XTM X-Terminator Buggy

[gigbyt]

does anyone have any info on this new buggy?
i hear its supposed to be .247 powered!
has anyone tryed this buggy out yet? i am going to be buying
my first 1/8 scale and am trying to gather info on the different kinds of buggys available. my current favorite is a mugen xr.
i saw it at a track and it looked indestructable.
thanx,gigbyt.:)

[moep]

If it's got the .247 in there, I guess it's supposed to be primary a bashing buggy.

Maybe they will come up with a x-terminator pro for racing use.

[Gmanlusk2004]

i assume you were amazed too when you saw the advertisment in rcca this month. i think that it's a great idea to put the .247 engine in there. That thing looks insane!!! Well, i was looking at 1/8th scale buggies too and i am buying a Thunder Tiger EB-4 S2 RTR super combo. I'm getting a killer deal too. I have been doing research for about 4 months on 8th scale buggies and i would get the Mugen MBX4 xr over everything. I guess it's just that i don't like kyosho very much or just the fact that everybody has a 7.5, but i just like the Mugen. If i had more money i would definently get the mugen. It's a decent price and it is a killer buggy. Also the TTR EB-4 S2 is an awesome buggy... it has recently won the Silver State Nitro Challenge and another eb-4 placed 7th. I think that the best bang for the buck is the TTR EB-4, but for all out racing i'd get the Mugen MBX4XR. Peace... Garrett ;)

[gigbyt]

whats the difference between a basher and a racer
when buying a 1/8 buggy?
is the .247 not durable enough for race use?
from the few races ive seen it seems to include quite a bit of
bashing on the track. looks like a lot of fun!!!!!!!!
i used to BASH my t-maxx but never raced with it.

[Gmanlusk2004]

not that it's not good enough for racing but it's just not legal according to either NORRCA or ROAR (i'm not sure which covers 8th scale buggies)
Later, Garrett

[moep]

Garrett is right,

I don't think the .247 is a bad engine, of course not!

It's just that .21 are the standard in 1/8 Buggys and I can imagine that ppl at the club dont like to see their top-notch .21s getting almost ...-kicked by a way cheaper .247

We'll see how the .247 performs in the buggy, it's a nice low-end engine, but the top end won't be enough to beat the Italian .21s anyway. For bashing-use the engine will do just fine, I guess.

Maybe the two new .247/.25 engines ring in a new era over the long term - can you imagine a .25 C5?

omg, the power is already more than enough for club-racers... :rolleyes:

[Gmanlusk2004]

Doesn't Ofna make the .25? Didn't they make that for their new monster truck, the Titan? That thing looks bad, but everyone i know has told me to stay away from Ofna. But i have to admit, the ofna trucks look pretty badass:cool:
Later, Garrett

[moep]

Yep, Ofna makes that .25...

In fact, it's just a bigger version of the Force P4 - which is one of the umm... "mildest" .21 out there.

I heard from many owners that it's power-output is about the same level as the .21 Hyper, so the XTM is far superior.
Bummer... why didn't they just make a .25 Hyper? Now that would have been cool...


rgds,

Clemens

[doesgo]

What do you know about this .247 engine? I'm interested in a 1/8 scale 4WD buggy for bashing, but I don't know too much about brands or what's good and what's not. All the advertising is fine, but if you believe that, they're all the greatest thing ever.

Obviously displacement isn't all there is to making power, since Traxxas just added 60% more power to the .15 engine without adding displacement.

I see 1/8 4WD buggies in all price ranges from Ofna, Tamiya, Kyosho, XTM, etc., but I have no idea which is good and which is junk without hearing from those with experience.

Anyone?

Bruce

[BAC5.2]

i am also condisering the XTM buggy, just for bashing, no racing.

the .247 is big, big generally means low end torque and low end torque means hella fun in all kinds of surfaces (SNOW!), if you dont believe me, drive a 63 willys pickup with a 350 and a 3 on the tree around a big open field in the snow and ice, soooo much fun.

im thinking of going with the XTM buggy and then swapping my Magnum Jr radio into it and using it's stock radio on my Micro RS4. no fuss, no muss, and a haul ass little 1/8 scale mofo.

i also want that Miss Bud, .15 powered nitro boat that tops 30, looks hella sweet.

[doesgo]

Man, I just can't decide what to do.

Electric is clean, quiet, and easy. It's also got poor runtimes and not as much speed or power.

Brushless electric has the power, but still not great runtimes and the system isn't that reliable yet.

2WD nitro stadium truck - relatively cheap, good power, fun. But no reverse, which is important for backyard bashing, and low ground clearance.

4WD nitro 1/8 buggy - faster yet, great traction, cool looking, but no reverse, expensive.

T-Maxx - fast, great traction, taller for better clearance, tough, reverse, cheaper than 1/8 buggy, more than stadium truck, but they are huge overall.

This is killing me. I love my RC10T, but I need longer runtimes and more power. What to do?

Bruce

[BAC5.2]

of those choices, get the 1/8th buggy. they handle better than the Maxx, not everyone has a buggy, and they HAUL. im gonna go with a buggy just for the sheer multi use they have. road and dirt, and pretty good at both of those.

the reverse thing doesnt bother me, but you dont want to have to walk a ways to turn the thing around. so whatever.

buggy = fast as balls, cool looking, handles, 4wd, mad snow-rally races in the winter, huge mudbogging when the snow melts, doesnt flip like the maxx does.

i kinda do want a 2wd 2.5 maxx, that would just be COOL! wheelies all day long, handles somewhat like a real car would (as far as pushing through turns on low-grip surfaces), and you could do MAD donuts in any type of terrain.

im kinda torn between the 2x4 Maxx and a 1/8th buggy. im leaning towards the XTM cuz its bitchin, but other than that, ive got some thinking to do. which is why matt need be online to answer my questions!

[doesgo]

Thanks for the opinion, BAC5.2. I love the appearance of the 1/8 buggies, that's for sure! And they seem capable as all heII. The ground clearance of the monster trucks would be cool, but to be honest I'd rarely need it.

That gets me to 4WD. How often do I really need it? I guess I'm getting my 2WD stadium truck unstuck somewhat regularly, having 4WD would probably reduce that by half, and adding in a bunch of power would do me even better.

The 1/8 buggies are on the expensive side, is Ofna any good with their 1/8 buggies? They have some just under $400. Then again, for another $50 I could get the X-Terminator with the .247 engine.

One last thing, how fast do these 1/8 buggies typically top out at? I'm not Mr. Top Speed by any means, but it sure would be fun to be able to beat my buddy's new T-Maxx with the TRX 2.5.

Thanks a lot,
Bruce

[doesgo]

Wait a minute....snow races? Mud-bogging? My experience is purely electric, can these nitro rides run in the snow? Can they handle a little water splashing? I'd love that, living in Minnesota.

Bruce

[Gmanlusk2004]

they can handle a little water, but not like being submerged or something crazy like that. Have you looked on ebay? I saw a Hot Bodies Lightening RR RTR for $398.00 and it looks a lot better than the XTM basher. I didn't end up getting the Thunder Tiger EB-4 (said i did in an earlier post) I have a GS Racing Storm. I love it. I bought it new off of ebay for $420.00. The best price now is around $480.00. www.limnet.com has the Thunder Tiger EB-4 RTR for $379.00, and www.quicktechhobbies.com has eb4 S2's for around $390.00
L8r,
Garrett

[doesgo]

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll check them out.

What kind of runtimes do you typically get out of a 1/8 buggy with a 125cc tank? Do you guys typically just keep refilling them repeatedly until you want to stop or do the engine temps get too high after a tank or two to do that?

Bruce

[Gmanlusk2004]

i usually get about 7-10 minutes depending on how hard i drive it. I let the car sit for about 10 minutes between runs to let it cool down. After it has cooled, it is easier to start, and it is just good for the engine life.
L8r,
Garrett

[anothermbdusted]

just so anyone wants to know on the website for xtm it states that the 24.7 engine has the same footprint as a 21 engine so i would imagine that if you did happen to want to race it then all you would have to do is switch out the engine for a 21 and your ready to go.the question is how good is it compared to other rtr 1/8th scale buggies?is it durable is it reliable and how easy is it going to be to get parts for it? and can you get them from the lhs?thats my .02$

[Gmanlusk2004]

You can't use that engine. It does fit in place of normal .21 engines but it is not legal to race w/. The buggy looks good, but i'm not sure how good it is. I'm sure it is awesome compared to the Ofna Ultra series, but i think that the ttr eb4, the storm, mp7.5, mbx-4xr, and the hb lightning look better. But i'm not sure.
L8r,
Garrett

[cheez-it man]

I just got a Hot Bodies Lightning RR about 3 weeks ago and it is awsome and i got an awsome deal on it.I got it for $350 and Ive had nuthin but nonstop fun.well check out the thread on it
:cool:

[gkcontra]

I have a lightning and a Storm, love them both. If you can, pickup a slightly used Storm on ebay for about 350, it has an awesome radio and unless they really leaned out the car you'll have plenty of life from the engine. Also, the piston/sleeve is only around $40. If you don't want to go used, go for the lightning, $320 at www.meganitro.com. You will need to pickup a front chassis brace($?) and a new steering servo(~$40)., and you'll be ready to go. The Lightning had better handling out of the box though. I've raced my Storm for a little over a year and the Lightning still felt a little easier to drive, but I've only begun with it. The Lightning was designed by the engineers that developed the mp 5 + 6, so it has a good legacy even though it is new.

[tallcracker]

i also have the lightning, it runs really well and has a great price. i took it to the track after having it for 2 days and layed the spank down on some infernos

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

does anybody have any pics of their lightnings? it looks good and also the price is right. but ofna came out with the new mbx pro and it looks really nice. also it comes with different tires and misc items. my cousin has the mbx pro, we tuned the .25 and it hauls ... it was beating alot of cars with out a doubt. it has 2.5 horses, well you know thats what they say, i wonder if they really throw it on a dyno....lol

[tallcracker]

hey jimmy
run over the the "hotbodies lightning RR" section in this area. all of us guys post multiple times a day and we even have a few pictures up. if you would like i will gladly take pictures from any angle for you and i will be glad to answer any questions you may have about the lightning.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

KOOL

[SlingItX]

Any real input on the XTM X-Terminator buggy? Has anyone run one? How does it perform? Any details would be appreciated.

Thanks.
SlingItX

[zuperfastone]

You know those boots that they have on the cva's? I want some for my hyper and was wondering if they are worth a darn? and where you can get them.
Thanks!

[Kenny123]

Is this car any good?

[nad138]

It seems nobody has yet to give a review on this new buggy. I'll bite the bullet and order one and see if it's any good.

Was reading some magazines and saw a shootout between 5 of the old and new RTR kits out on the market (AXIS, STORM, THUNDER TIGER, LIGHTNING ans XTERMINATOR). Ofna opted not to join the shootout as they said it might not get a good review as they don't advertise on that mag:D Anyway, the XTM got first honors, followed by GS lightning, storm and axis/tiger.

RCCA actually had a review of it and seems to be decent. Will let you know when I get it.

[Kenny123]

Thanks nad138!

[nad138]

No prob Kenny.

Found an X-terminator on the web for only $389.99 (+shipping). Cheaper than some $445 advertised price by others. Should be getting it in a few days. Anyway, weather forecast for the weekend isn't promising.:(

[Kenny123]

Where did you find it for that price?

[nad138]

Got it off http://www.littleshopofhobbies.com. The guy who runs it (Hobbi...what a coincidence:D ) was pretty easy to talk with (fast response). Let me know if you're gonna get it too.

[Kenny123]

I might buy one when I get more info. on how well it runs.

[SlingItX]

I just picked one up this week from littleshopofhobbies.com. I got tired of waiting for reviews and I had heard nothing but good elsewhere, so...

Out of the box it looks sweet, as a newbie to R/C that's not saying much, but none-the-less, it looks good and seems to be a well-built, solid buggy. The transmitter is a bit cheesie, but I honestly didn't expect much either. I can hear a slight buzzing from the steering servo at neutral and can't get it to stop consistently regardless of trim settings (the JR XS3 is looking good). All the details I thought I would have to upgrade were already taken care of, down to the throttle return spring. I changed how it was mounted, however, when I noticed that there was some interference with the brake shaft. I also installed an XTM Failsafe for good measure. I have yet to alter the geometry since I wouldn't know what I was doing at this point anyway, but there certainly is an unlimited amount of adjustment available, the potential is unreal. I would like to shorten the majority of the wires and change the connectors; the wires are a bit too long and can easily be pinched by the battery and receiver boxes if you're not careful and the connector for the battery is 2 pin and would not accept the hump pack, 3 pin connector. No big deal, I just used the cell carriage that came with it until I trim the hump pack connector. I also installed the MIP on-board temp gauge.

I will be gluing the tires tomorrow afternoon when I have some good CA adhesive and a swatch of Scotch Brite.

Since it's very cold here in Michigan I won't be able to do the engine break-in until early next week at the shop where I work. My wife would not be pleased if I were to do this in our basement :)

nad138, I'm anxious to hear your opinion since you will most likely have the opportunity to run it before I do and you appear to have much more R/C experience than myself. Please don't be afraid to drop some tips and tricks if they come to mind.

Honestly, I'm like a kid in a candy store and I can't wait to get this thing in the dirt - four inches of snow last night, and it doesn't look like it's going to warm up any time soon.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

SlingitX, same thing for me. Got tired of waiting for reviews and decided to get it. I too am still new to this hobby and learning the ropes. Anyway, that's what this Forums are for :)

Hope to get it on Friday, but might not get to do anything with it during the weekend as weather seems to be on the negative side (I still need to work on my NTC3 as I just smashed in my exhaust). I'm already planning on taking out the receiver/transmitter and replacing it with a better one, leave the servos in the mean time (steering servo's already has a high enough torque to handle it). Also get a venom failsafe just to be sure and some

Take some more pix of your ride and post it here, might as well start "dragging" in new people on this thread and have some fun discussions.

Later dude.

[tallcracker]

hey guys
i am a lightning owner, but i thought i could stop by and kinda add to the discussion and learn something at the same time. i read up some on this buggy and it seems like alot of time went into thinking about the layout. it looks like a very good design.

its always the brave ones that go out and purchase one and see what happens. i kinda did that with my lightning, while i wasnt the first i was one of the first few to have one. i have loved it, and i hope you guys have similar luck.

[nad138]

Hey Tall, my thoughts exactly. If it sucks (from my point of view of course), then I'm sure I'd let people here know.

Was out at M&M today with Ezekiel. Only guy running a buggy was the guy with the Storm when you were there. I guess he's a regular every afternoon. Might not be there on Saturday. I'd let you know when I'm out with the XTM so you could come and check it out...and show me the stuff you changed in your setup.

[tallcracker]

yeah most of these 8th scale buggys are a safe buy. the designs have been prove over and over. as long as good materials are used it is hard for any company to go wrong.

let me know if you decide to go up sunday, i probably wont have my buggy because i will be getting off work late, but i can stop by and see urs. make sure you give then engine atleast 5 tanks for breakin. i did that with mine and i have had extremely good reliability with it.

[nad138]

I thought M&M is closed on Sunday. Or is it just the shop and not the track?

[tallcracker]

i was thinking saturday :rolleyes: i guess thats what happens when i post before lunch, lol, brain isnt turned on yet

[SlingItX]

If anyone has any ideas for mounting the failsafe don't hesitate to chime in. I'm still weighing the options (not many), you can see it hanging loose at the bottom right corner of the pic.

You can also see where I moved the throttle return spring from the corner post to the stabilizer (?) mount. This way it doesn't interfere with the brake linkage. I'm not sure if it's a good thing, but it also prevents the brakes from engaging when the electronics are shut down. I could see where this would be desirable in certain situations where I wouldn't even want it to coast should I lose the electronics, so I may modify this in the future, but I won't put it back to the way it was - a little too much interference for my taste.

Next Tuesday is the big day to start the break-in. I noticed in the manual that it's recommended to blip the throttle while driving the buggy around for 2-3 minutes at a time (for a total of 45 minutes of run time, 10 minute breaks between runs) - NOT breaking it in on a stand with the tires off the ground. This runs contrary to everything I've read elsewhere. AND they don't mention anything about bringing the piston to BDC during cool down. Weird... I'm not sure if I'll follow those directions at this point. Any suggestions?

-SlingItX

[MAXXMANA4]

SlingItX-
There are a number of theories on breaking in an engine.

What we found works the best (for the XTM 24.7 & .18) is running them just slightly rich, but run them like you normally would. Don't just let it idle for the tank. Run it! This way the engine builds up enough heat to cycle the sleeve. Let it cool after about 5 minutes of running. Then repeat the process about 6 or 7 times. After that you can lean out the engine a little bit.

A good starting point, however, is LSN - 8 turns and the HSN - 3 turns.

Yes, you should leave the piston at BDC (sorry if we forgot to mention) in between running it. Anything else, let me know.

Craig Kaplan
XTM Product Development
craigkaplan@globalhobby.net

[SlingItX]

Craig-

You're always on top of things, aren't you? :D

I e-mailed you a couple weeks ago and your response time was phenomonal. So, thank you again. I'll post a follow-up next week and let you know how it goes.

-SlingItX

[tallcracker]

the customer support from XTM is second to none. they have been all over the forum for thier monster truck helping people out and i am sure they will do the same here. what craig is saying about the engine breaking goes along with that nitro R/C magazine reccomends.
let me know how break in goes guys.

[nad138]

SlingItX - looks like I too will have the same question you have. For the failsafe, I might try to mount it on the side of the receiver box if it fits under the lid, if not, the top seems the most logical place to put it. Just make sure that you wipe clean the contact area were the double sided tape's gonna go. Let me know were you decide to put it.

[old phart]

Go right to the source. Craig has a page on the Hobby People website!

http://www.hobbypeople.net/tipfiles/craigcorner02.htm

[SlingItX]

nad138-

The failsafe fits under the lid on the side of the receiver box, however if it isn't placed to one side or the other (as opposed to dead center, which would be optimal) it's difficult to get a hold of the lid release/catch. I think I'll shift it more toward the rear of the box (toward the switch) and leave it at that (SEE PIC IN NEXT POST).

BTW, I had to trim one of the arms on the throttle/brake servo horn to prevent interference with the brake linkage at WOT (SEE PIC IN NEXT POST). When it swings around toward WOT it just prevents it from opening the carb all the way. The throttle linkage spring may need a little adjustment as well. I noticed that unless you blip the throttle hard the carb won't return fully to idle position - it stays open to 1/8th inch versus the 1/16th inch it's supposed to. No big deal really. Because when you mash the brakes the carb will return to 1/16th inch open. This is just part of the fine tuning I suppose. FYI, the manual shows a two arm horn which would have prevented this issue.

Other than that the tires are glued and everything is ready to go. I'll be doing the break-in sometime tomorrow. I thought I was headed out of town, but it turns out I'll be around to 'play' with the buggy.

-SlingItX

[SlingItX]

In regards to my previous post:

[nad138]

SlingItX

That's what I thought would be a "problem" with putting it under
the lid, but I think it'll be more secure during jumps and bottom outs. Thanks for the heads up on the arms, I'll check on that with mine. I had the same problem with my 1/10 before, I opted to put a 1/8 piece of tubing in between the spring and lock.

I just received mine yesterday and I still haven't had the chance to open it up. Still got to finish up my "DUTY" with the wife and kid :D

By the time you read this, you'd probably had the engine broken in. Did you follow Craig's procedure ? So how'd it go ?

[E-rexx]

Where can u find this buggy for the best price. I think it might be little shop of hobbies.

[SlingItX]

E-rexx - Little Shop of Hobbies (online) is definitely the least expensive. And hobbi's customer service is excellent.

Well, I took the buggy to my shop today and I only have one thing to say... Holy Crap! Sweet!

I knew the buggy was a tad cold from being in the car, around 62.0 deg's by the time I was ready to fire it up. So I used a heat gun to warm the head and let the glow plug igniter heat the plug for around 30 seconds (after getting the fuel lines primed, of course). I didn't bother touching the needles from factory setting after confirming they were very close to what Craig had suggested. I think I may have yanked the cord 10 times and rrr-rrriiiipp-rrr-rrr-rrr-rrr - fired up and continued to idle well. 10 seconds more for the igniter and off we went.

There's no question on how rich it was running. Plenty of white smoke on throttle and a nice film all over the pipe and rear wheel. Despite that fact, it reacted quite well to abrupt changes in throttle, almost snappy.

The only problem I noticed right away was the high idle - almost enough to fully engage the clutch. Some minor adjustments to trim and the throttle linkage - I was happy as a pig in **** and relieved I wouldn't have to tear down and fine tune the clutch. The throttle lever wasn't snapping back into neutral position. Simple adjustment and I was back on the floor.

I took Craig's advice and ran it like I normally would for four to five minutes at a time, still hesitant on the WOT ;) I would then bring it in, shut it down and let it cool to 90.0 deg's before firing it up again. The worst the temp got (according to the MIP gauge) was 209.6 deg's. Based on where I have the sensor wire mounted I'd say I'm only off by 10.0 - 15.0 deg's. I'm sure it will run hotter with the body mounted, but I plan to compensate by installing a much larger cooling head. One is already on the way as I type this.

I marked the flywheel for BDC after the first run. I admit, I forgot to do this before-hand and ended up pulling the plug to check the position of the piston because while it was warm I couldn't feel TDC by turning the flywheel. Rookie mistake, oh well.

As I stated before, I will definitely be upgrading the transmitter. It tracked well enough after adjusting the trim, but I noticed a little steering bias would come back after running for a few minutes. No big deal, I knew I bought an RTR with a less expensive transmitter. So, for what it is, no big deal. It works well enough for now.

I ran 2.5 tanks like this, just a little more than Craig recommended before leaning the engine out. So, I never started to lean it. I plan to do this tomorrow. Before packing it up today I did put after-run oil into the combustion chamber via the glow plug hole and cycled the piston several times.

The buggy is an absolute pleasure to drive. I have some on-road tires and wheels on the way so I can really get a feel for the control and reaction of the buggy - on-road anyway. I'm anxious to get it outside, but I'd rather not screw around with it while the weather is so cold (9.0 deg's this morning).

More to come...

-SlingItX

[E-rexx]

Thanks. Isnt there price about $390? Does he ship them, because i live in N.C. If i get one, which I think I will, the only hop-ups i think it needs are a receiver pack, a new radio, (i like the mx-3) and new tires.

[SlingItX]

E-rexx-

I got mine for 389.99 + shipping expenses. It was at my door for 401.00. Yes, he does mail-order and internet-order only. No problem getting it to you. I believe he said he only ordered 3 initially, so you may want to get on it soon or yours could be delayed in customs like mine was (for a week).

I'm not sure what you mean by receiver 'pack'? The receiver and the box fit together well, with the exception of too much wire. I'll be shortening them this week while I'm at the shop.

The tires really aren't that bad on the wear factor. After close to an hour of ripping around on epoxy painted cement floor they show only a little sign of wear. I imagine it will be much better in the dirt, certainly less abrasive. I'm not thrilled with the foams, however. A little too soft in my opinion. I can hardly wait for my on-roads to arrive, and to mount the Jammin' Jay Rippers on the Hyper Chrome wheels with medium foams.

The Airtronics MX-3 does look like a good radio. Let us know what you think once you get it? My heart is still set on the JR XS3. I like the idea of not having to worry about the crystals.

Aaah, so much to do and soooo much time. C'mon spring.

-SlingItX

[E-rexx]

I wont be getting it for another long while, i need to get my money together. A receiver pack is a rechargable pack with more cells (5) and stronger wires. Here is one- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG17&P=7

[SlingItX]

Got ya. Yes, I did order the 5-cell hump pack from NitroHouse. As I mentioned earlier, the connector won't mate without modification. No big deal, I snipped the extra off and filed down the side a bit and they fit just fine. I haven't tried the hump pack yet, but am looking forward to the extra umph I should get. If I'm not mistaken it's 6.0v instead of 4.8v?

I thought about upgrading to heavier gauge wires as well, but what's provided seems to work well enough for now. I noticed ServoCity.com has some for pretty cheap.

It's a shame you can't snatch one up right now. I'd like to hear other's input on the buggy. I can't wait for nad138 to post.

-SlingItX

[SlingItX]

Sorry, multiple post ???

[tallcracker]

hey guys
i was just poping in to see if nag broke his in yet. im glad to see that everything went well with yours sling.
i am also picking up the mx3 for my lightning, should have it in the next 10 days. i will stop by and let yall know how it performs. one thing i thought i would mention is that you usually want to keep the temperature above 200, even during breakin. the internal parts of the engine need to expand from heat or damage can be caused. as long as you are around 195-220 you shouldnt have a problem during breakin.
feel free to stop by the lightning forum anytime guys, we are both underdogs trying to get the word out on what great buys these buggies are.
later

[nad138]

heys guys,

Finally got to take it out the box last night....(around 2AM :p ). So here's what I think of the XTerminator.

- I wish they'd have left the body unpainted.
- the position of the fuel filter hinders the body to fit properly, if you insist on putting it on, I would hate to see this fall flat on it's back as it would be pushing on the fuel tank, adding pressure on
the 2 screws holding it. I digged up RCCA's Jan'03 issue and they showed how they fixed this (will post it here if anybody wants to see).
- as mentioned by Sling, the throttle return spring seems to be in an akward position.
- I also agree with Sling on the servo horn of the throttle/brake, need to trim one of the arms as it hits the brake linkage at WOT.
- receiver box lid hits brake linkage so you can't open it up fully (anyway, if you don't plan on replacing the receiver, no prob).
- on mine, the front right wheel seems to be at about 3deg neg angle but the left seems to be at 0 ???

Was planning on starting to break-in the engine today but my nearest LHS was out of the fuel I like (they have there own concoction).

That's it for now, still waiting on my failsafe, receiver and servo's to arrive before I really do the fun stuff. Later.

[nad138]

E-Rexx,

Also got mine at the little shop of hobbies site. Same price as Sling's unit ($401.99 including shipping). Hobbi's the man over there and has got good customer service.

As for the radio, I have an MX-3 and it does a pretty good job. The monitor on this radio I think is one of the best out there. if I had more bucks at the time, I'd like to go with the JR XS3. I'd also think about changing servos as <100oz. torque might not handle this car for long.

nad

[ezequiel]

nad,
are you going to break in the engine today? I'd like to see
your buggy, are you gonna break it in at the track? The weather
seems great, but not much for me as I still do not have the pullstart for my engine.

[SlingItX]

nad138-

Please post the article regarding the fuel filter/body interference correction, if you don't mind. I noticed this same problem. When I added the second filter, it didn't get any better ;)

I just did some adjustments on the camber and toe geometry myself since I'll be rolling on smooth surfaces for a while. I'm sure I'll have to adjust again once my on-road tires arrive. Oh well, I like tinkering.

Keep posting, we're on a roll.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

ezekiel, might not be able to run today as I still have to have my car inspected :( Malamang bukas kung wala si bosing. I'm still waiting on my failsafe also.

sling..I'll scan the page where they mounted the filter over were the throttle return spring is currently placed. They also reversed the elbow on the air filter. Will post it tonight.

nad

[SlingItX]

What a difference it makes leaning the engine out. I thought it was pretty decent running rich, but this is something else... and I'm not even done yet.

Maybe I'm easily pleased, but even the bottom end seems like it has some punch - high end is great, of course, but all through the power band it appears to have plenty of hard, fast pull. I'm definitely not disappointed.

Once I started leaning it out, there was a noticeable increase in heat, somewhere around 10.0 deg's (221.0 deg's max today). Not a significant amount, but I'm still running with the body off. The new head is looking like it may be necessary, although not critical at this point.

I did run into a little problem that ended my run prematurely. The pull cord refused to retract when I was getting ready to finish the last tank. Frustrated, I popped in some after-run oil and packed it up for home. I pulled the assembly apart and found that the spring had come out of its anchor point on the housing (not from the center spool). I ended up re-wrapping the 2 feet of spring and carefully placed it all back together. As an added safety I dropped some Black Max CA into the anchor point and called it good. Up and running again. BTW, the starter box should be here in a few days ;)

I'll be leaning it out a bit more tomorrow. Nothing serious, however since I prefer to keep it on the rich side for now. I'll just get it completely out of the bogging stage and probably leave it 'til this spring when I can get it outside in some fresh air.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling....

here's where they placed the fuel filter after taking it off the fuel tank. Notice that it's placed nicely on top of the center diff bracket.
It seems that they used a much shorter length of screw and drived it from underneath the bracket to keep it in place. To put that in there, they also removed the throttle return spring. They also reversed the elbow on the air filter making it's height lower.

nad

[nad138]

Sling....

here's where they placed the fuel filter after taking it off the fuel tank. Notice that it's placed nicely on top of the center diff bracket.
It seems that they used a much shorter length of screw and drived it from underneath the bracket to keep it in place. To put that in there, they also removed the throttle return spring. They also reversed the elbow on the air filter making it's height lower.

nad

[nad138]

oooppssss.....double post and pic too small.

[nad138]

here's a crop of the previous pic.....

[SlingItX]

Thanks nad.

Now that looks to be a little better fit than the factory install, but I'm not sure I'm ready to give up on the throttle return spring.. I'll see if I can rig up a spacer to lift the spring away from the linkage and still get the filter in there as well.

I'll post pics if I can get it to work.

-SlingItX

[SlingItX]

This will work for now, for me. Not pretty but it did the job.

I didn't like how low the air filter road when I reversed the elbow so I put it back into its original position.

When I pick up the new cooling head tomorrow, I'll see if I can get some posts and brackets made to put them where I think will be better. But that depends on when I receive my additional fuel line - I'll need a little extra length.

I've also thrown in a spacer to lift the throttle return spring away from the brake linkage. This will also be replaced by aluminum.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling...I see you have 2 fuel filters...any particular reason for that ?

Talking about the filter, I'm taking a look if there's a way to mount
it between the tank and the engine itself. There seems to be some amount of space there, just need to think what's the best way to do it.

[SlingItX]

nad-

One is the screened filter that's included with the buggy, the other is a 'stone' filter - I'm not sure if there's a significant difference, but the screened filter didn't appear all that impressive. Plus it's that little extra fuel capacity I like. I'm sure I'll end up with a rather large coil of excess fuel line in there as well. I'm amazed how quickly one tank of fuel goes.

Well, I had it outside today in the parking lot. There were only a few patches of ice which made for some fun. I was jumping it maybe a foot in the air coming up from a lower level parking lot. Not the biggest air, but fun never-the-less. There's a whole lot more grip on unpainted cement, no flips though.

Even outside in the 35 degree weather the engine was still running around 220 deg's - still waiting on the new head.

Have you had time to break yours in?

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Unfortunately, not yet. Just got to glue on my tires and still pondering if I should go away with the throttle return spring.

Parts hasn't arrived yet. Hopefully this weekend after going to our local race.

I also got a question, do you notice the rear brake disk making contact with the clutch bell base ? I was checking on the throttle/brake linkage and felt something binding when at idle (even on WOT). Thought of moving a little bit the engine to the side and see if it's still there (but maintaning paper width contact on the gears).

nad

[MAXXMANA4]

Nad & Dennis-

Remove the throttle return spring? :rolleyes:

What happens when the switch decides to "turn itself off" on a huge jump or the battery decides it wants to leave the car?

Don't know about you guys, but chasing an 1/8 scale car that is stuck at full throttle is no fun.

You'll find one day you'll be glad you had it on the car. Actually, most racing organization REQUIRE that you have a throttle return spring just for those reasons. If a battery becomes unplugged or flies out of the car, a failsafe can't help you. Failsafes rely on power to work.

No power and no signal make car somethin somethin...... :D

Craig Kaplan
XTM Product Development
craigkaplan@globalhobby.net

[SlingItX]

nad-

Nope. Mine appears to be okay.

I wasn't able to run the buggy today since I was helping a friend with his roof. Yes, his roof. I am certifiably insane. 30mph gusts and 25 deg's.

Sorry to hear about your parts delay. That bites.

If you lift the throttle return spring like I did it completely eliminates the interference with the brake linkage. However, if you're setting your filter up like in the previous pic you posted... I can see where you would still have a problem.

Let me know what you decide?

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Originally posted by MAXXMANA4
Nad & Dennis-

Remove the throttle return spring? :rolleyes:

What happens when the switch decides to "turn itself off" on a huge jump or the battery decides it wants to leave the car?

Don't know about you guys, but chasing an 1/8 scale car that is stuck at full throttle is no fun.

You'll find one day you'll be glad you had it on the car. Actually, most racing organization REQUIRE that you have a throttle return spring just for those reasons. If a battery becomes unplugged or flies out of the car, a failsafe can't help you. Failsafes rely on power to work.

No power and no signal make car somethin somethin...... :D

Craig Kaplan
XTM Product Development
craigkaplan@globalhobby.net

Craig...I knew you'd (or someone) chime in with that comment of mine :p I was thinking of ways to replace the throttle return spring if I decide to put the fuel filter on that part of the car. Since the engine is a slide carb, I'm thinking that it's possible to use the spring to hold on to the ball/ball cup on one end and the other on the High speed needle shaft (which can cover what Sling said about the carb only returning to a 1/8" opening rather than 1/16" - idle)....if you can suggest another alternative, please let us know. I don't know about you but the stock position of the spring looks strange as it's hitting one of the brake linkage.

nad

[tallcracker]

nad
using the spring in that method is actually preferable. when the carb is closed the strain from the spring is now on the carb and not on the servo. so now when the servo is in the nuetral position and during braking it doesnt have strain placed on it by the TRS.

[nad138]

Ok, after tinkering some more, decided to do the following :

1. interchanged position of TRS and brake link shaft on the servo arms - to reduce interference between these two.
2. mounted the fuel filter as described a few posts back but inserted ~4mm spacer between plate and fuel filter holder - to have some clearance between TRS and filter mount.

Now, we just need a high torque servo to compensate for the strain the TRS is inducing plus a servo horn that has more holes on.

[old phart]

Excuse me for butting in here. :p

But why does the fuel filter have to be rigidly mounted? I always just let them hang loose or more often loose but with a zip tie keeping it out of harms way.

And there was an article recently in one of the mag's where they used o-rings as TRS's. The o-ring goes around the carb body and slide, and when the servo is not powered the o-ring, acting like a rubber band, closes the throttle. Pretty clever.

X-terminators going on sale for $399.99 starting Friday :D

[nad138]

I forgot to add, that the cowl (body) now fits much better and no pressure on the fuel tank. Trimmed some on the right side as steering hits the body and some on the pipe exhaust section.

[nad138]

Originally posted by old phart
Excuse me for butting in here. :p

But why does the fuel filter have to be rigidly mounted? I always just let them hang loose or more often loose but with a zip tie keeping it out of harms way.

And there was an article recently in one of the mag's where they used o-rings as TRS's. The o-ring goes around the carb body and slide, and when the servo is not powered the o-ring, acting like a rubber band, closes the throttle. Pretty clever.

X-terminators going on sale for $399.99 starting Friday :D

tnx old phart ?? that's actually a good tip...just that overtime, I'd guess the strength of the o-ring (or rubber band) deteriorates and gets brittle and eventually breaks. Though it's still gonna be handy for some quick fix.

[old phart]

X-Terminators on sale for $399.99 NOW! OK, tomorrrow but the info is up now! Online!! Hobby People:

http://www.hobbypeople.net/specials/os2003_01.asp

[MAXXMANA4]

Old Phart-
Good idea with the o-ring, but if you spill a little fuel on it the o-ring can deteriorate very quickly.

Nad-
One thing I did was move the fuel filter to the center brace while using a new screw (just like you did). I did, however, cut away the center part of the filter mount for the throttle return spring. This would allow the spring to kinda work in the middle of the mount. It hangs up ever so slightly, but works just fine.

Oh, Tallcracker:

B]using the spring in that method is actually preferable. when the carb is closed the strain from the spring is now on the carb and not on the servo. so now when the servo is in the nuetral position and during braking it doesnt have strain placed on it by the TRS.[/B]

There is still a strain on the servo using it in this method unless you remove the spring on the slide carb linkage and have no movement on it.

[SlingItX]

nad-

Couldn't help but notice on your last pic, it appears you may have some front brake bias going on the way the linkage stops are set. Maybe it's just the angle. Anyway... just thought I would inquire as to whether or not this was the case, and if so, why?

I was under the impression that rear brake bias was more desirable, especially in the turns.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Hey guys...

It's good to see new people with this buggy in this thread.

Maxx, I didn't cut the support for the air filter like you did, instead I stacked like 5-6 washers before I mounted it just to make enough clearance for the TRS to do it's thing without interference.
I'm also going to reverse the fuel lid to become standard (opening should be at the back)...will then try to mount it back there and see if it's going to be better.

Sling...I noticed this too and fixed it, the guys at the factory didn't do a good job on it. The binding I asked about earlier was caused by the clutch bell having not enough clearance with the side of the rear center diff mount. I had to dismantle radio tray and center diff assembly to check if it was one of the bearings (center, rear diff, front diff..etc.) that might have been causing it. Fixed it using the paper method to set proper mesh on the gears.

I finally started breaking in the engine. Started rich and half way through the process. I followed XTM's (Craig's) method. It's pretty hard to control my itchy finger to pull the trigger to full throttle :p Did it after watching qual's at our invitationals here ... and as expected, no x-terminators. Hope this will soon change (+ want to see Lightnings too...didn't see you there Tall).

Later guys...keep on posting.

[tallcracker]

yeah i had to work sat till 4 so i wasnt able to make the qualifiers. i did get a chance to stop by and purchase a few things, including a xr3i radio. i am just waiting for my 8 port engine and some crime fighters then i am all set! i am looking forward to racing with ya nad and us making a name for the underdogs!

[nad138]

yeah tall, underdogs we are. Watched the last day of the invitationals with bobby...man, I'll be needing lots of practice to compete with you guys..now, all I need is time (which I don't have..hehe). I'll be up Dallas tomorrow, and probably drop by some tracks there if time permits.

MAXX/Sling, any track time this past days ? I'm almost there in breaking in the engine, need to get me that .10 gasket to bump up to 30% nitro...in the meantime, might as well practice with what I currently have.

[SlingItX]

nad-

I'm still looking for a track that I can practice at this spring/summer. I'm not sure what's available in the mid-Michigan area. I'm sure I'll find one. However, my father-in-law is going to 'make' a pseudo track on his property so that I can zip around there without having to travel some ungodly distance to practice.

I was at his place this afternoon and pretty much knocked his socks off. He's only ever run electrics himself and told me there was just no comparison. I then inadvertently sky'd it a bit further than I expected and plowed into some heavy powder... with the body off. No problem digging its way out, but it was carrying a pound or two of snow with it.

I ripped it down the drive WOT, shedding as much as I could then wheeled it into the garage for a quick blast from the compressor. No harm done.

I'm still getting it dialed-in. I have to lean the high side a bit more because it's still gurgling a little in transition to higher rpm's, then I'll get to the low side.

I just found out an hour ago that my custom head will be delayed for the next two weeks. I really wanted to have it installed for running indoors this week, but obviously it will have to wait. I did, however, get my on-road skins and have them mounted up ready to go for tomorrow afternoon.

Quick question; I went to the McCoy MC-8 plug a few days ago and noticed that the threaded section around the coil is discoloring, sort of a brown, rust color. The coils look clean and shiny still and they glow brightly along their whole length. What would cause the discoloration? I've always made sure to clear the after run oil out before firing it up. Any help would be appreciated.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling...that'll just be the oil residue from the gas. What gas are you using and nitro content ?

nad

[SlingItX]

nad-

Thanks for the answer. I've been using the (Monster HorsePower) Trinity Power Blend 20%. It's been working well for me.

I had it outside again this afternoon. I think it was around 25 deg's today. Well... I forgot to richen up the mixture and the heat climbed to 280 deg's on me. Fortunately I'd only taken two hot laps and brought it in to check (there was a lot of spinning on the ice and snow, however) and shut it down when I saw where the temp was.

I thought I'd damaged the engine because I kept hearing a tinny clattering sound. As it turns out, I accidently had moved the trim slide toward the brake and it was causing the clutch bell to vibrate and clatter around.

I'm still fighting the high idle as well. I've adjusted the idle screw as much as I dare (down to a little less than 1mm). Finally I said screw it and drilled out the clutch shoes to lighten them up a bit. I'll see tomorrow if this helps any.

Thank you
-SlingItX

[ezequiel]

Here is a pic of what I use as a "TRS". Instead of using
an "O" ring or rubber band, I use the thing that girls
use to tie their hair. It has just good enough tension
to pull back the carb, and works even if the linkage
from the throttle servo comes off, plus it is good enough
to last as they can stand the chemicals girls use in their
hair, so I believe it won't have problems with nitro.
it's like 2 bucks for 25 pieces at walmart. :)

try "http://franzequiel.tripod.com/AUT_1449.JPG"

http://franzequiel.tripod.com/AUT_1449.JPG

[nitrodemon]

I'm thinking of trading in my T-maxx for an X-terminator, anyone interested?

[nad138]

Finally got mine on the track yesterday during my last tanks of break-in (6th-7th)... and sure did enjoy it zipping around the track. Did a couple of nose dives and tumbles and sure enough, nothing broke. Suspension was actually pretty good, I thought it was pretty stiff at first, but it was smooth sailing on the ryhthm section of the track. The tires that come with the kit did pretty good on loamy dirt. Only negative thing I noticed was that the battery pack lid opened during one of the tumbles, need to think of something to have this locked at all times. Things to do now is finetune the engine and have lots of practice. I just wished there's a place to buy sunshine (literally) :p Forecasts doesn't seem good on the weekends.

[nad138]

hey sling (or anybody)...what cooling head did you get for your 24.7 engine ? I saw a NOVA brand that has adjustable fins depending on the weather but don't know if it's any good. Also let me know where you got it from. tnx.

[SlingItX]

nad-

I bought the static cooling head, not the Thermal Control style. Honestly, I wasn't aware of the multiple setup head. I got mine from eBay - so I never went to the NOVA web site.

I'm a little frustrated that they would auction the head without having it in stock, though. I received a reply (following three emails of my own AND having already sent the money) that they were currently filling two weeks of backlog. Not good business, imo. And obviously their communication skills suck.

So, you may want to call ahead to see if they actually HAVE the item you're ordering. Believe me, if mine isn't shipped on or before March 8th I will have a bit of a problem.

oops, forgot to mention, CrazyNutRacing makes a pretty sharp looking heat sink as well.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling, ....that's a bummer.

That's why I ask the seller first before bidding. Also got a problem with my receiver, had paid it more than a week ago and here comes the seller saying his PC crashed and lost all his information. Sent him the item# and he came backing saying it's still with him ?????

Might as well use the AM first just to soothe the "itch":p

Later. nad

[SlingItX]

The Nova cooling head will be at my door Friday. It shipped today via Priority Mail. Sweet.

Now I just have to strip that nasty blue pipe and get it polished up. And give the buggy a much needed scrubbing from its last road run.

I richened the mix for outdoor runs in 20 deg temps and I'm still pushing the 260 degree mark. That's constant throttle heavy in the mid-range with the infrequent WOT shots. I just don't get it - maybe I need to hit WOT a little more, or richen the mix again although it's slightly blubbery now. I certainly hope the new head will resolve this issue. I'm going to try it inside tomorrow and see if it makes that big of a difference.

I'm also heading to the 'Shack' this weekend to pick up an IR Temp Gun as a backup and see just how accurate a reading I'm getting from the MIP.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling, let me know how the NOVA works, I might get one too. Right now, I'm waiting on a different one at ebay....hope to win it.

Weather is not good here in the past days so I still haven't tuned my engine. Hope forecast stays the same on the weekend.

l8r, nad.

[dagoson]

the post about the X-terminator caught my attention i have been gathering info on this buggy for a few months,I own a gs storm but dont care for it.so i am looking for something new, the last thing i read about the xtm buggy was in r/c car mag,they did a shootout between 5, 1/8 scale buggies the X-terminator won the shootout(may issue of r/c car I belive)and they loved the car,said that the motor had an endless power band smoking the compitition(all buggies were rtr)I am going to buy a new buggy and i am not worried about the .247 motor not being legal for ROAR or whoever it is legal where i race and ofna is putting in .25 motors now so is .21 really going to stay the standard? anyway i am torn between the xtm and the ofna a friend has the hyper 7 and i really like it but i dont know what to buy so any input on that would be appreciated ofna has so many different buggies its confusing, thanks and keep the rubber side down

[nad138]

Originally posted by dagoson
the post about the X-terminator caught my attention i have been gathering info on this buggy for a few months,I own a gs storm but dont care for it.so i am looking for something new, the last thing i read about the xtm buggy was in r/c car mag,they did a shootout between 5, 1/8 scale buggies the X-terminator won the shootout(may issue of r/c car I belive)and they loved the car,said that the motor had an endless power band smoking the compitition(all buggies were rtr)I am going to buy a new buggy and i am not worried about the .247 motor not being legal for ROAR or whoever it is legal where i race and ofna is putting in .25 motors now so is .21 really going to stay the standard? anyway i am torn between the xtm and the ofna a friend has the hyper 7 and i really like it but i dont know what to buy so any input on that would be appreciated ofna has so many different buggies its confusing, thanks and keep the rubber side down

Finally.....I really wanted to be the 100th post on this thread :D

I really wished OFNA joined that shootout, they could have sent R/C Car their whole batallion of RTR kits :p I don't want to do the "get the XTM and not the....." spiel here, if you have somebody in your local track with a car you're interested in, ask if you could drive it around and see if you like it. Since you already have experience with the Storm ( a pretty decent car if you ask me), you can probably gauge the performance of a different car (from your pov of course). If nobody has one, then go ahead and be different from norm, that's what I did (was really set on getting the Lightning, but the shootout came along...hehe).

What I really don't like with the car was the cooling head, too small, and temp really goes crazy if you don't watch it. Everything the mag said is there. Let us know what you get.

l8r, nad

[SlingItX]

nad-

Well, here's a shot of the head installed. I had to do some major cutting to the lexan body. The physical difference is huge. Unfortunately I haven't run it yet, I'll give you the low-down tomorrow afternoon.

dagoson-

The 9.5 MBX or the Hyper 7 are very nice buggies, but I'm obviously a little bias toward the XTM X-Terminator. That's a tough decision. They're all basically in the same price range when bought as RTR's. The only thing that really turned me away from OFNA was the attitude of customer service. I'd called them several times before making my decision - but I guess I was just annoying them. That's the impression I received anyway. That pretty much clinched it.

I envy you for the situation you're in. One of the best parts of getting a buggy (for me anyway) was the shopping around and the research.

I'm sure nad could offer a little more insight. He has a bit more R/C experience, AND track experience with the X-Terminator. I haven't even jumped mine yet, not really. I'm having a blast with the X-Terminator, that's all I can really say.

Enjoy.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling,

WOWOW....nice looking head you have there. :p I see you changed your springs at the back and going to a red motif...hehe.
Still waiting on the ofna head for mine.

Spent almost the whole day at the track today and man ... it sure had me grinning from ear to ear. It was crazy today, as Infernos, Hyper 7s, Storms, MBXs, etc. were flying everywhere. Things on my list to do now is to put on quad brakes, get better servo (hi-speed/throttle) for throttle/brake, boots on the rear and change to lighter shock oil. Rx still hasn't arrived so I'm still using the Hitec radio, sure wish it arrived earlier as I really missed the ARC function. The car was flat in the air during the jumps and bottoms up just right. The only place I think I had trouble was on the rhythm section. I couldn't lean it out too much as the temp was going up to 270-280. Now, all I need is lots of time to practice.

dagoson,

following url has the rcca review of the kit, this is addn review if you haven't seen it yet. Hope this makes your decision easier. Me and Sling are the only people here, we need MORE !!!!!!!

http://www.globalhobby.com/review/145601rcca.htm

[SlingItX]

LOL, you said a mouthful nad. Where the h3ll are all the XTM X-Terminator owners?

As for the 'red' motif... that was due to an excess amount of RIT dye. I used the recommended dosage of the orange-colored Tangerine liquid dye, and it went a little too far. I was hoping for a flourescent orange which I had going in the first 2 minutes of the dip. Another 2 minutes and I got the blood red thing going on. Oh well, it still looks pretty good. Everything turned out very uniform, so no complaints - and lesson learned.

I also bead-blasted the tuned pipe. That obnoxious blue was getting to me. Next step, aluminum servo horns.

I like your idea about the quad brake. I see the capacity is built right in. I ws hoping to go that route too, but they seem to be okay for me right now. So, I'll probably wait for a few weeks.

Right now the JR XS3 is the priority and getting the darn wires shortened. Once I do this I think I can get the failsafe in the receiver box and off the side of it. I would also like a different antenna mount - friction only lasts so long in most cases.

I'll be switching to Blue Thunder 20% nitro in the next week. I bought a gallon of fuel (as opposed to the quarts I'd purchased at first) and the only thing Rider's (lhs) carried was Blue Thunder. A little more oil content, but I doubt there will be a huge difference. I have heard about the gummy residue it may cause. We'll see...

I see that HobbyPeople.net also carry the various sizes of clutch bells. I'm going to order the 16t and 18t just to try out. Being isolated to the indoors and on-road runs it would be nice to have a little more top-end speed to play with.

[nad138]

Sling, it might just be the angle when you took the pic, but is the head taller than the rear shock tower ?

BTW, nice ride.

[dagoson]

nice looking buggy for sure,and thanks for the info the more i can get the better it is. like i said before i like a few different ofna buggys but they confuse me because there are so many different ones.I like the xtm for alot of little things they have done and the bigger motor so more reserch on the ofna side of it,and maybe i will catch a good spring sale somewhere.I need a rebild on my storm motor or a new one (my first nitro car) any suggestioons for me there? 80% of the people i race with have storms a few ofnas and kyosho so getting the xtm would deffinatly be a being different thing

[nad138]

dagoson, if I were just to pick one off of the ofna kits, I'd get the new 9.5 MBX kit. With the .25 engine (you said it doesn't matter at your track) and some cool additions like the included fail safe plus the orange anodizing :p

my .02 cents on a new engine would be the OS V01B.

nad

[SlingItX]

nad-

FYI, yes, the head is taller than the rear shock tower by 15mm (over a half inch)! I didn't get to run it today, unfortunately, as I was a bit tied up rabbit hunting with a friend. So nothing to report on the temp issues. Hopefully tomorrow morning I'll have it out for a quick stroll in the street.

dagoson-

I agree with nad on his recommendation; for the price you get a bit more with the 9.5 MBX including parts availability and hop-ups. Craig (from GlobalProducts - the US distributor of XTM) mentioned that there would be more hop-ups available in the near future, and I'm looking forward to it, for sure. I'm not knocking the XTM X-Terminator. I love this buggy. It would be nice to see you get one. But, it's your choice, of course.

I have to disagree with nad on the engine recommendation, however. I would get the CMB EVO2 LSi. This is on my list for later in the year after my wife recovers from the initial shock of the buggy itself.

Thank you both for the compliments. I just need to get a new body on that bad boy and I'll be happy... for now. Any suggestions for a paint pattern? I'm leaning toward a simple black and white angle pattern. I just don't like busy patterns from someone going crazy with paint masks, jmho.

-SlingItX

[nitrodemon]

Hey guys, in general how would you rate the xterminator against some of the other RTR big block buggies?

[nad138]

dagoson, I'd guess you could take Sling's engine recommendation as I think he's been doing some pretty intensive research on this. I based mine on stats (with the recent race at uruguay).

Sling, I'd suggest putting some cable ties on the top fin to protect the head during rolls. As for the body, I'm waiting on my crowd pleaser and see if it fits. You could go with a red/black paint combo to compliment your "red" motif (no pun intended...;) ). I'm tired of the flames pattern, I'd go with some aztec design. Ever thought of getting on-road tires on your ride, so you could save the one that came along with the kit ?

Hey nitro, the only big block RTR I've seen on the track besides my XTM (.247) was the 9.5 MBX (.25) from OFNA. I don't know if there are other kits with >.21 engines in the market. I'd say that neither would leave the other on a race. It's usually the guy "behind the wheel" that determines the outcome. Like recently, I let my friend who's got plenty of experience racing to try my ride and he sure fired up the track with it (which I confess needs lots of time to catch up to that kind of skill).

l8r dudes. nad

[SlingItX]

nad-

I just put them on tonight. I had forgotten until you mentioned it. I'm sure I would have regretted NOT doing it once I had flipped for the first time. Ouch.

I think I will go with a black, red and a little white up front on the next body. I like the Aztec design as well, but I'm leaning toward the Incan. It's still a while before I decide though. Good suggestion. Be sure to post regarding the fit of the Crowd Pleazer body on the XTM - which one, btw? The 7.5/9.5 or the Mugen?

I do have some on-road tires - I bought the DuraTrax Street Traction tires. They're not too bad, but really don't get very sticky in 20 deg weather. So I'm still doing alot of sliding in the turns, but not as badly as with the pins. Anyway, I'm breaking out the balloons for this weekend; rain, snow, ice... whatever. It's going outside and I'm going to tear up my father-in-laws field.

Busted, I have done a bit of research on different engines and the OS V01B ranked right up there with the Rossi Black Magic, but I have a thing for products that aren't run of the mill and the CMB is VERY impressive. I had a chance to see one run Saturday afternoon. Wow. It does at .21 what the .247 dreams about. I don't know, it's a tough call, but it's easy to spend someone else's money ;)

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Ahhhh...yes, that feeling of spending somebody elses money :D

I agree that you need to dirty up your ride soon ...looks like it's been in the car wash too often already...haha.

I got the 7.5. Hope I don't need to trim a lot to make it fit.

nad

[SlingItX]

I noticed today while starting the buggy that the NOVA cooling head is acting like quite a large 'antenna'. I just tapped the head with the igniter and the servos spasmed.

I've never seen this so severe before - okay, it's not terrible, but it's not something I'll ignore either. Is there something I could do to better isolate the electronics?

BTW, the head works wonderfully. I actually had to lean the engine to get it UP to temperature even in this cold weather. I was easily running in the 220 deg range. I really need to get an IR Temp Gun though to double check since the MIP sensor wire doesn't get as close to the glow plug as I'd like.

Appreciate any input regarding the glitching.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling, I'd try to check if the electronics (wires, etc.) aren't exposed and touching any metal. I recall you were saying figuring out how your rx and failsafe will fit the box, that might be it.

Good to know that the heads serving it's purpose.

nad

[dagoson]

ok guys, I went and looked at the ofna carsand im still confused with them because i found the 9.5 mbx rtr,the 9.5mbx pro rtr,ultra mbx pro, i mean my gosh I think I am going to have to buy the xtm because ofna makes so many cars its not worth my time to try to figure out which one will be best for me,but what keeps pulling me back is a price i found in the tower hobbie add in the april rcca $309 for a ultra gt lx pro rtr,what a price for a 1/8 scale rtr. anyway if you guys no anything about this buggy let me know cause i really like the price,but i want a race buggy not a toy i consider the xtm a race buggy even if there are still alot of skeptics with it.so give me some more input if you have any and help me spend my WIFES money lol

[nad138]

Originally posted by dagoson
ok guys, I went and looked at the ofna carsand im still confused with them because i found the 9.5 mbx rtr,the 9.5mbx pro rtr,ultra mbx pro, i mean my gosh I think I am going to have to buy the xtm because ofna makes so many cars its not worth my time to try to figure out which one will be best for me,but what keeps pulling me back is a price i found in the tower hobbie add in the april rcca $309 for a ultra gt lx pro rtr,what a price for a 1/8 scale rtr. anyway if you guys no anything about this buggy let me know cause i really like the price,but i want a race buggy not a toy i consider the xtm a race buggy even if there are still alot of skeptics with it.so give me some more input if you have any and help me spend my WIFES money lol

dagoson, frankly, that's the same thing I was thinking about OFNA cars. The way I look at this is, OFNA's not just competing against other manufacturers/dealers but they're also competing against themselves :eek: I really didn't spend any effort understanding the differences between their products but I suggest shooting some posts in OFNA threads, they'll likely know about it. Before the new 9.5 MBX came out, I fancied the Hyper 7 and never looked at the others...except maybe for the new Hyper 7 PBS (comes with a starter box. glow starter, glow plug and, fuel bottle ...hehe...I'm starting to look like an advertiser for OFNA ...LOL).

for my .02 cents again, if you're in a bugget but still wanting to get a "future" racing buggy, I'd suggest getting a HB Lightning. Costs like $335 (RTR) and from what I've read, it's almost a mirror image of the Kyosho Inferno except for differences between materials used and/or manufactured. Head over to the Lightning RR thread and read some older posts there.

BUT OF COURSE, AT THE END OF THE DAY, CONSIDER THE X-TERMINATOR !!!!!!!!!!!

I don't want to make your head spin with suggestions but you need to hurry as summer's fast approaching .....that and the wife might take your cookie jar money away.....no pressure ;)

[SlingItX]

dagoson-

The first place I would go (if I were you) is to OFNA.com and check out their forum. Alot of dedicated OFNA guys hang out there and MANY newbies wanting to know about the buggies. You'll have your specific questions answered, I'm sure.

Anyway, the 9.5 comes in three different models - the 9.5 MBX, the 9.5 RTR and the 9.5 Pro. The fundamental differences are as follows - the 9.5 MBX has the pivot ball suspension, the 9.5 RTR has the c-hub design and the 9.5 has alot of hop-ups (graphite, titanium, f/r/c CVA's, etc.) but no engine or electronics. OFNA does include carrying bags and a tool or two with their buggies as added incentive.

Now, the Ultra LX Pro has crappy axles and steering knuckles. You'll hear about this on their forum. I would not recommend this buggy if you have any desire to race.

In all honesty, if I were to make a recommendation for OFNA it would be the 9.5 MBX or the Hyper 7 RTR. HOWEVER, I am a fan of the X-Terminator and would willingly push you this direction. Either way, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Keep in mind, the buggy itself is the cheapest part of this 'hobby'. Fuel, wheels, tires, shock oils, diff lubes, batteries, beefier servos, etc. No matter what buggy you end up getting it will end up like every other one out there when you start wrenching on it and deciding what you want to improve to help make it competitive.

Of course you can avoid alot of fuss right now if you just by the MP 7.5 Kanai Edition or the Mugen MBX5 :P They're both race ready, literally (no engine, pipe or electronics). But so are their price tags! You'd easily sink $1200 into either buggy and you'd have virtually everything but the skill (not a slam, I'm just saying you can't buy skill).

Ask yourself how serious you're going to be and stay sane when thinking about upgrades. Keep it realistic and just have some fun. Remember, almost any buggy can be competitive (within reason) in the hands of a skilled driver.

-SlingItX

[SlingItX]

nad, you beat me to it! LOL

BTW, I second your motion on the HotBodies Lightning - It had completely slipped my mind 'til you mentioned it just now.

I was looking around eBay and saw that they've gone for as little as $300. I've heard nothing but good things on various other forums. For $350 retail it would be tough to beat.

Good call nad.

-SlingItX

[dagoson]

thanks again for your time guys,I have been driving r/c cars for about 17 years im just new to nitro last summer was my first summer with my gs storm (got it used) and would just like to get something that will run good with some quality parts so im busy playing not wrenching although i now that wrenching comes with it just looking to get the most bang for my buck. and as far a summer I still have about 6 inches of snow it will be a little bit before its nice enough to get our group together and I am still leaning to the xterminator just exploring all my options

[nad138]

Finally managed to break something...my front right lower suppension arms gave in after loosing traction and slide towards the wall...ouch. Now, I'm just twiddling my thumbs waiting for my replacement:( . That's what parts unavailability will cost you...so I'm calling out peeps out there to come on in and join in on having one of these cars for this purpose.

Now, I'm thinking of getting a "substitute" car while the main one's not running.

l8r - nad

[SlingItX]

Sorry to hear that nad. Down time sucks. HobbyPeople are quite fast in my opinion. Some of the best service I've had from an online dealer.

I had an audience today at the shop. About a dozen guys stopped to check out the buggy. I'm hoping at least one of them will be encouraged to buy one for themselves - that way I have someone to run with.

Running great after I dialed the idle back up. I'm getting very frustrated with this idle situation. I think I'm going to look for a stronger clutch spring. And I'm still running a bit rich, but the heat is generally peaking right around 240 degs.

I'm going to add a bit of castor oil to my fuel mix (oil content is only 12%) and switch to a colder plug, maybe an MC-9 - or am I supposed to go to a hotter plug to cool the engine down (I know, stupid question)?

Thanks.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling,

yeah, sure is a bummer....fortunately, I have my NTC3 ready to roll after some problems with a stripped screw head.

I noticed that too with mine and I saw that the carb isn't closing near the suggested 1mm opening. Try replacing the spring for the throttle or adjust the spring/linkage so that at neutral, it's at full retracted position.

240F during idle or after some hard running ? I usually range from 230F-260F ... and if I don't watch the fuel level in the tank, it reaches ~270F briefly when it's about to dry up.

For the plug, during break-in - use a hot one. After that, use a colder plug.

- nad

[SlingItX]

Nad-

Appreciate the response. And now that you mention it, I did notice a spike in the temp as the tank neared empty. I assume because it's getting air through the fuel line, causing it to run lean?

What I meant by peaking at 240 deg's was that it's the highest point (I observed) while running it hard.

I've adjusted the linkage to close the carb fully against the idle screw when at neutral, but it just does not like to idle that low. Until I opened the idle screw to the factory setting, I couldn't get it to stay running after I started it - maybe 4 seconds before it would shut itself off. Once I opened it up, voila - idles great, but too high. Aargh.

Thanks for the advice on the plug. I'll be switching this weekend to the McCoy MC-9 or maybe the Top Turbo Plug #7 or #8. Figured I might just as well pick some up while I'm grabbing the castor oil.

-SlingItX

[SlingItX]

Well, I found the sweet spot for the idle finally. It actually idled for just over one minute before loading up a bit too much. A couple blips and it was blown out well enough to rip out some pretty good rpm's without bogging down.

Now, how do I prevent it from cutting out when it starts winding out at higher rpm's? Whenever I reach WOT or try to open the throttle too quickly (just by punching the trigger) it simply flames out - complete shut down. Too lean, too rich, restricted air flow, air leak, etc.? I'm stumped.

BTW, a little problem tonight. I hit quite a large pothole that was on the downside of hill I was driving the buggy over (I didn't see it), the front end plunged in and... let's just say the front end came to an abrupt halt while the back end proceeded to come up and over and land ever so gracefully on my newly dyed wing. The shock tower survived well enough but the wing uprights acted as levers and proceeded to crack the mounts on top of the gear case. Bye-bye wing, bye-bye gear case.

So nad, I've joined you in the ranks of the temporarily buggie-less. LOL, this sucks.

-SlingItX

[SlingItX]

Good opportunity to do a little cleaning and maybe a diff rebuild...

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling, nice pics man ...LOL. I could imagine how your face looked like when the car was doing what you described in slow motion.

About flaming out, it sounds like your low speed needle is too lean. What I do when I hit the point where just a twitch on the throttle launches the car forward, I adjust the LSN back 1/8 of a turn just to make sure I didn't lean it out too much.

Have fun rebuilding your car.

- nad

[dagoson]

Hey sling and nad sry about your r/c woes but you know as well as me thats how it goes you pay when you play,get them back to gether and tearing up the track again. alright i have come to the decision to buy the xtm my bro and bro in-law are going to get there first nitro and have opted for the 9.5 mbx so i am now searching for a hobby shop that will give me a deal on 3 cars. I called tower and some others noone wants to deal at all not even free shipping (without a coupon) so if you guys know a hobby shop that will deal on an order close to $1500 let me know so i can get my XTM tearing up something :D thanks guys have fun

[nad138]

dagoson,

I sent ya a pm.

-nad

[nad138]

Parts came in and already installed. Just in time for my "spring break" from work :p ....yahoooo. And a weather forecast of nothing but sun and cool breeze.

I'd probably be experimenting on my shocks and see what's the best oil weight I'd use for my LHS' track. Need to check what springs are available also.

Craig also sent me some pics on new front / rear shock towers 5mm thick. Should be out soon.

have fun guys.

[nad138]

anybody here ?:p

dagoson, have you bought your buggy yet ?

Sling, how's it going ?

ever since the rebuilding of this site, seems all threads are quiet.

-nad

[SlingItX]

nad-

Still here, just very busy lately. Finally got the parts ordered and installed. I never did mess with the diffs or shocks - like I said, just short on time for the next few weeks. Plus I have to get the new stuff dyed to match everything else :)

We're getting predictions of rain for the rest of the week mixed with some snow. Figures, I might have some time to finally run the buggy again and the weather goes south on me. It's been clear and dry for the past week and hovering in the high 50's - fix the buggy, and voila... crap weather.

BTW, based on how my gear case broke, I'm not sure thicker towers would solve this issue. I'm having a friend at work machine a modified gear case for me (top half to be used with a bastardized portion of the plastic one). After looking over the design it's relatively clear that it needs to be a bit beefier to sustain a few 'blows' - yes, mine was a little excessive, granted, but the ears on top of the gear case and the shock tower support aren't enough to prevent stripping and cracking in case of a misfortunate accident. Shiny side up, I know, I know... :P

Look closely at the ears though, two very large diameter holes in each one make them very weak. I'll try to have the piece done soon and post photos. Now if XTM offered an aluminum gear case and tower supports... hhmmmm, now we're talkin'.

I did find some time to pick up my new JR XS3 - hee, hee, hee. I love it. No regrets what-so-ever.

-SlingItX

[dagoson]

Hey guys, no new buggy yet i am waiting for my tax check before i buy it so i can get a different head and servo right away,and waiting for my bro's to get there $ together so we can get them all at the same time. our track isnt open yet so i am being as patient as possible. but they better hurry cause i want mine yesterday lol. alright take it easy guys I will keep checking back to see if any problems arise with this car but i just dont see anyone having major probs with this car so cool beans i say. Oh i seen something, have you guys seen the new picco motor due out this month it is a .26 i am looking for info on it what i know so far-> $169 2.7 hp 37000 rpm alright guys see ya

[nad138]

it's the ofna/picco .26 outlaw alright. I got me the hyper 21 8 port turbo, but haven't fired it up.

later dudes.

[SlingItX]

nad-

I'm sure you will... but please post on what you think of the Hyper 8-port. I'm considering it as a backup engine and a regular for my second buggy. Yes, I'm eye-balling another one. It's like a disease. I'll let you know if I decide to go through with it.

Also, did you go with the pull-start version or are you using a bump box?

-SlingItX

[nad138]

sling, I got the one with the pull starter (even though I have a box) off of ebay. Looking at the manual included, it seems that it's better to get a pull start as it has boost capability and some other ways to preserve the life of the engine. Though I haven't seen some post about this theory.

I'm thinking of getting an RZ-V01B as my main engine but kinda thinking of just rebuilding my OMEGA which is a pretty nice engine (but hard to tune).

-nad

[nad138]

I forgot to include, the regular hyper 21 8 port engine needs to be hot which takes a while before you notice the power to be up there. We just had a race last Sat. and 2 of my buddies uses this engine and without practice laps, they noticed that power kicks in after around 2 mins. into the race.

[SlingItX]

nad-

[off topic]
Well.... I went and did it. I picked up a Thunder Tiger EB4. Still very loyal to my X-Terminator - I really am liking it more and more since running it off-road. The weather is going to crap again this week - it's hanging right around 30deg's this morning - so, I'll be biding my time for the next few days.
[on topic]

I hope to be getting a new engine in the next few weeks. The 8-port Hyper .21 pullstart sounds like the one. Although there are a few people complaining about its expected longevity and frequent failures of the pullstart. I plan on getting a starter box at the same time just as back up and when the engine is being stubborn (or I'm being stupid). Based on $'s alone I think the Hyper .21 is pretty tough to beat from everything I've read and heard.

Now, my dream engine is the CMB 21EVO2 LSI Buggy. The mod would be nice, but I'll settle for the standard ;) Maybe in a few months after I aquire some sedatives for my wife.

BTW, I assume you're referring to the Picco/Omega? Is it the Competition, Super Competition or the Sport? I don't know that much about them. Did you have to modify the engine mounts in the X-Terminator?

One more question; do you know if the MIP racing clutch will fit in the X-Terminator? I think I'm going to have to drill my shoes AGAIN. Even idling low (which I finally fixed) I notice the clutch bell will rattle once in a while. Maybe it's normal, but I don't like it.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

Sling,

Lol, actually I also got me a Kanai I which I am currently building.:p

The Picco/Omega .21 Super Comp is the one I have. I got tired of the 24.7 (I just can't stand the head) as I have to pump it up before I can get the power I need to clear doubles/triples after a turn. It's a direct bolt in.

I agree with the price factor on the Hyper .21 8 port, that's why I took it off the bat when I saw it (off course after seeing it in action).

I haven't tried the MIP racing clutch, sorry. I too had that rattling sound but after I fixed the mesh, it was fine.

[fuzzylogic]

Will the carb from other manufacturers fit the .247? The stock one is crap and mine's leaking from the side wall.

[nad138]

I'm sorry but I am not sure about that one. I've checked both my omega and hyper's carb and am sure that xtm's smaller.

Try checking with Craig Kaplan at globalhobbies' forum. I'm sure he'll know.


- nad

[SlingItX]

Cheese and rice nad, I still suffer from the pucker factor when my buggy goes airborn over two feet!

I'll continue to beat on the XTM .247 until it's tired, then switch to the Hyper 8-port or the XTM Pro .21. Craig had mentioned the XTM in an email, but I haven't heard much about it as far as performance. If it's worth the extra $50 (compared to the Hyper 8-port) I'll probably give it a shot.

I just had the buggy out this afternoon in a local park near an elementary school. BIG mistake even though it's spring break right now. Like flies to crap the kids came swarming! I even had a Sheriff stop and ask me if it was 'gas' or electric. I instantly went into paranoid mode and wondered if I should leave. He just laughed and said 'no, it's city property anyway - wait 'til they ask you to leave if it's a problem.' So screw it - I ran it, and I ran it fast and loud.

Well, the kids weren't a problem at first, but they decided they wanted to try to 'catch it'. Needless to say, I packed it up and called it a day. I REALLY need to find a BMX track!

All in all it was a good day, only flipped it twice :P but I didn't break anything.

[off topic] The EB4 should be ready to run by next week ;)

-SlingItX

[nad138]

***out of topic***

Hey Sling, did some digging on the CMB engine you mentioned earlier. I'm kinda liking the long tapered design piston/sleeve concept. It kinda denotes a longer life period on the piston/sleeve.

Since I'm still hard up tuning different engines (italian made vs us made), another one that runs colder than usual might totally throw me off in getting the correct setup. Have you scored any break in notes/manuals on this engine (either a raptor or the evo2) ?

-nad

[SlingItX]

[off topic]

nad-

I recommend visiting http://www.reidrc.com under the Tech Tips link. I can't find anything at Ashford Hobbies' site as mbx4xracer recommended. Maybe I'm just blind... ?

I haven't seen another one run since I was down in Ann Arbor a month or two ago, but that was enough to convince me that this was the engine for me. The Rossi Black Magic is very impressive also from everything I've been reading, however, I haven't seen it and I'm not overly fond of the price tag.

The EVO2 LSi Buggy is the one for me. I actually read somewhere that there's one floating around with more than 30 gallons through it! Even if that's exagerated, half that amount would be impressive. It's a shame they're not as popular as Novarossi, RB or OS engines. Well... maybe it isn't a shame. Maybe that's why they're a little more conservitively priced?

If you beat me to it you better post EVERY day on the break-in and EVERY day on regular runs (at least for the first week)! LOL! I'm completely jealous. I'm another two months away with the engine fund.

Good luck!

-SlingItX

[nad138]

[off topic again]

Sling, found one at mycmb.com. I'll probably wait for the composite carburator. That flat slide seems to "alien" for me :D

[dagoson]

full of a 1/8 scale monster called the X-Terminator lol so now i have to find a good way to break in this motor and i will be winning some races i hope i dont have pics but you guys know what the stock buggy looks like after a new head and pipe i will work on the pics and i was reading a little about the carb thing is it smaller? and if so can i get a different one?

[SlingItX]

Dagoson-

Congratulations! Let us know how the break-in goes for you. What fuel did you decide to go with?

I found the best way to get it going (without a starter box) is to prime it well by blowing in the exhaust line. Maybe this adds humidity as some people have said, but I've not noticed any ill side effects. I have a starter box now so don't have to worry about it.

You shouldn't have to worry about Loc-Titing everything - XTM has all ready done it. But you may want to go through and double check everything JIC. Particularly ther engine mount screws.

I did my breakin exactly like the manual described and have had NO problems. Run it like you're going to normally - but in short periods.

BTW, what did you mean by the 'carb thing' you'd mentioned?

[off topic, again]
nad- I have MyCMB.com in my favorites list but am biding my time until it's in the budget. I didn't see any really good tech tips there though. Did I miss something? I also noticed on ReidRC.com that MAC will be coming out with an engine very similar to the CMB series - I think the cost will be pretty high up there however. BTW, I have the EB4 up and running. I'm impressed by the buggy, but not the OS RG engine - even leaned out.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

dagoson,

congratulations on your new "toy"...have fun and post questions or any suggestions along the way.

sling,

mycmb.com detailed the needle settings and how to break it in (both with the flat slide and the composite carb). When you buy the engine, there is no manual that comes along with it.

I've also divided my time on my xtm and kanai. I'll be running the kanai this coming weekend ... hope I make good lap times.

-nad

[dagoson]

hey guys,
the carb thing was that guy that said it was a peice of junk and is leaking from the sidewall? and is it smaller than the .21 carbs? and i am using odonell fuel every thing seems to be going well so far I LIKE IT I dont know how it is going to stack up yet because i havent been out to the track but it seems to be faster than my storm. and did anyone change the clutch bell on there car i am running a really fast track so i might want to go up a tooth or 2
alright guys have fun and try not to tear em up

[SlingItX]

dagoson-

The carb shouldn't be a problem. Mine's been off and on several times without a problem. If you're concerned, seal it up. As for being 'smaller' than a .21 carb; I certainly don't see a problem with lack of power (as in too restrictive). It has a lot more balls than an OS RG I just picked up used. The RG may be going bye-bye to OSRocket for a 're-sizing' - it just doesn't seem to have alot of uumph. If this is an example of the 'standard' .21's available performance... I'm not impressed. I've seen what 'race' .21's can do so I doubt I'll settle for anything less ever again.

I've ran the 15t clutch bell with impressive results. Definitely a noticeable difference in top-end speed. And less of an impact on the low-end than I expected, but it is there (or should I say 'less there'?) ;) For a technical track with a long straight-a-way I'd compromise and settle on the 14t bell. A little more top speed but still maintaining the bite. Maybe on the fast track you're running the 15t or 16t will suit you well - be sure to report back.

When you have a chance to take some pics try to get some action photos. Trying to get my wife out to take them for me is a bit of a hassle. She tolerates it when I take over the dining room table, but to stand next to an 8 pound heap flying through the air next to her head... well, that's pushing it.

nad-

The 8mm flat carb seems to be a decent compromise to the 7mm and 9mm composite. A little more fuel economy than the 9mm and a little more flow power than the 7mm. Looks pretty interesting to me. It may just end up finding a home in the X-Terminator in the next month or so (might have to put a boot in the budget's a$$). BTW, I retract my statement earlier about the EVO2 LSi, I meant to say the Raptor is the one I want. Ah hell, I admit it - I'll take either at this point :D.

-SlingItX

[fuzzylogic]

Does anyone know if an rb or nova carb will fit on the 247?

[SlingItX]

fuzzylogic-

Throw some calipers on the carb(s) and check the outside diameter of the insert and the throat in the engine. If I feel like tearing the carb off my .247 again tonight I'll at least give you the inside diameter of the throat on the engine.

-SlingItX

[nad138]

dagoson, I'll also try the 14t in your case but if there's more straights than turns, bump it up to 15t or 16t. in my lhs' track, it's more technical so I left it at 13t, so I'd get the oomph out that corner.

sling, now that the os rzv01b kinda dropped it's price in tower, I'm having a hard time deciding which one to get. OS I know is pretty easy to tune, unlike the cmb which I still need to see one to appreciate. Was sending emails with kanairacer and he said that if it's speed you need, go for the Raptor and if it's torque you need, go for the evo2, but if you have the budget, go for the moded evo2.

have fun guys.
-nad

[dagoson]

Hey guys I might try the 16t because what we run is basically like a triangle and most of the time you are balls out so as long as i have time to reach top end with the 16 that should do it maybe a 15 still not sure and i dont want to be a dog off the line,as far as the action photos go i have no digital camera just a web cam so unless i jump it through my living room(my wife will kill me lol) i cant do thatalright i am going to get some prices on a new clutch bell and see what i buy but besides all that This Buggy Rocks it would beat my storm up and down the track

[SlingItX]

dagoson-

HobbyPeople.net have the XTM clutch bells for around $15-$16. Off-brand bells go for around $17 and up. I'll be venting my clutch bell sometime next week (a little government work). I think this will help keep the composite clutch shoes a little cooler during the on-off throttle driving. You most likely won't have that problem on a full throttle track.

I have no complaints about the .247 engine either. Even when it's not leaned out fully it still seems to have what it takes. I know it's not a high dollar race engine, but it really is a good, solid running mill.

Yeah, you may want to stay in the good graces of your wife. I know it helps me when I push the limits a little ;)

-SlingItX

PS: nad, be sure to let us know how your Kanai ran this weekend?

[nad138]

(off topic)

The weekend was fun...we got like 50 entries in the 1/8 scale. Qualified at #21 but finished #27. We really had some pros in the race as their lap times were pretty fast. Well, there's still lots of room for improvement.

[SlingItX]

Went to the first meet of the year for a local club, it was a good time. Around 10 buggies showed up (all of them OFNA) but we were seriously outnumbered by monster trucks... whatever ;)

It was fun just bashing around with the other guys and picking up a few tips here and there from way more experienced guys. On the other hand there were several newbies as well so I didn't feel too out of place.

The X-Terminator held its own, I'm proud to say. Right up until I flamed out... weird situation, but I could find nothing wrong and it ran just fine after I got it home that evening. Just weird.

One of the guys even ran his buggy off the roof of the pavilion - 12 feet up and he put it square onto the lid. The tuned pipe was flopping around but no more damage. Then he did it again and bottomed the chassis out, hit the flywheel and stalled it - no damage. Absolutely nuts.

[off topic]
Congrats nad. A decent showing imho, considering you've only owned it a few weeks. Keep it up!

-SlingItX

[nad138]

thanks Sling, you should have asked the guy to do the cyrul house jumping...lol.

I've decided to use my xterminator for on-road use and the kanai for off-road. I've bought racing slicks with cool wheels for my xtm. Now that I've had 2 buggies, there are still plenty of room for improvement for the xtm. I'd heavily suggest to change the shaft screw holding the hubs to screw and nut.

dagoson, how's it going ?

- nad

[big kal]

Hey guys...I just got an X-Terminator buggy. It looks sweet. Is there anything that I need to know before I fire her up? What temps are normal for 24.7?

[VIPER X-F]

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/index.php

[SlingItX]

Hey! We need him here too! LOL

Not that I'm complaining, but we need some fresh blood here. I think dagoson, nad138 and I are the only ones that have been posting.

Just make sure you send big kal back on occasion ;)

-SlingItX

[nad138]

To : Whoever needs help in x-terminators

Just post whatever questions you have either here or at Global's forum and guys here are more than welcome to answer your questions to the best of our .... experience ?...hehe.

big kal,
there are some posts here that might answer your immediate needs, as for the temp on the 24.7 engine, I usually try to run mine at 250F-270F.


- nad

[big kal]

I'll be at the Global Hobby boards for my X-Terminator. :D

[dagoson]

Hey guys all is well with mine so far,a couple of us are going to take our buggies to the only real track in michigan it is about 2 hours away if you look in the reginal forum there are pics up of the track it looks cool to me but it is the only 1/8 scale track i have ever seen the table top is 9' tall anyway i will let you know how it goes but all is well with the buggy it runs and handles better than my storm

[killarush]

Hi guys,

I just thought I'd come and show my face as a potential new member to the X-terminator crew. I live in the UK, so out here they arent labelled under the XTM name, instead theyre called the GV Rex-X. RC Racer mag did a review and that is really what caught my eye. Lots of kit, for a very low price.

The only real difference is the engine included and the std paint scheme (XTM one looks better IMO). The engine included is the Force .21 (same as the Duratrax Force .21) and to be honest is probably a little mild in terms of performance. And because of this, I am considering selling the stock Force .21 on Ebay, and buying a Ofna Hyper 8 port to stick in there. Should be a pretty good match hopefully.

Well, I have found a shop that carries the kit for just UK£179.99 RTR (US$288) which i think is an amazing price for a kit with such a high specification.

I just need to sell my HPI Rush racer and then it'll be all steam ahead for the Rex-X. I'll keep you updated with whether it all goes ahead or not but it's looking more likely as the days go by.

=chris=

[SlingItX]

killa-

Welcome to the XTM 'family' - well, soon enough anyway :)

That has to be the least expensive price I've seen on an X-Terminator (or Rex-X in your case). I'm a little jealous. You can throw the cash you're saving into a better tx/rx and some hop-ups.

As for the Hyper 8-port, I don't think you can go wrong from what I've heard and seen. nad138 is more suited than I to comment, as he's done exactly that - switched to the Hyper 8-port. If he's put the MP6 down long enough I'm sure he can give you a good idea of what to expect ;) lol

dagoson-

After your trip to the track could you post an evaluation? I know it looks good, but any more info would be great; Practice hours, race hours, cost, better directions to get there, etc. I live in central Michigan and it's within reasonable driving distance, so I might like to head over there. Also, how'd your racing adventure go on the track, break any parts? :D

-SlingItX

[killarush]

SlingItX -

Yeh I was extremely suprised to find a price that low, especially here in the UK. We normally have to pay extortionate prices for kits and engines (normal price for rex-x is £250 = $400).

The difference between the two kits is also that the Rex-X does not even come with a radio set. Instead I will be buying a cheap Acoms Techniplus 27mhz radio to get it going, along wit 2 x Futaba S3004 featherweight, ballraced servos. I have gone through a lot of cheap radios in my time and this one was the best quality IMO.

That means the total cost to get the rex-x going is £230 ($368) so there isnt much difference all in all.

www.three5models.co.uk have been testing the Rex-X over the last few months, and said that it performed very well on the track. All that was needed to make it feel 'dialed in' was a change in shock oil weights. sound good...

=chris=

[nad138]

killa, nice to hear some guys across the pond is thinking about getting one of these buggies. In your question about the Hyper 8 port, go for it. I got the Hyper 21 8-Port Race version (with pull-start) in it and sure could haul a$$. One thing about it though is it needs to be run hot, around 260-280F. But there's a trick to it to get cooling though when you're not pulling on the throttle. Let us know if you do get it and I'll try and help you out if you have some questions on it. As an FYI, check the o-rings and sleeve for the carb before you break it in. As for the electronics, just don't limit yourself to a cheap radio/rx and servos. I'll be worthwhile in the long run. For the price, I'll say get it now and hopefully your MT will sell soon.

later,
nad

[killarush]

Hi,

thanks for the help nad138.

If i was able to buy the Rex-x at this moment in time, I'd be straight on the phone and get one ordered. The only problem being is that I'm 15yrs old, with not a lot of money, lol.

I also have an old Beta Tr34 motorbike which needs fixing up which is where a lot of my money goes, so I must sell the Rush before I buy the buggy.

As for the radio gear, the problem with English prices is that you can either have a very cheap std radio, or a top-spec race radio. The cheap radios go for about £20, and then there is nothing on sale until about £100- £120 on top of that.

I'm considering buying a cheap radio to get the car going, and then buy a better one later on down the line. I'll be able to sell the old one on quite quickly anyway as theyre always in demand.

cheers...

=chris=

[dagoson]

cool sling i didnt know you were in mich also. we didnt go to the track yet, the guys were not ready to go still getting there cars in shape and we didnt want to look real bad out there lol. I will let you know about if after we go if you get there first let me know. the back yard we race in here by detroit is turning into a track too so some of them have been busy building it. I dont know all the practice times but they race on sundays.I am trying to get the new picco .26 as soon as i can find it in stock somewhere but i am going to put that in my storm and leave the xterminator motor alone. so for now more backyard revs whilei wait to race cya guys

[uDi_MP75]

My friend drives a Rex-X too (here in aussieland) and with all due respect, its a real neat car. Wouldn't have too much trouble reccomending it to anyone, especially for that price!! damn if only that thing existed a few years ago :D

nad - what do you think of it compared to the K car? I thought that for a third of the price or whatever, the rex does everything mine does fine... I still prefer the K, but that pricetag makes it kind of unbeatable!

[cool head]

well i just bought an x-terminator for $150. needs an engine. i'll rob that off my ofna! but have any of you guys busted any parts? what do you suggest for spares? i plan on racing, so if you guys have had any luck at the track please elaborate! has anyone won an a-main with an x-terminator?

[dragracer28]

What do you think about the new "Full Option" buggy. Is it worth the extra money does it come with the new 6 port 24.7. It looks like a nice buggy to start with and do lots of bashing maybe racing

[BoogerB]

I havent been able to even find a thing about it online.... do you have any links or anything? I've just seen the small article in r/c car.

[SlingItX]

Hey guys-

The Deluxe version will be released late July/early August - if you're willing to wait that long, it will be worth it, imo.

It will have a blue/black color matched look, carbon parts, 7075 parts, machined parts, the big engine head, racing pipe, metal gear servo, and Hitec Aggressor Radio. And with any luck the gear case dog ears will be a whole lot beefier ;) I guess it's supposed to retail somewhere around $490.

FYI: It will not come with the XTM .247 Pro engine.

The actual 'Pro' edition buggy will not be available until Xmas if you're waiting for this one (no engine, no electronics) - every hop-up imaginable. It ought to be very nice.

-SlingItX

[RCisLife]

There's a sale at HobbyPeople . com for this (est. 2.6hp) XTM .21 Pro Engine for only $99.99 bucks. That's half off of its original price of $199.99. Do any of you guys recommend this engine? Its going to be a back up engine for my Kyosho 7.5

Is there any pros and cons for this? I've done research on it but haven't found any responses to it....
any help is appreciated. Thanks

[cool head]

ITS A GREAT ENGINE. FOR $99 I'D GET 2. excellent throttle response, easy to tune and have 3 gallons through mine and still runs strong. the power is almost identicle to my OS RZ. you'll be happy. its a much better than the 24.7 and blows away the hyper .21 8 ports.

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by RCisLife
There's a sale at HobbyPeople . com for this (est. 2.6hp) XTM .21 Pro Engine for only $99.99 bucks. That's half off of its original price of $199.99. Do any of you guys recommend this engine? Its going to be a back up engine for my Kyosho 7.5

Is there any pros and cons for this? I've done research on it but haven't found any responses to it....
any help is appreciated. Thanks

Ya know I just bought the .21 for my HPI Nitro MT. It's going to take a little work but I think I can make it happen. I am wondering the same thing. I've read plenty of good things about the .247. Any feedback would greatly appreciated.

[cool head]

anyone know what happend to XTM's web site?

[newnitrofan]

Xtm website is here (http://www.globalhobby.com) you may have to play around with the links but I think it is self explanatory

[cool head]

thanx!

[JAG_RC]

I picked up my X-Terminator about a month ago, I love it! This thing is a blast to drive!!! ( I haven't driven my .21 Maxx since I bought it) I can't wait to get nitrous on it!!!

[dragracer28]

Originally posted by JAG_RC
I can't wait to get nitrous on it!!!

You don't need nitrous you have nitro(Nitromethane CH3NO2). Nitrous is a gas that is added to gasoline burning engines that adds oxygen to burn more gas and make more power. Nitro is a fuel completely different from gas that was first used in rockets. Nitro already has its own oxygen and can combust with none added(I saw it happen it split a forged block in half). I did not write this to make you look stupid but to teach everyone.:)

[VIPER X-F]

Actually, you can introduce nitro into your R/C engine. It has been done by R/C Innovation if I'm not mistaken but there is a company that has actually done and is in a video format that can be downloaded. It was done with a T-Maxx and a Savage.

I believe the same company innovated a Turbo adaption unit to the same models. ;)

[dragracer28]

You could add nitrous I never said you couldn't but you don't need to. Nitro makes lots of power if you want more use a higher nitro%. If you made a 4-stroke with an oiling system you could run 100% nitro and make more power than 20% with a turbo, blower or nitrous.

[cool head]

you guys know if pt# sem1341b is the correct part for the machined front wheel hubs. of do you know of a better alternative?

[dagoson]

Hey i seen you went to a michigan rc club meet this summer i was going to go to the one they had sept 7 but my puter crashed and i cant remember the web site to save my life (i had it in favorites)anyway since this is the xterminator thread i will give you my xtm news i sold my xterminator :( and i am selling my storm now i am going to get a rc10gt for the winter so i can still race while its snowing(indoor track) anyway sling if you see this tell me that web addy pls and if anyone wants a nice storm with a new hyper 8 port in it let me know

[cool head]

i thought i'd show you guys a good repair for the cheap front shock tower mounts. you simplyneed 2 pieces of 3/4"X3/4" angle alum stock, 1 cut at 40mm 2nd cut at 50mm,, and a 3/32 drill. youl have to file the gear case tabs completely off so the housing is flat. anywaypics speek better!

[cool head]

here's another angle

[chevelledude33]

How do these buggys hold up to abuse:D Is this xtm pretty durable because ive also seen that hot bodies is pretty durable but my hobby people sells xtm so id be able to get parts. Hows it hold up?

[cool head]

well the shocks snap easy, so do the front wheel carriers. and as the above posts mentions, the front shock tower mounting tabs are realy weak. but the car jumps great and handling is superb

[chevelledude33]

are there any hopups to fix those weak parts?:confused:

[NJ NMTist]

I've become very interested in the XTM X-terminator Deluxe buggy. Seems to be a powerful bang-for-the-buck bashing buggy. So what can actual owners of the buggy say about it? What are its positives and negatives? And if anyone has pictures of their XTM buggy, lets see em!

Thanks

[spikevyxel]

THE X-terminator PRO is availible from Hobbypeople.net

Its Decked out with no Engine or Radio

Im getting one:) :) :) :)





Oh and about the Deluxe. WOW a great car.

I have seen one run with the XTM .247 Pro Enigne

that thing FLYS

And the bang for your buck, WOW i saw it roll down a 20ft hill. the only thing that happened was that the spoiler came off


This car i greatly recomend

[NoRotorLS1]

Yeah the Pro will come with a new Chassis made from 7075, threaded shock bodies, new 3 shoe clutch, and a bunch of other stuff.

[spikevyxel]

WOW , hey NoRotor how'd did you find out:confused:

[NoRotorLS1]

WOW , hey NoRotor how'd did you find out
I PM'd craig at the xtm boards.

[waterboy]

where did this thread go?

anybody know when the Pro is coming out? i plan on getting one when they come out, assuming it won't be too long!

[EvaderRacer76]

how fast does this thing go?

[EvaderRacer76]

how come no one's here anymore?

[MaxxGT23]

I just order my X-terminator from hobbypeople for $299. I should be here on April 8th. Man I am pumped!

[Skagen]

Congrats! Let us know how it goes.

[FlashLCD33]

As for MaxxGT's buggy:

We were all simply amazed. After loading the tank with fuel, he put his finger over the stinger and pulled the pullstart 3 times. Stuck on the glow starter, let it sit there for about 10 seconds, then pulled the cord. WHAMMM it started right up. We were all in SHOCK, started on the first pull. He drove it around slowly and progessively faster after each tank. We were all in shock that it started on the first pull every single time we started it. After around 5 tanks we started leaning it out a bit. Maxx was pulling super fast laps on the very tight track in NO TIME. The buggy has AWESOME control. It flies flat also.

After about 2 tanks on the track, the engine wouldnt start. We pulled off the air filter and the carb was doused in dirt. We all thought that was odd, because the filter had never fallen off and was oiled. So we took the carb off, rinsed it out with nitro, and stuck it back on. After messing with the trims a little bit the engine started right up, and was perfect. It will idle with no problems, and the low end and top end are flat out amazing. What a sweet buggy!

None the less, i'm now about to order one.. $50 short :D

[BallarDe]

Would this work for the cooling problem on the XTM X-Terminator.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=3188240596&rd=1

[1 Bad STi]

hey fellas, Ive been browsing buggies and stumbled over the xtm pro buggy, how does this car hold up on tracks? compared to GS storm pro?

[MaxxGT23]

hey fellas, Ive been browsing buggies and stumbled over the xtm pro buggy, how does this car hold up on tracks? compared to GS storm pro?

I think very similar. My X-Terminator handles truly awesome.

[rad]

O.K. so I'm very new to this whole XTM X-Terminator gig. This car was flawless until I hit the track. I've been going to the Dirt Track in Hemet Ca. and this place beats up the car to no end. I have a few fixes of my own so if someone has posted a similar one please excuse me. The throttle return spring is a joke in the original place. I mounted a 4 mm x 20 hex bolt into the servo tray splitting the difference between the front brake lever and the reciver box. Has anyone had a issue with the tuned pipe popping off after a hard landing?If so I fabed a bracket that cured this problem for good. If anyone is interested let me know and I'll pass it on. I could really use some imput on the clutch. I keep eating bearings up at an alarming rate! I've done the paper shim and played with different back lash settings and have had no luck. It seems to me that the 5x8x2.5 shoulder bearing is a bit under sized. I'm experimenting with a OFNA clutch housing which holds a standard 5x10 sealed bearing. I haven't completed it yet and don't expect to till next week. If anyone has a fix or some imput it would be greatly apperciated. :)

[savage-ownage]

im thinking of converting my x-terminator to electric? bad idea?

[Buggyracer28]

I bought the x-terminator pro. It looks soo sweet. Havent gotten the meat yet. (radio, engine, etc.) but that comes tomorrow. Ill tell you how it goes.

[dirtbike]

Is the xterminator delux a Raceable buggy. Is it good or bad, does it have weak shock towers that break like on the xterminator.

[nitroXfreak]

my deluxe has held up awesome so far, and the shock towers are 5mm so i doubt they'll ever break. also, it has great handling and lots of adjustability

[dirtbike]

K thanks

[Kmot]

Just added a blower to my Xterminator. :cool:
http://www.fototime.com/74767BA7306A06C/standard.jpg
*
http://www.fototime.com/DC168FA5414C99C/standard.jpg

[dirtbike]

looks awsome, but those blowers dont really work, you know that right.

[Kmot]

looks awsome, but those blowers dont really work, you know that right.
:eek: :D

[globaltruckin]

:D sweat cage u build it? how are the exterminators for bashing?

[ducati777]

Ofna clutch bells are a direct fit. No big project there, just throw it on. I'm runnin a 16 tooth ofna bell myself. Bearing seem to hold up just fine as well.

I think this buggy is great for bashing. I've spooled the center diff, i've never understood why you'd want a center diff... My local track only does onroad racing, so yesterday I tried out a set of foams. On a clean road they had nice stick, but on a dirty parking lot it felt like ice.

I think the buggy is fine for bashing. I braced my shock tower with metal brackets I made by cutting up a computer case. Seem to work, as I broke the tower twice before I braced it and haven't since.

I have the original with the lil blue cooling head that looks like its off a .15. So it runs hot... but other than that it seems like a great buggy.

[alkyula]

bottem line if you get an xterminator, go with a deluxe, (or pro wiht your choice of the goods). the parts that will definatly need upgraded on the standard will already be on the deluxe, and you may end up spending a little more going with a standard in the long run. the head that comes with the deluxe will have the 24.7 screaming at only 215-220 degrees. plus the deluxe has alot of cnc 7075 parts, much stronger than the standards 6061 grade aluminum. (looks beefier and nicer too)

[dfarrales]

just taken ownership of a used xterminator... pretty sweet. question re: the 24.7... what temps is it most effeciant at? i was messing around w/ the needle a bit but had difficulty nailing down how rich/lean i should run it.

thanks,
Deo

[buggie_boy]

you need anengine with abigger cooling head on it because i had the same problem and i've got the same buggy and its got a O.S21vz-b(p) and it as fast as a mp7.5 k1

[ducati777]

Hi all,

I raced my X-terminator this weekend. Well more practiced, as it broke before the race. But while practicing I was one of the fastest cars there. This is onroad racing, and I'm using foam tires. The 10th scale touring cars can beat me when they have a good driver. A good lap for me is 8 flat, although i turned in a handful of 7.3's, but I'm not consistent at that speed. The local hotshoe with his touring car managed a couple 6.8's. But against MT's stadium trucks, and anything else I was fast.

It was a lot of fun this weekend, but I gotta work on my passing. For example I came onto the main straight behind an RC10 GT, we both hit it and I chased him down, and ran right up his backside. Our tires hit, and my car went airborn, upsidedown into a bush. It was pretty dang cool looking. I made the same mistake with a 10th scale touring car and ran right up over him.

The day ended when I stripped my clutch bell. I put in a new one, but forgot the second bearing... so I had mad clutch issues. I took it apart and fixed it, and ran another tank. Then I hit the wall hard, and it broke the clutch gears off the bell. Its actually really thin metal there, I expected something way more beefy. I had a 3rd clutchbell in my box, but no bearings for it. I was kinda mad and packed itup for the day. But I did get to run about 150 laps, so all in all a pretty successful day.

Oh yea, a guy brought out his brushless rs4 micro, which was surprisingly fast. Running the big mamba setup and a grip of cells. That lil car, and my big 8th scale were pretty competitive and made for some humerous passing moves. I've got my buggy jacked way up, and he could actually pass me underneath! Looked a little like a cat chasing a mouse.

[rchockeystick]

is the x-t durable like people say it is or is this guy whos trying to sell my a revo right and it breaks like crazy. im going to get the pro version

[ducati777]

Hi RC,

My car has held up very well. When the car was first released (mine) there were some issues with the shock towers breaking their mounting tabs off the top of the diff cases. XTM has since updated the design, and people on this forum and myself have made additional braces to our cars. Once braced the buggy is as tough as any other I imagine. Its my only buggy, but I've run with others and none of us break things.

Well in the above thread I broke two clutches... No good explaination but the clutches were OFNA bells so I can't blame XTM.

Over the life of the buggy, I sheared a pin the CVD, and replaced it with a nail I cut to size with a dremel, 1 front A arm, and 1 back diff case, 2 clutches.... I figure I'm pretty hard on the car, so all in all I think its pretty durable.

I'm running the first non pro, lil cooling head buggy with yellow wheels/wings...

[Advanex]

How's this for tough? I hope I can post vids here. This is my stock Xterm RTR. Only upgrade is the cooling head.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=44575

[ExtremeDuty]

How's this for tough? I hope I can post vids here. This is my stock Xterm RTR. Only upgrade is the cooling head.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=44575

Cool video! I like it... :D

[Fatdaddy]

How's this for tough? I hope I can post vids here. This is my stock Xterm RTR. Only upgrade is the cooling head.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=44575
holy ****! that thing is durable!!

[autoshift]

i 've had my xterminator for about a year..havn't broke anything yet..race my cusins hpirs4 evo and whoop him and raced him kyosho imferno thing..in his back yard...i was all over the place and still beat him by half a lap..its pretty fast out of the box. i havn't touch my nitro tc3 since. but im more of that basher then racer so i love it for bashing...oh yeah its my engine is still running great while my cuzins inferno is having trouble wit starting the damn thing

[autoshift]

oh yeah i have they xterminator deluxe

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

Hi RC,

When the car was first released (mine) there were some issues with the shock towers breaking their mounting tabs off the top of the diff cases. XTM has since updated the design, .

Hi I just bought a used x-terminator. What I wasnt told was that it has a cracked front shock tab. Owner might not have known. I found it while cleaning it tigtening everything up,straightened the shock tower.

Anyways, When I go to purchase a new case how will I know if its an updated case?

Should I still brace the "new" one?

Too, Any of you run on-road tires other than Pro-line? What?

What size shim/washer fits the diffs? When I change the case I will shim it if needed and would like to get them at the same time
Thanks for any help.

[wyd]

Anyone racing a X-Terminator Pro version against the Mugens, Kyoshos, and the other top buggies? How does it compare against them?

[buggie_boy]

i race my dads friend and he's got a inferno 7.5 k2 and all i did to mine is put a o.s. vz-b in mine because the stock engine couldn't keep up to it. dose any one know if any brand of center cvd's fit the X-Terminator.

thanks everyone who reads this.

[wyd]

Anyone have any pics of an X-Terminator Pro (maybe a closeup).

Brian

[QUAKE&SHAKE]

I think we are S O L as far as help goes guys.

[wyd]

I thinks its just a matter of checking the other boards and see what other guys have tried. I check all of the X-Terminator threads I can. Once I get mine in a few weeks I will learn alot more.

[wyd]

Well I went ahead and ordered the X-Terminator Pro and anew XTM .21 Pro motor for it. I already have some killer JR servos to put in the car so it will have a fair shake against the other highend buggies out their. I'm very interested in trying it out and seeing how I do against the competition.

[wyd]

Had a little change in my order. I have the new OS V-spec motor coming in instead of the XTM motor. I might get the XTM motor down the road to have as a 2nd motor. Everything should be in a few days.

[wyd]

A little closer til Thurs or Fri when my new Pro comes in with the OS motor. While I was waiting I picked up a new Mammoth on Tuesday. Pretty cool truck plus the diffs are intechangable with the X-Terminator. That is a plus if something happens to my diff. I bought two complete diffs on Ebay last week and have them for spares. Want to build a couple of setups with different oils in them so I can change them easily at the track and have no hassles.

[wyd]

Picking up my buggy today. I did look at it last night closely at the hobby shop and it is very nice and deffinately worth getting over the other versions if you plan to race or put hopups on the car as you save alot of money this way. Can't wait to start working on it tonight.

[TheBurninator]

If anyone has any questions about it, I've had mine for a long time, and I know a good share about it, hopups, and other performance tweaks.

And if you're wondering about how it does against non-roar or other sactioned racers, it isn't as "pickup and go"-ish, but has way more top end on it. A word of caution also, do not get the 2-speed unless you are an EXPERT at aligning engines and gear meshes, i suggest staying with the 1-speed. You can get a savage gear to fit with minor modifications if you don't like steel to steel gears.

If you have any questions, you can ask me here or email me at

Cartman505@msn.com

Thanks!

Corey

[wyd]

Here is a picture of my X-Terminator Pro.

[wyd]

One with the new paint job.

[berzerker_SDMF]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v727/berzerker_SDMF/xtm005.jpg


here's my x-term.its unreal how fast it is.

[wyd]

Thats a pretty cool paint job. The camo look.

[berzerker_SDMF]

thanks bro. hey are there any other sites besides global that sell x-t stuff?i broke a fnt lwr arm and was wondering if anyone made different ones that would fit or stronger suspension parts.

[wyd]

thanks bro. hey are there any other sites besides global that sell x-t stuff?i broke a fnt lwr arm and was wondering if anyone made different ones that would fit or stronger suspension parts.Well I think only XTM makes arms for the X-Terminator. The Pro arms are a little stiffer than the stock a arms that come on the deluxe and standard X-Terminator.

[xynias01]

hey guys,
ipicked up the rex x pro this week in australia for $685

[BWGunner]

Picked up an X-Terminator from MidAmerica Hobbies in North Liberty, Iowa about a month ago. I paid $300 for the whole kit. Seriously. It's not a pro kit, of course, but the price is amazing. MidAmerica also has one of the few good tracks in Iowa, and the service and tolerance of my nubie behavior has been top notch.

During initial break-in I had the following problems.

1. Within the first :30 of break-in the throttle servo seized. This is a known problem with current X-Terms, and is Hi-Tec's error. XTM was very kind about it and offered to replace it and cover shipping, etc. I convinced the store to give me credit and I upgraded to a sweet Traxxas servo with some muscle. No stats, but it's a required upgrade for the X-Term IMHO.

2. Shattered the wing. Bad plastic and sharp edges on the wing support. I recommend moving the plastic washers UNDER the wing to take the beating first. My new OFNA wing is far heavier with more cross-bracing. Also, the red it comes in is much nicer than that hideous yellow XTM is using.

3. Blew out the center hub on the stock wheels by "grazing" a car-eating-tree at about 30mph. Oops. Thing is, the wheel's center looked like it was cut from the car with a knife. The stock wheels have a mold-release line inside the wheel in the worst spot imaginable. IMHO the stock wheels are pretty, but are junk. Again, they are yellow, and looked stupid anyway. :-)

4. Carefull with that pull-starter! I ripped mine out in frustration. Store fixed it free, just because they're good guys. I have had significant trouble starting it every time. Maybe my technique is poor, but it seems odd. Almost 30 pulls each time to start, which sucks. I see air-bubbles in the fuel line that never seem to come out (does the line need to be 3 feet long?) and I think I've leaned the idle a little too much. Anyway, the starting box is getting more appealling. I'll take any rookie starting advice!

5. Lost 2 screws in the front suspension. The whole car was "loose" on arrival and needed tightening in most places. Do this early!

6. "Tuned" muffler (I think that means LOUD) is loose on delivery. Pull the exhaust apart and use "adustable" zip ties to rebuild it.

So that's the bad news. Otherwise it's been a blast. This car WANTS to fly, and it wants to fly level! Very controllable in air, and the shocks are up to the task. I've rolled it, flipped it, landed hard on the lid and ... well there was that tree incident, too. So far other than the wheel and wing nothing bent, broken, or maimed. Well, I burned myself pretty good, but that's not the car's fault! Infinitely adjustable suspension components make me eager to fiddle with it, and fiddle I will. The turn-in lacks bite, so that's where I'll start. Stock suspension settings were too firm at front and too soft at rear. Using the included "adjustment rings" fixed that easily.

No races yet, but I'll say this...it out-handles, out-accellerates, and out-jumps my buddy's Revo. Sure he has reverse, a second gear (that has never worked right) and an electic start (which I wish I had). But he paid $150 more, and he can't really do much on a track without putting serious cash in.

So far...not too bad. I'm pleased, but not ecstatic.

[Hobson]

Anyone else converting theirs to electric?

http://gazdesigns.fpic.co.uk/c537010.html

In the UK and the rest of the world, the X-Terminator is known as a GV Rex-X.

[ducati777]

I've run mine a few times in the last month. I put the XTM polished 3 chamber pipe on it, and its still loud. The yellow spoke stock wheels are crappy, I broke those several times, and tried to CA them back.

Someone asked about running onroad, which is mostly what I do. I use foam tires, they seem to work pretty well.

I also put Monster Pirate shocks on the front, dremeled the chasis, and now I have good ground clearance.

http://www.freepixhosting.com/uploadedfiles/100_0797small.jpg

[snowboardgeek1]

Just bought a new X-Terminator Deluxe from hobby people. They had a special going on, $299 for the Deluxe version. Not too bad!

Took it out for break in yesterday, and it started on the first pull. NICE. But this thing is set way too rich. I had to lean it out at least one full turn for it to hold a steady idle. I went through three tanks, so I'm almost finished with break in.

One thing to point out. The people with problems of their throttle servo's going out, could be due to the very strong return spring that's on the servo. TAKE IT OUT! The techs at hobby people said that's the first thing anyone should do if they purchase this buggy, and I totally agree. You can even hear the throttle servo stressing out when this spring is on. I took it out, and the throttle moves in and out so much easier.

I also converted my deluxe to use a 5 cell hump pack. I changed out the switch as well, so now I can charge my battery pack without having to take out the battery pack from my car.

All in all, this is a great buggy. The speed is pretty damn good. It loves to spin its wheels. I can't wait to take it out to the track.

[snowboardgeek1]

Update:

The throttle servo went out on me. So I replaced it and the steering servo with "upgraded" units.

The throttle servo, I replaced with a hi-tec 525MG and the steering with a 645. But whats weird is this...

When I first replaced the throttle servo, I noticed there was some "noise" or "interference" with the servo, meaning, it would twitch uncontrollably at times. When I took the buggy out for a spin, the throttle would open and close on its own. I took it back to hobby people, and we found out, that the stock steering servo was somehow "conflicting" with the throttle servo, therefore throwing the throttle servo out of wack.

When I replaced the steering servo with a 645, everything works PERFECTLY. The steering and throttle response improved tremendously. I highly suggest everyone taking out the stock servos and replacing them with these units.

Other than that, I have finished about 5 tanks of gas and will do two more for break in, then I'll get down to tuning. But the way it runs right now, its sweet. Temp ranges a little above 200 which is pretty good. Still runs fairly rich but that's fine with me. I'll lean it out when the break in is done.

I am impressed with this buggy, and the motor. If it weren't for the really weak servos, this buggy would be PERFECT.

[Quad Racer]

I have the pro x-terminator and I but a 24.7 pro it in and it is as fast if not faster then some higher end buggies at the track I go to. I have jumped the heck out of it it ran a way from me one time WOT into a wall broke a a-arm and the front bumper this buggy is great for racing or bashing. JUst my 2 cents.