Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai I/II Forum

[OldskoolGT]

That's some serious carnage there. I am surprised none of the other front end pieces broke.

[jeroen]

The other platic pieces are still straight,but I found ou that the front unoversal isn't 100% straight any more,so I will have too order that 1.

The car didn't hit anything real hard,I think its just from a few other times it hit something and now it just broke down,after a small crash after a jump.

**** happens,will buy some spares on ebay this week,so I can keep on driving when other parts will break down after s crash orso.

[dgrobe2112]

spare parts on ebay.. the only way to go.. especially when you can get almost everything for the car for less than cost..

[jdavid2002]

most of my 7.5 is EBAY parts! LOL

[dgrobe2112]

right..

[uDi_MP75]

Nice buggy K-dude, i think you should chuck some blue fuel tube on though like you said lol. bet the v01 is killer with that head.

by the way, can one of you K2 guys tell me what the deal is with the shims on the front K2 universals? I bought my K2 used, and was just halfway through a rebuild.

The washers go on the universal before they go into the hub, so I guess it pushes the dogbone end further into the drivecup. Does anyone else have/use these? When I pulled it apart, one side had 4 shims and the other side had 2, I forget which side had what now so I was just thinking of putting 3 on each.

[OldskoolGT]

If you look carefully, you will probably see that the dogbone sticks farther into the drive cup on one side of the car. Add shims as necessary to prevent the universals from popping out of the outdrive.

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah thanks, did it. Don't think they'd pop out anyway, but the shims helped get rid of excess play.

What effect does it have to run the shocks in lower positions? I was thinking it might help me run a little more droop if I ran the shocks in the lower line of holes.

[KanaiDude]

You don't think the universals can pop out but they can and they will if not properly shimmed etc. Once mine popped out there was no feasable way to get it back in without yanking the upper arm off with a pair of plyers, I was able to run a few more laps to have it pop out again! The lower arm has a huge notch in it where the bone popped out cause it has to rip through some plastic to do it, these engine we're running are no joke and can rip apart anything that is not perfectly set up. I'm ordering some front unis for for the rear today I hear that is suposed to be the fix for it? will also add shims as needed, will not happen again, I would have won the damn race!

Just to give a quick update on the v01 it still hangs with any motor, I was against a WC21 and ws7 2 this weekend, and I tq'd 2 out of 3 heats and got them by a good 10 seconds each time, only to break down in the main because of the universal, while they were kangarooing the triples I was laying down faster lap times with shear consistency, it's a quick motor not super powerful but I still like it...

[dgrobe2112]

uDi.. here is what i found..

I find that changing the lower mounting location of the shocks comes in handy sometimes when you want to change the amount of negative suspension travel, but you don't feel like altering the length of the shock, or when you need the springs to be just a little stiffer or softer. Changing the top mounting location is a very subtle adjustment, I like to change it after all of the other, more important adjustments have been made, and the car is handling more or less the way I want it to. It's especially helpful to alter the 'feel' of the steering entering corners. Now I don't know if this applies when the springs' action is very progressive, but the more the shocks are stood up (less inclined), the more direct their action will be entering the corner. For instance: if the front shocks are close to vertical, and the rears are somewhat laid down, the car will have a lot of turn-in steering; it will be very responsive. If the rears are close to vertical ,and the fronts are more laid down, t he car won't have a lot of turn-in, but it will have more steering in the middle of the turn; it will 'square'. In some cases, the rear might actually begin to slide.

go to http://users.pandora.be/elvo/ it has a alot of great info

[dgrobe2112]

Lower Shock Mounting position

Bear in mind that changing the lower shock mounting location changes the lever arm of the shocks on the wheels.
So mounting the shocks more inward makes the suspension softer at the wheel, and mounting the shocks more towards the outside makes the suspension stiffer.
Front more inward More low-speed steering.
Usually makes the car very hard to drive.
Front more outward Makes the car very stable, but it has a lot less low-speed steering.
Rear more inward Makes the car soak up bumps a little better, and can make the car corner a bit faster.
Can be good for bumpy, low-grip tracks, but general stability is greatly reduced.
Rear more outward Feels very stable.The way to go for high-grip tracks

[dgrobe2112]

Upper Shock mounting position

More Inclined Has a more progressive, smoother feel.
More lateral grip.
Less Inclined
(More Vertical) More direct feel;
Less lateral grip. (side-bite)
generally a bit better for jumps and harsh landings.

Front more inclined than rear Steering feels very smooth.
A little more mid-corner steering.
Mounting the rear shocks very upright can result in the rear end sliding in the middle of the turn, especially in high-speed turns.
Rear more inclined than front Feels agressive turning in.
The car has a lot of side traction in the rear, and the turn radius isn't very tight.

[jdavid2002]

Nice buggy K-dude, i think you should chuck some blue fuel tube on though like you said lol. bet the v01 is killer with that head.

by the way, can one of you K2 guys tell me what the deal is with the shims on the front K2 universals? I bought my K2 used, and was just halfway through a rebuild.

The washers go on the universal before they go into the hub, so I guess it pushes the dogbone end further into the drivecup. Does anyone else have/use these? When I pulled it apart, one side had 4 shims and the other side had 2, I forget which side had what now so I was just thinking of putting 3 on each.

UDI...I bought front uni's for my 7.5 a while back and when I put them in, I used the shims that were already on the hubs. It's funny cause mine was 1 shim on the left and 2 on the right. I didn't want to mess with a good thing so I just left it that way for my uni's too. 3 shims on each side shouldn't be a problem, but watch that the shaft doesn't seat itself to far into the diff outdrives...that could cause unneccesary friction on the driveline.

[uDi_MP75]

Interesting, thanks man, that site seems pretty good. (still reading)

What I meant in my question though was, on the upper shock mounting positions (on the tower) would there be any benefit in using the lower row of holes since that'd make the shocks longer towards the bottom, letting me run as much droop as I can? (an alternative to finding longer shocks..)

Or am I just being dumb?

[uDi_MP75]

jdavid - yeah I played around, maybe my short upper links had something to do with it but I ended up running 2 shims either side, things would bind with any more than that. Slightly thicker shims on the right side.

[dgrobe2112]

I think the shims are so you dont get any wobble on the wheel.. when you put the 17mm hex on the universal.. to make sure its tight.. and dont have play in and out..
you are correct.. using the lower holes.. will of course give your car more down travel.. so you can use as much droop as you want.. or use the droop screws so you dont bottom out your shock when the suspension gets to full travel

[ryno1922]

Does anyone use the droop screws on the front and rear suspension arms, and if so what does it do. I have been running mine without so the suspension has full travel.
thanks
ryno

[dgrobe2112]

i use mine.. so i dont get too much travel.. travel down will pop the bones out.. and on the K3, we recently found out that uptravel will pop the bones out as well.. you can use them for a high bite smooth track.. so you dont get much travel.. and can actually lower the car with them..

[offroadcrazy01]

More
(less droop/downtravel) The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel) Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.http://users.pandora.be/elvo/bug/print.htm

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah okay.. so too much droop is not good either. So bumpy track = lots of droop to help soak everything up; not-so-bumpy track = less droop for better handling and quicker response.

cool

[DANNY WENZEL]

that sounds about right to me and lets you know that to much is to much.............
and not good .................................

[DANNY WENZEL]

ryno 1922 what what buggy are you running k1-k2-k3..................

[ryno1922]

Danny,
I am running the Kanai 2. I am a avid gas truck racer but am new to 1/8 scale. In the book it says to screw them out 1mm. Is this the norm to run. The tracks that I race on are pretty rough. Any advice.
Thanks
ryno

[OldskoolGT]

Ryno,

On a K2 I would try running full droop front and rear for a rough track.

[DANNY WENZEL]

Alright ryno1922.....OldskoolGT has it right i started with the screws at 1mm but right now the arms are at full down stroke ryno where are what state do you run in .....?
and what motor and pipe .................................................. .

[KanaiDude]

Hey ryno from tech talk?

[Marsh23]

hey guys, whats up?? Im going to be ordering my KE2 very soon. I have read threw here, and whats your guys opinon the TCD/LSD gears that come with it? I thought about swaping the rear for stock and leaving the front in. Im going to get the fioroni chassis and torque rods, and posable the turbo clutch. Im looking to get the WS7-II is that a good motor? dont mean to be a pain, but this is the best place to ask :D I'll upload pictures once i get it done :D

[OldskoolGT]

Definitely pick up an extra set of standard gears (or better yet, an entire diff assembly from ebay). The car can be dificult to drive with TCDs front and rear, and will push too much with TCDs front and center.

I would not spend the money on the Fioroni chassis. Chassis wear out pretty quick, so I wouldn't spend any more money there than you have to.

Enginewise, I would go with something like a RB S5 over the WS7II because low end power is more important on most tracks.

[Marsh23]

cool, thanks for the info, i will defently ditch the chassis , but im getting the rods and radio tray but that might be it with the Fioroni. Im getting the stock diff to replace the TCD in the rear, going to run TCD in front 5k in the center and 2k in the rear, this will be my first Kanai, i've had a stock 7.5 but got out of it to get my big car "95 eagle talon tsi awd" so now that i have it, im getting back into it. i have my Airtronics M8 with hitec 143oz servo and stock for throttle, and RB 063 pipe and manifold, and will be getting the WS7II. thanks again!

[jeroen]

I would go the WS7II too,as its a great and powerfull engine.

You have most of the good stuff already,thats a good thing.
The K2 is just a great buggy.

OldskoolGT,I thought the WS7II had more low end and the S5(long stroke) more top end.

[OldskoolGT]

The RB S5 and S7 are both square stroke engines which share a common design. The pistons and sleeves are interchangable on the engines as well.

I just heard Ultimate Hobbies has K2s for $469 in case anyone is needing to buy one.

[Marsh23]

OldskoolGT"

Where ya think im getting mine from ;) cant beat that with a stick unless you find place's giving them out for free :D but when i found it for that and that you can get a stock kit from tower for $479 and from ace for $449, you cant beat that, Will have pictures up when i get mine built. :D

[Blaster]

Marsh23 and Oldskool - I found on www.ultimatehobbies.com the K2 (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p464.html) for $674.95 :(

What is the URL of the Ultimate Hibbies store you refer to??

I also found www.ultimate-hobbies.net , and www.ultimaterchobbies.com which doesn't have the buggy...

[OldskoolGT]

Blaster,

It's the first URL that you mentioned. You have to call them on the phone to get the "real" price.

[Blaster]

OldskoolGT - Thanks!! Do you know if they make this special price to outside USA? I wanna contact them through e-mail instead of phone... :)

[Marsh23]

Yeah, it was on there site, but now you have to call about it. SHOULD be the same price, if not, ill get it from tower then. But I would call them, there kind of bizzy with emails, it took them a few days to get back to me, but i went and called them. Good Luck!!

[team_luigis]

guys, i need fast help please...

ok i have a regular mp7.5.
i bought it 2 years ago already build.so i dont remember were the pieces were on the original plastic..anyways thats not the point.

at the end of the building manual,there is a 1 page setting...
#2
were they teach you he caster angle
ok on my parts inside is writen a or b
like i dunno which part is 61 or 62 and 189 or 190
me, i need 189 and 190,but i cant see the diff between the 61 62 and 189 190,
cause its only writen a or b

so anyone of u can tell me which of them is a and b

thanks everyone

[uDi_MP75]

Look inside the blocks.... in the middle hole (or somewhere in the block) there will be a small letter written, either A or B. So look at the spare plastic blocks you have, if they say B inside them, then those are the ones you need to use.

And obviously, you can't mix and match, gotta use the A pair or the B pair.

[team_luigis]

thanx !! :D:D

[Marsh23]

KE2 Ordered!! Will have it sometime next week, Can't Wait! I will have pictures of it and during the build, i got my stock diffs the other day from Ace Hardware hobbies, and have a few extras coming as well. Once i get it built a friend of mine is going to let me see what the WS7-2 does in this thing before I make up my mind, im all ready leaning towards it any ways, but at least i get to see what it does. I'll keep you all posted!

[uDi_MP75]

My K2, for anyone that didn't see it in the nitro forum.

http://server5.uploadit.org/files/johnsmith82-inferno1.jpg

http://server5.uploadit.org/files/johnsmith82-inferno6.jpg

http://server5.uploadit.org/files/johnsmith82-inferno2.jpg

some more pics here:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162079&page=5&pp=25

Marsh23 - bet you'll love it. I got one LSD up front thats it, shoudln't cost much to pick up a set of spare regular gears off ebay to switch in later.

Someone post quickie advantages/disadvantages on track of an LSD up front? More on power steering? I forget. Thanks.

[Blaster]

Great looking buggy uDi! Looks sweet... Blue and polished aluminum with gun metal wheels. I liked the look! Do you mind if I "benchmark" it? LOL :rolleyes:

To those who didn't say my new buggy pics either on Nitro Forum, here they goes.

[jeroen]

Nice looking buggy's guys.

But aren't they abit too clean :p

[OldskoolGT]

My buggy has never been as Udi's buggy. Even when it was brand new it wasn't that clean.

An LSD gives better off power steering. The tradeoff is that on power steering will be reduced.

[Marsh23]

just got my tracking info from UH, and it will not be here untill 10/thursday :( all well a weekend build it will be i guess. Can't wait to I drop in that WS7-2 going to be sweet! :D

[dgrobe2112]

get you some 1.1 springs.. that motor will scream..

[Marsh23]

Kyosho Springs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNP8&P=ML) would these be it, or would the K-Factory #k8011-3 work too, Or what you have in mind? Im all for speed :D

[colinradford]

I had a set of K-Factory springs, they shattered (all three of them) halfway through the first race meeting I used them at. I haven't had much luck with K-Factory stuff, all seems pretty cheap and doesn't last long IMHO.

I would only buy Kyosho/Mugen springs now.

[dgrobe2112]

yes... those are them.. however.. those are 1.0.. if your gonna use the aluminum shoes.. 1.0's will be fine..

[jeroen]

I had a set of K-Factory springs, they shattered (all three of them) halfway through the first race meeting I used them at. I haven't had much luck with K-Factory stuff, all seems pretty cheap and doesn't last long IMHO.

I would only buy Kyosho/Mugen springs now.

Same story over here.
K Factory is garbage/cheap ass crap,especialy there clutch springs,they do not even last 0,1 gallon by me.

I did run 1.1 for a long time,but when the clutch is worn abit more 1.0 mm is better,maybe 1.0 is better all the time as 1.1 is making the clutch engage realy late in my opinion.

My clutch did wear out this weekend,and I was tired of putting those damn tight springs on.
So I was looking for something else/new,and I knew there was something like this for sale that does work good.

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/options/rmv/speed2/speed2.html

I will get mine this week,at the cost of $65.

I know the guy who wrote this article,I'm sure it will work great for me too,if not he can help me.

[KanaiDude]

uDi- very nice very nice very nice... So I am going to switch my clutch and engine to race this weekend. I'm putting my P5 back in, 1.1 springs and kyosho composite shoes not alluminum, that's a good setup right? just checking...

[dgrobe2112]

if you can get that clutch at 65 bux.. you cant go wrong.. i heard they were over 100 bux.. i seen one of those locally.. but the guy cant get it tuned right.. he is boggin really bad.. i havent seen anything that would make it worth it yet..

[dgrobe2112]

that is the same setup that my buddy runs on his P5.. but he has aluminum shoes.. lots of punch i heard.. dotn know much about aluminum shoes yet.. i got a set.. just havnet used them yet..

[OldskoolGT]

The P5s got plenty of low end puch. I would try 1.0 springs before the 1.1s and maybe cut 1-2mm off the tips of the clutch shoes if you want more low end punch.

[Marsh23]

cool, I'll just use the 1.0 springs that come with the kit, and I'll probley sell the alum ones that come with it. I have the carbon shoes, I do have a pair of the k-factory springs, i'll give them a shot, or i'll send them back. So the 1.1's delay the clutch from expanding? kind of new to this 3pc setup, use to run the 2-shoe ones. :confused:

[uDi_MP75]

Yep, the harder the spring the later the clutch engages (and therefore at higher engine rpms) so you get a harder hitting lowend.

I'd try the 1.0's first, and if you still want later engagement try the 1.1's.

[savageP3]

anyone here looking to sell or trade a buggy? im in the market

[-=ADA$=-]

does it have any flaws?? I currently ofna MBX R2, but i think i could manage to trade, or buy it ( or at least i could try) if so i would be without engine for some while, is it worth??

[C.J.OO]

Hey Does anyone have a fuel tank for a K2 or K3 for sale.?. I need one bad I would love to get my hands on three but One will do please Email me If you Do thanx..Clint..

[Marsh23]

would 1.0 springs work on the RB WS7-2 or should i get a set of 1.10's?? New to this breed of engine, thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

i personally run the 1.1's on my WS7II great bottom.. havent tried the 1.0's.. if you get the 1.0's.. you can try them.. see how they work.. and if you feel boggy on the bottom.. the go with the 1.1's.. or yu could get the 1.0's.. and clip the ends of them.. but i run the 1.1's.. and they are great..

[Marsh23]

i personally run the 1.1's on my WS7II great bottom.. havent tried the 1.0's.. if you get the 1.0's.. you can try them.. see how they work.. and if you feel boggy on the bottom.. the go with the 1.1's.. or yu could get the 1.0's.. and clip the ends of them.. but i run the 1.1's.. and they are great..


what do yo mean clip them? i have 2 sets of 1.0 springs, Im thinking of ordering the 1.1's.

[dgrobe2112]

you can actually cut the tip off of the spring to get more holding power.. but if you allready got 1.0's.. try the 1.1's and see what happens... i have never used the 1.0's..

[mdmaxx]

i use 1.0's in my ws72. i have a 063 pipe on my k2. it has more instant bottom end to me with the 1.0 springs. the 1.1's spool up then take's off.

[dgrobe2112]

i may have to try them then.. i currently got 1.1's.. just havent tried the 1.0's

[Marsh23]

Yeah, i just ordered the 1.10's and i have 1.00's , ill give the 1.00's a try first, then try the 1.10's

[dgrobe2112]

Let me know how they work for you??

[jason102276]

i just got a K2 and have started building it is there any tips i should know during assembly

im not new to 1/8th buggies but i am new to kyosho cars

so far i built the rear diff and assembled the rear case shock tower and universal

i shimed the diff with 1 thick washer and 1 thin washer and it feels like there is a slight amount of play between the pinion and diff gear it feels right when i compare it to how my mbx5 diff was but that car didint require any shimming

today the regular diff pieces i need to use 3 normal diffs should arrive and i should be able to get most of the rolling chassis done tonight or tommorrow

i was told for set-up use the kit instructions to set all linkages shock locations etc and 5k 7k 1k in the diffs and 70wt front and 40wt rear does that sound like a good set-up

i was also told to try the tcds front and rear with 7k center how would this set-up feel different than the above

cant wait to get this thing on the track

as for clutch for ws7 2 i plan to use the kit set-up what is it 1.0 and aluminum shoes right

im going to be using a ws7 2 w/odonnel head and the jammin pipe with the reinforced stinger

my old car was a mbx5 with a P5 and it had crazy bottom end power even when using a set of 0.9 springs and white mugen shoes thats why i chose a ws7 2 for the new car

it should be easier to maintain traction it was real tough on my trigger finger before unless the track was sealed blue groove it was too much bottom end

[offroadcrazy01]

check out these set up sheets www.nitrocross.com . The aluminim clutch shoe's wear out faster then the composite ones also alot less maintaince

[dgrobe2112]

composite shoes.. i tried the aluminum shoes.. and didnt like them.. on my WS7II. 70/40 is good to start with on shocks.. the TCD (LSD) diff.. should go in the front.. heard they work best on smooth tracks.. 5k,7k,1k is a good starting point.. i went back to 3/7/1.. for more steering.. with the 2 degree toe block in the rear..

[KanaiDude]

composite shoes as well, i run 60/40 shocks and 5/7/1 I tried a TCD up front and my car was a little twitchy on loamy tracks, I switched back to stock diffs and was much happier, 3/7/1 or 5/7/1 is the way to go try the TCD but make sure you try the stock diffs as well, run the TCD for a few races then swap them you will notice a big difference.

[dgrobe2112]

the TCD diff was really good entering the turns.. but wasnt really good out of the turns.. i havent really used it that much.. i got mine.. and it just sits in the box...

[jason102276]

i will be racing it for the first time this weekend

i heard rcscrews arent very good why?? and ive heard hexscrews.com has better ones any comments would be appreciated

[dgrobe2112]

i will be racing it for the first time this weekend

i heard rcscrews arent very good why?? and ive heard hexscrews.com has better ones any comments would be appreciated


a buddy of mine got a set from rcscrewz.. and they were fine.. no problems with them at all..

[KanaiDude]

I have 3 sets of screwz, 2 for my kanai and 1 for my Gt they are fine by me, you need quality hex drivers though, cheap ballhex drivers will not do.

[dgrobe2112]

Yeah.. good tools.

[Marsh23]

All done, got my motor today, installed, and starting the brake in. Yeah fun... To bad they did't come pre-broke in.... any ways here is a pic.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45564&stc=1

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45563&stc=1

[uDi_MP75]

jason - the reason for what you heard about hexscrews vs rcscrewz is simple.

rcscrewz uses stainless steel. While there is the advantage that they don't rust, the strength and surface hardness is a lot lower than regular steel.

So if you are notorious for stripping out screw heads and things, you are better off getting a set of black coated steel screws from hexscrews.com than the stainless ones from rcscrewz.

Obviously treat the stainless ones and they'll be fine (like said earlier), but the "real" steel ones will hold up better under use and abuse. And it's the truth, good hex drivers also make a world of difference.

[jeroen]

uDi mp75

I totaly agree with your on the screws,as I own both brands now myself.

Marsh23

Nice new/clean looking K2 you got there.
Breakin an engine always sucks,tho a CMB doesn't need an breakin :D

I should buy some alu chassis braces if I where you,they offer some nice once on ebay.

Good luck with the breakin and setup te car.

[Marsh23]

Marsh23

Nice new/clean looking K2 you got there.
Breakin an engine always sucks,tho a CMB doesn't need an breakin :D

I should buy some alu chassis braces if I where you,they offer some nice once on ebay.

Good luck with the breakin and setup te car.

Thanks, Its done, going to test is shortly at the track, get use to the layout, as for the alu chassis braces, grabbing a set of Option team in a week along with a few other goodies. As for it being clean, thats what it looks like after a weekend of the track.

[KyoshoKev]

Hi

can i ask whats the difference in the front end suspension from the mp7.5sports and the K2? i assume the steering of the K2 is better... what would i need to convert the sports to the k2 front?

If i was to buy a Kanai2 front suspension set... will it fit on my sports?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5907883117&rd=1


http://images.auctionworks.com/fullView.asp?img=http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/58/57696/front-susp-ass.jpg


what else would need?


p.s i already got the shocks, and i am thinking of getting the CNC shock tower from ebay.

thanks in advacne :cool:

[dgrobe2112]

there is no difference in the actual arms them selves.. however.. the hub carrier on a K2 are different than the sports.. hinge pins are better.. basically.. the front end differences on the K2 and sports.. is the steering.. K2 has ball bearing steering.. better shock towers.. better diffs.. better turnbuckles.. i think the knuckles are better.. better wheel hubs.. that is definitly a good price.. for that.. cuz the hub carriers are 20 bux by themselves.. and 10 bucks for the wheel hubs and nuts..

[dgrobe2112]

if i were you.. i would invest in a set of good shock towers.. and chassis braces for your buggy.. you will have no trouble getting the parts to mount to your buggy..

[KyoshoKev]

so if i buy that suspension set, will i need universals? i prefer dogbones... just due to the cost factor

yeah getting the CNC shock towers and CNC Chasis brace...

is the crown gear on the sports not the same as the crown gear on the K2? i.e is it made of different metal? my rear one has stripped. my front one is ok


also do you know if the crown gear from the ofna hyper7 will fit?

[dgrobe2112]

i dont know if the hyper 7 gear will fit or not.. they are made of different metal.. one is aluminum.. the K2 is hardened steel..

also.. i dont think you will need the universals.. but you can get universals on ebay for pretty cheap.. also.. i think the ofna universals will work on a Kyosho.. but check the length.. or the 9.5 universals..

[Marsh23]

Sup guys,

Need some suspention help. Its too springie, or bouncey, and it bottoms out. This is my first time running it on an off road track, use to run big ovals with the 7.5's. Now im running it on a semi tight track, it has 2 major jumps and some ripples. Im having truble with it bouncing around and it flys and noise dives in, my front bumper is caked with dirt :p , any ways, i had it setup with the 10mm spacers and 55wt shock oil all the way around, when i got home last night, i move my front shock towers to the holes the kanai used in his set up sheet. I have the 10mm spacer in the front, and 2mm spacer in the rear, and it bottoms out quicker now, i dont have to push on the buggy hard to get it to drop. My other problem is traction, I have none :eek: I dont know if its the WS7II or the tires (proline crime fighters M2) or what, The track is like a hard clay type. I also notice my back end was spining alot so im going to put 2000wt oil in the rear. I hope this make sence and some one can help, Thanks!

[OldskoolGT]

Which gear exactly is the "crown" gear? You can swap in entire Hyper 7 diff assemblies (along with the matching pinion gear). I tried sticking some leftover Hyper 7 gears in a Kyosho diff assembly, and it did not seem like it would work. Small differences in size made it feel too notchy.

[OldskoolGT]

Marsh,

Switch to 40 wt. oil in the rear shocks. That should help with the rear traction. Don't worry about the number of shock spacers in other's setups (it changes as the springs age). Just add enough to get the universal axel shafts level (a good starting point).

[dgrobe2112]

marsh.. as far as the front being caked with dirt.. im sure you know.. use the throttle to control the car in the air.. sounds like your riding too low.. there is no way to keep the car from bottoming out.. on big jumps.. i personally run 60 in the front 40 in the rear on the shock oils.. and i have my spacers set so the car sits level.. bones in front are level from a 6" drop.. that is the whole car.. drop from 6" and it should raise it self back level.. on front and back..

i dont know bout the complete rear ofna diffs fitting.. i thought there was a spacing issue.. with the diff gear and pinion gear.. i dont know..

i dont know why the car is bouncy.. unless your shocks are not filled all the way.. less oil.. means more bouncy.. or thinner oil.. more bouncy

[Marsh23]

Thanks dgrobe2112,OldskoolGT. I knew i could count on some one here, thats why i love these places, I will switch to 40wt i have 35, would that work? and i will set the car up like you said dgrobe2112, I should be good then, as for jumps, Keep on the gas, or back off a bit, I know what happens when you go from full to nothing, Cartwheels any one...... any ways thanks again, tomorow is race day, ill let you all know how i do, first time back in 2yrs, i hope i still have it :confused:

[KyoshoKev]

Which gear exactly is the "crown" gear? You can swap in entire Hyper 7 diff assemblies (along with the matching pinion gear). I tried sticking some leftover Hyper 7 gears in a Kyosho diff assembly, and it did not seem like it would work. Small differences in size made it feel too notchy.


oldskoolgt... the crown gear (or the large pinion) is the cover over the diff case and meshes to the small pinion gear


.. so r u saying that if i swap the pinion and the whole diff assembly then it will work?

or you saying that you swapped both and it wasnt good?


p.s how many shims you guys usign on the Fr/Rr Diffs? do you put one on each side of the diff? or all on the one side... my stock diff only had 1 shim in the crown side - to make the crown move closer towards the small pinion

thanks

[KyoshoKev]

on the shock issues ... i had brand new blue springs and K3 shocks and same setup at Y.Kanai's Uraguay 2002 setup sheet... and the rear would not pop back up when pushed down at all...

he has something like 5mm at the rear preload...

i had to go 10mm to get any rebound...


p.s i am now going to try some special shock pistons sold on ebay... the guy said that i only need 20 to 30wt oil... i can't find his link... but when i receive them i will report back.

[KyoshoKev]

p.s anyone know any place other than than that www.nitro??... place where i can get the pros' kyosho setupsheets

[dgrobe2112]

kyosho kev, those setups from the worlds are setup for smooth race tracks.. not like here in the states.. with jumps and stuff.. i dont know where else to get setup sheets other than on sgrid.. www.sgrid.com hard to read that site at first.. but once you get the hang of it.. its easy and the best site..

when running up to a jump... run hard up to it.. then let of as you are going up the face.. and use the throttle to control the car in the air.. blip.. or brake.. and so on..

[Marsh23]

Welp, ran ok for 1st on off road today, fighting push all day, did this did that, got better but still fighting to get the thing to turn. So talked to a few drivers, and found the problem. Any one want some TCD gears?? have 1/2 gallon on them??? Pm me for offers :D sence i was fighting that, i came in last :( but no biggy, i had fun and stayed out of every ones way, and let them race.

[dgrobe2112]

haha.. marsh.. i think you should keep the gears.. i got mine still.. just sit in my box.. but they work good on smoother tracks i heard.. so i take mine with me.. start with it in the first race... then change if i dont like it.. try running 3k standard in the front when you get another diff..

[KyoshoKev]

hey.. i was just servicing my car... took off the front knuckles.... then when i tried to put it back.. it wouldnt screw back in....the bottom thread in the knuckle stripped :( grrrr

is this sht common?

should i just get a longer screw now? or i will have to buy another knuckle?

also anyone know if hyper/ofan knuckle will fit? My LHS not stock kyosho parts ... only ofna. :o

thank

[KyoshoKev]

hi.. does anyone know if the IF139 22Deg hub will fit straight onto the RTR sports?

http://www.zonecentral.org/products/kyoshoparts/kyoshoparts.htm

i dont really see any difference in the steering other than that?

p.s does anyone know what the degree the RTR sports hub is..

sorry for all the sports questions in the K2 fred.

:D

[OldskoolGT]

The OFNA Hyper 7 steering knuckles will fit on the 7.5. Those things are really poorly made and strip easily so I would not use them unless nothing else is available.

The biggest cause of stripped knuckles is too much threadlock. What happens is a bunch of threadlock dries up in the steel bushing preventing the screw from moving up. So when you try taking the screw out, you end up stripping the threads on the knuckle.

From the pictures I see, it looks like the 7.5 Sports uses 17 degree FHC. So you will need the new upper arm (IFW137B) as well.

[OldskoolGT]

Marsh,

Are you running a TCD in the center diff? That will cause the most push of all.

[KyoshoKev]

just bought some K3 LSD diffs...

i see you have to put kyosho red or black oil... anyone know the product number for these oils? or does mugen make them?

i cant find on tower?


also is it fine to run these only on the front? and std diff on rear and center?

how long does the red oil last in the diff? i heard you have to service it after about a gallon of use.


thanks

[KyoshoKev]

ok i found this

ifw117-01
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_124&products_id=8372

and this

92201
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_124&products_id=8371


which should i get?

also i read some peple use 10/40 syntheic oil which is similar to the black oil... anyone done this?

thxs

[dgrobe2112]

use red in the front.. thats all i know.. heard the lsd isnt that great on bumpy tracks...

[Marsh23]

use red in the front.. thats all i know.. heard the lsd isnt that great on bumpy tracks...

bumpy and tight tracks, makes the buggy push into and out of the turns, cant turn like you can with std diffs. I had mine in the front, took them out yesterday and ordered std diff. will save them for a big track.. Good luck.

[OldskoolGT]

Don't use motor oil for TCD diffs. Use synthetic gear oil (the kind that goes into the axles of 1/1 cars). 75W-90 is supposed to be the same as the black oil. 75W-140 is supposed to be the same as the red oil. If sealed up properly, a TCD diff needs little maintenance, maybe change the oil every 5 gallons.

[7.5man]

KyoshoKev:

Oldschool is correct on the substitute synthetic oil weights to use. And the TCD/LSD diffs are very low maintanence (every 4-5 gallons of fuel). I run a LSD in the front on our track which is big, rough, rutted, loamy with large jumps. This gives the car great turn-in ability, which suits my driving style.

Using the LSD in the front and middle will cause a push generally on the car. LSD's in front and rear will make the car aggressive (some say twitchy). I would try all these combinations to find what you like for yourself and how it reacts on your track. You may not like it so you can go back to regular diffs all the way around if need be.

enjoy...... :)

[KyoshoKev]

thks for the info fellas..

i'l go out and buy myself some redline gear oil.. from memory they were around $15bux per litre

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?pvID=110&prodID=57&subcatID=18


cheers

[Fantom 15 gt]

Hello all,
About 2 months ago my cousin got a Kyosho 7.5 RTR buggy. He said it was a spur of the moment thing. He has had some trouble with it, glitching radio, braking parts and doesn’t know how to tune the engine (it has 5 tanks through it). He said that it lives in a box and he would never use it aging so he offered it to me for FREE! I said yes and that I would give him some money for it but he refused. It is completely stock with a couple of spare parts and all running gear, however something is broken in the clutch.

What parts are necessary to make it absolutely BULLET proof? What work would be required to it to handle the most powerful engine on the market now? Who makes HIGH quality hop-up parts? What is the difference between this model and the Kanai 3 model? Money is not an issue...

I am really excited and should get it this week. Links would be relay helpful also

What parts are compatible from the Kanai 2 and 3?
What plastic parts aren’t high quality? Is the kanai plastics made from higher quality plastic?
What type of battery pack will fit?
Where can I buy hop-up's from? They must be able to ship to Australia!

Thanks for your advice is advance!

[dgrobe2112]

please see the other forum.. i have answered it there..

[Fantom 15 gt]

Yep.

[Marsh23]

BACK FROM THE DEAD!!!!! .... :confused:

did us KE2 owners drop off the face of the earth when the 777 was launched?? any ways, what is a mp 7.5 worth now that its out? my friend is selling his with on os rg (p), has about 1 1/2 quarts of 20% trinity in it, has an ofna 063 one piece pipe, JR XS3 radio with a standard and a high torq servo, i bleve 85oz?? the buggy has kanai upgrades, tie rods, shocks, universals, rear and center. All the diffs have been redone, 3kF/7kC/2kR. Just thought id ask, he had it on ebay for buy it now for $500 and no takers :confused:

[KanaiDude]

I still have my k2 I just post in the 777 thread, price of the k2 is falling as I type, probablly would have sold for 400, but yea unless it's got a smokin new engine in it and fioroni upgrades they aint worth squat now, I'm thinking of making a truggy I've got enough spare parts and such.

[dgrobe2112]

dude.. i couldnt get 450 for mine.. with the full racers edge kit.. and a WS7II motor.. and enough spare parts to almost have a complete new buggy.. so.. i ended up sellin the roller with all that.. and parts.. and all that for 325. thats all i got for it. I almost wish i kept it...

[fasteddie9111]

hi, i am picking up a used kanai buggy, and i have tried searching and it is hard to get the answers i want, so i will just ask here. Anyways, i was wondering if there are parts from other brands that will fit this buggy. Also, what parts are most prone to breaking or wearing down relatively quickly? I was also wondering what kind of clutch to get, could i get an ofna one including an ofna clutchbell? thanks!

[Marsh23]

ive have owned 3 stock 7.5's and one KE2. and the only thing that i have broken is the clutch shoes, and thats not realy broke, just used. If your worried about parts, get extra set of upper and lower arms, and extra clutch shoes. As for clutch, 3 shoe's is best, 1.1/1.0 springs depending on your engine and track, rest is trial and error, good luck

My KE2 went for 300esh...
My WS7-2 went for 200esh

[fasteddie9111]

thanks for the reply. what parts are interchangeable from other buggy brands? Also, could i use the flywheel/clutch/clutchbell from another buggy? Also, the buggy i got was a used roller for $170 shipped, is this a good deal? thanks.

[dgrobe2112]

depends on the condition of the car... and what type of car.. but yes.. thats a good price for a roller..

Parts that interchange.. i heard some of the hotbodies parts work..Also Ofna Hyper 7 knuckles.. and front castor blocks work.

You can use the Ofna flywheel and all that.. but you can not use the ofna clutchbell. Also.. the ofna flywheel sticks out a little under the chassis.. so if you were to land your car wrong.. off a jump.. and bottom out.. the flywheel could hit the ground.. and kill the motor. You can go to tower hobbies.. they have a trinity clutch set.. for like 45 bux.. and comes with everything.. also you can get Kanai or 777 flywheel sets off ebay for pretty cheap also.

[dgrobe2112]

post any more questions you have.. or you can email me dgrobe2112@netzero.com for any help.. also.. if you want a good body for your car.. check out www.razorgrafix.com tell them Daniel Grobe sent you for a MP7.5 body.. they got good deal.. and great prices.. actually excellent prices.. tell them i sent you.. and you would be helping me out.. thanks

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG did you sell a brand new 7.5 to someone about 2 years ago, came with a JR servo, just curious after talking with you all this time I think I may have even bought that 7.5 from you way back just curiuos...

[dgrobe2112]

nah.. my 7.5 went overseas..

[fasteddie9111]

thanks a lot for the help, i really appreciate it.

[fasteddie9111]

i tried doing a few searches, but i wanted to hear your guy's opinions. I need to pick up an engine, and i am gonna go kinda low budget, so i am thinking either the ofna hyper .21 race, hyper .21 regular, and the ofna force .25. I hear that the force isnt that good, but i can get a better deal on them. At the end of my list is the mach .26 and xtm 24.7, but i doubt i will get those. Also, as for pipes, most 1/8 pipes generally look the same so do most pipes perform the same? i know that the high dollar pipes are better, but how about factory pipes? thanks!

[dgrobe2112]

ok.. depends on your budget.. the 8 port motor is good if it is clutched correctly.. use Kyosho 1.1 spring with a 3 shoe clutch. and the motor is good.. next.. pipe.. you should look into the sportwerks pipe.. they are 49 bux.. and it is a tuned 053 pipe.. for the price.. that is good.. also.. the OS .21 RG is not bad for the price..

[fasteddie9111]

what about those ofna or jammin pipes? thanks!

[jpsoph82]

A quick question, Can the Hot Bodies shock towers be used on the MP-7.5 and vice-versa?

[dgrobe2112]

uhh.. i wish i could help in the question jp.. i know alot of stuff works over.. like diff parts.. and universals..and stuff.. shock towers.. i dont know.. i would have to look into it.. why not just get Kanai shock towers.. or some towers off ebay.. for just as cheap

[NJRC]

Hi all, I am pretty new around here and just got a great deal on a roller from ebay and was wondering if you could help me identify what version MP7.5 that I have?
The seller did not have any discription as to what it was.

I am very new to Kyosho buggy as I was running truck and on road before I decided to buy my first Kyosho.

Any help identifying what version Inferno I have would be apprectiated as I just don't know if it is a bone base MP7.5 or a Kanai I or II or maybe even III

here are the photos that may help and tell me.....was it worth the $250 I got it for??

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1123.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1122.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1127.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1126.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1128.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1124.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

that is a Kanai 1 or kanai 2 buggy, i think you got a pretty good deal, looks to have some hardcore racing parts on it.. i think you got a pretty good deal, chassis looks brand new.. front castor blocks are not the stock ones.. uhh.. there werent many differences in the K1 and K2, but it looks like its in pretty good shape.. could use some cleaning.. but not much..

[atm92484_3]

Judging from the front shock tower, shocks, front suspension, and the brake rotos, its defiently a K1. For the condition its in and the parts on it, I'd say it was defiently worth $250.

JP, the towers will not fit the Lightning. I tried swapping some parts around when I had a Lightning and very few parts that weren't in the drivetrain were compatible.

[NJRC]

I did not know that the K1 came with universals all around. Someone mentioned that only the K2 came with unis all around and double disk brakes.

I am gonna eliminate the base MP7.5 kit off the list as from the pics on Kyosho's website show that the MP7.5 has gold color shock towers. I am also gonna eliminate it being a K3 as the chassis is not milled out.

Now for the shock shafts, after measuring with a mic they seem to be very close to 3.5mm shafts. Now my pics can be confusing as goes for the same as the pics onKyosho website since all the shocks look identical on all the models. My shock towers look more of the K2's towers. Also from the spare parts that was included in the bag of extras that was given to me, there were a set of 20 and 22 degree hub carriers that were never installed or were swapped at one time by the original owner.

[atm92484_3]

Try measuring the shocks again. Unless someone swapped the 3mm caps onto 3.5mm shocks or drilled out 3mm shock bodies, those are standard K1 shocks. Also if it were a K2, the front universals would have a small ridge machined into the center of the universal shaft to signify that its the longer K2/K3 front uni. The buggy would also more than likely have either 20 or 22 degree hubs with the stone guards instead of the unguarded 17 degree hubs that came on the 7.5 and K1 (however it is possible to use these "older" hubs and upper arms to reduce caster on the new buggies).

Its still hard to say what the previous owner did on the car, but the only part that I see that was strictly K2 and up is the center splash guard (however most standard 7.5/K1 owners immediately got one when they came out).

Lastly, I was mistaken about the front shock towers differing from the K1 and K2. I thought the mounting holes were drilled like those on the rear towers for the K2 towers (IE no spaces between the holes).

[NJRC]

well Iset my camera up for macro shooting to help signify some markings on the unis if that helps with identifying this buggy even further. Plus I also mentioned that there were spare parts that came with this buggy from the original owner so it's possible that the front 22 or 20 degree hubs were taken off for a reason the original owner wanted to do so.

Front wheel universal

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1130.jpg

Front Center universal

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1131.jpg

Front stone guard castor hubs

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1133.jpg

[dgrobe2112]

I am almost positive its a K2, and the 17 degree hubs give killer steering entering the turns.. but lack a little on exit.. so.. he may have went from 22, to 17, just to see the difference..

[NJRC]

well I got in contact with the previous owner but it seems he was not the "original" owner as he also got this buggy used so he wasn't sure what kanai version it was however he did mention that he swapped out the shocks that it came with when he himself bought it used and placed these shocks on the buggy to sell to me because the shocks that originally came from the original owner were bent and leaking as he did not want to give me bad shocks on this buggy.

[Quimmer]

seems like a very nice deal to me.. i'm expecting my 777 sp1 any minute and i still dont know what the diff between this one and the new k3 is... :(

[Tucker01]

Difference between MP-7.5 K3 and MP-777 SP-1

Just about everything, it's an whole new car. It uses the MP-7.5 diffs, front shocks, wing & wing stay, fuel tank, maybe a few other bits I forget.

[dgrobe2112]

quimmer.. there is big differences in the car, the new 777 is more planted, rear suspension has more travel, shocks are 4mm longer. the motor and center diff is moved more to the center of the car.. it is just a little lighter. Also, take yourMp7.5, and add about 100% more steering. This car is way ahead of the 7.5 in terms of handling, and suspension. you will love it compared to the 7.5

[1 Bad STi]

Fellas Fellas,

Just picked up a k2 for a great deal. Im looking forward to meeting you guys and sharing/picking up knowledge.

Me and my old man have been running Kyosho Buggies since the early nineties(Inferno DX, MP-5's, ST's) , I kinda went my seperate way and got into MT racing/bashing heavily and have decided to get back into the buggy scene.



Beginning Set-Up Will Be....
-Hitec 945mg Servo
-Hitech 925mg Servo
-Futaba 3pm
-Proline Crimefighters
-Kanai 3 tank (came w/ car)
-Kanai 3 upper arms (came w/ car)
-Crowdpleazer body
-Will be runnin a MGT Thunder Tiger Engine Temporarily... but would to grab an RB.
-Still deciding on a exhaust system. Suggestions?

best regards,
-STi

[atm92484_3]

Congrats. Nice score on the buggy. I have an XB8 now, but I'm still really torn to shelving my K2 since its been such a great car; very reliable not to mention extremely durable. In the 12+ gallons I've had on the chassis, the only part I've broken were a hand full of 3mm shock shafts before I updated to K2 specs and 1 lower suspension arm last summer (darn pipe :p).

For an exhaust, my personal reccomendation is to stay away from cheap pipes. I personally like the Novarossi line of pipes (type depends on engine and track), the O.S. t2050, or the Jammin pipes. The only downside to the Novarossis are the price and the pipes are easier to damage than the Jammin and O.S.

[KanaiDude]

I agree with atm on the pipe and congrats with the Kyosho I had the K2 and raced the Cr*p out of it, moved on to the 777 and love it. I have a Jammin hardcoated pipe on mine right now and it is so durable even the finish is lasting forever, I have a spare Novarossi just in case but the stingers are damaged so easily, RDlogics have some new pipes out just like the jammin ones with the super reinforced stingers. I had an OS pipe and was ok with it, I had the exhaust nipple (hehe) come loose and so did my friends. You should be able to pick up a jammin pipe for about 50 bucks and it will last a good long time. They make a lowend/midrange pipe and a midrange/highend pipe to suite your motor. Have fun!

[1 Bad STi]

thanks for info. I have ran an O.S. t2050 pipe before and loved it although they are pricey (worth every penny).

also do you guys know if the Crowd Pleazer Proline Body drops nicely onto the k2? thanks

[dgrobe2112]

only thing i dont like about the T2050, is the pressure nipple comes off on every one

[atm92484_3]

Trinity sells a machined 1 piece nipple for about $5 that has the same M3 thread as the pipe. :)

^ my cheap ass nipple fell off also :(

[KanaiDude]

Yes the proline crowd pleaseer body for the 7.5 series fits perfect, Ive painted quite a few of them. I also like the Trinity Wasp body, has some nice lines to it. You should check out ebay to you can find the kysosho body with stickers (7.99 at tower) for around 20 dollars.

[dgrobe2112]

or.. everyone you can go to www.razorgrafix.com and check out their bodies, he does great paint too.. his bodies right now are 10 bux, and they are a great fit, they have ofna, kyosho, mugen, xray, xxxnt, GT, 777 bodies also. and a great price also.. 10 bux. tell them i sent ya. i will post some pics soon of my bodies i got from them, they painted for me and everything. prolly tomorrow, or thursday

[ryno1922]

Can someone help me out with a Kanai 2 setup for KZ. I want to go to the race on sunday and I would like to have my buggy ready to go. Any help would be greatly appreceiated.
Thanks
Ryno

[rcabj]

would like some opinion b4 i decide...got a deal for a used kanai 1 edition + sh .21 engine complete with pipe + radios and servo ( low end ) + starter box for around 230 us dollar.

thanks...

[dgrobe2112]

i think 230 for a kanai RTR is an excellent deal. make sure its a kanai version.

[T/Losi]

I just bought a Kanai III and I am wondering if there is any tips out there for me or if anyone can tell me if any parts break easy.
Also, how often should you change your diff & shock fluids?

Cheers

[dgrobe2112]

the car is very tough.. dont break anything.. only time i broke anything, was i hit a fence on the side of the track.. and ripped the front hub off.. thats the only time.. get a set of arms for spares just in case..

i change my diffs out round 1nce a month

[T/Losi]

Front and Rear arms?

Cheers

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. you get a set of lower arms.. comes with both front and rear.. then get a set of upper arms.. get front and rear in a set..

[T/Losi]

You would happen to know the part no. at all?

Cheers

[1 Bad STi]

Hey fellas,

Im looking for a 13T and/or 14T CB if anyone has an extra one.

Also, do you guys know if the Metal Spur Gear in my car requires a hardened CB?

[chevy_94]

i am stuck between getting the sports rtr version and then fixing it up to k2 specs or just buy a k2. what would be better to do?

[dgrobe2112]

chevy.. read up a few post.. the K2 is better..

[T/Losi]

When you mean fixing it up, you man upgrading it to K2 specs?
Well what are your reasons for wanting the RTR, is it becuase it is built? is it becuase it is Ready to Go? is it becuase it has a pull start engine? is it becuase it is cheaper?
I have been told that the engine the comes with the RTR seems to run pretty hot.

Cheers

[atm92484_3]

If you want a K2, get a K2. In the long run, its cheaper to just get the car upfront rather than upgraded.

[1 Bad STi]

do you guys striclty run kyosho clutchbells on your cars.... is their any other brands that have correct gear mesh w/ the k2's? thanks

[KanaiDude]

1Bad I use strictly Kyosho bells, there pricey but they are bulletproof. K-factory sells vented clutch bells for the k-cars on towerhobbies.com but some people don't like that they are vented, lets dirt in there, and they are not as durable as the kyosho ones they Will strip faster under bad conditions.

[KanaiDude]

T/Losi, the rtr is a very subpar vehicle if you are considering racing, you will have to upgrade quite a few parts and will spend at least as much money upgrading (trust us RC is a money pit buy better from the begginning). I'm sure you can get a K2 for a good price these days, and then just buy a cheaper (but it will be much better then the rtr motor) engine like a OS RG or something similiar. At least then you can learn on a good vehicle and not want to go upgrade after your first day the track.

[chevy_94]

yeah i meant upgrading it to k2 specs. yeah i want the rtr (im not gonna go with the kit) cause its already built i don't really feel like building the kanai 2. and plus ill have much more money into one if i buy a kit. the only reason every says that engine runs hot is people are not tuning it right. cause a guy at the lhs sold one to a guy and he hasn't had a minutes trouble out of it. and team losi is out of the question. i don't care for them. yeah i know r/c is a money pit, bought a maxx this year and have prolly close to a grand in it.

[KanaiDude]

I didn't mean to sound like a jerk but just telling my experience with rc over the past years, i acuatlly got a confused after reading the thead and thought T/losi was wanting to buy the kit, i think everyone on here would try to talk you out of the rtr if possible, I Would chevy at least go to the rtr forum on here and read about what people have to say about it, that will help you make a better decision.

[chevy_94]

hey i have already read it and they make it out to be a peice of crap. but hey thats everyones opinion and opinions are like a$$holes everyone has one. but from what a guy was tellin me he said its a good rtr and he said with a lil work you can have it at least at a pro level buggy and i told him about the engine heating problem and he said thats not true just got to know how to tune and he said its a good engine. and he won't tell me a lie either.

[Little_Horn]

Chevy, I don't mean to be desrespectfull but, if you already made up your mind before posting, why did you even bother to ask?
Everybody gave you their honest opinions. In the RTR forum ppl say that it's better to buy a race ready kyosho (kit) instead of the RTR (so you say). If you plan to race in the future or use it in race like conditions, the RTR will not be enough. You will spent a ton of money just to upgrade it. Everybody says that it would be better to buy a K2 (or similar), and your answer to that is "opinions are like a$$holes"? That is very ungreatfull, to say the least!
You say on the RTR forum that you want to "shut" a guy up, that says that he can beat anything with his electric buggy (or something like that). You also say that money is not a problem (because you work). So, how can you beat a guy like that with your RTR?
You also say that a guy had the RTR engine for about 3 gallons and he swaped it for a better one. Let me guess... He changed the engine because it was so powerfull that he couldn't handle the performance... Isn't it? (<--- CAUTION!!! Contains sarcasm :D )
So, if money is not a problem, buy the RTR, the k2 (or K3) and the mp777 sp1, and the problem is solved! ;)
If you don't want ppls' opinions, don't ask. If you ask, please don't be so rude.

[dgrobe2112]

OK, you want to get a RTR because its allready built.. well.. i can understand that, however, to fix the parts on an RTR that break.. it will be a rebuild anyway. Diffs, to replace the aluminum ring gear when it messes up.. which it will.. gotta take the whole diff apart.. and might as well change the diff fluid while you got it out.

Center diff comes with a plastic spur gear.. you will have to take the whole center diff assembly out.. and will be a rebuild there too.. Shocks, very weak, and break.. will have to replace those.. by tearing the whole shock apart, and replacing the shock shaft. Shock towers, being weak.. will bend very easily.. gotta take alot of stuff apart to replace the shock tower..

I will tell you what everyone else has, the Kyosho RTR, is not a race ready vehicle, and takes alot to make it ready to race.. And i will tell you this.. Ofna makes a better RTR car.. however, the Kyosho Kit cars, are very race ready, and very good.. If you want an RTR, i honestly would suggest a Hyper7.

Why not get a kyosho K2 or K3 off ebay allready built...

[1 Bad STi]

Has anyone by chance ran this Clutch Kit Trinity Hard 3-Shoe Clutch Set MP-7.5 Feedback please?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSC0&P=7

my LHS has pretty good deals on em.

thanks

[chevy_94]

hey look little horn i had not made my mind up before posting but after i was thinkin the rtr would be better. and i didn't say ppl say its better to buy a race ready kyosho instead of rtr. and that guy with that buggy and its nitro by the way. i can beat him hopefully after i get that buggy where i want it. and i wasn't being rude either little horn. hey dgrobe that is part of r/cing stuff breaking so thats nothing new.

[atm92484_3]

My buddy got one; he said the stock springs were very soft. Other than that, it seemed okay for the price. Its hard to say if the K-Factory shoes are better than Kyosho composite shoes since the car hasn't seen a ton of track time with the clutch set up, but if its a good deal, why not go for it? Afterall the worst that happens is it sucks like K-Factory's hinge pins and wheel nuts for the 7.5 and you end up using Kyosho shoes and springs in the long run.

Chevy, if you want a K2, get a K2. I tried to do what you're going to do. I started with a regular 7.5. After a few months (and ~ $400), I had a K1. Then I broke down and decided I wanted a K2. Needless to say another $200 later, I had a K2. For what I spent to take a 7.5 to a K1 to a K2, instead of just getting a Kanai upfront, I could have gotten a pretty nice back up engine. My list of hop-ups also did not include the expensive hardened diff gears, spur gears, shock towers, or chassis; the price of those alone will probably put you over the price of the K2 kit upfront and you still will not have universals, a 3 shoe clutch kit, a front TCD, 3.5mm shocks, and upgraded shock towers of some sort. Plus with the money you won't be spending on hop-ups, you'll be able to spend on stuff that actually helps the cars performance like a good engine, exhaust, and a good set of servos along with a few sets of tires/rims and some spare parts.

[dgrobe2112]

well here is the deal chevy.. my friend did the same thing you are doing.. he has alot more money into his buggy than i do my brand new buggy.. and i got alot of hopups.. and a new buggy, anda new P5 engine.

Breaking is part of RC'ing.. yeah.. sorta.. but when you break every weekend.. it gets tough to get better.. and it gets tough to learn setup on the car.. see what does what.. when you are stuggling to get a finish out of the car.. much less a good victory or something..

The K-factory clutch is nice.. flywheel is light.. the springs are a little soft, the composite shoes are ok.. not as good as the Kyosho shoes.. but what do you expect for the price.. after you wear out those shoes.. you can get some alum shoes for it.. definitly get it..

[chevy_94]

dgrobe definetely get what? you said at he end of the post. but what i can get a k2 for i can get a k3 for less k2 on one site is like $570 and the k3 is like $510 on another site.

[Little_Horn]

Get the mp 777. It's the new model and it's cheaper.

[dgrobe2112]

i was sayin to get the Kfactory clutch kit to the previous guy.. i would get the 777 instead of a K2 like LH said.

[chevy_94]

is the mp777 compatible with all regular mp 7.5 and K2 and K3 hop ups and parts?

[dgrobe2112]

like.. what?? MP777 is its own car.. some things are.. like center diff brace, and steering knuckles.. but thats about it.. MP777 has its own line of hop ups..

[chevy_94]

is the mp777 any comparison race wise to the K2 or K3? and are the hop ups that are for the mp777 any good?

[KanaiDude]

The 777 is more refined then any previous K-car, there are plenty of hop-ups for it already, racers-edge, kingheadz, and fioroni, the standard 777 is probably also one of the cheapest, I think Kyosho is wanting people to make the switch to the 777 hence the low price tag, you can get one for less then 400 almost anywhere. It's a great car, that would be my suggestion, buy the 777 a decent radio and motor and you'll have one of the best setups out there bar none.

[dgrobe2112]

hop ups out there are very fine.. same type of hopups for the 777 as there is for the K2 or K3

[chevy_94]

yeah ya'll have talked me into getting a kit. now that i really look at getting rtr i want something already good and not in like a month to 3 months i don't want to be tearing it down and plus anything kyosho hop ups for mp 7.5 K2,K3 more than likely mp777my lhs will have cause in the past when the k2 was out not the K3 a whole huge wall was nothing but for K2 thats all they mess with and just a few lil other manufactures. but they have every single hop-up imaginable they said here and every thing down to the screw to hold the shock on the tower.

[performula]

Will Mad Force wheels and tires mount straight up to the Inferno?

[KanaiDude]

Not sure but I doubt it, you will probably need at least the offset adapters to cover the clearence of the extra wide tires. You may be able to find them on ebay, Holeshotengineering on ebay might sell you just the adapters if you ask, he sells full truggy conversion kits for the inferno series.

[Striker]

I'm looking for some setups for my K2. I went where I used to get them from, but they're not there anymore. Where can I find some setups? Thanks for any help.

[dgrobe2112]

on my K2, i ran the same setup everywhere.. and all i had to change was the tires.. and maybe the ride height..

Front
3k in the diff
60 oil
22degree hubs
inner hole on arms
arms just above level
-1 camber
1 toe out

Center
7k diff
46t spur gear

Rear
1k diff
40 oil
outer hole on hub
inner lower hole on shock tower
inner hole on arms
2 degree toe block
2 degree squat plate
lower hole in hub, where lower arm attaches
long wheelbase
spaced so it is level in rear

Blue springs, front and rear

[atm92484_3]

You might be ghetto when......

http://mitglied.lycos.de/greenmoose/davidcar.jpg




What the hell is wrong with people today?

On a positive note, my K2 and 7.5 are coming out of retirement. The 7.5 should be getting a JT truggy kit really soon. :)

[colinradford]

You might be ghetto when......

http://mitglied.lycos.de/greenmoose/davidcar.jpg

What the hell is wrong with people today?


That must weigh more than my fullsize car! Top speed 3mph even with a WS7 II.

[Mika]

JT conversion sounds great! Here's my not-yet-retired racing MP75; it's the original, not Kanai, but loaded with Racers Edge full option kit. Just recently painted a new body.

http://www.snrt.net/mp75_1.jpg

Here's my old race body below:

http://www.snrt.net/uudet/mp3.jpg

[atm92484_3]

Nice looking ride. I have to agree on the RE Pro kit; its great aside from the $400 price tag and the slight weight increase.

[dgrobe2112]

i dont think it is 400 bux.. go to www.kinetixrc.com and go to the contact page.. i think he can get the complete kit for you.. for cheaper

[Mika]

Nice looking ride. I have to agree on the RE Pro kit; its great aside from the $400 price tag and the slight weight increase.

Thanks. True. However, it seems that the weight is not an issue...as many excellent drivers don't have the lightest car necessarily.. modern engines seem to have enough horsepower for any car for any track would you agree..

[dgrobe2112]

I agree mika.. the weight difference between the stock parts, and the RE Pro parts.. is not that big of a deal.. also.. where people try to lose weight on the car is rotating mass.. like diff gears.. and less brake pads.. running dual brakes.. rather than quad brakes.. lighter chassis.. that sorta deal.. lighter is faster.. and flys better..

[Striker]

I need some help with a set up. I've always had problems with traction. Or, more to the point, putting the power to the tires, and not having them spin. The back end likes to walk out around turns as well. I have a K2, O.S. V-spec w/2050 pipe, 13t cb, 46t spur, fioroni turbo clutch, diff=5k front, tcd middle, 1k rear, crimefighters. For shocks I've got 50w in front, 35w in rear, blue springs. Ride height is front drive shafts level and rear a little below level. The track is hard, dry and bumpy.

To start with, I'll tell you what I've tried. I've had a 7k slandered diff in the middle, but changed it because the front tires just ballooned up and did not accelerate like it should. I've used a 14t clutch bell to help soften the power of the engine. Sort of works. I moved the front shocks to the outside most wholes on the shock tower. I also lessened the rear sway bar action. That's helped a little. I don't want to try cellblocks tires. They just don't last long enough for my budget.

What was suggested to me to try was a higher weight oil in the rear diff....?.... As I understand, the thicker the diff the less traction it gets. Is this right? I could see it helping on the strait, but it would hurt me in the corners....right?

I just want my K2 to put the power down like a MBX-5. Also, if you know of any web sight with K2 set ups, let me know. Any advice would help. Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

Have you tried having the clutch engauge earlier?

[Striker]

I'm only using two of the three springs on the fioroni turbo slider. Can I use just one?

[Striker]

Anyone?

[atm92484_3]

Try it and see what happens. You may want to try changing to a different style of shoe.

[always_opencarb]

how is this car? thanks

[dgrobe2112]

striker.. the most common setup that worked on my K3, was 3/7/1 diffs.. also.. try the inner most hole on the front tower.. with the lower shock mounted in the inside hole.. rear tower.. go to the lower set of holes.. and 2nd most from the inside on the tower.. and inner hole in the rear arm.. go to the 3 degree toe block in the rear.. 3 degree antisquat plate.. that should be the blue plate at the rear diff.. outter hole in the rear hub.. inner lower hole on the tower for the upper arm.. -2 camber all around.. 22 degree hubs.. in front.. try different tires.. what kinda track are you running on..

I also run 5/7/2 in the diff.. that really helped tame the rear down.. alot.. the 2k in the rear i think is the ticket..

Also.. i think the LSD in the center is what makes the car really loose.. cuz what happens with the LSD.. is.. it puts the power to the wheels with traction.. so.. when you get on the gas.. the car transfers the weight to the rear.. basically kinda taking the weight off the front.. the front wheels dont get as much traction as the rear.. so.. that in turn basically makes the car similar to a rear wheel drive car.. making the rear really loose.. or skaty feeling..

also.. run a little looser clutch.. too tight will make the wheels spin easily.. i dont know bout the fironi sliding clutch.. but i would run a softer spring.. to let the clutch engage earlier..

always opencarb.. the MP7.5 kit cars are great.. dont get the RTR.. it is junk.. you will be happy with it.. lot of different hopups available.. there is a newer version of the Kyosho.. the MP777 which is what i run.. my 7.5, never really had any troubles.. i had that car really dialed.. i was just lacking in the steering department.. seemed the 7.5 didnt turn that great.. but.. the new 777 has stupid steering.. gotta learn to drive it different than the 7.5

[dgrobe2112]

but to explain..

going to the 3 degree toe block.. will tame the rear down alot.. wont come around so hard on power.. the rest of the setup options i told ya.. were pretty standard setups that alot of people used.. try just making little changes.. but that i posted was my setup..

Shock oils.. was 60/40 front/rear.. put spacers.. so the front is above level at the dog bone.. and the rear is level..

[Sgt Blamo]

I was wandering what you guys think of this deal:
777 Kanai II, used in very good-excellent condition w/ the following: RB WS7,proffessionaly modified and broke in, with 1 gal run thru it, several AM parts inluding shock towers, CVD's etc. Hi-tech 945 steering servo, Futaba digital throttle servo, Crime Fighters w/95%, complete buggy, less radio & recvr. He's asking $500. I was thinking of offering $450. I
I presently have two Mayhem RTR's and was wanting something a liitle more aggressive.

[dgrobe2112]

Do you have pictures?? what kinda shape is the car in.. you said its a 777 kanai 2?? or is it a 7.5??

[Sgt Blamo]

Sorry, it's a 7.5 KII. No pictures as of yet. I will be test driving it in about a week, so I'll let you know what I decide. In the mean time, any advice would be greatly appriciated.

[Mika]

I heard 777 is much better. This seems to be common opinion. I like my regular 7.5 with RE options, although it lacks many of the goodies K2 version has. For mp75K2 I would consider Titanium shock towers and other parts from Hardcore. mp75 is easy to setup to have an average ride so I guess if you don't have much time to play with the car on track for a good setup I would propably choose 7.5 over 777. This is not based on experience though as I never had owned or ridden the 777.

[Sgt Blamo]

I do know that the current owner has made quite a few uprades, including the one you mentioned, as he was a pretty serious competitor ( he ownes the track I drive on and has a small hobby shop/trailer).

[dgrobe2112]

the 7.5 is still a great car.. lots of aftermarket following.. lots of setup help out there also..

[Mika]

Yeah, I want to believe that, too, since I've invested to the car quite a bit for the coming season 2005. Obviously we will see that later on during the season. There's gonna be plenty of 777's and XB8's against my older 7.5.

[dgrobe2112]

the 777, is very similar.. with updated front end.. and rear end geometry.. the 777 turns alot better than my 7.5 did..

[Mika]

Different enough to make a noticeable difference.. right

[dgrobe2112]

a ton of difference.. personally.. when i went from the MP7.5 to my MP777, i was disappointed.. cuz i didnt like the car.. was so twitchy.. and didnt feel right.. i almost scrapped it.. and went with the mugen.. but.. i held on to it.. tried different stuff.. and it is so much better now..

The MP7.5 turns with the rear of the car.. where alot of drivers of the car.. use the rear brake to get the car to start sliding.. then gas it.. to get the rear to come around..

Well, the MP777, try that.. and you will be into every pipe there is.. and then when you finally figure that part out.. your natural instinct is to gas it.. to get the rear to come around.. guess what.. doughnut.. right there..

Its more of a finesse car.. easy on the throttle.. easy on the steering input.. until.. you get a setup on the car.. when you get a setup you can drive.. then you can go back to pushing the car a little harder.. trying to get that extra speed.. the quicker lap.. but still have to be careful.. cuz the car will bite you..

I got the car setup right now.. where i can drive it pretty hard.. into and out of the corners.. kinda like my 7.5 was..

[Mr.Pink]

Where did all the Kanai guys go ? It is still a top contender on the tracks right ?

[Mika]

I guess you've already heard that 777 SP2 is on it's way... it's gonna be 4mm longer to be more like 7.5 plus some other small changes including new steering plate, longer center rear axle and lighter body I believe

I'm kinda happy I did not change yet to 777, 7.5 is still a good car

[Mr.Pink]

The Kanai2-3 is still a good car . Since 99% of people don't have the skill to take advantage of the improvements on the 777's . Its just like golfing . 99% of the people who use the equipment are not going to really notice the diff between last years driver and this years . Those 1% that can , are the pro's . It is a different story comparing stuff from 5-10yrs ago though .

[FranktheTank]

I came pretty close to picking up an 777 SP1, but instead I'm pulling my K2 out of mothballs.....as long as I can still get spares, I'll continue to run it :)

IMO, Kyosho's revising the 777 so soon after its release is not very reassuring :p

[FranktheTank]

Just ordered some Racer's Edge goodies and a sealed bearing set for my K2......time to start looking at that new O.S. motor :)

[dgrobe2112]

what all did you get for your buggy?? OS motor.. well.. the best one is the Vspec.. however. its a turbo motor.. im not a big fan of turbo plug engines.. for the price of the Vspec.. i would get a P5.. and save a few bux..

[FranktheTank]

I picked up the front shock tower and steering rack from Racer's Edge. I'm looking for the rest of their stuff, except for the steering and center braces and radio tray, on Ebay. I've got a V01B in there right now, and I'm not too fond of turbo motors either...but I really love that V01B, so I'm pretty much committed to staying with O.S. for the buggy :)

Other than that, I'm just gonna stock-up on spares (Ace Hobbies seems to have quite a few of them, and I just picked a new chassis up off Ebay) and green-spoked wheels......gotta have the green-spoked wheels...

[FranktheTank]

I never played around with the rear toe blocks on the car......does the front hingepin plate have to be swapped along with the rear blocks? For example, the 1* front plate can only be used with the 1* rear block, and so on? Or can the front plates and rear blocks be mixed?

[dgrobe2112]

frank.. no.. you dont have to swap the front with the rear..

[FranktheTank]

Thanks....I think I'll just pick up the Racer's Edge plate, since I can't figure out which of the three plates that Kyosho offers will give me the right amount of toe with each of the three Racer's Edge blocks.

[Mika]

Anybody knows where to get Ratzas carbon fiber parts for Mp7.5 ? At ratzas.net out of stock. Thanks

[FranktheTank]

What carbon parts are you looking for? A few of the parts on my car, like the servo post brace, radio tray, and center brace I'd also like in carbon fiber, but the only ones I've seen look kind of thin (I forget the manufacturer). So, I recently contacted BMI Racing to see if they could repro these parts :)

[Mika]

Looking for the same parts.

[FranktheTank]

Thought I'd bring this thread back up.....

Haven't received a response to the e-mail I sent BMI about graphite parts for our cars....guess I'm just gonna have to call them sometime this week.

Didn't originally mod this car at all....the only things I added were the Racer's Edge blue chassis braces before I put it up. Still waiting on a few parts for it...so far I've got:

-sealed bearing set (got 'em for only 20 bucks off E-bay so if they blow, it's no big loss)

-RE Ackerman plate, K3 upper and lower "b" block, toe blocks, and front and rear shock towers (for anyone purchasing the front tower with six holes per side, note that it's K3-specific; the upper arm mounts were moved slightly from K2 to K3, so you'll also have to buy a K3 upper "b" block. The K3's upper arms are also slightly shorter, so you may have to buy those as well)

-K3 lower and front upper arms (lowers are supposed to be clearanced for greater downtravel, besides the fact that those are seemingly the only ones anyone stocks now)

-1* and 3* rear toe plates

After I get the car together, I'll determine whether or not I need the longer rear shocks....only thing that bugs me at this point is that a few of the newer cars, like the X1, seem to have much more suspension travel in front...gonna have to see how much of an issue it is.

Still have to order a couple of bodies, RE front knuckles, some wheels, shock shafts, std. gearset for one diff, a spare bumper, and 20* hubs. I should also be getting the spare chassis I ordered anytime now.

Can't wait to get this thing back out!

[Mika]

Hey, if you get graphite parts please post here whatm where and when. Thanks!
I don't think suspension travel is a problem, with K3 shocks car works really well.

[FranktheTank]

Will do.....gonna call 'em this week :)

[FranktheTank]

Mika,

Just shot these guys an e-mail about carbon parts....

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/mp75.html

[Mika]

Wow that's interesting... I wonder the quality..any shots of the car these installed?

[FranktheTank]

Unfortunately, couldn't find any pics of their rc stuff.

According to their site, they do composite work for motorcycles and automobiles, among other things, so I'm betting they probably do pretty good work.

[Mika]

Ok, sounds even better. Part names are a bit funny, it's not a front brace but the steering plate ;-) Are you gonna order this stuff? I might consider, too. Ask them send a pic installed to you

[FranktheTank]

The prices look pretty reasonable, so if they're still producing these parts, I'm definitely gonna order them. Just waiting to hear back from them regarding shipping to the U.S. and pics of the actual parts.

[FranktheTank]

Just a couple of pics of my K2 before I take her apart....

http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=8&s=1
http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=6&s=1
http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=4&s=1
http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=2&s=1
http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=0&s=1

As is probably pretty obvious, I put this car on the track a couple of times, but never actually raced it. But since I've been out of school now for a couple of years, I've got a little more free time to spend with my full-size and rc cars :)

[FranktheTank]

A couple of when she was new....

http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=9&s=1
http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=11&s=1
http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=13&s=1

After her first time on the track....

http://smcpot.tripod.com/my_photo_album/index.album?i=15&s=1

:)

[dgrobe2112]

that company has good parts, i am looking for the website that carries their stuff.. cant seem to find it.. i had their parts on my 7.5 also.. their products are great quality

[Mika]

Allright, let's get some then..
Here's my Inferno 7.5 w/ RB C5 buggy engine
http://www.snrt.net/C5_mp75.jpg
Some carbon would propably be a nice add

[dgrobe2112]

those racers edge parts sure look good..

[FranktheTank]

Nice, Mika :)

[Mika]

And pretty fast, too, thanks. Not sure if this engine is better than WS7II (got both) but lately I've been learning to drive w/ this one.

Did also a new body yesterday, hope you don't mind posting few pics.

http://www.snrt.net/mp_wb_2.jpg

http://www.snrt.net/mp_wb_3.jpg

You can also see the bent cooling head of the C5 :-D

[dgrobe2112]

that paint job is pretty sweet.. nothing like an easy.. simple.. paint scheme.. but that one looks sharp..

[Mika]

thanks buddy .. yeah I thought I'd do something simple for a change and I have to say I like the result .. 2 cans of spray and some tape .. stickers do a lot of course

[FranktheTank]

Just heard back from Fibre-Lyte......they do still produce parts for the Inferno......gonna order them as soon as they get back to me with the shipping charge.

[invsible]

hey everyone i have a complete race package k3 for sell if anyone is looking for a great race package here it is....
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=197593

[FranktheTank]

Quick update.....

Got the bug torn down.....still waiting for a few parts, mostly spares, but a couple like the 1* kickup plate, I need so I can send some parts in to be hard-anodized.

Gonna order the carbon parts from Fibre-Lyte on Thursday.....the parts situation with Kyosho is pretty crazy, so I have no idea when my arms are gonna get here.

I'm even more anxious to get this car going now :-p

[FranktheTank]

Hey guys....just received the chassis I bought off Ebay, but it's nothing like my K2 chassis.

It's dark gray, doesn't have the area under the clutch bell stamped, and the edges along the front of the chassis are not radiused. I'm not even sure if it's 3mm.

Does anybody have any idea which Inferno this chassis might be for?

Edit: if you're buying anything from rcworldwide.com on ebay, make sure to ask for part numbers from this clown before ordering anything.....don't just go by the description provided! :)

[dgrobe2112]

what chassis is it that you bought?? got a pic or a link??

[FranktheTank]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5973740896&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

I can see the lack of a stamped area, the sharp edges at the front of the chassis, and the missing screw hole for the exhaust hanger mount now, but to be honest, I was just looking at the fact that it was an "OEM Kyosho Kanai chassis".....also, it's dark gray, and not the finish shown in the picture.

[dgrobe2112]

i can understand that.. and yes.. the ad does lead you to beleive that it is a genuine Kanai kyosho chassis.. from factory kyosho.. i can understand your frustration..

the non radius of the front of the chassis.. thats not that big a deal.. however.. the non stamp for the clutchbell is a major problem.. it shows that in the picture. no stamp.. i would asked about that..

if you are looking for a real trick chassis.. get the K3 chassis.. its milled out for light weight.. and all that..

[FranktheTank]

Aw, well.....only paid $15 bucks for it....I thought I'd scored!

Not having the original chassis in my hand for comparison, I'm wondering if this is even a Kyosho chassis. Can't recall ever having seen any 7.5's with a dark gray chassis....the coloring looks almost exactly like Mugen's dark gray anodize....

Wanna make sure this isn't, in fact, a Kanai or even a Kyosho chassis, before I do anything else.

Thanks, DG....and I'm guessing I should've picked up that K3 chassis on Ebay when it was available....

[dgrobe2112]

frank.. that does indeed look like a kyosho chassis.. its prolly just someones own version of the chassis.. i dont think its a mugen chassis.. i will have to look at a buddies chassis. the title calls it a mp7.5 chassis.. it may be a RTR chassis.. without actually seeing it.. i wouldnt be able to tell ya.. maybe been the original 7.5..

[FranktheTank]

Well, it's definitely not a Kanai chassis, at least....the motor mount holes are shifted backwards, and a couple of the radio tray/radio box holes don't line up, along with the other differences I noted. I'm thinking that this is probably for a regular 7.5.

[FranktheTank]

Update:

Got everything except the K3 arms.....should be coming from Dinball next week. In the meantime, I guess I'll just notch the K2's for added clearance in the rear.

Trying to get my parts hard-anodized locally, but it seems like no one wants to do it unless this is for a business. Sent requests to a few places out-of-state...still waiting to hear back from them.

Also, I gotta order the Fibre-Lyte stuff when I get paid next week.

[atm92484_3]

Woohoo!!! My 7.5's are back in action (well atleast one of them). I just got a JT truggy kit off of a buddy of mine. I'll get some pics once I get it done.