Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai I/II Forum [Archive] - Page 4

uDi_MP75

12-27-2003, 07:03 AM

just saw the pics of ur K2 jeroen, lookin sweet. Really interested in hearing how this evo3 goes... for my next engine i'm thinking either a C5 onroad with a new head, or the evo3 RG. But i'm not sure if the rallygame can match + beat the old C5....
i just think it'd be fun to brag about something a little different, instead of the old nova/os/rb!

anyways heres an old pic of my bug. done with tamiya spraycans :)

http://server5.uploadit.org/files2/271203-IMGA0960.JPG

blaster - lookin forward to seeing pics of yours too once its done :)

majorjake

12-27-2003, 07:32 PM

I just purchased front and rear fioroni shock towers for my Kanai 2 and the holes are a bit different on these than the Kanai 2 towers. What is the best placement for the shocks on the front and rear for a medium sized track? I'm looking for the best placement for soaking up those long and high jumps.

Blaster

12-28-2003, 06:37 AM

uDi and Jeroen - my pics of all cars, including the buggy, are here:
http://www.******.net/member/Blaster . Please change the 6 stars (*) to the word: r c p i c s . No blank between the letters.:D

jeroen

12-28-2003, 11:44 AM

You so funny blaster.

Damn those are a bunch of very nice cars,I like those supertens and wide tires :D
Great work man.

I painted my body today,still need an orange wing and rims.

http://members.lycos.nl/kyoshorccars/kanaibody.html

NoleC5

12-28-2003, 12:19 PM

Okay, well, not sure if any of you will remember me or not, but about 6 months ago I started this hobby with an Inferno Sport Kyosho. Got pretty involved with it and upgraded a lot of the parts to Kanai level. Got a little frustrated with the parts that were breaking and jumped ship and got a MBX5.

For the most part, I've been very happy with the MBX5 and have won an okay amount of races considering the amount of time I've been doing this. But I've growing very tired of the quality of this car. I just don't feel it is up to the standards of a kanai. From the leaky diffs, broken shock shafts and breaking plastic pieces, I'm seriously considering going back to Kyosho.

Here is what I'm considering: If I'm going to go back to kyosho, do I a) get a kanai II or b) get an kanai III? I haven't read enough about the KIII to know if it is worth it or not. But I think I can get one from overseas fairly quickly.

I know there will be some biased opinions here which is fine as I would like to hear some of your comparisons with the KII/III to the MBX5.

Thanks in advance!

uDi_MP75

12-28-2003, 11:59 PM

okay now seriously...

If the price is similar on both kits wherever you are buying or ordering from, the K3 is the way to go. The differences between the kits however are fairly minimal - you could go for the K2 and not have much trouble upgrading. No sane person would NEED to upgrade anything on the K2 to K3 spec anyway to be honest, it's a very different case to the 7.5 sports you had.

The K3 has over the K2 - the major differences:

2 discs instead of 4
lightened chassis
new design a-arms (slightly longer methinks)
new hingepin plates (braces, whatever u call em)
50% of screws are now Ti (for lighter weight)
slightly longer rear shockshafts (wow big deal)

Thats the main stuff. Most of it is for weight reduction - and the difference isn't huge in my book. It's your call on which to get - the K3 is basically Kyosho's answer to the X5 *stiffles laugh* and all it is for the most part is the K2 on a slight diet.

In japan I believe the K3 retails for cheaper than the K2 - so if your buying a K3 make sure your getting it for the best K2 prices. I think the last place online I saw the K3, it was us$599.

good luck either way, and either way I doubt you'll need it ;)
glad to see ya back :)
-uDi

uDi_MP75

12-29-2003, 12:07 AM

Blaster - your garage looks sweet.

All those gold bits on the K2 are proper K2 bits right, not crappy regular gold stuff..... how'dya score that? I remember the K1's first came out in gold for a really little while... don't remember it happening with the K2's tho.

anyways all your stuff looks sweet, like the super10 with the vzb in it.

Jeroen - new body looks neat :) - just one question tho... im confused. Why orange if your not running an RB? :D

jeroen

12-29-2003, 07:56 AM

Hi there

uDi_MP75 I thinked about that myself,but I will run the RB airfilter :D

And I've found myself a nice used OS RZ-v99b.(will run a whille before buying the CMB buggy)I'm out of $ for the moment,and I always wanted too run a OS.

But will it fit with the parts delivered in my kanai2 kit?
I know I needed a thicker flywheel when I had too fit a OS in my kyosho landmax/mp5

Blaster

12-29-2003, 01:51 PM

uDi_MP75 - thanks man! Friends are always welcome.:D And the mini bar always have iced beer:p

I bought these golden parts with this Kyosho distributor (http://www.hobby1.com.br/s_prin.asp) . Besides it is written in Portuguese you can see the parts . here. (http://www.hobby1.com.br/resultado_produtos_faixa.asp) Just add the words KYO before each kyosho part #. Like KYOIFW110 até KYOIFW130.

Jeroen - you buggy is very cool man! The OS engine will use the engine mount that comes along your car. Fits great!:D And the alu clutch plus the flywheel also!

uDi_MP75

01-04-2004, 05:36 AM

guys, URGENT question

i'm plannin on getting that K2, pics shown on page 30.

I'm paying us $415 posted to my door. The deal has swayed a bit, he says I only would get anything but the kit if I bought the engine too. So all I get is the roller.

It's got a nice set of pretty countersunk washers/allenheads, k-factory F/R torquerods, a full set of rubber sealed bearings including in bellcranks, and the rest of the kit is stock. There are some new parts also - new chassis purchased not long ago, i think a few new arms, front hubs, etc.

Diff setup is LSD/STD/STD - and thats all I get.

I told him I wanted an 063 one piece, and maybe some used tyres for that price - he said he'd ring me back tommorow.

Two questions - what do you think...
and what should I be worried about? from what i'm seeing in the pics, the only thing I can imagine needing replacing is maybe shock seals (i see new springs, and those bodies and shafts should last forever) and diff gears?

Main concern is the LSD gears. Can anyone tell me how well they hold up, has anyone noticed the tiniest bit of wear on their gears? or are they tough-as-nails like the main hardened diff gears?

I've got 3 std diffs in my inferno now that I can switch in if the K2 ones are a little done - but - lsd gears, i have none, and i know they cost a bitch over there, over here they will cost a night with a quality ****.

Please help me out on what I should be worried about - i'm concerned because the guy has got a good percentage of new parts on his car, and what hasn't been replaced might be worn. But my experience so far has been that nothing much except arms/hubs wear or play out in a hurry.

This is my first second hand rc buy, and im worried - tell me if the price is alright too, if i get the 063 o-p with the kit.

The cheapest i can get a k2 here (or shipped here) is about 680-690us, so 415 is pretty cheap for me for something that looks to be in good nick and has a few hopups.

Any advice gladly accepted.
cheers
-uDi

OldskoolGT

01-04-2004, 10:45 PM

Hey uDi,

In my experience, the LSD gears last a long time. My K2 has around 10 gallons on it and the gears are still holding up fine. I change the TCD oil every 5 gallons and the gears looked good last time I checked them. I figure if cast aluminum gears can last 10 gallons, hardened steel gears should last a lot longer.

Blaster

01-05-2004, 04:58 AM

Hey uDi - I am new on this buggy stuff so I couldn't give you a good advice in this area. However I have other cars and, based on that, I would consider:
a) As the guy will sell the car with an engine (and pipe?), what is its condition? Any pics?
b) Pics of the tyres/wheels?
c) Chassis looks new.
d) Any spare come along the car? Screws, bearings, tyres...
e) What servos are included?
Seems to me a good deal for the price, if you consider the cost of a brand new K2. Good luck mate!:D

KanaiDude

01-05-2004, 08:11 AM

Hey uDi- That looks to be a pretty good deal for the price, those don't look like K-factory torque rods, but ebay knock offs that should be just fine, I didn't think k-factory made them in silver, maybe they are HCR, but I have a set from ebay that looks identical. The car does have k-factory hindge pins which is a 40 dollar hop-up. It also look like 22 degree hubs, which require different top arms, and universals, so this is good that it has all this, the parts on the car look pretty new to me, the arms and such, could be just cleaned, but none the less not all that much run time. I think this is a decent deal, you couuld probably find something comparable off ebay for the price, but I wouldn't wait to long, with the new season comming up, ebay prices will go up. As far as the diff gears go, i doubt there is much wear, Diffs can always use a rebuild, so count on getting some expensive lsd diff oil (10 bucks, i hear people preffer red which is thicker) and rebuilding them at some point just to see how they are doing. I run all stock diffs, from what I hear most everyone else does to, with the exception of people running the lsd up front for a little bit more steering... GOOD LUCK... HAVE FUN......

uDi_MP75

01-06-2004, 08:29 AM

thanks guys.

oldskool - sounds good, k2 owner friend on msn said the same thing pretty much.

blaster - no engine. pipe he said is awful dirty, and has a few small dents but nothing big, i'll leave that as hit and miss - hopefully it'll be ok. it's an 063 one piece.

tyres, gettin some used knuckles with it. I'm a basher so anything is fine. Chassis is brand new from a month ago or so, so that is cool - and a few other new parts too, i believe front upper arms, hubs. maybe upper turnbuckles etc. Not much spares, a spare pair of blue alloy wing mount posts, i can chuck em on my regular kit :) thats kit. Bearings - full set of sealed ones including bellcranks, so spares shouldnt be needed.
no servos, no engine, no radio gear.

ill put a list up tommorow i am about to fall asleep.

uDi_MP75

01-06-2004, 07:31 PM

KanaiDude - thanks, but i'm quite sure they are K-factory rods. After a quick search, I found these for the hyper7..
http://www.micro-racing.se/images/k8019forstst).jpg
http://www.micro-racing.se/images/k8020(forststag).jpg

those are K-factory ones, and the ones on this K2 look the same. BTW, like I said, it's a K2 - so the front 22 hubs, upper arms, turnbuckles, longer uni's, 3.5 shocks and all that other crap - thats just stock stuff. K2 here, not K1 dude.

LSD oil is something i know i'll have to get, im worried about how much it'll cost if its expensive there even. Kanai's let alone K2's aren't too popular locally here thanks to pricing (haven't seen them in a single shop..) - so getting red oil might be hard without paying postage from somewhere else in the country :( gay.

depositing his cash today, so I should have the car in a week or less hopefully. Hope he gave his account details right...:eek:

this is the last list I got from the guy..., I did end up getting pretty much everything on the list he said id get if i DID buy the engine also - except now its used knuckles instead of nib crimefighters. And that dont bother me.

- K2 rolling chassis
- front and rear torque rod
- rear K-factory toe-in bracket
- front LSD
- std diff centre
- std diff rear
- used wing
- 1 set of used knucle tire
- clutch bell
- engine mount
- flywheel and the nut
- brand new package of the clutch spring 1.0
- RB inline 63 pipe with manifold
- wheel spanner
- manual book
- front and rear blue spring
- extra support for the wing

for 415us, if that pipe is in decent nick, not too many dents, i'll be very happy. Buying some of that stuff new here, would easily double the price im paying, the kit alone, to buy it in this country costs more than twice as much as im paying for all that stuff.

1,400.00 AUD = 1,076.16 USD

Thats how much a nib K2 kit costs here in australia. $1000us.

If I order from Hong Kong and pay freight and taxes, it'd be $690-700 USD. Still a lot.

anyways, boring post over. I'll toss up some pics of the new kit after i've got it, and spent a few days totally going over it first.

new track popping up locally, so i might finally be able to race. god its slow though, waiting for council approval and all. can't wait, really hope it turns out into something good!

Raydee

01-06-2004, 09:08 PM

Anybody have any good info on the new Kanai 3?
By the way, i run a Regular 7.5 right now with tons of K1 upgrades and it does good enough for me. I am in the process of buying a used K2 off a buddy that comes with a lot of upgrades like a fioroni chassis and braces, as well as a torsen diff in the center, green seal bearings, racers edge shock towers and radio tray. It was only raced one season so I offered him $400 for it. I think it is a OK deal but it is from a buddy so I know where it's been!

atm92484_3

01-06-2004, 11:27 PM

That sounds like a pretty good deal. So far the only thing I've seen or heard is from Great Planes and they're still saying later this month on the car.

KanaiDude

01-07-2004, 10:23 AM

Umm Sorry uDi with all your posts I thought you were just looking for general input I will refrain in the future from commenting on your posts. I am not quite sure what you are looking for here, you keep posting but don't seem to be asking any real questions, whatever have fun with your buggy...

Raydee- you may want to try the K3 forum, there is plenty of discussion about the new buggy...

msuh24

01-07-2004, 11:54 PM

hi guys. i just paid $550 for barely used k2 with a os vzb. the engine is not finished breaking in. it needs to be leaned out. it comes with a dynamite chrome pipe, and ko propo pds 2344fet steering, and jr ds 8417 for the throttle. also, new crimefighters on white dish wheels. no body though. was this a pretty good deal? how much do you think it is really worth. the bottom of the chassiss has one small scratch. thanks.

Blaster

01-08-2004, 04:55 AM

Folks, need some advice here. I almost finished to carefully assembly my K2, just need to paint the body. I followed the car's instruction's manual on everything, as I never assembled a buggy before. However I am not confortable with the camber on front wheels as per K2 manual. I think it should be negative. Following the instructions they are neutral. You guys, with more experience on this car, what you suggest for a begginer as a start?:confused:

colinradford

01-08-2004, 05:21 AM

I generally run 0 to -1 degrees camber at the front -2 to -3 at the back

KanaiDude

01-08-2004, 07:55 AM

Mshuh24- sounds like a great deal to me, you probably would have paid 650 on ebay for that, trust me I know ebay, if its in as good condition as you said, you got a steal really, good job! carefull with that vzb engine though don't lean it out to much, ive heard not the greatest things about there new engine most people are sticking to the older v01B instead, so be carefull, I find if run slightly rich and peg the throttle alot, you can get just as much or more snap from your engine, just dont lean it to much!! Have fun!!

NoleC5

01-08-2004, 09:21 AM

Well, I made the decision to give it a shot and I too am working on a build of a brand new K2, think I got a pretty good deal ($570)? Going to put the MBX5 on the shelf for a little while and try to decide which buggie I want to run this coming season.

I would say Im' about 3/4 of the way through the build at this point. Are there any common mistakes or general good tips that anyone could provide?

On the suggestion of a friend, I am building it with the 20 degree hubs and shorter upper A-arms. I also installed the "red" block on the rear of the front diff case.

Thanks in advance!

KanaiDude

01-08-2004, 01:02 PM

NoleC5 - I'm not sure why your friend would tell you not to use the 22 degree hubs, they give you more steering, and as far as i know there are not any drawbacks to using them. I use the upper and lower red block up front , and racers edge blocks in the back, those are pretty important, as the hindge pins take a beating, I also recomend the K-factory hindge pins with nuts on the end, and 570 is a decent deal, WOOT!

NoleC5

01-08-2004, 03:30 PM

Originally posted by KanaiDude
NoleC5 - I'm not sure why your friend would tell you not to use the 22 degree hubs, they give you more steering, and as far as i know there are not any drawbacks to using them. I use the upper and lower red block up front , and racers edge blocks in the back, those are pretty important, as the hindge pins take a beating, I also recomend the K-factory hindge pins with nuts on the end, and 570 is a decent deal, WOOT!

Thanks KanaiDude!! Do you know a good place for me to order the K-factory hinge pins?? Interesting about both upper and lower blocks up front being red?? I think I only got one red block with the kit, does that sound right? Maybe you have to buy extra ones.

uDi_MP75

01-08-2004, 08:17 PM

Sorry K-dude, didn't mean it to come out like that. was just saying i *think* those are proper k-factory torquerods. If they are some cheap ebay rip i dont mind :) but i think they are the originals.

one q - are the k-factory hingepins stronger or weaker than the kyosho pins when it comes to bending? i havent bent any of the main kyosho hingepins, but the smaller ones on the outside end of the a-arms, i've put slight bends in one or two. Would the kfac ones be tougher?

Nole - I think you only do get the lower red block with the kit, not the upper one. I think the upper is an option part.

KanaiDude

01-09-2004, 11:26 AM

uDi- no problem man, sorry i think i was having a bad day to... I think the k-factory pins are probablly a little bit stronger but not much, the great thing is, no more c-clips to be lost at the 20 min mark, you lose a c-clip and the pin slides out and you lose all steering, it cost me 3rd in a cash race last season. Another good hop-up guys are CNC knuckles, they will give you slightly more stearing throw, i have HCR ones on mine, but most people prefer fioroni ones. The upper red block is an option, I get most of my stuff from towerhobbies.com they are pretty great company, i join the supersaver club, and when you spend 150 bucks you usually get 10-20 dollars off plus free shipping, so the bill is like 140, they have k-factory pins, upper block, hcr stuff etc etc. I gotta go get my house work done so my wife let me go racing at 4am in the snow...:D

NoleC5

01-10-2004, 02:41 PM

When you say "K Factory" pins, do you mean the ones that Trinity makes? Those are the only ones I've been able to find that have nuts as opposed to the e clips.

uDi_MP75

01-11-2004, 08:11 AM

You've found the right ones.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSB8&P=0
And I quote...
"This is the Optional Hinge Pin Set for the Inferno MP-7.5 1/8 scale buggy, from K Factory Racing."
That's them. ;)

K-dude - i'd like cnc knucks, but too poor right now - so far the cast ones been good to me provided I tighten down and loctite the screws properly.

Blaster

01-12-2004, 05:32 AM

colinradford - thanks for your tip. I changed my setup and the buggy handles better now...

Folks - dunno if you all know these sites. Never bought from them but they seems to have good prices for either replacement and hop up parts.

http://www.hobbynet-jp.com/english/hobbynet.html (Check out the KYOSHO parts section)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=420_426_355 (this section has parts for MP 7.5 and Landmax)

majorjake

01-12-2004, 07:42 AM

Has anyone had any experience with these engines? Please let me know what engine is the better low, mid, and top end. What durability and tuning.

jeroen

01-12-2004, 11:28 AM

In a few weeks I can tell you how both engine are.

Although I will run a OS RZv99b and my friend a RB WS2

NoleC5

01-12-2004, 01:22 PM

Originally posted by uDi_MP75
You've found the right ones.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSB8&P=0
And I quote...
"This is the Optional Hinge Pin Set for the Inferno MP-7.5 1/8 scale buggy, from K Factory Racing."
That's them. ;)

K-dude - i'd like cnc knucks, but too poor right now - so far the cast ones been good to me provided I tighten down and loctite the screws properly.

Thanks Udi, didn't notice the description, just the "Trinity" in the name.

atm92484_3

01-12-2004, 04:11 PM

Jake, I ran against a Kanai II with a WS7 last summer. On the low-end, I would say the engines were pretty close (the WS7 may have had a slight edge) but once the WS7 hit its powerband, it just blew the V01b away on the top-end.

Does anyone know any other lines of buggies that have diffs compatible with those in the 7.5? The main reason I am asking is I have a ton of parts (almost enough to build another 7.5...yes it would have been easier and cheaper to just buy a Kanai from the get-go) and the last major part I need are diffs. It would be really nice to get less expensive ones like the 9.5 diffs since it would only be a back up car.

KanaiDude

01-12-2004, 04:28 PM

atm- I haven't heard of any other diffs that fit, I have replaced my diffs (parts) and find towerhobbies has good prices, I think you can get 1 setup for 20-30 dollars, for the case, gears and outdrives. Still a little high, the outdrives seem to be what costs money, good luck, I should do the same!!

OldskoolGT

01-12-2004, 04:58 PM

The Hyper 7 diffs are interchangable with the 7.5. You should also use the Hyper 7 pinion gear too if you use the H7 diff as the ring gears are cut slightly different on the H7.

atm92484_3

01-12-2004, 10:59 PM

Thanks guys. I just got a pair of H7 front/rear diffs for $18.50 per diff. Its either back up buggy or truggy time. :)

uDi_MP75

01-13-2004, 12:33 AM

Blaster - guys here are using rcmart to great success - I know I would reccomend the place, from what I hear, good service and great prices. At least for people here, because RC gear costs so much.

Blaster

01-13-2004, 04:23 AM

uDi - thanks for replying! I also got a positive feedbak from them from a great friend in Holland.

KanaiDude

01-13-2004, 08:16 AM

Hey Gang, anyone seen or know someone thats run the super expensive fioroni diffs? I can get a reasonable deal on them around 150 a piece and was pretty curious what people thought, I am thinking the front is probably the only one that would do a whole lot of good, just curious, they sure are cool lookin!!

KanaiDude

01-15-2004, 12:06 PM

I take it no one has tried the fioroni diffs then???

OldskoolGT

01-15-2004, 12:22 PM

I don't even know of anyone who has heard of anyone trying them. :)

Blaster

01-16-2004, 06:16 AM

KanaiDude - sorry but I also never heard of anybody using them nor never used it myself.

uDi_MP75

01-16-2004, 07:06 AM

Got my used K2. Used is used, pulling it apart and checking - but most of the original parts have been replaced with new, so its not too bad. Will have it all back together in a few more days hopefully then i can try it out :)

Just a question - what bearings are everyone using? I know atm has a nice set of boca's :p but anyone else?

i've found two different varietys of sealed bb's in this K2, and one sucks while the other sucks harder. One design is like the shields, you go to wipe off the dust and you get it inside, and the other looks well sealed, but all four of the ones I found were packed with dirt and pretty much shot. :rolleyes:

I'd pretty much say I prefer the plain Kyosho shields, at least over these cheap sealed jobs. Has anyone found a set of cheap seals that actually keeps the dirt out?

jeroen

01-16-2004, 02:44 PM

Hi guys

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3169523642&category=34063

These are some nice bearings,I will replace my stock once with these if needed.

My car is ready for the road,only need my steering servo.

http://members.lycos.nl/kyoshorccars/kanai.html

http://www.rc-racingcars.com/diversen/gallery/album04(for my best rc pal in Brazil)

Got the OS RZv99b second hand at ebay,and it went too: osrocket the guy over there did a sleeve/piston resize on it and checked if it was still any good,highly recomment person too deal with. (thanks for the tip Mr Boocake)

Will start it tomorow :D

uDi_MP75

01-17-2004, 06:36 AM

Buggy looks sweet man. Fuel tube layout is kinda like mine :p
I want to get another kyosho filter for my kanai as well too, but they cost a bit.

Just one question... how come your 3PK screen is green backlit, the others i've seen so far have been blue... are there two different models?

:confused:

-edit-
i just saw http://members.lycos.nl/kyoshorccars/d26.html
so you can change the backlight colour?!?! that is so sweet.

Blaster

01-17-2004, 07:15 AM

Jeroen - great pictures. Your car looks very cool, mate! I liked the color scheme!! Wanna paint mine?

You'll like the OS after you make it start (lol). The polished arms conecting the front and rear suspension to the chassis looks great. You have a great radio also!:D Hope to see some vids soon!

majorjake

01-19-2004, 09:46 AM

I have a Kanai 2 with an OS rzvo1b. I currently have the jr2721 servo for the steering (high torque) and the Futaba s3010 for the throttle.

I will soon be building another kanai and wanted to put the best servos in, what do you recommend? Also, I currently run the airtronics 9286 receiver. Let me know what the best electronics are to put in my kanai. Thanks in advance!

jeroen

01-19-2004, 11:12 AM

I use hitec 645 for gas/braking(kinda cheap,but high torque)
And ko propo digital 2344 FET for steering.

The hitec 5945/5925 are very nice aswell.

And I heard good things about the airtronics 94358Z/94357Z

Do you like the OS rzvo1b ?
Maybe I want 1 aswell.

uDi_MP75

01-19-2004, 09:49 PM

Jeroen - how do you like the 2344? I'm debating on either a 2344 or Futaba 9351 for steering. Not sure which to go for, I've heard good things about KO, and I know I can trust the Fut.

The V01B is nice, but if your on a 99 now, you will see next to no difference between the two engines - it's pretty pointless upgrading.

majorjake

01-19-2004, 10:17 PM

I love the RZ, however for my next Kanai, I'm thinking of going with the WS7II. Still undecided on which one to go with!

jeroen

01-20-2004, 02:50 PM

I will get my 2344 this week,so I can let you know how it works,within 1 month.

Although my LHS guy only likes 1 brand digital servo's Ko Propo that is :D as he drives 1/10 electric onroad races in europe.

I have a second hand v99 now,I will see if it will do.
I'm still indoubt which next new engine I will buy CMB evo 3 buggy or RB WSII / OS VZ-B / Sirio Kanai.

Blaster

01-20-2004, 03:52 PM

I am driving a VZ-B and no complains so far after almost 1 galon on it. I heard bad things about this engine but I guess people that made such comments - there's no evidence so far - were running it to lean. My 2cents:rolleyes:

As for servos I am using Futaba S9402 for steering and S9202 for throtle/braking. No complains so far, even after some driving in wet...:p

jeroen

01-25-2004, 02:53 PM

First bashing with this car.

http://www.******.net/member/jervm

uDi_MP75 the Ko Propo 2344 FET is working great for me right now.
Also the OS RZv99b I like,the sound of it is very nice.

theShark

01-28-2004, 11:19 AM

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
The Hyper 7 diffs are interchangable with the 7.5. You should also use the Hyper 7 pinion gear too if you use the H7 diff as the ring gears are cut slightly different on the H7.

sweet...does the center diff work too?

RCisLife

01-28-2004, 05:13 PM

The hitec 5925's are sweet. I have one for steering and have absolutely no complaints.

Blaster

01-30-2004, 04:25 PM

Only need painting....

Blaster

01-30-2004, 04:31 PM

Another angle...

majorjake

01-30-2004, 09:56 PM

What diff oil do you recommend for a medium sized track fairly technical with a lot of turns and jumps? I was thinking 7000 for front, 5000 for center and 3000 for rear?

Any other suggestions?

Also, how often do you or should you change the diff oil? I heard every 12 -15 tanks of hard running?

Thanks!

atm92484_3

01-30-2004, 10:08 PM

Blaster, is the gold stock on that Kanai 2 (3?)?

Jake, I'm running on a track similar to that (150' or so straight and a bunch of turns that wind in and out of the infield with banked turns going into and coming out of the straight). I'm using 3000 in the front, 5000 in the center, and 1000 in the rear. I was using 5000 in the front and 7000 in the center but the car seemed like it had a little too much push. Starting with 5/7/3 would be fine then testing and tuning but I think you're going to find that the car is going to push.

Blaster

01-31-2004, 05:49 AM

Majorjake - nice to see you in this thread!

atm92484_3 - Thanks for the diff oil tip. My first buggy and this info is very helpfull. As for the golden parts, I bought them from a Kyosho distributor. Guess they were comon on firts Kanais, not sure. All I know is that they have same thickness than the K2 blue parts and are made of Alu 7075S. And I prefer this look - everybody has the blue.:D

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWA50&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALW5&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALX0&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD31&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVC90&P=Z

And wanna buy those...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD13&P=Z
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD15&P=Z

KanaiDude

01-31-2004, 09:05 AM

Nice gold parts Blaster... As for the diff oil I run 5-7-1 and seem to have fair luck with this. I wouldn't mind trying the 3-5-1 setup like atm as you probably get much less pushing then I do, the 5-7-1 is for more power but more push also. Maybe i'll try 5-5-1 or 3-7-1 next as that will be slightly less push but not to drastic for me. So Blaster did you buy all those parts right from Tower? your credit card bill must look as bad as mine! :D That stupid super saver club - order 150 dollars and get 15 dollars off and free shipping gets me every time!

Blaster

01-31-2004, 04:29 PM

KDude - Thanks for your comments and your inputs. I just finished to paint my K2 body (first time painting with 2 colors) and reassembly the diffs with 3-5-1. I'll try this atm sugestion. Latter I'll try yours and try to come up with something. And yeah, this Super Saver Club makes us buy lots of stuff just using as a escuse that small discount. lol :D

Here are some pics of the buggy painted.

Jeroen - Thanks for your comments about the colors of the body. I'll try it next time...:p

Blaster

01-31-2004, 04:33 PM

Another one..

Blaster

01-31-2004, 04:40 PM

Last one guys...

atm92484_3

01-31-2004, 04:56 PM

Looks good blaster. I like how the paintjob matches the wheels.

KanaiDude

01-31-2004, 05:06 PM

Great Job Blaster, that is sure to turn some heads when you drop it on the track!

Blaster

01-31-2004, 05:11 PM

Thanks guys. But I guess I will turn more heads when starts to hit some cars or make mistakes on my first race....:p :D

theShark

02-01-2004, 06:50 PM

Originally posted by atm92484_3
Thanks guys. I just got a pair of H7 front/rear diffs for $18.50 per diff. Its either back up buggy or truggy time. :)

atm92484_3, did you fit the hyper 7 diffs as yet? I got a set off ebay for $20 a pair coming for a rtr sport rolling chassis I have...hope they fit.

offroadcrazy01

02-01-2004, 08:04 PM

Does any run a sirio engine if so how long have you had it,and has it been a good engine

atm92484_3

02-01-2004, 09:30 PM

I'm still waiting on the parts for the rest of the car but they appear to be the exact same size as the Kyoshos and if they are different, shims will be able to fix it. Plus OSGT said they'll fit, so they'll fit. :D

theShark

02-02-2004, 02:11 AM

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I'm still waiting on the parts for the rest of the car but they appear to be the exact same size as the Kyoshos and if they are different, shims will be able to fix it. Plus OSGT said they'll fit, so they'll fit. :D

no doubt ;)

I've been looking around for the best way to upgrade my sports and it looks like a few of the hyper7 parts will fit or will squeeze into a 7.5

so far i've found

front/rear diffs - unsure about the center...will find out soon.
front/rear universals
center universals - not too sure abt these but some people say they do
front/rear stabalizer bars - unsure abt these too
shocks
wheels :p

I've seen people say a 9.5 body will trim to fit

uDi_MP75

02-04-2004, 05:37 AM

The Dirt Nitro Challenge
Final Results:
Pos Name Car
1 Ryan Cavalieri Kyosho
2 Jeremy Kortz Kyosho
3 Mark Pavidis Kyosho
4 Chad Bradley Mugen
5 Greg Degani Kyosho
6 Jared Tebo (T.Q.) Thunder Tiger
7 Josh Wheeler HoBao
8 Adam Drake Hong Nor
9 Richard Saxton Thunder Tiger
10 Travis Amezcua Hot Bodies

Ninja Viper

02-11-2004, 03:51 PM

I am looking a purchasing a Kanai that the owner says is the 1st edition, but to me it looks like a K2. Can you guys please let me know the difference between the K1 and the K2? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ninja Viper

02-11-2004, 04:01 PM

Here is a naked pic.

OldskoolGT

02-11-2004, 10:56 PM

Looks like a Kanai I. Some of the differences between the K and K2 are 22 degree front hub carriers, a bigger splash guard for the fuel tank, and 3.5 mm shocks.

Blaster,

The gold and black look great together.

Ninja Viper

02-12-2004, 04:45 PM

Thanks Oldskool, I think you are right.

Blaster

02-13-2004, 04:55 AM

Thanks OldskoolGT!:D

Blaster

02-14-2004, 01:26 PM

I have placed this post in another forum. But would like to share with you as most parts I have made so far are for K2 and MP 7.5 buggies.

I made my OWN parts on 7075 Aluminum!! Had a great (Dutch) friend incentive. The parts are 3mm thick, not polished yet. Same tolerances as the originals from Kyosho (yet expensive)and other manufacturers.

Sooner will make my own chassis, radio plates, suspension arms, everything. Without anodization the shock towers cost $10.15. Guess if I should open an E-bay store...:rolleyes: You will se my project evolution in here. Hope you enjoy as much as me!:D

theShark

02-14-2004, 02:40 PM

those look pretty good, will you be able to do any custom designs?

Blaster

02-14-2004, 03:22 PM

Yeah. But those will take more time and work to have it ready. Calculations needs to be done to make it capable to support the hard use conditions...:rolleyes: At the end, it doesn't compensate the $$$.:(

Ninja Viper

02-20-2004, 11:47 AM

Hi guys, I did end up purchasing the Kanai pictures above. I just got it yesterday and have given it a good once over. Let me say this car is sweet, everything is nice and tight and it looks like it was really well maintained.
My dilema now is that I really seem to get caught up in the "biggest and best" mentality. I feel that my car is inferior because it is the first edition of the Kanai and not the 2nd (which seems most popular) or 3rd.
I am guessing a lot of you fall into this as well, probably why you don't see too many K1s around. Is the 3 or even the 2 that much more superior a car over mine? Please keep in mind I am not asking feature wise, more so performance-wise.
Any thoughts on this would be well appreciated.

OldskoolGT

02-20-2004, 03:54 PM

All 7.5s (except for the Sport) are very similar. The K3 just has the latest tweaks.

Check out ebay for good prices on K2/K3 parts. If you want to upgrade your buggy, I suggest you look for some K2 shock towers (slightly revised geometry over the original) and 3.5 mm shocks (adds significantly to durability), 20 or 22 degree front hub carriers, and K2 front universals. Wih those changes along with the parts mentioned in the first paragraph, you will basically have a K2.

OldskoolGT

02-20-2004, 03:59 PM

I forgot to mention that you also need the new upper front suspension arms to use the 20/22 degree front hubs.

The best and most significant upgrade you can do is probably the 20 degree hubs/upper arms and K2 front universals since it affects the steering quite a bit.

offroadcrazy01

02-21-2004, 08:29 PM

does any body know the name of the site with the 1/8 buggy set-up's on it I lost it

atm92484_3

02-23-2004, 01:30 PM

I just picked up a Top P5; does anyone know what plug Novarossi included with the engine?

OldskoolGT

02-23-2004, 04:02 PM

IIRC, a #6 plug came in my Rex P5.

Blaster

02-23-2004, 04:09 PM

offroadcrazy01 - try this http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm Hope it helps.

offroadcrazy01

02-26-2004, 11:01 PM

thxs

marctroy

03-07-2004, 10:59 AM

I'm in the process of building a Kanai II but I'm having a problem with the rear diff. When I try to turn the center CDV, it won't turn more than about 200 degrees out of 360, but the individual rear wheels do turn 360 degress when I turn them by hand.
Any ideas?

Thanks....

P.S. I had some problems setting the "backlash" on the diffs since there was no explanation of what "backlash" is or how to tell if it's set correctly...

offroadcrazy01

03-07-2004, 11:07 AM

www.nitrocross.com

theShark

03-07-2004, 09:17 PM

Originally posted by marctroy
I'm in the process of building a Kanai II but I'm having a problem with the rear diff. When I try to turn the center CDV, it won't turn more than about 200 degrees out of 360, but the individual rear wheels do turn 360 degress when I turn them by hand.
Any ideas?

hrm...check too see if the grub screw on the center universal isn't hitting anything

kanaiforme

03-08-2004, 12:51 AM

I was talking to a racer about 1/8 buggys.The discusion came up about which buggy to get.He said the top 3 are all really close design wise and so.He said there was only so many ways to build a buggy.He said he has drove them all and said he thought they were all pretty close performance wise.What brought it up was i told him i wanted the new k-3 and we talked about the price.$749.99 just for car,decent motor $300.00 misc spares $300.00.I was under the idea that the k-2 was out a while but he said onlyabout a year and a half.He said all the cars keep coming out with a new high end model about the same time??I dont mind paying a small fortune to get set up but to do it every year or so is just crazy.Please tell me what you guys opinions are.Thanks

OldskoolGT

03-08-2004, 01:16 AM

marctroy,

Backlash is the play between the ring and pinion gears of the diff. Look at a diff mounted inside the bulkhead. You can probably wiggle the diff side to side a little bit because of the play in the ring and pinion gear. You want to minimize this play while and have a good gear mesh. Use trial and error with the shims to accomplish this.

atm92484_3

03-08-2004, 04:08 AM

Kanai, it generally costs about the same to race a Kyosho, Mugen or Ofna. Kyoshos might be the most expensive out of the box but even the best Ofnas have some cheap parts that either prematurely wear out or break; universals, diff gears, and steering knuckles add up very fast. After reading some comments and reviews on Ofnas, this was enough to convince me to spend the extra money 1 1/2 years ago and get a 7.5 to race. I haven't looked back or regretted it since. Don't get me wrong, Ofnas have some decent cars, but they just aren't built like Kyoshos.

Blaster

03-08-2004, 06:34 AM

offroadcrazy - nice site. Tks.:D

KanaiDude

03-08-2004, 07:23 AM

Kanai- just like atm said, stick with a mugen or kyosho they are much better cars in the long run. There are quite a few racers at my track with a hyper 7 it's an ok car, but the k2 beets them, the x5 is ok, the question should be a K2 or K3 and that depends on how much racing/bashing you intend to do. If you intend to be really serious about racing spend the extra money it is worth it, you will just spend it in hop ups and replacement parts in the future.

jeroen

03-08-2004, 04:04 PM

Nice too see this forum is moving on.

I had my first practise on a buggy track: http://www.kyosho.nl/purmerend.html

I enjoyed alot(thanks too Blaster)I'm still a newby on driveing the buggy,but will practise alot this year.

The first real race will be in 2 weeks.

Blaster

03-10-2004, 05:40 AM

Jeroen - Really nice pics. Nice track - I wish we had something close to it nearby... Great you started your RC races!:D :D :D :D

I am sure we all will see your continuous development as a racer in this forum. ;) I bet you'll have fun.:cool: :p

KanaiDude

03-10-2004, 07:11 AM

Wow Jeroen thats a neat looking track I've never seen anything like that for agas off road, I bet you have a wee bit of traction on there, do you do any sliding at all? Great pics keep lup the good work! and have fun!!

speedydave

03-11-2004, 02:16 AM

Hey, can someone do me a favor? I run an MBX5, but I need new throttle linkage (brake link mounts keep coming loose), and I've heard that the 7.5's linkage is way better made than the Mugen's. Could someone please take me a nice closeup pic of their throttle linkage so I can see how it differs from the Mugen? I forgot to look at someone's at the track last Saturday, and I won't be at the track for a while, so this would be really helpful. Thanks!

colinradford

03-11-2004, 04:53 AM

Not very close up but it should give you an idea.

http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCBig/inferno%20005.jpg

420k image!

jeroen

03-12-2004, 04:31 PM

Hi

Indeed lots and lots of grip.

I think too many for me right now(I like sliding more)
But on the other hand the car will stay clean,and I realy mean clean:D

Did change my setup for this weekend,so we will see what will happen now.

KanaiDude

03-12-2004, 04:45 PM

Man I just love those pics, it's like a minature put-put/nitro gas off road track, wish we had one of those...

speedydave

03-12-2004, 07:14 PM

Thanks colin!

jeroen

03-14-2004, 02:42 PM

HI all

I bought a new digi vid cam this week,and I had too test it at the local buggy track this weekend.

So I made a funny vid of it: HIT ME (http://www.xs4all.nl/~vheeren/Purmerend/Purmerend.wmv)

KanaiDude

03-14-2004, 04:54 PM

Jeroen ~ great job! what a treat, i did not go racing this weekend, that hit the spot...

uDi_MP75

03-14-2004, 06:00 PM

For guys running the k-factory main h-pins, which last longer before they get grooves from the a-arms in them? The K-factory ones or the stock kyosho ones? just curious..... i've got one or two that have started wearing very slight grooves (for both types), and have no idea which material holds up better.

The e-clips don't bother me, I almost prefer them because I don't need to remove bulkhead to remove pins.

im running k-fac ones in rear and kyosho up front

uDi_MP75

03-18-2004, 09:01 PM

hey guys... got a friend in canada working on a design for 7.5 towers, and wondering if you've got any ideas. He cnc mills stuff and sells it on ebay (username mmurray70), so far its just been stuff for the 7.5.

these are some of the chassis braces he does right now:
http://server6.uploadit.org/files/Uditha-DCP03613.jpg

and yeah hes a bit stuck on what to do with shocktowers, i was messing around freehand and came up with these, what do you guys think? Obviously there needs to be some cutout up top for shock clearance, and also the mill can't do perfect sharp edges, they'll have a 1.5mm radius instead - but other than that any ideas?

http://server6.uploadit.org/files/Uditha-udis_tower2.jpg

just a sketch, any weak points etc on that? you guys think it looks good or crap?

udi

KanaiDude

03-18-2004, 11:24 PM

Hey uDi great sketch, reminds me of fioroni's, if he could anodize dark gray, and then have the punchout shinny silver like the fioroni's that would be cool i love that look. I would make them fairly thick, that looks pretty trick to, looks good! I have those chassis braces, i have seen his motor mounts and pin braces to, good work, my braces are holding up fine...

uDi_MP75

03-19-2004, 10:48 AM

thanks man, i like the fioroni's anodizing style also, but the way he's set up right now i think it would just be too much of a pain - unless he outsourced it to someone else or something.

he's got like a set of vibratory tumblers that polish the pieces to mirror shine now.. should look good enough like that for now methinks.

good to hear you've got his braces :), i got a pair coming sometime soonish

just drew another one with slightly rounder corners and some cutouts, does it look lame this way? it's 2am and i'm bored as well as sleepy which isn't a good combination.

the goal is (or at least was) to look good, and not be too weak in any particular area.

http://server6.uploadit.org/files/Uditha-udis_tower4.jpg
anyways bedtime for now *yawn*

atm92484_3

03-23-2004, 12:13 AM

Udi, those shock towers are looking pretty sick.

For you guys running TCD diffs, would running one in the center make it any easier to slide the car through turns? By slide, I do not mean an all out drift, but more of breaking the rear end loose and getting a little slide in the turns (similar in style to full scale rally cars).

7.5man

03-23-2004, 12:49 AM

atm:

I run the lsd/tcd in the front of my K2 90% of the time. I originally ran the lsd/tcd in the front/center diff. But after finding thru diff changes and hrs of tracktime I found out one thing that is true for sure.

"If you put a lsd/tcd diff in the center diff position with standard diffs on each end of the car the car will still want to push (lack of low speed & on power steering):.

I tryed LSD/7000/3000 with a WS7 at the end of last season and I like the lsd/tcd in front as it adds extra turn-in power. I race on a sandy/loam track with "Great Traction"!.....but it gets rutted and rough as the day goes on. I like the 3000 in the rear. If you can smooth out your driving the car can turn on a dime and has tremendous forward drive and very acceptable on power steering. Acceleration is a good thing!

hope this helps ya....

:)

KanaiDude

03-23-2004, 09:05 AM

Hey Guys - I was running 3,7,1 and was having a little problem with my rear end (heh) so I switched to a LSD up front and went to LSD,5,1 and am having a much much much easier time driving with this setup, it is so much more forgiving to me being fairly new, I was driving much harder then I usually do this weekend, blasting into turns and out, the difference was amazing, much easier through the ruts and turns...

On another note do you guys have any problems with the K2 shocks, mine seem to leak, 1 or 2 of them always after a rebuild, i even use some green slime on the o-rings, I never had this problem with the stock 7.5 shocks which I am thinking of putting back on now.

Has anyone run a black case JP modified P5 or seen one in action?? you think it is worth the extra money, can you really feel more horses then a standard P5 or sirio .21??

atm92484_3

03-23-2004, 09:59 AM

Thanks for the input guys. Towards the middle of last season, I was able to dive the car into the turns pretty consistently (packed underneath but with a layer of soft, dry dirt on top), but the track started to groove up more and I couldn't find a set-up that allowed me to consistently "dive" into the turns. I guess I just need the rain and cold weather to end so I can go practice, tune, and find a new set-up. :(

Kanai, I've seen regular P5s run and they seemed to be too much power for some drivers. Its almost scary to think what JP modded one would do. I would say unless you are 100% on your game and the only think holding you back is a lack of power, then the JP is worth it; otherwise, I think you're better off just getting the regular P5 and a good pipe or servo.

7.5man

03-23-2004, 01:01 PM

KanaiDude:

There was a problem with the early K2 shocks. They were tearing the bladders. Kyosho has new style bladders out now and if I remember some racers were dremeling the sharp edge of the shock and smoothing it out were the bladder sits so they wouldn't get cut.

:)

OldskoolGT

03-23-2004, 01:15 PM

atm,

I think 7.5man summed up the TCD stuff very well, I just wanted to add that you can try a TCD in the front and rear of the car (with a standard diff in the center) for the ultimate turn-in. TCDs front and rear make the buggy super nimble and offer incredible steering. This setup is probably too twitchy for some people, but I like it on tight, high bite tracks.

KanaiDude,

If newly rebuilt shocks are leaking from the o-rings, the shock shafts might be worn out. The wear will not be obvious, but a small decrease in the shaft diameter from wear will result in leaking due since the o-rings won't fit as tightly.

KanaiDude

03-23-2004, 07:21 PM

I've only been running these shocks for a few months, but i don't know if they are the new bladders or not, but that does seem to be the problem, and a decent amount of oil is probably comming from the overflow hole in the cap. I don't think the oil is comming from the o-ring I should have been more clear on that. I do decent size spacers but maybe I need just a little more so there is no possibility of hitting the bladders.

I want to bid on this motor is pretty hot looking http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3183190309&category=19168&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1 but it is sorta silly I already have a p5 and a sirio, but I could sell the p5, just kidding looks like a beast though.

Another lesson learned, I should have listened to you guys, my carbon fiber front tower took a hit this weekend, it's not bad, but cosmeticaly is terrible now. So I ordered some fioroni option team ones and a set of fioroni break pads to for 88 dollars shipped from meganitro.com http://www.meganitro.com/ thats pretty impressive price even better then ebay since fioroni is such a hot item on there. I got a usps priority mail email confirmation the same day I placed my order, sweeet. Do you guys no any other places to get fioroni parts?

Funny how I am just as enthusiastic about running my rc10gt and have it hopped up just as much but I don't even look at that thread on here unless I am looking for something specific, 1/8 scale rules :D

atm92484_3

03-23-2004, 07:33 PM

Originally posted by KanaiDude
1/8 scale rules :D

Thats why my FT GT was torn apart over Christmas break, cleaned, and I never felt like reassembling it so its just sitting in a box in pieces. :D

Thanks for the idea OSGT. I might have to pick up a 2nd set of gears for the rear diff and give that a shot.

OldskoolGT

03-23-2004, 10:14 PM

KanaiDude,

Are you building the shocks like in the K2 manual? It incorrectly shows to put the bladder in the wrong place which results in lots of oil leakage.

KanaiDude

03-24-2004, 07:05 AM

Yea I'm following the manual, but how else can they be installed but stuck into the shock cap? If I remember right there is a small lip on the inside of the cap that the bladders fit into, it takes a little playing but they fit in there pretty snug, is this wrong? Thanks guys...

OldskoolGT

03-24-2004, 10:35 AM

The bladder sits on top of the first lip, not in between the 2 lips. When you have the shock assembled, the edge of the bladder should be in contact with the top of the shock body where the threads start (not inside the shock cap between the two lips).

OldskoolGT

03-24-2004, 10:43 AM

here's a bad pic from the K3 manual to explain what I am talking about.

OldskoolGT

03-24-2004, 10:51 AM

one more time

KanaiDude

03-24-2004, 11:00 AM

WOW I pulled a complete HOMER on that one, thank you very much for the picture, I will rebuild them again this weekend, awesome I don't have to switch back to my 3mm shafts...

dgrobe2112

03-24-2004, 04:09 PM

hey fellas.. thought i would share some pics of this weekends races.. the NCRC Nitro Open in Austin.. got some personal pics of my car.. thought i would share..

http://www.ncrc.citymaker.com/i/Nitro%20Open/D_Grobe.jpg

and in this picture, i am in 3rd place leader is in the middle.. and the guy in front is 2nd.. we are getting lapped.. :(
http://www.ncrc.citymaker.com/i/Nitro%20Open/Joor_2.jpg

uDi_MP75

03-24-2004, 04:28 PM

lookin good dgrobe.

local track here is almost done, will get pics when done. cant wait to race :)

teamselpats

03-27-2004, 12:32 PM

hey guys i just ordered some team blue star shocks, what do u guys think about them

uDi_MP75

03-28-2004, 01:13 AM

Sorry, but i've heard they are not very good, and personally wouldn't run anything but the Kyosho shocks.

I might be wrong though since it's second hand info, but next time it might be wise to ask before you order.

jeroen

03-28-2004, 03:08 PM

Hi guys

uDi_MP75

Those shocktowers look awesome!
I have some of his chassis braces aswell,great stuff,can you let him know I like them?

dgrobe2112

That track looks very good too me,nice pics.
I see most of the buggies have an nicely painted body

I have been too the track for the 3e time now,and I like it more each time I went there.
Driving skills are becoming alitle better every time aswell :D
The kanai2/O.S RZ has gone true 1 gallon and everything is still 100%
as I did nothing on the car yet,only different setups.
Will get me some white springs this week,as the blue once are way too soft!

Last but not least new pics: http://www.rc-racingcars.com/gallery/album99

P.S the guy who makes the pics is getting better in it every time aswell :p (he uses a nice cam,but its very hard too make some nice sharp pics)

blemaxx

03-30-2004, 11:19 PM

Ok I know fioroni makes sweet parts but I want to do something different. What do you all think of the Racers Edge pro parts? I like the look and they seem strong. Let me know what you guys think. This is for a K3 looks like this post sees more people than the K3 one!

atm92484_3

03-31-2004, 12:13 AM

I have a full RE Pro set on my K2 and it was well worth it (see below). They aren't the cheapest, but the hard anno look absolutely rocks and the finish and machining is second to none. For quality and durability, I personally feel its a toss up between the Fiornoi and the RE. If you want more high resolution pics of the RE kit, drop me a PM with your email address; RCCA won't let me post the full sized images.

KanaiDude

03-31-2004, 07:10 AM

Hey atm sweet looking, did you just pic up the OS pipe, I just got me one of them to, going to put it on this weekend. Hey i've had a few people tell me now I shouldn't run 2 fuel filters, because of loading with fuel, do you have any problems like that, I am going to switch to just 1 and see if idl's a little more consistent...

atm92484_3

03-31-2004, 10:06 AM

I got the O.S. pipe back around Christmas but its been sitting on the car ever since. All of last season, I ran 2 Ofna fuel filters and I didn't really have a problem with tuning or consistency. I just swapped them for Kyosho ones this spring since blue looked terrible on the car. :p

blemaxx

03-31-2004, 10:32 AM

Thanks atm92484 3 That is a cool looking buggy! I like the hard anno. also.

7.5man

03-31-2004, 11:01 AM

KanaiDude:

I also use 2 filters on my 7.5. I have them mounted on the top center diff plate and a Y connector into and after them for the fuel lines. I use both screens in my filters. Reason for the Y connectors is that if by some chance 1 filter plugs up during running the other 1 will do the job to finish the race. If you run 1 filter into the other on the same line then either filter could plug up and shut down fuel flow. Your race would be over by the time you figure out the problem.

Also you can use 3 filters to bring the Kcar tank to 125cc spec. Just mount the 1st filter in front of the fuel tank with no screen and then use the Y connectors and run the last 2 filters after as stated above. This will get you maximum milage and keep you within the rules.

I'm sorry I don't have pics.

:)

Blaster

04-04-2004, 03:34 PM

Hey folks! I've been out for a while but after get a cable connection (previous was through $$$$$atelite) I am back.

I made some mods to my K2 during my absence. The body shell has a new painting scheme, removed the rear and center TCD and installed new diffs (similar to the ones used on LM2, MF, etc). And the engine now is a Novarossi RX-21 P5 LS Modified instead of the O.S VZ-B. Had some challenge to tune it properly but now it runs very fine.

My Proline Dirty Harry tires are not handling all the power to the track. I heard that Proline Crime Figthers are way better on hard dirty tracks... What tires do you use?

NoleC5

04-05-2004, 08:27 AM

Hi guys, couple of quick questions, if you don't mind:

1) I'm having a problem with fule line splitting right before the nipple on the Kyosho fuel filters. I have tried 3 different filter so far and it happens with all of them on my K car. The funny thing is, that I have been experimenting with an MBX5 and have used the same filters with no problems. Any tips here?

2) I would like to lighten up my K2 some if possible, can anyone give me some suggestions. It is basically stock but I do have the RE chassis braces, run all three standard diffs and a 48 tooth spur. I don't know if I should get diff, shock towers or a differnt chassis????

3) And finally, I am using airtronics servos and need to find aluminum servo horns that fit directly onto the airtronics servos. Does anyone know where I can get these, both single and double style?

Thank you!!!

dgrobe2112

04-05-2004, 09:22 AM

Nole.. for your servo horns.. Racers Edge has them.. they come with the inserts to make them work on your airtronics servos.. as far as the fuel line splitting before the filter.. try a different brand fuel line.. some line is too small and wont work.. funny... but my stock fuel line fits great over my gast tank nipple.. but is very tight over my fuel filter nipple.. i used bigger fuel line.. and havent had a problem..

As far as lightening your car. there are little things.. like get a lighter chassis.. the Fioroni chassis is light.. Also.. get the K3 chassis.. it is milled to make it lighter.. you can go to Carbon fiber radio tray.. center brace.. and also steering rack brace.. the pros do other things.. like put their own milling into the chassis... and they drill their drive cups.. and things like that.. Proline make a light wheel.. use the plastic servo tray mounts.. they are lighter than the aluminum

Definitly upgrade your shock towers.. i use the Full racers edge kit on my car.. those shock towers are sweet.. Ratzas has some sweet ones.. and the Fioroni Ultra series are slick too..

OldskoolGT

04-05-2004, 09:47 AM

NoleC5

04-05-2004, 02:05 PM

Its definitely the fuel line. I had the same problem on my car with a certain brand of fuel line.

As far weight savings goes, you will only gain weight with aftermarket shock towers (and many other aftermarket aluminum parts) because they are considerably thicker than stock. Consider getting a Lithium-ion receiver pack, craddock brakes, and titanium screws for dropping some weight off the car. Another big weight savings is not running OFNA dish wheels, they weigh a ton compared to the spoked Kyosho wheels.

Wow, thanks for the quick responses guys, I really appreciate the information. As far as the fuel line, I'm not sure if I'm not supposed to say the brand, but I'm using GS medium fuel tubing. Could you suggest another brand? That still seems odd that it wouldn't break on the Mugen but it is breaking on the Kyosho, I wonder if my setup could have anything to do with it. I'd like to be able to order a 50' roll of it if possible.

I forgot to mention that I am running the craddock bracks, 4 thin discs total.

As far as the fironi chassis, is it a direct fit? What I'm mean is, are there any modifications that are required in order to make it work or is it a straight bolt on application. I guess I could also get the carbon fiber radio tray and the steering plate to save some weight as well.

dgrobe2112

04-05-2004, 02:14 PM

The fioroni chassis is a direct fit.. nothing shaved needed.. as far as fuel tubing.. i usually buy the stuff that comes on the roll.. shop charges bout $1 per foot.. if you want to save some weight.. take one of the discs out of the front brake setup..

atm92484_3

04-05-2004, 03:28 PM

Could you suggest another brand?

Give Dubro tubing a shot. I've been using their stuff for almost 5 years and I've never had a fuel line split.

uDi_MP75

04-05-2004, 07:14 PM

OSGT - where are you seeing Li-ion rx packs? I use and prefer the lithiums for most other things - but haven't seen any premade packs for RC use... might have to get me one (will need a new charger though ugh)

Nole - if you don't mind giving it a shot, the fibre-lyte towers are supposed to be fairly strong, and should help drop a lot of weight compared to the ally ones, especially the thick aftermarket options. They'll also have the radio tray/noseplate/center diff plate, not sure if they are heavier than CF - prolly about the same.

OldskoolGT

04-05-2004, 09:57 PM

I am not exactly sure where to get Li-Ion battery packs, I have only seen them on a fellow racer's buggy. The pack was the size of 1 AA battery. The only downside is that it doesn't provide 6 volts, but rather something like 5.7V. Significant weight savings can be made with one of those packs though.

KanaiDude

04-06-2004, 04:26 PM

Blaster - Crime Fighters all the way, I have 4 new pairs waiting for this season, I usually use some older ones for practice and then put a new pair on for qualifying and the mains, depending on how many people show up, less then 10 1/8 scales show I probably run used tires all day, more then 10-15 I put on a fresh pair before the real races start.

This is the fuel line I use by Dubro just thought I would post a link, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRR5&P=7 I usually buy the 2 foot packs because i like different colors but the 50 foot roll saves a few bucks, another alternative is that RCBoyz on ebay sells this same tubing at 60 cents a foot, not a bad deal either...

On the weight issue, I am happy now using carbon fiber for my tray, diff brace, and front brace, and got the fioroni ultra shock towers and JT chassis, the suggestion about not using full dish rims is good to, to bad the kyosho rims cost so much. Wow lithium rcvr pack good idea keep posting if someone hooks up with one.

7.5man

04-07-2004, 03:10 PM

Heres a fellow with them!

www.hammond-racing.com

:)

KanaiDude

04-12-2004, 08:32 AM

7.5- Cool websight to poke around on a few minutes. I got race fever who else??? :D :D I got to wait 5 days :mad: :mad: Post your latest rebuild pics guys! I will post one later this week, ultra racing towers, os 2050 pipe, new body! Weeeee :p :p

dgrobe2112

04-12-2004, 09:01 AM

i got race fever as well.. i gotta wait till friday.. going to the Victoria Nitro Invitationals this weekend.. long wait.. but.. i got my buggy completely apart to rebuild.. so that will pass the time..

jeroen

04-13-2004, 11:25 AM

Me too :D

Will get my new engine this week: CMB raptor (http://www.reidrc.com/off-road.htm)

So I'll be racing again next weekend cause of the short breakin these cmb engine require.

Will do some small rebuild/check up of the car this week also.

Still need too find myself a good setup on that too much grip(fake grass,carpet) track where I'm running my car most of the time

Blaster

04-14-2004, 06:44 PM

Jeroen - you are taking these races too serious huh? A CMB Raptor? On that grippy track?? This buggy will fly.... :D

Don't forget the pics!! :rolleyes:

PS: what happened to the idea of a VZ-B??

KanaiDude

04-15-2004, 01:04 PM

Jeroen, with so much grip you probably roll alot, I would consider watering my diffs down to like 3-5-1 if I was you will probably help alot, and also maybe tweak the camber on the rear wheels to like -2-4 degrees, just a thought...

jeroen

04-15-2004, 02:21 PM

Blaster I already wanted the CMB for a very long time,and I think it will be a better engine for me.

Kanaidude

Thanks for the diffs oil setup tip,but should I use normal or LSD diffs?
Camber for both front and rear are already around -3,only said thing is that the tires will wear out on only 1 side,but I can life with that.

Most guys who drive around there buggies for years at the track,have found them selfs a pretty good setup,atleast there cars are not rolling over in fast turns that often.
But most of them have a MBX-5(which is a nice car for the track),so I can't copy there setup 100%

1 last question for now
What is a basic used shock oil?
I run 35WT both front and rear with the white springs.

P.S I will drive my car at some other tracks(dirt tracks aswell) these up coming months.

uDi_MP75

04-15-2004, 10:56 PM

hey guys, my canadian friend (mmurray70) finished his shocktowers.

the rear one is on ebay already, not the greatest pic but you get the drift. The parts should be much shinier in person.
looks pretty sweet still i thought, tell me what you guys think! :) i'll post the front one also when it goes up on ebay, and will definately post better pics of the towers on the K2 once I get my pair in the mail.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=3188237067&ssPageName=STRK:MESSE:IT

OldskoolGT

04-16-2004, 02:14 AM

Looks nice. I wonder what those 3 shock mounting holes above the regular 2 rows are for?

blemaxx

04-16-2004, 02:18 AM

Don't know about the ones he posted but the Fioroni ones have the same holes. I think they may just make it lighter.

dgrobe2112

04-16-2004, 09:11 AM

as far as shocks go.. i start with 60 front .. 40 rear.. and go from there.. that is my starting spot.. i was using 50 30 but went back to 60 40..

dgrobe2112

04-16-2004, 09:12 AM

that shock tower is pretty sweet.. looks just like my racers edge one.. but silver.. :)

Blaster

04-16-2004, 09:15 AM

Well I think that this might be the right time to place a question that bothers me for a while now. I am developing my own 7075 parts to my K2 (chassis, shock towers, servo tray, front braces, etc...) and wish to make them in titanium. My idea is save weight, following Collin Chappman's mote.

Most aftermarket alu parts I see nowadays are thicker (more than 3mm) than the stock ones. In turn, besides you gain rigidity (wich i don't think is the need on K2/K3 stock parts) you also gain weight.

My question is: does the K2/K3 needs stronger parts or if I make them lighther (but still strong i.e titanium) it will be more usefull on races? :confused:

7.5man

04-16-2004, 09:28 AM

Blaster:

Titanium weighs more than aluminum.

:)

OldskoolGT

04-16-2004, 10:21 AM

Blaster,

If your stock parts are holding up for you, there is no need to make them thicker and heavier. And just the opposite, if you are bening shock towers, then they need to be thicker. :)

For me, the stock parts have held up great. So I don't feel the need (yet) to buy those beefier aftermarket parts.

As 7.5 Man mentioned in the last post, Titanium is heavier than aluminum. So the only way to make a ti part lighter is using less metal (i.e. making the part thinner).

uDi_MP75

04-16-2004, 11:03 AM

I did bend my K2's stock front tower (albeit in a nasty crash) so I took it as an excuse for pushing Mark along with getting his cnc towers finished, and I guess in the end it worked out.

I doubt the few grams weight difference is going to make much of a difference in action - but like oldskool said, if you're not bending the stock parts theres no need to bother with aftermarket.

those 3 (4 actually) extra mounting holes are just there to match the fioroni's (like blemaxx said) since the fioroni's outer shape was roughly used to design the shape of the new rear towers. And it looks empty around there if theres nothing drilled out, so why not :) it's just a cosmetic thing mainly.

Blaster - like I said I doubt the weight gain is huge - they are only 6mm thick on the thickest parts, the rest of the tower is 3mm, and I think in the angled slots he might have gone down to 2mm even.

about making your own parts, I wouldn't bother really - especially if you're not bending or breaking any of the stock parts! and yeah Ti heavier than Al - if your trying to reduce weight, CF for radio tray/noseplate/center diff plate would help - but personally I wouldn't even bother.

Blaster

04-16-2004, 11:13 AM

Oldskool and uDi - thanks for your comments guys! I was planing to save some (small) weight thinking on some (small) improvement on performance of my K2. As Kyosho did with K3. I never bend the stock parts and they seems pretty strong form me. As for the use of titanium I was thinking on thinny parts to get a better advantage of it rigidity compared to the Al.

I will focus firts on improve my driving skills. Latter I can work on these parts... :D

P.S How much weight Kyosho took off from K3 compared to K2?

OldskoolGT

04-16-2004, 11:33 AM

I haven't weighed my K3 yet (or even put it together), but I have heard it is around 4 or 5 ounces lighter than the K2. The weight savings comes from the milled chassis, titanium screws, and reduction of disc brakes (2 instead of 4).

Improving our driving skills will probably help us alot more than any weight savings. If my buggy were 2 pounds lighter, I would still get beat by the fast guys because they hardly ever crash. :)

uDi_MP75

04-17-2004, 10:28 AM

the local offroad track here just got done, finally.
i'm taking the buggy there maybe tommorow to check it out, first time i've actually raced on a track, should be fun. driving skills? :eek:

might get some pics if i can, the track is REALLY small for 1/8, but oh well, better than nothing, and a tracks a track.

this is the front tower by the way
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=3188236322

KanaiDude

04-19-2004, 12:26 PM

Hey gang bad day for me at the track this weekend, had a ton of flameouts with my sirio, Don't ever use a turbo button!!! I am sure most of you know this but I thought I would give it a shot, well Don't!! I am going back to my trusty v01 in leu of a P5 and a sirio, all that powers nice, but I will be glad to take my v01 out next race day and have a nice reliable worry free motor. I am going to switch my diff again, staying with the TCD and red fluid up front, but instead of TCD, 5, 1 I am gonna go TCD 6,2 I think these two consistencies are fairly new to kyosho's line of fluids. Do you guys set your front droop screws at all? I set mine up for the first time because of the slight binding you get in steering when the suspension is fully extended, it was starting to cut into my battery time cause the steering is not totally loose at full extension, so the servo was working harder and draining my pack. So what shock wieght and piston are you guys running on your K2 shocks?

OldskoolGT

04-19-2004, 01:37 PM

KanaiDude,

I use the droop screws like you, to prevent the steering from binding at full droop.

60/40 (front/rear) is a good starting point for oil weight in the K2 shocks. For really rough tracks I have heard of guys using 70 weight in the front.

dgrobe2112

04-19-2004, 02:34 PM

well.. here is what i have found.. i dont use my drop screws.. cuz i havent had a problem with steering binding.. also.. on my diffs.. i use either.. 5-7-1, or on highbite, smooth tracks.. i use the TCD-10-1 or 2 in the rear.. works pretty good .. but i dont like my TCD in there at bumpy tracks..

As far as shocks go.. i run 60 front, 40 rear with the white 1.4x2 pistons.. at the high bight smooth track, i go up on both.. 70-50... but i always start at 60-40.. and pretty much stay there..

OldskoolGT

04-19-2004, 03:09 PM

I have dremeled the downstops on the front of my buggy to get maximum droop with the A-block. Doing so adds a *significant* amount of droop which makes it work really well on rough tracks.

Whe the buggy is new or undremeled, the steering probably won't bind due to excess droop. But when the chassis or arms wear in, resulting in more droop, you may run into that problem. You can aslo exceed the angle at which the universals will work smoothly at with too much droop/steering as well.

dgrobe2112

04-19-2004, 03:37 PM

gotcha.. and your right.. i just replaced all the arms on my buggy this past weekend..

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 10:30 AM

What clutch you guys running? I am going back to standard 3 shoe, trinity one with hard shoes, alluminum has to much punch sometimes and I can't say I care for the fioroni one either, going back to a V01 also instead of a P5, 5 ports is to much power for me being a rookie, can't get a reliable idle to save my life, I have heard of other peoples with the problem to on the p5, idles for maybe 15 seconds and starts to load up.

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 10:54 AM

Well, i got a WS7II, and i run 1.1 springs with drilled composite shoes.. never had a idling problem.. even with the P5, load up problems.. is mainly a tuning issue.. fat on the bottom.. but turn the idle up.. i know when you first start the car.. may seem to be a high idle.. but it will go down as soon as the motor heats up..

Kanai.. what you gonna do with your fironi clutch.. let me know.. may be interested.

OldskoolGT

04-20-2004, 11:06 AM

KanaiDude,

Exactly what kind of idling problems are you having?

Most guys tune their engines so they don't idle all day. Maybe 5 or 6 seconds of idling before the engine starts to load up. Being able to idle for a long period of time is usually a sign of being too lean on the bottom.

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 11:43 AM

or your idle is high enough to keep the engine running with a fat bottom.. but the pro guys.. supposedly.. if the car is tuned correctly.. it wont sit there and idle..

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 02:21 PM

Yea, I am not to enthusiastic about not idling for more the 5 or 6 seconds, I do like the power, I did well with my p5 in the A main a month back ran perfect for 20 minutes came in at 240 degrees, cam in 4th, that was probably my best race showing so far, I guess I just feel like the 5 port runs a little rougher and like I said I'm still a rookie, so this just adds to my pre race panic, I would rather have a more reliable mill right now so I can concentrate more on my setup and smoothing out my driving. I have seen other racers with the p5 that feel the same way I do, I have also seen a ws7 2 idle all day long, I think the p5 inparticular was meant to be run a little hot, it likes it fat on the bottom as well, I've talked to other racers no matter how lean you get it will never idle for more then 15 seconds. I just don't like having to compensate my idle screw just to keep the motor running for more then 5 seconds. I will probably hold on to the clutch for now, but thanks for the interest...

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 02:32 PM

Kanai.. no matter what.. i think you need to adjust your idle.. i adjust mine with the tuning as well.. cuz the leaner it is.. the lower you can idle the motor.. the fatter it is.. the higher it needs to idle.. thats what i think.. and i never have problems with the motor dying on the start.. or dying in a turn when i am off the gas.. that sorta deal.. i also have tuned the P5 many times for my teammates.. and i have no problems with tuning them.. i think you got a good motor.. no need to worry bout it.. if you are interested in selling it.. let me know.. i may get it for you.. cuz i need a 5 port motor for some tight tracks.. i got a WS7II.. and a WS7.. thinkin of putting a 5 port piston and sleeve in it..

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 03:03 PM

I have adjusted my idle screw to the moon and back, from the way it sounds I have this motor running properly, loads up after 10 seconds, fat on the bottom, tons of power, like I said before though I have only been doing this for half a year, and I started with an RZ and it gave me no trouble idles like a friggen top, very quick enough power for the several tracks close to me. I'm gonna run the rz a few races and see the difference, I have a feeling I will like it a little more then the P5 beast for the the time being, maybe switch back mid summer. Thanks for the input guys as usual youve been very helpful really...

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 03:39 PM

well.. i hope your engine woes go away.. and hope you enjoy your RZ.. i liked mine.. but will never go back.. the WS7 is a beast.. the P5's are awsome as well.. i just like the power i get out of these.. seemed my RZ's werent as fast..

Blaster

04-20-2004, 04:42 PM

KanaiDude - I run a P5 with 1.1 springs and stock alu shoes. It runs great! The engine is a little rich yet as I am still breaking it in. But it idles at very low rpm and stays stable as long as I want.... The .21 RX P5 revs from idle without a gap. It gave me a little more work to tune than my O.Ss but nevr had a problem with it. I'll try to make a vid of it.

As a start point, the factory setup is ok. I didn't used the factory setup on races but it allowed the angine to start right on firts attempt, so...

uDi_MP75

04-20-2004, 05:13 PM

I am going back to my trusty v01 in leu of a P5 and a sirio, all that powers nice, but I will be glad to take my v01 out next race day and have a nice reliable worry free motor.

Amen to that, I used my v01 on the track and it was going so smooth, didn't have to touch the needles or restart it once. Sadly its not really mine anymore, as i've sold my second 7.5 with it on ebay recently, so I need to find a new motor - looking at a cheap used JP Pro99 i've found, anyone seen one go? Still going to miss the rz.

As for clutch, i'm using aluminium shoes with kyosho 1.0 springs right now, seems to work well.

osgt - do you prefer the A caster blocks? I've got the A's on the K2 right now but i'm thinking the B's might give a bit quicker steering? im on a toight track.

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 05:35 PM

dgrobe thanks for talking me into keeping my p5 it will do well on the larger tracks, i think the sirio just gave me the blues trying to tune it with a turbo plug was not smart. Now that i hear my p5 is pretty much running like its suposed to i think im just having a little spaz from the bad sirio, I am still looking forward to getting the vo1 and using that next race, but am happy to keep the p5 and break it out later this summer. Blaster i am suprised to hear your p5 will idle all day, i've seen and talked to others that all say it runs like mine, tons of horses, fast, and bogs down after 10 seconds of idle, what plug are you using? I have a nova #8 I believe, anway good day guys gotta stop dreaming of next race day and work on my car or something.

Blaster

04-20-2004, 05:45 PM

KanaiDude - good to know you'll keep your P5. As a long OS fan I have to say that it is good to read that you, uDi and the other guys likes yours v01.

Honestly I had LOTS of trouble before have my P5 adjusted properly. Getting accostumated to the Novarossi (looooong time O.S. fan) was a little tricky. I even found that it has a "4th needle" which should not be moved from factory setup. :o :p After this (hard) learning I could set the engine properly. I'll check my setup (idle turns, etc) and let you know. I'll try to make a vid too.

I am using the Novarossi # 6 glow plug, ambient temp is around 25C (celsius, sorry don't have a converter righ now...) and using Wild Cat Eliminator (http://www.wildcatfuel.com/fuel_eliminator.html) with 14% oil, 20% nitro. I know Novarossi recomends 9% oild but I prefer to have the engine running with a little more oil during break in. :rolleyes:

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 05:54 PM

4 needles.. what.. i know of 3.. where is the 4th..

Blaster

04-20-2004, 06:07 PM

dgrobe2112 - LOL!!! Lucky you!!! I found it by accident. It is not exactly a needle. Better don't mess with it. It is the brass needle located on opposite side of the carb from the slide. That is a kind of mid range needle. It moves the throttle arm in or out. :eek:

blemaxx

04-20-2004, 07:02 PM

I also run the Rex P5 and can let it idle for more than 5-6 seconds. Not sure what the deal is but I find the P5 to be easy to tune. Maybe I just got it right the first time. As for the brass screw you talk about you got it right try not to ever move it! The plug I find that works best in my p5 is the rex/rossi/RB #6 not sure if it's the elevation but it runs best with that.

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 07:13 PM

What fuel are you guys running, I wonder if my #8 plug and 30 percent have something to do with it, I mean once its going its gone running about 240 all day, with tons of bottom end, just hate clearing the bog from idle, i've adjusted the low and high and idle up down and around the block. I was parked next to a not so green racer this weekend with a p5 he was about to throw it in the garbage, he said it had about two solid gallons on it, always had the bog problem but was otherwise good, then it really started acting up he ran two qualifiers and then left for the day, anyway this is where some of my reference has come from besides mine. I haven't ever touched the mid range i supose it could be tweaked like a 1/16 of a turn lean and see if that helped the bog, but whatever the case I know its a nice mill but all engines are not the same. Maybe I'll try a nova 6 plug and 20 percent and see if it runs a little more consistent at idle.

blemaxx

04-20-2004, 10:00 PM

I am using 30% with the #6 plug. I also run about 240. I am running at a high elevation (6.000) so not sure if it has any thing to do with my engine.

atm92484_3

04-20-2004, 10:52 PM

Kanai, have you tried a level hotter plug in the P5? It almost sounds like the 8 is too cold and its not burning off the fuel at idle. If possible, try a 7 or even a 6 and see if that does better.

While we are on the topic of plugs, I have already tried the C6-S plugs while breaking in my P5. Its hard to tell how they are so far since I'm only on tank 5, but what plugs are you guys using on 30%? Any one have any luck with the OD99s?

KanaiDude - good to know you'll keep your P5. As a long OS fan I have to say that it is good to read that you, uDi and the other guys likes yours v01.

Preach on! O.S. needs to bring that engine back. I loved mine but the time came to move on when they discontinued the V01b. :(

KanaiDude

04-22-2004, 01:23 PM

I'm gonna try the 6 this weekend, I am pretty sure that is the problem, cause otherwise the engine is pretty solid, thanks much...

dgrobe2112

04-22-2004, 02:09 PM

Also.. my buddy runs a C5 plug in his P5 motor.. seems to run pretty good.. i run a RB6 in my WS7II

Blaster

04-22-2004, 05:12 PM

KanaiDude - I found by my own - after many mistakes and success- that the glow plug is the most neglected item of a motors but one that uses to give us headaches and last one to be checked when problems happens. Besides all your careful needle tuning and fuel choice, try to use#7 or #6 plug (dunno the altitude, temp, etc of where you run). It might make you enjoy even more your P5! :D

jeroen

04-23-2004, 02:47 PM

Hi guys

I'm abit pissed of right now.

Still no CMB engine at home,and this weekend I should have had my second race of the year.

I made some high detail pics this weekend of my damaged OS RZv99b: http://www.kyosho.nl/OSRZdamage.html

As you can see it isn't a nice thing too watch,I first thought the plug wire broke and came in the engine while running,but 1 of these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000442639&I=LXCS40&P=K) came loose and caused some mess.

I think I will buy a new piston and sleeve for it in the nearby future as the engine itself is still OK,and I liked this engine too much for not fixing it,maybe I will use it in my landmax or keep it a spare for the kanai2.

Nice too read some engine info over here.

dgrobe2112

04-23-2004, 04:20 PM

dang.. that head and piston look like a little piece of sanding block.. dang.. man.. i would get a whole new engin..

KanaiDude

04-23-2004, 04:39 PM

Ouch, I blew an RZ one time, sort of looked like that snapped my conrod, running way to lean. I ditched the motor, as once it gets that hot, and it looks like yours has also, In my opinion the case is not sound anymore, you could rebuild it but I doubt it will ever run like new, I wouldn't spend to much money trying to fix it...

dgrobe2112

04-23-2004, 04:41 PM

ditto.. i had a RG-X mess up on me like that.. and never ran the same either.. so.. i would prolly just keep it for parts..

uaerc

04-23-2004, 05:49 PM

Hi Guys

I have ordered my K3 today. Two actually for me and a freind just. Can anyone advice me on the best engine for this car.

Choices.

1. Sirio Kanai Edition 42000 RPM
2. NovaRossi .21 P5 34000 RPM
3. OS .21 (new one released 4 buggy)

Any feedback will be highly appreciated.

Regards
Aziz

blemaxx

04-23-2004, 08:25 PM

I have not seen many good things about the Sirio Kanai but I have never had one or seen on run in-person. I love my Rex P5 good for tight tracks lots of low end. I just placed an order for a Andy Brown Mod. MAC. I'll tell you the thing is I called just to get some info not buy but after my 45minn. phone call I just had to get one! The people at CMD are they gave me so much info on the engine and how to set it up. I would look at the Mac also from things I have seen it should run about the same as the JP P5 but again that is just from posts I have seen. I will let all you know how it works out when I get it this next week. Most of it depends on the type of track you run on most.

Blaster

04-26-2004, 07:22 AM

Jeroen - man, you should claim for warranty from the guy that rebuilt this engine for you... :eek: As for the CMB, don't they tell you anything about when you'll get the engine??? :mad:

Uarec - in my opinion you will be well served either with OS VZ-B and Rossi P5. I have both and I can tell you that both are race winners. I got my P5 to be a Mario Modified version, tuned by the Mario himself. :D

KanaiDude - how's your engine coing? Had success with your #6 glow?

KanaiDude

04-26-2004, 08:38 AM

Blaster - yea my P5 idles like a top now, the colder plug was the culprit, now i'm like you with my rz and p5 lol except for the Mario part, can you tell a big difference, did you have the mod done before or after break in?

uaerc

04-26-2004, 03:39 PM

Blaster -

the race has come down to the Sirio Kanai which i am getting at 200$ without pipe. and the Nova Rossi P5 Turbo.

The kanai is running fine on one my freinds Hyper 7, the high RPM is the one that i am after..... i Would also like to know the RPM on the WS72

Regards
Aziz

Blaster

04-27-2004, 11:20 AM

Aziz - Seems a good deal! :cool: I never saw a Sirio Kanai running but heard good things about it. Any pics of your ride?

KanaiDude - good to hear that your Rossi is ok now. Man, as we have same engines just schedule the race! lol :D To be honest the P5 Mario Mod is not a power house. Just tunned to Mario Specs. I just bought it because they didn't have the .21 P5 in stock, just this one. What mod you asked me? :(

Jeroen - Did your CMB arrived? Any pics?

Just painting a new body to be used with my Rossi and its purple head. Pics will be posted soon... :cool:

RCRACER2471

04-27-2004, 07:23 PM

Hey everyone. Im looking to get the MP 7.5 for some racing. The only problem is I dont know what engine would work well for it. The price has to be $150 and below. Any input would be great......

colinradford

04-28-2004, 04:54 AM

For $150 you are going to get an engine that works "ok" rather than "well"!

The Ofna Hyper .21 8 port weighs in at $154 ish and is the best bet for your budget, its a pretty strong engine with reasonable power. You can get it with a pullstart or without if you have a starter box.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESC3&P=ML

Don't expect it to match the power of high end Italian engines or the top of the range O.S. engines though!

There is a lower spec 4 port model for $130 or so.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD7&P=ML

Don't forget you will need a tuned pipe as well which will probably cost another $20-30, I used a Hyper 4 port and a Duratrax pipe in my Inferno when I started out.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD494&P=7

The pipe looks nothing like the one in the photo, its not half as ugly!

You can see it in this old picture here: http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCMed/inferno1.jpg

will also need:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLH8&P=0
or a similar item.

I now have a RB WS7 which absolutely screams! :D

uDi_MP75

04-28-2004, 08:24 AM

uaerc - if it's topend you're after, I think the sirio will serve it up, and if it is running well in your friends car why not.

I'm pretty sure the WS72 has higher topend than the P5, so if its between those too and you need higher revs, the WS72 is what id pick outta the two. no idea how they compare to the sirio though.

rcracer2471 - I think colin covered it great, ive heard the 8-ports are pretty decent for the price so id get that, my friend has a the "race" version and it is pretty sweet.

jeroen - sucks about the RZ, looks like someone didnt put the retainer clip in properly... just wait till the cmb comes and if you like it, forget about the RZ. Probably not worth what it'll cost to rebuild. But I must admit the rz's run like a charm :( i miss mine already.

while everyones talking about fuel and plugs, might shoot a question here...

i'm running gluggy fuel - 16% nitro, 18% oil (10% synthetic, 8% castor) and can't seem to get the C5 tuned right. Okay so you're going to say its my fuel, but I don't have a whole lot of choice here.. I *could* go to 20%, or I could drop the oil content, would prefer to do the latter and keep my runtimes. what do you guys think? It seems to have a very tiny window where it will run decent, but it's really hard to find that spot, and i was hoping a change somewhere might let me have a little wider error margin.

...it's running a turbo plug, so thats probably part of the worry - going to get a new one but not sure which. it's got a no.6 now (medium), was thinking of trying one of those RB "cp-02" no.6's next (same but bit more heat resistant), or a no.5 (hotter than 6)

any advice would be great. :o
udi

KanaiDude

04-28-2004, 08:56 AM

ditch the turbo plug and get a standard button and plug, I've been having the same problem with my black head sirio with a turbo plug, the tunning range is just incredibly small, I think turbo plugs are meant for very experienced racers who like there engines tuned a little off the norm anyway...

7.5man

04-28-2004, 10:51 AM

uDi:

Running 16% nitro I would look at taking one of the shims out under the head to increase combustion and lower head clearance. If I'm not mistaken the RB's come set from the factory for 25% nitro. I run 20% with 14% oil in my WS7 and have a head clearance of .019 and use #6 RB plugs. The engine runs great with excellent power and I've got 3.5 gallons thru it and it still has good compression.

:)

Blaster

04-28-2004, 11:48 AM

uDi - I run an OS RG on one car and use a 15% nitro 18% oil in it. The plug is an O.S #8. The performance is great - idle included - but is not for race... :o

My own theory is that when you use fuels that use good quality castor and synthetic oils they don't interfere too much on your performance. Some pros counterbalance the cons of it. What I mean is: If was ME I would:
1) Change the turbo plug to a new one, maybe #6 as you mentioned. Just want to make clear that I use an O.S #7 Turbo plug on my VZ-R (30%nitro, 18% oil) and have no problems with that.

2) If I had to change the fuel, I'd keep the 18% oil and get the 20% nitro. I think that lubrication and heat dissipation provided by a little more (good quality) oil content counterbalance the small gain that could be provided by use fuel with less oil... :rolleyes: My 02 cents only.

Certainly we'll hear different opinions on that (I would like to = live and learning) and at the end it is your call...

uDi_MP75

04-28-2004, 07:11 PM

Thanks guys

blaster - I used to run OS and nova based is nothing like it. Whereas the OS like and run nice with high oil the nova seems to go pretty poorly with it (at least i thought so). Thats why I was thinking of dropping the oil content, even just 2-3%.... anyone think their might be fruit in that?

7.5man - already got a shim removed, forgot to mention that. But to be honest, the one time I had it running nice, it had both shims, so if after a change in fuel and plug it still doesn't work, I might just try putting the second shim back in.

Kdude - sounds right, but i'd really like to try and get it going with the turbo plug/button if i can... i've already got a jp pro on the way for racing (normal plug/offroad) so the c5 is just a bashing/backup motor, like to get it going 'as is' sorta thing.

no one thinks there might be fruit in trying a hotter plug? guess i will try another 6 then. gonna order it today.

Blaster

04-29-2004, 06:42 AM

uDi - agree with what you've said about the Nova. I don't use fuel with 18% oil in it. But some engines (like OS) does respond well to this amount of oil. That's why I mentioned them.

I would try a #5 glow. At leas it will be a reference for you if you have to move back and pick a #6. As for the turbo, as I sad before, they work for me. I'd stay with them...

KanaiDude

04-29-2004, 07:25 AM

If you have time to fuss with the turbo plug and you are not relying on this motor for racing then by all means do so... I have had my turbo sirio tuned perfectly running on the street then get it to the track to have it go to crap, not going to happen again.

offroadcrazy01

04-29-2004, 09:34 AM

Trying to learn how to use the RC Calculator! on rc car action,any body got a link on gearing

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KanaiDude

04-29-2004, 03:23 PM

Hey Udi, i saw your buddy is making almost every part for the k2 now, even brake disks, pretty cool, I might get another set of motor mounts from him 15-18 bucks is cheap for the mounts and the bottom risers, so you can hook it up and leave it on an engine and practically hot swap, or at least have it ready to bolt on in an emergency...

jeroen

04-29-2004, 04:43 PM

Its here

Yesterday I did the breakin(only needs 4/5 tanks for it)
This thing it too powerfull for me at the moment :D

I will try this screamer at the sticky track this weekend.

P.S I should only use a high oil content in O.S engine's,as an example CMB says do no use more than 12%

uDi_MP75

04-29-2004, 10:27 PM

sounds right about the turbo plug, running great one day, back to crap the next.
Got me a quote on some new fuel, 18% nitro, 14% oil (7% castor, 7% synth). What do you guys think? I know 12% oil is reccomended, but i'm a bit scared to go that low. If anyone has any alternative oil % mixes to reccomend, tell me - i can get any blend. I might stick to the 18% nitro though.

Hey Udi, i saw your buddy is making almost every part for the k2 now, even brake disks, pretty cool, I might get another set of motor mounts from him 15-18 bucks is cheap for the mounts and the bottom risers, so you can hook it up and leave it on an engine and practically hot swap, or at least have it ready to bolt on in an emergency...

yup, I got a set coming in the mail for the exact same reason :)
cheaper than towers prices on the normal cast set, and they are the same as the $50 kanai ones minus anodizing.

by the way one more URGENT question - can someone get me all the dimensions on a machine screw for the front bulkhead? The ones that go through the chassis into the bulkhead to hold it down.

uDi_MP75

04-29-2004, 10:29 PM

jeroen - get another video once it's completely broken in!
looks pretty sweet in the car, but the proof is in the pudding :)

KanaiDude

05-02-2004, 04:52 PM

Got rained out this weekend, at least the buggy is ready for next weekends rain date. Gonna change the fuel tubing over to blue but otherwise is looking nice and is running better then ever...

KanaiDude

05-02-2004, 04:53 PM

one more...

dgrobe2112

05-03-2004, 08:49 AM

Looks good Kdude.. even that green tubing looks good.. kinda offset each other..

KanaiDude

05-03-2004, 02:02 PM

You like the green, I was thinking purple for the body or just blue, I'm not to hip on the green with the other colors, not that it really matters once 8am hits on race day but looks nice for now lol. Did you notice my new transponder holder? got it on ebay for 11.99 i think with free shipping, is pretty nice, very protective, just wrote my number down and put it in my pit box, also saves trouble if there are no personals allowed. I'm not sure about the body protector, we'll see how that holds up on race day, good idea its much stronger then stock lexan but will have to see if it helps the nose piece at all.

dgrobe2112

05-03-2004, 02:37 PM

i ended up shoo gooin another peice of lexan to the nose and rear of the car.. for strength.. that transponder holder looks good.. i got a cuztom on as well made out of a AMB box..its black.. works nice..

jeroen

05-03-2004, 03:50 PM

Something different, like the looks of it alot.

And some nice materials inside the car.

What are you running?

I had some trouble tuning my new CMB raptor this weekend :(
I think tuning this engine is alot more difficult than any of my previous engines.

KanaiDude

05-03-2004, 04:13 PM

Thas my new RZ with odonnell head, simply purs and screams just like my 5 cats....

Blaster

05-04-2004, 05:55 AM

Kanai Dude - great looking car. I liked the wheels matching the paint scheme and how you placed the decals. A VZ with O'Donnell head? Must make a vid!!! :cool:

Where you got your transponder holder, I mean, who was the seller?

Does that plastic body protection made by kyosho holds intact if the car hits something? It looks like hard plastic and that could break.

Jeroen - sad to know you had problems with your CMB. Don't the experienced guys on your track help you to tune it? :(

uaerc

05-04-2004, 07:26 AM

Kanai Dude.....

Nicely done car....great Job.

The second picture the Right front wheel seems to be turning to much is that deliberate or ? just curious.

regards
Aziz

KanaiDude

05-04-2004, 08:29 AM

Thanks for the kudos guys... Blaster its an RZ v01 I wish i had a digi cam for video i would use it at the track every weekend, must look into that. I am pretty sure the guy just sells those holders if you do a search for transponder holder or kanai on ebay you should be able to find it. I have not used the body protector yet, it seems like it should work for a while, but 8.99 or whatever its a toss up if its worth it, if it saves your body for a few races thats not a bad thing, its not hard like its gonna break right away there is some flex to it, it depends on much time you have put into your body, and if your nose always has a tendency to break off.

Uaerc - its probably the angle of the picture, i do have hcr front knuckles on there though and i get an insane amount of steering throw, probably 25% more then stock knuckles, the cnc knuckles are of a tighter design allowing for more movement, is the same for fioroni and racers edge knuckles.

Jeroen - that is a bit of a bummer did you try changing glow plug types or shims anything like that, on my p5 a few weeks back i had to cold of a plug in it #8, was banging my head to figure out what was wrong and after like 15 posts we all figured it out, thanks guys...

dgrobe2112

05-04-2004, 09:05 AM

Uaerc.. akerman angle is like that.. the inside wheel turns farther than the outside..

Blaster

05-06-2004, 09:59 AM

Well, I guess that this is the right place to share news with other RC enthusiasts so...

To those who misses the OS RZ-V01 and RZ-V99 I found a LHS selling NIB of them with 12%off over prices listed or even more, upon negotiation.

Here goes

OSM 13844 21RZ-V99B ENGINE 337,99 - 12%off = 297.43
OSM 13845 21RZ-V99B(P) ENGINE 341,89 - 12% off = 300.86
OSM 13860 21RZ-V01B ENGINE 339,29 -12%off = 298.57
OSM 13861 21RZ-V01B(P) ENGINE 341,89 -12%off = 300.86

The e-mail is hobbys@hobbys.com.br

dgrobe2112

05-06-2004, 10:33 AM

i dont know bout now.. but those prices are high compared to when i got mine.. and for those prices.. you could get a WS7II engine.. when i bought my VO1 motors new.. at my local hobby shop... it was 239 nib.. the first is the price suggested.. and the 2nd is the price the hobby shop puts on them..

Blaster

05-06-2004, 11:07 AM

The idea was just show tho the enthusiast that these engine can be found. It only worth the price if you are a colector or something. :D

For the same price you can pic recently developed engines... ;)

dgrobe2112

05-06-2004, 12:23 PM

i gotcha..

JoeRau

05-06-2004, 09:43 PM

Check out my Kanai and let me know what you guys think. www.geocities.com/nitroholic3

Little_Horn

05-07-2004, 11:17 AM

I have a somewhat technical question that you gurus might know the answer. ;)

Please se my post in the mp 7.5 sports section: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1427745#post1427745
thanks.

offroadcrazy01

05-07-2004, 08:33 PM

My rear throttle servo keeps stripping it's a great servo it's a futaba 9404 metal gear servo any ideals guys.This is the second time this has happen the first time it happen it was a hitec servo so I thought maybe it was just a bad servo but this time no way this servo cost big bucks

atm92484_3

05-07-2004, 08:42 PM

Check your end point settings and make sure the servo is not over stressing its self at the end of its throw.

jeroen

05-09-2004, 12:16 PM

Hi guys

I've been training all weekend,I'm hooked :D

I finally found myself a nice setup for the track.

The CMB raptor was doing a great job,but it ain't faster than an RB WS2.
I really like the power output,real smooth,easy too control,but lots of power also.
Will order the official CMB exhaust and header for it this week.

I broke my first part,after around 2 gallon

Lucky me had ordered a spare front steering set at ebay a few months ago.

Next week theres a 2 hour race,on a real dust/sand track :cool: