First time cub builder

[redrunner]

Looking for any Great ideas for not only types of glues for balsa wood. But types of plastic coatings for the covers.

But before covering there is Always something that could use a little modification to the planes.

Exp. One my GWS Zero. The landing gear wire is way toooo thin for taxi'n and the inevidable unsoft landing.

I am just looking for modifications with pictures if needed to the super Cub by Herr.

I hear that monocote is heavy for coverings....What are other options? Are there some tools other than a sharp exact-o knife set that I might need? Like an iron...etc? Other than an old iron for cloths... hmmmm. Might be too hot .

And am not too sure the abreiviations of glues that where dicussed in past threads.
One tip would be too apply a thin coat. Excessive amounts of glue is not as adhearing as thin ones.

What about glue accelerators? good brands for specific glues?
Not necissary but good for the people on the go.


Kind of alot here! But if you have one area that you have an expertice in. It would be nice to hear from you man.

[2NG]

****Looking for any Great ideas for not only types of glues for balsa wood. But types of plastic coatings for the covers. ***

First time? Let's get to the building first:) Let's leave the covering last, who knows, by the time your almost done, a LHS might have a sale, think of the money you'll save?:p

***I am just looking for modifications with pictures if needed to the super Cub by Herr. *** Herr makes Super Cub? Herr's got the classic Cub, and the classic breezy day parkflyer. Super Cub by herr?

***Are there some tools other than a sharp exact-o knife set that I might need? Like an iron...etc? Other than an old iron for cloths... hmmmm. Might be too hot . ***

Clear plastic plan cover (Check out Walmart of ordinary clear plastic)
Sanding block (my favorite) and sand paper.. Checkout manual for grits
CA and Accel.
Ruler
good size work bench
timer --- Just in case pass your bed time


***Other than an old iron for cloths*** not those:D

***And am not too sure the abreiviations of glues that where dicussed in past threads. ***

I buy just about any brand CA, but you should have at least two of them. The Thin and Med. gap filling. The thin is used for most well fitting parts and will wick into the wood for some distance (fingers beware) I use the gap filling where ever the thin won't work Motor mounts, landing gear mounts to install rudder and elev. and most places that plywood is used, thin won't work well on most Plywood's. And then the one I like the most KICKER you won't want to use it on the thin but on the Med. run a nice bead then hit with the kicker it's on forever. If you have two parts glue one with bead of med. CA spray kicker on other part put them together and instant part. Only buy the 1 ounce bottles of CA it's more than enough for the JOB. If you can pick up a bunch cheap put the unused in the freezer will last forever I am just now using up some that is 8 years old. But once open it has to be used

***Not necissary but good for the people on the go*** Slow down:D (Your first balsa project will not be as perfect if you rush)

My final note. Read the manual thoroughly, if you can, don't touch your Cub yet, if you can. Buy a Guillows 20" rubber airplane, balsa, comes in different models, and get you fingers wet. Just to get you warmed up:)

By doing so, along the way, you can picture as you go along of what tools is proper for balsa kit building. Take a note of what you think will be your set of tools, for if I tell you, you might not be using it in a long run, depending on how your project will turn out.

Mods. Check out my Herr 1/4A Piper J-3 Cub. Battery hatch and folded wing conversion in the photo section:)

Take care Bud,
2NG-genovia

[2NG]

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/oracover.htm --- best price in town, and light as well.

***But before covering there is Always something that could use a little modification to the planes***
mods. usually done after first stock flight, so you can determine what mods needed:)

I will be using monokote in mine, I like the shininess, lighting holes to keep weight down and motor (mega motors and HL GB mini Olympus) will compensate for the weight. I hope, I won't be adding too much on my HL Super Cub. Will see...

Glue. After learning from my Herr 1/2A Piper J-3 Cub. I will be using Elmer's glue, an advice given by someone who build Cubs before me:)

Your gonna do fine, Red. That's good ,your question are way advance and your looking ahead, thinking and asking for different ideas. Good Job:)

Herr Piper 1/2A J-3 Cub. Below:cool:

[468/f]

2NG,

That's a neat pic of a COOL Cub!

Good advice! I like to build with Elmers too. The brown and white stuff. I weighs almost nothing after the water leaves.

I don't think it goes as deep as CA, but if you look at major breaks, there is wood on the exposed glue, which indicates that it does penetrate the wood to some degree.

I use Q-Tips to apply the Elmers to the two pieces and then use them to wipe any excess from the assembly. I'm still not sure which I prefer. I know I do like the white for stick and tissue building. I thin the white with water and apply it to the frame edges to glue the tissue to it. It will even allow you to cover and overlap the tissue just like a plastic covering. Q-Tips are great!

[2NG]

***Q-Tips are great!***


468/f,

thanks for yet, again another info. You just know, when to jump in at a right time:) I ran out of Elmer's, substituted it with GP's wood glue white. The whole process is slow, but then again, that's the beauty of it. The art and science of the hobby:)

Ohhh!! Lost my 400EP again man. My friend flew it, I have seen him fly is airplanes with nice and cool thumbs of expertise, and manage to crash my 400EP. Pretty bad this time, 468/f:(

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=635374#post635374

No further ado. Here's my progress. Time 1hr, hehehe. I imagine the whole process if I have enough time:)

Hey Red,

How are you coming along? See ya! in the building topic, and take some pic's. I would love to get you along with my building, as well. (WOW!!! A newbie and already building, and a Cub too.)

468/f,

Have you talked to Doug, or is Doug B. really going to design a Mountain Model's Cub version?

[redrunner]

Hey 2NG!

I am still waiting for my Herr Piper J-3 35.25" to get here.
Will be checking in the mail for it on Friday the 5th.
(that is when it is to be here direct from the factory!!!!!)

I am not really sure what is coming in the hardware pack. And from there I will be purchasing what ever else I might need.
Damb I'm excited!

I've rounded up some shrink wrap from work, for free! :)
Might not be stout enough for windows... We'll see.

Already got the knives for cutting. (xacto )

Have the sandpaper to sand the outer edges and the excess glue, before covering.

Got the Elmers.

Now comes the "question area"

What should I power this beauty with? I have heard 400 is fine but not sure. And for the gear box?...... Basically the whole electronic set up is going to be new for me. (used to the pico set up with GWS)

The biggest ESC I have is a 5 amp.... And I know that that wont cut it with the larger power source.

I hear that a 10 amp ESC, with a 480 motor, and a 1100 mAh Battery (NiCd) will be ample juice!

Nowing that it is ALLLL about the juice...lol.
I need some suggestions on what motors will match up with the corrisponding ESC, Receiver, and Battery. With keeping in mind of weight (of course) I would like this biatch to run like a champ.

Kinda sick of the slow GWS cub.
Using a 270mAh NiCd, 280 motor, with a 1 amp ESC, 4P Receiver, and the upgraded 9X7 Prop for some speed.... But that isn't exactly cutting it now!!!!

One thing that I don't have to buy is the Transmitter....
:cool:

[2NG]

****I've rounded up some shrink wrap from work, for free! **** If you can get some for me, that's cool too, big enough for batteries.

COLOR=blue]***I am not really sure what is coming in the hardware pack. And from there I will be purchasing what ever else I might need. ***[/COLOR] It's a Herr, you should be fine, and Herr Cub is excellent for beginners and experienced alike, you'll like it. Building is fun. You can really feel your ship.

***Already got the knives for cutting. (xacto )

Have the sandpaper to sand the outer edges and the excess glue, before covering.

Got the Elmers. ***

Good start, that's all you need, and CA + accelerators, fine tips as well:)

***What should I power this beauty with? I have heard 400 is fine but not sure. And for the gear box?***
Go with 7.2 V 400 and then upgrade to 480 w/ 8 cell 600AE's
Power, brother, power:D GB. Mini Olympus 2:33. This is like the Super Cub, that I am working on right now. My setup are: 480 - 8/600AE's - 2:3 GB Hobby Lobby.

***The biggest ESC I have is a 5 amp.... And I know that that wont cut it with the larger power source. ***
Your gonna fry it:( Go with 10 up to 30 you should be good, for 400's

***I need some suggestions on what motors will match up with the corrisponding ESC, Receiver, and Battery. With keeping in mind of weight (of course) I would like this biatch to run like a champ. ***
Your ESC sucks:( change it. Hitec 555 or pico sub's servo's. Receiver, I would suggest Hitec look at the spec's in ServoCity.com or for $40 get FMA feather receiver, I heard lot's of positive reviews. I'm checking that out myself.

***I would like this biatch to run like a champ. ***
It's easy to run it. Flying it would be difficult, but you'll learn and appreciate J-3's. I love em'

What's a BIATCH? Don't forget my respect for J-3s MAN!!!:mad: Know the history for the Piper, J-3's help'd our men in service during the War... A true Champ.

***Kinda sick of the slow GWS cub.
Using a 270mAh NiCd, 280 motor, with a 1 amp ESC, 4P Receiver, and the upgraded 9X7 Prop for some speed.... But that isn't exactly cutting it now!!!! ***

Just keep it around, you'll get back to flying it, and still appreciate it, you'll see:)

***One thing that I don't have to buy is the Transmitter.... ***
What did you used in flying the GWS CUB.... ESP? hehehehe:p jk.
Get one's that is cheaper at first, remember this is an investment, you can sell it when you step up, and that will be 4 to 9 years from now, I still am using my Futuba Skyport 4 for 1yrs and 5 months to be exact. Get 4 channel radio, just in case. When you mastered elev/rudder ships... Aileronsssssss BABYYYY:D

[redrunner]

Biatch is slang for a female dog.... (take away the 'a'.)
Not really ment in a derogative manner.

2NG, what is your abbreviation after your battery pack 'AE'?


And the transmitter I already have. It seems to be a real responsive one. JR Quatro four channel. I like it. Plus got a deal on it at the LHS for $95 bucks!
:cool:

[redrunner]

One more thing 2NG.

What is a FMA Receiver?

[Dave Robelen]

Hi Redrunner,
I will jump in here. FMADirect is a company that builds some very nice R/C gear. Check out www.fmadirect.com to see a selection of the goodies. The new micro 5 channel dual conversion receiver is a really sweet deal.
Rgards, Dave

[redrunner]

Ok. Today I picked up a Graupner 400 speed 6 volt motor with direct drive. With that I picked up a GP c-20 mini ESC with BEC circuitry.(5-8cell,22amp max) And a Hitec flight pack coming with a 555 feather reciever and two sub servos!!!! The reciever is supposed to be almost as thin as a credit card! wow!
Also with those goodies I baught a bottle of Insta-cure+, an Easy-Touch Hand Sander and an up grade in wheels! Some foamies.
As for the Monokote I'm thinking on going to do the US ARMY replica. If 2NG would post it, he's got a picture of it. For all of us too see. (You have a top view too 2NG?)

[2NG]

Good starting point, Red...:) I like that, I can feel you eagerness. WOW!!! Just like me when I started my first J-3.

About the DD. see if you can find a GB that's 1.7 or 2.33 mini Olympus. You see DD can be at times sluggish, when it comes to Herr Cub. I know that the plans calls for DD drive, but the GB can give you more thrust and with throttle management you can better the flight time.

I like your flight pack, that's what I mostly used, how much was it? I you don't mind me asking.

Okay, about the grasshopper green. Man, I was gonna do this but then, but you can have the color scheme:)

For your decals. Use Avery adhesive transparent #8665 clear full sheet.

Here's the pic:

I'm almost done with my 4th Cub:D covered the fuse already.

[2NG]

Use somewhat dark green for a real scale like looking, US ARMY grasshopper:cool:

[redrunner]

Hey 2NG. Didn't you have a picture of a greyish cub?

[2NG]

I don't know where I put it, Red.:confused:

[redrunner]

2NG is the GB you're talking about an Olympus. Oly is the name of the company I take it. Do they have a web site?

[2NG]

***2NG is the GB you're talking about an Olympus. Oly is the name of the company I take it. Do they have a web site?***

Hobby Lobby is where you can get it, check your LHS they might have'em.

[redrunner]

I am having trouble hooking up my electronics guys....

Looking for some expierienced builders to help piece this last little bit into the cub.

I am running a narrow brand dual conversion, 5 channel reciever(HT Micro 555), to a ElectriFly C-20 Mini Hi Frequency ESC. The Flight pack has the reciever as explained as above with HS-81's(two). And as for the power I am running a GWS 7.2V 600mAh Battery with a Graupner 400 speed Motor.

As for the FP I am not too sure what I purchased.... Damb salesman...
The pack came with a battery that is for the reciever I guess...
As well as a "y" harness. Has an on and off switch on it.
Not real sure what the heck thats for.

Not to the point of hands up but need some advice.

I have purchased universal plugs to piece it together, hooked it all up and only thing that I am getting is the servo arms move once, the power light comes on on the ESC...

So I moved the plugs around on the reciever and nothing.
I am wondering if I am needing to hook up the 'reciever battery' to one of the ports on the reciever?????? And which one.
The instructions are weeeeaaaak.
Usually I have found that port one is for the motor, the servos are what ever you please----2,3, 4 for ailrons and for me 4 is ESC.


?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????

[468/f]

RR,

The ESC gets pluged into the channel number for the throttle.

I am running Hitec and the throttle channel is channel 3. Be sure to mind the polarity of the plug. Plug in the servos in 1 and 2 first, before the ESC is pluged in. That will show you which side the black lead is on. Plug the battery in last of all.

I like to have the motor also connected to the ESC so there is no chance of any kind of burnout. That way when you connect the battery, everything is on, or at lease ready to be on.

To say it another way, the first thing to do is to get the servos pluged into the receiver correctly. The lead from the ESC that goes to the receiver to operate the throttle must go in the correct channel number socket. Another lead goes to the motor. Finally, there is the lead with the female connector that the battery plugs into.

This is how the receiver is powered and runs the motor at the same time.

I will be away for a week, so you might get a note to David R for additional help.

468/f

[2NG]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=87404

[Dave Robelen]

Hi, You did not say what transmitter you are using. As mentioned, Hitech (and Futaba) use ch1 for ailerons(rudder) ch2 elevator, ch3 for ESC(throttle). JR uses a different channel arrangement with throttle on Ch 1, not sure about the other 2. The seperate battery and switch harness are meant for gas models. Be sure not to plug them in while the ESC is plugged in to the receiver, or the receiver will be damaged. There should be the one battery, amd that should be connected to the battery leads on the ESC. When you are doing bench tests connect the motor, but leave the prop off. Last check, be certain that the transmitter and receiver are on the same frequency, and that the receiver has a crystal in it.
regards, Dave

[redrunner]

Running a JR for a transmitter (Quatro) with matching crystals(43).
I will be charging up the battery tonight and am going to try to use your help hooking this bad boy up.:D

I did further read into the motor last night and found out that the motor is a Graupner 400 ((6 V...)) That might be a problem. The ESC reads 5 to 8 celled batteries but not in volts.... hummm. And a maximum current of 22 amps. ???

Is this motor too small voltage wise?

[redrunner]

I noticed that you servos are mounted on elevated balsa. Is there a CG problem with original installation? Looks real nice though. And putting the battery on the floor of the plane, does this help out balancing the plane?

[Dave Robelen]

Hi,
Is that Hitech 555 compatible with JR? I didn't realize they made a version that was. If the 555 is for Hitech/Futaba that would sure explain the problem.
Regards, Dave

[2NG]

***Graupner 400 ((6 V...)) That might be a problem. The ESC reads 5 to 8 celled batteries but not in volts.... hummm. And a maximum current of 22 amps. ??? ***

That shouldn't be a problem, get rid of that can, for starters. You should have bought 7.2 V, but you 6 V will work just fine, is it SD (standard), BB, or Race.

**Is this motor too small voltage wise?**

What is your experience in flying? Herr, recommends there airplanes and leaves room for lot's of modification in terms of motor upgrade in the future. I say, stay with what you have right now:) and step up from experience:)

***And putting the battery on the floor of the plane, does this help out balancing the plane?***

CG is determined balance, just as long as you can get a good CG then your good to go. You can build a battery floor, lay in on the floor, or have it sliding down, but all depends on the airplanes fuse length and width.

Follow your plans, rec. and modify once you get a hang of things.

[redrunner]

2NG, what do you mean get rid of the can?

I love to drink and wont put it down.... espesialy when I am flying!
Just think floating on air.... lol JK

[2NG]

***I love to drink and wont put it down.... espesialy when I am flying! ***

Hehehehe. LOL.. beef it up to a higher power. Your using 400 6V, Right? That's too weak, you can get 400 7.2V capable of higher cells, or rocket fly your Cub and use 480 race or BB:D

[redrunner]

You think that it will get off of the ground? And become flyable?

[2NG]

***You think that it will get off of the ground? And become flyable?***

How did you build this Cub? Did you follow per plan? If so, then you don't have a problem, the CG should be easy, if your are building a Cub for the first, then I'm sure that you have build before in the past, and this is just your first time building a Cub, or overall, this is your first time building, and this kit is your first kit.

The manual say it all, right down to the CG, Begee, geegee, all the the G's in the world... Of course it will fly:) ----Common sense, there is nothing common, than a common sense:(

[redrunner]

No such luck with the wireing.....

Need a suggestion from someone that has had problems with connections. Still to this day when I hook up the battery the servos move once and nothing else happens. I have tried hooking up the servos and ESC into different ports in the reciever and nothing. I even tried reversing the switches in the transmitter to get just the motor to turn.....

Something major is wrong. But hope not....
I could just be something that I didn't sodder correctly on the motor. Like the Diodes or something.

God darn-it I want to get this bird in the air before winter.... lol

[Dave Robelen]

It sure sounds like you have a transmitter on a frequency different from the receiver, or maybe a JR transmitter with a Hitech rec. These are not compatible and would act as you describe. One more thing you can check. If this is the only plane you have for this transmitter, you can check the transmitter with an FM broadcast radio. Turn the dial down to lower channels with the transmitter on and antenna extended. When you hit the frequency, you should hear a "brr" sound that changes as you move the sticks. If the trany works, and is matched to the receiver, it sounds like a defective receiver.
Good luck, Dave

[redrunner]

Thanks Dave.

I'll have to try out the transmitter thing with the radio.
After moving last week it might have been damaged.... :(
But have been successful with a GWS cub and the same trany.

[redrunner]

I think that the problem too is the compatability of the JR transmitter (crystal 43), to the Hitec Receiver(43).

Do you know if these two are compatible?
And if not what would be cheaper to replace the transmiter crystal or the receiver crystal?

[Dave Robelen]

Hi,
If you have a Hitech receiver marked with a "J" it should work. All other Hitech receivers have a different shift than the JR and are incompatible. If that is the case, changing the crystals will not be of any help. Basically, JR and Airtronics have what is referred to as a positive "shift" to the signal, while Hitech,Futaba, FMA and some others have a negative shift.
Take care, Dave

[redrunner]

Hey Dave!

I think that I have it figured out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quite simple actually. With running a dual conversion receiver I needed a dual crystal too!

[Dave Robelen]

Hi,
That would be a good start. The crystals certainly are different. Just be sure that the receiver is JR compatible as well.
Regards, Dave