Duratrax Maximum BX Buggy [Archive]

CTurbo

06-25-2002, 08:37 AM

I have a BX with extensive modifications. I have raced two times and finished 6th and 5th on a field of 30+ losis and GT's.
The BX in stock form isn't even capable of runing in our track.

must have:
ST turnbucles and dogbones (to increase width)
Shorter wheelbase for traction (reversing rear arms)
ST wheels
The best racing truck tires
Hard chassis
Heavier oil on back shocks (over 200wt)

good to have:
O.S. CV.15 engine
H.D. transmission
Relocate batteries to a custom rear bumper (easier said than done)

BX_BOY

06-25-2002, 08:55 AM

How much did alll this cost and is it worth the time and money??? also what is the first thing i should do to make my buggy stonger and better, and faster also.

CTurbo

06-26-2002, 07:37 AM

I got my BX very cheap. It is my first nitro. I have been in electrics since 1989 and have tons of spare parts so much of my modifications cost my nothing. If you have already the car and some mechanical know how you will be ok. It is good to see the look of the losi drivers when they are beat by a BX.
You should start by putting bearings and longer turnbucles and dogbones. Then progress as you wear and brake things. My finished product is stronger and more durable than the competition. Remember: This setup is for off road racing.
You can ask me of some specific procedure that you don't understand.

BX_BOY

06-26-2002, 09:02 AM

Why should you move the batts. to the back? and does it cost alot to make it wider and how much better is it wider? Also how is the .12 engine is there room for improvement of should i just scrap it and get a .15?

thanks for all your help,

Forest

CTurbo

06-26-2002, 09:13 PM

Use the .12 until it needs a rebuilt. The power is OK for off road and it wont last long under racing conditions (30 min. main).
To make it wider will bring you on par with stadium trucks, (improved cornering and stability on landings) so it is very important for being competitive. Use stock arms moving the pin in the hub carriers. The rear arms must be flipped to decrease the wheelbase (improving rear traction). By ST turnbucles and dogbones ($25-$35). Once the BX is wide, get the racing truck tires and wheels that suit YOUR track. I use Losi reptiles on back, directionals on front on HPI universal truck wheels. I have HPI NMT driveshafts as dogbones (avaliability and durability reasons). Associated turnbucles on upper arms (stronger but needs some trimming. I have raced with the batt. on front, (so it is not a necesity) but to hook all the .15 power I costume made a braket for a GT rear bumper.

BX_BOY

06-26-2002, 09:18 PM

Sounds nice do you have any pictures

Possumbot

06-26-2002, 09:48 PM

if u do all the truck mods 2 it, y not just buy the truck? i want the buggy, torq 16, and the 2 speed along with bearings and all the nessicary hopups.

CTurbo

06-27-2002, 07:22 AM

It will be cheaper to begin with the ST. The BX has some advantages also:
rear wing. (good downforce, a place to grab the car, rollover protection)
BX body (easy to refuel on pit stops, cooler engine, pull start and glow plug acces, it is different :D )
The 2 speed is useless in my track. I am back with the stock spur and the 2 speed is for sale (A real thrill for bashing or asphalt)
The .16 is more powerfull but the joy of R/C begins only with a powerfull and reliable engine (O.S.);)

Sorry: no pictures of my BX yet:(

BX_BOY

06-27-2002, 08:49 AM

has anyone ever herd of a boost bottle???
I just got my BX today it seems to be a nice solid buggy to start out with, what type of fule do you use? i have odonnel 10% is that a good fule???

CTurbo

06-28-2002, 09:50 AM

Forget boost bottles, invest in a pipe and header. I use the associated pipe.
I use 20% nitro as recomended in the O.S. manual:D

CTurbo

07-01-2002, 07:06 PM

During last race the past weekend I manage to get 2nd in the B main of the expert class. There were over 60 losi-GT amazed drivers on hand:D

yingying

08-07-2002, 03:55 PM

i have a bx and i have

duratrax tuned pipe and header (i tryed a dynamite pipe and header but the header hit the tire)
ball bearings at the wheels
dynamite turbo air filter
unaversal axles
fuel filter
rear alumimum arms
50wt shock oil in the rear

it a go a little faster than a t-maxx and will distroy it in a drag race but when i got the air filter i can't get the carb settings right so if i brake hard it stalls

BX_BOY

08-07-2002, 05:01 PM

i have the same problem with it stalling then i fixed it but now its back again, i got the bx thinking that it came with a .12 but insted it came with a .16! what to you have for a motor, also how well to the universals work are they better than stock and what do you think of the pipe?

yingying

08-08-2002, 12:27 PM

its alrite for the price and i live in canada so r dollar lower and it was $50 and the dynamite one was $120. Its u can see th speed bu make sure u mount it rite because i just but mine on and i was test it out for the first time and it fell off when i was driving itwas my fault

i think i have a .12 but i will check i don't know how much speed i got with all my mods but it goes like 30 mph i don't what stock speed is.

that problem get me so pissed of and i've spend like 4hours trying to fix it i'be only had it for just under a year i'm going to rebuild the engine but i'm going to get a txt-1 or a e-maxx i donno which thoi don't race so i'd pick the e-maxx over the bx i have a small track in my backyard because i live in the country and the bx isn't good in grass tall like over 4 inch

the only reason i got the axles is because i bent one on a rock so why not up grade. i don't kno if it did any thing because i put in an air filter and bearings

CTurbo

08-08-2002, 05:54 PM

If the compression is low when hot you should rebuilt the engine. It may be the reason why it stalls.

BX_BOY

08-08-2002, 11:08 PM

I have set the carb tons of different ways and i can rev it up good but when i start to give it full throttle it dies i have tried everything at least 2 times. what now????
i need help!

yingying

08-09-2002, 08:40 PM

i don't know whats wrong but i'd try to clean your air filter and see if your exhaust has any oily nitro in it

WoRlDwAr333

08-09-2002, 09:17 PM

I like my BX. But it could use a little more ground clearence, it's like a sled if it gets onto the grass. But its pretty good for your 1st nitro.

thatguy16

11-15-2002, 02:19 PM

I've done a lot to my BX and I think its a great buggy for the price, although I had a lot of problems with the Torq .12. The clearance is a little low but I bought new tires to raise it up.

I have:
TowerHobbies .15 engine
DuraTrax 2-Speed transmission kit
ProLine RoadRage Tires
Bearing Completer Set
MIP Stinger Tuned Side Mount Off-Road exhaust
Universal Dogbone Axles for MMT/MST
Custom 1/4 inch aluminum chassis
Steel Differential Bevel/Pinion Gears
Aluminum Counter Gear
DuraTrax Clean-Flow Fuel Filter
Max MT Wheels and Tires

After all this, my buggy is as durable as a rock and can keep up with my brother's StreetForce. I don't have a digital camera so I can't show any pics.
BTW, I was thinking about the Aluminum Steering Bellcranks to eliminate the loads of slop in the front steering. Has anyone used them? If so, how do they work?

It's nice knowing I'm not the only one who has a BX. :)

ST RACER

11-23-2002, 01:08 AM

I bought the bellcranks and put them on my max st. It made a big difference for my truck and it was worth what i payed. They are machined really well and don't have any bushings, all bearings so they should last a long time. They took all the slop away and made the servo quicker. If you've got the money, buy the bellcranks.

I have 2 questions about the 2-speed tranny for the bx, st,mt. did the gears strip easily and does the two-speed take away the slipper. I don't care that much about the slipper clutch but i just want to know. I bought the truck with the torq 16 so i've got the power.

CTurbo

11-27-2002, 07:39 AM

The 2-speed take away the slipper so plan on adding the aluminum idle gear and steel diff. internals if you dont have them.

ST RACER

11-29-2002, 05:38 PM

I think i have to get a new diff anyway. before i really thought about it, whenever i went over jumps i would keep on the gas so the truck would pick up speed quick after it landed. Now the spur gear can spin about a 1/4 turn before the wheels move. i took the transmission apart and i saw that the pinion gears(i think that's what there called) were worn down and bent at an angle.

supernitro_guy1

12-02-2002, 06:45 PM

my brother wants a BX for christmas (he doesnt know Im buying him a Street force gp) which one should I buy him? he likes rally and off-road kind of stuff but Im sure he would love that 50mph car, he has fast electric cars so experience is not a problem, what should I do, I want to buy the car that he would like the most, but which one? or the maximum ST?

ST RACER

12-03-2002, 06:22 PM

i say get the bx. When i got my first rccaraction magazine i wanted only to do offroad racing. on road doesn't seem the same at all. the cars go faster but it doesn't seem like it would be as difficult. jumping to me is way more exciting then 50mph. plus, the bx costs less then the st. and now they put a .16 in the bx. that's what i've got in my st and it seems like it's got easily enough power. the only thing that you will need to think about as extra stuff are bearings and a metal spur gear. the bushings wore down pretty quick and it took only a few weeks to strip the spur gear. that wasn't on a track though. anyway, 30mph for an offroad car feels like alot more then 50mph on an on-road car. you don't see nearly as much action at an onroad race compared to an off-road race. does your brother have an on-road car now or is it off-road. because i'd bet on it that if he has an off-road car, he would probably want another one.

Just my opinion.

supernitro_guy1

12-03-2002, 09:23 PM

he has on-road, TC3 and Ob-4 , bet since he likes rally and that kind of stuff I think you're right, the BX is the car for him, thanks alot.

ViperKid

12-05-2002, 05:28 PM

i have a street force and i am hoping to get a Bx soon. does the street force muffler and manifold fit the Bx? thanks;)

CTurbo

12-21-2002, 08:00 AM

That is the engine I use. With a 2-speed you will get all the speed you can get from a off roader. With that power you should get the steel diff. internals and the alum. idle gear. I know that engine is as fast as the nova cx-12 I have in my race truck. Maybe you can get some durability from your stock trans. if you loosen the slipper.

thatguy16

01-11-2003, 10:13 PM

ViperKid: The SFGP header looks like the MIP one I have. You have to increase the wheelbase by buying the ST/MT driveshafts (I would get the universals, big help) and ST/MT tie rods. On the hub carriers you will see another set of holes that allow you to move those out for the longer drive shafts.

...you never here many good reports on the Bx...
Amen to that. Then again, you never hear many good things about ANY DuraTrax R/C. Sad isn't it?

BTE214

02-07-2003, 06:21 PM

A proud day for the BX! I raced an E-MAXX and klled it! To add insult to injury he tried to run me over then flipped! Just had to tell someone.

CTurbo

02-07-2003, 07:34 PM

The bx can be a sleek drag racer. Just try a 2-speed to see what I mean.

ViperKid

02-08-2003, 05:41 PM

that sounds awesome! what were you running?

thatguy16

02-08-2003, 06:54 PM

I can kill my dad's T-Maxx in a race any day of the week. I zoom past as he chugs along at 30mph. (BTW, I'm not dissing a T-Maxx, they're nice trucks, so don't sue me!) Heck, I can keep up with my brother's Street Force, using the 2-Speed and the Tower .15 ABC engine. And I have yet to break any plastic parts, except for stripped gears.:D

ViperKid

02-08-2003, 07:15 PM

has anyone else had a problem with the stock air filter fitting? the one that came with mine doesn't even come close to fiting under the body. what happened to the ones in the pictures with the 90 degree elbow?

BTE214

02-08-2003, 10:17 PM

I run totally stock (for now). I didn't have the stock air filter for long. The foam fell out so i bought a better one.

Killboy

02-09-2003, 07:53 AM

ViperKid: I had the same problem. Appearantly Duratrax is now including a nicer air filter than the original...it's a basic cylinder foam instead of the open-sided "box" picutured in the manual. Problem is, they only give you a straight piece of connecting tube, and it puts the air filer about a half inch higher than the body.

I went to my LHS and found the same filter in a pack. The pack comes with a 90 degree elbow. You may try cutting the ends of the straight tube you got at 45 degree angles, facing each other. (hard to explain - ask if that's not clear) It will allow you to skick the tube on the engine at an angle, then put the filter on the tube at an angle. May be enough to fit under there. I sliced my tube in half trying to lower the filter before I thought about doing the angle thing. (lowering didn't work...wasn't enough) Or you could contact the place you bought it from or Duratrax and request an elbow...if you don't mind waiting. =(

Also, what crackhead came up with the idea of putting the pin-hole in the front mounting post sideways...right between the front suspension towers? I had to completely mangle a pin just to get it in there. Thinking of drilling a new hole front to back.

ViperKid

02-09-2003, 01:16 PM

thanks killboy, i'll just buy an elbow i don't feel like waiting.

i thought the same thing about the front body post, it just doesn't make since:rolleyes:

BTE214

02-11-2003, 07:30 PM

boken part count: 1
Well if inally broke a part going off a jump in cold weather. perfect timing too. Just a short time after 6 months. how many parts have you guys broke?

Blacken

02-11-2003, 10:01 PM

can i jump my bx and do some off roading with a two speed or will i strip the gears

megaman

02-12-2003, 02:10 AM

yeah, you can jump your bx with a 2 speed, i jump the heck outta my max st (basically same thing) with a 2 speed and have NO problems. just make sure you let go of the throttle in the air, so you dont land with the tires spinning, which could strip the gears. also make sure you have the proper gear mesh:rolleyes: , just in case.

ViperKid

02-12-2003, 03:40 PM

Rcracer, i haven't broke any parts yet:) i haven't even started my bx yet, and i've had it for 2 months

megaman

02-12-2003, 05:41 PM

Originally posted by ViperKid
Rcracer, i haven't broke any parts yet:) i haven't even started my bx yet, and i've had it for 2 months ... i dont think that counts...LOL:rolleyes:

BTE214

02-13-2003, 10:39 PM

Does anyone know why they don't make a bx pro? It would be pretty sweet having all those mods on it.

Killboy

02-13-2003, 11:16 PM

Originally posted by RCracer214
Does anyone know why they don't make a bx pro? It would be pretty sweet having all those mods on it.

I was wondering the same thing when I bought mine. I immediately bought all these extra parts like bearings and steel gears to replace the stock cheapies. Maybe that's their catch, they get more money out of you by making you purchase the upgrade seperately. ;)

I would like to see a version with the hub carriers attached at the wider mounting point with longer turnbuckles, (ST items) bearings, steel spur gear, tuned pipe, better rear tires, (stock rears excell at nothing except wear) and maybe the 2-speed tranny and O.S. 15cv-x. You'd have a racer out-the-box for $300.

CTurbo

02-14-2003, 05:41 PM

Dont use those rear tires. They limit all the fun. Nothing is more important in the setup than the tires.

BTE214

02-15-2003, 12:53 AM

how do you go about returning parts to duratrax? if there not under warrenty? just cracked my cooling head top fins about halfway i guess that's what i get jumping in the frigid wisconsin winter

Killboy

02-15-2003, 07:53 AM

Here are some pics from my recent conversion to ST drivetrain. Majah Mad Props to CTurbo for the idea/explanation.

This is the finished product:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/pec6ce2061396af7c1d1bba8df221e071/fca374cc.jpg

Looks like a little go kart eh?

In this shot you can see that the stance is now one foot wide. Stock is less than 9 inches.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/pb49ee2629881967a152df5d3d11d851f/fca374dd.jpg

Even with the stock wheels/tires, the stance is considerably improved:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/p6c44e966c262ec670891b51f4a0ebd5e/fca374d8.jpg

Again, to do this you'll need:

Two sets of ST Turnbuckles - $7 set
One set of ST Steering Rods - $8
One set of ST driveshafts - $9 for dogbones, $25 for CV

Optionally, the ST Wheels - $6 (white)
ST Tires - $9 (Duratrax brands)

I posted the whole album Here. (http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290668177) (didn't want to flood the forum with images)

The stock wing looked meager with the new meat, so I bolted it to the front bumber and snagged an old wing from my 1/8th scale buggy for the rear. I'm getting a new big wing for the rear, and painting the whole thing up in a new color scheme. I'll keep ya updated.

BTE214

02-17-2003, 04:04 PM

well im down for a while. My throttle got stuck. Has this ever happended to any one. my bateries are full anyway the front brace and servo saver are broke and chassis bent not to bad

Killboy

02-17-2003, 04:21 PM

That's odd...there should be a throttle return spring to pull the throttle closed if your car loses signal or power from the battery pack.

I took the new Widetrak out yesterday between floods and drove it in the soggy grass a bit. The paddles were hookin' up like the phone company and the car was doing wheelies over little humps and carrying it for several feet. :D

supernitro_guy1

02-17-2003, 08:42 PM

nice buggy.

Killboy

02-24-2003, 05:45 AM

Originally posted by supernitro_guy1
nice buggy.

Thanks...I guess. (not sure who that was directed to)

One more thing that is pretty much a necessary mod, and cheap, is to add some fuel tubing to the brake actuator rod. This will make your brakes more progressive, instead of just on and off. I used about 1/2 inch of tubing between the collar and the little loop that the rod runs through.

Why is there a compressing spring on the throttle rod? (collapses when you use the brakes)

Hey CTurbo, (or anyone else who is running the ST wheels) did you move your steering turnbuckles to the outer hole on the Wheel Hub (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXD427) ? I deduced that with the deeper ST wheels, the steering action is exaggerated, so leaving the steering turnbuckles attached to the inner mount point makes the buggy steer TOO sharply/quickly. Also, the extra leverage from the deep wheels makes it harder on the steering servo. Moving to the outer mounting point should reduce the leverage from the tires onto the servo.

Haven't had a chance to try it out yet...still flooding/snowing here in Tennessee!

CTurbo

02-24-2003, 07:36 AM

I left it on the stock location. If you move to the other possition it will have less steering.

MORTER MAN

04-30-2003, 11:03 PM

i was trhinking abought getting the bx but every one told be a associated GT would be better so i am getting that it looks better and it has a better moter

BTE214

05-02-2003, 08:23 PM

I have both. Yep the gt is better good choice.

777

05-04-2003, 02:35 PM

Maybe I missed it, but how can you get the two speed?

Thanks

BTE214

05-04-2003, 04:21 PM

Just go buy one. They say you can't use it on the torq. 12 but I heard someone on here say it worked fine.

777

05-05-2003, 07:58 PM

Maybe I missed this too, but what's the top speed?

thanks again

BTE214

05-06-2003, 04:23 PM

Stock around 30 mph.

truckerdirt

05-29-2003, 05:34 AM

i just bought one of these from a friend with the os 15. i have to replace the bulkhead, one suspension arm, and the pin for the arm. i'm not really plannin to race, i just wanted sumthin to bash around in, till i can get a monster truck! would upgrading to st suspension really make a difference if i'm not racing? he also gave me about 3/4 gallon fuel (1/2 gal byron's 20%, and 1/4 gal omega 15%) and a lot of other goodies (glow plug heater, extra servos, hitec hs-303 (2) and the bad torq 12 motor) i really feel like i stole most of it, since i only paid him $100!!!

truckerdirt

05-30-2003, 01:48 PM

update: i went to my lhs lst night, and they had the suspension arm and pin i needed for it, plus i got the bulkhead that was a special order and should have been picked up over a week ago, so they sold it to me, instead of holding it longer. i had to order a shock shaft, since i noticed that it was broken, but i also picked up 4 more complete shocks. they are actually the ones for the st. what's the trick to opening the shock body to add oil? i know how to get the spring off, and it looks like a lil plastic cap needs to come off, but does it just pull off or what?

megaman

05-30-2003, 02:57 PM

the plastic piece doesnt come off, you need to unscrew the metal cap on top. then fill.

truckerdirt

05-30-2003, 05:13 PM

aight, thanx. you're talking about right above the threaded part of the body, right?

nitromaddness

09-23-2003, 04:31 PM

Is There Any Thing Else I Need To Make My BX Mor Competive.
Here Is A List Of What I Added:

A Siro .12 Off-Road Engine.
Pro-Line Dirt Hogs( My Track Is very Loose)
Fliped The Rear Suspension Arms.
RPM Clawz All Around
Pro Line Edge Front Tires.
Getting The ST CV-Driveshafts.

Is There Any Thing Else I Need.
Now Power Is Definatly Not An Issue.
I've Place 1st In The A-MAIN Two Times In A Row just By Shear Power ThatSito Motor Makes.
Now That Gets Some Heads Turning.
Espically From The Associated And Losi Guys.

BTE214

09-24-2003, 09:22 PM

If you are racing i would get a faster/stronger steering servo and a tuned pipe. Also Bearings on all wheels.

nitromaddness

10-09-2003, 04:28 PM

Heres A Quick Way To Widen The Rear End On The Max BX:

1.Go Get The Max ST CV-Shafts From Your LHS.
2.Pull Out The Old Dogbones
3.Pull The Rear Turnbuckles Off.
4.Take Off The Rear Hub Carriers.
5.Now Put The Carrier Back On But Put Them On The Hole Towards The Car.
6.Turn The Turnbuckles On Both Ends So That They Are Just Engough To Keep Them From Falling Off.
7.Then Just Put The Assembly Back Toghter.
And There You Have It
The Rear End Is Now An About an inch longer

To Make The Front Wider.
Just Turn The Turnbuckles On Both Ends So That They Are Just Engough To Keep Them From Falling Off.
And MoveThe Hub Carrier Assemby Out Also.
And Then Make Adjustements To Stragiten Out The Front Wheels.
NOTE:The Rear Wheels Will Be At 1degree angle. But Can be dialed in to Zero Degress.

Have Any Questions
E-Mail Me At:
SmalltownRc@yahoo.com
And Make Sure To Check Ot My Website At:
www.freewebs.com/Smalltownrc

ST RACER

12-13-2003, 10:17 PM

what engines are all you guys using and what clutch bell. i want to be fast on the track and in the back yard, i don't have a bx, but i have an st, almost the same. i ordered an os cv-rx w/ 10 e carb, and 18 t clutch bell. do you guys think this was a good choice. oh yeah, and i'm not running the stock tires, proline edge's in the front and dirt hawgs in the rear. hooks up pretty good but it only has a torq 16. i can keep it under control so i think i could handle the new setup once it arrives but what are you guys that have hopped up your trucks using for gears and engines. i'm not reffering to the gears on the two speed i'm not interested in that.

sporkface

01-06-2004, 08:34 PM

I have a Maximum BX that I bought a two or three years ago. The included Torq 16 had agood run and is now completley dead. I bought a OS .15 CV-X for it that should do a good job.

The major problem I had with the old torq was that after about 10 minutes of use the engine would get so hot that fuel could not get into the engine no matter how many times I pressed that primer button. If in the rare chance that it did get to the engine the fuel would spring back. I would have to let the engine cool for a 15 minutes until it would work again. I have ran the car with the cover off and that doesn't help any.

Has anybody had this problem before? What did you do?

ST RACER

01-13-2004, 06:12 PM

run the truck a little richer is what i had to do. or atleast the low end needle. you lose some time off the line but every time you blip the throttle you get the engine not getting air so the engine cools down alot when all that fuel is pulled in from the higher rpm's still. you have to make sure not to just hold it all out for too long or this will happen all the time. i think in your case it's just too lean. this engine isn't the most powerful, and once i realized that i didn't expect it to and it has run much better. match the sound to the video they gave you. if you do that then you can run it forever. i ran for 50 mins like this once. my torq 16 is almost dead, i ordered an os .15 cv-rx. but now i have to wait untill spring to use it.

jasonw

02-05-2004, 02:40 PM

I got the BX the other day and I am verry impressed with it. Mine came RTR with the .18 in it. It has gobs of power. I have been bashing for years and this car with the .18 in it has more power than I can keep under control at full speeds. My only complains about the car are as folows.

1- 1 run after break in only 1 run offroad and 2 of the shocks already leak. My EPST had this same problem. Maybe duratrax should check this out.

2- Wing falls off every so often.

3- My gear mesh from the fatory was way to loos and the allen head screws striped trying to loosen them to set the mesh. I left it how is was and order another gear. If it in fact dose strip I will drill them out and replace them with philips head screws.

Thats about it. I was shocked the proline bow ties wore out so fast. They still have good tread but you can see the wear. My B3 ran all last year and the same tires have verry verry little wear on them. Dose anyone here have any suggestions to my gear problem? So far I love the car. The only other complain is geting wet sand in my face from 20 feet away when I hit the gas LOL:)