HB Lightning RR Forum v1.0

[geo8498]

rear shot

[gkcontra]

Originally posted by rcharry
Hey, i fianlly got money to get my pro, its about time!!!
just a few questions, what fuel u guys use and how did u break in this motor?i think thats all for now!
thanks

I use 30% ODonnell fuel and this is the procedure I use for all of my motors: Get the car idling on car stand/starter box, In a large flat paved area run in ovals, never going above half throttle and not maintianing same rpms, vary it a bait, give it quick bursts just to keep it alive. take it pretty easy for the whole first tank. On the second speed up a little but still no full throttle. On the third tank you want to start your leaning out process a little bit. You can start hitting a few full throttle bursts now, but no longer than a few seconds long. On tank four, go for it, take it for a run and get your tuning setup.

[Big Weapons]

I don't think they sell the shock caps by themselves. You'll have to buy the shock bodies with them, I guess. I resprayed the stock body (the ink was so easy to remove). Check it out! (There's no engine. My 8 port is coming in the mail) Oh, and the black plastic things that come with the kit are mirrors. I mounted them as well.

http://12.234.58.60/images/rc/Bodies/body.jpg

[tallcracker]

now that i think about it they do look like mirrors.... but while i was staring at them for 10 minutes trying to figure out where the hell they went they didnt look so much like mirrors then :D

[slamminsam]

Originally posted by tallcracker
now that i think about it they do look like mirrors.... but while i was staring at them for 10 minutes trying to figure out where the hell they went they didnt look so much like mirrors then :D

I hear ya! It took me about an hour and three different sittings with the car to figure it out. LOL:)

[geo8498]

I figured it out by seeing an ad for the Kyosho 7.5 (I think that was the one) with the mirrors on the body. Then I ralso realized, and correct me if I'm wrong, the other piece in the same bag is the clip for the fuel filter.

[cbr74]

Correct, that's the fuel filter clip.

[geo8498]

Anyone have any opinion on the FUTABA S9304 servo?

I currently have HITEC 625's for both steering and throttle. The steering servo is twitching badly, and only getting worse. Manual said to clean the potentiometor, so I took it part to clean it and spray it. Worked for a while but it's doing it again. I already had a 625 go bad,so i'm thinking of switching brands this time.



FUTABA S9304

SPECS: Speed: .28 sec/60 deg @ 4.8V - .22 sec/60 deg @ 6V Torque: 55.5 oz/in @ 4.8V - 69.4 oz/in @ 6V Weight: 1.76 oz Length: 1.59" Width: .79" Height: 1.40" COMMENTS: A note on coreless motors A conventional servo motor has a steel core armature wrapped with wire that spins inside the
magnets. In a coreless design, the armature uses a thin wire mesh that forms a cup that spins around the outside of the magnet eliminating the heavy steel core. This design results in smoother operation and faster response time.

[cbr74]

The Hitec 6 series seem to have a fairly high failure rate. The 9 series are much better in my experience.

The S9304 is slow, overpriced, and doesn't have metal gears.

Spend a little more for a Hitec 925MG and get metal gears, .08 transit, and 103 oz-in. of torque. I run this servo on steering in my Ultra MBX and it does well.

In my Lightning Pro I run Air. 94358Z's. They are expensive, but they work awesome and are rock solid reliable. I don't regret spending the extra money for them.

[slamminsam]

I also run only the Airtronics servos in my MTX-2 and my Buggy, also in the steering for my Yok special and also in my Tmaxx. been using them for over 2 years and never had a failure.

[SVTMaxx]

I've never lost a Hitec 645-MG servo to failure. I HAVE lost (2) Hitec 625 servos to failure in touring cars and (6) Hitec digital servos to immediate failure (plug the servo in and it fries).

[k_bojar]

Wow...I guess I'm lucky - I've only have 1 Hitec (605MG) go bad, and that was after 2 years of use

The advantage to HiTec is their warrenty replacement policy :) Gotta love 'em

[HBLighting PRO]

Today I was racing on the hill next to my house & I broke the Front Hub Carrier. I cant find anywhere that has the replacement, and I was wonering if any of you guys knew where I could get a new one. If you look in the manual, the part # is C8011. I've included a picture of the broke piece and the carrier itslef.
Thanks.

[slamminsam]

i have them in stock
at Pottbellysrc

[cbr74]

Sam... do you have C8072 CV's?

[killer5cobra]

i am about to get into this hobbie because my frend jus bought a lightning and he paid more than i want to for one and i wuz wonderin if anyne knew where the best price for the pro version or the rtr version

[RokleM]

Step 1) Spell check :D

Here are my 2 cents. I NEVER like to steer someone away from the hobby, but if you're under the impression that it will JUST cost you $350 or so and you're done, you're highly mistaken. This hobby costs a considerable amount of money. You have breakage of parts (will happen even to the best drivers), parts that wear out over time (some as soon as a gallon), ongoing costs of fuel from $25-30 a gallon (and you will suck through a gallon quick), etc, etc.

I'm not steering you away from a Lightening (I have one on the way myself), but when I see posts like a KIT is too much money for me to spend, I like to remind people that the KIT is probably only half to a quarter of what you will spend on that vehicle at minimum during it's lifetime.

Just my 2 cents.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Good point.
I spent as much on radio gear as I did on the buggy.

If the cost of the kit gives you sticker shock... wait til you want to buy a faster engine, better exhaust, upgrade radio gear, etc..

[k_bojar]

Finally ran mine for the first time this weekend :D:D All I gotta say is this kicks f'ing ass :D:D:D

About the cost factor - the guys are right...If you think the $350 for a kit is expensive consider the cost for a Kyosho MP7.5 Kanai2 (considered top-of-the-line, best-of-the-best) is over $700 for the chassis alone then factor in the price of an engine ($200-300) and you're talking 3-4 times the cost of a Lightning

If I wanted to get into racing and didnt wanna drop a ton of $$, then the Lightning would be my first choice....Its cheap enough to justify buying and the machine's ability is more than adequate for the weekend racer or the basher on a budget :D

I make enuff money to buy a Kanai 2 and top of the line engine, but I opted for something good but less expensive so I can upgrade and throw in the good things and not have this "toy" costs over $2000 :D

[dasmoose]

Hey ya'll

I've been thinking about getting a 1/8 buggy and have had my eye on the lightning sence it was reviewed in the RCCA last year and would like to hear some thoughts about it. Yeah, I know I could look through all the posts here, but I'm on a slow dialup and don't have that much time on my hands.

What are the pluses so far? Has the buggy been holding up for you? Notice any weak points in the chassis setup? Found a good outlet for parts support yet? What kind of radio does it come with? (I can't seem to get info on that, is it AM or FM?) Lemme know what you think!

(Yes I know this is the lightning board, and everyone should say it's the greatest thing sence cheeze wizz in a can, but be honest, or as honest as you can. Let me know what to expect if I get one of these buggys)

[gkcontra]

dasmoose,

To sum it up:
Plusses
The quality and build are excellent
the alum. is the same as on other RTR, 6061 - you will replace some eventually
The out of the box handling is better than my previous 2 buggies - I had a Storm when I bought this car, sold the Storm after driving this one

Minuses
The wheels and the wing are the only weak spots, they will break
The radio is an AM made by Futaba, ditch it-get an XR3 or MX-3
Also pick up a hi torq servo for steering

[cbr74]

For anyone considering a Lightning.... get the Pro, get the Pro, get the Pro.

I can't recommend it enough. It'll save you money in the long run. The RTR comes with your typical bare bones AM radio and standard servos which you'll want to replace anyway.
For about the same money as the RTR, the Pro loses the radio gear and gives you:

double-decker front brake
soft compound racing tires
[7075] 3mm hard annodized aluminum chassis
3 shoe clutch
[6061] suspension holder [3 degree]
deluxe shock set [100% aluminum]
front & rear sway bar sets
front universal axles
center universal axles
4mm [7075] shock towers
[7075] front & rear suspension holders
[7075] knuckle arms
hard shock shafts
front & rear aluminum chassis braces

It's a lot more expensive to bring an RTR up to Pro status than it is to make a Pro RTR.

[gkcontra]

Thanks cbr - I should've put that in there, you get a WHOLE lot more with the PRO

[romulus]

yep, the PRO version is the best choice. I just got one as well after trying to decide whether or not get an OFNA 9.5 PBS or a Kyosho 7.5 Kanai II. After hearing about the new PRO version I decided to take a look and compare it with the RTR. When I saw that it includes, I got one because you get a lot more for the money. And since does not have radio gear it made my life easier because I don't want to have bunch of radios sitting around on my desk.
Now I had my buggy in pieces since I want to make sure that everything is in order like thread lock in the screws, tune the diffs with oil, etc.... Oh by the way, I found out that the diffs are already have some oil in it, about less than half filled. Hopefully I will have the chance to break in the engine this comming weekend.:D

[dasmoose]

Cool, thanks gkcontra, and cbr 74.

Does the pro come as a kit, or is it a rolling chassis that you just finish off with radio and engine?

What engines are good for the Lightning? I won't be racing or anything, but I don't want something that is underpowered. On the other hand I don't want to pay 400 bucks for a high speed setup that I won't be able to use completly. Got any ideas for a good strong torquey sport engine?

I have been planning on getting an MX3 either way (I live near a cell tower). So if I go RTR the radio will likely be tossed anyway.

Right now I'm undecided between the Lightning (leaning to the PRO now), the GS storm, or rebuilding my rustler with lots of alum and cf (and an MX3)

Thanks again guys

[cbr74]

The Lightning Pro is pre-built and includes an engine. It's not the most powerful engine around... but it is reliable and easy to tune.

[killer5cobra]

thanks for all the info u guys gave me but i have only one problem with it u stil didnt give me any good web sites with reasonably cheap prices

[cbr74]

Well.. ya didn't ask! LOL

MegaNitro (http://www.meganitro.com/nitrolightingrr.htm)

If PottBelly's still has them, they have the best price. But you have to call them. They don't have an on-line store.
PottBellys (http://www.pottbellysrc.com)

[k_bojar]

If you looking to contact Pottbelly's, shoot slamminsam a email (samlairson@lairson.com) - Sam owns the hobby shop and has the interaction with our distributors :)

[dasmoose]

Cool, thanks cbr, I guess it is the same setup that's in the RTR?

Well, good deal, that means that the pro won't end up costing quite as much as I had thought.

What was potbelly's selling them for (if he still has them?) anyone know?

Thanks again

[HBLighting PRO]

YOU CANT FIND PARTS!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
This weekend I broke the C8011 Front Hub Carriers & C8008 Read Wheel Hub!!!! I cant find anybody that has these parts....not my LHS or online. I really need to know if you guys know where I can get parts for this damn thing, or im just gonna sell it and get an ofna:mad:

[blemaxx]

potbelly's had the pro I think it was 350.00 to my house in CO oh and what kind of RX pack should I get for the pro? 5 or 4 cell and what shape??

[RokleM]

Delete

[tallcracker]

ok i cant seem to keep my carb on tightly. i tighten the carb set screw, even put thread lock on it and it comes loose within 1 run. i pulled the carb and i can see scars from where the holding pin has dug into the carb barrel. i cant understand what the deal is. should i just order a new holding pin and screw? has any1 else had this problem? thanks guys

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by HBLighting PRO
YOU CANT FIND PARTS!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
This weekend I broke the C8011 Front Hub Carriers & C8008 Read Wheel Hub!!!! I cant find anybody that has these parts....not my LHS or online. I really need to know if you guys know where I can get parts for this damn thing, or im just gonna sell it and get an ofna:mad:

Try shooting slamminsam an email (samlairson@lairson.com) - He runs the hobby shop at Pottbellys. We actually have a few lightning parts in stock right now, not sure if what you need is in or not...We usually have 2-3 day turn-around time when we order parts

dasmoose - Pottbelly's is selling the Pro and RTR for $335 plus shipping

[dasmoose]

Thanks k_bojar, it might be a week or two before I can order, but at least I know about how much.

[cbr74]

Like I've said several times... got to the source if you need parts. Ricky's R/C is in the same building as HotBodies and they have a toll free order line. They have a very knowledgeable and helpful tech guy too. 1-800-221-6053

BTW... I'm not trying to take away business from any other hobby stores... but Ricky's is in the best position to have any parts you might need.

[RokleM]

I just got my PRO last night. However, it is missing quite a number of parts. I have a voicemail left for Alvin at HotBodies.

I need to order a huge batch of parts also (I will be racing this thing competitively every weekend).

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Let me guess... missing the brake bias adjusters and the silicone switch cover. Anything else?

I'm sure you did... but just in case you didn't... make sure you thoroughly check both ends of the box... they stuff parts everywhere.

[RokleM]

I'm missing the diff gaskets (leaking), switch cover, one of the fuel clips for the gas tank, and only have 2 of the 4 for the servo mounts :(

Not sure about the brake bias adjusters... What/where are those?

Just got a call from Alvin (good guy), and my parts are on the way.

Going to call up Ricky's a little later after I determine what all in parts I need. I REALLY wish those guys had prices and stuff online.

BTW, the PRO shocks are built with 35 weight oil from the factory.

-RokleM

[RokleM]

Load of parts on their way from Ricky's :D Enough to fix just about anything I might break at the track. I'll have to order extra parts for the diffs and such later.

I'm VERY happy I got this thing. The replacement parts are VERY inexpensive.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Mar/20033189477297473030424.jpg

The silver knurlies. They are in the C8012 parts group.

[cbr74]

Yeah, parts are very reasonable, I bought some Lightning rear camber rods for my MBX (perfect fit) and they were less than $3.

I will recommend some things... C8072 CV's for the rear and C8046, 47, 48, and 49 which are the parts needed to do the quad brakes.

Also recommended: C8087 5X8 flanged bearings for the brake cams and C8088 6X10X3 bearings for the steering bellcranks. (stock are bushings)

[RokleM]

Yup, I'm missing those too :( Being that 3 of the parts I'm missing are from that C8012, I'm hoping he'll send the whole bag so I get those in addition.

I got the CVD's for the rear, bearings for the steering, filled the diffs with oil, etc.

I need to get the bearings for the brake cams however.

4 brakes in my opinion is overkill, heck 3 is. I could stop my 11 pound supermaxx with one, so I don't think I need that many on this vehicle ;) I think the stock setup should work for me for now.

This sucker is going to get a LOT of blue groove racing action (every single weekend), up against Kanai II's, 7.5's, MBX Works, etc. I will let you know how it holds up and how it compares.

I'll throw some pics up when I'm complete (hopefully tonight, becuase Wednesday night is nitro practice).

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Yep, he'll send you the entire C8012 parts group, that's how I found out about the knurled adjusters... I was missing servo mounts and he sent me the whole C8012 bag which had the adjusters in it that I didn't even know about before.

Quad brakes isn't for purposes of stopping power, it's to reduce fade under racing conditions. The larger surface area dissipates heat better and makes the brakes more consistent lap to lap and since most racers prefer to run a little rear bias so they can slide the rear end when they need to... dual brakes on the rear is a good idea.

[RokleM]

I wasn't aware of that. Seems to make sense. I'll see how it does then go from there.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Are you planning to race against all those Kanai's and such with the stock engine?

[RokleM]

There are a number of things I still need to do to really get it ready to rock:

1) Get the backplate to get rid of the pull starter (still trying to find one, read it's the OFN 52090)
2) Need to get some nice Ofna servo arms, and see if we can pursue those metal posts. I've got the Airtronics 94358Z for steering and a Futaba S9402, so I'm a little worried about torquing and twisting that radio tray.
3) Need to purchase a number of springs, diff parts, etc.

From what I've heard, the engine is EXACTLY the same as in the Savage (making sense since the same company that owns HPI owns HotBodies). The specs are 2.3 HP and 30,000 RPM, which isn't horribly bad. The OS RZ is only rated at 2.4 BHP at 32,000 RPM, so on the books it's not that much more powerful. Now if those numbers are actually accurate, still remains to be seen. More than likely I will end up getting a WS7 sometime in the future.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Dunno about the backplate.

I like the Ofna aluminum servo arms. OFN 10732 and 10742.

The radio tray posts are in the works.

Yes, it's the same as the Savage engine, but no way does it make 2.3hp. It's a reliable, easy tuning engine but it doesn't even have the oomph of your garden variety 4 port Hyper although it's close.

I just ordered a Paris Picco XP .21 for mine... should do the job nicely.

[bubbastump]

whooooo hoooo track almost done my lightning cleared quad have a looksie
http://groups.msn.com/mdrcracing/shoebox.msnw

[dasmoose]

Hey Bubbastump, when did you change the layout of the track, and where are you putting the quad?

My in-laws live in pasidena (sp) and I took my rusty to that track a few times last year.

I still get a kick out of telling my buds here in NC about the guy that jumped the fence corner down by the triple last summer.

How has the lightning been running on that track up there?

Next time I go see the in-laws I'll have to make sure I make the races.

[bubbastump]

still in process of changin track will be open in a few weeks
the quad is close left to where the drivers stand was
stand is goin to be 2 ft+ higher and centered
u better come visit in laws to make a few races
http://www.pasadena-offroad.com/index_001.htm
there is the new site
hope to see u this season and come up for some roar races

[slamminsam]

I installed the blue posts from the inferno mp6 for the radio tray. the tray is solid now. the Kyosho parts fit perfectly. I also changed the motor to the new O.S. .21 RZ-V01B (P). It has a lot more yank to it than the stocker.

[cbr74]

Crono radio tray posts will fit also. Two things about the Kyo's and the Crono's... they're overpriced and they aren't available in purple. :D

[romulus]

I think that the HPI makes some of those aluminum posts. I am sure that is the same height but I have to confirm that. Maybe someone have their car on hand can confirm the stock post length. Anyway, the part # is A155 (silver) or A790 (purple to match with the rest of the purple stuffs). The radio posts are 30mm long.
I did downloaded the manual from the Inferno MP 7.5 and after comparing it with the HB manual it is almost the same but more explanations. Some parts where changed but all the working parts like the diffs are the same. So, I added the missing brake component to make a quad brake system. I got the brake disk, calipers, and the pads for about 15 bucks. The set has it for both front and rear but I just needed one set. At least I have extra parts for raining days... oh the kyosho part # is IF-134 and IFW-36 (longer screws)

[cbr74]

Lightning posts are 28mm.

[romulus]

Thanks cbr74,
A little of dremel can fix the height. I am thinking getting the purple ones. Oh I think those are for $8. You get 4 post.

[RokleM]

Might be worth a try. I was seeing some major flex last night when I was breaking the engine in last night. I still need to pass another 3-4 before practice tonight so I can run the heck out of it.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

For the dual rear brakes from HB you need C8046, 47, 48, and 49.
Cost about $11.

[RokleM]

Starter boxes work great with the stock engine by the way. I'm waiting on the delivery of my Ofna chrome top box, so I'm using my Ofna black 1/10th scale box. It has no issues starting the engine. I am however a little concerned with the lack of compression that the engine has. Everything appears to be nice and snug tight but compression is no where as brutal as most new engines.

Still trying to figure out if you can put a non pull start on the back. No one seems to be 100% sure what part might fit correctly. Might just call Hot Bodies and see what they say.

-RokleM

[Mr331]

I have been looking at the Hotbodies buggy's for a while now. I can't find them on line. There is http:www.hotbodiesonline.net , but that is under construction. Is there a different site? I have spent a lot of time reading through this thread and some one mentioned there was a place that had the parts and parts numbers on line. Anyone know what site that is? Thanks in advance.:)

[Mr331]

Originally posted by tallcracker
HOTBODIES HAS THE NEW WEBSITE UP AND IT HAS ALL THE PARTS LISTINGS, AS WELL AS ALL THE FACTORY HOP UP PARTS! all you have to do is find what part you want, call ricks hobby and they will check status and send it out right away. they sell the kit tires, that worked pretty well IMO, for 10.99 a pair, not too bad. the front chasis stabilizer is only 4.99 i was going to order but the tires are out of stock and the UPS ground frieght is 7.99. i am going to call back in a week, get the 3 shoe racing clutch, chasis stabalizer, and a new pair of rubber.

to find the parts click on "products"
then "lightning RR"
then scroll to the bottom and click on "lightning rr replacement parts"

What is the URL for this web site?

[gkcontra]

The site was hotbodiesonline.net, when the pro came out they took down the site and put up the Under construction sign. Unfortunately I don't have the parts page in my History anymore so I can't get back to it.maybe tall or someone else has it bookmarked.

[RokleM]

Here is that link you guys were looking for:

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightparts.htm

-RokleM

[gkcontra]

Thanks Rokle, I tried everything I could think of: lightningparts, lightningrr, lightningrrparts, etc.

[RokleM]

Here is my initial review of the HB Lightning RR:

I have driven a number of buggies, and as a matter of fact I raced a buddies Mugen Works last weekend.

The initial break in of the engine went very well. It turns over VERY easy, in fact I do have a little concern about the lack of compression right off the bat. Most engines should be very tight during the break in, but this is relatively easy to turn over. My 10th scale box easily started the engine. The first 5 tanks went very well, increasing power slightly as I went.

At this point I went to my weekly practice at the local track www.crcrc.com (http://www.crcrc.com). It's a very tight, well packed, blue groove track, about 100x60 feet. I ran the same mounted pink taper pins that we run on our trucks, and modify to work on 1/8th scale rims. I put another 7 tanks through the vehicle, letting it cool between runs. It is increasing power slightly, but I still hope for quite a bit of more low end. The engine seems to have the RPMS, but it takes quite a while to get there. Hopefully this will change with time.

As for the comparison between the Lightning and the Mugen Works I drove last weekend, it was almost the exact same feel. The Mugen had a well broken in OS RZ, so obviously it had a little more umph on the get go. The only differences were 1) There was a slight slide in the rear when taking tight quick corners, and 2) The stock springs feel a little weak. Other than that, the feel was almost identical to this $1000+ vehicle.

The following mods/additions have occurred so far:
1) Airtronics 94358Z for steering
2) Futaba S9402 for throttle
3) Refilled the shocks with 50 weight oil
4) Filled the diffs with front-7 center-10 and rear-3
5) Put bearings in the steering

So to summarize, a AMAZING buggy for the price, can be RACED at this point with decent results (will be racing this weekend), and hopefully the engine will result in a little more low end with break-in.

-RokleM

[HBLighting PRO]

couldn't we just look in the manual too. and the site isnt up, I have it set as my homepage and every day, it's down. But, if you know the URL, you can get into there website like this http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/tuneing.htm there are other various other Hot Bodies sites like this, its just a matter of finding them

[gkcontra]

Rokle, what fuel are you running, I have ODonnell 30% in mine and it does make the bottom end quite a bit better.

[RokleM]

Trinity Platinum 30%... the best! ;)

Yeah, again, I have less than 15 tanks through, so I'm still really in the break in process. It might open up a bit more later It has the RPM's, but it takes almost the full 100 foot straight to get to them. Most engines will get there MUCH quicker.

-RokleM

[rcharry]

Hey, HBlightning PRO, u should post more URL's like that, that one was extreamly helpful!

[HBLighting PRO]

lol...thanks Rcharry

[rcharry]

No really put more up!
hehe
thanks

[HBLighting PRO]

k, i'll do more research for ya lol

[HBLighting PRO]

well....didnt find much but came up with this?


http://www.extremercmotorsports.com/Hot-Bodies-Dirt-Demon.htm
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/18engine.htm
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightweb.htm


has anybody seen the monster truck???? that thing looks huge, my brother just got a Titan (ofna) and I thought that was big, but im wrong!:eek: :eek:

[cbr74]

You put 50 wt. in the shocks? Isn't that a bit thick? Stock is 35 isn't it?

Alvin the HB tech recommended 5k/10k/1k for the diffs... which I ordered, but 5k was out of stock. :mad:

My LHS has zero 1/8 support... where can I order some 5k diff oil?

[RokleM]

It all depends on what surface you're running on. 45 weight would be ideal for the track I run on, but I was out of that. 5/10/1 would be a little too loose for me, so I stiffened it up a little. 7/10/3 is the standard that they guys run at our track.

I picked up my oil from my LHS. A _few_ places have it online, but it's most of the time out of stock :( tower, stormer, etc.

Do have a question though... has anyone tried springs from other manufactures? What fits these shocks? Kyosho? Mugen?

-RokleM

[gkcontra]

Kyosho Blue springs will work well.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by RokleM
It all depends on what surface you're running on. 45 weight would be ideal for the track I run on, but I was out of that. 5/10/1 would be a little too loose for me, so I stiffened it up a little. 7/10/3 is the standard that they guys run at our track.

I picked up my oil from my LHS. A _few_ places have it online, but it's most of the time out of stock :( tower, stormer, etc.

Do have a question though... has anyone tried springs from other manufactures? What fits these shocks? Kyosho? Mugen?

-RokleM

I know for a fact the Kyosho MP7.5 springs fit the Lightning :) Kyosho's blue seem to be a little stiffer than the kit lightning, but I have tried to be sure...SlamminSam should know - he has the Kyosho blues on his :)

[RokleM]

http://mad-skillz.com/RokleM-HB-Lightning-RR-2.jpg

-RokleM

[k_bojar]

Purdy :) So nice and clean...Mine used to look like that :D and I havent even raced mine yet - just a slow leisurely break-in and a short hop around our new track under construction :)

[cbr74]

RokleM... ah come on now, let's see a current pic with that V01B in there.

[romulus]

Very nice!:D I hope that this weekend dosen't rain on me so that I can break in the engine. I am planing to use O'donnel 20% By the way, I put those HPI purple post on my car and it is pretty nice. It matches with the rest of the car. yeah I have to cut the post 2mm.

[RokleM]

cbr74, I'm still running the stock engine.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Oops... It was Sam that has the V01B in his Lightning. :o

Well, this weekend I'll have pics of mine with a Paris Picco XP .21 strapped in it. :D

[tallcracker]

hey guys
its been a while since i stopped in so i thought i would just see whats up. i havent had much time due to school, work and girls but i didnt magane to finish off my third gallons of gas. so soon the factory engine will be running on its 4th gallons with still decent compression.
the lack of low end is kinda getting on my nerves, and i am considering running the bottom end a little lean to compensate.

i think the hotbodies site has been down for too long. they should realize this car is still making a name for itself and to shut down the place were potnetial buyers can get valuble information wasnt a bright idea.

i hope to get out and turn some laps tuesday of next week and i will probably get some new tires also while i am at the track.

[cbr74]

I agree, they really need to get that site back up.

[RokleM]

I agree, they are doing a great disservice to themselves by not getting even more word out there about a vehicle that everyone is ranting and raving about.

Tall, how has the engine changed since break in? Have you seen an increase in low end? Top end? How much fuel did it take before it seemed to really open up (if it did)?

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Might want to look and see if the header could use a little porting. I'm running an Ofna 10077 exhaust and I don't really see a problem with the low end. The Lightning pipe is very similar to the 10077 but maybe the stock header is a bit restrictive? Just guessing, but it's woth a look.

[cbr74]

just tested my own theory... the opening of the stock header at the flange is about 1.2mm smaller than the 10077 header so it could stand to be opened up a little.

Might as well throw up a pic. of mine... new engine will be here tomorrow.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Mar/20033201671292812797192.jpg

:D

[Mr331]

Sorry to ask, but I'm new to nitro. What is the purpose of the zip ties on the top of the head? Just curious. This is a great forum. I can't wait to get my car.

[RokleM]

You will see this on vehicles where you have the chance of scratching and beating up the top of an engine head. If you slap 4 zip ties on there, they will take the brunt of a hit and break or wear before scratching up your engine. This is mainly for on-road running. If you're off-road, you don't have much use for it.

-RokleM

[HBLighting PRO]

since were all posting pictures of our cars.....heres mine with a broke (home made) aluminium wing and a broke rear hub carrier!:D

[tallcracker]

Originally posted by RokleM
Tall, how has the engine changed since break in? Have you seen an increase in low end? Top end? How much fuel did it take before it seemed to really open up (if it did)?

-RokleM

actually it has been a pretty consistent performer. i have never noticed a increase on the low end while running it with a thick smoke trail and temps around 230-250. but i have run this engine pretty lean, like around 270*F on a relatively cool 60-65 degree day, and that really made the engine get up and go much faster on the low end. this isnt something i do often but alot of hotter motors were at the track and i wanted to see what i could do with a little extra power. it was very much a night and day difference.
i suggest if your not too worried about this motor and its life to go ahead and run it lean and see what happens. it didnt seem to hurt my engine and i ran about half a gallon through it that day.

[k_bojar]

Hey all...Pottbelly's just got a new shipment of Lightning Pros and a butt load of spare parts :)

Contact slamminsam at slairson@direcpc.com for pricing...Ask around Pottbelly's has one of the best prices :)

Man - I cant wait to run my buggy again :) Or should I say, I cant wait to finish breaking mine in :) and then running the snot outta it :)

I'll let you all know how mine fares as a weekly racer too :)

[cbr74]

This is mainly for on-road running. If you're off-road, you don't have much use for it

I disagree. All my running is done off-road and on my sandy, rocky terrain the engine head needs all the protection I can give it.


Much to my surprise... my LHS actually had some 5K diff oil. So now I'm set... I've already done the front diff with the 5K and threw in some BBB rubber sealed bearings while it was apart. Shielded bearings just don't last long in the sand and decomposed granite that I primarily run on.

HBLightingPro... looks like some new tires are in your near future. LOL

[cbr74]

Look what the nice man in the big brown truck brought me:
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Mar/20033217315771509757994.jpg
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Mar/20033216634809426551407.jpg
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Mar/20033217219573572278356.jpg

Hard to see with the glare... but it's serial numbered.

Now hopefully the baby will stay asleep long enough for me to get it installed.

[RokleM]

Yes, let me clarify, if you're running in gravel and rocks off-road, then it can come in handy ;)

Engine looks good. Let us know how it does!

-RokleM

[Mr331]

Can someone pleas clarify something for me? I will be getting the Lightning Pro. I know the physical parts difference and the fact it does not come with a radio and servos. Does it come with any of the other extras that the rtr version does? things like fuel bottle and glow plug igniter. I just wanna order it all at one time. Thanks.

[cbr74]

Mr331... It does not include a fuel bottle or a glow ignitor. It does include a glow plug, although it's always a good idea to pick up extras.

A 5 cell NiMh hump style receiver pack and suitable charger is also highly recommended.


I got the flywheel, clutch, bell, and engine mounts installed. Only ran into one minor issue... the 14mm engine mount screws were a little long for the Picco, I couldn't quite get them in past the fins on the engine case. Solution: use 12mm screws instead.
The flywheel and clutch went on with no probs., I did add one thin shim to take out the end play in the bell.

I would drop it in right now, but since it's apart anyway, I'm taking the opportunity to pull the center diff for fluid and bearing upgrades.

Thankfully, my son is still blissfully asleep.

[cbr74]

Everything's looking good... except the weather... that's not looking too good. But I got the engine installed and the diffs filled.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Mar/20033217111929076519158.jpg

[HBLighting PRO]

opps!

[HBLighting PRO]

Hey CBR...
I'd get a new air filter to protect your investment:D just get the 15mm HPI, its nice at doing its job and its inexspensive too! because, you all know i fried my stock engine with that stock air filter,but other than that...beatiful CBR:D :D :D

[HBLighting PRO]

[i]

HBLightingPro... looks like some new tires are in your near future. LOL [/B]

I have a feeling that alot of parts are in my future, im gonna get the guys at my brothers work to CNC me some hub carriers out of aluminium, but yea....i need tires badly.

[cbr74]

That's not the stock filter, it's an Ofna chrome top. I run Ofna filters on all my .21's. The stock HB filter is pretty much the same as the Ofna. The key is in the oil. I use K&N oil on all my air filters and it works extremely well.

[HBLighting PRO]

Yeah...my brother has that on his titan.....i've heard good things about the K&N oil, i think i'll pick up some, but once again nice!:D

[cbr74]

Interesting.... this Picco has 7 ports in the sleeve not counting the exhaust port. According to Paris' website... it's only supposed to have 6. Weird, huh?

[cbr74]

Well, break in wasn't too bad. Had a few flame outs, but no biggie.

This engine has an amazing amount of low end. Just a blip of the throttle sends the rear end around. Top end isn't that great right now, but I haven't started tuning for power yet and I may want to look into an exhaust that's more top end oriented (063)
With the way the power curve seems at this point, I think it's definitely under geared. Once I get it tuned in, I think I'll step up a tooth on the bell.

So far I'm really pleased with this engine.

[tallcracker]

hey guys
i recently got my xxx-nt and i am getting that ready for the racing season. i am considering selling my lightning as i dont think i will have the time and money to maintain and race 2 cars. the losi is pretty much race ready and the lightning still needs more money put into it before it is competitive (ie engine, servos, starter box).
like i said at this point i am just considering this, but i was wonder how much you all think i can get for this car. i will list all the parts i have added and i would sell it with the original futaba radio and servos. these are the additional parts i have added.
-3 shoe clutch
-front and rear alum chasis stabilizer
-4mm front shock tower
-3mm back
-crowd plezer body
-fuel filter
-venom fail safe
-7.5 rear wing
i have rear arms, suspension blocks for front and rear, foam inserts, and shock booties all still in the parts bags that i would include. what does every1 think is a good asking price?

[RokleM]

My update:

Today I pulled off an 8th in the A main at the local track (quite an accomplishment with the talent we have), proving to everyone that it is a race worthy vehicle. Definitely some respect being paid.

The engine has about a 1/3 to 1/2 a gallon through it and is finally starting to show _some_ life. I'm debating getting a pipe that adds a little more low end. The top end still seems to be the same, but the low end still isn't developing as well as I would like. The stock appears to be baffled, and I wonder if there is something I can do to modify it some.

I did blow up my wing during the main. I got hacked on accident by another driver in the air over our large tabletop. I went into a little roll, and the thing exploded into 5 pieces. I had to run the next 7 minutes with only my left side of the wing on. You have no idea how much a wing affects your driving until you only have it on one side. Every time I got speed or went airborne, I would be pulled down and to the left. Guess it's a good thing I already have that Ofna tri level wing ready to go.

The only other piece I snapped was the front bumper. I was coming off a jump and someone hopped a pipe and cracked me right in the front. Luckily one of the guys had an extra Kyosho bumper. Unfortunately it is not a 100% fit. I had to do a little modification, and it's pretty loose, but at least I have some protection there.

On a side note, I'm pretty pissed off at Ricky's RC in California. They definitely have not persuaded me to do business with them in the future. I called up early Tuesday morning (I mean, almost first thing for them, I'm in Ohio) and placed an order for $80 worth of stuff. I paid for 2nd day shipping because ground would take at least a week to get here from California. Well, even if they waited till Wednesday to ship it (giving them 2 full days to pack and ship), I STILL would have had it by Friday for race day. Well I have yet to see the package. 4 business days, a very costly shipping, and no product. ... irritation... level... rising....

Tallcracker: I'm the opposite. I have a drake XXX-NT that I raced all season that is sitting on a shelf because I love running my 1/8th so much more.

That's my ramble for the night ;)

-RokleM

[soslo]

Tallcracker..
You have mail! :)

[RokleM]

Grrrr... morons at Ricky's shipped it via ground, which takes a MINIMUM of 5 business days from California to here. At least they credited me for the shipping. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

-RokleM

[tallcracker]

hey dont feel bad, rickys or the post office lost my parts. the money has been out of my account for 45+ days and still no parts at my door step. they filed a claim with the post service apparently and i still have yet to hear a thing.

[maury curtis]

Could anyone tell me what the difference between C8081 and C8081-1 for my lightning RR ?

thanks-
Maury

[gkcontra]

The 8081-1 is 7075 machined alum. instead of cast

[maury curtis]

Thanks for your reply gkcontra

Now how does this affect the buggy ? Are they just for looks or what ?

Maury

[gkcontra]

The 7075 are much stronger and by machinihg they do look a lot nicer.

[slamminsam]

They are stronger.

[cbr74]

C8081 cast aluminum $6

C8081-1 CNC 7075 aluminum $60

[RokleM]

Well it looks like the moron's at Ricky's actually charged me AGAIN for shipping instead of a credit. DO NOT do business with these clowns, take it somewhere else.

On a good note, my parts should be at home when I get there (5 days late).

-RokleM

[tallcracker]

Originally posted by RokleM
Well it looks like the moron's at Ricky's actually charged me AGAIN for shipping instead of a credit. DO NOT do business with these clowns, take it somewhere else.

On a good note, my parts should be at home when I get there (5 days late).

-RokleM

they haven't given me really any problems until my last shipment, but i think the post office carries the blame there. it does sound like you have been screwed, but its kinda a monopoly they have seeing as how very few places carry these parts (just 3 shops i know of). not too many options for those of us they have bent over. i just hope they get this mess together and for the future pay more attention to billing and shipping details so we are not left out in the cold. luckily these were parts i didn't really need, just parts i wanted.

on another note i broke my pull starter a few days ago and then i just got mad at my car and donated all the electronics to my NT. i am thinking about putting the standard radio back into the lightning so i will atleast be able to run both cars at the track.
i will probably re-string my pull starter as it broke at the very end of the cord, and just run it as is. ok off to class i go, later guys
-tall-

[tallcracker]

o yeah and 1 more thing.... we had our own little forum under "HOT BODIES", then they took it down and put us with MISC. vehicles, thats pretty messed up. hotbodies is soon to have 3 vehicle out. the lightning, that onroad car and then a large monster truck, i think our own little area wasnt too much to ask. :mad:

[blemaxx]

time for my rant! I got a pro sent out the 14 should have had it on the 20 but then the snow hit. 8 feet so no ups for a few days. I called on Mon. They told me it would go out today then I see UPS and not buggy! I called again and now they are saying they may not know what area it is in on Mon. it was 10 minn froim my house today LOST maybe. What Brown does for me. :(

[dasmoose]

Yeah Tall,

I posted a gripe about that in the new thread/request string at the top of the vehicles fourm, but haven't seen anything from it yet. Everyone get over there and post about how we want our own HB fourm back!

DM

[Casey]

Just received my new Lightning Pro. Won't be looking like this for long. I already washed the paint off the body and ordered up a set of green Kyosho 10-spokes and a Kyosho wing. Can't wait to see how it compares to my Hyper 7.

[HBLighting PRO]

k, you guys should know this, won't this part work my ours cars, my bro says it wont, but im pretty sure it will! http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD32&P=Z

[romulus]

I believe that it should. I think that I mentioned that I printed out the MP 7.5 manual to see what is different from that car and HB. As far as I know it is pretty much the same dimension. Even the bearing sizes are the same. If you don't belive me, you can go to kyosho website and download the PDF file for the 7.5 By the way, I finally got my lightning runing. it handles really good. I only have few hard time trying to start a brand new engine. It seems that the engine have a lot of high end torque but not much low end. Maybe later on I will upgrade my engine; the new orion wasp .25 engine seems promising.

[geo8498]

It's seems to me that the board has slowed down since they moved us into the misc category.

Well, just to keep things going, here's a new picture of my lightning. I finally got some debonder. After a blistering (literally) night of yanking, I removed the tires from my broken stock wheels and put them onto some new Proline dish wheels.

[cbr74]

XTM gets a forum but we get lumped into misc. vehicles? That seems just a bit umm... WRONG.

[blemaxx]

look what I got from Pottbellys today now if the snow would melt

[HBLighting PRO]

oh pretty..........if you get really desperate, run it in your garage:D

[cbr74]

Another Lightning Pro joins the ranks... excellent.

[nad138]

Originally posted by cbr74
XTM gets a forum but we get lumped into misc. vehicles? That seems just a bit umm... WRONG.

cbr74, i'm an xtm owner but I still hang around the lightning threads...cheers. :)

[blemaxx]

Yes I gave into the 1/8 buggy thing! I also agree we need to be on the main page again I came by last week and thought the forum was gone for good till I saw the other vehicle forum not cool:mad:

[cbr74]

cbr74, i'm an xtm owner but I still hang around the lightning threads...cheers.

My condolensces. LOL

Seriously though... my point is... we have more posts about the Lightning than the Exterminator ever thought of having.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by romulus
I believe that it should. I think that I mentioned that I printed out the MP 7.5 manual to see what is different from that car and HB. As far as I know it is pretty much the same dimension. Even the bearing sizes are the same. If you don't belive me, you can go to kyosho website and download the PDF file for the 7.5 By the way, I finally got my lightning runing. it handles really good. I only have few hard time trying to start a brand new engine. It seems that the engine have a lot of high end torque but not much low end. Maybe later on I will upgrade my engine; the new orion wasp .25 engine seems promising.

Actually there are some subtle differences between the 2 machines. And only the first 15 to 19 steps (I forget) are the same - after that they go in different directions :) The biggest differences I noticed were the rear camber links (Lightning's are longer); the size of the screw in the diff housings (Lightning's are 3.5mm vs 4mm for Kyosho) and I think there was 1 or 2 other ones

But yea these 2 are very closely similar :D Guess if you cant beat a winning design, might as well copy it :D:)

[Justin Phillips]

Well so I have decided after reading this entire post to jump in and get a Lighting. I worked it out barter is a local company so it is only a lightning not a lightning pro. Altough I have not gotten it yet I have been researching the important hop-ups for it. I know this issue has been discussed a lot, but I have never seen a real answer. What Kyosho parts will work on the lighting and which ones wont. The part I the most interested in is Kyosho's Front and rear Anti-bending rods. Will these work on the lighting. I am actually looking that the racers endge version for the 7.5. Also with the kyosho shock towers work? I gave Ricky's a call today, but was very un-impressed with them. Also has anyone had trouble with their diffs and race engines. I have talked to a couple of local people who have stripped their diffs when running a race engine (RB Concepts). I know there are several of you who have changed out their engines and I wanted to get your feedback. I have been told I should shim the diffs. I have no idea how to do that, and what kind of shims I should use. Also if anyone has time to to let me know what they feel are the most important upgrades to make on this thing along with part number I will be in your debt. Thanks!


Justin

[cbr74]

I asked the guys at Racer's Edge and was told none of their 7.5 parts are compatible with the Lightning.

The most important hop-up for the RTR is the Pro shocktowers in my opinion. C8073-2 and C8075-2

The Pro anti-bending rods (chassis stiffeners) are nice also. C8120-1 and C8121-1

I'm running a Paris Picco 7 port XP .21 and haven't had any diff problems thus far. I have them filled with diff oil.. 5K front, 10K center, 1K rear.

My diffs were shimmed perfectly form the factory, so I didn't need any additional shims.

[gkcontra]

The 7.5 chassis braces will not fit, I tried a set.

[SVTMaxx]

*snickers.......*.....so far, damage to my Lightning....0. Damage to OFNA 9.5 MBX buggies in my club....3 out of 4 with broken arms...those 7075 parts on my Lightning just don't want to bend for some reason...:p

[cbr74]

I had the same problem... my Lightning lands crossed up and doesn't care. My Ultra MBX lands crossed up and busts an a-arm and tie rod. Go figure.

[blemaxx]

hey what's up with HB I didn't get the same parts with my car as every one maybe it was just bad packing? Well I should have them by Mon and then the snow sould be gone:) It's so hard to just look at my first 1/8 buggy just sit and not run it snow snow go away it's spring!!

[RokleM]

Sweet, the forum is back up and running.

Newest update: I dropped a WS7 into the Pro, but I've got an issue I need to look at tonight. Either the clutch isn't hooking up, the flywheel has come loose, or my tires were just spinning on the ground. I got tons of speed, but only if I slowly accelerated. If I just jammed the throttle it would rev really high, but go slow.

My other issues is, I have TONS more power than the stock engine, but I can't get this WS7 to go over 160 degrees ;)

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Aww.... can't get over 160... I'm so sorry for you. :p

Engine revving but not gettin anywhere... sounds like flywheel or clutch.

[RokleM]

Heh, actually it bugs me quite a bit. I don't like running it so cold. It's not good for the engine.

Yeah, that was my initial assessment also. You have a pretty high powered engine cbr74, did you run into that? Are you running your shoes leading or trailing? Still using the stock soft 3 shoe setup?

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Pretty high powered is right, this engine is obnoxious on the low end. I can torque steer the rear end pretty much at will.

I'm running the stock flywheel, stock 3 shoe clutch, no slipping issues here. I'm running them trailing.

I seriously need to gear up and take advantage of all the low end power. 1/4 throttle or more roasts all 4 tires with the stock gearing.

[RokleM]

Well I have a hint at this point. It seems as if the front tires are spinning like mad, while the back are stationary. However, when I pick it up, all 4 spin.

If I put the front 2 tires on the ground and goose it, it tries to jerk out of my hand because the front 2 are getting traction. If I put the rears on the ground, I feel little movement.

Really weird. It seems to be like my old T-Maxx issues, where a screw has come out of the rear yolk so the drive shaft isn't spinning in the rear. However, the all 4 DO spin when I pick it up.

Very weird. I've torn down the rear diff and it seems ok. I have to run out for a bit, but I guess I'll tear into the center diff next.:rolleyes:

-RokleM

[RokleM]

Alright guys, need a little help. Did a full tear down of the drive shafts, diffs, etc last night. I could NOT find any issues. I'm stuck here.

What would make my Lightning exhibit the following:
1) All 4 wheels rotate and accelerate while holding the buggy in the air (normal)
2) With only the front down, the buggy almost jerks out of my hand due the fronts getting traction (normal)
3) With only the rear down, I can give it gas and it just sits there (abnormal)

I'm running 7/10/3, so a LOT of the power should be going to the rear tires.

This started about half a tank through my first run with this engine (had 10 tanks through the WS7 before I bought it). I heard nothing snap, no handling issues, nothing. It just hits high RPM's, but doesn't go anywhere fast (maybe 1/4th the speed it should).

Any ideas, help me out. I have practice tonight, but may not make it if I can't figure this out :confused: :(

-RokleM

[cbr74]

Assuming your diffs are built correctly.. ie: all C8022 pins in place. Your problem is at the rear diff joint cup C8068 (page 3 of the manual.)

Make sure the set screw is against the flat spot of the input shaft/pinion gear C8030 and is tight.

My guess is... the set screw may be tight, but it's tightened against the round part of the shaft, causing it to slip under load.

[RokleM]

Nod, I only glanced at those last night. I will have to double check them again. Does anyone have links to a digital manual, as I have yet to find one? I have my paper manual at home.

-RokleM

[Justin Phillips]

Anyone have any advice on a good air filter to upgrade to?

[cbr74]

There's nothing wrong with the stock air filter IMO. Just oil it with K&N air filter oil and it's good to go.

[RokleM]

May have found it...

How far down do you screw the small screw in the side of the diff? (4x4mm). On my rear diff I can turn one side and the other side doesn't hardly move. If I tighten that screw down just a tad, it starts moving. Am I onto it or just something else?

-RokleM

[cbr74]

That set screw is so you can remove the drive pin C8022 from the diff case.

[RokleM]

Man I'm irritated... still doesn't work.

I can remove the pin without the screw being pulled.

This is so difficult to diagnose, because everything works as it should in the air. I'm completely baffled. I've just never seen something like this before in all my years.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

If you hold the diff case and turn one side and the other side doesn't turn then something internal in that diff isn't right.

[bubbastump]

i just rebiult my front diff and noticed the same thing
i left it in to where it locks front diff but gonna rebuild rear tommorow and leave it a tad bit looser
all the 4wd touring cars lock front diff so what is it gonna hurt to try? just some broken parts

[RokleM]

Yeah, I'm doing my second full tear down, am almost finished, and haven't found anything yet :mad: :mad: :mad:

I'm so missing something here. Never been this irritated at an RC in my life. I NEVER have major technical issues, and this one is completely baffling me.

Can anyone verify or disprove what I'm seeing? I've never tested this before (hold front on ground, gets traction, hold rear on ground, no traction). Everything seems to be in fine condition as far as I can see. If I'm wrong and it's not the driveshafts, it's got to be the clutch or something.

-RokleM

[bubbastump]

sounds like center diff or rear diff is gonna need some work
try to turn the screw on rear diff for the pin in a lil more it may have come loose

[RokleM]

I don't follow bubba. You mean the screw that holds shaft to the diff? I've checked that already? cbr said that screw on the diff case was just to get the pin in.

-RokleM

[bubbastump]

but if u turn it in more it will tighten diff try it and see what happens try a push or a roll with engine off

[HBLighting PRO]

Get the HPI 15mm, I use ut and it works GREAT

[Justin Phillips]

I have another newbie question. How exactly to you fill the diffs with oil? I want to fill mine up. Thanks!

[bubbastump]

simple putt it out take the 4 screws out open it clean the vaseline lookin stuff out and pour it in then close it back up
i use the universal setup ft center rear is 3000 7000 1000

[Kenny123]

I was wondering if you could help me I just bought some used tires and wheels, but I don't like the wheels. How do I take the tires off the wheels, what can remove the glue?

[k_bojar]

Hey Rolke - I know this may be a really stupid thought but....Are you sure you re-installed the diffs correctly?? I know I put my rear diff in backwards and kinda had the same issue - this I noticed I was a dumbass and had the diff in backwards :)

Just a suggestion

[geo8498]

Kenny123,

I did that with a set of my tires. I used dbonder from Great Planes. It loosened it up so I could pull them off with a good set of pliers. Be careful not to rip them though. Took me a full evening of soaking and gently tugging them free. All depends on how well they are glued on.

Here's a link

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK299&P=7

[z3u$]

Hi all,

I posted here last week but I guess my post and my account (which was new) got wiped with the database errors RCCA was having.

Anyway, my main question was if there are any sites that are dedicated to collecting info, pictures, tips, etc. on the Lightning. I know this forum has quite a lot of info on it but it's quite a task to wade through 37+ pages of posts to get the tidbits of info. I've read it all regardless but I can't believe no one has started a Geocities site or anything dedicated to the Lightning.


So far I've run my Pro through 3 tanks and have really enjoyed it. I was hoping to head to The Dirt in Hemet, CA this weekend to race but I didn't get my spare parts order in time. No sweat, 2 more weeks will let me break in the engine more and collect some tires and stuff. Does anyone know what tires work best out there usually? I'll also be changing out the gear diff lube when I tear apart the car the first time - what's the normal interval of teardown? Every 3-5 tanks or what?

I have broken one of the wing mounts in a tumble (learning how to adjust the buggy in mid-air) but that's it. Right now I've got a typical off-roader fix holding the wing on - 2 zip ties. ;)

I haven't added any mods (the Pro doesn't need it really) but I do have the parts for a 2nd rear disc brake and a few other things on the way. I've got the fat Motor Saver air filter on there now but I haven't run with it yet. My local shop didn't have a Crowd Pleazer body in stock so I got a Kyosho 7.5 body - the nose is a little longer but otherwise seems to be a very good fit when comparing the stock body to it.

And in case anyone is wondering I'm using the Hitec 5945MG for steering and 945MG for throttle. 180 oz/150 oz respectively ;) and I think a .12 transit time with a 5-cell pack.

[NewToNitro]

Ok im starting to miss my nitros(sold them all for electrics) and 8th scales are looking pretty fun....but the 500dollar price tag on the Hyper PBS doesnt look so great. Is the lightning an OK buggy? My LHS says its total crap, but i think thats because he cant get parts. The main thing im worried about is replacement parts...can someone post links to shops that sell them? Should i just save up and get the Hyper PBS? By time i get a starter box for the lightning im almost at the 500 for the hyper.

[z3u$]

You don't need a starter box, and you can go to the Ricky's RC site (search for the link in this thread) or call them to order parts. The Lightning is a good car, just do some reading on this thread, most people here have posted their "first impression" type reviews.

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by z3u$
You don't need a starter box

Need...no Want...yes :) i dont seem to have the best of luck with pullstarts :(

[RokleM]

Well, I figured out what my issue was. 2 weeks ago I installed the seal for the diffs, which changed the diff mesh JUST slightly enough to wear the teeth just a tad in the rear. The WS7 was too much for it. The shimming of these from the factory is pretty off.

On that note, anyone know what all spiders will fit in here? Kyosho 7.5? Also, I've shimmed a LOT of diffs (owning a 2.5-3 HP supermaxx), but I'm not seeing how that can be done easily with these diffs. Where do you place the shims in order for the diff to not bind up? It doesn't look like you can add them very easily behind the pin.

-RokleM

[CHEVYMAN07]

I am looking for a new truck to bash and occasionally race with. I would like a good, durable, reliable, great handling truck. The choice is between the lightning rr or the sportmaxx. I would like something I could bash with repeatdly but race sometimes.Which engine is more reliable out of the two? Thank you for your advice

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by CHEVYMAN07
I am looking for a new truck to bash and occasionally race with. I would like a good, durable, reliable, great handling truck. The choice is between the lightning rr or the sportmaxx. I would like something I could bash with repeatdly but race sometimes.Which engine is more reliable out of the two? Thank you for your advice

well your kinda compairing apples to oranges. The Lightning is a 4wd racing buggy and the Sport Maxx is a 2wd monster truck. If you going to be bashing for the most part i would probably go with the sport maxx. Though i have the same prob as you right now...i cant decide.

[CHEVYMAN07]

Yea its the worst part of the hobby, DECIDING!I would really like something reliable to.

[z3u$]

Originally posted by NewToNitro
i dont seem to have the best of luck with pullstarts :( I'm not going to worry about a box until I put in a true racing engine - the secret with pullstarts is to wear a glove on the hand that pulls the cord, and don't pull it out more than 8-10 inches.

Rokle - thanks for the update, I'll keep an eye on that when I rebuild.

Can one of the regulars read my post and answer one or two of my questions?

[RokleM]

Yeah, the stock engine starts pretty easy with the pull start. It's so easy to start, it starts perfect with a 1/10th scale box as well if you wanted.

-RokleM

[CHEVYMAN07]

How good is it off road? I know it wouldnt be as good as my e-maxx(LOL). But how about overall handling in racing format? THanks again

[RokleM]

Presently we're still running blue groove (packed) where I'm at (Columbus, OH), but as soon as it turns nice we'll be outside on the large loose tracks.

-RokleM

[geo8498]

Well, I decided on my servo arrangement. I have the HITEC 645 for steering, and I just got a JR Z590M for throttle/brake. Not a bad servo from what I can tell. $39 with 85oz torque and .15 speed @6v. LHS lady said they are new.


I also just installed a set of torque rods from Team BlueStar. $10 on eBay. They're made for the Kyosho, but I got them to fit. The rear rod fit with no modification. The front rod required a new hole drilled in the chassis, approx 1/4" back from the original hole. If you're running a Pro with dual front brakes, it wouldn't work though. The rod is too close to the brake mount.

[geo8498]

Just thought, the Pro version probably already has the aluminum torque rods doesn't it. So I guess it doesn't matter.

[geo8498]

Just picked up the June issue of RCNitro, which has an article on 1/8 Scale Buggy Guide. How excited I was. UNTIL.... Not one mention of the Lightning, not even one on the Inferno. Can you believe it? It includes 6 different Ofnas, the GS Storm, Duratrax Axis, and the XTM X-Terminator.

Well, IMHO, this does not constitute an indepth buggy guide, but more an OFNA comparison chart. I never could figure out what the difference between all those Ofna buggies were anyway.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by geo8498
Just thought, the Pro version probably already has the aluminum torque rods doesn't it. So I guess it doesn't matter.

Yea, the Pro version has the aluminum front and rear torque rods :)

As far as pricing for Hot Bodies parts - a guy I race with paid about $70 with shipping for a complete set of spare parts from Ricky's R/C. Now talk about reasonable :D

geo8498 - R/C Car did a "shoot-out" on 5 buggies in its March 2003 issue :) The lightning was well represented there - however, OFNA opt'ed not to send in a car, guess that was RCNitro's answer to that :)

[romulus]

Yeah, I was undesided whether or not get the lightning or the Ofna 9.5 But after reading the article and seeing the ad for the Pro version it made up my mind. So far so good with my ride. I am thinking in getting the OFNA/Picco .26 engine (hopefully soon).
I have a question. Can you still use a starter box in a pull start engine? it seems that the fly wheel is not low enough...
Thanks for your response:)

[RokleM]

I ran a starter box with my stock engine for the first 3/4 of a gallon. Worked like a champ.

-RokleM

[maury curtis]

Does anyone know what the factory carb. settings are for the high,low speed adjustments ? I need to know the number of turns out.

Thanks-
Maury

[RokleM]

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/tuneing.htm

-RokleM

[RokleM]

Well, it looks like Ricky's and Hot Bodies are out of the diff spider gears. Does anyone know if a different manufacture will fit? I'm out of racing until someone gets them in stock :(

-RokleM

[maury curtis]

Thanks for the link !!!

Maury

[blemaxx]

just a quick what would be the best tool set for the pro? I could look in the book for size but I am sure some of you bought them so would know what to get.

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Hey RokleM, about that problem you were having:
If any one else has this problem- It's probably because you need thicker oil in your center diff. Mine does that also- Front tires get traction, but rear tires don't do much. Only thing you probably need is thicker oil in your center diff.
On another note, I haven't been able to run my buggy in a while because I need some tires and stuff. I just got rims, but i can't afford tires. Does any one know where I can get some cheap tires!?!?
Thanks,
Steve

[RokleM]

Actually my diffs just weren't shimmed properly, causing some eating of the gears. It had nothing to do with the type of oil I was using.

-RokleM

[HBLigHtnIngRR]

Oh, I see! My bad! But, my buggy actually does need thicker oil in the center diff. Does like 3 or 4000 wt. seem good?
Thanks,
Steve

[RokleM]

That's incredibly thin. I use 7K in the front, 10K in the center, and 3K in the rear.

-RokleM

[geo8498]

my custom aluminum wing painted yellow

[geo8498]

closer view to show the pattern

[geo8498]

Front torque rod from Team BlueStar

[cbr74]

RokleM... there's somebody selling Lightning parts on E-Bay if you still haven't found you some diff gears.

geo... that torque rod is ummm.... welll... different.


In case anybody didn't know... HotBodies' website is alive again:
Hot Bodies (http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/) \


The new Lightning parts have been scheduled to be machined... :D

[RokleM]

I ordered 3 sets of Kyosho 7.5 gears today. I'll see if they fit.

-RokleM

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by cbr74
...The new Lightning parts have been scheduled to be machined... :D

Still all hush-hush??? :) :D There are a ton of these buggies at my local track (Pottbellys) :) And so far so good - this past weekened we had a guy running a Lighting TQ over a couple of K2's and such, but a lost e-clip ended his dominate race day :)

And too boot, his buggy was box-stock - the only thing he changed was the tires

[cbr74]

Still all hush-hush???

At this point all I can say is... 7075 T6 :D

[RokleM]

I'm thinking radio tray and posts ;)

-RokleM

[k_bojar]

:) Cool...But the Pro already is using 7075 aluminum :)

[cbr74]

Not for THESE parts it's not.

[atm92484_3]

.

[blemaxx]

Fun at my local BMX track after first day with it after break in man I hate snow now
http://www.******.net/media/mud-buggy.jpg http://www.******.net/media/mud-buggy.jpg

[cbr74]

Wow, looks like you had some serious fun.

[blemaxx]

Sure did and didn't even think about my Maxx trucks that I sold:)

[k_bojar]

atm92484_3 - nice paint job...Washington Pa is out by Pittsburgh isnt it :( If it wasnt I'd take a ride out and run my Lightning around too :D

[atm92484_3]

Thanks..I think the body turned out pretty well. Yea Washington is roughly 20 miles south of Pittsburgh.

[NitoIgniter]

I'm new to the thread and looking to buy a 1/8 scale buggy and, of course, the HB Lightning Pro is on the list of possibles.

The Koysho Inferno MP-7.5 Sport, however, is looking' pretty tasty:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANJ1&P=7

Do not confuse this "Sport" version with the standard MP-7.5. This is what I've heard bad about the Sport:


If you get the Inferno Sport and plan to do upgrading later you will be sorry. It uses a different chassis and is not counter sunk for the low CG like the regular Inferno and Kani editions.


I've heard upgrades for the Sport are costly too.

I've heard some of the hop-ups and parts from the 7.5 are a direct fit on the HB Lightning Pro. Which buggy is closer to the standard MP75, the Pro or the 7.5 Sport? Is the HB counter sunk for the low CG or is it's geometry closer to the Sport?

Has anymore seen these cars side by side? Is the koysho worth the extra $40 or would I just be paying for the name?

Thanks

[cbr74]

The Sport has a plastic spur gear.

The Lightning Pro chassis is hard annodized 7075 aluminum and fully countersunk.

The Lightning is very similar to the MP 7.5, but it is its own buggy.

Don't confuse higher cost with higher quality. The Lightning Pro is the best value going in 1/8th scale.

[dasmoose]

NitoIgniter,

I would likely say the HB Pro. I was quoted a price for a new pro (in this fourm thread) at 325. At that price it is allready 75 under what the sport will run, plus you will have to buy radio gear for both buggys so you will have half of the cash you need for the radio if you get the pro.

I'm not sure how the pro is as far as 7.5 parts swapabality, I'm still in the process of saving up for my pro, so you'll have to get that info from one of the other guys. Also, the pro has a .21 engine, and the sport comes with a .24 (I think) so it will not be race legal, if that's what you are into.

So for me the HB is the way to go due to the price, the good things I've heard here, and the engine that would let me race (if anyone ran 1/8 races here) if I wanted to.

[CHEVYMAN07]

Hello all. I am looking into buying a new bashing and racing vehicle. I am looking at the lightning rr, t-maxx, and xxx-t sport. I have a t-maxx right now but its been a pain because its nitro. I have a little nitro experience. The t-maxx does have the costumer support behind it so does losi but I dont know about hot bodies. How easy is the lightning to break in? How does it fair on the track? Which would yall prefer as the best bashing and racing truck? Thank you for your replys

[dasmoose]

NitoIgniter,

Look on the 7.5 thread, there are a few detailed posts showing whre the sport and the std. 7.5 are different.

Chevyman,

If you're having trouble with your T maxx due to the fact that it is nitro do you really want to get another nitro ride just yet? Nothing personal but if I were having trouble with nitro I think I would rather wait and get a good working knowlage of how nitro engines and RC's work and how to tune/care/maintain them then go out and get a bigger, faster, more complex nitro ride. If you're really set on getting a new ride, as opposed to getting better with the nitro on your T then mabey you should really take a better look at that losi eletric truck.

My sugestion would be to get more comfortable with the tmaxx, get a good understanding of the driveline, engine and what not, then move up to the lightning, or another 1/8th scale if you're going big.

Enjoy

[CHEVYMAN07]

Well the thing is, I have been running/maintaining electrics for about 5 years. I really liked the t-maxx at first but the power wasnt there so I got me a cv-rx. This being a racing nitro engine it is alittle sensitive I guess you could say. I am actually trying to get used to the cv-rx and its tuning because everybody says they love the power and reliability of o.s. I will still mess with the t-maxx and get it running right before I buy anything ele.The lightining attracted me because of the power, speed, and videos on trilordy.com of 1/8 buggys:D . Thats all

[NitoIgniter]

cbr74, thanks for the info. I agree that the Lightning Pro is really a good bang for the buck. The Sport carries the Koysho name but that's about it. The 2.5mm chassis and the plastic spur gear are big let downs from the Sport. I can't get much more info on the Sport, but I'm guessing it doesn't have the 4mm aluminum shock towers and the other nice parts the HB does.

dasmoose,
I agree. You just can't beat the price. The standard mp75 would be awsome for me, but after you put an engine in it and a radio, you're looking at $800 minimum. The HB, at $325, leaves me enough cabbage to get an awsome radio. I saw an XS3 for $240! :cool: That gets me a descent buggy and a sweet radio for less than 6 bills (which is my budget).

-NI

[cbr74]

Good servos are just as, if not more important than a good radio.
On my Lightning Pro, I went with the Airtronics MX-3 (best FM radio for the $) and a pair of 94358Z servos. You will not regret spending the extra money for quality servos, trust me.

At the very least get a good quality metal gear servo for steering, it's a must for any 1/8th buggy.

[NitoIgniter]

agreed. the xs3 comes with a Z590 Torque Race Servo which does have metal gears and it puts out 85oz of Torque. I've heard you want at least 100 for a steering servo, but 85oz is a whole lot better than the servos that come in some of the RTR buggies. 85 isn't great but it would get me through until I bought better ones.

The XS3 is just cool cause you don't have to wait for a clip. :cool:

[atm92484_3]

Igniter, don't get the Sports. I have (well had) a regular Inferno. After spending enough to buy another Kanai, I've upgraded it to Kanai status minus the diffs. If you want an Inferno, get the Kanai II from the get go (its really the only version thats worth it, but its also the most expensive 1/8 buggy out there). With that said, the HB Pro is defiently the better choice. It includes a lot of really nice hop-ups and it does not cost an arm and a leg.

[Juice]

Ok, how is the engine in the Pro? Runs strong, good quality running engine? How does it stack up against say the Hyper8 port

--Also who has the best prices For the PRO as I might be buying very soon!!

[RokleM]

The engine in the PRO is the same as the RR.

It is by no means a massive powerhouse, but does put out a decent amount of umph. I would imagine the Hyper 8 would have a little more power. My suggestion would be to run it and see what you think. If it's not enough for you, then get something else. If it works for you, you didn't waste the money investing in another engine.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

It's the same engine as the HPI Savage .21. It's reliable and easy tuning, but no powerhouse. It has almost as much power as a 4 port Hyper, but not quite. It's a good engine to get used to the buggy with, but you'll be wanting more power eventually.

I went for a Paris Picco XP .21 in my Lightning.

[RokleM]

I ran about half a gallon or so through mine and converted to a RB WS7.

-RokleM

[romulus]

After getting used to the Pro engine or I should say Savage engine I realized that I want more power. :D Don’t get me wrong, the Pro engine is a nice and easy to tune. But I decided to go a little bit to the extreme for my buggy. I recently got an OFNA/Picco .26 engine for about $160. Not bad price considering that other engines can go for 250 to 400 bucks. Last night I just finished installing it to my Pro. The only thing that I have to do is to grind off a bit the engine mounts since the engine body is a bit on the fat side making the mounts sit in an angle instead of being flush to the chassis. Other than that it went in with no problems. By the way I had to reclock the arm in the carb by loosening the set screw. Hopefully this weekend I will start the break in process. I will let you know how it performs.:)

[cbr74]

Plan on gearing up a tooth or two... I'm betting that .26 is going to have wayyy too much torque for stock gearing.

I have a Picco .26 on its way... but it's going to find a home in my Terra Crusher.

[cbr74]

BTW... if anybody's interested... RcBoyz has the Lightning Pro in stock for $319.99. I've dealt with them many times, they are good people and they accept PayPal. They don't yet have it on their website, but shoot 'em an e-mail or give them a call.

RcBoyz (http://www.rcboyz.com/)
sales@rcboyz.com
(801)252-0244

[Juice]

Yea they do, its under Kits!! 319.00! Im almost ready to push the paypal button!!

[romulus]

cbr74,
I agree, I guess is not a bad idea in getting a bigger clutchbell. Do you remember how many tooth the stock clutchbell has?? I think that an OFNA or Kyosho will fit in the Pro.

[cbr74]

Oops.. guess they updated the website. Cool.

:D

romulus.. stock is 13T, Ofna Dominator bell is almost exactly the same dimensions as stock. I believe these will work:
Ace (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_106&products_id=2885&osCsid=b6a34c05f3af16f7ea22468b44b3100f)

Also... if you got the pullstart version of the .26, I believe it's a standard shaft... in which case you'll need an OFN 10091 or equivalent.
OFN 10091 (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_106&products_id=2487&osCsid=b6a34c05f3af16f7ea22468b44b3100f)

[cbr74]

Nevermind... it's an SG shaft.. my bad. :rolleyes:

[cbr74]

Here's a little feather to put in our caps guys... Beazer Martin qualified 3rd in the Silver State Nitro Challenge 1/8 sport A-Main and finished 7th driving a Hot Bodies Lightning Pro.
:D

[cbr74]

BTW... he WAS leading the race until a cheap shot from the #2 driver took him out. :mad:

[atm92484_3]

Have any of you guys tried the Hyper 21 8 port Race yet? They look like really great (even better than the original 8 port) budget race engines.

[CHEVYMAN07]

How does the lightning fair off-road? Nothing major off-road, just normal terrain

[Juice]

Hey, any of you going to be in vegas on May4 for the race? I just found out I will be going on the 4th! I dont know what time I will be arriving, but Im shooting to be there early to check out some racing!!

[cbr74]

Nope, going to be at RCX that weekend.

[Juice]

Does the Pro come with silicone in the diffs or grease? If not silicone whats a decent setup of weights for the diffs F/C/R Thanks! Also shock oil weights F/R you find good to start with along with any differant springs?

Also do I really need any hop-ups out of the box? Im just looking for any weak spot any of you may have found and I can go ahead and get the upgraded parts at the same time. I know Im going to get me a 5 cell hump pack battery...

[cbr74]

It does come with silicone in the diffs, but I'm unsure what weight they use. I drained mine and refilled them with 5k/10k/1k.

I haven't messed with shock oil or springs. Stock set-up is pretty good for my usage.

Rear CV's are a good upgrade. Part # C8072

[RokleM]

I filled the diffs with 7/10/3, added more pre-load on the springs, and filled them with 45 weight oil.

Rear CV's are the way to go. I also built the vehicle with some 1/8th scale tubing. The fuel lines that come with the vehicle are meant for 1/10th.

Other than those changes, it's pretty perfect out of the box. Even at that, the changes we've made don't HAVE to be done.

-RokleM

[maury curtis]

Could anyone tell me a brand of type of glow plug that they are using with the lightning ? Would like to have an extra in the box "just in case"....

Thanks-
Maury

[RokleM]

I didn't use the normal plug that came with it, but used McCoy 9's. They work fine.

-RokleM

[cbr74]

I run either McCoy #8's or Tamiya 41003's. They are both medium heat range plugs.

[RokleM]

Yeah, I run 30% Trinity, so the 9 is highly recommended. It's designed for power and high nitro content.

-RokleM

[blemaxx]

What do you thin about OS #8? I was told to get that one

[cbr74]

O.S. #8 is a medium heat range plug much like the ones I run.

I guess I should have mentioned... I run Trinity or HPI 20% in all my nitros.

[RokleM]

Yeah, 20% runs too hot in the .21's I've used, so I've used Trinity 30% ever since. More lubrication than standard fuels, drops the temps considerably (yes believe it or not, higher nitro content means lower temps), and tons of power. That's why I use the #9 in mine.

-RokleM

[blemaxx]

good deal I am also running 20% But think I may go to 30 because of the elevation I live at and it runs bit warm.

[RokleM]

Well, it also could be the fuel you're running. What do you currently use? Certain fuel's I've found to run pretty high temps (Wildcat Eliminator for one) even when using high oil content.

-RokleM

[blemaxx]

I think it is Wildcat have to look when I get home from work. But I have been told to run 30% because I drive my buggy at about 8000 feet 90% of the time?

[RokleM]

Yeah, Wildcat really ran hot for me (both 20 and 30%). When I switched to the Trinity Platinum (same price), I increased performance by probably 10-15% (same nitro content), my CV-R dropped 25 degrees, and my XTM 24.7 (n supermaxx at that time) dropped 35 degrees.

Honestly, I'm not sure about the whole elevation thing, but that is certainly a possibility.

-RokleM