Brushless Motor Forum v4.0

[k_sw31]

Hey, you'd be surprised how many mullets there are in eastern washington :p

[yf22k]

the orange jumper is to program the controller. the black is for bec

[k_sw31]

Well, I would get a schulze, but, no BEC. The main thing is, I dont want to have to run a receiver pack. So, I think I am gonna go with the hacker, now all I need to do is make the money magically appear ;)

[Zero2Sixty]

yes, when I first hooked up 12 to the 5300, i couldn't go more than 1/3 throttle without it hitting the limit.

So what did you do you disable it? I want to know as much as i can, so im ready to go when i get mine lol. It doesnt limit it on just 7 cells right? RRH still hasnt replied to my e-mailed regarding my order-status, or sent me one saying they shipped :(

[tc3punk]

right now, I'm using a 4 cell pack...

zero, I havn't called yet, I'm gonna email him tomorow, cause he said NEXT week...
so I'll lyk as soon as I know what's happening...

also, alkaline AA's = 1.5v
nimh and nicd AA's = 1.2v

;)

[mcquto]

Could this be the 100th page?


Darn, I guess not!

[jeffrey]

I'm thinking of building either a Yokomo YRX-12WE or Associated RC12L3 (haven't decided totally yet) and am stuck on one thing:

The Yokomo is setup for 4 batteries ONLY. I've been heavily considering the Novak brushless setup for higher RPM's for the large(r) track I run on most often.

Would the brushless setup work on a 4 battery rig? I'll be running the Panasonic 3000UM's from Pro Match (the team matched cells).

My other option was to get an LRP Quantum and just buy a good high RPM motor; was considering a Reedy Krypton 10x or 12x.

Any suggestions guys?

(sorry to repost here too, but seeing as it's a brushless question also...) :)

[RadicalRustler]

I pan on selling mine Maybe. Its to suppport an off-road tank style 80-120hp go-kart of mine. If i can find a track that i can race and get sponsors for though, i'll be keeping it.

[crono man]

Originally posted by lonepalm4
Just wanted to give my input about Novak's new super sport BL combo. It is sweet! I used it in both my touring car and 2wd buggy, and it is fast and smooth! It is definately on par with a 10-11 turn motor. I let another experienced racer try it and he thought it was equally smooth as his brushed mod. The only problem I have experienced was a bad connection with the plug in for the rotor sensor. I wonder if this is a manufacturing design or just a fluke? I did get mine used, and maybe thats why I got such a good deal on it.? This IS the future! Anyone looking for speed with zero maint. should get brushless! Also, anyone know when Novak will be releasing their competition BL unit? It was in the catalog released with the super sport BL.
Thanks!

good to hear that dude im loving my novak too!!!:)

[chevyman007]

What is everybodys opinions on the novak ss? I dont want to replace any more brushes or springs, and deal with cutting the comm so I want a no maintenence motor that has no cogging. I will be putting it in my B4. I will just be bashing and racing with my B4. And I have to buy a new esc anyway so I just thought I would spend the extra cash and get the novak. Do you think that 40 is touchable on the novak with 7 cells and the right gearing? Thanks again

[jdm3849]

I believe that it would easily reach 40 with the right gearing on 7-cells.



I am planning also to get the Novak SS and was wondering if my Matched 2000's would be able to handle the high amp draw. In a Tc3 with suggested gearing can you guess how long the battery will last just cruising around?



BTW, Basementlosi is a.k.a IWishIKnew

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by chevyman007
What is everybodys opinions on the novak ss? I dont want to replace any more brushes or springs, and deal with cutting the comm so I want a no maintenence motor that has no cogging. I will be putting it in my B4. I will just be bashing and racing with my B4. And I have to buy a new esc anyway so I just thought I would spend the extra cash and get the novak. Do you think that 40 is touchable on the novak with 7 cells and the right gearing? Thanks again

From what I have heard, the novak sounds like a solid bl setup.

I would say 40 is touchable with seven cells, you'll probably be at about 35 with 6, or so I would say. :)

jdm, Your 2000s should be fine, as long as you are not running them too hard and attend proper care. :) I do not know for gearing, but I beleive novak has recommended gear ratios for different cars, etc. on their site. :)

[chevyman007]

Would the novak be to much for my 2wd B4? Like straight line tracking?

[emaxxgo]

probably not, but................. how much is too much?

[k_sw31]

Nah you should be fine, the B4 is quite stable. :cool:

[chevyman007]

Who here runs the novak? What is your opinions on it. Reliability, power, speed. Thanks again

[FSU427P]

I run the novak system in my T3 and TC3. I love the system because you can change through 6 power programs to meet your racing needs. The power and speed are just as good, if not better, than low turn mod motors, and so far it has been super efficient for me. It was worth the $250.

[fishtale17]

For everyone asking about speed. Here is my set up, a Losi xxx-t RTR that has been completely converted to all graphite. Proline Gladiator tires and Novak brushless. Stock speed with the 19t motor was just over 20mph. Now for the good numbers. On a 6 cell pack top speed is 32.46 mph (all speeds are GPS varified) using 18t pinion/86t spur 11.61 final gear ratio. Using a 7 cell pack with the same gearing is 34.96 mph (18t/86t). Now for something crazy I tried my 24T pinion and WOW 39.81 mph on 7 cells with 8.71 final gear ratio. I know there are faster cars and trucks out there so lets not have any "mine is faster than yours" crap. This post was just an example of what the Novak BL is capable of producing.

[Soya v1.1]

Mine's faster! Wait, it doesn't run. Nevermind. ;)

[PatrickJ]

In a recent caraction magazine there was an article on the novak ss against a 10 turn Kr and the both did over 40 but the novak was sliightly faster.

[unit_4tec]

we need a thread of r/c brushless videos :)

[DualBL]

there was a post of like 50 videos that I posted a while back (I think in the 70's or so)

check www.brushless.owns.it

I just uploaded my 2nd video...
#6 and 7 on the second list on the video page;)

[SandManRacing]

Some videos here:

http://rccars.ca.tc (http://66.130.66.102:85/rccars.html)

Brushless - electric - Nitro

:)

Bye

[HiAmplidude]

56,000+++ views on a single thread and there's not a dedicated forum?

I have a few raw vid's, large and un-edited on www.rcnuts.com

[TeamMishap]

Hacked my B50 heatsink yesterday. I cut away maybe a 1/3 of it, and it fits nice with good tranny and battery clearance. Haven't put it through it's paces yet to see how well it works, but for $13, even if it's a failed experiment, it was cheap.

[RadicalRustler]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Hacked my B50 heatsink yesterday.

funny how you used hacked

[Soya v1.1]

Bwahahahahahaha!

[TeamMishap]

Oh yeah, the "hacked" comment was an intended pun. :)

[Soya v1.1]

Yeah, sure ;)

[BJMFH1.01]

Alright I finally did it; I bought my own FT RC10T3. My buddy got sick of me "borrowing" his. I know the T4 will be released in a little while but I'd rather just wait until they release a FT T4. Besides, the T3 looks like it has more ground clearance (better for bashing).

Anyways, I'm running my 1920/5 motor in it. It really hauls for a truck. My controller gets pretty warm but a fan has helped counter this. My question is this, would a 8t or higher BL motor be better suited for a truck rather than a 5t? The T3 is fairly lightweight but it's still a truck. It's not like I'm running a huge Emaxx or something of that nature. Would a motor with more torque yield higher performance in a truck as opposed to a motor with high RPMs?

One more thing, I have the current limiter set to 30 amps in my controller. My motor produces a 1000 watts at 30 amps. Would setting the current limiter higher even do anything? If the motor is putting out it's max wattage at 30 amps, would increasing the current damage it or simply have no effect? Thanks!

[Bob Ebophalus]

well, i cant answer all your questions, but i know that setting the amp rating higher will allow the truck to accelerate faster, but the top end will be the same. which controller are you using?

[TeamMishap]

Anyone want some instructions on how to make a homemade pinion puller? Found out I needed this to get non-stock Maxx pinions off the B50 shaft.

[crono man]

question for the guys that have the novak ss...

the other day at the track my novak ss had this weird stuttering while accelerating!

any of you guys experienced this?

[mcquto]

Originally posted by crono man
question for the guys that have the novak ss...

the other day at the track my novak ss had this weird stuttering while accelerating!

any of you guys experienced this?


The only time I have ever seen anything like this is when running in stock mode. I have never had it happen it full power mode. It only happens when you are geared too high, at least in my experience. If you go to the Novak SS link, http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=131521 CharlieS Who works for Novak answers a lot of questions for people and is very helpfull.

[bAsEmEnTLOSI]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Wow, you are just sad.

I bet you everyone in this forum understands nearly every aspect of a brushed motor more than you do. There are still many mechanical things you can do with the actual car platform, it just takes another hassle out of maitenence for racing and general running. In fact, I doubt you can even understand how a brushless motor works. In addition from my basic 5300, I also own a few modifieds. I generally prefer my brushless over my 14turn D5 because I dont have to spend 5$ and get the comm cut every 10 runs or so, and spend a few bucks on brushes every now and then. Plus you dont have to constantly clean a brushless with off road vehicles...its amazing how fast you can emty a can of buggy blast when I run my D5.

You my friend have just made your self sound like a complete noob and *******, checking your profile you have 4 posts, your such a welcome to the board!

HAHAH! Me a n00b? And btw, feller, this is just a new account, because my old one, the name, was getting sort of odd, so I wanted a new one. I've been reading magazines and on the internet for months and months, and I bet I'd know more about any part of a brushed motor than anyone in this forum because this forum, it is for people who don't know a thing about brushed motors! WHY DO YOU THINK THEY GOT BRUSHLESS? BECAUSE THEY ARE DUMB!

[jdm3849]

I bet you do not even understand the concept of a brushless motor... Why? "BECAUSE YOU ARE DUMB!" lmao.:rolleyes:

[lonepalm4]

Originally posted by crono man
question for the guys that have the novak ss...

the other day at the track my novak ss had this weird stuttering while accelerating!

any of you guys experienced this?

I have. My super sport has a bad connection between the sensor wires and the controller. Normally it works fine, but sometimes a wreck will induce the bad connection and cause the car to stutter badly. If I wreck bad, the motor will not even run until I wiggle the harness where it connects with the controller. This is the ONLY time my setup has ever stuttered or given me any problems. Check this out, and let us know if this is the case with your setup. Thanks.

I should send mine back, but i'm having too much fun to let it go for a couple of weeks. Besides, I have races to win.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by bAsEmEnTLOSI
HAHAH! Me a n00b? And btw, feller, this is just a new account, because my old one, the name, was getting sort of odd, so I wanted a new one. I've been reading magazines and on the internet for months and months, and I bet I'd know more about any part of a brushed motor than anyone in this forum because this forum, it is for people who don't know a thing about brushed motors! WHY DO YOU THINK THEY GOT BRUSHLESS? BECAUSE THEY ARE DUMB!

Wow, there is a little you can learn by reading stuff online, and in magazines, but people tend to gain the most experience from doing stuff themselves. It sounds to me as if you are a total noob (yet again, lol) because you fail to see the reason why practically everyone here has gone brushless. WE HAVE dealt with brushed modifieds, taking them apart, cutting the comms, replacing brushes, zapping magnets, etc. etc. etc. It is because of all that maintence that most of us bought brushless. You see, you are such a noob (and *******) that you cant see the real reason why we buy our 300$ brushless setups. We already know that **** about brushes, and we see the light of brushless, more power, speed, efficiency, and best of all, no maintence.

So, you go ahead and stick with your hot modifieds, while your spending even more money on a lathe, drops, brushes, we are out running. Plus most brushless setups will waste most modifieds.

Now go back to reveling in your ignorance. :)

[bAsEmEnTLOSI]

Just to let you know, looking up and using fancy words from the dictionary doesn't get you anywheres. Also, I see that you do, you could be lying, know something about motors, so that's why you went brushless. But new people, that's why they go to brushless, they have no clue.

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by bAsEmEnTLOSI
HAHAH! Me a n00b? And btw, feller, this is just a new account, because my old one, the name, was getting sort of odd, so I wanted a new one. I've been reading magazines and on the internet for months and months, and I bet I'd know more about any part of a brushed motor than anyone in this forum because this forum, it is for people who don't know a thing about brushed motors! WHY DO YOU THINK THEY GOT BRUSHLESS? BECAUSE THEY ARE DUMB!

Don't be so mean dude!:D

Once brushless motor come down in price and they work all the kinks out (cogging, thermaling, frying batteries, etc), I think you'll really like them. They really are the ultimate bashing motors. Once the technology advances a little further, they'll be perfect for racing.

For the first time in awhile, the playing field is just about level between electric and nitro thanks to BL motors.

I don't mind being called dumb. All I know is I'm the idiot out there having a blast.

Once you perform a 12 cell speed run in a touring car and hit near 90 mph, you'll understand what the big deal is about BL. Try to find someone with a BL setup in your area and convice them to let you drive it. You'll get it then! :)

[crono man]

Originally posted by lonepalm4
Originally posted by crono man
question for the guys that have the novak ss...

the other day at the track my novak ss had this weird stuttering while accelerating!

any of you guys experienced this?

I have. My super sport has a bad connection between the sensor wires and the controller. Normally it works fine, but sometimes a wreck will induce the bad connection and cause the car to stutter badly. If I wreck bad, the motor will not even run until I wiggle the harness where it connects with the controller. This is the ONLY time my setup has ever stuttered or given me any problems. Check this out, and let us know if this is the case with your setup. Thanks.

I should send mine back, but i'm having too much fun to let it go for a couple of weeks. Besides, I have races to win.

you know something i just realised mine started sturtering after some big jumps maybe thats the reason!
thanks for the keen observation ill check it out :)

why do you have to send yours back?

[kilrbzz]

I'm not sure why you guys even give him the satisfaction of a reply.

Just wanted to report on my C50 overheating problem. I installed a 2x2 fan to move air over the esc. I also flipped the tranny in the E-maxx so the motor is further away from the esc now. I thought maybe there was a bit of heat transfer with them so close together. I trimmed the body down for maximum air flow. The results: No thermals in a 10 minute race! That and a few jealous T-maxx owners!

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by bAsEmEnTLOSI
Just to let you know, looking up and using fancy words from the dictionary doesn't get you anywheres.

Sorry dude, I dont see any "fancy" words there...maybe you were confused by reveling?

:rolleyes:

[k_sw31]

Now I am going to take kilrbzz's advice and stop taking the bait.

Get your flames outta here, if you wanna debate brushed vs. brushless, start a new thread.

*********
Moving on-
As some of you know I have been running a brushless setup for awhile (basic 5300/warrior), and basically my controller is in shambles. Its not even worth running any more (frankly I have been running my D5 more often :o ), so, and I have mentioned this before, I want a new controller.

Basically I have narrowed it down to between the two hackers (master sport or comp.). Has anyone ran the sport with a 5300? Probably the max cells I'll ever run would be 10 (really old crappy china 1500s), or maybe just 8. But the majority of hte time 6 cells. I just would like to know if it would be worth my while to pay an extra 70$ for the comp.

Also how is the throttle? I do not want to use a receiver pack.

Any help is appricieted. :)

EDIT: Can anyone point me to some good silver solder? I dont want to end up in some stupid predicement like BJMFH did.

[crono man]

hey ks_w1

check acer racing for the silver solder

http://www.acerracing.com/solder.html

[kilrbzz]

Believe it or not. The 60/40 solder from radio shack is still the best stuff I've ever used. I use the old paste flux too (on everything) All the solder that says it already has flux in it is just not enough. Solder needs flux to really get flowing. The use of a good iron, flux, and solder thats all you need. Don't get me wrong there are other good brands out there but I still don't think there as good as the basic good ole 60/40.

[BJMFH1.01]

K_sw31,

The Hacker Sport was the first BL controller I owned. It blew up and started a fire because I left a charged pack hooked up to it without running the car. I guess BL controllers start drawing amps the second you connect the batteries. I had the thing running in a B3 connected to a B50 S8 motor. There was no cogging at all. It was a great controller. The throttle response is very smooth.

I now own a Hacker Competition. I've had it connected to my 5300, 1920/5 and running in my TC3 and T3. There is no cogging from either motor in the car or truck. The throttle response on the controller is very smooth and doesn't require a receiver pack (10 cells or less with BEC). The Comp has really great brakes too.

Truthfully, I really can't tell too much of a difference between the two controllers. The Comp seems to run cooler and you can gear it slightly higher. The acceleration is marginally faster. The braking response is a little bit stronger as well. I don't know if all that translates into an extra 70 bucks or not. They're both great controllers and you can't go wrong with either one. I went with the Competition because I had some extra cash lying around at the time.

BTW, I think the Sport (16) can handle more cells than the Comp (12). Oh, and about the silver solder, be sure to use it. And if, God forbid, something should ever go wrong with your controller, send it back to Hacker without anything attached to it. Don't leave the battery plugs, motor plugs, or wire extensions connected. Send it back to them exactly how you received it. Clean it up and make it look brand new. That way they can't blame you for anything.

[OptimaMan]

BJMFH: You are da man! 87 Freaking MPH????!@#$%!#%#$ That's awesome!

I finally got my 1920 5 turn!!! I also got a 1895 controller (I couldn't wait any longer for the 18120)... I haven't had much of a chance to really test any of the stuff, but here's what I can say about the controller.

When comparing the 1895 controller (305$) versus the Schulze 12.97 fwe, the 1895 freaking COGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Even the cheap Hacker Master Sport didn't COG!!! However, the top speed seemed faster with the Lehner controller. BUT, I REFUSE to use a 5 cell pack so I won't be using this controller except maybe in a plane or boat or something like that.

The 1895 with 6 cells and C40 6 turn definitely goes 40 mph in my XXX-s graphite+. Next time, I'm going to keep on gearing it until it won't go any faster and get the speed read.

I'm going to compare it with the Lehner 1920 5 turn soon...

-OptimaMan

[DualBL]

wait, where's it say 87mph?:confused:

[k_sw31]

BJMFH- Thank you for the tips. :)

Right now it seems like all I need is the sport, seeing as how I gear conservativly anyways.

Unfortunatly it will probably be awhile, unless I can sell off some stuff (workin on the ft gt ;))

Oh btw, if I recall when you got your new esc back they sent some silver solder with that (I beleive you posted that back somewhere), what brand was it? Deans? I would like to order some silver solder if I get a hacker, but it would be nice to fit it in with my regular tower orders. The acer racing stuff looks nice but I'd think I can get buy with deans...

[BigBadTahoe]

This is probably a dumb question but where do you order all these BL's setups? Are there some websites you could post?

[anothermbdusted]

http://www.maximizerproducts.com/BLSetup.html
http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/default2.htm
and probably the best place to buy from even though its over seas.. http://www.aircraft-world.com/

for hacker try www.stormerhobbies.com

hope this helps ya cya

[k_sw31]

dont forget www.finedesignrc.com :)

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Oh btw, if I recall when you got your new esc back they sent some silver solder with that (I beleive you posted that back somewhere), what brand was it? Deans?

K_sw31, yep, they sent me some Dean's silver solder. It's the best solder I've ever used, really strong!

Dual Bl, I posted a few pages back about an 87 mph speed run I achieved in my TC3 running off 12 cells, 32/72 gearing, and a 1920/5. My aluminum shaft warped/bent ending the fun. I could have geared up to 34 teeth for even faster speeds. The campus cop clocked my car with his radar gun so I don't know how accurate my top speed really is. I'm going to buy a GPS system sometime in the near future; I hear they're pretty accurate.

OptimaMan, I'm glad to hear that you finally got your stuff! At least you don't have to order 4mm pinion gears. If I remember correctly, yours has a 3.17mm shaft. You'll definately be hittin' some crazy speeds too in your touring car with the 1920/5. Be forewarned though, it's soooo much more powerful than any of the Basics (5300, 4200). Given enough cells, you'll be wreaking havoc upon your drivetrain in no time.

About the receiver pack, I used to hate the idea of using one too. I almost always run a receiver pack now, even with 6 cells. Yeah, it's hard to find a good place to stick it, especially in a touring car. But it does help with cogging and more importantly, in takes some of the strain off the ESC. I own the Competition and it doesn't cogg at all, but I still run one anyways just because the controller runs cooler allowing me to gear up.

Your controller would probably own all if you hooked a receiver pack up to it. Get some good servo tape or zip ties and strap a 5 cell hump pack to the top of your receiver or servo. It looks bad at first but you'll get used to it. The pack doesn't weigh that much so it won't unbalance your car too much.

Believe me dude, I am sooo NOT the man. Pretty soon you'll be just as big of a dork as I am. Didn't anyone tell you, chicks love a guy whose RC car can hit over 80 mph. Women find that much more appealing than money, good looks, or intelligence. It's all about the speed of your BL motor.

Whenever I perform speed runs at my local college parking lot, the students there always make fun of me. I try to go at night now just to avoid getting picked on. It's sometime worse then because of all the parties. At least the campus cops are cool with me.

[TeamMishap]

What college are you playing at where the students make fun of you? I've never had anyone give me crap when playing in public, (then again I'm 6'2", 220#, and look like a Marine), everyone I've encountered say "Dang, I didn't know those things went so danged fast!"

When I was in Mississippi, I got half of the operating room I worked in started into RC with just a stock Evader. They went straight to the Maxx and smoked me.

Sorry about your lame college campus. Run your machine into their toes at 60mph, maybe that'll impress upon them the true speed of your machine. hahahaha

[DualBL]

DubDuced, go to www.brushless.owns.it
there's lots of links, in one place, and that's what the site is for;)

[Soya v1.1]

Shameless plug :)

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
What college are you playing at where the students make fun of you? I've never had anyone give me crap when playing in public, (then again I'm 6'2", 220#, and look like a Marine), everyone I've encountered say "Dang, I didn't know those things went so danged fast!"

When I was in Mississippi, I got half of the operating room I worked in started into RC with just a stock Evader. They went straight to the Maxx and smoked me.

Sorry about your lame college campus. Run your machine into their toes at 60mph, maybe that'll impress upon them the true speed of your machine. hahahaha

I play around up at Oakland University in Michigan. I attend to the community college a few miles down the road. Most of the students up at Oakland are pretty cool. The problem is, the county where I live is the second richest in the world. It's usually just the rich kids who give me a hard time.

[DualBL]

don't sweat em'
let them fully mature, and they'll see how great RC's are:p

[krisI.925]

i live in SE michigan to. I almost went to oakland university but now im going to Michigan tech istead.

[Nobrushesforme]

You should try sneaking in to the sliverdome's parking lot, lot less people and you could open it up alittle longer plus we all know its not being used to much!!! lol You should take that thing up to larry's and show them how a brushless can run. When I bought mine the sales dude didnt seem to know what all the fuss was about.




p.s. oakland is second richist in N.A., not world, but like it matters still doesnt buy me another brushless!!!! I went O.C.C. also, just two classes though, then my dad moved from Rochester to Washington (township) and I had to go to M.C.C. or pay extra to go to o.c.c. while living out of county. So M.C.C. it was!

[BJMFH1.01]

That's a great idea, the Silverdome parking lot is huge. I have a memory that the surface was pretty rough. I'll check it out this weekend though.

I tried to run my brushless up at Larry's carpet track a few times, but it's just too powerful for such a small track. Even with really low gearing I was always out of control. The last time I was in Larry's they were selling something from Hacker. It was in the purple and white Hacker box, I think it was a motor but I couldn't tell.

I usually have to make a trip up there at least once a week to replace all the broken parts from BL abuse. The guys who work there can never figure out how I break all these parts in the fashion that they're broken. I try to explain to them about the torque and higher rpms of Bl but they look at me like I'm stupid. There is one employee who runs a BL Emaxx. He's the big dude with the shaved head. He's pretty cool, helped me out a few times. For the most part though, the staff up at Larry's really know their stuff.

The only problem with Larry's is that the place can turn into a real zoo on the weekends. People are always jammed into that place on Saturday. Larry's has to make some serious bank.

About Oakland county's status, my Macro Economics professor at O.C.C. Auburn Hills told me it was the second the richest county in the world. She said Silcon Valley was the first, Oakland County was the second, and some place in Kuwait was third. This is just what she told me. She could very well be wrong. Oakland county is nice but I'm sure that there is someplace far wealthier on the planet.

I'm almost done with O.C.C.; I have 60 credits right now and only need to take a science course with a lab to complete my associates' degree in liberal arts. After that I'll probably end up transfering to OU to get my bachelors.

[DualBL]

woah, we almost lost her to the 3rd page!:eek:

[crono man]

Originally posted by DualBL
woah, we almost lost her to the 3rd page!:eek:

dont worry this thread aint going anywhere not before the big 200!!:D

[RadicalRustler]

Is anyone here rich enough to buy a new 5300 after they try it on 18 cells?

[Bob Ebophalus]

i technically could but im a tightwad, so i dont want to. and connecting the 18 cells might be a little hard, since i dont kno how to solder.:o

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by RadicalRustler
Is anyone here rich enough to buy a new 5300 after they try it on 18 cells?

I would, but I'm buying stuff for my 1:1 car:(

[BJMFH1.01]

I don't think 18 cells would even do anything for you. Once the motor hit its' max rpms, 65000, it wouldn't go any faster. It sure would be cool to see the thing blow up though!

[Bob Ebophalus]

but it would accelerate much faster than usual, right? so you could just gear up to take advantage of that

[anothermbdusted]

well i was under the impression that if you go beond the maxx rpm range it would smoke in a heart beat...i mean if each cells is rated at 1600 rpms then having to many would go over the maxx rpm range wouldnt it?

[Mr. Constructor]

There are some new BL details o the Schulze german homepage, but schulze already translated them into english, that wasn´t my Part !!
Here it is, this is the ultimate answer to all these burned esc´s and motors, really do read it even TWICE !!
(this really helped me to understand the technology behind it, no it is translated into english, thats awesome
Here it is (VERY long)
(as some of my posts too J/k ;) )

Hints And Tips about selection and use of motors and speed controllers issue 09 FEB 2003
The following information will help you prevent problems when using high-current motors.
Contrary to popular behavioral treats, it is recommended that you simply read all operating instructions!
The recommendations in the chapter "Warning notes, cautions" and the chapter "Installation" should be followed strictly to avoid damages to the motor and/or controller and your wallet.
Especially in these schulze instructions you will find a lot of hints to use your controller reliably and safely.
Schulze herewith gives permission to freely print and distribute these instructions.

1st - Never exceed the maximum allowed cell count of your controller - the controller WILL overheat and the motor and/or controller WILL fail - if you are using BEC, it may fail as well so you may lose your plane.

2nd - Limit total power wire length to 20 cm (7.8") for a two lead wire, or 40 cm (15") for total wire length. This includes the cabling from battery to its connector (including the leads from cell to cell), from the connector to the esc, and from the esc to the motor.

3rd - Do use a connector set which can handle the peak currents with margin best is to use the connector pairs we recommend in our operating instructions for the permissible current ( e.g. if you use a 30 amp rated connector at 50 amps, you can damage the controller!!!).

4th - Never exceed the maximum allowed cell count of your motor and the matching reduction ratio.

5th - Never use one controller for two motors which are coupled mechanically.

Explanations:

ref. 1st - The max. allowed cell count depends on the max. allowed voltage of the power transistors used in the controller. If you exceed the voltage, the transistor "dies".

ref. 2nd - Leads and of course motors are inductive. In switching power supplies (e. g. a speed controller) inductors produce high voltage spikes (e. g. over 200 Volts) when the switching transistor is switched from ON to OFF state. A battery pack is able to clamp those high voltage peaks which can destroy your controller only when there is no or only very small induction between controller and the clamping battery.
Otherwise (with long leads) the controller does not "see" the battery and the high voltage spikes cannot be clamped - your controller gets more than the allowed voltage (see first point).
If you use an 18 cell controller with 18 cells, a spike has more "killing voltage" than a spike which is clamped by a 12 cell battery.

ref. 3rd - If you use connectors which are not suited for high currents they will become too hot because of its relatively high resistance. Hot connectors loose its spring force - even when you overheat the springs when soldering your cables on it. If you use the connectors in a car or boat you have an additional shock load on the connectors. For this reason, only bullet contacts with its multiple contact points are reliable in those models, others - good for electric powered aircraft - can not be recommended).

ref. 4th - the max. allowed cell count depends on the max. allowed power and rotation speed of your motor. If you exceed the voltage, the motor becomes overheated and/or the internal magnets depart from their mount by centrifugal force. Also you can damage the controller by the huge voltage spikes produced by the saturation of the motor.

ref. 5th - We do not recommend to use two motors on one controller (see oerating instructions). With separate props it might work, but surely not with the whole range of motors. But: If you couple one motor mechanically to another every motor produces other response signals to the controller because of its different angle of the magnets to the motor windings. This never works without problems.
For this reason we strictly recommend to use one big motor instead of two smaller motors.

Examples:

If you want to use 18 cells with a max 18 cell controller, you need an 18 cell motor and the total cable length (positive and negative wires and battery bars and connectors) needs to be less than 16 inches.
Butt (end-to-end) soldering techniques are recommended here. If you make up a pack with cell-to-cell connecting bars, then, with 18 cells, you have 17 bars with 0,75 inches each which makes 12,75 inches only for the bars. This is the reason that we urge you to use only end-to-end soldered battery packs. Otherwise, when you add your total cable length you will see that you will easily exceed the allowed maximum of 16 inches of cabling.

The next point is: If you were to use a motor with only about 5.7mOhm Ri (internal resistance) at 18 cells, then at motor start, the start-up peak current will have stored so much energy in the inductance of the motor that the voltage spike at switching off the motor can cause a voltage spike at the controller which can exceed the rated 30 volts of the power devices by a great amount (see to 2nd).

Also it is important that your connectors are rated for the currents, for instance in a high powered RC-car you need connectors for 80Amps or more!
We recommend the use of 3,5mm or 4mm gold plated "bullet" type connectors with multiple contact points.
Check the connectors frequently. If the contact force decreases, the contact spring was overloaded by the motor current!

Examples:

For 18 cells in a Emaxx you need e.g. a Hacker B50-14S.
A Hacker B50-8S is ok for 8 to 10 cells in an Emaxx, not for 18 cells (it will hit an unloaded rpm greater than 100,000 !!).

Recommendations:

for EMAXX with a Hacker motor:
with 8 cells use B50-8S (4613RPM/V) Max. 17T pinion / future-18.97F
with 10 cells use B50-12S (3033RPM/V) 18T pinion / future-18.97F
with 12 cells use B50-12S (3033RPM/V) 16T pinion / future-18.97F
or, with 12 cells use C40-11L(2727RPM/V) 18T pinion/72T main gear / future-18.61

[RadicalRustler]

Mr. Constructor - you should e-mail shulze about the mechanically connected thing, as you way works better then two seperate props, b/c one can get caught on something and fry the controller

[Mr. Constructor]

To RadicalRustler:

maybe they thought of only a plane, in this case it IS better to go with 2 ESC ´s if you wanna use two motors, when one fails (maybe too much heat) the other one could be used for landing the plane, this is OK, but in Cars, normally one BL is OK and has enough Power for the whole Car (If selected and geared right) so no 2 BL Motors are needed, mine is a very special solution, that was only used, because i had a calculation failure in my system, the one motor design has not had that much torque to power the Car directly (this is only possible with a special LRK Motor, on wich i´m working for now (in an 8th too)) so I had to go to the 2 BL setup, that was not planned at the beginning, it was added !!
(and just not to kill my wallet I really wanna try this out with 2 BL on one ESC, after some work and some testing, it worked very fine!!

But normally i plan my Cars with only one Motor (its a bit cheaper and less weight if everything is right selected.

Another thing to all that are using battery packs:

Use the synthesizing FM receiver from Graupner/JR this one is functioning with 7,2 Volts, so with 6 cells no problems with cogging AND not the extra weight, with 12 cells, use a special cable to connect only ONE battery to it, then it functions pretty well on the 12 or even the 18 cell setups (but for safety, in big scale (6th and up) a battery pack (could be even a Li Ion one) is a MUST HAVE option.

This receiver works great, I´m using it in several Cars now, having really NO PROBLEMS with it, and the best:

Channel selections are fast easy and very excellent !!

Check this out, these worked fine even in my 6th buggy !!

[RadicalRustler]

I must be the stupidest one here. My receiver can take 4.8-8.4v (traxxas) so i could have easily wired some spare receiver cable on to a battery plug and use that, saves weight and better voltage too

[RCmaniac324]

Yea RadicalRustler, while I hadn't bought a reciever pack before thinking of that idea, it works great... I attached it to the battery wires on my BL controller (so I didn't have to solder leads to every batt pack). I only use it when running on 6 cells though, b/c anything more would fry my reciever (Futaba AM 2 Channel)...and with higher cell counts, there is next to no cogging when compared with 6 cell runs w/o a reciever pack/jumper cable. I love it...much easier than a reciever pack.

[RadicalRustler]

yeah, i had it like that b/f (i thought it was making my esc work, turns out i had the esc put in right at the same time i had made those wires, but still had cogging.) I fould out later that my receiver pack slot was fried, but i could use a y harness into the signal slot to make it work, but by then i had a receiver pack.
so i would have had a good setup IF my receiver had a good receiver batt slot

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

ok i am very new to brushless motors, seen different brands and new rumores about brushless motors. the first one i heard that you can adjust the speed on a brushless, like make it a 10 turn motor one day and then make it run like a stock motor the next... is this true?? i dont think it is true but that is the kind of stuff i have been hearing. also how can you compare the speed of a brushless motor to lets say a 9 turn motor? how many RPM's will be equall to a 9 turn motor?

also i heard that BL can save battery life big time, get longer run times, is this true?

also i have been seeing BL for like 200 dollars and up, is it worth the money??? or should people just stick to the old fashioned 9 to 17 turn motors?

[Mr. Constructor]

To RadicalRustler:

Have you got a multi channel receiver 3 is enough, more is better !
if you do so, use one of the other free channels to power the receiver and servo with juice, no problem doing that, but your receiver has to be capable of hndling the voltage, be warned !!

Maybe you could solder the wires directly to the small pins on the batt con part on your receiver?? (be careful, if you hold the soldering iron too long on it, the pin might be Un-solderd itself from the circuit board, or you might be able to open the receiver and replace the worn pins with some con solution ??

There are many ways to get a receiver fitted to the Voltage !!

To JIMMYBANGBANG :
Here is a short answer to all your Questions:

The "Speed" is not adjustable directly, you could adjust the amp limiter on some esc´s, what you mean, is only a feature of the LMT Motors (except the Basic series) :

At the back you could choose delta or star conversion that means, when soldered to star, your motor behaves like the delta, but the rpm goes down by factor 1.75 and the torque goes UP by factor 1.75

A good 11T BL Motor should be the Novak SS system, many others will rev MUCH more, up to 100.000 (theoretically in normal the limit is around 70.000)

Yes they might save battery and get longer run times while providing with more power than a Normal 540 Mod. will, this is technically based, the only frictioned partrs are the ball bearings, everything else is totally friction free !!

But the motor has to be really fit the car, the setup, the esc and so on, if not, it might destroy your batts, because power is 3 times or more higher than a Normal motor mod.

BL´s for 200 USD is very CHEAP, normally there is not really a limit on the price tag, i´ve seen the new Schulze 32.170 (peak amps 250 !!!) and a torcman motor that will provide up to 3,500 Watts !!!)

That will cost you "only" 1500 USD

The price greatly depends on your needs and your wallet off course, but under 200-250 there is no BL system, so far, take a closer look to the basic from LMT the B40 or B50 from Hacker (esc´s from them too, and the novak ss system, wich has not that much power, but what I´ve heard is quiete OK in 10th sedans

The power you might need, depends on the car you wanna power.

some rugh exs.:(for some great power !!this way MUCH enough power, try to handle this, it´s difficult enough !!)

10th sedan 300 W
10th offroad 350-400 W
10th pan car 250-300W
8thz buggy 600-1000 W (E MAXX too)
6th buggy 1200- 2000 W
5th cars (same as 6th)
4th around 2000-3000W depends on weight)

Hopefully this helped you a bit,

see ya

[RadicalRustler]

mr. Constructor, my traxxas receiver can take 8.4 volts. i will check to see if i can fix it, but my car won't go any where anyways

[Mr. Constructor]

To RadicalRustler:

why could you not drive your car?? is anything really heavy broken ?
or have i missed something in the forum ??

as for the battery replacement, go with some good cons too, maybe direct soldering will be the best, but then your electronics have to stay in that specific car, bad thing !!

hopefully you´re up and driving really fast, see ya

[RadicalRustler]

right now i'm down with
1) missing the steering adapter for a traxxas servo saver to normal servo - getting one from friend, but will take at least a week
2) broke a c-hub, am getting one off the internet allong with
3) steel yokes, broke one in an atempt to get my tranny open for the first time since it was packaged as rtr (2 1/2 years) and change the oil in the diff.
4) am getting bearings and deans as option extra's, maybe an ally idler too.

[RadicalRustler]

new update, getting losi shocks -ally

[k_sw31]

Dear lord no! Not losi shocks! They'll break!


;)

[RadicalRustler]

why not? why will older losi ally model shocks break?

[k_sw31]

Its a joke, I am sorta buyist against losi ... :p

[RadicalRustler]

oh, you had me worried there for a sec. i had just bought some off jang for my rustler since it was just as cheap as new shock caps

[k_sw31]

You could try refilling your stock shocks, then putting teflon plumbers tape on the threads, that works alright.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

to Mr. Constructor:

thanks man, cleared it up for me. yea i have noticed lots of BL going for some mean cash. i think i will just wait till they start to come down in price. i think they will, look at some of the motors now, just a year ago the same motor was 69 dollars then it is selling for 29 dollars at certain hobby stores! i think brushless will go down in price once the demand starts to increase. then thats when i will pick one up. :D it all depends

[RadicalRustler]

nah, ally looks better. plus, why not?

[k_sw31]

Why not? How about "because they are losi" ;)

just kiddin' ya ;)

[HYPA]

Does the Novak SS fit neatly into a B4 coz that ESC is damn big? Also if anyone has any pics of the SS in B4 can you please post it. Ta.

[chevyman007]

Ok, this is confusing me. I heard from my lhs that he has heard about the novak ss switching profiles while they were driving. I gave this information to this board and they said they have never heard that and they all have had great success on the track with the novak. Now the other day at the track, a guy said that he heard that the brushless system at hobbytown is complete junk. So I got worried and called hobbytown and asked them what brushless system they sell , and they said NOVAK. I am so confused. Does anybody in here think that the novak is junk? How good does it really work in your opinion. Has anyone raced it? Please I need help before I go and spend 235 bucks on a brushless system.

[crono man]

the novak is not junk far from it!

I have it in my xxx buggy and it has NEVER switched profiles on me the power is awesome the brakes are awesome the throttle control is awesome.
the only problems i had were overheating but that because on a xxx buggy the body fits so snuggly against the chassis there NO air flow i cut a opening it solved the problem.
The other issue i had is stuttering during acceleration it happened twice but im 100% sure its due on my 12year old receiver!
Theres alot of people that have NEVER tried the novak and talking BS:rolleyes:

[chevyman007]

Thanks for clearing that up crono man. I never thought about that, that people just want to talk b/s about stuff they dont even have. Looks like I am going to have to sell the t-maxx now. Lets see, I am selling an unreliable nitro to buy a reliable as hell brushless system that I never have to tune or do anything, just worry about my driving skills now. YIPPI:D

[DualBL]

lol, good luck chevyman:D

[TeamMishap]

Anyone else running a B50 motor have a heck of a time getting any other pinion on other than the stock pinion that comes with an Emaxx?

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Anyone else running a B50 motor have a heck of a time getting any other pinion on other than the stock pinion that comes with an Emaxx?

When I can't get pinion gears off my 1920/5, I first try plyers. If that doesn't work I use the nail pulling end of a hammer. Every time I do it, it makes me really nervous. I know it can't be good for the motor. One of these times I'm probably going to break or bend the shaft. Or even worse, rip the whole can apart.

The hammer method does works every time though. I usually don't have to use that much pressure either. Whereas with plyers, I can try to pull the pinion gear off till I'm blue in the face and it won't budge. Do it at your own risk!

The 1920 series has a 4mm shaft. I have to get special pinion gears from Fine Design. The problem is, the pinion gears fit on the shaft really tightly. The holes in the pinion gears aren't large enough to allow a little bit of play. The gears fit on the shaft so tightly that I don't even need to use a set screw.

[Muck]

As far as the pinion gear goes, I've seen a little pinion gear puller tool somewhere, I think it was on the Tower's website. I have no link to it though. I had to pry my pinion off with two screw drivers. Maybe thats why I'm having problems now.......

I need some help with a Lerhner 4200. I was wondering if I can change the bearings myself on one these motors and if so how? I can't figure out how to open it up. Thanks in advance.

[Mr. Constructor]

To BJMFH1.01:

maybe this is a good thing (that´s what i do when these pinions on any motor will not come apart)

Use a vice for clamping the pinion in there, leaving enough room for the Motor, ONLY the pinion has to be clamped in!!
Then use a smaller in diameter piece as the bore hole from the pinion (maybe an old drill bit)
then carefully hammer the shaft down, the pinion will become loose after some time, but do NOT hammer too much, only a small tool is requiered, the magnets will go down, if they´re too much vibrated !!
(but thi works well for all motors, and is cheap and will not hurt the motor !!)

To Muck:

Why do you wann open your Motor ??
(Normally this is not allowed, it will void the warranty)
But, OK, use a self made piece of steel or alu (maybe 3mm thick (or more) and exactly copy the hole schema of the motor with the middle bore first, then the mounting bores.

Now clamp the housing in a good Vice (be extremely carefull, when clamped too much, the housing will be detroyed!!)
then take the "wrench"and untwist the top plate (counterclockwise too loose it !!)

This Procedure is working, see pics 2-3 pages back, from the inside of a BL Motor, that i opened, but be warned, THIS NOT ALLOWED; IF ANYTHING HAPPENS, THE WORST CASE MIGHT BE THE DESTRYED MOTOR !!

[Muck]

Thank you for that info. I need to replace the bearings. The motor no longer spins freely. I have some motor bearings from a brushed motor that I thought would fit it but at closer inspection my extras won't fit. What size are the bearings? Does the warrenty cover the bearings? If it does, what do I do? I bought it from Fine Design. Should I send it back to them?

[k_sw31]

I beleive the basics have flanged bearings, but I am not sure. I think rum runners and maybe fine design can replace bearings in the basic, but your best off calling them first. I wouldn't bother pulling your basic apart, unless you REALLY need too.

[DualBL]

just send it in to RRH, and they'll replace them at a pretty cheap price.

[shep]

hey if any one is interested I have a bk 18150 controller for sale never run just got it back from germany with upgraded software.

[Mr. Constructor]

To Muck:

I think it is best to ask first if the dealer/ reseller/importer will help you out with this.
The bearings are normal Metric sizes (Normal in europe and all of asia but not in the US) so you might need a special caliper, maybe this could also help: 1 inch is exactly 25.4 mm in metric, the shaft should be 4mm and the bearing will be 8 at the outer (check this out first, not every BL is the same (different series!! because i don´t know wich one you´re using)

and the bearing is flanged too, so getting those "special" Bearings might not be that easy in the US, search Acer Bearings or Tower Hobbies for these !!

But be very exact when measuring it out !! (then calculate with 3 digits after the , !!)

BE WARNED AGAIN:

IF YOU DO THIS WITHIN THE WARRANTY TIME IT WILL BE OVER WITH YOUR WARRANTY ( ;-) if they could detect it . . . . . ;-) )

[Muck]

Mr Constructor
You are right. Those are some special bearings. I was trying to guess all weekend what size they were. It was driving me crazy so I made a tool out of flat piece of steel 1.25 inch by 11 inches long and maybe 1/8 thick. Made a template of the motor then drilled the holes in the steel. Like you explained. I attached the motor to the piece of steel the used one of those wrench deals with the rubber strap to hold the can (I don't know what it's called). Worked like a charm. When I got the bearing out I measured it over and over. To make a long story short I finally decided they were 4x9x4 flanged.
I don't know if thats right, but I finally found some of that size at Boca Bearings. If they fit I'll post the results. Wish me luck.

[TeamMishap]

Anyone running one of these in their E-maxx? Are ya happy with your top speed? May be time to go with a smaller spur.

I'm thinking about getting a Lehner 4200XL or 5400XL, or maybe the B50 8S and keeping the B50 exclusively in my Evader.

[BJMFH1.01]

Question for BL truck owners, what type of springs do you gentlemen use for more than 6 cells? Should I also add shock spacers to adjust for the ride height differences?

I have a T3 and right now I'm still using the green springs that came with the kit. I think the green springs offer the least resistance out of any of the shock springs. Whenever I use more than 8 cells my truck rides really low to the ground and bottoms out after jumps.

[k_sw31]

Well, since I haven't really ran much more than 6 cells I cant tell you an exact spring setup, but check out AE's site, they have different spring weights and all. You might just pick up the packs of springs they offer, they have about 5 different sets in them, so you can tune accordingly.

You also might try switching to 40 wt oil. I found this is a bit sluggish feeling for what I use my T3 for, but if you are into jumping a lot, plus with extra weight this setup maybe okay. :)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

ok i need some advice on which brushless set up is best, i am trying to decide on buying either the novak brushless system or a hacker B50s with a BK (lehner) controller. any advice will be great, i am mostly going to be using it to race out here but as well as trying to beat some .15 1/10 scale nitro touring cars. so really which one that is faster but has breaks and reliable. thanks for any info!:D

[Bob Ebophalus]

well the hacker and lehner combo will be more powerful than the novak setup. the novak will have better low end throtle control (no cogging), but the others will have more power every where. those are the facts, now we have to wait for someone that has actually used both motors to give you a comparo.

[k_sw31]

A basic 5300 powers my stadium truck to about 40 mph, so assume you'll be doing around 45 mph in a touring car with 6 cells. On top of that awesome bottom end and mid range power. You'll definatly have more power than the novak, but as said, you'll lack the ability to really finess your throttle control. Or, you could go up to something like BJMFH has done; something like a lehner 1920/5. Couple this with a good controller and you have a setup that just plain flys. :)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

thanks for the imput, the controller that i might get with the hacker is a bk 18/70 warrior controller, and the motor is a hacker b506s motor. i wonder how fast i will go with that set up. i think i am sold on the hacker motor set up, more RPM's sounds all good to me!!!..lol:D

[k_sw31]

Well, it sounds like you are running in a touring car, in which case a 1920/5 or even a 15 series would be better suited. The B50's are more for e maxx applications, plus hacker motors sound like they have higher rpms because they measure under no load. (I beleive).

Also, if you are going to be buying a big fast motor, do not skimp on the esc. Buy a hacker master comp or lehner micro series.

[Soya v1.1]

My RS4 never went over 30 on 6 cells. On 12, I was scared :D

[Muck]

In case anybody else needs to know the Lehner basic 4200 bearing size it is 4x9x4 flanged. I found them at Boca Bearings (http://www.bocabearings.com/stock_list2.cfm) part # MF 684 ZZ. Opening the can is the hardest part the rest was easy.

[NIC]

To cronoman (since you are the treadstarter) and all other guys:


I have just finnished my conversion of my 1/8 Kanai 2 buggy to BL.
And all I can say is WOW !!!
I have raced alot with 8th nitro buggies. I had a MP 7,5 prior to thisone. And thisone gives my goosebumps when I drive it !!!!
I was able to drive a real Dodge Viper GTS and this 8th buggy gives me the same chills =) !!!
The sound is amazing. To here a motor screming past you at 50 000 rpms is unbeatable !!!.

I should post a more detalied set-up in the set-up thread soon (after I have driven some more). My packs are charging at the moment !!!

But it is a 12 cell (GP-3300 Factory cells) ride with a Hacker B50 in it, with a Schulze 18.129 to controll it.

Happy happy times !!!!
:D :D

You will not belive how long I have waited and how many mishaps I have had until this moment. Maybe I will tell the story sometime.

But for now: BL rules :D

Packs almost done......

Bye!!

NIC

[crono man]

NIC

one word
























VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!:D

[NIC]

Hello everyone !

I can´t find that BL-set-up thread ( I´m tired of searching). I think that is has been such a thred awile back. Ok anyhow here is my set-up:

Car: Kyosho MP 7,5 Yuichi Kanai Edition 2 (YK2)
Motor: Hacker B50 S11 (3309rpm/V)
Esc: Schulze 18.129F
Batteries: 12 GP3300 LRP "Factory-team" (1,175-1,179V at 30A)
Reciverbattery: 5 GP LR3 (AAA) 600mAh
Gearing: Standard, 13T clutchbell 11,7:1 I think
Tires: Ellegi tarmac 40*shore ( 96mm in diameter)
Radio: Futaba 3 PJ

Pros: *Topspeed: Around 80 Km/h or 50mph with the small tarmac tires. I´m gonna give you the excact figures here later.
*Acceleration: WOW !
*Handling: Very good, very low CG. Everything is mounted on the lower plate.
*Sound: 50 000 rpm sounds sweet :) together with the transmition.
*Smooth controll: Only a few "tick-tick-tick" from a complete standstill if I try to just crawl away. If the car is moving no such sound (cogging ?).
*Pretty cool operation: Motor-74 Celcius, esc-70 Celcius after about 15 min of running. Alot of full power acc. during that testdrive, so it´s save I think.

Cons: *Weight of the car: 3720 grams. ALOT can be done here to reduse it. This will be my winter-project. But awesome acceleration despite the weight.
*Soft breaks on the esc: Haven´t maybe dailed it in excactly right.

Overall a really awesome ride I must say :D .

I´m really happy :D .

A big "-thank you" to a certain "constructor" ;) for helping me getting my stuff.

Thanks !


NIC from Sweden

Next car to be tested: 1/10 tourer with a Hacker B40 6L. Only a esc-switch from the 1/8 buggy away.

[NIC]

To cronoman:

I told you you would be hearing from me "soon" when I replied to your "speed"-question ;) :D .

I will try to take alot of pictures for you all and make some videoclips also. I´m not that good with computers so we will see if I can manage a few "visual" effects :).
I have already some construction pictures taken but I have just showed them to friends that I have an emailadress to.

Thanks !

NIC

[yf22k]

Hey NIC,

How long have you had ur 3pjs radio? have you ever had any problems with it?

Mine started acting funny about a month ago and i sent it back for repairs last thursday. It seems the throttle wasn't centered. Somehow, full brake on the trigger was neutral to computer. I think it was a dirty POT switch but i sent it back just to be safe. Also my model memory was erased when this started happening.

-Keith

[crono man]

Originally posted by NIC
To cronoman:

I told you you would be hearing from me "soon" when I replied to your "speed"-question ;) :D .


NIC

now im really confused:D

[chuckwagon123]

Hey, I have a question that has probably been asked here about a thousand times.

How does a brushless motor work, and I know you get what you pay for so what are the benifeits to these systems.

Also I am guessing you need a special speed control for too right?

And finally, who makes them and what is the most common brand.

[k_sw31]

To my under standing, a brushless motor works by sending electicity to the windings which are stationairy in the can (where magnets would normally be). When once the windings are electrified, it energizes the armature, which is essentially a magnet with a shaft coming out of it, causing it to spin. So basically, it is a brushed motor turned inside out. Since you do not have any brushes, the only source of friction on a brushless motor are the bearings. Therefore, torque, rpm, and efficiency are greatly increased.

As far as brands go, there is Lehner, Hacker, Aveox, Modeltech, Novak and many others. The most heard of system would probably be the novak. But, companies like lehner and hacker and aveox have been around for quite a while.

[chuckwagon123]

Thank you. Just what I wanted to know.
Curiosity kills the cat.
Or the brushless motor.

I have a habbit of taking things apart to see how they work.
I magine alot of people here do too.
I type short sentences.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

ok i asked this question on the novak brushless section and nobody answered, so i guess i will ask here since everybody seems to be answering questions about brushless motors on this thread, well it is an easy one, i was reading the super sport novak controller can only take 4 to 7 cells, now why is it i see lots of cars running the novak setup and they have like 10 to 12 cells in there car. are they using different controllers i would imagine and just using the novak motor? just a little curious here thats all.:confused:

[rcmania67]

I have a TC3 and want to get into brushless system. What is the best system I should get to get it going around 60+ mph. I want to be able to beat a nitro car in drag racing. Thanks

[NIC]

Hello again everyone !

To yf22k:
I don´t like to go away from this threads subject. It is enoying for anyone who wants to read or know about BL-stuff.
Anyhow I bought it when it first was released at the market. In 1996 or so, don´t remember exactly. I hang at the LHS-door when I heard that Futaba was going to release a new radio. I have had it since then with no problem what so ever. It works fine in all my brushed set-ups and with my old Aveox RC-7 brushless set-up, but like I said I must look over it to se If I could have a little more breaks.

To cronoman:
I will refresh your memory. You remember: "Accelerate from 120-100meter mark, center the car between 100-80m, the go flat out from the 80 meter mark". "Or use the speedtrapp at the local trackclub". Something like that.

I have done some quick tests with the Hacker B40 6L in a Kyosho 1/10 TF-2 Race touring car. It went great :D. I will post a detailed rewiew at around 8pm U.K time. Or a bit later.
I ran with a 7,05:1 ratio and spongetires about 20 5sec "highspeed" passes.
The torque, or acceleration if you like were great so gearing up from there shouldn´t be a problem. The tempeture of the motor was just 44*Celsius and the esc were at 40*C measured with the raytech tempgun. You had to have a sensitive finger to even detect any "heat" from just touching the esc or the motor. I like that. No heat what so ever.
The calculated speed was around 65 km/h or 40mph and I know from previous "real messured" tests that it was those numbers. Just slightly faster.

Great **** these BL-stuff :)

See you all soon !

NIC

[NIC]

Hello !

A new test with the 1/10 sedan, now with HIGHER gearing :D.
I ran 81t spurgear and 50t pinion :eek: for a total ratio of 3,59:1 :eek:. It just kept accelerating with lower gearing so I worked my way up to this final gear-ratio. I haven´t got any other gears that gives me a higher ratio so this was what I got.
And the damn car has awesome acceleration still :eek: with this gearing:D .
I´m now in unknown speed teritory, a good guess is around 100km/h or 62mph.
I don´t like these estimated figures but I think I´m pretty close anyway. I only like hard facts so I promise to measure it correctly tomorrow with a special electric speed-trap.

Ok the set-up was this:

Car: Kyosho TF-2 R
Motor: Hacker B40 6L
Esc: Schulze 18.129F
Batteries: 6 GP 3300:s LRP factory cells
Gearing: 81/50 and 2,214 internal, total ~3,59:1
Tires: LRP foams, 40* shore front, 35* rear
Body: HPI Subaru Impreza :)

The motor produces nothing or no heat. This is due to my gentle acceleration so there isn´t alot of amp-draw. Temp was 52*C and the esc 42*C, so you are just able to feel it with a finger if you hold it long enough.

This is to much fun, I have a pack charging now I must give it another go :) .

Thanks !

NIC

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by JIMMYBANGBANG
ok i asked this question on the novak brushless section and nobody answered, so i guess i will ask here since everybody seems to be answering questions about brushless motors on this thread, well it is an easy one, i was reading the super sport novak controller can only take 4 to 7 cells, now why is it i see lots of cars running the novak setup and they have like 10 to 12 cells in there car. are they using different controllers i would imagine and just using the novak motor? just a little curious here thats all.:confused:

I have yet to hear of a car running over 7 cells on a novak. I suppose you could use one of aveox's controllers to do that many cells, but I have not heard of it happening.

rcmania67- A good setup for speeds like those, I would say get something like BJMFH has; a leher 1920/5 and a hacker master comp. You may have to do more that 60 cells to do over 60, but it wont be hard. :)

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by rcmania67
I have a TC3 and want to get into brushless system. What is the best system I should get to get it going around 60+ mph. I want to be able to beat a nitro car in drag racing. Thanks

Lehner 1920/5 and a Hacker Competition should do the trick. The 5300 is a great motor for touring cars too. It's a great system for using 6 cells; it's when you want to use more than 8 cells that you'll start running into problems. The system itself is working perfectly; I'm just having trouble finding a way to put all the power down with destroying my drivetrain.

I recently put my 1920/5 back in my TC3. It does just fine with 6 cells. Anytime I use over 8 cells, tall gearing (23/72 and up), and mash on the throttle from a standstill, the shaft expands and almost bends itself in half. I've already replaced 3 shafts. There's nothing wrong with my drivetrain either.

I don't know if I'm explaining this correctly. It's like when your tires balloon, the same thing is happening to my shaft (get your head outta the gutter, thats not what I meant!). With shorter gearing, 18/72 and lower, this doesn't happen.

I've tried foam tires, street tires, and rubber slicks. The end result is always the same.

Something similar happens to my T3 as well. Anytime I use over 10 cells and mash on the throttle from a standstill, the spur gear melts onto the slipper clutch.

The people at my hobby shop can't believe the manner in which I mangle parts.

[NIC]

Hello everyone !

The real speed have been measured for my TF-2 R with a speedtrap used to time sprinters (I´m a sprinter myself).
The test was performed at a newly laid ( only 2-3 weeks old)asfalt road away from the traffic.

Same equipment as before, 6 cells, foamtires, 3,59:1, Subaru body ( that one is NOT a very aerodynamic one, and it´s 200mm also !). Anyways.

The results:

The flying 60meters were coverd in 2,08 seconds as best time.
Several runs were made in both directions to eleminate the winddirection and the roads angle ( it was completely flat).
The 2 fastest passes were the 2,08 sec and then 2,12 sec from the other direction.
I felt that I haden´t got the cars topspeed really up to maximum when I passed the first sensor but it was pretty close anyway.
I feel that the 2 sec flat is a more fair number and by no means unreachable.

I ate before I went out and I missed the peak from the charger, so the voltage had droped abit and I made some "testruns" also before I actually timed it. And the test were made not with my best pack, "only" 1.154 V at 30 A.

Topspeed:

60m/2,08sec*3,6= 103,8 km/h or 64,5 mph

My estimated topspeed yesterday were pretty close to the real measured one I got here today.

I´m gonna go and test the Kanai maybe tonight.

Overall I´m happy with the speed since I broke the 100 Km/h or the 60mph barrier without any problems with only 6 cells.

I have a Trinity Swithblade 10 also.......:D
But I don´t know if their is room for the Hacker in that rear pod. I´m gonna look at it.

Thanks !

NIC

[yf22k]

Hey NIC, yeah sorry about that. I'm just anxious to try out some custom mods i made to my f201 to better reinforce it for my lehner 5300. I stripped some counter gears but now they should be fine. I just need to get my radio back now!

[NIC]

yf22k:

No worries, it sounded as if I was angry and so. It got so "flat" when I wrote it. I´m maybe not to good to express my self, heck I´m only a swede ;) :D .
And belive me, I know the term "waiting for RC-equipment".......
I hope you get it back soon so you can get up on the sadle again friend :) .

I´m just enjoying my time now with BL-stuff.
The esc was moved back to the Kanai and I tried to use standard off-road tires. The speed is almost like the TF-2 R maybe just as fast because it is a much bigger ride so you can get the illusion of it being slower.
This car I have alot of respect for, I´m almost afraid when I pull the throttle....kinda like Vin Disel is for the 800hp musclecar in the movie "Fast and the furious".

I can say that this car is MUCH faster then my "old" MP 7,5 with O.S race preped engine :eek: . I have competed with 1/8 buggies for a few years so I know what I´m talking about. I quit that because of the high costs but I´m back to them now, they are just simply alot of fun :).
I will tell you how the race ended against the nitro-buggys when I meet them, they are up for a real surprise ;) :D.

Thanks!

NIC

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

that sounds like fun, wish you can put it on a movie so we all can get hyped up.

i am doing something alike but different cars, i am trying to beat all these guys that race NTC3 and super nitro cars and the duratrax nitro touring cars, they all looked at me one time and said you will never be able to make an electric car beat a gas car, i grinned and said ok its on, so now i am trying to find a hacker system, i was going to buy a system nt too long ago but the seller backed out, so i think i might just buy everything brand new, my question is i want to get the C40 7T, but i dont want to spend 270 dollars on a controller. i have noticed there are cheaper ones out there that will do the job, so i am hoping someone out here can tell me which ones will work best and arent hurting my pockets either and will be great for the job i am trying to do. also i heard some controllers dont have the option for brakes, also i have noticed some controllers have that reverse option which i dont need. if any body has any advise on what to get that will be great and well appreciated, thank you:D

[Mr. Constructor]

To NIC:

great to hear that everything is fine now !! (the speeds are really that fast, that makes so much fun to drive a so powered 8th buggy !!
Doesn´t it ??
BL in a 8th buggy with 12 cells really is the pace to go, nothing could touch that feeling, nor the overpowered Trucks with maybe up to 30 cells !!
these 8th buggys are way more stable to drive, that IS the fun !!

To JIMMYBANGBANG

as for an esc maybe take a closer look to the LMT Warrior 9918/3 BEC series, this esc really is good for almost every application, if you dial in the system right !!

another relatively cheap thing is to go with some other LMT esc´s, all other brands that will make this power (kontronik, schulze, hacker) cost 2 x the money the lmt costs, but the LMT is a little rougher with the low end speed and does have possibly (depends GREATLY on setup!!) more cogging than the others !!

But if you really wanna have a bomb proof esc, then go with the schulze 18.128 (that one NIC is using, seems to be a VERYX good choice, but costly too !!

Don´t waste your money, choose the best suited esc to your needs, NOT depending on the price tag, you will be that angry, if anything will break or melt down, due to too low cost things !!
(i really had a hard time with a friend of mine, I could not understand the whole thing up to today, but his system burned down, normally it has to function, we are still searching for the really ground effect on it !!)

really go in the tech datas and then choose your esc !!
(I know, money is always playing a role, but it could be better to use the more exp. esc !!

[yf22k]

Hey NIC,

I know you didn't mean to sound angry. I was just being curious...hoping to get my radio back at the end of the week so i can run my bl this weekend

[Miha]

NIC, I had to write something after I saw you use B50 11s. I am using very similar motor, Hopf Viper 500/11 which is like Hacker just with stronger rotor magnet. It does not spin 50000 rpm under load on 12 cells; you can calculate rpm backwards from the speed of your car.
I am using in one of my Straightaway boats in 18 cell class. I was the fastest in this class on last week German SAW www.german-saw.de . Not to mention 24 cell class, but that was other motor ;) Look also on Lehner main page.


And that B40 6L. I use quite similar motor 1530/6 in my 8 cell SAW boat.


Mr. Constructor if you recall me I wrote to you emails about your 8th scale buggy. I didn't had time to answer them as my main interest are still boats and there is no big time for other projects.

But sometime .... buggy converstion will come. I am also peeking on HPI Super RS4 for trying it with 1530/6 and 8 cells ;)

Mr. Constructor why do you still write LMT controllers? They are made by BK Electronics. I find new software on micro 18 and 30 series very smooth on low throttle. I didn't tested it in cars but you can also feel that in boats.

Keep more reports coming! Videos could be nice too!

[crono man]

anybody know the power output(wattage) of a lehner 1920/5 motor at 6cells?

[Miha]

If your cells can deliver , than 800 W at least.

I spoke to Mr. Lehner on German SAW and he said you can have pushed, matched and pressed 6 cells RC2400 deliver 1000 W for short time.

Michael Sallfner drove 1920 (I don't know how many turns) in his 6 cell hydro and onboard GPS said 124 km/h - about 77 mph. If a boat can go that fast, car can be faster.

But I doubt anyone here has enough experience or knowledge how to do this witout blowing and destroying much expensive things.

[NIC]

Hey all !

To Miha:
I just need 15.1 V from my packs for the motor to rev 50 000rpm.
They put out 14 V or just above at 30 A and I higlhy doubt that the car pulls more then 30 A or even 20A at maxspeed.

I estimate the cars speed to about 80-85 km/h with stock gearing and Ellegi tarmacs (96mm). I have a pretty good eye.
In that case the motor would spinn ~52 000-55 000 rpm wich makes the cells put out 15,7-16,6 V and I don´t think that is impossible.

I actually bought ( or orderd, more correctly ) some new freaky, badass, psycho-cells with 1,197 V at 30 A.
And I´m absolutely positively shure that they will pull the car to over 80 Km/h.

And if Hacker has the differens in rpm/volt as Lehner has up to 3% +/- from one motor to the other I might have an extra 100rpm/Volt (or 1500rpm with 12 cells) just there.

But I will see if I have the time maybe tonight to set-up the speed-trap and measure it.

I´m actually not that interested in how fast the cars go on the straight. I intend to use them not only for screaming up and down the street, but for actual racing.
I´m more interested in how they will perform on the track with cornering speeds and jumping and so on. Since I have change the CG for the better and the front/back balance is pretty much 50/50 as are the side to side balance.

Stay tuned !

Thanks !

NIC

[Mr. Constructor]

to Miha

really good power in those boats !!
(mine does "only" have 12 cell power from an older Kontronik Motor, it still runs pretty well with the 65 Km/h (maybe around 40-45 miles/h) its enough, my main ineterest is on Cars, the boat was only a step in between, my motor was new, and the car in wich it had to go, needed more power, so i decided to use it in the B24 model from Graupner, this Fibre thing is quite well, with a hydro marine drive (the pro alu versions) and a carbon prop, the boat could fly !!
(its enough for me, only "bashing around" not getting into race any more !!)
(but i do look over the horizon to other classes what is going on there whenever i could!!

as for the LMT, i thought mr. Lehner said to me (OK some time ago) that he is the one who makes the "ideas" (construction) and BK is mass producing them and handling the repair and international distribution, i got some LMT motors maybe 5 or more years ago, so i really am stucked to the LMT logo !! ;-)

No matter with the e mails, use the : constructor@ace-cars.de for mailing, don´t take a look at the homepage, it is still NOT ever in the beginning, i haven´t had the time !!
(and i do wanna use my own server (money is missing have you expected another thing ?? ;-) ) as i then will have enough place for everything (vids pics and detailed descriptions etc. for all kind of cars and projects from people!!)

See you later !!

8in the mails you could answer in german or in english, your decision !!)

[crono man]

hey guys any of you running the novak bl in a xxxs TC?

do you think the belt will skip?

[k_sw31]

PFFFT! Losi! :p

Get a TC3 if you ask me. After the two belt cars I have owned (though they were hpi's) I am 100% convinced that shaft drive is the only way to go. Less rotating mass, pebble and dirt proof, much easier to deal with in most aspects. Plus with shaft drive there is a lot less that can go wrong, in terms of reliability and durability.

[DualBL]

hey everyone
www.brushless.owns.it has a chat room set up now (not that advanced or anything, but it works)

also, it's been updated with some new vids, and LOTS of new pictures.
if you have any pictures or vids, please send em to brushless@sbcglobal.net
thanks
-Nick

also, if anyone has a PAIR of used brushless motors that they're willing to sell for around $300, lmk
I'm looking for B50 sized or bigger. :)

[NIC]

Hello everyone !

I have got the speed-illnes now. I was out just now and tested my 1/10 sedan on 8 cells :) . The speed was sick....:). But alot of fun I must say. I can´t remember when a piece of road ended so quickly before....:).
Again I will estimate the speed. Real speeds soon. I would guess about 120 km/h or 75 mph but it can really be 130 to, it´s getting hard to estimate now when the speeds are so high.

But now for the really interesting stuff:
I don´t use regular cells (sub-c:s) :eek:. I use a cell called FAUP, it´s a much smaller and lighter cell. The lenght of it is the same as a sub-c but the diameter is only 17mm compared to 23 for a sub-c. It weighs just 39 grams compare to 63 grams for the GP:s.
The cells deliver all the power you want and is 144 grams lighter for a 6 cell-pack then a GP-pack.
Ok the cells are "only" 1950 mAh but you will make the runtime anyhow with a brushless set-up due to the overall lighter car.

Are you seeing the future now ? I am.

Put in a Hacker B40 S or a small Lehner 1515 or 1520 and you will have a 200 gram lighter car and still have more power then a brushed. Imagine the handling-advantage the lighter car would have. Cornering speeds, breaking, acceleration (offcoarse), lower CG and much more....

The development on these cells should not be forgotten. I think they can be interesting in the future. Heck they are interesting right now......

I have my FAUP:s on charge now :eek:

See you all !

Thanks !

NIC

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

now that sounds koll as hell. wish you can post up some pics of your set up if you dont mind!!:D

[absoluteracing]

Originally posted by k_sw31
PFFFT! Losi! :p

Get a TC3 if you ask me. After the two belt cars I have owned (though they were hpi's) I am 100% convinced that shaft drive is the only way to go. Less rotating mass, pebble and dirt proof, much easier to deal with in most aspects. Plus with shaft drive there is a lot less that can go wrong, in terms of reliability and durability.


I don't know about that. I saw a vid of an RS4 MT with a 4200 lehner bl motor and it was insanely fast, to say the least. You might still be able to download it at DualBL's web site. Click on the link above

[NIC]

Hello !

Real track-test:

Car: TF-2R
Motor: Hacker B40 6L
Batteries: 8 FAUP 1950mAh
Esc: Schulze 18.129F
Gearing: 108/32~7,47:1

The acceleration is eyewatering :eek: :D. The punch out of corners is untouchable :eek:. I wonder if even a 1/8 track car can catch me ..... freaking unbeliveable !!!!
The rear belt started to skip just a few teeth here and there in the end of the run. But boy oh boy was it fun :D.
The cells are amazing :). 9 min of run time :eek:. They got into "dump-mode" at 9.10 and boy did they drop fast !!! I coulden´t finish the lap !!

And now the temps:

Motor: 52,4*C
Esc: 46,7*C
Batteries: 48,3*C :eek: They wasn´t even warm to the touch !

Pros: Well......Guess !!! Everything !

Cons: None !!!! Not even one single thing ! Well...... the rear pulley for the rear belt maybe has to be changed as well as the belt itself. They wasn´t new when I tested the car so I don´t think they will skip if they are fresh, but hey............I don´t mind :).

Just WOW...... That´s all I have to say :)

Thanks !

NIC

[DualBL]

nope, my site is on a free host now, and all vids are down, but pictures are up, but as bandwidth excedes, the site will prolly become unavailable every now and again.
oh yeah, don't mind the url :p

[Miha]

NIC, I am glad to hear you liked the FAUP cells. I use this cells also in my SAW boats and set new record in 24 cell hydro class with top speed of 152+ km/h.

I got these cells from Hopf. Pushed and Matched. They are great. In first few cycles I charged them at 3 A constant, but then I later hit 6 Amps. They are just nuts. :D

http://www.hopf-shop.de/product_reviews_info.php?products_id=546&reviews_id=76

I am glad to hear almost the same combo which propelled my 8 cell SAW boat to 111 km/h also works in a car.

EDIT:

These FAUP cells are also used in pylon airplanes at speed close to 300 km/h. They are using 10 of those (P&M) and (hey, NIC ;) ) B40 6L (special carbon case, see Hacker for Pylon motor).

However since they dump then in little more than a minute, cells are dead in 2 to 6 flights. :(

[NIC]

To Miha:

Yes, they are sooo great :D. I´m not ever going to buy a sub-c cell again to a 1/10 sedan. What is the point ?
I got 9 min of runtime, I wouldn´t ever have dreamed of that kind of run-time, and then to get those kind of speeds that I got....It´s amazing :).
And the best point is that everything stays really really cool :eek: :D. This is the future !

I just ordered a HPI Pro 4 from my LHS just a few hours ago. it will be deliverd in october.
It will be equipt with 8 FAUP:s since they take up as much room as 6 GP:s, a Hacker B40 8S or a Lehner 1515/10 or a 1520/8 haven´t desided yet and a Schulze 12.97 to controll it.
The car will be 100 grams lighter or more ( depending on the motor) then a brushed set-up and ALOT more power :D.

It sure is going to be a exciting construction-winter this year.
I feel like a new step has been taken on the electric-stair.

Exciting times :) !

Thanks !

NIC

[Miha]

Hi NIC,


do you have some photos of your cars? Videos?

>
It will be equipt with 8 FAUP:s since they take up as much room as 6 GP:s, a Hacker B40 8S or a Lehner 1515/10 or a 1520/8
>

I suggest if you want to go with 8 FAUP, go for a Lehner 1525/7 or really hot 1525/6. 15 and 20 series do not deliver the torque you want to have. B40 8S is also an option.

But I think you can go away with 6 FAUP cells just fine. Here you can go with 1520 or even 1515 Lehner series.


Where are you buying FAUP cells? Price compared to SC cells is also great, isn't it? ;)

[NIC]

To Miha:

No photos yet. I work tooooo much so I haven´t had the time to buy a digital-camera. But soon when the workload is less I will try to take both photos and videos.

The motor will be desided when we have made our new indoor-track. We plan on a new layout.
Usually we do our tracks alot more technical then the southern part of Sweden. So that we eleminate the use of powerful motors and batteries. Doing so doesn´t scare away the new ones to the sport.
So I think I can get away with the 1515. Then I can just use my B40 L on our big outdoor 1/8 track. But we will see, maybe the B40 S.
Yes, I could most certain get away with 6 cells and just do a really lightweight car but once you have felt the punch with 8 cells you don´t want to go back ;).

The price is really good with the FAUP:s.
I payed ~89 Euros for my factory GP:s and I only payed 6 Euros/cell for the FAUP:s, so 36 Euros or 48 for a 8 cell pack......I can live with that ;).

[BLRustler]

Why is there no POST NEW THREAD BUTTON on this page?

[DualBL]

what are you talking about?
you're in the brushless thread, so you use post reply

if you want to start a new thread, go to the main forum, and click new thread.

NIC, where can I get these cells, and what can charge em?

[BLRustler]

Now I got it.Thanks

[TeamMishap]

I don't think I'll use any pinions but Traxxas brand on my Hacker any more. They seem to grab tighter than the Robinsons and don't let go under high rpm.

[NIC]

To DualBL:
I just know were I get mine and you aren`t from Sweden right ?
I think they are pretty new on the market, they are new to me anyhow.
I got them from a well known airplane shop in Sweden who only deals with electric flights. I also got the esc from them.
So my suggestion for you is to look around for airplane-dealers in your country. That`s what I did. Alot of phone-calls but it is worth it.

For the charger:
Do you use GP:s now or some other NiMh-cells ? I´m sure your charger in that case will charge these cells too. I use two Competition Electronics chargers connected to a 12V car battery and I charge them at 3 amps. It seems to work fine.

They seem to have a really low IR since they don´t get warm either from discharge or charging.
They have a really "straight" or level discharge-curve. The voltage doesn´t drop during the discharge but then it really "dies" suddenly at the end. That is what you want but it came as a surprice for me when I didn´t made it back to the pits and had to go and get my car at the far end of the track.

My GP:s are really match also but doesn´t come near the FAUP:s in that area.


To Miha:
The cells just have that "paperlike" protection around them right ?
I put a suitable shrinkwrap around them but is it really needed ?
Could you just leave them like they are or does the "paper" wear of after a period of time ? It´s no big deal, I´m just wondering if you have experience that with them.

Thanks !

NIC

[Miha]

Hi NIC,

yes, they are paper wrapped. Sanyo cells which are meant for power tools, etc, have paper wrappings. But these gems are like wolf in sheep coating ;)

I got many many cells for all of my SAW boats and removing paper per hand would take days! So I have put them in water. Water level till the pos. pole so there is no electrolysis. I left them for a minute sitting in there. Then the wrapping goes away very easily. I wiped the cells dry and clean.

I solder them end to end and I found that they are really "pain" to solder. They have incredible low heat resistance, well they "take away" the heat from soldering iron. Much faster than any other cell I have soldered (and I've soldered 100s of cells). This means only good - the internals are all very well conected to the case - low overall cell resistance!

Then you have to options. To go shrink wrap or Kapton tape (look or ask in the store for Kontronik Goldfix Kapton tape). I really like Kapton tape as it is much more heat resistance, but you say, the cells are getting barely warm. So shrink tubing them is OK.

Here is a photo of my 8, 12, 18 and 24 cell packs after the runs on single cell discharging devices (my own "construction").

EDIT:

Charge them 3 Amp constant. Till they are warm! Warm cells perform best so they should go in the car warm! If you want to see their full potential charge them at 6 amp till they get warm, almost hot. Right temparature is "measured" very easily. You grab the cells strongly and if you can hold them for more than 10 seconds then they are still not warm enough.

[2ffu]

hey guys what up. i have heard here on this bored some have taken 1/8 scale buggies and made them brushless. i would like to do this to my axis but i need help on what to do. here is what i have to work with.

[DualBL]

first, you need to take it apart :-P
just all the nitro stuff.
then, get a Emaxx spur, and see if you can get it on the center diff, if not, you'll need a Dominator center Locked spool.
then attach the emaxx spur onto it.
then, get a emaxx motor mount, and drill 2 holes, and screw to the mechanical brake holes on the diff holder.
then you have the hard part done
now just figure out how to mount the steering servo, batts, and all electrics.
other questions, just ask.

[2ffu]

thanks for the help i shall start tonight

[2ffu]

well i have a good start on my 1/8 electric

the mounts have been ca in for tempary stuff here are some pics. i got the center diff apart and i could put an emaxx spur on there easaly

[2ffu]

pics 2

[2ffu]

pics 3 is there a way to use this motor mount?

[DualBL]

wow that's a motor mount?
you got alot done! lol
I'm not sure if you can use that mount, but wouldn't hurt trying.
just throw a motor on it, and get the emaxx spur on it, and see if it will line up.
where'd you get that mount btw?

[2ffu]

well i got the mount form blacken ( on the boards) . i found out he lived near me. i also got the axis from him. when he saw what i was doing he ran home and came back whit this . it even has tabs tapped for a 4-40 screw. as soon as i can run to the lhs i will get a gear. i can't wait for chanuka ( yeah i am jewish) so i can maby get a hacker c50 with a sport controller. or if i can be patient i will through my novak system in there

[2ffu]

why couldn't i use the 1/8 scale spur gear?

[DualBL]

ofna nitro's use M1 Gears.
these are a special pitch, that you can't get pinions for elec, that are M1, and if you can, they're hard to find and $$$

[k_sw31]

Yeah, from what I have read ofna and some other 1/8th scale buggy mfg's use M1; essentially a metric 32 pitch, but the teeth are different enough to where 32 pitch and m1 do not mesh properly. Basically, I would pick up a 32 pitch pinion for now, and see if it meshes good with the stock spur (that would mean its probably 32 pitch)...but also pick up an emaxx spur while your at it.

[2ffu]

ok i will. do you think a novak would have enough power because i can't send alot and i already have a ss system. also it is a duratrax spur gear. so it could work

[DualBL]

duratrax may work
one novak SS wouldn't do to well but 2 would most likely do better.
if you don't have money for Big brushless power, I'd highly recomend getting a pair of Titans, and an eVX from an Emaxx, and using that.
altho, the evx can be expensive also, it's a good alternative.
and replacing the titans is really cheap.

[2ffu]

hmm...............looks like the only way to get this to work is to spend alot of cash. i was hoping to get it done under 50. even if i geared it lowlike 15 tooth pinion or even 13. i mean 2 titans and the evx is 160. the a motor plate 10 bucks canectors it wold be like 175 still cheaper than a brushless but still way to expensive:( i may have to sell my cat 3000 to do this:( :(

[DualBL]

it'd be worth it :D

[2ffu]

hmmm:rolleyes:

[k_sw31]

Check ebay...many people just rip the titans and evxs strait out of their e's and just sell em for cheap....look around...


On the other hand...you could go for a 1920/5 and a micro controller...;)

[2ffu]

the hacker is 370. i will use the novak for a while till i save up about 200. but sice the hacker is sensorless won't it cog and not be as smooth as my sensored novak?:confused:

[2ffu]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Check ebay...many people just rip the titans and evxs strait out of their e's and just sell em for cheap....look around...


hmmmm

i would like to thank k_sw31 and dual bl for all thier help

[2ffu]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3143007479&category=34061 i will get this and sell the tranny and pay nearly nothing for the evx and motors. or i could buy the evx for bot 50 and the titans for about 15



hmmm............................:confused:


2ffu

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by 2ffu
the hacker is 370. i will use the novak for a while till i save up about 200. but sice the hacker is sensorless won't it cog and not be as smooth as my sensored novak?:confused:

Well, cogging has to do with BEC, and voltage the esc is getting, since you will probably want to run atleast 8-10cells (Fun!) you'll need an rx pack, so chances are you would experience very little cogging.

[2ffu]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Well, cogging has to do with BEC, and voltage the esc is getting, since you will probably want to run atleast 8-10cells (Fun!) you'll need an rx pack, so chances are you would experience very little cogging.


reciever pack-30
8-10 cell packs-$$$

damn my little 6 cell packs

[2ffu]

my lhs has a few m1 pinions. but are to high on the tooth count.and i refuse to pay 25 dollars for a pinion.that is jsut outragous.:o

[BL10T]

Greetings all,

Well, I have now become a dual-BL guy. My 10T has a Hacker-Lehner setup and now my TC3 has a Novak BL. I haven't really tested it yet but it seems just as fast as the 9T Speedgems/TC2 combo that was in there before with more torque The equipment:

TC3
Novak BL
Futaba 3PDF-X
Servo-Crappy S148
Batteries-Old red Sanyo 1400SCR-Remember those?

Here's the pic on my new 4MP Canon G2.

JC