Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai I/II Forum

[merkel54]

I am in the process of selling two MP 6 and a MP 7.5 to buy a Kania, sure would like to get other Kania owners opinions.

[ 07-12-2001: Message edited by: Merkel54 ]

[ 07-12-2001: Message edited by: Merkel54 ]

[Administrator]

You just did! :D

[SteveP]

Merkel - what would you like to know?

[Merkel54]

Steve, Are these drivers using torsen centers or another type? Or stock? Right now most of my racing and practice is on a relativly flat hard packed dirt and grass. Any setup suggestions, diff silicone weight and so on. Unfortunatly there is no 1/8 scale track in my area, I have a 12 acre back yard so thats where my track is. There has got to be hundreds of people in my area in the same position, could you or anyone else out there tell me how to go about starting a club or just getting some guys together to help upgrade track and most importantly race with and swap ideas with? I know this kind of a long winded post but I have alot of ?'s. I live 45 miles straight west of Chicago in a town called St. Charles. Most of what I have learned has been from RCCA and this great forum right here, I wish I had discovered it long ago. Keep up the great work. Guy

[merkel54]

Hi Steve, I guess I would like to know if it would be worth selling out and then buying a Kania, or should I just hop up my buggy to a Kania? Is the chassis differant, I like the idea of the lsd diffs, but could I achieve the same thing with a torsen center diff? There's a 7.5 on the sell forum right now that is alot closer to the Kania than my buggy is, and it comes with the C4 RB. Any Opinion, Guy

[SteveP]

Merk - most of the team drivers are not using the expensive LSD diffs found in the K version. They're using standard diffs. Yes, the chassis is different, but only from the standpoint of the coating. The K chassis is hard anodized, which is a much more durable finish than the standard anodizing found on the standard buggy. The K buggy also comes with 4 disc brakes instead of two, but that's a simple upgrade. In all, I would suggest sticking with the standard buggy. If you have the coin and don't mind spending it, The K buggy is REALLY nice, but the bang for the buck certainly favors the standard car.

[marvinthemartian]

hey Merkel54
you already have a 7.5?? why don't you sell the two mp6's and upgrade your current ride? from what i see the few differences are chassis, bb steering, new engine mounts universals all around, double disk brakes, front tourque rod, and new diffs. with the money you get from your mp6's, you could upgrade and still have money left over. also, ace has some nice firioni parts for the 7.5 (like a chassis that is milled out, not punched out).

[Merkel54]

I have been toying with that Idea. Steve P said that the factory racers arnt using the lsd diffs there using stocks. I was thinking maybe just a torsen center diff. I allready have dual disc brakes and torsion bars so if the 2 MP 6 buggies sell first I think that's what I'll do. I was kind of looking forward to building another buggy though. I get aloat of enjoyment out of the mechanical side of this sport. Can you think of anything else I should do, I have sway bars but most of the time I dont use them because the longer arms make this buggy very stable as it is. Its hard to roll this buggy. (Of course I've manage it a couple of times :)) Guy

[Merkel54]

Nitro off roader,
By the way thanks for the interest, very helpfull in helping me make up my mind. Guy

[SteveP]

Merk - the factory guys aren't even using the center LSD or a Torsen. Just the standard bevel-gear diff.

[DarkWraith]

Wondering what everyone out there has been using... Did you use the TCD oil that came with the kit (and was there enough) or did you use silicone oil. I've had people say, "Use the silicone..." Others have said just the opposite... What weights, brands, additional hop-ups anyone out there using?

Thanks for the info in advance...

utadarkwraith@home.com

[StephenB]

Dark, use the oil specified for the TDC gears.

Also, please post your questions once in the appropriate thread...you've posted this question in nearly every forum, and I either moved or deleted them b/c you DID manage to find the correct thread in which to post your question.

In the future, please take the time to find the appropriate forum & thread in which to post your questions. It'll keep everything cleaner plus keep you from having to chase an answer down in 5 different places. Thanks.

[ 07-30-2001: Message edited by: StephenB ]

[makaluch]

StephenB, or SteveP, or anyone smarter than me,...wait thats too many people,... Anyway, what are the differences between Thorsen, TDC and standard beveled diffs? I haven't a clue except the Thorsen's "roll" mesh looks more durable, and they're expensive. :( :confused:

[ 07-30-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[makaluch]

DarkWraith-GREAT SITE!! Thanks for the info. :)

[DarkWraith]

Wondering what radio gear everyone is using... Was considering another Futaba, although I hear good things about the Airtronics... Any thoughts?

Same goes for an engine... Still looking to pick one out. Right now I am leaning towards and RB (or maybe a Picco). Anyone have any good or bad experiences?

Thanks in advance...

[merkel54]

I have both radios and I LOVE my M8 radio, but the JR XR3 is a great radio for the money. My buddy had a Futabo and he liked it alot. You really cant go wrong with any of these radios. I also have both of the motors you asked about. The RB has a huge head for efficant cooling and it runs very reliably, since I took it out of the box. The Nova Rossi I have BK model is also awesome lots of torque and a great sound with my RB pipe (By the way dont get anything else but the RB one piece pipe AWESOME) The only problem I have had with the Novva rossi was keeping it idleing, finnally I found a carb to manifold air leak after fixing that its great. Hope I have helped. Merk

[makaluch]

I use a JR XR3 and it's a GREAT radio for the buck. However, I use the Novak XXL FM receiver and top shelf Airtronics servos with a Trinity 1100 pack.My motor is a Picco G1Pro-BV and I'm pleased with it. Once tuned to run between 250 and 280, it's lethal. The power seems to be more in the mid to upper range, but I'm positive I'm not running the best pipe. I use the Ofna one-piece competition pipe.Hope I've been helpful. Happy racin'!! :D

[ 08-04-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]
By the way, I've heard of shavings in the cases of the Picco's. I went through and cleaned, lubed, and sealed mine before it's maiden voyage. Also the composite carb wears out. Be careful to open the throttle when adjusting the idle screw.

[ 08-04-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[merkel54]

Dr pass
I also use the XXL Novak with an M8 radio, really works great. I also have a JR XR3 that I might be selling in the near future, not sure yet. How do you like your G1 motor? What clutch gear are you using 13 or 14. If your using a 14 go to a 13 to get better punch out of the hole. What fuel do you use?

Merk

[NTRacinGuy87]

Hey all I have a Kania Edtion 7.5 and I love it (I'm only 14 years old). Ihave a O.S. powerplant, a Futaba 3PJS, and two metal gear servos. I've just started 1/8th scale and at first it intimidated me but now I'm actaully racing in the expert class after only 3 months of driving. Last Saturday was my first time in expert and I ended up in 2nd place,....wow...., I thought I really sucked lol. I hope to be posting in this forum very much now that I've actually found it lol.

cya,

Wes

[Merkel54]

ntracinguy, excelent, If we had listened to the experts we would still be driving RC10's My first RC vehicle of any kind was na MP6 Sport. They say that newbies should start out small because the 1/8th scales can be intimidating, I guess we showed them. At 14 years old I have to say well done!!!! It's those young weined on video games reflexes of yours that helped you to excel. Congrats on the second and keep it up!!! Merk

[makaluch]

[LIST]Merk - I've got the 13 on and it definately suits the track I run on. The G! is pretty impressive! I'm having typical Picco carb problems though. My low speed needle backed almost all the way out in one tank ! How do I avoid this ?? Otherwise the motor definately has more of a mid punch. I seem to track better than the OS Racing motor. Less bottom end but I pull through harder. I also must admit that I am not a Kyosho driver,..I'm a MBX XR guy. It's my first 1/8 and I'm very impressed. The KE wasn't out yet and I couldn't wait ![LIST]

[DarkWraith]

Typical Picco carb problems? With just that one engine you have? Or have you heard of that in general? Every day that goes by I decide what engine to get... Except its a different engine every day! I think I've narrowed it down to the Picco G1 ProBV or the RBWorlds S7 (or C4)...
I think... :confused:

[makaluch]

Dark - To be honest with you the carb problems that I call typical are actually with the .12 motors. Hard tuning mostly. The composite carb is new to me so I don't know what to expect from it. However, I CAN tell you that this motor was worth EVERY PENNY ! Obviously the C4 is superior, but perhaps overkill for most as well. I've heard raves about the S7 also. Bottom line is to find out which engine is easier or more practical to buy parts for and to repair in your area. Mail order is always there, but sometimes you just can't afford to pay shipping on a 15.00 part. Of course I will recommend the G1ProBV. The head cools well.Runs AWESOME at 250 Deg. Try the 8mm carb if you can. Cold plugs are golden too !

[Merkel54]

I think you will be happiest with worlds, I ran a Europa last year and it was perfect out of the box and hasent given me a bit of trouble. The C4 is a hell of a motor but you will have to set your radio to slow the throtle speed down if you have that feature on your radio. It is so powerfull that its hard to keep your buggy straight. Go with world S7. Thats my next power plant for sure.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Thanks Merkal and I have raced every class there is before i started the 1/8th scale class as it really intimidated me. also i do play lots of those vidoe games and really do think it help my dextarity. you guys should try it!

[NTRacinGuy87]

yay i just got back from the races and won the b main and got 5th in the a mian wooooohooo, last week none of the "hot rodders" were there they were at detroit and well they were here this week and i did pretty good i think. i listened to the vetrens and that added a sec. to my lap times.... lesson learned always listen to fellow racers... well thats all so post on...

Wes

[makaluch]

So what kind of advice were they giving you? Line choices or setup ? Or other. I'm very interested in getting all the advice I can.

[DarkWraith]

Officially at the rolling chassis stage... Just mounted the center gearbox and I'm sure I'll be done with the steering here within a couple days. (Taking my time... Trying to get my $'s worth ;) )

Gonna go with the RB Worlds engine methinks; from NationalRC. They have some kick ass prices. (Also where I got the car)

I'll get my pics up as well as soon as she's all done.

[StephenB]

LOL Dark..."getting your $$'s worth" means RACING THE WHEELS off of it :p :)

[Squiddo]

I think I gotta agree with DarkWraith...
Being a Mechanical Engineer...
My fun comes from BUILDING the cars!
Driving them is just an added bonus! :p

[ 08-13-2001: Message edited by: Squiddo ]

[NTRacinGuy87]

They were tellin me how to enter a certain turn and when to brake and turning ur wheel in the air to spin around right when you land... and most of all to not go spastic when you crash...lol ;)

[NTRacinGuy87]

http://www.dirtburners.org/images/merrivelle_fleet01.html Heres my cars..

[divve]

(just found this thread that's why I'm answering a Q from a while ago)

The type of diffs you use depend on the track conditions. Drivers will use anything from the standard, LSD, to Torsen diffs if that suits them.

Regarding engines, basically anything manufactured by Novarossi is good. However, unless you have a large track with lots of grip stay away from the high HP long-strokes. OS Engines is pretty okay as well.

For necessary improvements to the Kanai kit, I suggest the Fioroni torque rods and steering knuckles. Kyosho also has a couple of items on the way which will improve the car further. For instance stronger turn buckles with the fronts being longer on one side for better holding in the a-arm, 7075 rear tower, longer shocks or just or longer 3.5mm shafts (not sure which yet), and new brake disks.

[chrisXXXT]

While people I did it last night ;) I won a bid on ebay a Kanai Edition with a Onfa Picco 01 all ready to run I don't need a thang. I would like to find out about this car like what to check and setting up to run and the diffs. And where can I find info about it I have a lot of magazines but nothing in them is there a good web site to go to
Thanks for you help

[NTRacinGuy87]

I bought foroni torgue rods becuase the stock ones on the kania were starting to get really loose. has this happened to anyone else????????

[makaluch]

check out www.twf8.ws (http://www.twf8.ws)

[kyosho]

Can you guys give me the setup for the kani 7.5?

[DarkWraith]

After much reading... And many questions asked here, the LHS and the local track... I decided to use everything the actual kit recomended... The supplied diff oils... and shock springs... as well as the other items found on Kanai's setup sheet that came with the car. I am using in the 400ish range for shock oil in the front and 300ish in the rear.

I figure if he kicked butt with it... I am sure it would be a great starting point for me (a.k.a. Joe average racer)

As always... my 2 cents worth...

[makaluch]

Hey guys ! There's a thread in the nitro section MBX-XR Works vs. 7.5 Kanai Edition. If there are any of you guys that have actually driven both, I am interested in knowing the differences. I understand the motors and servos make a HUGE difference, but the overall feel of the chassis is what I'm talking about. Thanks guys !

[chrisXXXT]

Hi all I just got my Kania mp 7.5 I won it on ebay I got a lot of parts and oil for the deffs. I am going to rebuild it and the instruction manual that came with it does not tell you much. I would like to find out about the greas that is on the bevel gear and about the oil for the deffs like what type. Hope yall can help Thanks

[DarkWraith]

Which pipe are you guys using? From here: RB Pipe Specs (http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/pipe_manifolds/)

I was going to use the #86P version for obvious reasons... I see in the July RCCA issue with the 7.5 review they call out that they used the #63P, but the pic shows the #9901 version... Hmm...

Just wundrin! Thanks...

[ 09-01-2001: Message edited by: DarkWraith ]

[makaluch]

DarkWraith - So what engine did you go with the RB or the Picco ? Also, what do you thing of the 7.5? Is yours a Kanai? What about the diffs,..are the TSD's pushing?I'm asking all of these questions because I'm thinking of coming to the dark side ;) I am a Mugen XR owner and have noticed the short chassis effect. It's nervous at speed and loose in the rear. I think the back end is partly because of the lower gear ratio in the XR's. Anyway,...I'm looking into the 7.5 Standard or Kanai.I can save money just upgrading all but the diffs. I heard they're not great.By the way, where the heck do people get Fioroni parts from? :) Mark

[DarkWraith]

Umm... Sorta feel like I am doing the two-minute drill on ESPN... HERE I GO! :D

Mine is a Kanai, although I am not done with it as of yet so I can't answer the pushing question yet. (taking my time, and coming up with the rest of the ching; latter more than previous)

GOING to get the Worlds S7 simply because I have read more good things about it than the Picco. Nothing more and nothing less. I know they would both be fine engines, just going with the three weeks of reading I have done.

As for the Kanai diffs... Some of the guys at the track have your standard 7.5's and they are pretty damn good drivers, so if the Kanai is better, I can't wait to see. What have you heard bad about the diffs? My friend the other day commented on the fact that they did indeed "feel" different than he expected. (Chassis all done; just gotta radio gear and engine it)

As for the other upgrades, that is why I got the Kanai (as well as the diffs obviously). I figured in the end, I would save some money for sure. I'm a hop-up freak!!! :eek: I admit it.

And last but not least, the Fiorini parts... I'll be in Italy in three weeks; I could pick some stuff up for ya... :D

NuovaFaor (http://www.nuovafaor.it/)

Or you could look here : NationalRC (http://www.nationalrc.com)

I am making the assumption that the Fiorini is referred to in Italy as Frizioni. If I am wrong, disregard the above and I lose the two-minute drill!!!

[DarkWraith]

Really? I'll take your word for it... You Italian? (How ya doin... how ya doin) :D

Not sure why they have all kinds of stuff under that tab then... Darn... Don't make it to the next round.

[divve]

It's still under construction, but you can find some of their old stuff there.
http://www.fioroni.com

Under the frizioni section of the Nuova Faor site you also see clutches.

BTW, if you like to see some of the current Fioroni stuff for the 7.5 check this out: http://207.155.255.84/rc/MP-7.5/

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: divve ]

[divve]

Frizioni means clutches in Italian.

[DarkWraith]

Nice pics Divve... Good find...

[makaluch]

Well guys, I'm in the doghouse now ! I picked up a Kanai. I always wanted to compare the XR Works to the Kanai ! I'll have to give one up soon though. My wife's refusing to cook now ! LOL.So I'm wondering about those TSD's. Do they really push? Is there anything I need to know before I take the maiden voyage? My motor's already broken in, but I'll take it easy on the new drivetrain for a few tanks and then give it the 'ole once over. Already lookin into the JT stuff.Any setup info?

[baileym]

They will push under power, because they are supposed to. They are just like a Torsen. They lock up under power. You have to adjust your driving style to make up for them. Once you learn to drive with them you will be faster at some tracks, but the normal diffs are still better on a lot of other tracks.

[makaluch]

Can you run just the front TSD and stock center and rear? Will it still push? Are the standard diffs bulletproof, or is there a weakness in them? What oils in the standard setup, and also with one TSD up front ?

[makaluch]

How much money do the standard diffs cost? Are they worth buying? Or is learning how to adjust to the TSD's the thing to do?

[NTRacinGuy87]

This forum is dying...

[DarkWraith]

It's not quite dead yet...

I'll actually be buying my engine and radio gear for my Kanai this week, as I know have the money after cancelling my trip to Italy. (Obviously in light of current events...)

I am sure that once I get her around the block a few times, I'll be here asking for advice. The Mirage paint job, custom decals and screen-mesh windows turned out pretty trick. If nothing else, she'll look pretty!

[poipoundah]

Hey dude!! how about some pics of your car? Or anybody elses?? :D :D :D

[makaluch]

Any setup tips for a tight loamy track ? A good tire choice ? Any upgrades that REALLY make a difference ? C'mon guys. I'm kinda new to 1/8 scale and I'm tryin to get somethin goin, but my questions are limited cuz my driving isn't the best yet. I'm just now feeling changes in my setup (on the Mugen XR). I'm crossing over to Kyosho because I drove one and it feels SSSOOOO stable compared to the Mugens. With a solid setup and some good lines I think I can pick up the pace alot faster. My Kanai is on the way so I'm getting jumpy. Thanks

[DarkWraith]

Here are some pics of my completed Kanai... The Worlds S7 showed up just yesterday and I got everything all squared away today. No gas (can you believe it) or I would have started the break-in today.... Most likely tomorrow. For two other pics, see the Duplicolor Mirage Forum under Bodies and Detailing Forum.

[DarkWraith]

One more view for the masses!

[Eternal RC]

Dark Wraith, your buggy looks very NICE!:D

[DarkWraith]

Well...... Started breakin her in tonight. The S7 was TIGHT at first... Got stuck several (many) times and chewed up my starter wheel a bit (but not too too bad). Once she started though, she idled fine through the first tank, and I ran it around for the next two tanks lightly, turning in the high end just a hair each time. By the end, she was up to about 160 (50 or so outside). I'll probably continue this tomorrow or Friday... All in all, all is well so far! :D

[Eternal RC]

DarkWraith, Do you have action pic of your r/c car?:cool:

[DarkWraith]

Soon my friend...... Very soon! :D Nasty day yesterday in Western PA. Gonna continue the break-in today... Otherwise, we always have the camcorder up at our track just in case we do anything "newsworthy!" I'll get something up as soon as I can.

[machinehead]

So is the Kanai worth the money? I have been told that the regular 7.5 diffs are better suited for tight tracks and that if I got the Kanai I should get a set of regular diffs to go with it. Would you guys agree?

[makaluch]

I can't feel any disadvantage on our local track. Our track is pretty tight with a coupla 180 deg turns. I've heard the same thing about the mild "push". I just changed my driving style a tad and things are just fine ! Just look for the smooth line,...turn in a little earlier and roll into turns. The TCD diffs power out REALLY good if you find a good line in !

Any setup tips, or is the Kanai setup right on (handling-wise). The camber seems kinda shallow for my track and the 2 deg anti-squat also seems a little off towards the end of the day at our track. I think the Fioroni upgrades might help to shave time on the mid-day tweakin'. Any tips or input on changes and results would help all ! Thanks guys ! This forum's got some good stuff goin on ! Lata.:) Mark Miranda, aka DrPassNSmile,...now makaluch

[maxxxracer]

hey steve you seem to know alot about these. It isnt a 7.5 but it is a 6. Do you have any suggestions on what diff fluid to get for my 6. I will be racing at the local track. Which is tight packed and fairly tight with a big strait and to big turns and a tight middle section. Thanks

[DarkWraith]

Maxx -

The going average for what peepz are using in the diffs is about 5000 for the center, 3000 for the rear and 1000 for the front... Give or take. This will get you in the ballpark for most tracks most anywhere most of the time... BUT NOT ALWAYS.

Good luck....

[gixxer]

Does anybody knows if the regular 7.5 uses the same diff as the original inferno (1990)? I'm just curious if the internal parts is swapable?

[makaluch]

I don't know much about previous versions, you'll have to wait on someone who knows.

I just picked up a coupla chassis and a few sets of towers from Fioroni. I also bought a whole set of Hardcore stuff. I'm super impressed with the look and the lightness of the Fioroni stuff, but I'm wondering about it's strength. The stock and the Hardcore stuff have a little more weight (HCR is 3.1mm !!!) but they seem to be tougher. Is there any input on these hop-ups ???

Also, is the stock, plastic, center diff mount tough enough ? Should I invest in the Fioroni decomposable mount ?

Oh,...one more question,...lol...I'm having a hard time getting the stock TCD diff fluid. So, is there an alternative that's really safe ? I have other stuff in the front and center. I was advised by a reputable source. I was told he's Kyosho's team manager, but I'm not really sure. Anyway,...Any word on this ???

[DarkWraith]

Mak -

Tower sells the TCD gear oil if your looking for it... I love the look of the Fiorini lower suspension arms for the 7.5... Did you get them? They look awesome... Im thinking about gettting them.


BTW -

The wing and the wheels are from tower hobbies........... they aren't with the other like wheels and wings tho.........
gotta look around for them....... (sneaky eh?) here are part numbers:
wheels: LXVD07
spoiler: LXVL93
use search on tower to find them........ i really like them.......... get lots o looks at the track.........

Thought I'd sent you an icq with this info... Sorry took so long...

:D

[DarkWraith]

Gixxer.............

NO IDEA....... :)

Good question for the general masses on the Nitro forum...

[StephenB]

Gixxer, the internals are not swappable at all. The new 7.5 gear diffs are much MUCH smaller and use new "innards." ;)

For setup, a very common all-around setup is 5k front, 7k or 10k center, and 1k in the back. I've found 5, 7, 1 to be the best for our local track. High bite tracks call for thicker oil, while loose tracks are opposite.

[machinehead]

I have to tell you all, I finally broke down and bought the Kania and my 1st impression... this car rocks. I have been driving a Ofna WorldsII for the last 8 months and there is no comparison. This car i just point give it some gas and away we go! Out of corners this thing pulls like crazy. I hear the new Ofna's are better than the old ones but I will take this car any day.

[maxxxracer]

Thanks for the vote of confinence with the KE. It helps to think that I am spending good money on it.

[makaluch]

I just figured this out so I'm like a kid now:

Okay the file's too big so at the risk of feeling even stupider, hehehe, I'll try it this wayhttp://www.home.earthlink.net/~btmam/_uimages/KanaiNose.JPG

[maxxxracer]

I had to got to the directory to see the pic but if found it. ( http://www.home.earthlink.net/~btmam/_uimages/ ) What is it that you want me to see?

[makaluch]

Well, the Kanai,...I guess. I'm trying to figure this thing out.

So, how'd you do that? Did you use the link ? I thought that directory wasn't public so I gave up. That's the directory for the pics I have on my cheesy web page that comes free with my ISP.

I can't edit or delete any posts for some reason either, so I just take up a bunch of space trying it out. And look silly too !!!LOL

Well, there's where to see some pics of my 1/8 scales. The Kanai's at our local track.

[maxxxracer]

umm, the directory isnt public. I just know how to work the system (the net). What I did was just hack off the title for the pic (????.jpg) and vuala i got the directory. It is not very hard to do.

[Xtremery]

Hey everyone, I just ordered my Kanai 7.5. Its actually my first car lol... I always start at the top. I got an OS .21 RZ V-99 engine, and Aitronics M8 remote to go with it, is there anything I should really be aware of when Im assembling it? I bet its a blast to drive.
I just really wanted to say hi to everyone and to introduce myself!
-Ryan:) :) :)

[DarkWraith]

All in all the kit went together nearly perfect. There were only a couple things that were a little "difficult." I have them in my notes at home and I'll post more detail later, but as I recall they were with some of the pins not fitting thru the "balls" they went thru and using the wrong screws for the sway bars... WELCOME. I trust you'll be as pleased with your car as I am with mine...

[makaluch]

I bought the optional longer steering link because I heard there was a strength problem with the stock set. Any advice or things to know about installation ? Which side gets the longer rod ?? Etc.,,,

[gixxer]

Thanks for the info. Actually i just bought the mp6 today since it's like $296 shipped :D. Where is the mp6 forums?

Does anybody know if the 7.5 sport comes with the steel diff gear or the cheapo.. The pricing isn't much different than the regular mp7.5 which seems odd.

[Xtremery]

actually if u go to the Kyosho website go to the MP 7.5 and u can get a print out of the whole parts listing, just compaire the part # and see what parts are the same or different.

[makaluch]

I heard something about the optional longer steering turnbuckles or something. Does anyone have any info on this subject ? I noticed (in Towers list under the Kanai of what others are buying with the kit) that the optional steering stuff was there. It looks like it's actually from the Mantis. What's the deal with this ? Hmmm ?

[fasRC]

I bought the car. Looks great.

I have a question. Is the Hitec 615 mg servo pretty good for this car??? And do i need two good servos for this car or only one for the steering?

Thanks.

By the way, the car is the Kyosho MP 7.5 Kenai.

[DarkWraith]

I use a high speed/high torque Futaba 9402 for steering and a simple, run of the mill, Futaba 3004 for throttle... I have had no problems. I am not that familiar with that servo from Hitec, but if it is for steering, you want no less that 100 inoz of torque... High speed is also a plus... These are ok for throttle too, but not as important... IMO.

[fasRC]

Thanks for the Reply DW.

The hitec has 110oz and .23/sec on a 4.8 volts.
I am running 6 volts.

I guess that should be suffcient.

[fasRC]

do u guys know if the steering is supposed to be tight?

When the servo is not connected and i move it with my hand, there is resistence.

I don't think that shoud be the case....If i am correct, could someone tell me how to loosen it up?

Thanks.

[DarkWraith]

nah......... very little resistance.... mine is smooth as ice...

lemme get my car........ <pause>

hmm.... make sure nothing is overtightened and interfering... (although everything botoms out so it can't be overtightened...)

dunno... go piece by piece, even if you have to dismantle and see where it is binding...

servo saver cranked up?

good luck... let us know what it is...

[fasRC]

DW,

Thanks for ur input, But i figured it out.

The right knuckle was binding, i was able to loosen it some but it still is kinda tight. i will try to completely take it apart and see if everything is ok in there.

[makaluch]

Also check if you used too much loctite. It'll bind the knuckle at the kingpin pivot...be careful loosening the kingpin,...you're asking for trouble if it's TOO loose.

[fasRC]

Thanks mac,

it was the loctite!

[fasRC]

When Kyosho comes out with a new model, do they offer an upgrade kit also?

For example, was there and upgrade kit for the MP 6 to MP 7.5, or the only path was to buy all the individual parts seporatly?

Just curious....Thanks.:)

[purplerides]

fasrc - it depends on whether the new vehicles has many design changes or just several improvements on the old vehicle , there was a upgrade kit for the MP-5 to MP-6 , both vehicles shared many parts , the MP-7.5 is totally new therefore no upgrade kit , basically the upgrade kit from a MP-6 to 7.5 would be a 7.5 kit minus the wing and some screws...LOL

the 7.5 is a great buggy and handles much better then the MP-6

[fasRC]

Purple, I know about the handling, I have a Kenai Edition. I was just curious because there are rumors of an MP 8 next year.

[purplerides]

it would depend on how different the new model is on weather an upgrade kit is released or not.

[makaluch]

Would running a repaired servo wire near the metal radio tray posts cause glitching ? It seems to be intermittent. I checked everything ! I cannot simulate it with the electronics out of the car. The closest I can get is to put the antenna 1/2 inch from crystal.

[MISTERgadget]

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-4.jpg

Miami R/C raceway is proud to announce its first race! Come on sunday, november 25th, for the JLap thanksgving turkey race. Booby moore and team mugen USA will be there. saturday is practice day from 9 am to 5pm, and sunday registration is from 7:30 to 9 am, and racing starts at 11 am. Fees are 10 for practice and 10 for the race. It promises to be a great day, so come and show support for miami's first permanent rc off road track.

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-3.jpg

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-5.jpg

visit our website for more information, including rules and directions to the track.

Miami R/C Raceway Home (http://www.geocities.com/gadgetracing/miamirc)

[makaluch]

Do the standard diffs fit into the cases on the Kanai ? All I have to get it the diffs (planetaries) and the shafts ?

Would a home repaired servo wire cause glitching next to the alum. radio posts ? It's soldered and wrapped. I just can't figure out the glitching. It's intermittent and I've used trial and error on EVERY device ! Crystals, servos, receiver. I can't simulate the glitch out of the car. HHEEEEELLLP:( :confused: Mark

[StephenB]

To convert from the TCD diffs to the regular geared diffs (recommended), you'll need the small planetary gears, larger sun gears, a bag of small diff pins & a bag of the larger diff gear pins.

[DarkWraith]

Mark -

That's a weird one... It almost HAS to be the repaired servo wire as you have eliminated everything else...? Will it glitch in the car when the engine is not running? Or only when the engine is on? If only when on... That has to be it. Replace the servo for the time being and route the wires the same and see if the problem goes away...

Gotta weird one on your hands there... I've had no glitch problems with mine whatsoever.

[Xtremery]

DEFINATLEY CHECK YOUR WIRES!!!! I dont even want to tell you guys this it makes me so mad but my freakin cheap Airtronics wire covers were exposed just SLIGHTLY where it connects the switch to the reciever, well I put my brand freakin new KoPropo 2144 digital servos in... and within 2 seconds one of my brand new $2000088927098726 servo's went up in smoke... I was pissed!!!!
ALWAYS CHECK FOR EXPOSED WIRES!
GROUND+POWER TOUCHING TOGETHER=STRESS METER OVERLOAD!!!!!
-Ryan

[makaluch]

I appreciate the info guys !

The glitch happens when the motor gets hot...then continues after the motor is shut off. Seems to be heat related somehow.

RC NITRO has an article about foolproofing electronics. I'm going to send the servo to Airtronics to replace the wire and wrap the wires in fuel tubing. My receiver is bagged and wrapped in foam already. I also use the rubber mounts for the servos. In the article, I believe it mentioned that if the pipe touches the manifold under the coupler it may cause noise as well. I'll check for it.

Again, thanks for all the input.:) ...Mark Miranda...


Anybody using the 48 tooth spur ? I bought a great buggy from Jimmy Dibble and he said it really helps the top end motors snap better,...especially with the 13-tooth bell !

Yeah and by the way,...I'm looking for opinions on the best mid-range motor. An all around powerhouse is what I'm looking for. I was thinking the 5-port SBK...whad'ya think ?

[StephenB]

The 5-port SBK is not a mid-range motor...it's ballistic on top end but softer on the bottom & mid. The OS V99b or V01b's have an excellent overall powerband. If you like Novarossis, check out the 21BK or 21B (the 3 port). It has torque like you wouldn't believe and has a very tractable powerband. I'd recommend the SBK only if you're running the car on a looooooong track.

[makaluch]

StephenB - Do ya think the 48/13 combo would help the long stroke motors ? I'm really a fan of the RB WS7, but I'm open to try out other motors if I hear that they hold their tuning well.

I have an OS RG in the K-car right now and I like it for our medium track. In the Mugen I'm using a Picco G1 Pro. I LOVE the power and delivery,...when it's tuned. It wanders out of tune though. I've used every trick in the book to be sure the tuning isn't "false" and all checks out. I even run it till it's warm before I even try to tune. It's an outstanding motor, but just too much fiddling around for me ! I had a WS7, but sold it to fund a second 7.5. Soft on bottom, but impressive none the less.....K, enough yakin !!! LOL

:) Mark

[diesel757]

Mak-

Knowing that you have both a 7.5k and mugen xr, what would you suggest . Part availabilty is not a concern and they're priced only 50$ diff.(550xr, 600kanai)I'll probably go with a sw7 or a c4 for which ever one I choose. RB .21's rule!

Rumors of a mp8 spring '02, any one heard anything repitable?

[StephenB]

Makaluch, if you think the WS7 is soft on the bottom end power, you'll probably think the same about the SBK 5-port. Don't get me wrong; the SBK is an awesome engine, but like most engines it works well on some track sizes & not as well on others.

If you're looking for an engine that holds its tuning as well as ANY motor on the market, get a OS RZ-V01b. It's the only engine I'll race right now---it's the ultimate in reliability, with very impressive power. You might not have as much top end as an SBK, but you'll have more of a usable powerband on a medium size track. The Novarossi carbs aren't quite as high in my book for holding their tuning as much as the OS's are. They're tough to beat.

Also, the 48/13 combo won't help much with long-stroke motors. That's just a very good generic combo that works well for most engines. If I had an SBK, I'd want a 12t clutch bell for my track---unfortunately, I haven't found one of those yet made by Kyosho!

[makaluch]

Well, I prefer the Kanai with standard diffs. In my opinion the shocks, and the handling too. The Mugens are better for a smoother tight track. Steering is too good !! LOL. The Mugens are funny feeling in the back end too. I think the pillow ball front end is the culprit. It's really a preference thing.

Thanks for the engine input StephenB. I also like the OS engines. So far I've owned the WS7,an OS RG, and a Picco G1. Both the RB and the Os are great ! I've got an MT12 that's a little powerhouse too ! The Novarossi's seem to carburate well too....Thanks guys !!!...Mark

P.S. It's good to know I can ask anything and know there's an answer somewhere in this BB. Kudos to the developers, moderators and all the outstanding members !!!:D

[makaluch]

I left out a comment on the PiccoG1. Also an intense motor, but for the more experienced (or patient) tuners. If there's a carb out there that I can just pop in I think it will be an improvement. When tuned,...it flat out screams !!! Feels similar to the OS RZV's but pulls longer and harder. I rebuilt, broke in and tuned my buddy's OS about six months ago.

So my question is: Is there a carb that pops into the Picco's that hold a tune better ? If so,...where can I find it ?

[StephenB]

The only carb I'd want in the Picco is an OS carb. Unfortunately, it's kinda difficult to get an OS in the Picco, as the OS's carb is a few m.m. too large. A buddy of mine ground down the OS carb neck however, and now it's sitting in my Picco G1 engine, all sealed up. It's awesome, but you're taking the risk of killing the OS carb when you take a dremel to it.

[DarkWraith]

Balls Stephen........ Pure balls...... Cool it worked out though.

Im with Mak. I have a WS7 in mine and it is simply as good as I will ever need. I've been very happy.

It occasionally loads up if Im putting around... And I get the occasional "RB" flameout, but all in all I am extremely pleased.

[makaluch]

Anyone have some input on the best overall setup as far as toe goes. I noticed some guys using the Fioroni adjustable blocks out back. Is 3deg. suggested ? Don't you have to change the front block to accept the altered hingepin angle too ? Is the front in need of a toe change as well ?

Also is there any aftermarket toe blocks that can lock the hingepin... to avoid wear in the block's pin hole ?:confused:

[StephenB]

Wraith, lol...either balls or pure bravery/stupidity :p

[makaluch]

Anyone know of an aftermarket toe-plate that can lock the hingepins ?

Where can I find Fioroni sliding clutches...shoes and flywheel ? I noticed that Ace doesn't carry them. Also, does any flywheel work on the 7.5's ? I noticed that the stock one has a smaller diameter than the Mugen's stock one. I also noticed that the 7.5 flywheel's got a step in it that moves the bell forward.

[StephenB]

Don't know about the toe-plates (none that I've seen do that).

GS Racing is the only licensed Fioroni dealer in the US, so go to their website and look up dealers. Typically, any shop that orders GS products can order Fioroni products.

Any flywheel will NOT work on the 7.5 The engine sits much lower on the 7.5 than other buggies; use flywheels that are designed ONLY for the 7.5! If you get a Fioroni sliding clutch, you'll need a Fioroni flywheel anyway :cool:

[makaluch]

I was pretty sure that was the case. I've had a few people trying to sell me a regular flwwheel/clutch setup with buggies I've bought. Then when I asked if it was for the 7.5's they claimed there was no difference.

Thanks for the confirmation. And,...I'll have to check into Horizon for Fioroni stuff. Our LHS is mostly Horizon-dependent. A part number might help if my LHS can't find it. Thanks StephenB !

[team_luigis]

need help now,i wanted to buy a off road truck a tmaxx,i dint cause my lhs said things about it and bla bla,after that i have ordered a nmt but i dint pick it up cause other people were telling me that the nmt after a while the truck come loose,so i decided to get a buggie,but i dont know whitch one to get,
mp6
mp6 sport
mp7.5
i know that there is a cheap pipe and exhaust on it,and apparently the kyosho wngine dosent last long what do you suggest me what to get ??
i am thinking getting a mp7.5 whit a world7 rb engine:D :D :D :D :D

[makaluch]

Don't get a RTR Kyosho...or a sport. The 7.5 is the ticket. If you're new to 1/8th scale, the OS RG will be PLENTY to learn with (1.9hp vs. 2.4) and it'll save you $120 beans over the WS7.

Relatively bulletproof compared to any 1/10 scale ! And if you drive super-aggressive, and find yourself bangin the boards and other buggies, you'll find that the Fioroni front knuckles are all you'll need.

Good luck !

[team_luigis]

there isnt any bords thought lol anyway i hope the guy will sell me his brand new mp7.5 never used to me at a good price tomarow,
good bless me
amen
lol
whats those feroni things ?:rolleyes:

[team_luigis]

yessssssssssss i got the mp7.5 for 800$ canadian no tax
i just need a engine.pipe exhaust:confused:

[makaluch]

Anyone runnin the Mip cvd's in their 7.5's ? How's their durability ? Is notching the pin the best way to keep it in there ? Or maybe heat shrink...

I was just going to buy the center universals, but I noticed the MIP's were a few bucks cheaper and rebuildable. You can buy each part individually. I think it's the better buy. It's strength and durability I'm wondering about.

[team_luigis]

hi i have my mp7.5 it is all build and i will like to know witch up ups to get and how should i paint my body? pictures will be apreciated
thanks:cool:

[makaluch]

So is there any input on the MIP CVD's ? Just wonderin if my money was ill spent...wouldn't be the first time !! LOL.

TL - up ups, huh ? hehe...better springs and Fioroni front hubs...that's about it. All the other stuff is just eye candy or bulletproofing. Some upgrades are just pure performance, but if you're not a serious racer you don't need 'em.

[team_luigis]

the mp7.5 is half cvd and half universals
the kanai edition is all universal
cvd i dot know but i know that universal is better thought

i am just buying a failsafe
temp guauge
1 hi torque servo
1 baterry pack and charger
and a bump start
and finaly my rb world7 whit pipe included
2 pair of tires
wow that is expensiffffffffffffffffffffffffffff
+ the tires of the mp7.4 are cheap

[team_luigis]

someone ????????????

[DarkWraith]

I'm finally back around.... Darn @Home... Issues...

Anyways....

The Kanai came with darn near everything I even thought of upgrading... I like the Al radio tray posts and also the "finned" engine mounts. You think the new front hubs are better than stock? How come? I ain't broke mine yet though either.

I have the temp gauge and its within 10 degrees or so (the MIP one). I would like to get a failsafe but the Futaba one I looked at only works with NiCDs and not NiMH..... Not sure WHY; but that's what I read. I would love more info on this. (I am a mechanical engineer, not an electrical one!)

The MIP CVDs are nice... That pin LOVES to fall out though. Secure that sucker in there for good somehow. I suggest a flat on the pin, loctite and shrinktube over it.

As for the WS7.... LUV IT...

[makaluch]

I haven't broken the stock front hubs either, but I've heard that the stock aluminum is very soft. It's really easy to strip them and/or rip 'em out in a bad crash or hard bump pass.

Dark Wraith - what clutch are you running with the WS7 ? I've heard the Fioroni clutches are very nice, but I can't find them. I can get 'em on EBAY, but that won't help me when the shoes need to be replaced.

[team_luigis]

no the hubs are ok,dont need to change them until they brake
apparently the 14 teeth clutch gives hell out of power out of the rbw7,i will by that clutch cause i trust that guy,he spend 4000$ on his buggie :):rolleyes:

[DarkWraith]

Mak -

I got the clutch shoes on that came with the kit to be honest with you... Good enough for him - good enough for me I figured. I have one spare of this as well. I've had no issues (performance or wear) so I haven't felt the need to tweak them at all.

I'll be playing that by ear I suppose...

[makaluch]

TL- actually the 13 tooth is better for a top-end motor on a normal sized track. If the track has a loooonnng straight you might have a slight advantage with the 14-tooth if you're setup perfect ... to handle the turn at the end.

DarkWraith - I noticed that the WS7 is a little soft on bottom with the two shoes. It's excellent for tracks that don't have great traction, but when you do (have traction) they drag pretty good and heat up the bell.

[StephenB]

There's no difference between the "regular" 7.5 and the Kanai's front hubs. They both are probably the weakest parts of the car; if you're concerned with durability during long mains, I'd suggest checking into the Fioroni machined aluminum 7075 steering knuckles---they're blue (bonus!) and they're virtually unbreakable. The cast knuckles in the regular & Kanai 7.5 kits are junk.

[team_luigis]

That is called SPAM.

[purplerides]

i haven't had a problem with the stock hubs , in fact there the same as the mp-6's front hubs and i never had a problem with them after years of abuse either. What problems are you having with them , the fioroni hubs are pretty but also pretty pricey , are you sure you guys aren't telling yourselves the stock ones are no good so you don't feel as bad spending that kind of money on eye candy...LOL

[makaluch]

Well,...maybe...hehehe:rolleyes:

But seriously, I've seen a stock hub bent and the top kinkpin hole stripped. I've also been told that the arm is positioned different and a different length to get more steering.

[DarkWraith]

Thought I would drag us back onto the top of the heap, eh?

Anybody been using their Kanai? Or are we too good for winter running? :D

Supposed to be a bit warmer here in the 'Burgh tomorrow; might get a chance to get out there. We've barely had enough snow to warrant the "saran wrap and run" treatment yet...

Thought about rebuilding the diffs although I barely have 1/2 gallon or so thru it so I thought it was still a little early as I am not really racing the darn thing...

[treky11]

to dark:

the reason futaba says the fail safe wont work with NiMh is because of the voltage drop off rate of NiMh cells.

Nicads drop off slowly when they begin to die, giving the failsafe ample time to activate. When NiMh cells die they fall of very quickly and can sometime not give enough time/warning for the failsafe to kick in.

NOTE and use it with caution. I have yet to see this happen with decent NiMh cells. Several of us run NiMh cells in our 1/8 scale on road and 1/8 scale off road cars/buggies. We have all been fine, but we are aware of the risk that we are taking. I have had the failsafe kick in several time and never had a problem, yet....:rolleyes:

[StephenB]

I've never seen a NimH pack drop from normal operating voltage to 0 volts & cause a total failure. The Futaba unit cuts off at 4volts, and even a nimh pack will gradually drop & pass by 4volts---I'm running the Futaba & KO units (identical units btw) and have had super results.

Don't let the "for nicads only" tag worry you---chances are, you're taking MUCH more of a risk if you don't run a failsafe than if you run one with nimh packs :cool:

[DarkWraith]

Well.......... Coming from you is good enough for this weekend racer... It's on order... AND THX TO BOTH OF YOU. :)

[Merkel54]

Any of you live in or around Phoenix? I've lived in Northern Illinois for to long now and I am thinking of moving. I'm getting tired of waiting for months to get on the track.

[mp75unlimited]

Hi guys!

I know I don't have a Kanai - just the Sports. But I made up a site which some of you probably know already.

Nitro Buggies (http://www.nitro-buggies.com/)

It has, what I believe the most comprehensive detailed information on the 7.5 Sports and a very detailed comparison between the 3 models of the 7.5.

Lemme know what you think! :D

[Nitro Ned]

OK, the $54 question.

Who has the Best pricing / service on the MP 7.5 Kanai. Wanted to know what the street price out there was. The best brice I have seen for a Kanai was $629.99 from some place called ******** but I could never get a return email or phone call. Then I called them and the guy answered and said I had the wrong place. So what ever, low price is great but service helps too.


Thanks for the feed back

P.S. Sorry for the off forum post, I did try to delete but no go.
I F-ed up.

[Chief]

Ok so oi have decided that i could make my chassis quite a bit lighter by drilling strategically placed holes in it without sacraficing strength. What do yall think about dirt going up in there through all the new holes though?? anybody have any ideas? anyone ever done this before? I see alot of guys running their pirates with the body up really high so i guess it couldnt hurt hunh? (by the way i think it looks stupid when people do that lol)

Oh and one more thing Stehen B i noticed your in Houston also.. where do you race at? We have probably met. Anyway just curious im itching to race someone new. :)

[DarkWraith]

Ned... I got mine from NationalRC for $550 a while back. They were even LESS there for a while before I bought mine. Since, they have raised their price to $650 which is about what I've seen them for almost everywhere. I really like NationalRC and have had nothing but GOOD LUCK with them. (Got my engine and other items from there as well... Friend also got his 1/8 there) A good bunch o' folks. The $630 is perty good.

Chief... I'll try and post a pic tonight, but what you could do... If you want to drill lightening holes and still keep the dirt out is to then attach a lexan skid plate. You have two routes.

1. AE makes a cut it yourself thin, adhesive backed lexan sheet than you can cut to your chassis size and slap on. Very light, keep your chassis and screws all good. I have one on my TR-15.
And keeps the dirt out while keeping the weight down. Not very reusable though. Lasts a month or two.
2. Like I did on MY Kanai. I took the chassis and put six #4-40 tapped holes in strategic locations. Got a sheet of .030 lexan and cut out for my chassis. Long story made short. I use the six #4-40s to attach it to my chassis. It is a little thicker and much more durable. Can be removed easily, for cleaning, etc... It turned out awesome. My chassis still looks brand new under it. As I said I will post a pic tonight. All screw heads are virgin. The only ones that get damaged are the #4-40s and WHO CARES. Cut'em and put new ones in. ;)

Personally, I do NOT like when a ton of crap gets up in my car, although it is inevitable. But why make it worse? It can get into the filter, the gears, the CVDs, etc... And cause problems. The custom plate does not affect your weight or ground clearance (very minimal) and allows you to lighten the chassis as needed. WIN WIN... Did I sell you on it yet? :D

[Chief]

Pics would be much appreciated. So when you ran without the lexan did you get a lot of dirt up in there? Do you know how much you lightened it by any chance and could you feel and see the difference at all? Thanks alot Darth.

[StephenB]

Chief, I'm across the street from Rice University (where I went to college) but right now I'm out of Texas for 6 months for work. If you're looking to race, head out to J's Offroad in Pasadena. It's just down 45 and is worth the short drive. Have you raced out there before?

[Chief]

Yeah i went to J's action a few times. I liked it and its only about 15 min. from my house. The track is awesome but i think it needs a longer straight. I usually go out to M&M hobbies, besause the track is soo fast. Long straights and good size jumps with a tripple on it. Anyway, maybe when you get back ill see you out at one of the track sometime and we can race. Good luck with your work out there.

[makaluch]

Maybe I'm missing something, but masking tape on the bottom sounds like an easier and cheaper way to keep dirt out of the holes. It'll take alot of the abuse the chassis normally would and even if a small hole is popped in it it should keep excessive dirt off the top of the chassis. Then just peel it off and it's clean.

Just sounded like it was simpler to me. Maybe I'm just stupid or something:rolleyes:

[makaluch]

Hey, what about clear packing tape ? Maybe two coats ?

UhDuhNo:confused:

[DarkWraith]

Yeah.. Those would all WORK... I'm going for cool here... Come on!
You think I got those gunmetal rims for speed? ;)

Anyways... As promised, here are some pics of my custom made skid plate...

Lemme know if there are any ?'s!

[DarkWraith]

The chassis underneath is immaculate. Note the big scratch to the right of the flywheel... Made when landing ON TOP of my buddies EB-4 engine cooling head (which bent!)... Oops...

Also note the cutouts for various screws and notches in the chassis.

[Chief]

Yeah come one guys im not gonna put tape on any of my hobbies i can tell you that right now. Anyway Darth it looks great. Looks like it holds up real good. I might have to give it a try. Thanks for the idea. Have fun racing.
-Tim

[makaluch]

Well, I saw somewhere that they make a chassis mask to use for situations like you're describing. Most racers that look to lighten their chassis just want to win and to be able to do repairs quickly,...not to look great. Sorry if I sounded like I was patronizing anyone. I was just trying to point out a simpler way is all.

DarkWraith - that looks great by the way !!! I'm not a regular racer so I might do it to mine ! I can see that it might be tough to do maintenance though...especially the stock center diff.

[DarkWraith]

Oh yeah... Agreed... I do not race much at all so speed of maintenance is not an issue. I'll tell you though, the screw heads are perfect which is nice (once you take the protector off).

I suppose for those "critical" screws you can cut out holes in the chassis protector such that you could get to those while keeping everything else protected.

[Chief]

Heh heh, Dark do you think i could have got carried away with the lightening? I swear its amazing my chassis is about half the wight it used to be lol. I cant notice any difference in strength when i muscle it around in my hands. Well have to see when i get to run it. Ill get some more updated pics soon too.


Sorry camera sucks. Anyway here is the top plate. I polished it so shiny i cant even hardly get a good picture of it. It is just too bright lol.

[Chief]

I dont know how to get more than one picture on there. Anyway here is the top plate.

[DarkWraith]

Well Chief... MAYBE A LITTLE CRAZY!

But I'll be honest...

I LIKE IT... :D

You aren't into making crop circles or anything like that are u! LOL

For the most part, it doesn't appear as though you've drastically reduced the strength in any one area, although an hour on the track will prove that for sure... You definately need something under there to keep the dirt out though IMO.

[Chief]

lol thanks Darth. Yeah I will see when i test it. I think it will be fine though. You should see how much lighter it is! I cant believe it myself. I wish i had a digital cam to take pictures of these polished pieces i have. The pic doesent do it justice. They look like chrome. Anyway i cant wait to see how much quiker my buggy will be... heh it is a little crazy when you actually hold it and see it.

[StephenB]

That chassis must be a nightmare when the track is moist/damp/muddy...suddenly goes from being light weight to weighing 20lbs! :o

[Coconut]

Darkwrath: Futuba means not to run with alkaline or other such battereis. I run with NIMH Rx pack all the time ;works great. The Futuba unit is the best from what I've seen. I talked to a futuba tech and he said no problem the instructions were written awhile back before nimh were really used.

[DarkWraith]

cool... there will definately be one in the car early in the season this year...

[Enrique.v]

Do they make a Graphite radio plate for the 7.5?:confused:

[DarkWraith]

They do... And they have (had) them over at NationalRC, but when I went to get one they did NOT recomend it (at least the one they had at the time which was Fioroni or N.F.), because it was too thin and wasn't nearly strong enough. They said it didn't last them a weekend without breaking.

There may be others making them out there now which are better but I don't know who... If you find'em, let me know, I want one too! :D

[AEAddict]

hey DarkWraith... what'd you use to make that chassis protector ? I'm NOT gunna run my H7Pro without a protector.. it's too pretty!!

I'm thinkin about getting that Associated Chassis Protector sheet... but it's $10.00 for the sheet... should I get that ? or could you please help describe to me how U made yours?

thanks!

[DarkWraith]

well... the one on my Kanai is plyable lexan sheet i picked up where i work (we design automation equipement)... its about 0.030 inches thick and is translucent, not clear... from there i cut it out using razors and stout scissors... couple through holes here and there for screw and protrusions... and drilled and tapped chassis to match in 6 spots around the outsides... works awesome man... worth the little extra effort... reusable and keeps a chassis, which costs alot, lookin new...

i do use the 10 buck sticky sheet on my TR though and it works ok as well.... but once you peel it off, its off... is you leave it over the screw heads, you can't tighten loose ones... if you cut out for them, they get crud up in them... the one above, remove, tighten the virgin screw (no dremelin' needed) and put back on... :D

the only screws that get damaged are the 4-40s holding the chassis protector on, and i have 1000 of them as spares...

drop me an email w/ any other questions... i got some xtra of that lexan 'round here somewhere... :confused: i'll try to dig it up

[AEAddict]

That sounds awesome Wraith! I wish I had the lexan to do that with, but my hobby shops really dont sell that stuff in sheets big enough to create a full-on chassy protector.

Hmm... I'll try to look around.. maybe *in the future* i could work a deal with you to purchase that Lexan, for say $5.00 or so, and I pay the S&H... something like that. I can't right now, got bills to pay.. but maybe in a month or so. Lemmie' know! Thanks for helpin me out.

[DarkWraith]

dude... ill spot ya.... :D

if i find it... youll owe me one.... k? lol.........

[AEAddict]

That's awesome Wraith. I'd really appriciate it man. :)

People like you are the people that keep this board in great shape, I really like that. Thanks man.

Keep me updated. :)


*maybe* one of these days, we could race each other too...

[ofna_Kdog]

does anyone know if a proline crowd pleaser body will fit on an mp6 with proper drilling in the body??

[speedydave]

I think ProtoForm makes a MP-6 body.

-Dave

[bad andy]

I fit a crowd pleazer body to my mp5 with not too much trouble, if that's of any help. This one was for the mbx4 however. The 7.5 version may be better to try though, this is just the only version my lhs had at the time. I believe with the proper trimming, any 1/8 body can be finnagled onto any 1/8 buggy.

[DR.GT]

Hi All:

I'm a new racer to 1/8 scale ( been racing 1/10 gas trucks for 7 years) and just recently purchased a 7.5. Anyways what is the life expectancy of the .21 engines (RZ-99B). Can a guy get 4-5 gallons of 20% out one when run around 200-220*

thanks...

[BuggyBoy]

well youd be lucky to get 1 gallon without having to change something. im not to familiar with OS because i dont really like them. i run RB have to change a few things. every 15 tanks pretty much check the whole motor over.

[ofna_Kdog]

I ran 6 tanks through my Ofna Delta 8 port without ever taking it apart. I raced it against my new Collari 3200 and it can still keep up. Run it rich and it'll live pretty long.

[DR.GT]

ofna Kdog:

Surely you mean 6 gallons, not tanks eh! It would be pretty costly to run this class at 1 engine per every 6 tanks. LOL

:)

[BuggyBoy]

DR GT. some .21 motors will go really really fast. and its best to break them in on a bench not in the buggy.

soon you will realize that Buggy Racing is the most expensive RC to race.

[BuggyBoy]

what i meant by going really fast is breaking. lol

but they are fast in speed to :)

they just have the motors tweaked so bad that one little thing going wrong kaboom !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol j/p

but ive seen motors break every single race.
most of the time its the piston rod.

[DR.GT]

BuggyBoy:

I've seen my fair share of expolding engines. I'm definately experienced and good in tuning engines. Its that I was interested in a average .21 engine survival rate. I've read that if you can run at around 200+ the engines survive quite well. I'll be the first in our area to run a 1/8 buggy so there won't be to much in our area for awhile. I will be able to go to a few races this summer and run the 7.5 though. The OS RZ-V99B that came with the car has about 2 gallons thru it and is pretty tight.I guess I'll pick up another engine to run as a spare. I'm kinda partial towards Rossi's so would the S7 be a good choice? I got a great deal on the buggy ( its loaded with hopups and came complete with everything and extras except fuel so thats why I got it ( almost like winning a small lottery LOL).

:)

[BuggyBoy]

dont get the WS7 get the S7 if i were you id keep your OS as a backup motor. and get a nice motor to run.
the C4s you will be changing clutch bell bearings ALOT i mean every race. its got alot of power and rips up the buggy.
but i run a WS7 with the 086 one peice pipe. best setup you can get for running all different tracks.
the motor has a good amt of lowend. so put a nice topend pipe on and you got a good setup !!


i dont own a 7.5 kanai i own a mugen XR works but i just was reading all the forums hehe :)

[Slicks]

Can I get a copy of the Kania manual from someone....does anyone know how many differences there are between the regular mp7.5 manual and the Kania edition? I have the regular mp7.5 manual and just need the kania supplement or the different manual. Also does anyone have a copy of the parts list for the Kania(to inventory the parts). I bought a kit that has no manual and is missing some parts. Thanks for the help, I can't wait to get this beast running! You can E-mail me or private message me with the info.....Jason

[DarkWraith]

lemme see if I can *find* my stuff in the mess in my "area" and i'll try to get scans of it to you... might be a couple days... hold tight... :D

[Slicks]

Okay cool, I appreciate it a lot!........Jason

[DR.GT]

Hi Guys:

Well, I finally got my 7.5 today. What weights oils are you all using in your diffs? I'll be running on a rough track. Also what shock oils and springs would you use for rough track.

thanks...

[Slicks]

Can anyone help me with this? Where can I order a manual or supplement from?

[Nitro Man00]

Those of you looking for an engine heres what I think. I have run all of the engines that Im going to talk about so its not something I just heard. Everyone has there own preference so choose what you feel is best. The RB S7 and WS7 have the same powerband, they lack lowend and have more top end than any motor ive used. Mugen white shoes with 1.0 springs proved to be the best set up. The O.S. is my second favorite its the best of both worlds (top and low end). Its easy to tune and has the best carberator of the bunch. My favorite engine would have to be the Novarossi SBK. It has tons of low end and is about equal to the O.S. on the high end. In my opinion it feels like it has the most power. I ran black shoes with 1.0 springs on these two motors along with an 086 pipe on all engines. There is no best motor and no best all around motor. Many of the european drivers run RB S7 and the Novarossi CLB because they have alot of top end and there tracks are flat. In my opinion the os and novarossi suit american tracks much better. I run a Kanai.

[jimbo]

The RBS-7 and WS-7 are basically the same except for the treated crank and con-rod.The S-7 has better lowend because it doesn't use the plastic carb inserts like the WS-7. The inserts disturb the air-flow to the crank. You either run a S-7 carb on the WS-7 or buy the Novarossi aluminum 8mm insert for the WS-7 carb. This will give it more lowend.The Mugen white shoes grab great but the pin holes wear very quick because of their softness. The SBK-5port is a topend motor while the SB is their 3-port lowend motor. I also have the Nova 4-port CLB (longstroke) which is a lowend motor. I am having it ported for more Topend. Yes, the OS motors seem to be the easiest to tune and stay the most consistant through out the day. Any of these motors that seem to lack lowend can be fixed by drilling or cutting the clutch shoes or going to a stiffer spring such as the Mugen 1.1. I am running the aluminum shoes with the 1.1 springs that seem to work fine with no mods. It just depends on which motor you run and how hard you like the bottom end to hit.

[BuggyBoy]

Jimbo you know what your saying? the carb inserts disturb the fow ?!?!?!

dude them are for fine tuning if your getting to much air into the engine cause of the 9mm carb...

you dont run with them in most guys dont even use them..
and the WS7 is alot nicer then the regular S7

[jimbo]

Buggyboy, look at the transition with both carbs side by side. The S7 is smooth aluminum going right to the crank. The WS7 is plastic and flatens out to accept the inserts. This makes the air swirl and doesn't allow as much flow into the carb. That is why you put the Novarossi aluminum insert in.The more air, the more fuel = the more lowend you get. It is a smoother taper than the plastic. Go to a big race and you will see more S7 than WS7. Look at any RB that is in the A or B main at big race. They will either have a sandard Nova carb,a Nova 8mm insert or some run the OS carb. BTW no one even uses the inserts at any big race. How is the WS7 nicer?? Talk to someone who modifies engines and see what they tell you about the carb.I currently run 2-WS7 and 1-S7, A Richey Mod CLB, Paris Mod G1pro-Bv, Paris Nova BK, 2-V99b,CMB-SSi, Nova SBK-01. Call Bill or Richy at NRC and as them Tell him Jimbo told you to call. or Dennis Richey or Paris Racing.

[MadUsa1]

how much are you guys paying for your MP7.5's / Kanais???

[DR.GT]

Hi All:

I previously asked this question but no one answered it. What would be good shock oil weight to use and spring rates (color) to use on a rough track for my 7.5 and the front and rear shock locations for a ballpark figure to start with.

thanks...:)

[purplerides]

Dr.GT this is the set-up i use
Front: black 2 hole pistons, 35 oil, mounted upper inner hole on tower and inner hole on arm. Blue springs. 1 1/2 degree's camber, 1 degree toe out. Diff, stock front with 3000. Medium sway bar. Ride height.... arms just above level.
Center diff. stock diff with 7000
Rear: black 2 hole pistons with 25 weight oil. middle lower on tower, and inner hole on arm. Blue springs. Stock sway bar. 2 degree toe in, 1 1/2 degree camber. long wheelbase. stock diff with 1000wt or JT-6 grease. ride height....arms level

[xxxnt_legend]

Is this forum for any Inferno MP7.5?
I am considering getting an Inferno MP7.5 Sports and I need some questions answered.
How good is this kits?
I will be using for racing and gradually be racing as my club (1hr 15min away) races 1/8 scale buggies. It's not worry becuase my brother lives in that town.
How durable is it?
How hot does the enigine run?
How much is built?
Any can you please mention any thing else. Thanks.

[DR.GT]

purplerides:

Thanks for info on setups. I'm new to 1/8 scale but been around for 13 years. I see that everyone seems to like the blue springs. I'll have to get me some.

[xxxnt_legend]

I ma now thinking about a regular version MP7.5. I would be getting an O.S .21RG-X for it. Does anyone have this engine on theirs? Also, I noticed that it doesn't have diff or shock fluid. What weight is recommended?

[purplerides]

check my post above for shock and diff fluids

[Raydee]

I just bought a regular 7.5 yesterday and was told by my friend that ownes a store that the kit is already discountinued!! Release date on the new Inferno is somewhere in June. Man I can't keep up. I don't know for sure if it is just the Kania or the whole 7.5 line of cars but I know a new version will be coming out soon. Does anybody else have any input. Will most of the parts be interchangeable like the 5 and the 6 were or will it be a whole new buggy like the 7.5 is??

[rcboy618]

mugen is also coming out with a new buggy, but you guys probably wouldnt care :)

[Raydee]

It will be interesting to see what improvments Kyosho and Mugen make to their buggies!

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

hey guys,
im going to get the regular 7.5 in about 6 weeks time,
would you guys say its a good kit? Im not sure if I should wait till the new inferno comes out, but even when it does, it will probably take a while to arrive in australia.

Are there any weak parts as such on this car?

Also do any of you guys have any sites or info about this "new" inferno? or do yo think its just another rumour... :confused:

thanks in advance,
uDi

[diesel757]

someone has to know where we can find some info or pics of the new kyosho and mugen buggies.:confused:

[DR.GT]

From what I hear ( regan Leblanc) its just upgrade parts to make the Kanai even better than it is.

:)

[diesel757]

i wonder if it will be around the same price as the 7.5 and the XR, or will it go even higher than the price of the kania.

[CyberISda]

Hey guys! I assume that you all guys knows about this mp 7.5 stuff, here is my Q?

Is Mp7.5 Sports edition fits all the parts from Kanai? Is this can be upgraded to Kanai ED?

I might buy the sports edition coz i don't have enough extra bucks to buy that kanai, beside my LHS down here doesn't sell any parts rather than KYHOSHO.



:confused:

[SuperGogeta]

Originally posted by CyberISda
Hey guys! I assume that you all guys knows about this mp 7.5 stuff, here is my Q?

Is Mp7.5 Sports edition fits all the parts from Kanai? Is this can be upgraded to Kanai ED?

I might buy the sports edition coz i don't have enough extra bucks to buy that kanai, beside my LHS down here doesn't sell any parts rather than KYHOSHO.



:confused:
they will fit cos they are identical:cool:

[diesel757]

this is probably a no no but.......what other boards have good 7.5 forums?:D

[Nitro Man00]

I talked to our rep at great plains about the "Kanai 2." She told me that the release date is going to be at the end of july. The Retail price will be 999.99, which is the same as the current kanai. As far a I know the up grades are bigger shocks like the new mugen with the 3.5mm shafts, new caster blocks which appear very similar the the Hyper 7 hubs, better or different hinge pin mounts possibly alumnium toe blocks, "shark fin" looking splash guard the one all the factory drivers have, theres a few others but I cant remember now. If any of you guys are looking for a really good bullitin board where most of the factory guys post check out www.sgrid.com.

[moep]

I just got a link to the new Kanai 2-Parts emailed, check it out (scroll down to see the new parts):


Click (http://www.cmc-versand.de/bilder/08/8-31271.jpg)

Nothing revolutionary... sorta Kanai V1.1 :rolleyes:

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

WOW, they have upgraded like jack all! They could do better than that..... Moep, its more like Kanai 1.01..
My plan is to get the regular MP7.5, and then later (when Kanai II comes to Australia, it takes ages, because Australia is soo slow) I'll upgrade to Kanai II parts. By that time I might have more cash on me too.

[moep]

Yup, thats just what i did, got a 7.5 a few days ago.
Its also taking ages to get the Kanai 2 to Austria (without the al ;)The Kanais are very expensive here (over 900$ for the kanai 1, the regular is under 500$) so the regular 7.5 is the way to go for me. As a basher / clubracer I don't need those LSDs so badly.

the thing i really need now is the WS7... aaaah, i just cant wait...

[DR.GT]

moep:

You could be waiting forever for a RB. Have you thought of trying a CMB (another Italian) engine.
I have heard nothing but GOOD. They have a Raptor and a SI. model and run cooler and last longer between rebuilds (8-10 gallons). Check out www.reidrc.com.

:D

[moep]

Thanks for the suggestion, DR.GT!
I haven't heard about CMB yet, but if the (W)S7 doesn't show up this week, ill go for a other engine - maybe a CMB.
My LHS would have the OS 21RZ-V01B and the PICCO G1 PRO-B in stock, but my first choice would still be the WS7.

However, here is a pic of my 7.5 waiting for an engine... ;)

http://www.moep.at/phpuploaded/inf_1.jpg

[DR.GT]

moep:

I'm running a OS RZ-99Vb right now (previous to new 01). I'm using a 086 pipe and this is a good engine, easy to tune, holds its settings, and is plenty fast enough. If you can get a new OS 01 you can't go wrong with that either. I just finished breaking mine in (just came back from being pinched)this morning and shes got some snap!

When I am in the market for a new engine I'm going to get a CMB for sure. I'm not a Picco fan but each to his own...

:)

[moep]

Well, i dropped the RB-Distributor a mail, there's still no supply in sight. I plan to race my buggy on my vacation in Sardinia, which starts on the 8th of July.
So, i'll have to get a other engine than the S7, but i really don't know which one I should go for...

Those CMBs may be fine engines (well, i never heard of them, but i trust in you... ;)) but guess its really hard to get a new piston / sleeve for those - isn't it?
I don't know a distributor of CMB in Europe.
However, ill take a closer look to the CMB, are there any claimed HP-ratings? Or any reviews/comments?

Thanks...

[DR.GT]

moep:

If you email Steven Talley at:

spt1978@outdrs.net

He can get one for you within a week and half and advise you on what you need. He has a shop and knows his stuff. Just tell him what your running it in and he'll give you some great info on the different engines. BTW, the CMB's are very popular in Europe and I think he said its only about $40 for a new Piston & sleeve. He also sells them with a matching pipe and header to maximize the engine's performance.

let me know how it goes...

:)

[diesel757]

:(

[Merkel54]

I have the S7 and it has been great, I had a little trouble with it at the end of last season (second season for this motor) it wouldnt run under 250 I put a new sleeve and piston in it this winter and have gotten it run in using the new way suggested in RCCA. Now it is running at about 220 and again like new. I have been tempted to try something new but Why!!!

[DR.GT]

diesel757:

I believe that the S1 is similar to a C4 or more of a top end engine. I've heard that the new Raptor 10 port that has taken the place of the S1 (6 port) is much stronger and is very similar to the s7/ws7 mold ( just that its available lol). They also have a SS1 as well.

:)

[diesel757]

ooops!

[moep]

I just got a mail from my rb-distributor, he told me that there are 15 (W)S7 engines on the way to him, they should arrive tomorrow.

Now I'm really torn between a WS7 and a CMB, the WS7 would be available for sure, i guess the CMB too (haven't got a mail from them yet).

The CMB seems to be a really sweet engine.
It appears to have lots of power (claimed 2.85+) and runs very cool (and long between the rebuilds) b/c of its tappered Piston.
The bad thing about it is, that I haven't got enough feedback on it. Some say its great, one of the best engines arround, ... and some say its pure BS.

I think ill go for the WS7...


:o

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

I think you should too;)

however I have heard that CMB make some very nice engines..

[moep]

Weeeeehhhhh, I did it. ;)

Can't wait to break it in, but I haven't got the right equipment right now (10% Cool-Power Fuel + Very Cold Plugs + Rich Setting + Hand-Starter = ohoh...), the right stuff will arrive this week.
:)

Here's a Pic...

http://www.moep.at/phpuploaded/ws75.jpg

[moep]

Ah, forgot: Anyone who wonders about the Fuel-tubing:

Its just to keep the Tank sealed between the runs... ;)

[go1d1e]

Real nice looking Moep! do we get to see the body too?

[Merkel54]

moep I think you have your shocks set a little to tight. Your car wont take the bumps with them set so tight. Bring the collar all the way up to the top and I think youll find that your Buggy will handle much better. Just and observasion :D

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

I have been told by a few people that the stock regular 7.5 spring are far too soft... Any comments on this? what do you guys think?

Also, moep, are your springs dark green...?...because everyone says the regular 7.5 comes w/dark green springs? They look black to me though.... (in one of your closeup pics at maxxtraxx)

Hope you can clear this up
uDi

[Merkel54]

The springs would be Black, Green, or White. It looks like moeps are black. For a buggy on a bumpy track you should use the two hole damper with say a 20 to 35 silcone fluid and probally the green springs but the buggy comes with either the white or black. (Mine came with whites) Mine is a regular 7.5 not the RTR or Kan. I'm not a racer or anything I'm just going from what I have tried and read in Nitro Mag. My track is relativly bumpy and I use Whites with 20 weight silicone and the collar all the way up with no spacers and it seems to absorb the bumps really well with this set up. I resently read an articale in the new Nitro Mag that deals with just this subject and it was very helpfull. Hope this helps.

[Merkel54]

Moep, I also noticed that you have your rear sway bar in. The article I spoke of in the above post also stated, and I have heard this elsewhere, that you should only use the sway bar on flat tracks with long sweeping turns. Just a little bit more info.



P.S. Hope you don't think I'm dissing your Buggy because that would be the furthest from the truth, your buggy looks awsome. just trying to help out.

[DR.GT]

Merkel54:

I have been told by almost all the top 7.5 racers that they use the sway bars on the car. Even Regan Leblanc (Kyosho Team Manager) says to use them. I run on a pretty rough track and I use them to stabilize the car.

:)

[moep]

@Merkel:
Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate it. However, my Local Track is very flat - almost a onroad Track with dirt ;) - so I decided to put those colars down. I'll experiment with it, though.

I'm not sure what's the deal with the swaybar, so I'll just run it with and without the bar to see which one seems to be better for me.

@uDi_NMT:
Yeah, I allready noticed that those springs look a bit dark-green if you look at them against the sun or there's a reflection on them.
Without a reflection on them, they are somehow black/brownish, I'm really not sure what color they really are, but i tend to say they're green.

[Merkel54]

It's a funny thing about this Sport/Hobby and the cool thing I think there are all kinds of ideas out there and that most of us want to help others in the Sport. If the the guy's Racing these unbelievable machines say they run the sway bars then I guess we should be to. I guess it's what's best with your own style of driving. I still think the article in Nitro Mag was a good referance though. I started this forum allmost a year ago when I was thinking of going from my MP-6 to the 7.5 for just this reason, to learn.

[moep]

Originally posted by go1d1e
Real nice looking Moep! do we get to see the body too?

Took some time to paint it - all I had was a 2" brush, so I had to add 6 Layers to get it opaque... :rolleyes:

http://www.moep.at/inferno_pics/inf_5.jpg
http://www.moep.at/inferno_pics/inf_6.jpg

[Poindexter]

Originally posted by DR.GT
Merkel54:

I have been told by almost all the top 7.5 racers that they use the sway bars on the car. Even Regan Leblanc (Kyosho Team Manager) says to use them. I run on a pretty rough track and I use them to stabilize the car.

:)

Yup--especially in the rear. Running a front stabilizer is debatable on all but blue-groove tracks (as it slows the steering down quite a bit and doesn;t let the suspension absorb bumps as fast). However, I did see a number of the Pros run them at the local track a couple of weeks ago....

[syme71]

Just won a Kyosho Inferno MP-7.5 on Ebay. Was wondering if anyone had a suggestion on what engine/pipe/servos to run?

I'm looking for a fast engine that is easy to tune. Tunability/Reliability is much more important to me than speed.

I run a Futaba radio and was wondering if their S9402 (111oz/.11 sec, metal gears) was sufficient for this buggy?

I'm also interested in hearing about any immediate upgrades that most people do.

Thanks!

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

syme71 - Congratulations on your new buggy - Im not sure about that servo, but a good engine fitting your description would be an OS RZ-V01B. As far as I know, it is quite a fast engine, and is one of the most reliable and easy to tune ones available. Typical of OS, you know:p

Moep- thanks for clearing that up, are the green ones a little soft? I have had people telling me they are too soft for larger jumps.... Oh, and very nice body BTW. :D

uDi

[Merkel54]

syme71,
That servo will be a perfect throttle/brake servo, if you use the OS motor which would be the engine for you, (very reliable and stable tuning) I would go with something faster and with higher torque, somewhere around 200. Your going to like your 7.5 :cool:

[moep]

uDi_NMT,

I couldn't drive the buggy yet, my WS7 is going kinda mad... :mad:
It ate one starter-wheel after another, there was something wrong with the P/S. My Shop told me to replace it, so I sent it back... haven't got it back yet.
I'll be on vacation for 14 days (in sardinia - dirt everywhere! weee!) so I ordered a V01B to have something to drive with...
Im going to test both engines and sell the not-so-good one on ebay. The V01B arrives tomorrow.
BTT: yeah, the springs seem to be pretty soft, but I'm not sure how soft they really are... I'll tell you that asap.

[DR.GT]

The black/greenish are soft springs, white are hard springs, blue are medium springs(most drivers use blue). You can also get brown MIP variable rate springs which work well on smoother tracks.

:)

[uDi_NMT ® ü l z]

Thanks moep/DR.GT - I know the green ones are the soft ones, im just wondering how soft they are.... After cashing out on the buggy, I wont have any money left for hopups - so I will have to make do with the kit as it is.

moep - Please do post here after you have tried the V01B, I would love to hear feedback on it. I would look at the WS7, but recently there was an RB pricerise here, and the WS7 costs more than twice the amount of the V01B:eek::eek: so that made my decision easy.

later
uDi

[adim_x]

hello there guys, i am a mugen man,but i still check out your forum to see whats up, i do know that i like the os vo1, it is really a nice motor, tons of torque, decent top end, i also have a ws7, i think i like the os better, the power is more usable, i have problems with my rb being too fast, the os has a super smooth power band, i just broke in my os last week, and it was making awesome power and i was only running about 220 degrees, im no super tuner, but it was running really nice, i would recommend that motor to anyone, the rb is also awesome, i just think the os is better for my driving skill

[moep]

uDi_NMT,

the V01B arrived today, I'll have to get it from the post-office, because I didn't have any money at home... ;)

It will come with a 4-shoe clutch and a 14t clutchbell, because the other stuff is on my WS7, which I haven't got back yet.
I don't want to buy two 13t bells, so I got the bigger one...
I heard that the V01B has plenty low-end grunt, so the 14t should do just fine.

The weather was the last to months perfect, now my engine arrived and it's raining like there's no tomorrow. :(

[Merkel54]

moep
I would really like to here how the OS motor works for you, I needed to rebuild my (sleeve/piston)RB this season and I debated for a long time on buying the OS instead of spending the money (160$) on parts for my RB after only one season. Now granted I may have ran my RB to hot a couple of times but one season before a rebuild seems kind of harsh. To bad about the rain, it's got to stop soom time. We have had just one of the hottest summers (in the 90's every day) I am in the Heating and AC Trade so I am really busy with this heat, Today the 4th. of July is the first day I will be able to get out there and run.
I pray that the terrorist are all caught before they can do anything bad here or anywhere!!!!


Everyone have a great day, Merkel54

[moep]

Originally posted by Merkel54

I pray that the terrorist are all caught before they can do anything bad here or anywhere!!!!


Everyone have a great day, Merkel54

Yeah, I really hope the same... :(

BTT: It stopped raining now, so I went out to break in the RZ-V01B... no luck. I've got no idea why, but it just won't fire up.

Contrary to the WS7, the RZ had no air-leaks at all, I also checked the tank, the fuel and pressure-lines, and tried several Glowplugs (A3, A5, #8) and igniters (1,2V SubC and a 2V lead-battery), preheating. No chance, it wont start.

Maybe the factory-needle setting is bad, or it's the fuel - 10% Nitro (guess thats not enough, my LHS didn't have anything else in stock) which was now about 4 day's in the tank.
I'll try it tomorrow again...

[adim_x]

hey moep, when i got my vo1 the needle setting were way off, i turned both high speed and low speeed needles all the way in, and backed each out about 3.5 turns, your motor should start, i had the same problem with mine, the high speed needle comes like six turn out , of the factory, i thought they would be preset but they arent, good luck, my os is the bomb