Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai I/II Forum

[98vols]

Anyone know where I can find some color side/stone guards for my k2?? sure would look good with some flo green stone guards

[Hobbytown Racer]

98vols, Ofna has them. I think there for the 9.5 but not sure.

[PBrad]

Yes, Ofna doeshave them and they are a direct fit onto the 7.5.

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

HEy guys, congrats to your car! Greg Degani just took 1st place in the IFMAR 1/8 Off-Road World Championship.

[Epinephrine]

LETS GET THIS FORUM GOING PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad: :rolleyes: :( :eek:

[sean68]

i am looking to get a KE2, and a RZ V01b... i was just wondering what u guys think would be a good header/pipe combo for this engine? maybe any other pointers for a guy about to build this kit! thanks!

[OldskoolGT]

I think the OS T-2050 pipe would work real well with the VO1B.

I would suggest using a flathead M3 machine screws for the diffs. And get some Racer's Edge chassis braces. That's pretty much all the stuff that needs to be adressed, the buggy works well outta the box.

BTW, most of the KE2 discussion goes on in the "regular" 7.5 Inferno forum.

[rbos]

I have tried most of the pipes with my OS engine. 086, t-2050, 053 and 086 with waller adapter. The 086 waller combo will give you most torque. I also run the same combo on the RB C5 buggy. It also give the engine more torque. The diff btwn the 086 and the 053 is not a whole lot. I'm going to try the t-2050 with the adapter and see if there is any diff. Will keep you posted. By the way, I have a brand new OS v-01 b for sale at $235 + shipping if you are interested. :)

[philadater]

Take a look at the new 1/8 Offroad Page
www.neo-buggy.net

[ultramarv]

Do any of you guys have any feedback on the Ofna pipe part # 10077? This is the pipe I want to use on my K2. I am using an OS RZ .21 Vo1b. Please any and all comments welcomed.

[DR.GT]

ultramarv:

I have only heard of 3 pipes that work well with the V01B.

RB 9886
T-2050
Megatech MTCSA201

I have used the 86 and megatech and they work excellent with the V01b. Better milage with the megatech. The T-2050 is a quiet pipe and excellent as well (World Champion I believe).

:)

[offroadcrazy01]

where can I a t- 2050 pipe on line

[ugman]

Here is a link to the t-2050

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBPK8&P=7

[skyrydr]

I am waiting for my K2 to show up ,I can wait as my regular 7.5 has smoked every at the tracks I have run on ,even whipped a couple of K1's and a Mugen , all others are toys compaired to the Kyoshos and Mugens .I've been racing 1/8th buggies since '93
and have tried them all ,Kyosho definately has something good !
I just aquired an OS rzv01b and was wondering what pipe works the best for this motor ? (Usually run Nova's or Picco's ) ???

[tjtracer]

hey guys,,i am runnning a gs storm,,,,,i have been told that the bulkhead from the mp 7.5 will fit it........if any of you know please lmk..thanks ........tim

[qurve]

Thought I would bring this forum back up and ask a question

I'm going to be purchasing a Inferno MP 7.5 soon and have been reviewing the instructions online at kyosho.com. When going over the directions, I see a lot of areas where it shows a tapping screw going into the area. I always pictured that the screw comes out and a regular screw then goes in it's place, but, however, when looking, I don't see them mention putting another screw in, it's as if the tapping screw stays in.

Is this the case, or am I misjudging the directions? I can't seem to find out. This is my only question right now.

Thank you.
Rob.

[skyrydr]

qurve , I just finished my K2 and that is how they go ,the screw they show is the one that goes in the hole ,no tapping screws with Kyosho , The Infernos go together great, just pay very close attention to the assembly of the diffs and ring and pinion back-lash if you get this wrong it will either bind and ruin it or have to much play between the teeth and also ruin it .
Good Luck ,Skyrydr

[winning edge designs]

qurve, the kyosho kits, as almost all 1/8th buggies come with self tapping screws in alot of the car. Most of the seasoned racers replace them with machine thread screws. Reason being they stay tighter, tighten further and usually come with allen heads....which are more popular in the U.S......Either will work, but of course the sport buggy will work also, and we all want the Kanai, so there goes that theory, LOL!.......I'm using a screw set put together by Fender Bender fasteners...Jim

[HyperActive]

I have a Kyosho Inferno MP-7.5 Sport/GS .21R
Im trying to find the setting for the low speed needle.
Kyosho has the following listed for thier engine.

Do you know what they mean by the shoulder of the needle??


Carb. settings:
High Speed: 2-1/2 Turns out from closed
Low Speed: Shoulder of needle will be flush to the inside of the barrel of carb.

[winning edge designs]

Hyperactive, they are talking about the top outer edge. aka shoulder........Here >______ I_screw head_I ______

Hope this helps, Jim

[Justin Phillips]

skyrydr

I have the OS rzv01b also and from the research I did I purchased the RB 086 Off Road One Peice Racing Pipe. The gas goes a little quicker with it but the power and speed it gives combined with the OS engines is saposed to be awesome. I have also heard the Metatech pipes work good and also the OS pipes. The really good OS pipe is the 2050 (i think that is what it is) but it is imposible to find.

[Gstankybird]

not sure about the t2050 but i do see a lot of people running them with the os engines, have you seen the new os motor, it looks like a nova rossi with 4 bolts on the head instead of 6 also was wondering if anyone is using the rb2006 pipe which looks like a 086 but triple chambered

[ugman]

This is what I plan on running in my KII as far as engine and pipe goes.

WS7 w/ 063 Pipe

The only question I have is should I run the long manifold or the short one?

[r/cman]

I have heard that OS makes a harden 2050 pipe. It's suppose to have a harden finish that makes it harder to dent. Is there any truth to this? And where can you get one?
Thanks.

[offroadcrazy01]

I got one off e-bay I must have looked all over for it. took me a month to find it. I had bought a t-2030 now am going to sale it

[OldskoolGT]

r/cman,

The T-2050 pipe has a regular polished finish to it. It is a durable pipe because it is not made of buttersoft aluminum like some other pipe brands. Mine still looks new after 3 weekends of racing. Ebay is probably the only place you will find this pipe now.

[nad138]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
I got one off e-bay I must have looked all over for it. took me a month to find it. I had bought a t-2030 now am going to sale it

How much are you selling it for ?

I have a stupid question :p
What are the main differences between the MP7.5 inferno from the Kanai, and the Kanai from the Kanai II ? Appreciate it.

[offroadcrazy01]

45.00 bucks for my t- 2030 pipe morfeeis@aol.com brand new in bag

[offroadcrazy01]

The kanai has all kinds of upgrades check out www.towerhobbies.com

[r/cman]

Thanks for all the help on the OS 2050 pipe. I found one on Ebay. It's a good looking pipe, can't wait to try it out.
Thanks again.
R/C Man

[tomdav]

Does anyone know who has k2's in stock?
:confused:

[ugman]

Looks like Acehardware Hobbies has the KII in stock.

http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=18_19&products_id=3420

[Gord]

Does anyone Know if there is a black wing for the inferno.
Gord

[michael newson]

Does any one no where i can get a Kanai II manual from. Is there any web sites that has it. I went to kyosho website but they only have the inferno mp 7.5 manual.

[DR.GT]

Michael newson;

There are some available on ebay!

[Synthetic]

Beware of TJTRACER as he is ripping people off!

[WESMEL]

HEY GUYS. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN PURCHASE AN
O'DONNELL HEAD FOR A O.S. VO1B.

[bad viking]

Hi
I am thinking about getting a Kanai 2.
Is it realy worth the extra cash?
I also want an OS engine 4 it, witch should I buy?
RZ / V01B
How good must my steering servo be?
I got the 200oz from Airtronics, will that do?
Witch inserts should I use?

Now that was a lot of questions!!
I hope to get one in a month or two, so please answer this fast!

Bad Viking

[WESMEL]

BAD VIKING-YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED WITH THE K2. ALSO FOR A COUPLE DOLLARS LESS YOU COULD GET THE NEW MUGEN MBX-5, WHICH IS IDENTICAL TO THE K2. FOR THE ENGINE THE O.S.
VO1B IS EXCELLENT. FOR THE SERVOS YOU ARE RIGHT ON TRACK WITH THE AIRTRONICS 200oz.

[nad138]

K2 is pretty good. I've also eyeballed an MBX5 from a rcca editor and he showed me changes from previous xrs and it's nowhere near similar to a K2. Which ever one you choose, it's going to be a winner.


- nad

[metal gear]

I need new brake pads for my Kanai 2. Where can I get them? I would just like to get the pads if possible. What is the part #? Could someone post a link to anywhere online that I can get them? Thanks

[ugman]

metal gear: Here is a link to the brake pads. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNB57&P=Z

[metal gear]

ugman, that is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks. Just wondering, it says MP6, do you think it will work for the Kanai 2?

[ugman]

yeah they are the same...

[metal gear]

great, I will order them as soon as they get back in stock. Thnx

[metal gear]

I plan on upgrading the front and rear torque rods on my K2. I may get Fioroni, Racer's Edge, or Team Bluestar. Will it screw/bolt on directly w/o mods using the same mounting hardware? I heard that these upgraded rods do not come w/ any mounting hardware. Will the ones on my stock K2 work?

[98vols]

metalgear: hey I would agree to upgrade the torque rods. I have not seen the racers edge or the blue stars but I did not like the fioroni for two reasons. They color blue is different from the other blue allum on the kII and second there not threaded you run a screw thru them then add a nut on the other end and it is kinda akward installing them and removing them. My father bought them for his kII. They perform great and everything just didn't like those two things. Some you might want to consider are the Trinity K-factory which are the ones I bought. They are great same blue, threaded, look great, and there priced right as well here is a link to each brace

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=k8019&FVPROFIL=++

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=k8020&FVPROFIL=++

[metal gear]

ok, I think I may get those. However, they are currently out of stock for the front rods. 98vols, how are they holding up (screws and braces) on your Kanai 2? Do you bash or race?

[98vols]

They are holding up great. I race my kII if i am going to bash I usually break out my hyper 7. As for tower being out of the braces. I just found out you can buy direct from Trinity via Shopatron. And the prices blow towers out of the water. I just picked out a set of the K-Factory Hardened hinge pin kits for 33.00 and they have both the front and rear braces for 18.90 ea and both show instock. You can find all of the k-factory parts if you go to teamtrinity.com and click on accessorys and then k-factory it will bring up a pop-up page with a list of the parts they have some pretty trick stuff. I don't know if you have ever looked at the Fioroni center diff housing which allows removal of the center diff with out removing the whole set up it is real trick any way My father has one in each of his 7.5 s and they are nice but they only have cut out slot for the brake rotor and they are 129.00 well k-factory has one that looks identical but it has two rotor slots for the quad brake set up and it is only 63.00. I will link the braces below

http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=TRNK8020/158.0

http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=TRNK8019/158.0

[metal gear]

excellent. Thanks. I will be getting those trinity parts. Speaking of brakes, and since you race, have you ever heard of Cradock (?) brakes. I read somewhere that the pros use them. Also, pads are not necessary, only the metal calipers. I am in need of some brakes as my pads are worn out, but I would rather get what the pros use instead of replacing the pads.

[98vols]

Tons of the pros use those brakes and live by them. But at the same time they also say that the Stock brakes that come with the K II are great. I don't have a problem with the stock brakes but I am nowhere near a Pro I mearly run club racing around my home town. I don't know if you have ever checked it out before but there is a great message board over at sgrid.com all the pros are on the message board and are more than willing to share set-ups, help, and experiences with parts and set-ups they have tried. it is nice. But the site is alittle hard to navigate but once you get use to it it's ok.

[metal gear]

do you know where I can get the Cradock(?) brakes?

[OldskoolGT]

The Craddock brakes do not stop better than the K2 brakes. However they do maintain their performance if they get wet which is their big advantage over regular brakes.

I don't know of any place to get the Craddock brakes since National RC shut down.

[metal gear]

I guess I will be running K2 brakes.

[go1d1e]

Cradock breaks? I`ve never heard of them, but I know there is a big driver in england named Mike Cradock, so maybe there is a connection.. he is invovled with www.three5models.co.uk

I think thats the address.. the name of the store is three 5 models though.. I used to get all my parts through them a few years ago.

[metal gear]

yeah, that's him. I e-mailed the site and asked about the brakes. We'll see what they have to say. Thanks

[go1d1e]

They make a few of their own options. I know I have seen a specially durable wheel or something. And their own design splash gaurd..

Those english always trying to design stuff.. :D

[Accord]

Hey guys, where is the cheapest online store to buy a Kanai 2? I heard there were some stores selling them for around $580 but the best prices I can find are about $680.

Thanks

[NoleC5]

Other than upgrading to the Kanai shocks, are there any other options for me to upgrade the shocks on my Inferno Sport??

Thanks

[LannyT]

Originally posted by Accord
Hey guys, where is the cheapest online store to buy a Kanai 2? I heard there were some stores selling them for around $580 but the best prices I can find are about $680.

Thanks

TryUltimate Hobby in CA. http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//index.html

Picked mine up for $619. Also had the best prices on OS & RB. Good luck.

Lanny T

[Accord]

Originally posted by LannyT
TryUltimate Hobby in CA. http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//index.html

Picked mine up for $619. Also had the best prices on OS & RB. Good luck.

Lanny T

They list it as $750 :(.

[OldskoolGT]

Give them a call. They don't list their actual sales price on the internet.

[Accord]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
Give them a call. They don't list their actual sales price on the internet.

Ahhh, ok... thanks :).

[rcpilot]

Does anyone know the difference between the Regular mp-7.5 buggy and the Kanai 1 edition? I'm buying a used buggy and just want to make sure I get the actual Kanai one. It doesn't list it anywhere on the kyosho site.

Also, what upgrades from the Kanai 2 would be worth putting on to the buggy?

Thanks for anyhelp.

[rcpilot]

Does anyone know the difference between the Regular mp-7.5 buggy and the Kanai 1 edition? I'm buying a used buggy and just want to make sure I get the actual Kanai one. It doesn't list it anywhere on the kyosho site.

Also, what upgrades from the Kanai 2 would be worth putting on to the buggy?

Thanks for anyhelp.

[OldskoolGT]

Look for full turnbuckles and universal axles everywhere.

Also the Kanai has blueish-purple aluminum parts while the regular 7.5 has gold colored parts IIRC.

[Raydee]

Hey guys Right now I have a regular 7.5 with a ton of K2 upgrades on it but I want to change my Hub carries over to the 22 degree ones that come on the K2. What other parts will I need to change? What degree carrier's come on the Regular 7.5 anyway?

[uDi_MP75]

The regular ones are 18 degrees. You will need the new hub carriers, as well as new kanai2 upper arms. If you want, the latest hyper7 hubs are exactly the same (i wont go into whether they are the exact same part or not...), ofna claims they are 20 degrees, but on the hub you'll find the no. 22. So if you can get those hyper7 ones for cheaper, or if they are more available or whatever, get them instead of the kyosho labeled ones.

Correct me if im wrong but im quite sure.. just a tip. Either way you will need the new upper arms as well as the carriers, and id suggest getting the kanai2 long turnbuckles to go with them too.

uDi
- back after a long break from rczone.... my old account cut out or something so i set up a new one. Haven't been here since last year... october'ish I think

[Gord]

Hi
I am wondering if anyone can email me Yuichi Kanai's setup sheet or tell me where I can get it from. I tried getting it off Kyosho's site but it won't come up for some reason, something about needing to update the Japanese language program, tried that but it won't work.
Thanks
Gord
lakesend@memlane.com

[metal gear]

try www.nitrocross.com

[Gord]

Thank you

[NoleC5]

I recently bought a set of Kanai II shocks for my Inferno sport. I've put them together but don't understand the rubber "sock" thing that goes over the shock shaft. This thing only seems to restrict the movement of the shock. Do you Kanai guys really use these things? Am I missing something? Coudl I possibly be installing them incorrectly??

Thanks

[metal gear]

it keeps the dirt out from the shock shaft and keeps the oil clean. This allows the shocks to work in any condition

[uDi_MP75]

and it shouldnt feel like they are restricting the shock at all..... my shocks feel pretty much the same - with or without the rubber boots.
like said above - use them, they keep your shafts clean, shiney and scratch-free forever. :p

[uDi_MP75]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Those english always trying to design stuff.. :D

lol.... agreed to some extent... but I think Japan gets much less credit than deserved in this category. If it wasn't for smart blokes like Yuichi, or companies like Kyosho, those english bums wouldn't have much to design hopups for. ;)

And our smart ( :rolleyes: ) friends in taiwan and china (hmm hongnor... hobao... GV... GS?...) wouldn't have much to copy from either.

Just thought i'd throw in a word for those hard working fellows. Kind of sad that they are out sourcing all their work to cheaper-labour countries, because imo (although they have improved over the years) they still can't match those j@p boys in product quality. Maybe its just me, but while my Taiwanese/[insert other non-japanese asian country here] products occasionally break or fail those old japanese goodies which are usually much older, just keep on tickin' :)

completely off topic though, and just blabbing. sorry. :o

[ugman]

Well its finally done. I picked up my radio yesterday. This was the last piece of the puzzle to install. Here is a little list of what I have on my KII

RB Concept C5 Buggy Engine
RB Long Manifold (1351-12P)
RD Logic Exhaust Pipe System (61800)
Waller Racing Power Adapter (WALWE5501)
Lunsford Racing Titanium Hinge Pin Kit
Lunsford Racing Titanium Turnbkl Inferno MP7.5 Kanai Ed
Futaba S9451 Servo Digital High Speed/Torque
Futaba S9350 Digital Servo
Futaba 3PK 3-Channel FM/No Servos

Hope to break it in this weekend. There are some other misc. things but these are the important parts. I'll post some pics later...

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by uDi_MP75
and it shouldnt feel like they are restricting the shock at all..... my shocks feel pretty much the same - with or without the rubber boots.
like said above - use them, they keep your shafts clean, shiney and scratch-free forever. :p

Are there any alternatives to using these? For some reason, when I put these boots on, it really restricts teh movement. Personally, I think they suck.

[ugman]

you can get some shock socks... I cant remember the website for them though... Maybe someone else will remember.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by ugman
you can get some shock socks... I cant remember the website for them though... Maybe someone else will remember.

Thanks, if anyone knows this website, can you please let me know.....hobbytown by my house only has shock socks for 1/10th scales, not 1/8th :(

Oh, and while I'm on this subject, any recommondations for oil in these shocks? I have 35 and 40, but not sure which to put where.

[ugman]

I use 35 and 40 wght oil as well. Here is a link to some setup pages that might be of some use for you...

http://www.reckward.de/RC_Car_Setup_s/Setup_Off-Road/setup_off-road.html

[NoleC5]

How about the shock socks? Anyone know who carries these for 1/8th scales?

[go1d1e]

these wont fit? they look big enough..

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134421&highlight=shock+socks


how about...

Eb@y Item number: 3139616754

i quote

You are bidding on 8 NEW in package
Racers Edge Blue Shock Shocks.
(set of 8)
Fits ALL Models of T Maxx (2.5) and E Maxx
Will work on 1/10th scale and 1/8th scale shocks.



hope that helps..

[turbochrgdRICE]

here yah go...

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=SOK&man=Socks4shocks

[RCisLife]

I just bought a used OS V01B for $100 bucks.. do you guys think its worth spending another $100 dollars or so to replace the Piston and Sleeve when the compression on this puppy goes bad?? Or should I just save and buy a new engine? Any suggestions is appreciated.

This is engine is for my Kyosho 7.5 that I also bought used.

[r/cman]

I bought a new piston and sleeve off ebay for 80.00. Thanks cheaper than Tower sells it. Hope this helps.

[OldskoolGT]

You can try getting the sleeve squeezed by osrocket for $20 when the there is no longer compression. Its a cheap alternative to buying a new P/S that can sometimes bring new life back into a worn out engine.

[stealthpenguin]

Nole, don't get shock-socks.

These are much better and are cheaper: http://www.rc10gthobby.com/shk_savers.htm

[stealthpenguin]

I just got this MP 7.5 Kanai off of eBay, and have since then made it RTR.

I still have to break-in the engine, I tried once but the stock plug died. = (

Stats: http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/rc.htm
Pics: http://benjimo.home.comcast.net/pics.htm

http://benjimo.cjb.net

Tell me what you think!

[metal gear]

too clean

[stealthpenguin]

lol, I haven't broken in the engine yet!

= P

[MPALLTHEWAY]

Hey guys I just found cradock brakes at www.Ratzas.net I think they are the same ones that National RC use to sell.

[metal gear]

are those the thick onesor skinny ones?

[NoleC5]

Has anyone had any issue or have any tricks for getting the gear mesh right on a kyosho buggie? I recently bought the kanai flywheel setup and motor mounts and installed them on my inferno sport. The gear mesh is okay, but I think it could be a little tighter. But the way the motor is mounted, it will not move any closer to the spur gear. Any tips here??

[ugman]

You can use the old paper trick... Seems to work for me. Just put a piece of paper between the teeth and tighten it down...

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by ugman
You can use the old paper trick... Seems to work for me. Just put a piece of paper between the teeth and tighten it down...

That is kind of the problem, I can't get the motor to move any closer to the spur gear??? Am I missing something here? When I put the paper through it now, I do get a nice little acordinan effect, but I'd still like it to be a little tighter.

I'm wondering if it matters which side of the motor you put the motor mounts on or possibly the spacer plates? But they look the same to me.

[go1d1e]

Is it the standard spur gear? how many teeth?
how about the clutch bell? 13t 14t?

If all else fails, you can dremel out a little material from teh motor mount to get it closer..

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Is it the standard spur gear? how many teeth?
how about the clutch bell? 13t 14t?

If all else fails, you can dremel out a little material from teh motor mount to get it closer..

Well, the inferno sport comes with a 46 tooth plastic spur gear which I have replaced with a 46 tooth metal spur gear. I also have the Kanai II clutch bell with 13 tooth.

Someone at my LHS suggested the dremel option, but I'm scared to do this. I think I would have to dremel more room in the chasis holes in order to get it closer.

[NoleC5]

While I have some active readers, I thought I'd ask another question. I have the Kanai II shocks on my inferno sport buggie and have noticed that the front shocks don't like to spring back up when pushed down. They come about half way back up, and that is all. Is this normal? I have the "light blue" kyosho springs with 40 wt in the front and 35 in the rear.

[OldskoolGT]

You need to run about 15mm worth of pre-load spacers with the K2 shocks and blue springs to get the ride height right.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
You need to run about 15mm worth of pre-load spacers with the K2 shocks and blue springs to get the ride height right.

For the 15mm, is this just the one "big" spacer, or should there be more?

[go1d1e]

Add the spacers until you get the rebound to the desired height..

i run the clamp type spacer, and have the suspension arms about level when it is rebound..

[NoleC5]

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing here? In the picture, if you look at the upper A Arm, it appears that it does not fit properly on the "knuckly housing". I currently have an inferno sport, but the knuckles and housing are both Kanai II parts.

I'm wondering if the upper A Arm is different on a Kanai also? B/C these are not lining up correctly, I'm think this is binding my shocks and not allowing them their full range of motion. If something were bent out of shape, would it cause this?



http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/3084/404105_0505.JPG

[go1d1e]

Oh yea.. the KII has different upper arms, and also slightly longer driveshafts..

That would definately cause some binding :)

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Oh yea.. the KII has different upper arms, and also slightly longer driveshafts..

That would definately cause some binding :)

So is it safe to assume that if I change the upper A Arms to the Kanai II A Arms that they will then line up correctly with the hubs? I went ahead and ordered the A Arms but I'm not sure if this will correct the alighnment issue in the picture.

[go1d1e]

Although i haven`t tried it myself, i`m sure it will fix the problem.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Although i haven`t tried it myself, i`m sure it will fix the problem.

I actually got the parts in yesterday (kanai ii uper a arms) and they did in fact correct the problem. Thanks for all the help. This weekend I get to repalce my crappy inferno sport chasis with the kanai ii chasis.....fun fun

[MPALLTHEWAY]

The K2 parts you are refering to are the 20 and 22 degree front caster hubs. they require the correct upper a-arm which you found out. THey will give you more turn in at the apex of the corner allowing you dive in under the other buggies. Have fun with them. Nothing beats going in hot chasing someone only to dive in under them for a pass while they push to the outside of the corner!!! :D

[Godspeed]

Hey guys, is it still advisable to get the kanai 2 now when kyosho's gonna release the MP8 soon? Will there be a problem getting parts after discontinuation of the kit? Thanks.

[go1d1e]

Up until last month, i had a 10 yr old kyosho buggie I could still get parts for..

Wheres the info on this "MP-8"? I`d love to see something official

[OldskoolGT]

7.5 parts should be plentiful for a long time. You can still get lots of MP 6 parts at Tower Hobbies.


Kyosho will probably keep quiet about the next generation buggy until its ready to go. If they start to talk about the buggy now, it will hurt 7.5 sales.

[NoleC5]

Originally posted by Godspeed
Hey guys, is it still advisable to get the kanai 2 now when kyosho's gonna release the MP8 soon? Will there be a problem getting parts after discontinuation of the kit? Thanks.

You can't make a post like this and not give details, we need more info on the "MP8"!!! :D

With regards to the hubs, I raced for the second time this weekend and you are right, they did alow me to dive in underneath a lot of cars in the turns, very sweet. Although I was only able to finsh 3 of the 4 races (break downs), I did finish the B main and came in 3rd, on the lead lap!!

[uDi_MP75]

I'd hate to dissapoint, but i've heard theres another Kanai Evolution (something thats been on a diet, to stack up to the X5 perhaps) before a new platform gets released. Only something I heard, but it makes sense to milk as much money as they can out of the 7.5 platform, esepecially considering that even the latest offerings from the best competition is based on the same platform...

I'd take a bet on the fact that the next Inferno will be an MP9.

Think about it. MP8 would mean 0.5 steps up, meaning the buggy would be virtually the same as the 7.5.
MP8.5 would mean a few decent changes, but still upgradeable from the previous like MP5>MP6.
Whereas MP9 would be a totally new platform (1.5 up) like the MP7.5 was, with very little in common with the previous buggies. So lets all cross our fingers and hope for an MP9, ive been kinda put off by the fact that everything is exactly the same these days... just a little monotonous.

[uDi_MP75]

Okay after some quick research out of my own interest, it looks like our next Inferno will be titled MP8.5.

http://autorcwebcanal.free.fr/2000/html/oldnews.htm

Notice the bullet point
"EXCLUSIF : les premières photos du Kyosho MP8.5!!!"
In english
"EXCLUSIVE: first photographs of Kyosho MP8.5 !!!"

The link doesn't work otherwise i'd post more info, but if anyone has time it might be worth looking for those 'lost' pictures. I'm sure they are floating around.

Of course, it may have been a simple typo too (some frenchie pressin 8 instead of 7), considering the page is titled "Old news" and most of the news there is actually quite old...

[uDi_MP75]

MP8.5 It is. :D

http://www.automodelisme.com/article.php?thold=-1&mode=flat&order=1&sid=418#186

in somewhat readable english -
"is since time that it was awaited, Yuchi Kanai finally raised the veil on the substitute of the MP7.5 Champion of the world. The new car Inferno MP 8.5 will be ultra light, 3,1 kg in load, the masses more lowered even, the lowered engine of 2 mm, platinizes it gone down 5 mm, the frame inrayable, the differentials even smaller will be out of magnesium alloy, the ammortisseurs with gas!! In short one nouveautée total! Photographs of world exclusivenesses on this site! Click on the Continuation..."

Someone find me those pics or I will go crazy. What does "Poisson d'avril, avec la complicite' de" mean? Maybe it means "image not found" or something like that.

uDi

[go1d1e]

Come on udi.. figure it out :p


I`ll give you a clue.. avril = April...

[colinradford]

Originally posted by uDi_MP75
Poisson d'avril, avec

"April Fish", French version of "April Fool".

[uDi_MP75]

Oh great. I just kiss-assed those french-fries.
You may now all commence laughing.

For anyone that is actually reading this thread for info, lets just say I got fooled by last-years-april-fools-joke and ignore my above two posts. The first post however (of the three consecutive posts), is not french-fry BS, its my opinion and speculation.

[RCisLife]

Hello everyone,
I own an Inferno 7.5 regular kit that I bought used off a friend for cheap! ($75.00) and now I would like to know Where and How much will these two engines + their Piston & Sleeve will cost me:

1). O.S. .21 V01B + (Piston & Sleeve)

2). RB WS7II + (Piston & Sleeve)

I want to purchase these two engines and I'm looking for deals. Where have many of you guys purchased yours from? and how much is the lowest price I can get a hold of these engines?
Do any of you know of any good Websites for reference? Any help you guys can give, I'll appreciate.

Thanks again for your help in other circumstances.

[3XNTRunner]

Can anyone tell me the difference between the Kanai 1 and Kanai II buggy? I see that the Kanai II is about $749.00 does anyone know what the Kanai 1 is selling for? Just wondering if it is woth getting the Kanai II or just upgrading the necessary parts for the Kanai 1.

Thanks

[OldskoolGT]

3XNTRunner,

The K2 has improved shock towers, 3.5 mm shocks, 22 degree front hub carriers, longer front universals, better splash guard, and some other things I can't think of. Its definitely worth getting over the K1 IMHO.

At this point, I think its unlikely that you would find a new K1 kit. And if you are looking for a K2 kit, give Ultimate Hobbies a call, they have the best price on K2 kits, much lower than $750.

[uDi_MP75]

you can get a brand new K2 kit from hong-kong online hobby stores for around 550-570us + shipping.

[Gord]

I am wondering what is the best chassis for the 7.5?
Thanks
Gord

[offroadcrazy01]

You can find the os at www. towwerhobbies.com And the ws7 at www.ace-hobbies.com

[OldskoolGT]

The trickest aftermarket chassis are made by Fioroni. They have a super stiff 4.5 mm chassis, and a more conventional 3mm chassis. Both are extensively machined.

[PBrad]

You can't get Craddock brakes anymore. Too bad because they are my favorite.... super consistant even when you pitman refuels before you stop when pitting.

[OldskoolGT]

Did Craddock quit making his brakes?

[philadater]

First of all you can get Craddock brakes here www.ratzas.net

Secondly all the talk of the MP8 can be silenced now, the next edition of buggy from Kyosho may be found HERE (http://www.neo-buggy.net).
http://www.neo-buggy.net/kanai3.jpg




No MP8 but a Kanai 3

[KanaiDude]

Hey Gang, I'm brand new to this board, but have been racing for some time. I gotta redoo my 7.5 diffs, and just wanted to double check what you all fill yours with.. I was going to go 7000 front 5000 center and 1000 or 3000 in the rear , does that sound about right? Was also redooing my shocks, was thinking like 500 wieght, with large spacer up front and small one in the rear? thanks guys... I was just reading some threads, and I read the one on the chasis, The fioroni ones are very sweet, the only other thing I have seen, well i just bought a JT chassis and its just as nice as the fioroni, but I think these are the only 2 choices for 7.5 right now, I have yet to see a HCR chassis. Thanks in advance.............

[go1d1e]

I set up my diffs with 5000 up front, 7 or 10k in the middle, and grease or 1000 in the back..

shocks I had 40wt all round, i hear the blue springs are the way to go for most tracks, and the ride height to make the driveshafts even/level..

[uDi_MP75]

Yay another dumb hopped up version of the MP7.5. :rolleyes:

Even me, the pro-kyosho freak has had enough of these pathetic slightly hopped up versions. Like some mugen freak said a while ago in some big kyosho/mugen debate, do what mugen does and offer the new parts as hopups instead of making a new kit. Come on, it's been plenty enough time for Kyosho to get a new design on the market... they are sure taking they're good old sweet time on this one.

One international/team driver edition is enough, after that, give us a new kit. Or at least work on one. Kyosho rests on their laurels while Mugen copies and jumps into winning circles.

I doubt anyone will agree with all of the above... but that's what I think!

[OldskoolGT]

I say let Kyosho take their time and hopefully the next generation Kyosho won't be as problem plagued as the Mugen. 2004 is most likely when we will see the next generation buggy. And what winning circles are you talking about Mugen jumping into? The K2 is still the buggy to beat in the USA and Europe.


I like the fact that Kyosho makes new parts for the 7.5. If they quit developing the buggy right after the 7.5 came out, it would not be the high performance buggy we have today. Other manufacturers just keep building their buggies the same way, year after year with the same crappy suspension geometry. When Yuichi Kanai finds something works better, Kyosho makes those parts availiable to us, and our buggies work better.

[fearsome]

Originally posted by philadater
First of all you can get Craddock brakes here www.ratzas.net

Secondly all the talk of the MP8 can be silenced now, the next edition of buggy from Kyosho may be found HERE (http://www.neo-buggy.net).
http://www.neo-buggy.net/kanai3.jpg




No MP8 but a Kanai 3

I reckon that picture is a fake.....why?
Kanai no longer uses RB engine...why does that picture show a RB WS7?
If it was real and a current prototype KE3 it would have a sirio engine bolted in...if not he would have some serious problems with his sponsorship with sirio.....Guys that I race with that are sponsored by RB would basically lose their sponsorship if caught with a different engine bolted in their car!

[=[flame]=]

thats been edited in photoshop. look at the last line in III the third one is different to the other two.

[KanaiDude]

Nice Spot Flame, us photoshoppers can see that a mile away... Hey gang another diff fluid question, why does kyosho make the weights in 10000 through 50000, i bought a few of these by accident from tower, i wanted the 1000 and 5000, strange to me why they would make fluid with such a heavy weight, thanks...

[OldskoolGT]

Those heavier oils are for touring cars and really old buggies. I think the setup for old Infernos was something like #30,000 oil in the center diff.

Here are some of the details for the K3 from the sgrid:

Special Parts of Kanai Edition III
l Light Weight 7075 Chassis!!(40g lighter)IFW151
l Gold Steering Rod (Better material)IFW150
l Includes one set each of Front Hub Carrier (20 & 22 degree for
users choice.)IFW138/IFW139
l 3 degree Rear Caster Angle Block (Blue)
l Diff: (F/LSD, C&R/Diff.)
l Single Disk Brake for light weight
l New Steering Plate for new Ackerman.
l 4mm Longer Rear Shock (2mm longer case with 2mm longer
shaft)IFW149
Includes IFW147 Upper Holder B & IFW145 Front Shock Stay for new
geometry.

[tjs]

"3 degree Rear Caster Angle Block (Blue)"
3 degree Anti-Squat plate?

"Single Disk Brake for light weight"
I hope one on each side of the diff, or rear/front brake only?

The only problem I had with my K car has been the steering. If they have been able to fix this with new geometry we have a great buggy.

[uDi_MP75]

OldSkoolGT - fair enough. Don't get me wrong, I am no mugen fan - but I have seen MBX-5/Nova combo's popping up in top ten lists like nothing else. That never used to be the case. Mugen is catching up with their 7.5. :rolleyes:

But I also think the buggy world is a little boring, considering mostly every buggy out there is an Inferno MP7.5 with various changes. I think it would rock if Kyosho could to to the world what they did with the 7.5 all over again with something new.

But your right... let em take their time, and maybe it will be better than Mugen's lame effort at a new buggy. Although there are some things I like on the X5 - its no reason to drop the ol 75 just yet.

fearsome - yeah I also noticed the WS7 - and the fact that thats still a K2 in the pic. Didn't say anything because I wasn't in the mood to burst any bubbles. Anyone know anything about the Sirio? I saw the Green-headed Kanai edition, and it didn't look like much. Lame effort I reckon for a team driver edition engine. Tiny head on it too.

Oh well, it must run well.... looks doesn't make performance... Either that or Mr. Sirio is offering Mr. Kanai a large amount of moola. :D

[OldskoolGT]

From what I have seen, the Sirio engines without the AAC sleeves are really powerful engines. In some footage of the Kyosho Masters race in France, Kanai's Sirio powered buggy was clearly faster than anything else on the track. That cooling head on the Kanai Sirio is definintely on the puny side though.


TJS,

What kind of steering problems are you having with your buggy?

[tjs]

OldSkoolGT; I never seem to get the car totally balanced, there is always slight amount of push or oversteer. If the car turns in great it has a tendency to understeer on exit. If I manage to get rid on corner exit udersteer I have to be really carefull when entering a turn (not a very fast way around the track..) I have tried all different caster variations and ackerman settings, even tried to fix it with different anti-squat settings.

Last weekend the buggy handeled like a Minardi, Oversteering in to the corners and major understeer
after apex...yet I finished 7th. in A main.

If the track is small and technical the buggy handles great but fast sweepers are troublesome.

Hyper 7's and Mugen's seem more planted.

Anybody else have any trouble with their knuckle arms breaking all the time? I have gone through 4 set of knuckles and 22deg. caster blocks...these things started breakin when I switched from stock 17deg. c-hubs to 22deg. hubs.

About Sirios; I have never seen one run but what I heard form worlds warm-up was that most team drivers had major trouble with their engines. I heard stories of melted pistons...who knows if these are true. The big problem with Sirio lies in its AAC construction. They tied to manufacture internals so that the sleeve and piston heat expand at same rate (sort of makes sense...)but this seem to be the problem. They just dont run well.

[philadater]

Hey guys the photo is photoshopped, since their is no real Kyosho photo available, something had to be done...

BTW OldskoolGT
all the info found on the Sgrid was taken from Neo-Buggy as well, except no recognition was given as usual...

Anyway we'll see what happens...

[DR.GT]

Sorry to change the subject but........

Is there a standard ball park figure for length, thread # or depth that you set the knurled knob on the servo saver spring on the steering mounting blocks for the proper tension for the front steering for the 7.5. I'm using a hitec 5945.

thanks....:D

[fearsome]

Originally posted by tjs
OldSkoolGT; I never seem to get the car totally balanced, there is always slight amount of push or oversteer. If the car turns in great it has a tendency to understeer on exit. If I manage to get rid on corner exit udersteer I have to be really carefull when entering a turn (not a very fast way around the track..) I have tried all different caster variations and ackerman settings, even tried to fix it with different anti-squat settings.

Last weekend the buggy handeled like a Minardi, Oversteering in to the corners and major understeer
after apex...yet I finished 7th. in A main.

If the track is small and technical the buggy handles great but fast sweepers are troublesome.

Hyper 7's and Mugen's seem more planted.

If you have tried all the variations of caster, ackerman etc etc...
your problem may be in the diffs.

Are you using kanai diffs? or std diff?

I have had similar problems as you so being fast though high speed sweepers is very difficult to keep planted.

I suggest you try a std diff in the centre and LSD in the front start with 7000wt oil in the centre this may cure your problem.

Mugen and hyper 7s usually use std diffs and may possibly be the reason they seem to be planted....

[tjs]

Fearsome; This season I've been using tcd front diff and standard center-rear diffs. Rear diff is allways filled with 1000wt Mugen oil and center with either 5000wt or 7000wt depending on track conditions.

I know that most pros use red tcd fluid and I have been using it too for most part of the season but now that I think back the black one might have been better for my driving style...any thoughts?

[Rog]

Hey guys, some people have been talking about using the Kyosho "cut" black shoes and a 1.0 spring in their clutch for less maintenance compared to aluminum shoes. Can someone tell me how much to cut and from where on the shoe? Thanks

[nitro22]

I just bought a used 7.5 that was just to good a deal to pass up on. I drove it in a heat and it was great. I bought it on the spot. I didn't get to talk to much to the guy I got it from. He just said it was a Kanai all stock but the shock towers.

I need some schooling.
How can you tell the difference between a Kanai 1 and a 2?

What diffs came on the 1 and 2 and how can you tell the difference between the LSD and the standard?

Also what shocks came on the 1 or 2?

Any must knows? upgrades or tips would be great.Thanks for any info.

[OldskoolGT]

The original Kanai has 3 mm shocks and 17 degree hub carriers.

The K2 has 3.5 mm shocks and 22 degree hub carriers. Those are the big differences between the two. I think it also comes with a bigger splash guard for the fuel tank. Both cars came with 2 TCD diffs and 1 regular diff. Go to ebay and you will find lots of pictures of TCD diffs and regular diffs.

[nitro22]

Thanks for your reply.

[munim]

Udi:I see what you're saying about them coming out with new kits all the time but it's not like the parts are incompatible with the K2, if you already have one, then just get the new parts.If you don't have one, then you buy the whole new kit.Also, from what I have seen on the Grid, sometimes racers just buy the new kit and keep the old for spares and back up cars.I used to thing that was stupid but I've seen a heck of a lot of used cars that are usually tweaked in some way or another, so it's good to have a new car in the season and have a backup as well.Anyways, I think Kanai is probably working on a new car, he'd be stupid not to.

Anyways, what I don't get is, why do they really cut that much(little?) weight off?I mean, the chassis is 40 grams lighter but that's probably how much dirt collects on the car during a race(well, it depends on the conditions).Would 40 grams really make such a difference, even to a pro driver?</rant>

In the end, I still think the K buggy is the one to beat.

[tjs]

Rog: Go to http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm Click tips and got to Clutch.

[OldskoolGT]

I think 40 grams is a pretty good amount of weight to drop off one part. Big weight savings results from dropping a little weight from a bunch of parts, there's not any parts that can be significantly lighter. I am guessing the K3 is gonna be about 4 ounces ligher than the K2 from the changes that described. Kyosho is just getting warmed up for the next generation buggy. :)

[NIC]

Hello everyone !

I´m glad to see that Kyosho is making a new Kanai car. However what I would like to see is a Kanai with all drivetrainparts out of titanium. That would really transform the car.
I have competed alot with Kyoshos Infernos from the Turbo Inferno-one to the "new" Kanai 2 and from the moment I switch to the MP 7,5 that is the upgrade I´ve been waiting for the most.

Do you guys know if there is some talk about that maybe not for the Kanai 3 but for the next generation ?

One interesting thing though....

For my Kanai 2 I have change the powerplant a little bit ;). I now drive circles around my former competitors with the help of electric-power :eek: ;). Trust me guys, this thing is WAY more powerful and faster around the track then my MP 7,5 with OS-race prepped engine :).
The motor puts out 1400 Watts, and that with torque from the very bottom end :). It also revs about 48000-50000 rpms at the top so the topspeed is insane.

A small videomix with some testruns made by multiple boat worldchampion Miha:


http://www.******.net/media.php?trick=2&type=Video&limit=10&searchstr=Kanai&time=1065435202&search=search

Thanks !

NIC

[munim]

Umm...Titanium?Why would you want titanium.I don't know why but there is this gross misconception that titanium is the best material for everything, be it gears,brakes(!) etc.Titanium is suited to certain applications, but not all.For the drivetrain, do you mean that the diffs, diff gears,crosspins,drive-cups,driveshafts+uni. joints should be titanium?If so, it would be pretty heavy, and most likely unreliable, as above stated, titanium isn't for everything, and if you had a couple of parts, then others would start breaking.Besides all this, the stock drivetrain is bomb-proof.Have you broken any parts to want titanium?

[munim]

Damn!That buggy is fast.Do you race on a track or anything?Do you find that it is controllable?I was thinking of doing something like that to another buggy but I just didn't want to charge battery packs all the time,hehe.

[NIC]

To mumin:

Hello !

Yes, the car is FAST ! But also the handling is superior to the nitros actually, due to the SUPER LOW CG. It corners like a Ferrari in the infield and then....power, power, power... on the straights.
And it jumps like Mike Powell in the longjump.

The car have been lightned up pretty much since that video. It is now 290-300 grams lighter due to alot of carbonfibre and overall construction improvements so it´s now REALLY fun do drive.
Next summer I´m gonna make the lower chassie out of carbon to. But you have to do a mold for it because of the kick-up in the front, but it´s no big deal.

I was thinking of all the parts that CAN be made of ti. Surely the driveshafts and differential shafts can be made. Maybe even the gears too.
And it would be lighter then stock if it was dimensioned for equall strenght.

Here is a link to some pictures of it :

http://www.coldfusionracing.com/8ths/nic.htm

This is the early contruction pics and the way the car was driven in the video. Notice the very low CG.

Thanks !

NIC

[OldskoolGT]

Very cool buggy NIC!! What kind of run times do you get with it?

[vad]

Nic,
That is one nice design. I went to the coldfusion web site and 1/8 electric would be a nice experiment, and expensive one, but hey probably equal to some of the motors we buy for the buggies.

[NIC]

To OldskoolGT:

I get 9-10 min depending on......well everything, (packs condition, traction, different tracks, overall set-up to put it simple).

To munim:

If you have 4 rounds of packs, in this case 8 packs then, you can drive continiuosly. And since I have alot of packs from my other electric-cars it wasn´t a cost at all.

To vad:

It is NOT expensive at all ! Well it depends if you just have had nitros before, then you must buy charges and alot of things.
But the motor is 180 Euros and the speedcontroll is 350-380 E:s.
But that is only a one time cost cause the esc last forever and the only thing that you can do to the motor is change the front and rear bearing. Otherwise it has a 3 years guarantee.
No more plugs to change, airfilters, clutches, breaks....and you know.... !
Just "plug in and play".

One really good thing about this car is that that it performs EXCACTLY the same each run, doesn´t matter what tempeture it is, or if the motor is abit "warm" ( it doesn´t get hot at all) from the last run. I can also cruise around at 10 % throttle for as long as I want and then just floor it ! NO hesitation at all (offcoarse), it just takes off.

Don´t get me wrong guys I like nitro alot but I don´t have much time anymore for tuning and maintain a nitroengine and the things that comes with it in top condition. And I´m the type of guy who doesn´t run my cars unless I know that every aspect of the car is in absolute top condition.
That is why I went electric. Just the lack of time.
And the speed and performance doesn´t suck either......
This motor CAN not be maintain, it is sealed and you have to send it in for bearing replacement. Then it will last untill next bearing change......

Please do ask anything about the car if you want, I will answer. My early question though was about the titanium parts. Does anyone know anything about them ?

Thanks !

NIC

[Marky]

Hi guys

question for ya all

Does anyone know if Kyosho has changed the design of there ally clutch shoes ??
Got a KII and the kit shoes are a totally different shape to the ones i have just purchased, as you can see in the pic. (left one is the original kit shoe)
It seems as if the groove that the spring sits in is deeper too, as part of the spring pokes out at the end, thus interfearing with the other shoe :confused:
Is it ok to snip a little off the end of the spring ??


Love the leccy K2 BTW :cool:

Marky

[hezageek]

Hi everyone, I'm kind of new to the RC/Nitro scene and it seems the more I talk to people the more confused I get. Does anyone have some good defenitions about the difference between a TCD, LSD, and Standard differentials? I have an Inferno MP7.5 that started out as a Sports and has gone through many changes, including the diffs to the Kanai version. Last night a long time driver at the track I go to said a lot of the team drivers ditch the Kanai diffs and go with the standard ones to get more steering. I have no idea what's the difference? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.:confused:

[vad]

Nic,

The brushless you run is the Hacker B50 11S, how does that compare to the C50 Maxx or the C50 heli motors. I know the shaft sizes are different 3.17mm to 5mm btwn the emaxx and heli motors. What about the number of cells 12, 14, 16. Does that mean the maximum number of cells which can be used or the minimum, or do the numbers mean nothing.

http://www.aircraft-world.com/prod_datasheets/hm-C50.htm

As for controllers is the master competition controller the better speed controller to go with when comparing to the other car speed controllers like the sport?

[OldskoolGT]

hezageek,

Kyosho TCD diffs = Kyosho LSD. Same thing. I always call them TCD because only Kyosho has a "TCD" diff.

As far as steering goes, many people like having one TCD diff with red oil in the front of the car as it offers increased turn in over a regular diff. Using TCD diffs is really a preference type thing depending on the track surface. You can be fast with either type of diff. Greg Degani won the 2002 Worlds with 1 TCD diff in the front of his buggy, while Mark Pavidas uses regular diffs, and Richard Saxton (when he was on Team Kyosho) ran TCDs in the front and rear.

[vad]

Hazageek,
As Oldschool says, many drivers use different setups on the Differentials. I know guys who have tried the TCD in the front, in the center or the rear moving the units front/rear, front/ center, center/rear, It depends on the track you race at

[hezageek]

Thanks everyone. I'm one step closer to understanding this. TCD = LSD, which I kind of thought was the case. The part I still am confused on is what changes are necessary to make one of these a 'standard' diff? I currently have the Kanai setup in the F, C, R w/5000, 7000, 1000 diff oil. Thanks again.

[vad]

Hazageek,
If you are running the 5k, 7, 1k in the diffs then you are running all stock diffs. The Kanai diffs look different from the stock diffs because they the Kanai diffs have 2 or 4 small square blocks which supposrt the gears in the diff, the stock ones are 6 gears, 2 large, 4 small gears.

[neilsam]

I'm also a little confused about the differentials. Vad, just to clarify, having the 4 small square blocks and the red oil makes it a TCD/LSD as opposed to a regular differential?

Hezageek, I am not sure about this but I think the TCD/LSD is a way to provide more power to an ouside gripping wheel when the inside spinning wheel loses traction and just spins freely. As opposed to just putting a thicker silicone diff oil to lock up the diffs, the TCD strikes a balance of kinda locking up the diffs without causing the vehicle to flip over as would be the case if too thick a diff oil is used.


Help me out guys, am i correct. I'm really not sure.

[OldskoolGT]

neilsam,

The 4 pinion gears of a TCD diff are different than the pinion gears of a standard diff. They are made of hardened steel, like the square cages. Basically, all the parts inside the diff case of a TCD diff are different than the standard diff's parts.

TCDs are great IMHO. They allow better turn in because the TCD oil is much thinner than regular silicone oil. And they do indeed have a limited slip action so the traction is better than with standard diffs.

[NIC]

To vad:

Not to go away to much from this threads topic wich is about the K1 and K2 buggy you could say that the C-series are a B-series Hacker with cooling fins and 3,17 mm axle and abit higher rpms.
The rpm limit of the C and B-sereis is 60000 rpms :eek: ;) .
The amount of cells recomended to the varius types of C50:s is just to keep them from reving more then 60000. 3300 X 14 cells is roughly 55000 under light load.
You can use higher rpm if you like (many people have done that with no problem) but it avoids the warranty, and you really don´t need more then 60000 or do you ;) ? For insane speedruns though people have gone up to 85000 :eek: but that is just unessesary, it´s better do stay around 50000 with more torque instead and just gear it harder.

And the Master is better yes. It can handle more amps.

You should really go to the brushless motorforum in the electric-section and ask all your questions there. You will get quick and good answers there.

See you there, you are welcome ;) !

Back to the topic !

Thanks !

NIC

[OldskoolGT]

Marky,

Its ok to trim the clutch springs.

[tittelba]

Hi Nic,
Awesome running brushless buggy. I'm thinking about do the same thing. I'd love to see some more pictures of your set-up and what parts you needed to modify to make this set-up work.

Regards,
Tom

[Marky]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
Marky,

Its ok to trim the clutch springs.

Thanks

Do you know the answer to my other question too ??
Have Kyosho changed the profile shape of their ally shoes ??

I've trimed the springs down and the shoes 'sit' much better than before (tight against the clutch nut)

Marky

[vad]

Tom(tittelba)
I posted something in the Brushless item in the Electric forum. I called a guy in NY Fine Design and got some very good info..... So good that I ordered an BL motor, speedo and motor mount. I just need to order the pinions from WGberg in 24 pitch. I Will start posting in the Brushless item and once everything is finished Ill post one time in the kanai forum.

[vad]

Marky,
Just keep in mind when you alter the clutch shoes or springs you alter the time the clutch engages and disengages....

[LJae]

i need some help.:( i ran my k2 in a 30min main and experience alot of brake fade. i'm currently running the stock brake setup with a airtronic 357 servo on throttle. i've seen alot of people switch to the craddock brake disc but i can't find them in my area. however, i can get the fioroni fiber bake disc. i'm just wondering if the fioroni brakes are the same as the craddock brakes or are the fioroni one a waste of money and i should pursue the craddock disc? thanks

[DR.GT]

LJae:

You must have your brakes set wrong. The stock pads will wear but they also work very well until they are worn out.

Does anyone know the difference in weight of titanium to aluminum. Which is heavier and by how much eg. chassis

thanks...

:)

[vad]

Ljae,
Try Kris Moore from mugen USA, he sells the brakes. You will need to contact him directly, not through work, he is selling the items personally not through Mugen USA.

[LJae]

Originally posted by DR.GT
LJae:

You must have your brakes set wrong. The stock pads will wear but they also work very well until they are worn out.

:)
the track i ran on is kind of tight and traction is low. the brake bias is maybe 5-10%f/90-95%rear and after about 25min into that race, i noticed the reduced braking power. lsd,7,1 is the diff set up could that be the reason why i have to use so much brake for cornering? and do i get in touch with Kris Moore? thanks alot

[jjnasution]

Originally posted by LJae
the track i ran on is kind of tight and traction is low. the brake bias is maybe 5-10%f/90-95%rear and after about 25min into that race, i noticed the reduced braking power. lsd,7,1 is the diff set up could that be the reason why i have to use so much brake for cornering? and do i get in touch with Kris Moore? thanks alot

Is it possible when you refuel, the fuel spilled to the brakes? Causing it to loose grip.

[uDi_MP75]

DR. GT - If I remember correctly, titanium is in fact lighter than aluminium by a small amount, as well as being obviously stronger. Maybe i'm remembering wrong though...

Or maybe it was just that you could have thinner titanium than an aluminium part, while maintaining the same strength. I do know that titanium has a higher strength-to-quantity value than ally though.

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/kyosho/31273.gif
K3 lookie good.

You know how the K2/K3 is decked with thick 7075 parts, nice gear, 3 shoe ally clutch, universals all round, etc... Do you guys think Kyosho will keep these things for the regular release of the next buggy, or will they tone all the way back to 5000 series or whatever like they did with the 7.5? And then build back up again through Kanai editions or whatever...

Im hoping they follow mugens lead and keep the good stuff on the regular.. like the X5 has uni's, graphite, 7075, etc, even though its no RR/XR.

[jetskik2]

where is the best place on the web to order spare parts?

I keep breaking stuff :/ What is the best clutch setup for technical small tracks? Running k2 lsd,7k,1k rb c5, 30%nitro.

i bought a pair of mugen whites and will drill 3mm hole in them and use 1.1 springs.

Also with the optional brake discs that are made out of composites how do u set those up same way as stock but with no rubber pads?

[OldskoolGT]

Tower and Ace are probably your best bet for Kyosho parts.

As far as clutch setups go, I find that it's much easier to use an engine with lots of low end torque and a regular clutch setup (black shoes, 1.0 springs) than mess with the clutch in order to get more low end snap from certain engines. I don't think any clutch setup is going to yield good results with a C5 on a small tight track.


uDi_MP75

I think the "regular" version of the next buggy will come with better stuff on it considering how much competition there is in 1/8 buggies now. The Kanai version will always get all the good stuff though.

[DR.GT]

If any of you out there happen to have a K2 chassis that is easily
weighed could someone please weigh it and post the weight. Either oz. or G is ok. I want to put my 7.5 on a diet over this winter season and I don't know what the weight of a K2 chassis is as I have a custom chassis in my 7.5.

Thanks....

:)

[OldskoolGT]

11.7 oz for a new K2 chassis still in the plastic bag.

[DR.GT]

Thanks....OldskoolGT!

:)

[vad]

If you have a C5 and are looking for Low end pull, try a few thing and you will be surprised.

1. 48t center diff drive.
2. 13T clutch bell
3. Rex 053 1pc pipe, or Ofna also
4. Fioroni 2 shoe slide clutch.


This set up should give you the low you are looking for.

[jetskik2]

thanks vad

i was going to ask u about those sliding clutch shoes and how they worked. I have a rex 086 13t clutch bell, stock k2 center diff gear dont know how many teeth.

i also want to buy 4 of those composite brake shoes just dont know how to install them. no rubber pads i hear just metal to disk but what happens to all the extra space?

[OldskoolGT]

Stock spur gear has 46 teeth.

For the price of a new spur gear and a new pipe, you could buy a brand new OS RG engine from Tower Hobbies.

[jetskik2]

yea i was thinking about running 2 engines anyways os and rb small and big track motors, are the slide clutches worth the 60 bucks?

[tarvymoto]

Anyone know where I can buy K Factory parts online?

[KanaiDude]

I dont know of to many would like to though, at towerhobbies you can at least get a few, the hardened hinge pins with nuts, great hop up, and decent price like 42 at tower or something, they have a few other trinity hop ups for the 7.5. I highly recomend getting those threaded hinge pins though. The last race i was at had a 30 minute main, well 25 minutes into it a front hub e-clip popped off and I couldnt steer because of the pin sliding out and jammming the wheel, It took me like 3 minutes to fix or at least get back on the track, and i finished 4th of 10, 3rd beating me buy just a hair with no break downs, the top 2 were sponsored so i was happy, but it was a cash race, so 3rd took home some loot :( . I had most of these threaded pins installed except for the hub that came lose! ARRRGHGH....

[munim]

On the K-Factory pins, I suggest you only get the outer front lower ones, they are the most important.They cut costs by using the same length pins for some parts making them too short for the upper front arms, it's better to stick with the stock pins, it's not like they break anyways.

[jetskik2]

give us a link to those hinge pins?

just installed a option team turbo sliding clutch with aggresive shoes, its a must fkn have item wow!

also bought the alum fioroni front knuckles and the steering feels alittle tighter.

[jetskik2]

can someone explain to me how they make those gas tank lid pullers?

[munim]

Here's the link for the complete set :Pins (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSB8&P=7)

As for the tank lid pullers:
-Put a ziptie through the hole in the tanklid
-put a piece of fuel tubing over the 'shaft' of the ziptie
-Get a spare servo horn and put it on the shaft as well then secure it using a head from another zip tie.

[jetskik2]

thanks for the link i just bought the set, as far as the tank lid puller goes i still dont get how you make it, what function does the servo horn have and how does that go on?


would like to know if racers edge sells hardware kits for the 7.5 in cluding the washers and spacers.

[munim]

The servo horn makes it easier for you to open the lid during the race.For step by step instructions, go here (http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/svm/rs01/rs01build/rs01step25.html) and scroll to the bottom, there are two steps which show what it looks like

[jetskik2]

very nice thanks i just did that mod today

[jetskik2]

does anyone know how to get more steering out of the k2 car? i purchased some new front knuckles and those seem to help and my steering linkage is in the default spot in the middle of the steering linkage.

[LJae]

when using the thin craddock brakes, do you use single per side or double per side? ( two or four total)?

[KanaiDude]

I was thinking the same thing with the knuckles, do you really get more steering throw from them? does anyone know if the HCR or the racers edge knuckles will produce the same results?

[jetskik2]

running lsd front,7k center,1k rear and my k2 is pushing like a mofo through the corners, any way to fix this?

[wjj]

Does anyone know if the new mugen body will fit a kyosho?

[KanaiDude]

Hey Jetski I would think about swapping the front out with a standard diff running 5k, or try the red diff fluid in your lsd is a little thicker. I never liked the lsd diffs to much but thats just M2Cents!

[jlem1on]

Hi guys
I'm wondering if anybody could tell me where to get the green side guards for a k2?I saw them on a racers kit in amag but have been unsucessful in finding them
Thanks
Jon

[atm92484_3]

Try Ofna ones. I'm pretty sure they make green ones for the 9.5 that will fit. The part number if 40080.

[tarvymoto]

Is there any way to lighten up the K2? how much does chassis weght effect overall weight?

[DR.GT]

tarvymoto:

Try www.rchopups.co.uk!

They have carbon fibre pieces for the K2. The parts look very strong as well. I will be putting my K2 on a diet this winter. The new K chassis is supposed to be 40 grams lighter as well (tower hobbies by Dec. they say) . I think this will be a very interesting upgrade for the K2 with all the parts installed. It would be nice to lose about 4-5 oz. if possible. The car would probably lighter than a MBX5.

With the car being lighter ( unsprung weight) the car should feel a little quicker and more agile all the way around. This should help jumping ability and accelereation as well.



:D

[Motorman007]

Rich and I go back for sometime now. Well I ran the all his stuff on my kit this pass season and everything held up super good. Towers are like 4.5 5 mm. and we even talked about making a carbon chassis for the Kanai kit. To make it even lighter. When I weight at this year roar race I was much lighter than the MBX5. and other buggies there. Almost to light for roar rules.

If you need more info on Rich carbon parts just e-mail. And he is super guy to deal with.

Shipping from the UK is like 4-5 days air and it is like 5 US we don’t pay VAT tax.

dibs

[DR.GT]

Hey Dibs....

Did you ever try the extra weight in the battery box of your truck?

:D

[Motorman007]

no i did not sold it. and got a kyosho truck.

going to see how i like it.

and you how are you man?

[DR.GT]

I'm oldandslow from the Grid. I sent you a em about the weight I used in my xxxnt and figured it might help you with the K truck.

:)

[Motorman007]

OO!!! i have not done that yet. going to run it some more with out it to see if it really needs it.

and again thanx for the tip

dibs:D

[buggymade/man]

is it worth it? i only have 350 max to spend on a engine. please i need some help and feedback on this.

[offroadcrazy01]

Some people say good things about them some people say they are fast but dont last long I have never heard of any body unhappy with the rb's ws7 engine's I have a OS V01 and it's great I hear the new os engine are not as good as lasts years engines my next engine will be a ws72 hope this helps good luck

[atm92484_3]

For you guys running K2s, is it worthwhile to upgrade to 3.5mm shocks all around?

[OldskoolGT]

I guess it depens on how frequently you break shock shafts. In one year of use, I have only bent one 3.5 mm shock shaft, and it was such a small bend, I could not see the bend upon casual inspection. I think that 3.5 mm shafts are so strong, they rarely break, unlike 3mm shafts which will break and take you out of the race.


buggymade/man,

The Kanai Sirio engine isn't out yet in the USA, so you probably won't find much feedback about it.

[KanaiDude]

Hey gang, I run a Novarossi P5 and its insane, got it new off ebay for 250 shipped, one awesome engine, 20+ tanks and still feels tight as new, and its tight baby! I have the sirio off road engine to that I have not fired up yet, I have heard really good things about it, I own 2 sirio.12's in my GT and NTC3 and they are both hardcore reliable performers you cannot go wrong with SIRIO in MHO. I still have the standard shocks on mine, even though I have the 3.5 shocks sitting in an unopened bag, the regular shocks really are fine unless your running in the A-main at a massive race...

[atm92484_3]

I was just wondering since I bent 2 shafts last season. Granted both were from rear-end collisions with a 30 mph difference in speed.....:D I doubt 3.5mm shocks would hold up to even that.

[KanaiDude]

Yikes sounds like you got slammed by someone(s) starring at there car and not the track, yea if you got bad drivers I would throw whatever armour you can on the car! Hey the new r/c action is out with a page review on the new sirio, looks sweet new design on the sleeve, it's connected to the top half of the heat sink, very different and they say it's got unbelievable power, but would else would you expect it's a sirio!

[Hobbytown Racer]

Originally posted by Merkel54
Steve, Are these drivers using torsen centers or another type? Or stock? Right now most of my racing and practice is on a relativly flat hard packed dirt and grass. Any setup suggestions, diff silicone weight and so on. Unfortunatly there is no 1/8 scale track in my area, I have a 12 acre back yard so thats where my track is. There has got to be hundreds of people in my area in the same position, could you or anyone else out there tell me how to go about starting a club or just getting some guys together to help upgrade track and most importantly race with and swap ideas with? I know this kind of a long winded post but I have alot of ?'s. I live 45 miles straight west of Chicago in a town called St. Charles. Most of what I have learned has been from RCCA and this great forum right here, I wish I had discovered it long ago. Keep up the great work. Guy

WOW, you got 12 acres??? I could do alot with that much land!!!! You need to spread the word and try to find others in your area that bash and run for fun. If you get enough, you can start a club and if everything goes well, it should take off. Good luck and have fun. :D

Also, the LSD diff was developed by Kania him self for different track conditions that are not the same as most tracks in the USA. That's why alot of the team drivers have changed back to the stock gear diffs.

[fourboltmain]

I just posted this in the Kanai III forum, because...well I'm an idiot, but anyway.... I have read quite a bit about guys using the conventional diffs, and those that truly appreciate the TCD diffs, so my question is "Which do you use, and why?"

[hyperstang]

Anyone know where I could download the KYOSHO KANAI 2 instruction manual. I just got a Kanai 2 online from ebay and I need an instruction manual??

Thanks

[KanaiDude]

You can buy that online on ebay also, there are a few sellers that have it, if you type in kanai, there should be about 150 results, there will be 1 or 2 sellers currently selling every part from the kanai kit including the instruction manual.

[fourboltmain]

If you have Abobe Acrobat you can download it straight from Kyosho's site for free. You will need to download an auxilliary Japanese character file, though.

[celittca]

Hi guys, I just got myself a K2 kit since I have a brand new team orion wasp .26/ same as a ofna picco .26. I can't really use the engine mount to fit my engine properly. The screw holes aren't matched correctly. It loooks like the backplate of the wasp is blocking the way. What should I do? I don't think I can afforad another engine.:mad: If so which is the best engine for the K2? Best doesn't mean like a total rip off. Please let me know guys.... Thanks!!!!!!!!

[fearsome]

Originally posted by celittca
Hi guys, I just got myself a K2 kit since I have a brand new team orion wasp .26/ same as a ofna picco .26. I can't really use the engine mount to fit my engine properly. The screw holes aren't matched correctly. It loooks like the backplate of the wasp is blocking the way. What should I do? I don't think I can afforad another engine.:mad: If so which is the best engine for the K2? Best doesn't mean like a total rip off. Please let me know guys.... Thanks!!!!!!!!

The K2 engine mounts are not design to work with pullstart engine (mounts are too low so cannot clear the pullstart assembly).
What you can do is get the pullstart engine mounts and everything should fit perfectly....i'm not sure what the part. no. it is but i'm sure someone here does...

Best engine??? depends on track and personal preference!

But for the money the ofna 8 port is very cheap and can hang with some of the "best" engines...

personally I use RB WS7II or NR P5 depending on conditions and how I feel :D

[celittca]

http://members.shaw.ca/nero1943/wasp1.jpg http://members.shaw.ca/nero1943/wasp2.jpg

[celittca]

Hey guys, I just got my K2 with a sirio .27 11 ports. I am thinking what kind of shock oil setup will be good for all around bashing and alittle bit of racing? mostly likely racing for now. What do you guys recommend?
:)

[OldskoolGT]

55 wt. front and 35 wt. oil for the rear shocks should get you in the neighborhoood. That's with the white pistons.

[celittca]

Thanks for the info. I am having problem putting the K2 together. I find out the screw sets are really bad. NO lables and take forever to find the screw that I need. Do you guys think I will be okay running 13th stock clutch bell and the stock K2's spur???

[atm92484_3]

Just hold set screw over the little picture of it on the lefthand side of the page in the manual. Its a 1:1 pic so you just need to find a screw that size.

[KanaiDude]

So what happened to the wasp .26? Holy cow your dumping that sirio .27 11 port mill in to a K2, do you have a local track your planning on racing it at? I would check with the guys there that your mill is legal, as some people might call foul. I would think you could try a 14t bell with that mill, your putting out some serious horses...

[celittca]

nah I don't care about the local track races cuz it rains in Vancouver BC all the time. Yeah the screws are really hard to find or probably I lost them!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad: I guess i can get those screws at any hobby shop.
My wasp has a pullstart so it won't fit in there. Since I bought the K2 so I spend that extra money and put in the sirio!!!!!
:D :D

[jeroen]

Hi guy I'm new at this part of the forum.
I see there are some pro's around here.

I will get my kanai 2 from towerhobbies this week.
I will run this engine: http://www.eck-tec.de/sites/buggy_details.htm

I already have the rcscrewz kit for the car,so maybe its something for you celittca http://www.rcscrewz.com/offroad.htm

I already used 1 set for my madforce,and I like it very much.

Will race it at the local track: http://home.hetnet.nl/~mkpm/mvw/auto.html

Although I'm just a beginner in this buggy stuff.
I have 2 cars from kyosho at the moment,landmax and madforce.

I will make some nice builing pics asp for you guys.

[celittca]

jeroen/ hey there thanks for the screws site, I am thinking to buy it. I assume they come with all the screws that you needed????:D

[celittca]

going crazy with the buggies. Is K3 that much difference from the K2????? and I just ordered the RC SCREWS for my K2.....

[jeroen]

Hi again

Great you ordered it so soon,it includes all you need,but most screwz are different then included with the kanai kit.

They ship very quick! always strange too so so many screwz are needed too built the hole car.

I did not order the kanai3 cause it is not that different,and much cheaper.

[KanaiDude]

I have bought a set of RCScrewz for each of my 3 cars, have been very happy with there company. There is a tremendous amount of discussion on the K2/K3 in the kanai III forum, check it out!

[jeroen]

I got my kanai 2 today :D

I have 1 quick guestion:I did not see any tires in the box,is this normal?

Will post some pics asp

[celittca]

yes it's pretty cheap eh? yeah no tires
man i can't even build it cuz I lost so many screws.....

[Blaster]

Hi guys. I am new on this forum too. Have been running LM2, MF and Superteens.

See some familiar faces here. Cool:D

Jeroen - you might want to order these tires (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM91&P=0) or these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALU5&P=0) . Pro-Line is almost a half of the price of a Kyosho tire set. And as good as the originals. The guys in your track or more experienced folks here might help better than me.:)

Look forward to see some pics of your cars, guys. I will post mine as soon as i get my tires.:mad:

[KanaiDude]

Ahh yes no tires, hence the very large K2/X5 debate over cost and things included in the kits. Blaster's link will get you to some good tires, I typically run crime fighters in important races, I would get some decent bashing tires to, as you do not want to run your good tires on concrete or anything but some qualifiers and mains at a track. I would also check ebay first for tires, I do a search for "1/8 tires" and you will get alot of listings, you will be able to get tires cheaper there if you look around a bit, Prolines are still pricey on ebay but you can save a few bucks, and you can get great bashing tires on there for cheapo. Glad to see some new names, you guys got any questions just give us a hollar...

[jeroen]

Thanks for the quick reply's guys.

I think blaster has shown me some nice tires for the $

I'm finished with the diffs for now:D Will take it slow,so everything is installed as good as I can do it.

[Blaster]

KanaiDude - tks for the e-bay tips. We will certainlly need your help as new buggy drivers...:D

Jeroen - wanna see the pics and vids. You are good on it!:p

As for the price and brands issue, I saw lots of that on K3 forum. Well I guess it will always be a discussion about Kyosho, Muggen and the others. Convince the folks in a forum of a specific brand that other car is the best is waste of time. I bought my K2 because I already own Kyosho cars and they seem to me to worth the price. Also considered forum opinions and availability of spare/hop ups.
Price is a concern, and can decide a purchase. But if you have money for an Enzo you will never try to get a Skoda... So, buy what you want. And enjoy it. Drive it the best you can. That's what matters, in my opinion.:D

[majorjake]

My first time posting, wanted to get everyone's opinion on what are the best upgrades for the Kanai II? I have a rtr sport and have recently purchased a Kanai II with an OS RZ. I want to upgrade the Kanai with Fioroni (aluminum) and or Hardcore Racing (titanium & aluminum) parts. The parts I remove from the Kanai I will add to the sport for added durability.

I want to add the 6mm front and rear fioroni shock towers (I think the kanai comes with 3mm and the sport 2mm?). Front and rear Hardcore chasis braces, and steering knuckles. What else do you suggest to make the Kanai II even more bullet proof? Also, do you prefer Fioroni or Hardcore?

Thanks in advance!

[OldskoolGT]

Unlike a lot of buggies, the K2 doens't require many aftermarket parts to make it bulletproof. IMHO, all it needs is CNC chassis braces and CNC steering knuckles. There are other companies besides Fioroni and Hardcore. Ratzas and Racer's Egdge also make some nice CNC parts for the 7.5.

[Blaster]

Majorjake - I don't saw people here running Fioroni or Racing Hardcore so what I will tell you is my personal opinion. Every hop up I plan I consider two thinks: weight reduction and budget. I don't know if Fioroni 6mm parts save weight. And as OldskoolGT said, the standard K2 doesn't need much hop ups. But the car definitelly will become an eye catching with those parts...
:D

[KanaiDude]

Hey gang, the K2 doesn't need much to make it really perform, the chassis braces and knuckles are about it like others have been saying. Once again here with ebay, you can get the chassis braces on ebay for 18 dollars, and they are just as good as any others. I have hardcore knuckles, they are just like fioroni, both are pricey, you can also get some cnc ones from a company called jet on ebay for like 30 bucks, otherwise expect to pay near 60 for nice knuckles. I have carbon fiber parts on my K2 now - check the K3 forum for a pic. Any upgrades to the towers and such is purely for looks to start, they do add durability, but I haven't seen 1 broken stock kanai tower, others may tell you different, just M2Cents. If you stay with the stock stuff, just don't use to many cleaners on it, or you will tarnish the blue finish quickly. Hey guys, use locktight when building your kits, the blue kind, especially on the chassis braces, steering knuckles, rack, etc... They will come unscrewed if you don't, and you will have to replace alot of screws. One other nice hop up is the K-factory hardened pins with nuts, these are great, as if you lose a c-clip on a hub, and the pin starts to come out, you will lose all steering, I had this happen 25 minutes into a 30 minute main, what a bummer... HAVE FUN :D :D :D

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by majorjake
Also, do you prefer Fioroni or Hardcore?


Fioroni hands down. Aside from the Hardcore stuff being costly for the quality of machine work you get on the part, their chassis braces need to be hacked up to fit on an Inferno with 4 brakes. The Fioroni stuff on the other hand does not have this problem and IMO the quality of the parts is better. Another company that makes good 7.5 stuff is Racer's Edge. Their parts aren't as pretty as Fioroni's blue with natural in the machined areas, but they still have nice sturdy stuff.

[uDi_MP75]

Quick Q

Has anyone bent K2 towers? do they bend easy?
they can't be that strong can they, they're 7075 but only 3mm...

jeroen - keep us updated on how the EVO3 goes, back when I was deep into this stuff, the old CMB's used to have quite a name for themselves, and seemed well loved by those who ran them. Curious if they still stack up, haven't heard of them much lately.

I'm on the virge of getting a nice second hand K2, if the guy hasn't sold it yet. He had an onroad C5 with it, but I dont have the money to buy that too :( so i'll just grab the car, 063 one piece, and a set of new crimefighters that he's got with it.

tell me what you think.
http://home.pacific.net.au/~asiung/sale3.jpg
http://home.pacific.net.au/~asiung/sale4.jpg
http://home.pacific.net.au/~asiung/sale5.jpg

ill get a price for just the car soon, gonna ring him (hope he still has it) it wont be awful cheap, but much cheaper than buying one new here, something between $800-900us!!

[OldskoolGT]

uDi,

Those skinny towers are surprisingly strong! I said to myself that I would get some nice CNC shock towers after I bend the stock ones, but I haven't bent a shock tower yet (buggy is 1 year old, raced 2 times per month).

That buggy looks like its in good shape.