best electric RC for the money??

[jahdisp25]

Okay since i have learned it would not be wise to begin with a nitro powered car I think I will turn to the electric scene to start becuase I can always switch later on.

I have been looking at the duratrax evader ST (RTR) I can get it for $165

Also I have been looking at the Kyosho Alpha (RTR) for $145

Kyosho ultima racing sport (RTR) $145

Are there any other models i should be looking at or not?? I am really anxios to get a car and am planning on making a purchase tommorrow.

Thanks a lot

[Grease-Monkey]

Get the Evader RTR Ultimate Combo from http://www.towerhobbies.com[/URL] . That has worked well for me as my first car. The Stress Tech warranty is also been good to have. I would go with that. The combo has the Evader, charger, controller, battery (I got two) and ITS ALL ASSEMBLED!

[jahdisp25]

Hey grease monkey, how long have you had the evader? Is it pretty fast? Any problems to report?? On a scale from 1 to 10, ten being the best how do you rate it for the money??

[Zr2]

I take it your lookin for RTR??? Also I think Duratrax is comin out with stronger parts for the evader also and you cant go wrong with the free parts replacement policy.
-matt

[JonBoy]

DONT get the RTR Evader. Instead get the Prebuilt/wESC. Its $109 and then get the updated Futaba radio with 2 servos for $45. Thats getting you a extra servo and newer radio for $15 cheaper.

[TC3Racer]

actually its probably a better idea to go with RTR... it is literally RTR except for battery and radio and it comes with a neat little instructional video that helps... also, if your looking to spend a bit more... the AE T3 is about 200 on tower.

[JonBoy]

TC3 your right and wrong the RTR has a radio and I am pretty sure you get the Tape with the Prebuilt to. That make the Prebuilt a better buy. However you did make one BIG point the T3 RTR is only $199 now and it is worth the extra $$ to get the T3, but I dont think it comes with Bearings.

[sofast]

Originally posted by jahdisp25
Okay since i have learned it would not be wise to begin with a nitro powered car I think I will turn to the electric scene to start becuase I can always switch later on.




Can someone please tell me why you should start out in electric? I mean.. You posted saying you wanted a nitro then 2 people say to get electric, now you want an electric.......

Not much from elecrics pass over to nitro anyway, so why is it wise to start in electric? It is NOT as hard as some people make it out to be!! There is nothing wrong with nitro. People say the are Messy, and hard to tune? Messy not really.... hard to tune? not really... Follow the directions on it, and you will have no problems!

Ive been into Nitro and electric..... Prefer nitro... The only electric i have now is being converted to nitro lol.....

Sofast

[Usagi]

Originally posted by sofast




Can someone please tell me why you should start out in electric? I mean.. You posted saying you wanted a nitro then 2 people say to get electric, now you want an electric.......

Not much from elecrics pass over to nitro anyway, so why is it wise to start in electric? It is NOT as hard as some people make it out to be!! There is nothing wrong with nitro. People say the are Messy, and hard to tune? Messy not really.... hard to tune? not really... Follow the directions on it, and you will have no problems!

Ive been into Nitro and electric..... Prefer nitro... The only electric i have now is being converted to nitro lol.....

Sofast
Electric or nitro whatever!
Problem is people just don`t understand the the difference. There is little difference between starting with electric. Both has its good points and why should`nt either it be their first car. Look at what HPI has done to the nitro market. You call that helping or hurting the nitro newbie! It all depends on the maker of the car. How well they stand by their product and do the offer good helpful after care(and I am not talking about HPI screwed up web page and boards its a joke over there.) Just make sure you can live with the after care service.

[Grease-Monkey]

From 1 yo 10, I give the Evader a 10. For a newby (like myself) it is awsome. I had to roll it a good hundred or so times befor a mark even appeared on the top. I heard it goes somewhere near 29mph. All I know in terms of speed is that I was driving it down the sidewalk and it was going faster than some cars. OK, maybe they were just slowing down to look, but still. They wont slow to less than 25. So all I can say is, I would buy the Evader if you want a car you can bash or race. You can also improve your Evader after a while. Any Losi 1/10 truck wheels will fit it. I have had the truck for two or so months and I am just starting to get better parts. I noticed the motor seems to get faster as it ages (kinda like wine, better with age).

[Plas]

I went out about 3 weeks ago and bought the Kyosho Ultima ST Sports RTR. Absolutely everything was in the box needed to make it run including a battery and charger.

So far, I've only blown one of the gears in the gear box after 3 weeks of absolute abuse! Luckily the gear is going to cost less than $2 to replace. Other than that, I've rolled, flipped, crashed and generally beaten the car numerous times and it has withstood that. I only blew the gear because I pushed the accelerator to max after coming off a big jump (Yes - it can jump a metre and a half, except you WILL scrape the buttom). The car is good fun to drive and I can't wait to hop it up to be race competitive.

Anyways, I would recommend going with what has better after-purchase service. I went Kyosho because my local hobby shop stocks mostly kyosho parts, so if anything breaks, they'll most likely have the part in the shop to replace there and then.
I would also recommend getting an ESC as it is a hundred times better than a mechanical one and results in longer run times. (Also extra batteries won't hurt).

[SnAtZeRpAzOoKa]

Ya know what? I would start with a nitro. I started with an electric and it is a real pain to keep charging the batts. You don't have to charge nitro;)

[WheelNut]

I dont really want to start one of these nitro vs. electric debates, but its true electric is easier. Much simpler than worrying about high, low needles, idle, changing those setting to suit the condidtion all the time. I personally dont like it. My dad just got a new CV-R, who now it might work good if it does the that woudl be great but I'll probably still come back to electric at the end of the day.

I would consider the T3 in any trim level, a very good truck! Highly durable, fast, etc... plus parts are very easy to find, almost any where. Even my cappy LHS has a few parts for it. The XXX-T is probably good to, but I have no personal expirence with them. I also have no personal expirence with the evader, but from duratrax vehicles I've see I wouldnt trust it....

BTW if you have spare time I would get a kit, you learn a lot about the mechanics of a RC car. This can help you a lot down the road. Not only that its kinda fun (for me at least).

[T9D]

The true answer to the nitro vs electric debate?

Nitro is what to do when the batteries are charging :P

[Izzy]

If I were you I would go with the Evader. For the money it is a great value as far as features and hop-ups go. I agree with grease monkey that it is a very good truck. In stock form it will only go about 21 MPH not 29, but for a stadium truck that's still a good clip. I would also suggest a rustler or stampede, possibly in kit form so you can get some experience with assembling one yourself and you can get some better radio gear than the traxxas stuff in the RTR versions. If you do go with the Stampede I would also get an extra pinion (small metal one) with a few less teeth on it, mabey one or two less, because I have found the stock gearing to be too high for the motor. This is one of a few minor complaints I have with the stampede, otherwise it is a great truck.

[jdm3849]

In RTR form the evader will beat a t3,the evader goes 21mph and the t3 goes only 18.The evader comes with bearings and the t3 comes with bushings. The evader comes with threaded aluminum shocks and the t3 comes with aluminum shocks with plastic caps,my friend bought the t3 and the oil comes out of the shocks really easily. The evader is also 40$ cheaper with the 10$ rebate on tower hobbies. That money difference can buy you a decent peak charger. Oh yea and go with the pre-built and get a real futaba radio with 2 servo's.Youll get an extra servo and you can also get some grease and other stuff for the same price as the rtr. BTW you dont need the video because you can ask all the questions right here. just follow the little yellow sheet and tighten up your differential and you'll be fine.

[jdm3849]

plas-not everything is included in that rtr. You still need "aa"s for the transmitter. I would start out with electric and if you dont like it get a nitro. I like electric for simplicity but nitro for power and smell.

And if you have rechargable batteries in your nitro cars reciever box you will need to recharge them so you do have to wait for batteries to charge. oh yea,you have to use some sort of starter system,and all the systems use batteries. glow-igniters,starter boxes,e-z start

[ProjectTwin]

Traxxas Stampede is a good first truck.

Durable as heck and comes with an electronic speed control

Jason

[PhsykoManMKAO]

the evader is a really good choice for entry level stock class racing... but if u arent gonna race and just want speed and cant-break-this kinda chassis get a king blackfoot

[R_C_hoodlum]

You can get the Team Losi XXX Spec truck or buggy for about $150 (truck) or $140 (buggy). It's not a RTR but you can get elctronics for pretty cheap if you shop around and plus It's great for backyard bashing and almost impossible not to find replacement parts for.