Truck moves, then stops, then moves.

[Martin Lee]

I have a new ESC, which I have tested, and it works fine. My motor is the stock Tamiya one. When I drive my King Blackfoot, it goes for about 10-15 seconds, then stops, and does nothing. The motor is not hot at all, nor the battery pack, but the ESC is a normal temperature. I can leave it for a while, and it may start to go after about 30 seconds, or I can pick it up, and put it down, and move it around, and it starts to go much sooner. I am off to the LHS tmrw, but they are plane guys, and only stock car stuff, they never look over them, as they dont know too much about them. What is wrong with this?

[InspGadgt]

Depending how old and how often you run your car you could just have a worn out motor. The Tamiya stock motors typically last a long time but the symptoms you have are that of a mabuchi motor with worn out brushes or super dirty com. You might try shooting out the motor with motor cleaner and re-oiling the bushings. But I think in the end it's time for a new motor.

[Martin Lee]

I think that super dirty com is the culprit.
My body doesnt cover the motor too well, and I run in VERY dusty conditions, so dusty you go for a walk, and end up with dusty ankles, when i run it, it gets stuck in the tree roots, and the wheels spin, kicking dust 3 feet into the air.
All of which takes me to my second question.
I do NOT want to break bits just yet, I still want to run without stripping gears. When I went to buy a new motor, they guy said not to, as tamiyas are made to run their best with the stock motors, and will go through tons of gears with a new motor. It is for a otherwise stock Tamiya King Blackfoot, I want it to go fairly fast for a noob, say 25 tops, but have a lot of torque, for bumps and tree roots in the forest I really need torque over speed.

[StalkerStang]

I have a TL-01 car thats all stock except for a motor (got from a friend) it says epic on it and has tons more torque and a little bit more top end, but I had a problem at my first race last Sunday. It would run fine and then all of a sudden it would stop, the sterring would work fine, but it wouldn't move. Then when it sat for like 20 seconds it would work again. Durring testing on our break I ran it without the body, and it ran a lot longer than it did with the body, leading myself a a couple guys trouble-shooting it thinking the capacitor was getting too hot. I took the risk of frying something and jumped it. Without the capacitor it ran fine, no trouble at all.

[Martin Lee]

Ummmmm, what is a capacitor?

[r/c car freak]

I have a King Blackfoot too and I have had a pilot 13turn double in it and nothing was stripped I have the stock closed enbel in it now but it is not much of a difference in speed with the two motor just about 3-4mph I would keep the stocker in there because somthing will break with a motor to make it go 25mph. If anything i would put a 27turn motor in it but absoulutly no difference in speed just a different powerband. the tamiyas make the torque you want just not the speed.

[InspGadgt]

The mabuchi motor he is running in his blackfoot comes with capacitors built in. The brushes are non-removable so cleaning the com is very difficult to do. The easiest way to clean a com in a closed endbell motor is to use a Q-Tip with come metal polish on it like Mothers or Brasso. Stick it through the vent hole on the side to where it touches the commutator. Then spin the shaft (usually easier with a pinion on) a few minutes. That'll clean most the dirt off. Make sure you spray it out with motor cleaner really well after your finished. Don't want any polish residue left on the com or the brushes.