Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai I/II Forum

[DR.GT]

merkel54:

Yes you can go to your local motorcycle shop. I have used
"Blendzall Racing Castor" with good results. A pint is about $6-7.
You could add 1 oz. at a time to find out what you prefer. I used to add about 3 oz. to 1 gallon of Blue thunder 20%.

:)

[Merkel54]

COOL! I'll try that this week. Have you ever used Monster Fuel?

[DR.GT]

merkel54:

No, I have not used the Monster fuel. I have used the Wildcat 20% which makes the fuel for Trinity though. I am sure its good fuel though. I am not a real user of Trinity products unless I have no choice but to use them. Don't get me wrong, Trinity makes some great products but I don't like the way they do business to hurt other manufacturers in this hobby so I try to use other manufacturers products if at all possible.

:)

[kanairacer]

I use higher oil content because I want the engine to last longer. Then what I do is use a cold plug so I can get more performance out of the engine, but thus leaning it more. So I get a balance, cold plug, high oil, lots of power. Italian engines all have to be tuned the same way. The manual is **** that comes with them, but they must be tuned this way. I have a few Italian engines, and all of them run perfectly like this, some for 8+ gallons with this same method. They are very finicky engines, and do not require as much max performance hardware (glow plugs), but more tuning. I run a MC8 in my C5B and it runs like a dream with 20% oil. Think about this, you will see if you tune your engine like this, it will run a heck of alot better.:D

[Merkel54]

Thanks I'll give it a try.

[kanairacer]

What are some opinions? Post what you got on the kanai 2.

[adim_x]

do you know how much they will cost

[kanairacer]

$799 Street, $999 Kyosho List Price

I gotta tell you, that's pricy, and to make it worse, the kanai regular hasn't gone down in price at all.:mad:

[adim_x]

you gonna get one

[adim_x]

i could get ya a good deal on them

[kanairacer]

i have my connections as well, but just out of curiousity, how much?

[adim_x]

basically i would say 700, that would pay tax, and shipping, 100 bucks cheaper than tower

[adim_x]

regular kanais i would sell for 650

[Vmax911]

sorry to water down the thread, but can you guys get other buggies?

[adim_x]

what do you think about the kanai 2, kanairacer, I currently own a mugen xr, I just bought it, basically upgraded it to the same new stuff a kanai 2 has on it(aluminum clutch, big bore shocks, front hub carriers), that kanai is looking awful tempting though. I have never had any experience with kyosho, but i am sure it is an awesome car. a bit too expensive though, tell me your thoughts,

[nitrobuggy]

I was just about to get a Kanai edition, but now that this came out, it's looks very tempting. Is it worth it to pay that extra $100? Or should I just get the Kanai?

[kanairacer]

well, I own a kanai right now and from the differences I see, the kanai 2 looks like a joke. the only differences are an aluminum clutch, metal degree fittings, and don't forget the "special splash guard". But for an extra $50 I say it is worth it cosidering the flywheel and clutch included is worth $50.

But since I get kanais at $580 and I can't get kanai 2's, then I say forget the kanai 2. But seriously, the hyper 7 pro I feel is a better buggy. I have one of those and it handles better in my opinion than the kyoshos. and they're $390 dollars! Cheap compared to infernos! but nothing beats kyosho quality.

if you have a choice between the kanai and the kanai 2 and the diff is only $50, go with the kanai 2

RB Concept C5B all the way!

[diesel757]

but nothing beats kyosho quality.

nothing but mugen.:D don't get me wrong I love kyosho , but mugen makes some of the toughest buggies around. ;)

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Guys, im very limited in fuels where I live, and so far I have found a blend with 15% nitro, 20% oil that I really like. Most other stuff around here is junk, and that was the best running fuel I could find for my engine now. What do you think of that combo for a V01B? First of all, I know I should run higher nitro, and probably less oil, but I am attracted by the longer runtimes, cooler running, longer engine life, and cheaper price if I use that stuff. Also, I can use cheaper hotter plugs, such as the A3 which are cheap, and should be the best thing for less nitro and more oil...

What do you guys think? I can also get the 20% nitro version of the same stuff, but it costs more, and i'll get shorter runtimes. I don't race, so a little performance loss in no biggie for me, but I do want it to last as long as possible on a tank, and I want my engine to last...

Post any suggestions or comments please, thanks in advance guys:)

uDi

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Originally posted by kanairacer
but nothing beats kyosho quality.

And thats a fact! not even Mugen....:D

[NitroRacer10]

my K2 will be here in a few hours :)

[NitroRacer10]

I can tell you this much...........with 20% or 15 you do not get cooler temps......The more nitro/less oil the cooler it runs and vice versa. You do get longer run time (depending on how it is tuned) and it should help engine last longer (again tuned properly) but like I said temps are higher with lower nitro percentage!!!

[Motorman007]

here is a place you may can get a K2
hey NitroRacer10

where did you get your K2?

has anyone tried ultimate hobbies?

they seem to get stuff cheap too.

and try National RC Mr. Regan works there and he is the team Mang. for Team Kyosho and i beat they get them before Tower Hobbies do.:D

[NitroRacer10]

dibs.......this is wilson :D

[adim_x]

tower hobbies, and great planes(kyoshos importer share a warehouse, so most often,if tower dont have it, than the kanai is not here yet

[NitroRacer10]

well I have one right here :p

[adim_x]

well, thats pretty sweet, where did you order it from

[NitroRacer10]

a guy from TX got it from Japan

[Motorman007]

wilson yo i was not sure it that was U
:D

so you getting it put together tonight. let me know how you like the hubs ok.

the Japan place is


http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/english/hobbynet.html



586 and to your door for 710 or so

parts are cheap. and if you and a friend go in on some stuff it would be better...

[Motorman007]

uDi_NMT ® ü l z................

If i was you i would get a RB 3 port to play around with... save that Nice motor a race day or something.

you can run the 3 port as hards as you can. guys that i seen run them have got them over 350 deg. 7 times and it will still run. all you need is a OD head or a S7 or SW7 head to bring down the temp to 230 or so.. and that thing will run 9 to 10 min. the V01B is no a play motor. unless you have a lot of motors to play around with. :)

and fuel 20% is good for playing around and racing. i ran 30% for a long time. and now that i got 2 OD heads now i can save some bucks and run 20% and still run fast.

[NitroRacer10]

its coming together NICE NICE NICE!!!!!!!!!

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Thanks for the suggestion, but i'd probably pay like $100 more for an RB 3port, compared to the V01B, as there has been a huge RB pricerise here, and a decent OS price drop to go with it. I would be paying more than twice as much for a S7 Europa as a V01B for example, thats the kind of price difference there is. And I can't order from outside Australia, so don't bother suggesting that..

And as an added bonus, I get an included foam airfilter, 2 pre-oiled foams (1 spare), a boost chamber, and typical OS ease of tuning when I go OS. Also, if I go 15%N, 20%O, then I can get away with an A3 plug, which is very cheap, and probably the best for the lower nitro and higher oil percentage in the fuel.

Can you tell me why you don't suggest the OS as a play motor? I have already ordered, but tell me anyway, as I can do my best to avoid any stress or damage, or whatever else if I know what weak points the motor has, etc.

Also, ill run a bottle of 15% for breakin, and towards the end of the bottle, if the motor seems slow and sluggish, i'll move on to 20%. If the motor is plenty fast for me with 15% (running at decent temps), then i'll stay with that, as im attracted to the longer runtimes, and cheaper fuel cost.

later
uDi

[DR.GT]

uDi:

There is nothing wrong with the OS at all. The VO1B is a world class engine. I believe that motorman just thought if your bashing around why waste a great motor. I'm sure he did not take into account the availability and price differences in Australia
that you speak of for Rossi's and OS's.

I would run a A3 plug in the OS and only use the fuel you'll run all the time when you break it in. ( If your going to use 20% stay with it from breakin on till rebuild time). When you change fuels you need to run about 2-3 tanks of the new grade nitro % fuel at low RPM's to allow your engine to adjust to the new nitro content. In no way should you run the engine hard until this is done as you can damage your engine. You'll end up wasting fuel on the change overs because of not being able to run for performance so just stay with 20%. Also the .21's like at least 20% for performance.

hope this helps...

:)

[OldskoolGT]

Hello 7.5 guys,

Just a quick question from a fellow 1/8th buggy driver (not a Kyosho though). Is there a difference between the lengths of the front and rear universal shafts for the 7.5?

I have purchased the 2 sets of Kyosho Universals front and (supposedly) rear (for use on my Hyper 7 FWIW)and they appear to be the same length. I bought the "rear" universals from Ace and they came in an unmarked bag, so I am not really sure they are rear universals since they appear to be the same length as the fronts, which were retail packaged units from my LHS. The lenght of both sets of universals is about 5.047".

[purplerides]

Oldschool - kyosho uses different part numbers for the front and rear IF-125 for the fronts and IFW-114 for the rears i never really looked at them close at the same time while they where out of the car so i don't know the exact difference , i know MIP uses the same shafts front and rear for there replacements by i perfer the kyosho ones.

[NitroRacer10]

I will try to help...I read that the hyper guys are unsing Kysoho rear universal in the front and kyosho front universal in the rear. Not sure if that helped you or not nut hope so!!

[DR.GT]

Old Skool:

I am not sure but I believe Nitro Racer10 is correct on the universals ( rings a bell). I'm using MIP CVD's universals on my 7.5. Just make sure they don't fit to tight or you'll lose suspension travel and or rip the **** out of everything!

:)

[moep]

Hi all, I'm back again... still a bit dizzy from the ferry and a following 12h (traffic-jam) travel... ;)

I finally got my V01B running with the 3.5 turn needle settings... after 6x 2 min of heat-cycling at approx. 200°F, I dialed it in at about 265°F (ambient was about 110°F) and went to the next suitable terrain, clamped the trigger down and weeeeeee... off it went.
The low end is just plain sick, it was almost too much for the low-traction dust in sardinia.
there's also plenty of high-end available, although i didn't have the posibility to let the engine rev-out yet.

btw, I've got my first gallon of 25/12 Sidewinder Race-blend through my OS and couldn't notice any decrease of compression.
I ran cold OS #8, it always fired up after 1 sec on the starterwheel and I couldn't notice any flame-outs etc...

About my Inferno:

uDi_NMT, the green springs are really waaay too soft.
I had to put the collars way down to prevent the car from bottoming-out, even when driving over small bumps.
I'll make a pic of the chassis-underside later... :rolleyes:

the buggy had too much off-power steering first,but after taking away some toe-out on the front and setting the steering dualrate to 70%, everything was ok.

I'll tear the entire car apart tomorrow to clean it, check if the diffs are still sealed and so on.

If I can get it running again in time, ill make a vid of it... we'll see, I'm soooo tired... :o

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Nice to hear+see you back moep. :)

I guess im glad I went for 50wt all round then if the springs are that soft. I've been told that they are way soft by a few other people too, so thats why I went for some slightly thicker shock oil. What shockoil do you run moep? Also what are you using in the diffs front/rear/center?

DR.GT, Im very tight on money at the moment, so running 15% nitro is the best option for me right now. I will run approx. 2 quarts of 15% to see if I like it (towards the end of bottle 2, the engine should be ready for some high revs) and if I do, i'll most certainly stick to it. If it appears slow and sluggish, i'll go up to 20% and run 2-3 tanks rich to re-break in to an extent, I have always done this previously as well.

I am going from a 15FE (very lowend single needle .15) equipped NMT to a V01B equipped MP7.5, so im quite sure the car will be plenty fast for me!

About my 7.5, well I have been told I will have to wait yet another week, however, the guy at the place im ordering from said he will ship everything else to me tommorow (monday) so I have something to do/play around with until the car comes. So in a few days I should have my engine, starterbox, radio gear, tuned pipe/header, tyrefoams, shockoil, diffoil, etc etc. After that I just gotta wait for the buggy to arrive.

uDi

[moep]

I haven't got the numbers in WT, only the "numbers"...

I've got #250 in the shocks and 3000/5000/1000 in the diffs.

Maybe that equals 25WT 300/500/100 WT?

Dunno. :D

[OldskoolGT]

Thanks for the help guys regarding my 7.5 universal question. From what gather, the universals are probably the same length for front and rear since MIP only sells one size of CVD for the 7.5. Kinda weird that Kyosho has 2 different part numbers for what looks like the same part.

[willb]

Hey guys..

Picked up a used Kanai, been big on the electric scene for alot years and figured that I'd give nitro offroad a whirl.

My question to you guys is: are there seals for the diffs?? I am doing a rebuild of the car before I put it on the track ( Season starts in Sept.) and other than the o-rings, I didn't see any seals.


2nd. question can you get just certain hinge pins or do you have to buy the set??


Thanks Guys,

Will

[DR.GT]

willb:

You can either buy new gaskets, make your own, or just seal the
ends with silicone. also siicone the set screw area as it can leak also.

As to hinge pins you probably need to buy sets from kyosho but I am not totally sure on that so I'm open to correction.

BTW, welcome to the world of 1/8, its the real deal...


:)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what weight of silicone are you guys using in the front and rear diff case?
thanx for helping me out

:)

[willb]

Thanks Dr. GT

I did find the paper gasket while cleaning. I don't see a replacement gasket anywhere on line. I believe that I will use a little rtv silicone to seal them up. Thanks for the tip on the set screw. All 3 diffs were pretty low, need to seal em better.

Dr. GT where are you from? We have one of the largest indoor facilities in the midwest and always host some sort of national event in the winter, check us out: www.crcrc.com

:D

nmt: all the fast guys are using 3000 front, 5000 center and 1000 rear.

[DR.GT]

willb:

I'm just a Crazy Canuck from up in BC, Canada.

:)

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Hey, do you guys think 50wt is pushing it for the standard shocks w/soft green springs? I regret it now, but will it do the job okay? Or will my car handle like a piece of sh** when it comes to the bumpy stuff?

[moep]

I re-filled my Shocks yesterday, because I met a guy that I got to know via the net (he has a Terra-Crusher) and we planed to do some jumping in my Backyard.

However, I had 50WT and #100 Oil here, so I mixed it to get something in between... :p
The Shocks are now filled with about 35 WT rear and 40 WT in the front. I'm currently running on grass and the handling is just fine. It also handles neutral on dirt and still soaks up the bumps flawlessly.
Nevertheless I'll pick up a set of blue springs to test how it handles with harder springs.

I guess 50WT may be a bit too much with the green springs, but you can try it out:
Fill all shocks with 50WT, reinstall the shocks.
Now place your car on the floor and grab it longitudinally.
Move the car up and down and watch the wheels:
If they loose the ground contact while you pull the car up again ( decompress the suspension), you'll need either a lighter oil or harder springs.

My 35/40 WT setup is quite at the limit to lift the wheels with the green springs, so I think 50 WT will be too much.

btw. here are two shots of my inferno and one of a TC jumping... gotta set the shutter time down next time... :rolleyes:

http://www.derhofmann.com/tc/pics/moep_inf1.jpg
http://www.derhofmann.com/tc/pics/moep_inf2.jpg
http://www.derhofmann.com/tc/pics/moep_tc1.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by willb
nmt: all the fast guys are using 3000 front, 5000 center and 1000 rear.

wow... i was told 100,000 in front and rear by ppl in hpi forum...

this is for nmt...
Now i am thinking like 7000front and 5000rear because your suggestiong seems too light? and the 100,000 seems WAY to heavy... are you sure you forgot an extra 0s in your numbers? thanx

[moep]

umm... unless you're driving on ice, don't listen to those HPI guys.
100,000 will lock your diffs and your Inferno will have a turn-radius like a aircraft carrier.

Just use the suggested #3000 front, #5000 rear and #1000 (or grease, without the O-rings) rear and you'll be fine.

NMT was speaking about the shock-springs, which are too soft. He wants to fill harder oil in there to increase the damping - which has nothing to do with the Diffs... ;)

[DR.GT]

Moep has got it right. 3000 in front, 5-7000 in center, JT6 lube or 1000 in the rear. This is the setup to always start with ( I personally always go to a new track with F-3000, C-5000, R-1000 with the standard diffs). I tried a Kanai diff in front with C-5000,R-1000 yesterday and I gained a lot of steering with that setup ( recommended by Regan Le Blanc). for my track this is a real good setup.

:)

[RB RUSTLER]

i am looking to buy an mp7.5. i started out with the rustler it was fast but now i want FASTER. what is the fastest engine u can put into one of these. money don't matter. i was looking at an OS and an RBconcept. WHAT IS THE FASTEST ENGINE I CAN PUT IN

[Motorman007]

if "money don't matter." then you need to look into the JP mod motors these are the "money don't matter." motors
you are looking at about 399 to start 599 up.

M2K motor by
http://www.generalsilicones.com/110on.html#m2k

and JP racing motors
http://www.jpracing.com/rex/rex.htm
http://www.jpracing.com/blackengineE/blackE.htm
http://www.jpracing.com/novarossi/nova.htm

i got one from MR. Mario ROSSI now i just did some run in two weeks ago getting it ready for the R/C Pro Series that we are going to have in OKLAHOMA in Setp.

http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/pw/bt/abalone/confhome?conf=offroad4

and so far it has 7 tanks on it. all i can say is it is going to be a nice motor.

make a pick

[RB RUSTLER]

will those engines be to powerful for the car. i allways see OS engines in the pros

[moep]

What do you mean with a fast engine?
Fast for bashing, or a engine for fast lap times?

For bashing and wiiiide tracks, the R&B C5 would be a sweet engine, it's got so much top-end, its almost scary... but it somehow lacks a bit of low-end.

For serious racing on "normal" tracks, a R&B WS7 or a OS V01b would be my first choices... I own both engines and I really love both.
The V01b has awesome low-end torque and it's easy to tune, but It won't last as long as a Italian engine. I've run 5 Gallons of 25%/12% Sidewinder through it and the P/S haven't got any "pinch" anymore. It also lost a lot of compression, hence it also lost a lot of power. If you plan to run a O.S. V01b, USE FUEL WITH 18% OIL!
I didn't believe this before, of course now I do.
The WS7 ran now through ~1 Gallon and I just love this engine...
It has almost the torque of the O.S. plus a lot of more top-end.
Once you're through the tough break-in phase, it starts in a blink and idles quite reliable. Mine is now running at 250°F and really puts out unbelievable power...

If money is no matter and you just want the fastest car for Wide-open bashing, get a C5 Rodey Roem Modified. The top end is just plain sick, if not even too much.

[RB RUSTLER]

thanks moep for the info. i already have an rb engine it runs great its the rb c12. i have the money to get the buggy(mp7.5) and radio my dad is buying the engine. if it run the OSVO1 with 18% oil will it last longer

[moep]

Yes, the V01b will definitively last longer with 18% Oil in the Fuel.
O.S. strongly recommends Fuel with 18% lubricant, but all Team-drivers drive 12% or even 10% oil in the fuel, so I thought it wouldn't harm the engine that much.

Here's my opinion on the 1/8 Buggy-engine story:

- if you run on small tracks, the OS 21-RZ V01B is a good choice.

- if you run on medium tracks , the R&B WS7 is the will suit your needs.

- if you run on huge tracks with sweeping turns and many straights , the R&B C5 is the right engine for you.

- if you're looking for a high-end bashing-engine with a nice bang for bucks-rating, the R&B S7 is the way to go.

- if you've got too much money, want the fastest bashing-bug in town and don't care about a little lack of low-end, take a look at the R&B C5.

[RB RUSTLER]

with that info i will go with the RB ws7 since i know that RB concepts are good engines

[Motorman007]

so when is a go time to use the 1.3 and the 1.4 holes?

and some one has told me to use

1.3 40 front 30 rear or 40 front 20 rear. blue springs

1.4 50 front 30 rear. blue springs.

and when is a good time to use the Green srpings?

thanx dibs

[willb]

Have you guys found any blue colored screw kits or blue cone washers to go with the MP. Sorry but I am a freak to detail and love clean looks and the splash of blue everywhere.

Just a notice. I just installed the new Trinity K hinge pins and they went on great. They come with a lock nut to secure the pin. No more worries about losing a e clip and hinge pin coming loose.

Will

[NitroRacer10]

WillB- My Kanai2 ca,e with alot of blue cone washers....actually one for every flathead screw! If you want more I am not sure of kit and I hate to say this but OFNA sells alot of anodized stuff like that. Check out their website

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Here's my new Inferno MP7.5 :)

Running:
OS 21RZ V01B
RB Concept 086 Polished Pipe
Futaba T2PHKA Radio Gear
And a few other goodies.

Enjoy!

Click the Link:

http://infernomp75.0catch.com

[Motorman007]

parts needed to make the K1 a K2

Hard Rear Shock Stay (7075S) -------IFW121
LSD diff Oil (Red)----- 92201
Steering Plate with extra holes (7075 Material)-----IFW126
Special Brake Disk MP-7.5 ------IFW122
Special Front Upper Rod MP-7.5 -------IFW123
Special Rear Upper Rod MP-7.5 ------IFW124
Shocks and parts---IF141(rear set) IFW140(front set) IFW141-02 (rear shaft) IFW140-02(Front Shaft) IFW140-05 bladder set and IFW140-06(just the bladders)
Front Hub Carrier ---IFW138 (20°)
---IFW139 (22°)
Front Upper Arm ---IFW137
fronts Un. (+ 1mm) IFW142
Aluminum Front Lower Suspension Plate ---IFW127
6.8mm Hard Pivot Balls (3) ------IFW134
Fuel Splash Guard----FW135
Aluminum 3 peice Clutch Shoes---- IFW 136
Clutch sprints--- IFW53
Flywheel---... IFW110
clutch nut.. IFW54

Front Suspension Holder (Red)A ------IFW128
The rear shock tower also has one more hole in it.. I really doub't its that important but its part number is IFW121BL

[NitroRacer10]

you forgot the crucial factor dibs!!! ATLEAST 300 BUCKS!!!!!!

[Regan LeBlanc]

Shop around, Kanai II's can be had WAY cheaper than the prices listed so far.
In fact i know they can be had for 20$ over the Kanai I. And since there are over 300$ worth of upgrades in the kit (not just a splash guard and clutch) it's well worth it, and raises the bar even higher.

[NitroRacer10]

damn didn't i just say over $300 in parts over the Kanai 1 LOL.. Regan is bill i n?

[Regan LeBlanc]

Bill is a soccer mom on weekends, He makes snacks and drinks for the girls. He gossips with all the other moms, and talks about tuperware ect. No way he would be at the shop. :)

[NitroRacer10]

LMAO!! OK thats what I thought!!I emailed him lastnight about something and he said he would let me know when he got to the shop ...BAHAHAHAHA

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Guys, I own a regular MP7.5, and need some suggestions on some must-have hopups. Reason being is that I have a friend going to Tokyo next week, and kits and parts seem to be a LOT cheaper over there. As a side note, does anyone know of any hobbyshops stocking kyosho around the tokyo area? or does everyone order online...

My needs are:
Front Torque-Rod set IFW-112
Knuckle Arm IF-6

And my wants so far are:
Rear Universals
F/R center Univerals
Fuel Filter 1876
And maybe a set of Blue springs.

I don't really need the uni's because im just bashing, so if you guys think theres anything thats more important and/or likely to break, do tell me. (any 7075 parts, etc) Also, can someone get me a part number for those rear and center uni's, I can't find them in my manual.

Also, do Kyosho have any CNC front knuckles? The cast ones strip pretty easy, and it seems all the Inferno's come with them...

Please help out or make suggestions if you can.
Thanks in advance guys,
uDi

[NitroRacer10]

Fioroni for the knuckles and torque rods. If you buy the K torque rods they will work for a week or so then they will be worn and need replaced.

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Other than the fact that I couldn't afford Fioroni gear, I am limited to whatever I can get in Australia, or at one of the hobbyshops in Tokyo. So no chance of that, im stuck with Kyosho for the most part...:(

Anyone else got any suggestions?

[NitroRacer10]

tokyo might have that is why i said it! ALso you may want to look into the K factory stuff. I am not sure what to tell you other than if you HAVE to buy K torque rods maybe buy a few if they will be so cheap. And just buy extra knuckles too. Also I am pretty sure that arms etc are cheap so you might as well get some arms and other things that may break or wear out over time!

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Yeah, thanks man. I'll try to get some CNC knuckles and CNC torque rods, that should bullet proof the buggy for the most part - do you know if K Factory, or other brand (that is prolly over there) make them?

Also, what sort of things do you usually break on your Kanai's? I'm not too hard on my buggy usually, but it would be nice to not have to worry about going easy when driving. Anything in particular that breaks easily/wears out fast/easily?

I might forget about uni's and just get things to make the buggy stronger with that money.

Thanks again in advance man.

[team_luigis]

how much did u pay ur pipe?rb

[team_luigis]

i have a k front torque rod and its pretty solid!

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

I paid AU$90 which is US$45. I think I got it noticeably cheaper than what you'd usually pay (well over here anyway)

[Motorman007]

and i have a ?
i was at the track sunday talking some guys.. about the steering plate holes.

is it a c b going a way from the front of the plate or c b a going a way from the front of the plate?


and which hole gives the most turning angel?

[Regan LeBlanc]

Pretend your sitting in the buggy.

It's B-C-A as you move forward with the holes. "C" is the kit recomended hole, but everyone on the team is using the "B" hole furthest back on the slider.

[Motorman007]

THANX lil SET!!! ;-)

[PBrad]

guys... cant we stick to one forum?


By the way, I like my K2 ALOT. the new CNC parts are awsome and the 22 degree FHC rule!!

I did go back to the Standard 3 shoe clutch, the alu. ones lasted me 2 race days... they wore all the way down to the spring.

[atm92484_3]

Well guys I guess I'm part of the crew now. I have a new MP 7.5 coming either Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. I also ordered torque rods for both ends, and the 3 different weights of grease (it ended up around $450).

I've yet to order an engine, but I think I am going to go with the RZ-V01B and a TRS pipe/header combo. Any input on other pipes, manifolds, or hop-ups?

-thanks

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

V01B, is nothing but a dream in terms of tunability and reliability. I could go on forever about this engine.... Love it.

I don't know much about the TRS or whatever, but most guys religiously use RB/Nova pipes. They seem to work exceptionally well, the two common ones being the 063 and 086. The 086 gives more topend, a lot of lowend, and pretty punchy midrange, while the 063 has a great lowend, and gives better fuel economy than the 086.

I personally think the 086 is the best for the V01B, as it turns some of that beefy torque into topend. That way you have the best of both worlds.

BTW- grease? why not silicone diff oil.....? Performance wise, its a fair bit better than grease, and its what the 1/8 buggy diffs are designed to use. I am using the Mugen stuff, simply because that is the only stuff around here. But its like AE shock oil, you use it, you stick to it.

[DR.GT]

Well as Udi stated the VO1b is a great engine. I have the earlier
model the 99Vb and it just won me a 40 minute A Main last weekend. There were Rb S7's, WS7's, C4's and VO1b's there at the race. I'm using a S&H pipe. It looks alot like the rossi .12 pipes and works great with this engine. I'm getting 7 to 7 1/2 minutes on a tank under race conditions and can run with most down the straight. Modified engines will be a bit faster but the torque on the OS out of the corners with a 3 shoe is fabulous. Get rid of your 2 shoe clutch or get the optional blue stiff spring for it. That will make the OS come alive.

As to diff oils I would recommend 3000W in front, 5-7000W in the center, and 1000W in the rear and get the blue springs for the shocks. Run about 1-2* of toeout and you should be set. If you run on a short track use a 063 pipe and long track the 086. I got my S&H 2nd hand and I'll try to find out where its available and post later.

:D

[atm92484_3]

Thanks for the input guys. I guess when I ordered the grease, I was caught up in the excitment of getting a 1/8 buggy. Oh well, atleast I won't be losing that much money on them. As for the clutch, how is the Kyosho 3 shoe clutch? The track I run on is pretty tight, so whatever low-end I can get will work to my advantage. I also plan on getting some Lundsford titanium turnbuckles along with a set of Proline tires (probably Dirty Harrys and something onroad). Any reccomendations on starting points for shock oil? (The car is coming tomorrow so I can always look in the manual then.) I'll probably order a couple different weights of springs also, but that won't be for a few more weeks once I get everything up and running.

[DR.GT]

ATM:

Glad we can help. I use 40W in front and 30W in back for the shocks. I found 35W in front that my front end dove in to much and was not as good for jumps. The stock green/black springs are to soft and the whites are to hard. Almost everybody runs the blue springs.

As to the clutch, get the 3 shoe composite, you won't be sorry and they'll last forever. I have the aluminum 3 shoe with the 1.0 springs as that is all I could get at the time. Most people run the 1.1 springs but this is usually on the RB engines and they are 7 port not like the 3 port OS's. They need the extra spring tension to get their rpm's up to give them the snap. I won the trophy race last weekend because of the great bottom end with the 3 shoe and OS 3 port torque. I was able to get out of the corners really well. This was a medium size track with about a 130' straight.

Also use the "B" blocks for the front (more steering) and I like the 3* block in the back better than the 2* especially if the track gets slick. If you have the $ you can try a Kanai diff in the front (black oil) and it makes the steering really responsive and quick.

I finally found out that he pipe I've been using is a megatech pipe #MTCSA201 and as I previously stated it is really nice. I have tried the 063 and 086 but keep going back to the megatech with the OS. Great torque, top end, and milage.

enjoy....

:cool:

[turboburns]

Hey guys, I am currently running an old inferno buggy right now but by the begining of next year I plan to purchace a new Mp 7.5. My biggest question is should I go with the standard or one of the Kanai versions? I plan to race at my local track so i would like to be competitive. If I did go with the standard which hop ups are the ones to look at first. I am also planning on getting the WS7 engine to power the buggy. I tried using the Ofna Force P8 engine on my Inferno twice but both times it lost compression after about 1.5 gallons. Any help on a new buggy would be greatfully appreciated.


The Megatech pipe is the same thing I have been using and until the Ofna engines get tired the pipe works great on my Inferno. I was planning on using it on the new buggy when I do get it.

[DR.GT]

turboburns:

If money is not a problem then get the Kanai 2. You get all you need in this kit. It is expensive but the way to go for competitive racing.

If you don't want to spend the $ on a Kanai then the regular 7.5 is great also. The best hop ups are stronger shock towers as they will bend and chassis braces. By the time you add some hop ups though then you'll be in the Kanai money range so its really a choice. If your a good driver then the money saved on the regular 7.5 will go a long ways and if your driving is poor then get the Kanai 2.

hope this helps....:)

[atm92484_3]

I've almost completed building my 7.5, but I have a question about the gears in the gearboxes. Kyosho reccomends having 1 thin and 1 thick shim on each side of the diff assembly to align it with the pinion gear. When I did this, the mesh felt really tight on the rear gearbox, even after I put the grease onto the gears. I played around with it for awhile (including making sure the diff gear was fully tightened to the case and that the gasket was in place). Still, the diff was tight and had a rough feel and sound to it. I finally reshimmed the diff with 1 thick shim on one side and 2 thin shims and 1 thick shim on the other. Do you guys think this is okay or should I go back to what Kyosho reccomends? The front went together fine with the reccomended shimming in the instructions, but I just don't want to wear the hard coating off of the rear gears and ruin them.

[DR.GT]

atm:

I see you are experiencing the joys of diffs. IMHO I have seen in many different makes of cars where you have to improvise to make things work. Sometimes the tolerances are out so you have to change a bit to get the desired result. I think this is what has happened to the diff your working on. It shouldn't hurt it as long as there is not too much slop between the gears. Keep an eye on it and you should be ok.

Its similar as some people try to put the shim in behind the 13T bevel drive gear in the bulkhead but it is not needed.

:)

[zzest]

i need some expert advices/opinions: i plan to purchase the mp7.5 and am looking into using a spare cvec pipe i have in my part bins. the cvec labeled .15 cn i use it for .21 engine anyway?

thanks!

[rcmad2]

DR.GT, I have been reading these past post's about this car. I am racing one. I have seen you and other's talk about the "B" block's. Are these front steering component's or something else? Do you have any part number's for them? Any help is appreciated. Chris

[DR.GT]

Yes they are the upper and lower blocks in the front end of the car that your front upper and lower arms attach to at the back. The upper block is under the chassis plate and the bottom block is on your chassis . The kit box comes with the standard and the marked "B" blocks. The part # is IF-124 and is a parts tree with 7 parts on it and is called suspension holder in the manual.


:)

[rcmad2]

Thank's DR GT. I will see which one's are in my car. I race this car for another guy. He love's to build them and own them but he say's he doesn't drive them very well. So he build's and I race.Chris

[bigfootmp]

help! does anyone know of a m8 manual download. unlike other radio companies, airtronics only sells them. thanks

[WHITESTER1]

Here is a Kanai 2 in action. Driven by Team Kyosho Driver Dave Henry.


Kani 2 race footage (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/FTR5.wmv)

[r/cman]

Has anyone bought a Kanai 11 from the Japaneese web site that motorman posted?
Was wondering if the instructions are in Japaneese?
I have been looking to buy a kit but no luck.

[NitroRacer10]

what site did he post?? hobbynet? If so it will be 710 after shipping

[r/cman]

That's the one Hobbynet. I was thinking of ordering one from them.

[NitroRacer10]

well you saw what i posted about the price. Also check out the for sell thread. I have on in there

[Regan LeBlanc]

Those bluestar chassis look nice, but they are made of 6061 (soft).

The Kyosho chassis is 7075 and has a very expensive anodized coating on it. I like it better than the aftermarket ones i've tried.

[jason102276]

i would love to see some pictures of kania 2 i am thinking about switching from mugen xr so i dont know anything about kyosho buggies

[Motorman007]

http://www.three5models.co.uk/7_5_kan2_data.htm

try this place

and here

http://www72.pair.com/kyosho1/kweb/

all you need to do is change the Languages and you can read it all

[hdcchrome]

Question????

Has anyone tried the TCD diff in the rear??? Reason I ask is that I am building one and the rear diff gears are the standard cast gear set and they don't mesh well.

Has anyone had problems with the standard rear diff?

[PBrad]

Running an LSD in the front and rear will give you the most steering but it's hard to drive.

I have never had any problems with any of my 7.5's rear diffs. They mesh perfectly, but you must make sure to put the proper shims around the little bevel gears.

[hdcchrome]

Thanks PBrad!! The rear diff that came with my Kania does not mesh right and I did build it correctely, so I am not sure what to do. I thought about buying the LSD set for the rear.

[PBrad]

Well the LSD gears are about $80 more than the standard gears. If you run one in the rear, don't run one in the middle, the car won't drive right that way plus you don't have to buy another set, just switch the gears around. If the gears are not meshed properly, either you are doing something wrong or the gears are worn out.

[Enrique.v]

hdcchrome-What up man?
Also dont forget to shim it right..hows your new kanai buggy?

[hdcchrome]

Enrique.v,

hey buddy! Have not enjoyed the Kanai yet because of the rear diff issue. What rear diff do you run?

[Enrique.v]

Well I first ran the stock setup which had a pretty bad push but right now i run the stock sus setup with the LSD gears in the front and rear and 3k diff oil in the center with the reg gears if you track has more traction you can go up a in the center diff oil.

[r/cman]

Where do you get the LSD gears?

[PBrad]

They are made by Kyosho so you can get them at just about any place that sells kyosho stuff.

[hdcchrome]

Enrique.v,

So you run LSD gears front and rear, but standard in center??? May I ask why and what oil you are using in front/rear?

Thanks bud!!!!



r/c man, click on Cave boy for link to LSD gears

http://www.dewa.com/animated/LosAngeles/anicave.gif (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXG52)

Look on ebay too, there is a guy selling these cheaper than Tower.

[PBrad]

Running them front and rear will give you the most possible steering but its hard to drive. Using one in the center makes the buggy push but its very easy to drive.

[Enrique.v]

The only oil you can use in them is either the black or red stuff use the black.

[Enrique.v]

Originally posted by PBrad
Running them front and rear will give you the most possible steering but its hard to drive. Using one in the center makes the buggy push but its very easy to drive.

Hard to drive??? Why would you drive a 1/8 scale if you cant drive? All i know is that the front and rear are the best way to run them its not that hard..

[r/cman]

Thanks for the info. HDCCHROME. I appreciate it.

[PBrad]

I tried it and it makes the buggy bouncy especially in the bumps. I just cant nail the throttle in bumpy sections like I can using one in the front and center.

I like to be on throttle alot and thats not easy to do running front and rear. My lap times prove it.

[hdcchrome]

Enrique.v,

?????? What number? 2000, 3000, 10,000???

Thanks PBRAD!

[hdcchrome]

PBrad,

So the standard diff gives you more power or thrust and the LSD's are better in the turns?

What would LSD's in FRONT/CENTER/REAR do???

What is the advatage of FRONT/REAR with standard center?

Thanks for the help guys:D

[hdcchrome]

Enrique.v,

Now that was not a very nice thing to say....... "Hard to drive??? Why would you drive a 1/8 scale if you cant drive?"

Not everyone is a professional like you :D

[PBrad]

Don't think im a bad driver. I am one of the fastest guys at our track and often win the A main even with a few sponsored drivers who also race every weekend. It is harder to drive with the LSD in the rear and noticable during a longer 45 minute main where consistancy is key.

hdcchrome, the real difference between the types of diffs is just the feel of the buggy and how you like to drive it.

Putting a LSD in front and rear will make the car turn alot around the turns but it will be harder to drive in the bumps. You may want that set-up if the track is smooth.

I tried using an LSD in all 3 but the car feels very stiff, it takes off well but pushes bad and is bad in the bumps too

the only make 2 versions of oil, black and red. They do not use standard oil that is rated as a thickness.

[Enrique.v]

Hey i race at the Dirt RaceTrack(always HUGE AIR) where there are always many sponsored drivers..


All Iam saying is i find the front and rear lsd gears much ezer to drive than front and center.

[PBrad]

Sorry but I disagree. I found that it was too hard to hit the double tripple at the track where I race because it is a bit harder to drive straight and I cant nail the throttle right after I hit the ground after landing the first part. I could only clear the tripple after the track was watered down and for only the first few minutes.

[Enrique.v]

well thats you now..I found this setup to work well on all surfaces if not a few changes and its dialed...:D

[Enrique.v]

I can clear a 15 to 20ft tripple pretty much every lap wet or dry i run this diff setup b/c it feels the most "free" to me, everyone is different and every track surface is different.

[PBrad]

Ya well thats actually good if you like it in the front and rear(no pun intended!!) Richard Saxton seems to like it and seems to be winning everything too!

[PBrad]

Well the problem with our track is that 1/8 scale is the only class that can clear the double-tripple and if you dont hit it perfect you won't make it.

[Enrique.v]

Oh ok i see..

[Big Al's Racing]

Building a new Kanai 2 kit and when I assemble the front brake cam part# IF132 into part# IF131 (center diff housing) and turn it to engage the front brake, the back side of the cam that is cut at an angle hits the plastic center diff housing before it touches the front brake. I can't even get the front brakes to apply! Everything is assembled as shown in the manual and I am about to grind off the back side of the cam.

Surely I have done something wrong. Has anybody had this problem?

Thanks in advance!:confused:

[Enrique.v]

I think you most have put them in the wrong, change them around it should work if not something is wrong:confused:

[Big Al's Racing]

I have verified everything, taller cam to the back and the smaller cam to the front, the diff mount with the little tab on the side to the front. Everything the book says, I have built (7) 1/8 scales, 1st Kyosho and every other part has fit perfect. Great quality!
Just the brake cam for the front has been the only problem.
I even verified that all diff cases are the same size incase one could have been smaller.

Confused. I will check again for the 5th time to see what I have done and if I still can't get it right, then I will post a pic for all to see that I am not losing my mind!

Thank you for your reply.

[Enrique.v]

Also make sure the brake plates are able to side freely that way they dont lock ect..

[hdcchrome]

GUYS....


OK, I have a full set of LSD and two set of standard. I will try them all and see what I get here. I also have a tripple that needs a SOLID thrust after a sharp turn.

My whole problem started from the original standard gears NOT meshing correctely, so I will try a send set I just bought. Will let you all know.

Thanks for the help!!!!

[r/cman]

Has anybody had parts missing from their kit?
Such as shims a bolts and nuts?

[PBrad]

not with the 2 I own

[Enrique.v]

R/C Man: My last kit has many missing things..even a LSD!!!


This K2 i have now had nothing missing though.

[Big Al's Racing]

OK, after extensive checks, all of the parts were assembled per book and the front brake cam still was hitting the diff. So I ground off the back side and now it works. Also the shocks show that the bladders need to be installed deep into the cap below the recess, but when built this way the shocks leaked. (Metal to Metal did not seal up) So I installed the bladders on top of the recess to allow the shock body to seal against the bladders like all of my other buggies do. Then it worked out fine. Other than those two problems, the kit went together perfectly. Will test in a couple of days on the track and advise any problems.

[r/cman]

Thanks, The k 11 kit I have had a few small parts missing. Luckly the LHS had some spare pieces.

[PBrad]

Yes, do NOT install the bladders deep inside the caps. Kyosho messed up on that one.

[Big Al's Racing]

PBrad - Thanks for the information on the shock bladders- the front brake cam as I mentioned was the only other problem. Anything on there that you might know? The back side of the cam hits the diff housing as the front brakes are applied before they even touch the brake pads. Somebody must have already have had the same problem.

[PBrad]

Without a picture I couldnt tell you what was wrong. I would say that when I built my k2 the front calipers rubbed against the splash guard, but I just ran it and they freed up.

[Buggy.21]

I'm in the process of putting together my K1 finially put up the dollars and abandoned TTR but the quality is excellent. The only thing that I'm missing is the front sway bar kit :( I have one of the ball ends and that's it but thankfully my lhs has a spare kit that is been parted they have one for me to pick up :p

[Enrique.v]

Check this out

[PBrad]

ohh yea... check this out... Thats what I call big air. I do that every lap and I still haven't broke a thing in the 2 years I've been racing at that track (various layouts with jumps just as big).

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=731384

[prevelige]

sweet picture. Is that down in taunton?

I have to get down there to check it out.

[PBrad]

Ya thats at Taunton. The outdoor season is over though. Come and check out the indoor carpet track.

[Enrique.v]

Thats big air but at the track I run at jumps are bigger..I'll get some pics soon when i go racing.

[PBrad]

You gtta be kidding.. bigger than that is insane.

Last year we actually had a bigger jump. It was a 50ft qualdruple. That was alot of fun.

[Enrique.v]

PBrad-You Catch on fast:p

[ugman]

I have an Inferno 7.5 Sport and want to upgade the diff's. Will the Kanai Edition Diff work? What all do I need?

Thanks for you help!!

[gixxer]

As for the diffs. I think they should fit. Remember you should use the same type of materail or the kania harden steel diff will eat your cast steel (aluminum looking thing up). You probably need a harden drive bevel and spur.

So the kanai II uses 3.5mm shock shafts? What does the stock Mp7.5 comes with? Is it only the shaft or the shock is physically larger?

[PBrad]

The new shocks just add rigidity, the feel is exactly the same. the shock bodies are the same size. The caps are different though, they now have bleeder holes. Watch out though, the instructions have an error in them if ou decide to build the new shocks.

I currently have the old shocks in the front as I bent a new one believe it or not:eek: . It was actually just because I lost an eclip and the arm bent.

[PBrad]

double post... stupid school computers

[ugman]

I was wondering what hop--ups I need to convert my regular 7.5 into a Kanai II Edition.

Thanks for you help

[gixxer]

I think this converts from a k1 to K2

1. Front Hub Carrier (22° Caster Angle) 2. Front Upper Arm (To install the above Hub)
3. Special wishbone turnbuckles (Long with gold finish)
4. Re-engineered Shocks (3.5mm shaft)
5. LSD diff Oil (Red)
6. Ventilated / slotted Brake Disks (4pcs)
7. Rear Shock Stay with extra holes (7075 Material)
8. Steering Plate with extra holes (7075 Material)
9. Front Suspension Holder (Red)
10. Suspension Plates (7075)
11. Steel Balls
12. Fuel Splash Guard
13. Aluminium 3 piece Clutch Shoes

From a regular mp7.5 I think you'll need.
14.Green rims and wing.
15.Front torque rod
16. Ball bearing steering
17. quad brakes screws.
18. kanai engine mount
19. Blue springs.
20. Metal radio rods.
21. Wing Stay "aluminum"
22. Universals (2) center.
23. Universals (1) pair for rears.
24. Aluminum antennal holder.
25. Hardend chassis.
26. Front, Center TCD diffs

Good Luck. Plus i needed to get some of the parts from ebay since the front and rear shock towers aren't available unless from ebay :confused:

Personally muchs cheaper to get the K2 up front.

I bought my Regular mp7.5 for half the price from scratch and dents at tower so i'm putting some k2 parts on it from ebay to make a K 1 1/2 :D

Mp7.5 seems like a well built car and i'm sure you don't need to mod a 7.5 that much to really make it handle like a k2.

1 question:.. Is the K1 shock towers the same as K2's? They look identicle:confused:

[PBrad]

The rear shock tower is different. There are now 8 (was 6)different holes to place you shocks as well as 5 (was 4) holes for the upper rod placement. The front is the same.

The steering plate has the same amout of holes as the K1 but is a stronger material.

A few corrections gixxer....

The old upper arms will work fine with the new 22° FHCs, they are shorter because the rods are now longer. "9. Front Suspension Holder (Red)" that is the caster block and I recommend using the low caster blocks (blue). "16. Ball bearing steering" No need for this, alot of the team drivers don't use them because they dont last as long and can bind up easily unlike the standard bushings. You forgot to mention the servo saver is different than the standard 7.5. "24. Aluminum antennal holder." this is only found on the K2 version. "11. Steel Balls" I believe these are the same on all versions (I am 100% that they are the same on the K1 and K2). You also forgot to mention that the shock towers on the standard 7.5 are a weaker material and have less holes. I might have forgot a few things.....

[gixxer]

Thank for the correction. Ok now i know it's safe that i have the k2 shock towers. The rear upper has 8 holes and 5 for upper rods :D.

I didnt' know the servo savers were different. I purchased the k2 set from ebay for 24 and it looks almost the same except for the L shaped side which now is able to hold bearings. Does it really bind? What if they use sealed bearings. Hard to believe it'll actually bind considering it is popular in electric vehicles.

[PBrad]

Fuel and stuff get inside, I just use bushings of the same size. You cant feel a difference.

When I did use them, I had to replace them alot an dthey are a hard size to find. My XXX KEs bearings last forever, I dont get it, I think its because they are sealed better, not the bearing itself but the casing around it.

[Motorman007]

is this right?

The old upper arms will work fine with the new 22° FHCs, they are shorter because the rods are now longer.

[PBrad]

I think so... I mean, you dont change the arms, if you go from 20° to 22° so why would you need to change from 17° I guess I have to go an investigate it.

[Regan LeBlanc]

You must use the new upper arms with either of the new front hubs (20-22) The old upper arms only work with the original hubs. The length of the turnbuckle has nothing to do with it.

[PBrad]

whoops

thanks Regan

[bigfootmp]

hello, can anyone give me some advice on one piece pipes? i am looking to replace my banged up rb off road onepiece set with a nice pretty new one, but am not sure if i want to spend the $115 for the rb. that THS at towers sure looks nice for the money. but if it slows me down it really isnt worth it. i do believe you get what you pay for, but thrifty is my middle name. i guess i should tell you what im running it on so you can help. my car is a mp7.5, running rb w7 .

[PBrad]

I believe that the RB 063 is the best one piece pipe there is.

I do know a few people (very good racers which money is not an issue) who use that Ofna pipe. I dont know the part number, all I know is that it is polished and is fatter than the RB pipe. They say that it gives better bottom end (its fat) and its also cheaper.

[team_luigis]

hi all?
how is everyone doing?

i have a mp7.5 whit a clb engine and rb pipe and exhaust and rb air filter.cause i had a rbw7 but it died.
i went to practice at the crono distributor track,and i like my mp7.5,but i need more acceleration!
what kind of clutch do you think i should get?

if i change the engine mounts and the shoe-clutch from my mp7.5 for the k2 will there be changes? or a better performance?
is it worth changing them or keep what i have.?
should i add the 4 disck brake and lsd on my mp7.5 or theres no difference

Any good tips what oil i should put front.middle,rear? in the diffs?
thanks;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)

[PBrad]

I believe that the 3 shoe composite clutch is the best out there with the 1.1 (hard) springs. The alu. one gives the best punch but it does't last very long at all. You don't need to change the engine mounts, they only offer slightly better cooling to the engine.

AS for brakes, I use dual front and rear pads. I actually use special pads made out of some weird kind of circuit board material. They are made by Mike Cradock (Kyosho team driver from England). They are the most consistant brakes I have ever tried, completely fuel proof, water proof, and heat resistant. They're awsome. You can only buy them from www.Nationalrc.com in the states.

As for the diff oil, check previous posts for in depth discusions. For starters, try, 3000 in front, 7000 in the middle and grease in the rear.

[team_luigis]

thanks!
im gonna take out some plastic on the shoes clutch to make it lighter,like that its gonna accelerate faster.

do you think a lsd is worth for racing or the stock are better,

[PBrad]

I don't like to cut material off the clutch, it makes it very hard to keep things consistant after you replace it, so its better to first try changing springs.

I use the LSD in the front and center. It works well like that but the center LSD makes it push, but its very esay to drive. It is best to just try using one for the front and see how you like it, with 6000-10,000 in the center with grease in the rear. Running a LSD front and rear gives the most steering, but its hard to drive.

[hdcchrome]

Anyone tried this from DuraTrax??????

Repels contaminants such as oil and grease which reduce braking effectiveness
System uses economical fiberglass discs for reduced wear
Includes eight calipers, six 1.5mm discs, hardware and instructions for installation
Note: minor radio tray modification is necessary

Stock Numbers:
DTXC2560 Multi-Disc Brake System - Inferno

[PBrad]

All the team drivers are using the discs I descried earlier. I personally run 2 front and rear, nothing on the calipers. Most of the team runs 2 that are glued together with only 2 calipers on each side, with springs between the calipers and brakes.

[PBrad]

You can literally soak the discs in oil and they will still work just as good as new. Its all about the special material they are made out of. Some kind of special curcuit board material.

[team_luigis]

what do you mean by changing the spring? do you have a pic of that?
:)

[team_luigis]

i like my clb,but some people beat me in acceleration,they accelerate faster.i am runing the 13 clutchbell the stock one, do they make smaller then that,to have better acceleration,cause i think that its better having alot of acceleration and less top speed cause u only need acceleration,cause theres always jumps curvs corners so u actually need that,
what do you think.
ill show u pics of the 2 tracks.

[PBrad]

Kyosh makes different clutch springs, .9mm, 1mm and 1.1mm, try each and see what you like, you can also use other springs from other companies, fow awhile the Ofna silver springs where the hot set-up untill the 1.1mm springs came out.

[PBrad]

Try the 48t spur gear (stock is 46t). I use it for small tracks. They don't make a 12t but Mugen does, I think that will fit.

[team_luigis]

i was playing on a big street this summer,my car was going ok.but after a while it was accelerating so fast that u couldent imagin how faster it was going then before,when i went home to clean my car because it was dirty,i realise that 2 teeth were gone on the spur gear!
the stock is 46 t
whit the clutchbell 13
it makes 59 togheter
so when i lost 2 t on the spur gear the buggy was accelerating alot faster and it was quick
so it i have something thats makes 57 or 56 togheter it will accelerate fast.

[team_luigis]

ur suggesting me 48 t whit a 13 clutchbell it makes 61,it wont give u a poor acceleration and a big top speed?
:confused:

ps:its fun having fast replys;)
thanks

[PBrad]

it doest work that way, for better acceleration you want a smaller clutch tooth while a larger spur gear. Its a ratio thing, you you divide not add.

[team_luigis]

any suggestions to add on the mp7.5 normal to have good performance,
i bought front torque rod
a kyosho fuel filter
and a small one hobbico
so i use 2
rb o63 pipe,exhaust coupler air filter
clb engine

k2 blue radio plate poste(4)
and the radio plate!
a guy gave them to me.
;)

[team_luigis]

it doest work that way, for better acceleration you want a smaller clutch tooth while a larger spur gear. Its a ratio thing, you you divide not add.

do you have any examples?
thanks brad!

[PBrad]

you ever play with legos? Play with the technic kits if you havent, its very easy to see.

For more power you want to move something slower. One revolution on a 13 tooth clutch is slower than one revolution on a 14 tooth(the outter edges on a 14t are faster anyways). If you have that clutch moving a spur gear, the outside of that gear is moving at the same speed as the outside of the clutch. The key is that the inside of the spur gear is moving at a slower rate than the outside. So in fact if you have a larger outside, witch will always move at the same speed as the spur gear, the inside will move even slower, producing more power, but at the cost of speed.

Get it

[team_luigis]

so for a fast acceleration ur suggestion a 48 whit the stock 13 clutch
46 - 13
48 - 13
46 - 14
48 - 14
46 - 15
48 - 15

[team_luigis]

nah,i never played whit things like that,lego yes but never played or learned things about ratios and all,thats why i am curious of learning and asking questions..:rolleyes: :confused: :) :cool: :D :rolleyes::confused: :eek: :rolleyes:

[hdcchrome]

Any thoughts on the SIX DICS break setup question I ask?

[PBrad]

Give it a shot, and tell us how you like it.

[team_luigis]

i think 2 front and 2 rear brakes are enought,dont u think?
i dont know how the plastic brake will stop the car fast compare to other material..
whay do u think:confused:

[PBrad]

Regan LeBlanc posted this ....

There are cheaper "glass" disks out there, but most of the Kyosho team is running special circut board disks made in england by Mike Cradock. They are tempature stable and of very high quality.
I have found they work better than steel or carbon disks. With them you do not use any pad on the caliper. They are virtualy fuel proof as they work no matter how much gunk may get on them. We are glueing two disks together and putting a spring in between the calipers. One doubled disk for each side. Or you can run 4 disks and more calipers if you want.

Pavidas was doing nose wheelies at the last race they have so much grab!!

It's not a shameless plug...... but they are only available at NRC

I'm using them and all I have to say is wow....

[2Speed]

I have been contemplating buying a K2 for a while now. My only reservation is that Kyosho seems to redesign it every few months and call it a new 'version'. I would like to get the car now and get familiar with it before spring when the outdoor racing starts up again.

I'm concerned that there will be a MP8 or something introduced after the worlds. I don't want my car to be out of date before I even race it.

Thoughts?

[atm92484_3]

If Kyosho makes a new buggy, they'll do it before the worlds (so they can get #6 with it) instead of afterwards. I think the K2 was this change though.

[PBrad]

Kyosho has no plans of a new buggy.

[chris84ae]

Originally posted by team_luigis
so for a fast acceleration ur suggestion a 48 whit the stock 13 clutch
46 - 13
48 - 13
46 - 14
48 - 14
46 - 15
48 - 15

from your list

48 - 13 is the best for acceleration
46 - 15 is the best for top speed

[team_luigis]

Thanks brad and chris i appreciated ur help.
alot of mp7.5 are winning over k2,it just depend on how u tune it and drive it,cause once u bang in the wall whit a new version or a mp7.5 results may be the same.

Im gonna stick whit my mp7 no worth buying a new version its about the same...
and hey... its up to you:rolleyes:

me 2 i think that kyosho will come up whit a new buggie before summer or before or later;)

good NigHT aLL;)

[DR.GT]

Regan Leblanc has said there will be no new models till 2004.
I would believe that statement. He's in the know!

:)

[bigfootmp]

JUST WONDERING WHAT YOU GUYS THINK OF THE KYOSHO PIPE VERSUS THE RB/REX STUFF. I AM RUNNING A O86 ONE PIECE BUT THEY GET TRASHED SO FAST . THOSE KYOSHO PIPES ARE BUILT LIKE TANKS. HOW MUCH PERFORMANCE DIFF DO YOU THINK THERE WILL BE AND WILL THE WEIGHT DIFF MAKE A DIFF? I AM RUNNING A RB W7 ON A 7.5 CHASSIS.

[team_luigis]

hey were are u from i canada?

[team_luigis]

hmm the thread was getting to low,

did anyone try to drive a kanai 1 kanai 2 and mp7.5 on the same spot?

if yes, is there any difference ?

thanks

[PBrad]

If properly set up the standard 7.5 drives the same as the Kanai 1. I have the K1 and K2 and the new 22 degree FHCs rule, more stability and better steering. Thats the only difference though. If the K2 had the same FHCs, the car would feel exactly the same.

[team_luigis]

could i put that option on the mp7.5
how much will it cost.
:) thanks pbrad

[PBrad]

I have a K1 and a K2. Besides the new FHCs, they are completely the same in performance. The K2 will take more of a beating though. Going from the 17 degree to the 22 degree hubs, the 22s give better steering along with better stability.

If the standard 7.5 was set up the same way as the Kanai buggies, it could easily keep up around the track.

The only real difference is how they are set up and durability. The 7.5 can easily and cheaply be set up the same way as the K2 (cept for the LSDs), it's just not quite as durable which only slightly effects performance.

[team_luigis]

do you race ?

[Integra_Type_R]

Does anyone know where i can get a K 2 from in California. I really dont want to order it, i'd rather pick one up so if anyone knows a place that has one in stock let me know. Thanks

[PBrad]

didnt realize I already posted that twice...

I do nothing but race!

Yes you can use the new 22 degree front hub carriers. You will need the carriers, and the upper arms, and I suggest getting the new gold upper rods as well as they will thread deaper into the smaller upper arms.

Im not too sure on the price but I do know that it's cheap.

[team_luigis]

i didnt read all the treads but now i know.
i hope its cheap:D

[NLR]

hi guys,
just got a k2 . Man there are alot of peices to these things eh?
Looking forward to getting this thing running and doing some racing. I went and watched a race for the first time about a week ago and was instantly hooked. Wheew the car was a god amount of money but the rest of the stuff added it up more than the car heheheh. Ah its ok though its alot cheaper than my other stuff I do so Im releived.
Lets see if I can remember the stuff I got.
hyosho pipe
os header
serio motor(newest one)
cant remember the rest sorry.

One question on the diffs there are some 12th gears that have square guides or supports that go around them on two of the diffs. Then there is one that has 10th small gears with no supports just 3mm washers for the back. My question is that they inlcuded enough washers to use on all the diffs but in the instructions is says only to use them on one. Then on the fold out break down sheet it shows front and back and center to use all of them...was this something that was used on the K1 and on the K2 they changed it?
thanks and looking forward to talking with you guys!
seb

[PBrad]

The spyder gears that use the guides do not need the washers, Kyosho just provides extra. They did that with the K1 as well.

[team_luigis]

48/13 =3.69
48/13=3.42
48/15=3.2
46/13=3.53
46/14=3.28
46/15=3.06

so how does it works after u get that
:confused:

[ugman]

Lower Number = Top Speed
Larger Number = Better Acceleration

[team_luigis]

thanks !

[Motorman007]

Here are some of my
Carbon stuff

I got them from a friend of mines in the UK.

http://members.cox.net/ddibble/dna/Untitled-3.gif

http://members.cox.net/ddibble/dna/Untitled-4.gif

http://members.cox.net/ddibble/dna/Untitled-5.gif

http://members.cox.net/ddibble/dna/Untitled-8.gif

http://members.cox.net/ddibble/dna/Untitled-9.gif

[Motorman007]

it need some love but i was racing that weekend.

[team_luigis]

sweet!!!

[PBrad]

I like how you got rid of the eclips on the hinge pins. Is that your own mod or did you buy it somewhere?

All you need is the new front and you're set!

[atm92484_3]

I think those are the Trinity hinge pins. If so how do you like them Motorman?

[rbos]

Hi guys, cool forum.

I am running the 94358 for steering. Does any one know any aftermarket servo arm that will fit this servo well? I'm tired of paying 7 bucks for two airtronics arms. Thanks.

[Motorman007]

PBrad: Before the Trinity hinge pins i had made my own. about a year are so a go. then i seen them on a friend of mines from Japan. and asked where did he get them and he said K-Factory. and i said ship me some. lol but it was going to cost to much so i ask my hobby shop to order me some and 3 days later i had them. and now everyone at the track use them


atm92484_3: and to your ? I LOVE THEM NO E-CLIPS.

rbos: Ofna Horns. will work great had the same one for some time now.

[Motorman007]

yo all i need is the Upper arms and like you said i will be set. i have all the other stuff.

[ultramarv]

I've been reading the post about the new K2 but I am still unsure/unclear about the difs. Please forgive me if I am asking the same questions. What does the "LSD" stand for when refeing to the diffs? What or which is the standard diff? Why should red or black gear oil only be used in the "LSD" Kanai diff? Also, in the instructions it calls for heavier weight shock oils to be used in the shocks... something like 100wt -800wt... is this the same as our 10wt-80wt? As you can tell I am a new comer to the 1/8th scale scene... I figured if I was gonna get into it I should by one of the best. I've been running 1/10th scale on/offroad cars and trucks for about 3 years and do very well at my local track. I really want to get to know my K2 better. Please any help would be greatly appreciated.:confused:

[team_luigis]

when the oil in the shocks have alot of bubles does that mean it neads a rebuild,

and like i said previously they dont come back has fast they were when i bought th mp7.5,
ps:i bought it built so i dont know which oil he put in!

[ugman]

LSD stands for Limited Slip Diff.

[team_luigis]

im sure hes planing out to put a new kanai or mp8
what do u guys think that the new inferno will be call?
mp8 or kanai3

me,im going whit kanai3

[tjs]

When Kyosho comes out with a new buggy it's likely to be called mp8. Kanai 3 would only be a warmed over 7.5.
A new version should have drastic changes to the cars geometry and weight distribution to be called mp8...not that there is anything wrong with the current one.

[PBrad]

"Why should red or black gear oil only be used in the "LSD" Kanai diff?"

Around the spyder gears are these metal guides. As the spyder gears spin fast, the special oil (red or black) sheers between the two of them causing friction. As the gears spin faster, more friction is created. This is how the LSD diffs work. Standard silicone oil will not work properly. The only difference between the red and black oil is that they change the feel. The red oil is of higher quality and creates more friction, making the diff feel slightly stiffer on power.

"Also, in the instructions it calls for heavier weight shock oils to be used in the shocks"

Do you mean higher oil than the K1 or just in general? The shocks have the exact same feel as the older shocks with the same oil. Kyosho also doesn't use the american way of measuring viscosities which is cool because the american way is retarded, its not linear. The standard way is approximately 10 times the value for the same viscosity, its measured in Centi Poise (cps) and not weight(wt).

This is a rough comparasion and not exact but not noticably different either.
100 Cps = 10 WT
150 Cps = 15 WT
200 Cps = 20 WT
275 Cps = 25 WT
350 Cps = 30 WT
425 Cps = 35 WT
500 Cps = 40 WT
You probably shouldnt use anything higher than that for 1/8 scale although viscosities up to 100wt are normal in Touring cars.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by team_luigis
im sure hes planing out to put a new kanai or mp8
what do u guys think that the new inferno will be call?
mp8 or kanai3

me,im going whit kanai3

Man you're ahead of yourself. The Kanai II just came out. I seriously doubt we'll see signs of another car for atleast another 9 months if not a lot longer.

[PBrad]

They wont be coming out with a new buggy for at least a year. Maybe by the 04 worlds they will be out with a new one but thats it.

[team_luigis]

in not even 2 years they did mp7.5 sport mp7.5 normal,kanai1 kanai2

[DR.GT]

team_luigis:

Kyosho will not be coming out with a new car until sometime in 2004. This comes from Regan Leblanc who is Team Manager for the USA. Do not expect one any sooner.

BTW, my Edmonton Eskimos are going to kick butt against your Alouettes in the Grey Cup Game on Sunday!!!!! The West is Best!

:)

[NLR]

hey thanks for the info..finally got the thing built..wheeew..man I thought it was tedious building high powered streetbikes. I cant beleive how many nuts,bolts,plastic peices hahaaha.
What do you guys recommend in terms of preload spacers on the shocks. I have trinity 25 weight in the shocks and a .395 thou preload spacer...dont have a clue about these things its just what the guy said to put in(shop owner)seems like the front end is kinda soft...thanks guys.
oh heres what I do if you guys are interested in power.
www.nlrsystems.com
i cant wait to drive this car.
thanks,
seb

[ugman]

Can someone tell me the part number for the large fuel splash guard. I cant seem to find it anywhere. I'm refering to the one in the picture a few posts ago by Motorman007 and where to get CF parts here in the states. Thanks...

[team_luigis]

do all the part from the new k1 and k2 are convertible for the mp7.5´
i mean will they fit:confused:

[team_luigis]

hmmm good luck .
will se who`s gonna win!

im about sure that montreal is going to win that one,we have like all the best players..

its just a game

[mtracer]

My son is graduating from his Nitro Truck to a 1/8 th buggy...

He wants this Kyosho Inferno MP-7.5 Sport/GS .21R
Is this a good buggy???

How are the parts on this one........do they hold up well??

Im just not sure which buggy to get him....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?
&I=LXANJ1&P=7

[atm92484_3]

The Sports is a good buggy if you're not willing to spend a lot and you want to do some building. Plus it shares the suspension components (which might I add are pretty durable) with the other 7.5s so all the parts are readily available. Be warned though, its going to cost a few dollars if he ever wants to bring it up to the regular 7.5 specs. He would need a chassis, bevel gears in the front and rear, engine mounts and plate, shocks, and 2 more diff gears per diff (unless they've started including these).

[NLR]

here are some pics guys.
seb



http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=nlr&album_id=53737&image_id=33&param=47558

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=nlr&album_id=53737&image_id=34&param=34577

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=nlr&album_id=53737&image_id=35&param=60859

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=nlr&album_id=53737&image_id=36&param=51148

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=nlr&album_id=53737&image_id=37&param=20759

http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=nlr&album_id=53737&image_id=32&param=48479

[PBrad]

You guys have to get one thing straight, the K2 is nearly exactly the same as the standard 7.5 but with different options and stronger parts.

The part number for the big splash guard is IFW-135.

For shock oil weight, start out with 40 in the front and 30 in the rear with the 2 hole 1.4mm pistons or 2x1.3mm pistons. The front should always be slightly stiffer. From that, adjust to how you like it.

The sport is a great buggy. I saw one on the track once and it was moving good. He didnt have the stock engine in there so it was kinda pointless though because he could have just bought the standard kit. This is why I dont recommend the sport kits. It'xs better to just spend a few extra on a quality engine.

[winning edge designs]

Hey all, whats the hot set-up for the 7.5 nowadays. Is everyone pretty much running the stock K2 set-up? How much of a difference do the new castor blocks make? I've always liked more castor on my other cars, does this one respond the same?.....Last, how much rear camber seems to work best on a hard almost grooved but not quite,some sand on top, clay track?.....Thanks,Jim

[team_luigis]

guys whats the 48 spur gear number from kyosho??
i didnt find it anywere,i checked in my manual book,internet,nothing comes out??


thanks

[ultramarv]

Can someone please tell me what the advantage would be to use an after market torque rod (ie Hardcore racing or Racers Edge) instead of the stock tie rod end looking Kyosho set? Would it be to my benefit to buy new torque front/rear braces or just use the standard? Also, what is the proper way to set up the front and rear sway bars? Does tightening the set screw on the rear sway bar mount affect the handling of the buggy? Suggestions on proper sway bar operation would greatly be appreciated.:confused:

[atm92484_3]

I'd suggest getting an aftermarket chassis brace (I went for Hardcore's) since those stock rods have a tendency to flex and the rod will back out of the plastic over time. For the sway bars, the set screws need to be tight. To adjust the stiffness of the bar, move the ballend in (the one that the linkage connects to from the arm) to make it stiffer or move it out to make it softer.

[winning edge designs]

ultrmarv, The aftermarket, or machined aluminum chassis braces won't wear and get sloppy after a few races like the ballcup setup will. Plus it is more ridgid, since your eliminating the plastic flex.
For the away bar I snug the set screw in until the bar tightens, then back it off until the bar can drop on it's own wieght. This should be the tightest setting, since it is the tightest no drag adjustment. If the set screws are adjusted any tighter, the sway bar will in effect add to the spring stiffness, but not reduce roll/sway by getting help from the other side as it's designed. A sway bar that can't pivot doesn't transfer weight like it should, since it becomes seperated once it can't pivot freely.....Hope this helps, Jim

[philadater]

www.twf8.ws

I think you guys will find this page interesting, any feedback would be great.

Philip M

[winning edge designs]

That page looks great. Interesting to see Kyosho finishing 1,2,3 at the warm up and 6 in the A main. Saxton and Pavidas didn't make it though. Of course Mark came in on Friday for gas nats and ended up 3rd with no practice..........Jim

[ultramarv]

I am putting together the front end of my K2 and have a question. When I have tried to mount the upper suspension arms to the steering knuckle I have to force them together almost 3/8th to 1/2 an inch. The captured ball end sits away from the steering knuckle... is this right? I have disassembled and reassembled the whole front end 3 times and the result is the same. Seems that if you have to force the upper suspension arm and the steering knuckle it puts stress on the assembly and cjhanges the caster angle. Please any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

[PBrad]

You are using the wrong upper arms. The kit comes with the old and the newer short ones. You can only use the short ones (angled back more) for everything to properly fit.

[Epinephrine]

Does the K2 come with metal chassis brases or does it use the tye rod type?

[PBrad]

It uses the tie rod type, the same as th K1.

[Epinephrine]

thats ****** ***. u pay 800 for a kit and it comes with rtr type tie rods. what a rip

[OldskoolGT]

Hey all.

I am building my new KE 2 and have a question:

Does the paper gasket do a good job of sealing the diffs, or should I use some silicone sealent as well?

Epinephrine,

it does kinda stink that it comes with those cheesy torque rods, but the alternative is buying a different brand buggy. And that is a pretty awful alternative. BTW, the KE2 doesn't cost $800. Many places sell them for under $650 in the US, and much less than that in Japan, HK, or Taiwan.

[winning edge designs]

All anyone needs anyhow is the 7.5 kit, another set of universals for the rear (most use front since they're longer) and some chassis braces from Hardcore, racers edge, or Team Blue star, etc. Some racers here have put together a package like this for $525 or so. I found after talking with top Kyosho drivers that they almost all use the standard diffs and even the regular 3mm shocks on thier cars anyway!...............Jim

[Epinephrine]

THe paper gasket does juse fine. All that gasget does is keep the oil from getting to the screws. there are two o-rings that seal the diff where the outdrives come in the diff.

[OldskoolGT]

Hey all,

Do we really need seperate forums for the different versions of the 7.5? How about we just all post in the "Kyosho Inferno MP 7.5" forum from now on?