end like 1/2 to 3/4 inch i'm gonna lift it back up with longer shocks just cause i like it lifted
cfjan
08-23-2006, 07:52 PM
Any permanent changes that you need to do to the chassis / suspension componenets?! i.e., if you break the now no-longer-in-production suspension, can you convert it back?
Looks good! Maybe I should get a couple of sets! :D
zueslilbuddy
08-23-2006, 09:48 PM
lol only chassis change is two holes for screws to hold in toplink but mods are required to the crp kit the shock towers need to be removed and put in upside down
and use original lunchbox shock set up. got it done today and steers awsome turns on a dime and and where it lowered the front doesnt roll any easyer as a mater of a fact if turning in the old turning radius it doesnt roll over like it used to
oh ya so to really answer your question yes can go back in like 10 min after install (took me 4 hours to put in mostly due to modding the crp kit to fit) i had to figure it out and i'll be here and let ya know the lil things needed to be done when you get yours.
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD (my sig. lol :D)
p.s. now i want a spare guess i gotta buy this one lol :eek:
bholio
08-25-2006, 05:42 PM
After seeing Zues' CRP upgrade, I started wondering if it was possible to come up with a similar mod using off the shelf stuff that you can buy today. Since I have a bunch of Traxxas cars and tons of parts, I started there.
I made a prototype on one side of my Lunchbox using a Rustler front arm, caster block and steering knuckle. The only part I needed to fabricate was a mount for the top arm. I just used a strip of flat metal and bent it and bolted it to the chassis. If I was going to to this for real, it would take a few more tries to get it the right size and not look like crap. Its good enough for a prototype.
To attach the lower a arm to the chassis, I cut the head off a long screw, then threaded it thru the Rustler arm so there was enough of the screw sticking out the other end to fit the 2 mounting points for the original arm. I then slipped some plastic rod over the ends of the rod to make it thicker and so it wouldn't eat away at the chassis. The Rustler arm is more solidly mounted than the original.
At this point, the suspension movement is very good. There is a slight camber change from full compression to full extension. However, this could be fixed by playing with the upper mount and making it a little higher or something. For now I used half of a Traxxas camber link as the top arm. This should be replaced with a short turnbuckle to make adjustments easier.
I don't really have the steering fully worked out. When I first lowered the front of the pumpkin, I had to move the steering servo to make it fit. This is causing some steering issues. All I need is some more steering links, ball studs and the time to play with it all.
This mod does lower the front, but not as much as it first seems. When off the ground, the mod side sits only a little lower than standard ride height, while the unmodded side hangs way, way down. This might be due to the old front end mod.
The disadvatage of this mod is that it does cost a more than Zues' CRP kit. Off the top of my head, you need Traxxas front arms, castor blocks, steering 'things', stub axles, turnbuckles and ends and some other stuff. You even need new front wheels because the Traxxas fronts use spinning axles which require 'rear' rims and hex drives. Most likely you could make stock Lunchbox rears fit. Maybe. I didn't try.
The advantage is that all of the required parts are in production, whereas the CRP kit is old stock from a long-gone company If you break part of the CRP kit, you are stuck. Traxxas is everywhere. The Rustler has been in production for 11 years and was just redesigned, so it will be around forever.
Anyway, I'm probably not going to finish this, just posting my findings in case someone with more time is interested in trying something new..
Pictures coming. Stay tuned.. Big thanks to Mr. Cow for helping with the pix.
bholio
08-25-2006, 05:49 PM
Here is a close up of the front in the air. You can see how far down the unmodded side hangs and the weird angle of the tire, while the modded side hangs somewhat straight. The upper link sould be a little shorter which would fix the bad camber on that side.
bholio
08-25-2006, 05:51 PM
Here you can see the screw going thru the Traxxas arm, and the white plastic on each end which fits into the chassis mouting points.
bholio
08-25-2006, 05:53 PM
Only slight change in camber at full compression.. I think if the upper link was mounted higher at the chassis side, this would go away. Or at least improve.
bholio
08-25-2006, 05:54 PM
On the ground, looks almost level.
cfjan
08-25-2006, 06:07 PM
Nothing wrong with camber change at compression.. sometimes, that's preferred.. (so when you are turning, you get more contact area when you corner..!!)
Good job on the project! I am thinking if I should do something similar, just get some parts and mod the car myself!! :D Thanks for the inspiration! :D
Oh yeah, looks like you are running brushless setup on yours as well.. nice! :cool:
zueslilbuddy
08-25-2006, 08:26 PM
glad i inspired you. finish it up and do an actual road test im curiouse as to how well it handles. the crp kit i know is out of production but was told an uncounted amount is avaliable. i have done an actual road test and it is a totaly different handling truck and looks very close to the original (not bashing your setup at all great work).
i'm getting a few more of the crp kits just to have a few extra parts incase the unmentionable happens and i need them. the biggest thing i like about the crp is the fact it only required me to only drill 2 small holes in the chassis to make it fit and of corse the moding the crp kit its self. once again great work wish i still had my traxxas hawk now lol.
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD :D
zueslilbuddy
08-25-2006, 08:37 PM
damn i want a brushless system i will have one oh yes i will lol
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD :D
zueslilbuddy
08-29-2006, 06:26 PM
the guy (hobby shop) that sent me the front end kit just came up with this. :p
he's hoping to be able to put together a few of these kits for sale soon i hope :D
dual shock kits :eek:
what other ways can this be done these kits are also CRP (outdated and very few avil.)
Tamiya84
08-29-2006, 08:36 PM
Heres my old LB i miss it :( i always thought the pink and black mad it 1 of a kind :)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF0368.jpg
and theres the nib Pumpkin body i picked up for 8 bucks at the LHS :( i miss it all..
cfjan
08-29-2006, 09:08 PM
Where are they now?!?!
Tamiya84
08-30-2006, 03:27 PM
haha all sold :( thats not bad i can post pics on here which would make u jealous of that table
jimbo858
08-30-2006, 04:03 PM
zeus can you please put better pics up? specifically of how you have the modded shock tower mounted. I tried puttin mine in and ended up with some lunsford links that don't really do the trick. too much play. your help would be much appreciated. thank you.
zueslilbuddy
08-30-2006, 05:33 PM
ok hope this picture and a little explanation helps
1. cut where it shows in picture on the shock mount
2. shorten 2 of the 3 screws that attach the shock tower to the mounting block
3. attach the shock tower to the mounting block upside down with the 2 shorter screws in the outer holes
4. on the botom of the mounting block shave off the risen places where the screw holes are
5. with a small drill bit that drill the 2 holes on mounting block that dont go all the way throu all the way throu
6. flip your lunchbox upsidedown with no front suspension
7. set mounting block with shock tower facing toward rear of truck place it as centered as possable
8. take same drill bit and put it in one of the two holes drilled throu in the mounting block and drill small hole throu chassis
9.attach the mounting block with one screw
10. drill other hole and put in screw
ok that will get you a top link in for your upper control arm
use the adjustable eccentric bushings to be able to adjust the degree of pitch in front end
hope this helps you out
zueslilbuddy
08-30-2006, 05:53 PM
hope this picture helps broke my d@mn the lower part of my shock luck i have a spare best pic i can get with my cam it doesnt do well up close
oh ya the upper control arm will fit a little tight at first a little white grease on them is recomended, and use your origanal shocks or shock upgrade not the shocks that come with the kit if you got the more expensive complete kit as they are way too short with the origanal shock it will lower front about 3/4 of an inch
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD :D
jimbo858
08-30-2006, 06:00 PM
aaahhh... yes, thank you so much that does help. the package I received along time ago never came with any instructions. I just have the bits and pieces.
zueslilbuddy
08-30-2006, 06:07 PM
oh that'll be $10.00 for the help lololol hahaha :D
bholio
08-30-2006, 07:43 PM
Heres my old LB i miss it :( i always thought the pink and black mad it 1 of a kind :)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF0368.jpg
and theres the nib Pumpkin body i picked up for 8 bucks at the LHS :( i miss it all..
Personally, I like the Rough Rider in the back, and what looks like another Rough Rider family chassis behind it.
Tamiya84
08-30-2006, 08:13 PM
Then you are going to like this these pics on that table of the years :)..
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/Image056.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/sss.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/bruser.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF0808.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF0782.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF1252.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF0817.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF0671a.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f214/Camaro454/DSCF0365.jpg
Tamiya84
08-30-2006, 08:14 PM
id say that table has saw some good days
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:43 PM
ok hope this picture and a little explanation helps...
Zues... Thank you so much for the help. I bought two kits off of ebay and neither kit came with any instructions on how the shock tower and base fit together and what screws go where. So, I had to kinda guess. Oh and yes, the arms were alittle tight. So, I CUT THEM. hahahaa... It should be all good. But, only time will tell. I'm still waiting for some new sorta low profile 2.2 tires that I'm gonna mount on an extra set of blackfoot rims I got. I'm hoping this will help me clear the front shocks. I'm also waiting on a new motor adapter plate. I'm hoping it gets here soon so that I can put the proper pinion in and at the same time resolder the motor plugs so that they don't rub against the tires/rims. Tight fit. Anyhow, those extra mettle turnbuckles were extra blackfoot parts I had. I got the idea from a nice fellow over at www.tamiyaclub.com. They help to stiffen the chassis a bit. I can't wait to bash this thing around again. Hopefully, this time I won't crash it into the sidewalk again. :o
Here's some pic's of what I've got so far....
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:46 PM
front right side
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:47 PM
top front
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:48 PM
left rear
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:49 PM
right rear
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:50 PM
rear
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:52 PM
from the top again!
jimbo858
09-01-2006, 12:54 PM
BTW, if some of the parts look weird... Well, that's because they're from my TL01B ripoff (aka, Bonzer or Cross Tiger). Thanks again for all the help!
cfjan
09-01-2006, 01:50 PM
Why are the springs compressed in the middle?! Did you glue them together to lower the ride height?!
Also, what's the reason for the tie rod on the rear shocks?! I can see the reason for the front strut tower brace.. (I got one.. I rivited to the chassis) But not sure about the rear shock mount to the body tie-rod...
Looks good, man!!
rear
zueslilbuddy
09-01-2006, 09:07 PM
Looks Good ..put Your Shocks IN The A ArmS Where They Belong And Tires Wont Hit :d
Tamiya84
09-03-2006, 10:38 AM
Goodjob on the front end mod
zueslilbuddy
09-04-2006, 06:49 PM
just added oil shocks to the front of mine, looks great now for a front stabilizer set up. :D
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD :D
zueslilbuddy
09-05-2006, 10:24 AM
ok loved the way front oil shocks,and lowering rear end worked out ....................but :mad: now rear tire lifts when cornering BAD like lifting an inch :eek: thats not good i dont like glueing my tires and will throw tire like 100 feet down the road if it gets to roll lol.......so this came to be....FRONT STABILIZER BAR ON MIDNIGHT PUMPKIN !!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS WAS KIT MADE FOR REAR OF KYOSHO ULTIMA :D WORKS EXELENT!!!!!! still lifting rear tire but like 1/4 inch now and mostly in hard turning and YES I SAID HARD TURNING I ALMOST HAD TO TRY TO FLIP IT :D MAKING FULL SPEED TURNS IS FREAKING ME OUT WITH THIS THING WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT TURNING A PUMPKIN AT FULL SPEER WITH A ESC AND A VENOM 13D MOTOR ON IT AND STILL THE 18 TOOTH IT FLYS ok ok here's the pictures
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD :D
cfjan
09-05-2006, 10:26 AM
That's pretty cool!! :D I like the sway bar setup!
zueslilbuddy
09-05-2006, 10:29 AM
you can still roll it with set up i have but if you know how to drive to start with you wont. i kinda was pushing stupid when i rolled it but you gotta kinda push things to test them rite
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD :D
zueslilbuddy
09-05-2006, 10:34 AM
oh ya with current set up at slow speed will turn a tighter corner than a 12 inch dinner plate. no joke i'll bet i can beat a vintage rc10 with no sweat road or dirt :eek: oh yes i said it :D
IF IT AINT BROKE THE BATTERYS BETTER BE DEAD :D
zueslilbuddy
09-05-2006, 11:20 AM
That's pretty cool!! :D I like the sway bar setup!
thanks its turning into a one of a kind i think will be copied :D
jimbo858
09-05-2006, 02:11 PM
Why are the springs compressed in the middle?! Did you glue them together to lower the ride height?!
Also, what's the reason for the tie rod on the rear shocks?! I can see the reason for the front strut tower brace.. (I got one.. I rivited to the chassis) But not sure about the rear shock mount to the body tie-rod...
Looks good, man!!
Sorry for the delay. been with the family all weekend. Anyhow, I got that idea from someone on another board. It stiffens the rear pan considerably. If you press down on the rear pan (where the shocks connect) on mine it flexes like crazy. With those bracing the pan it won't flex as much and lets the shocks do more work. seems to work good. Oh and like Zeus says... This way handles so much better! The tires are actually working now and not just grabbing and flipping the box when you corner it hard. hahahaha... It's soo weird. And mine still wheelies good. I had to switch back to an 18t pinion though from a stock 10t pinion. Cause it would just wheelie too hard. It would cause the box to flip up on it's back and just sit there. BUT, I did add ANOTHER brace to the wheelie bar (this time the short steering rod from the blackfoot) to brace the wheelie bar. Now the wheelies seem smoother and longer. It also keeps the wheelie bar from indenting into the gear box.
So, now my Box is a complete mix of parts from the Bonzer and Blackfoot! HAHAHAHAHA....
Oh if anyone wants a pick of the wheelie bar brace lemme know.
jimbo858
09-05-2006, 02:15 PM
Looks Good ..put Your Shocks IN The A ArmS Where They Belong And Tires Wont Hit :d
Zues... I rechecked everything and I found that at full lock the tires aren't rubbing up against the shock. It clears okay. They're rubbing sometimes against the lunchbox body. not much. just a bit if I'm bouncing it around. OH and I really like that Ultima swaybar mod. nice!
zueslilbuddy
09-05-2006, 03:40 PM
Sorry for the delay. been with the family all weekend. Anyhow, I got that idea from someone on another board. It stiffens the rear pan considerably. If you press down on the rear pan (where the shocks connect) on mine it flexes like crazy. With those bracing the pan it won't flex as much and lets the shocks do more work. seems to work good. Oh and like Zeus says... This way handles so much better! The tires are actually working now and not just grabbing and flipping the box when you corner it hard. hahahaha... It's soo weird. And mine still wheelies good. I had to switch back to an 18t pinion though from a stock 10t pinion. Cause it would just wheelie too hard. It would cause the box to flip up on it's back and just sit there. BUT, I did add ANOTHER brace to the wheelie bar (this time the short steering rod from the blackfoot) to brace the wheelie bar. Now the wheelies seem smoother and longer. It also keeps the wheelie bar from indenting into the gear box.
So, now my Box is a complete mix of parts from the Bonzer and Blackfoot! HAHAHAHAHA....
Oh if anyone wants a pick of the wheelie bar brace lemme know.
well ya i want to see it. and do you want to sell that adaptor to use the 10 tooth i need one? and a little bash :D thats all the blackfoot is good for is a doner lmao :eek: yes i said it :D
cfjan
09-05-2006, 03:45 PM
I am still not sure how your "rear pan" would be flexing.... maybe you can point out which part that's flexing to me..
Sorry for the delay. been with the family all weekend. Anyhow, I got that idea from someone on another board. It stiffens the rear pan considerably. If you press down on the rear pan (where the shocks connect) on mine it flexes like crazy. With those bracing the pan it won't flex as much and lets the shocks do more work. seems to work good. Oh and like Zeus says... This way handles so much better! The tires are actually working now and not just grabbing and flipping the box when you corner it hard. hahahaha... It's soo weird. And mine still wheelies good. I had to switch back to an 18t pinion though from a stock 10t pinion. Cause it would just wheelie too hard. It would cause the box to flip up on it's back and just sit there. BUT, I did add ANOTHER brace to the wheelie bar (this time the short steering rod from the blackfoot) to brace the wheelie bar. Now the wheelies seem smoother and longer. It also keeps the wheelie bar from indenting into the gear box.
So, now my Box is a complete mix of parts from the Bonzer and Blackfoot! HAHAHAHAHA....
Oh if anyone wants a pick of the wheelie bar brace lemme know.
jimbo858
09-05-2006, 04:07 PM
...thats all the blackfoot is good for is a doner lmao :eek: yes i said it :D
WHAT? THE HORROR! HOW DARE YOU! :eek:
I'm actually, more of a Blackfoot fan than a Lunchbox fan. But after adding all of these mods to my Lunchbox I'll need to revisit my old Blackfoot and give it a little freshening too...
OH and as for the adaptor plate. I actually JUST got it. My last one was destroyed when I hit the concrete sidewalk... I'm still debating which pinion to go with 10t or 18t? Now that the Box is so much more stable... I'm starting to want alittle more speed.
Oh and I'll get a pic of the wheelie bar later. When I was jumping my Box off of a ramp I noticed that when it landed on the wheelie bar it would make the wheelie bar hit the gearbox cause a couple of dents to start popping up on the gear case.
jimbo858
09-05-2006, 04:25 PM
I am still not sure how your "rear pan" would be flexing.... maybe you can point out which part that's flexing to me..
hhmm... I hope I can point this out alittle better. But, basically right before the rear deck. In one of my pic's, you'll see some velcro on it. That's the part I'm referring to. Right before it there's some reinforcement of the chassis. But, the flat rear upper portion where the rear shocks mount has no reinforcement. You can kinda make it out here in this picture. The rear deck where the shocks mount is basically a flat piece of plastic. Nothing tying it to the chassis for some reinforcement. So, if you push down on rear most part of the rear deck/pan you'll notice that it flexes. It wasn't really that noticeable to me until I added the extra reinforcement from the shock mounts to the chassis. ON that "other" board someone showed me that this was their solution to people breaking off that portion of the chassis.
jimbo858
09-05-2006, 04:33 PM
Why are the springs compressed in the middle?! Did you glue them together to lower the ride height?!
nope no glue. They are two separate sets of springs on each of the four shocks. They came that way. The top most springs are harder to compress and the lower springs are easier to compress. These came off of my Bonzer (the TL01B ripoff). I think they meant for these springs combined to have a progressive spring rate. BUT, the top most springs are so tough they act more as a spacer than a spring... I was going to try it with and without the top most springs. But, after the initial run I actually think they work pretty well just the way they are.
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.