View Full Version : Team Associated Monster GT
Jamie
12-26-2003, 10:05 PM
It by passes the BEC circut that is normally used to reduce the input voltage to 6 volts when the receiver is powered by a 7.2 volt battery in an electric. There appears to be something wrong with the BEC circut in the MGT's receiver which reduces the 6 volt receiver pack to less than 6 volts when it should let the full 6 volts through. I bought an extra receiver for my JR XS3 that I use for racing my RC10GT so I could run both the MGT and Gt on one radio and on the XS3 receiver all the stock servos work as they should even with the 4 cell battery holder. I can crank the wheels lock to lock on the rug or pavement compared to barely moving with the stock receiver.
cbr74
12-26-2003, 10:13 PM
The BEC circuit drops the input voltage by 1.2 volts, it's a simple resister circuit designed to drop the voltage a pre-set amount for electric vehicles.
When you put the battery connector into channel 4, it by-passes the BEC circuit and allows full voltage to the servos.
TheGeneralG
12-27-2003, 01:46 AM
Wondering if the XTM .247 engine would work on this beast of a machine? I really like the .247 engine, strong power. Think it is better than the TT engine?
cbr74
12-27-2003, 01:56 AM
Will it work? Yes.
Better than the TT? The .247 (so I hear) has a ton of low end grunt, but lacks the top end RPM's of most .21's so it would probably be noticeably better on the acceleration but might lose some top speed. I say MIGHT.. I dunno, have never tried one.
The TT just runs so well... decent power, easiest tuning I've ever seen, starts up within two pulls every time. I'll be running the TT for a while just because it is so user friendly. Massive horsepower is usless if you spend half your time yankin on the pullstart or fussin with needle settings.
Techspert
12-28-2003, 12:31 AM
I replaced the original servo with a Hitec 645mg only to be dissappointed by the performance. It actually seemed worse than the stock servo! :confused:
I then tried putting the battery on channel 4 on the receiver and BOOM, instant power! :p
These minor upgrades are a testament to how well made the Monster GT is. Other trucks need huge upgrades and lots of tweaks/performance parts just to come close to the STOCK durability of the Monster GT. I'm glad I bought this truck.
My only upgrade will probably be a WASP or Picco .26 engine.
cbr74
12-28-2003, 01:06 AM
The 645 isn't much of an upgrade... 22 oz more torque, but no faster than the stocker.
I finally got good enough weather to test the steering modifications. Steering is vastly improved, it feels much more responsive and maneuverable. I'm still not thrilled about the speed of the steering... I did one final adjustment... I put the drag link in the second hole out on the Kimbrough. I had to dial back the dual rate to keep it from stalling the servo. Steering is now faster, but it doesn't give the servo as much mechanical advantage... which may or may not make a difference. I'll try to re-test tomorrow.
RCRACER2471
12-28-2003, 11:24 AM
Since we are on the topic of steering I was looking for a new servo. The Hitec 645mg servo isnt all that great even with a 5 cell battery pack. What would you reccomend?
BTW I have the JR X2i radio and not the stock one....
Boostedbruiser
12-28-2003, 02:18 PM
I have one of these servos for my MGT. I was wondering why no one else ever mentions this servo. i think its great. 188 in oz of torque. And .13 sec of transit time for 60 degrees. (6.0 volts)
i got mine off ebay (new) a few months back for 50 bucks. the average price is around 70.00
Does anyone else have experience with this servo? I see everyone talking about the JR's and airtronics, but the price is killer.
If 130 in oz torque is enough and you just want more spped i thnk this servo is a good choice.
I've only used this servo in my storm. i haven't put it in my BFT yet.
thanks
cbr74
12-28-2003, 02:34 PM
I've used both the digital and non-digital 9 series HiTec's... they work well, but don't have the dependability that the JR and Airtronics' have.
The only servo I'd choose to upgrade my MGT with would be an Airtronics 94358Z.
RCRACER2471
12-28-2003, 04:34 PM
I keep hearing about that XTM Punisher servo that puts about 170 oz. of torque and you can get it for only $35. I wonder how good and reliable those are. The airtronics servos are nice but there just too expensive for me...
rampbrian
12-28-2003, 07:58 PM
I finaly got my tranny shifting in to second gear, I took it all apart and put a dab of loc tite on the set screw, it seemed loose, so now im hitting second gear, and im happy,
the thunder tiger engine realley revs , what do you guys think it revs up to, maby 38,000 rpm?
im wishing I had some more top speed, but dont want to kill my low end take off or hill climbing ability, what do you guys sugest? maby going to a 49 tooth spur? right now im 100% stock
RCRACER2471
12-28-2003, 08:31 PM
Just go down a tooth or 2 on the spur gear. You'll see a difference. A way of making it faster without costing anything is by adjusting the shift point on your two speed. Turn the set screw a little bit and there you go you have more speed. Easy as that...
CK9887
12-28-2003, 08:42 PM
I have a JR 8550 Serov for my MGT and it works well but it should considering it cost me 115$.
It has 188oz of torque at .15sec.
RCRacer- I dont think adjusting the shift point would give you a better top end???
RCRACER2471
12-28-2003, 09:46 PM
Originally posted by CK9887
I have a JR 8550 Serov for my MGT and it works well but it should considering it cost me 115$.
It has 188oz of torque at .15sec.
RCRacer- I dont think adjusting the shift point would give you a better top end???
Why would the 2 speed be adjustable then? It wouldnt be there for no reason...
RCRACER2471
12-28-2003, 09:46 PM
Originally posted by CK9887
RCRacer- I dont think adjusting the shift point would give you a better top end???
Why would the 2 speed be adjustable then? It wouldnt be there for no reason...
cbr74
12-28-2003, 10:48 PM
The 2 speed is adjustable to compensate for gearing changes. Adjusting the 2 speed will not affect overall top speed because the final drive gear ratio does not change.
It can, however, greatly affect acceleration. A shift point that is too soon or too late does not make optimal use of the engine's powerband.
eurylokhos
12-28-2003, 11:50 PM
He's absolutely right, adjusting the 2 speed has absolutely no impact on top speed. The ratios of the 2 speed stay fixed no matter what adjustment you make to the 2 speed screw, the only thing you are changing is when it switches from 1st to second.
Boostedbruiser
12-28-2003, 11:53 PM
I have a question. is the stock servo saver any good? do i need to upgrade to a kimbrough? or another?
I was looking today online at some of the parts of the MGT and thought to myself, why couldn't you make a servo saver from the original bellcrank?
all you would have to do is use a saver from a 1/8 buggy or simlar and then make a 45 degree cut on the shaft of the bellcrank. then attach the spring and washers and so on from the loaner servo saver. maybe i need to draw a puicture? Heck maybe it can't be done.
So far i don't like how the servo saver is on the servo. If the truck was smaller no problem, but since its got so much mass to swing around it seems to small.
Has many people had problems with the saver?
any ideas? thanks
cbr74
12-29-2003, 12:06 AM
When I was working on improving the MGT's steering I did go to the big HD Kimbrough saver. I can't say how much improvement the saver alone made, as I did several modifications at once. The net result, however, was very positive.
As for making a saver from the existing bellcrank.. I wouldn't advise it. The v-cuts would need to be very precise and leave little room for error.
TheGeneralG
12-31-2003, 12:19 AM
I too would like to know if there is anyone using the XTM Punisher servo. I find this VERY attractive for the $35.00 price tag. Can't wait till tomorrow, getting my MONSTER GT!!!!!!!!!!
RCRACER2471
12-31-2003, 11:08 AM
I havent used the XTM punisher servo but im thinking about getting it for the cheap price it has. Let me know how it works if you get one....
tripplefatty
12-31-2003, 02:47 PM
so the truck has been out fr some time now..& i would like to no how is it holding up to the beating.??...what motors have you guys tryed & how is it holding...any weak parts that would need to be fixed....are the diffs holding good???..do the stock shock leak oil..when going for big air...see i crush trucks ( i run my trucks very hard) & would like to no if this gt would up for some ytime... thanks guys
rampbrian
12-31-2003, 04:32 PM
so far the only problem I had is I lost the front pin for front wheel drive, its new years now, so it will take associated a fiew days to help me out,
the mgt runs well with the stock engine, it makes me happy, I have not had the ability to jump it in big air yet so I dont know how it is for that.
CK9887
01-01-2004, 06:27 PM
I also lost that little pin and so i dont have RWD. So i havent driven it in a couple weeks cause my hobby shop is waiting for the part.
I noticed after a few days of bashing, the shocks are much more sloppy then when they were new, but its like that with most trucks.
RCRACER2471
01-01-2004, 06:47 PM
The only problem ive had with my truck is the shock caps popping off after going off a few jumps. I also lost a pin to one of the cva's making it 2wd and got a free replace from Team Associated a week later. Overall great truck and I would reccomend it to any backyard basher or racer....
tripplefatty
01-01-2004, 07:29 PM
so the shocks are junk... they didnt look very good to me any how....the motor will be ok for a little bit ...i just like to put alot of money it to these truck...because you never get it out when you sell them...so im looking for the best all around truck ... thanks
jamie..
RCRACER2471
01-01-2004, 08:55 PM
I wouldnt say the shocks are junk but could use a little work. If you have the extra money I would get these: http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=afjvtuaqkfgjrqrpxxhcgtalqvxaij pi&part_id=1886
There resevoirs that actually work and would help from the shocks coming off if not stop it...
RDucky02
01-01-2004, 11:13 PM
Just seeing if anyone has done this mod... I put in the second fuel tank as RCCA mentioned htere was room to do. I have to remove the piano wire roll bar and it fit fine. im running T connectors for the fuel and the preasure. i oculd also do a fuel pump or attach the fuel intake to the preasure line to complete one continous circle but i opted for the T-connectors. loving the run time! but you see you 800 mL fuel bottle empty real fast when it comes in time to refuel. take care and its so awesome. ill have to post some pics of my new body too, ordered the clear one and threw some paint, looks trick. later
dave
RCSavage
01-01-2004, 11:24 PM
Anyone have a link to the dual tank mod? I would love to do that!!
tripplefatty
01-02-2004, 10:41 AM
i would not put piggy backs on this truck or any truck...i have used them on many trucks ..& there the diff is very little to me..& they are a pain to get the all the air out of the shocks...i would wait for the neww shocks coming out by proline...i like the gt but wish i new some one that had one so i could see if its up to what i need for a good bash truck ...i dont think i have any problem with the tranny & the drive line..(other then putting somr lock tight on the pins)...but will the diffs hold up ...ya..with the stock mototr they will hold for some time ..but when you up the power will they hold...i play very hard with my trucks.....
thanks
jamie...
MikeWz
01-03-2004, 03:39 AM
This truck is amazing for bashing. The ONLY thing I've ever seen anybody break is the front bumper. The engine is okay. It's reliable but not exactly a powerhouse. It does keep up with the Savage 25SS though. And if you port it, it does help a bit. I was kinda dissapointed with the fake piggy backs, but you can always get real ones if you need. The shocks themselves aren't exactly #1 but they're decent.
CHUCKMANDO
01-03-2004, 10:02 PM
I have had the truck for a while now. Lost my share of pins. AE sent me a replacement for the internal tranie gears my wasp chewed up. Truck is a monster now. I added the Vertigo brake which is a real nice hop-up even with the stock servo, can do endos no problem. Other than that, the truck is proving to be real nice. I will gear up tomorrow between the rain, and see what this truck can do. I ordered aluminum shocks form team bluestar. I guess I am takeing a gamble on them, since I do not know of anyone using them so far. I did do some serious jumping today though and everything held up nicely.
VWVR6
01-04-2004, 02:05 AM
I was looking over last years issue of rcca where they had the first look at the mgt. There were a lot of changes it looks like. One of the changes where it orginally had a dual brake system. So I don't know if they made it better by going to one thick disk instead of two skinny ones??
RCRACER2471
01-04-2004, 11:10 AM
They changed it to one strong brake disk instead of dual disk. Thought it would the give the brake less fade and more stopping power...
RCRACER2471
01-07-2004, 06:35 PM
This forum is starting to become pretty dead. Anything new on any of you guyz trucks or anything new happen? Mines all apart right now since it was covered in dirt. The only thing I dont like when driving in the dirt is that since the truck has a tub chassis it holds all the dirt inside and your pretty much carrying a few extra pounds on your truck while driving....
fuzzy2133
01-08-2004, 10:53 PM
the only think I can think to do is remove the rear plastic plug looking thing so that some of the dirt can get out through the back.
RCRACER2471
01-09-2004, 06:52 PM
Exactly what plug are you talking about?
fuzzy2133
01-09-2004, 08:25 PM
it is 25102 "Chassis Guards & End Covers". take the rear one out so small objucts can go out the back.
RCRACER2471
01-09-2004, 09:32 PM
Thanx...Ill try that...
MikeWz
01-10-2004, 04:09 PM
RCRACER- is the track at your LHS still open? I'm thinking about driving up there with my MGT one weekend if you're gonna be working.
rampbrian
01-10-2004, 04:57 PM
I am verry tired of burning my hand on the exaust header, has any one tried wraping it up in some kind of heat resistant stuff?
I just got the 4th nasty burn on my hand today.
you would think i would know better by now.
and im having problems finding the little o ring thing for the exaust header, I want to mount up my ofna force .25 with the stock mgt header, but I can not find the correct o ring to use the pipe,?
RCRACER2471
01-10-2004, 05:24 PM
Originally posted by MikeWz
RCRACER- is the track at your LHS still open? I'm thinking about driving up there with my MGT one weekend if you're gonna be working.
Its actually not open anymore. I wish it was especially with my MGT. When I first started working at Hobby Etc. the track closed down. A friend of mine in Tyngsboro, MA opened a shop last year and hes looking to make a track but we havent found any good location. Theres other tracks in Pembroke, NH that I normally go to.....
rampbrian- do you mean the exaust header or the exaust stinger?
MikeWz
01-10-2004, 10:06 PM
Are you burning your hand when trying to start it? That's the only way I could think of even having a chance of hitting the header. And if that's the case, just watch where you're putting your hand.
RCRACER2471
01-11-2004, 11:22 AM
In that case use the drill start where you not near the engine and the chance of burning yourself. As long as you pay attention to what you're doing you should be buring yourself to start out with....
rampbrian
01-11-2004, 08:23 PM
its when im shutting it down, I set the piston to bottom dead center imedietly after running, and when I un clip the rear part of the boddy, im fumbling around to grab the pull start, and hold the drill start tip with my other hand, to make shure that the engine is set all the way at bottom dead centr, = thats usualy when I brush my hand up against the exaust header, so far ive gotten 4 nasty burns from it,
maby im just being a dumb head.
or I just need to rip the boddy off all the way before trying to set the piston to bottom dead center, that way I can see what im doing.
RCRACER2471
01-11-2004, 09:58 PM
You really dont need to put the piston to bottom dead center. It doesnt do much. That would solve your problem easily. Why do you want to do that anyways....
rampbrian
01-12-2004, 06:42 AM
setting your piston at bottom dead center allows the engine to cool down properly, the piston and sleeve expand when they are hot, when they are cold there is much more "pinch" at the top of the sleeve, when the piston is up there = if you let your engine cool down when the piston is at top dead center, it will cause your piston sleeve stretch out, and you will loose some of the "pinch" and that will lead to premature engine wear and lost compression and blow by, will start after a while.
so far I have 7.5 gallons of fuel in my "sport" ofna .25 engine and its still going in my buggy. thats pretty good concidering most guys kill that engine after 3 gallons or less.
im hoping to get at least 10 gallons on the thunder tiger engine in the mgt, so taking every precaution helps
RCSavage
01-12-2004, 07:29 AM
You only need to put the engine at bottom dead center when your still breaking it in. Once it's broken in you shouldn't have to do that anymore.
firemedic10c
01-12-2004, 05:48 PM
My pin fell out of my CV shaft on the first tank of fuel. I bought a cotter pin at Home Depot, cut it to the appropriate length and it has worked fine for about $.50. The shafts look exactly like some Mugen shafts and pins I saw at my LHS.
Where can I get this brake uprade? My bumpers are gone due to no brakes. I have an arse load of stuff coming from New Era, everything aluminum that they sell, I bought so this truck will be bulletproof. I also ordered the Jumbo Kong 8.5" tires.
I bought the 200oz airtronics servo for the steering, and will use the stock steering servo for brakes which should help.
I want to buy a .26 engine to push all that aluminum around and turn those tires, but I don't know which one to buy. The mach .26 is the cheapest and the picco the most expensive. Which is the best and will fit in the truck?
cbr74
01-12-2004, 06:04 PM
May want to think about a clutch and slipper upgrade as well. Turning those big ole tires will give the drivetrain a workout.
As for brakes... beyond the fuel tubing mod, there are three options that I know of:
Hardcore Racing:
http://racinghardcore.com/asc-mgt.htm
Vertigo:
http://www.vertigoperformance.com/mgt%20page.htm
Crazy Nut Racing:
http://www.crazynutracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=51&products_id=255
I opted for the CNR set-up... $15 was just too good to pass up.
I haven't had a lot of time on them so I can't say how long term viability is.. but they do flat STOP. So much so that I can make it do a complete 360 endo.
I removed the fuel tubing on the brake rod and went back to the stock spring to tame them down a bit.
RCRACER2471
01-12-2004, 06:17 PM
cbr74- Do you still have stock diff oil in your diffs? Im looking for a better diff weight other than stock that will give me more performance. For some reason I cant get onto www.monstergtforum.com anymore. Theres a lot more info over there but I can post or reply to anything anymore so im relying on you for info...:)
cbr74
01-12-2004, 06:20 PM
I haven't touched the diffs, haven't even had them apart. Sorry, can't help ya on that one.
RCSavage
01-12-2004, 06:35 PM
I know what to use for a clutch upgrade but what do I use for a slipper upgrade?
cbr74
01-12-2004, 06:43 PM
Two options:
Double up on the 25042 slipper pegs. Stock is 6, but will accept 12.
Or get the Strobe slipper. It's for T-Maxx but fits MGT.
http://www.strobe-rc.com/slipper_ordering.htm
RCSavage
01-12-2004, 07:15 PM
Thanks for the answer! I'll add some more pegs to my slipper tomorrow.
fuzzy2133
01-14-2004, 09:57 PM
RCRACER2471 - the stock diff greases is the same as silicone 10,000 weight.
RCRACER2471
01-15-2004, 06:39 PM
I dont really want the stock diff weight. I want something that will give me more performance. Whats the difference in thickness are you go up in weight? I forget.....
fuzzy2133
01-15-2004, 09:47 PM
once I get a chance I will be going to at least 30,000 so there will be less of one wheel spinning free.
what I hear is on high traction surfaces you want less diff action to get power to both wheels so the power gets to the ground with less of a chance for one wheel breaking free. however in loose terrian with less diff action it is easier to slide in the cornes with a burst of power since both tires will break free close to the same time.
RCRACER2471
01-16-2004, 11:23 AM
So what do you think would be a good diff weight between on and off road driving. I drive my truck everywhere.....
Tamiya4ever
01-16-2004, 12:19 PM
I was wondering would it be possible to change the transmitter and reviever to a 3 channel FM, but still keep the stock servos in place? What radio reciever is compatible with the factory servo plugs?
RCRACER2471
01-16-2004, 01:56 PM
If you want to use a 3 Channel radio I and keep the stock servos then I believe you will have to use the Futaba line of radios. Others will quite likly need an adapter for the servo to fit into a non futaba reciever....
RCSavage
01-16-2004, 02:08 PM
I am using a JR synthesized receiver and an M8 radio with the stock servos. It works great.
Tamiya4ever
01-16-2004, 02:25 PM
Would a Futaba 3PDF radio with futaba 3 channel reciever be ok?
RCRACER2471
01-16-2004, 11:28 PM
Originally posted by Tamiya4ever
Would a Futaba 3PDF radio with futaba 3 channel reciever be ok?
that would work just fine.....
Tamiya4ever
01-17-2004, 06:08 AM
Ok cool. Thanks. :D
fuzzy2133
01-17-2004, 08:06 PM
Originally posted by RCRACER2471
So what do you think would be a good diff weight between on and off road driving. I drive my truck everywhere.....
for both on and off road start with 25K or 30K front and rear, I am just guessing though.
If any one knows more speak up please.
MikeWz
01-17-2004, 08:21 PM
What is the stock diff weight?
Boostedbruiser
01-18-2004, 06:40 AM
Heres a saver i made out of a gs storm saver for my MGT.
I'll test it tomorrow and see if its any good.
I think the spring might be too weak for the saver , but we'll see
Boostedbruiser
01-18-2004, 06:52 AM
another
Boostedbruiser
01-18-2004, 06:58 AM
one more
Micha_MX4
01-18-2004, 11:33 AM
HI,
if you put two springs in a row, you reduce the overall springrate!
If you wan't a tougher saver action just use one of them.
Bye
TheRo0sTer
01-18-2004, 01:21 PM
I was looking to buy one of these and was wondering how the RTR servos are?
Micha_MX4
01-18-2004, 04:03 PM
there are only complaints about the
steering but you can fix that easy
connecting the battery to a servo port.
this truck is great!
mnmrc
01-18-2004, 04:17 PM
My buddy is having trouble with the steering too. Its very sluggish. Any other reports of this.
cbr74
01-18-2004, 04:43 PM
Steering (http://monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=96)
Micha_MX4
01-18-2004, 04:52 PM
@cbr74
do you know if the mugen clutch
(out of the XR works) will fit the
mgt clutchbells?
or should I stick to the stock clutch using
a Picco .26 in my MGT
Do you think the R&B 9863 will work with
the Picco? Didn't check the length yet...
Micha
RCRACER2471
01-18-2004, 05:07 PM
Originally posted by MikeWz
What is the stock diff weight?
10,000
cbr74
01-18-2004, 05:18 PM
I do not know if the Mugen clutch will fit. I wouldn't use stock clutch either though. I plan to use some Nova aluminum shoes on the Picco .26 in the MGT.
I dont know about the pipe.
Boostedbruiser
01-18-2004, 07:16 PM
i'm only using the original servo saver just for the pic. i have an aluminum arm that i will put on it.
i'll see if it works out today.
RCRACER2471
01-18-2004, 08:52 PM
Originally posted by cbr74
I do not know if the Mugen clutch will fit. I wouldn't use stock clutch either though. I plan to use some Nova aluminum shoes on the Picco .26 in the MGT.
I dont know about the pipe.
Arent the Savage clutch shoes the same as the MGT? If they are then you could put the mugen clutch on. Many people have put it on their Savages with great results.....
MikeWz
01-19-2004, 08:20 AM
Go with the fantom works .21 pipe with the picco. Steel pipes are better all around, and especially on a huge MT where weight isn't really a big deal. They get even more hot than al pipes and heat adds to better fuel efficiency. They also give you more torque/top-end without destroying your powerband.
cbr74
01-19-2004, 01:25 PM
Tried a steel pipe for a while on the Savage. The Ritter pipe to be exact. Worked pretty good, til it rusted. I'll stay with aluminum.
hyperstang
01-19-2004, 03:28 PM
Well guys...
I got the BFT bug. I am in the market in buying a 1/8th scale and I am going to pick up a Monster GT. I sold my mod TXT 1 and my Kanai II to pick up a gas truck. Looking at all the video and stuff to say about the BFT....I am going to get this bad boy, probably with the Trinity Sirio .27 Standard Monster Horsepower 27XL from Towers.
I'll let you guys knw when this bad boy comes in...
Race on....
MikeWz
01-19-2004, 04:24 PM
If you look around you'll be able to find that sirio .27 on other sites that have it for less than Tower. I'm not at my home comp right now or I'd give you some links
RCRACER2471
01-19-2004, 06:50 PM
Originally posted by MikeWz
Go with the fantom works .21 pipe with the picco. Steel pipes are better all around, and especially on a huge MT where weight isn't really a big deal. They get even more hot than al pipes and heat adds to better fuel efficiency. They also give you more torque/top-end without destroying your powerband.
Have you tried the Fantom pipe yet? Im looking for a new pipe as well. Maybe an RB or something...
firemedic10c
01-19-2004, 07:07 PM
Shock question. My MGT sags- if you push it down it stays down. Is this low oil in the shocks, or do I just need stiffer springs? I have added aluminum front and rear bumpers, aluminum shock towers, a pico .26 all together no more than 2 lbs. Is this enough to bottom out the springs? I have a full set of extra stiff copper springs on order.
BTW the aluminum bumpers bend really easily, too.
I was testing my .26, the servo arm was not screwed on, it popped of and I went running after my truck as it slammed into a woodpile, bending the front bumper, breaking the plastic wheel hub on one of the front wheels, dismounting a tire from the rim, and breaking one of the titanium turnbuckle end pieces.
On a positive note, the crazy nut carbon fiber brake kit will make this thing endo even with Jumbo Kong tires in the grass!!
jimbonj
01-19-2004, 08:07 PM
Are you planning on using the stock clutch springs with the Nova alum clutch shoes?
Originally posted by cbr74
I do not know if the Mugen clutch will fit. I wouldn't use stock clutch either though. I plan to use some Nova aluminum shoes on the Picco .26 in the MGT.
I dont know about the pipe.
cbr74
01-19-2004, 10:50 PM
Since the Nova shoes are same weight as the stockers, yes I'll be using the stock springs.
MikeWz
01-20-2004, 10:31 AM
Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Have you tried the Fantom pipe yet? Im looking for a new pipe as well. Maybe an RB or something...
I run a Fantom pipe on my xxx-nt and wouldn't run anything else. Huge boost in both top and bottom without killing the powerband. You'll also find longer run times and a sweet sound. They aren't cheap but they are well worth the money and will pay for itself with the fuel you save. Go for it. Especially while you can get the LHS discount before you quit :D
RCRACER2471
01-20-2004, 03:21 PM
But the only problem is that in order to get my discount it has to be from Great Planes aka. Tower Hobbies or Horizon Hobby but neither carry fantom. I may like into the RB pipes if thats something that I can get cheaper.
BTW, how much do those fantom pipes go for?
cbr74
01-21-2004, 11:40 AM
Stormer carries them. The .21 pipes range from $65-$75.
Just make sure you take care to clean and oil the inside of it when storing. Nitromethanol is hydroscopic... it attracts moisture. Moisture+steel=rust
RCRACER2471
01-21-2004, 12:39 PM
Thats quite high of a price for a pipe are the RB pipes any cheaper?
cbr74
01-21-2004, 12:55 PM
No :mad:
RCRACER2471
01-21-2004, 01:04 PM
Well that sucks. Any other suggestions for a better performance pipe?
Micha_MX4
01-21-2004, 02:18 PM
just got my 40 series Mambo rims and Dirt Hawgs for my MGT. Do I have to drill a hole in the rims like in the stock rims? Thanks!
cbr74
01-21-2004, 02:21 PM
You should always vent either the wheels or the tires so they aren't bouncy. Air needs to be able to get in and out for the foams to compress/decompress.
Micha_MX4
01-21-2004, 02:27 PM
I know but wasn't sure 'coz the tires are
so "flat"
I'll drill them.
PS: got my CNR brakes too today. Any tips for mounting them?
cbr74
01-21-2004, 02:35 PM
The CNR's are a bolt on fit, but I found I didn't like how close the second disk was to the edge of the hex. I like to run my brakes a little on the loose side so they don't drag. To remedy, I simply filed down the brass brake cam button a little bit. Didn't take much.. less than 1mm I think.
Micha_MX4
01-21-2004, 02:47 PM
okay, I'll try
I will go back to the spring, I'm curious if the ABS (ALB) of my M8 will work as good as with the fuel line...
Nitroaddict
01-23-2004, 01:04 PM
I just ordered my MGT from Tower Hobbies, is there any upgrades that are necessary out of the box? I was just curious if you guys think there is anything I should do right away, or if I will be good to go until something breaks..I know people have had problem with the fake resevoir caps popping off, where are you guys buying the associated replacement shock caps?
Thanks,
Nitroaddict :)
cbr74
01-23-2004, 01:14 PM
I haven't bought any replacement shock caps. I just clean 'em up and put them back together.
need4speed4
01-26-2004, 12:03 AM
Hey i just sold my r40 for an mgt, I kept the steering servo(Hitec HS-5925, .08sec/ 127.7oz)and was wondering if it will be good to use, as opposed to the airtronics 94358Z(200oz, .10sec) and Hitec HS-5945(180oz./ .13sec.)... So basically.. is 127 oz-in. of torque enough?? Or should I sell it and get the 94356Z or HS-5495.. I mean of course the 94358Z and 5945 will perform better.. but is it going to be worth going through the hassle of selling my current servo , or not... If it is really worth it, then I will..
Thanks: tom
SavageBurn
01-26-2004, 11:54 AM
So what's this stuff about the gears stripping? Have you guys had that problem? www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=22529&perpage=16&pagenumber=1
Micha_MX4
01-26-2004, 12:42 PM
@need4speed
I use this servo in my MGT, it works fine!
Keep it
Micha
BCat125
01-26-2004, 05:00 PM
I just went to manchester to run my mgt and i have to say that this truck is awesome. Acceleration is very good and top end seems to be faster than the savage 21 in when its in first gear and kept up with the savage 25. I only got to take it off of a bike jump but it got some impressive air.
The only problem was that i couldnt get it out of first gear in the runbning space i had. The rpms were about to peak and i had to hit the breaks.
When i ran ovals to warm up the engine with my team once in a while people got in my way and i could easily run them over and keep going (including clods and savages). Also it didnt stall out at all because of the fuel tank design.
I cant wait until feb 6 for the show in hartford conneticut to try the truck on the dirt and see how durable it really is.
RCRACER2471
01-26-2004, 09:01 PM
Bcat125- you were at the Verizon Wireless Arena werent you? Me and a few of my other friends want to join some of the upcoming monster jam events. One of my friends contacted you guys so we find out the dates. We'll probly be going to the one in Worcester on Feb 20. I have a MGT as well and I want to test it out on some of those huge jumps over there. My friend has the .26 Tmaxx so we'll probably see you there next time......
MikeWz
01-26-2004, 10:41 PM
Wish I brought my MGT up to school with me. Worcester is quite close to me. What exactly is going on? Maybe I'll go down and pick up my truck :D
RCRACER2471
01-27-2004, 03:01 PM
There are a few shows in Worcester, MA Providence, RI and Bridgeport, CT that East Coast RC joins for the USHRA Monster Jams across New England where you drive your trucks on the track during pre show and half time. Bcat can give you more details. Hes the one in the club. Right? Im just going to join in a few a shows and have all the more fun.... :)
RDucky02
01-27-2004, 03:23 PM
hey,
wondering if any of you guys know about the chicago monster jam show and if theres a chance i could rip on some killer jumps... any info or where to go on the net would be appreciated. i know in febuary there coming here to chicago...
dave
RCRACER2471
01-28-2004, 04:12 PM
The ones Im talking about are only on the east coast. You have to check the website for when dates are scheduled in your area....
MikeWz
01-30-2004, 05:56 AM
what would be the site to check for info?
Nitroaddict
01-30-2004, 09:22 AM
anyone know what weight oil is in the stock shocks?
Thanks,
Nitroaddict
eurylokhos
01-30-2004, 09:30 AM
I emailed AE when i first got mine, and they said it was 35wt.
cbr74
01-30-2004, 10:23 AM
From AE's site:
"The standard oil in the kit is 40wt oil."
RCRACER2471
01-30-2004, 07:29 PM
Originally posted by MikeWz
what would be the site to check for info?
you can look at their site but this years shows arent updated yet on schedule. I have the list of dates but I just have to find it. This is thier site:
www.eastcoastrc.com
Here's mine and my friends. Its still under construction
www.nashuanitroclub.com
RCRACER2471
01-30-2004, 10:00 PM
Here is all the info I found for the upcoming events in the next couple of months....
East Coast R/C 2004 Monster Truck Shows
Saturday January 24th (2 shows 2pm & 8pm) & Sunday January 25th (2pm)
Verizon Wireless Arena Manchester, NH
USHRA Thunder Nationals
http://www.ushra.com/showDetail?id=Show.2003-10-08.0746
Saturday February 7th (2 shows 2pm & 8pm) & Sunday February 8th (2pm)
Hartford Civic Center, Hartford, CT
USHRA Monster Jam
http://www.ushra.com/showDetail?id=Show.2003-12-07.1743
Friday February 20th (8pm) & Saturday February 21st (2 shows 2pm & 8pm)
& Sunday 22nd (2pm)
Worcester Centrum Center Worcester, MA
USHRA Monster Jam
http://www.ushra.com/showDetail?id=Show.2003-10-08.0330
Friday February 27th (8pm) & Saturday February 28th (2 shows 2pm & 8pm)
Dunkin Donuts Center, Providence, RI
USHRA Monster Jam
http://www.provcc.com/
Friday March 26th (8pm) Saturday March 27th (8pm)
Sunday March 28th (2pm)
Bridgeport Arena, Bridgeport, CT
USHRA Monster Jam
http://www.arenaatharboryard.com/events.shtml
Friday April 9th (8pm) & Saturday April 10th (2pm & 8pm)
Sunday April11th (2pm)
Whittimore Arena, Durham, NH @ UNH
USHRA Thunder Nationals
http://www.whittemorecenter.com/
RCfun12
02-03-2004, 03:50 PM
Is this truck any good. im saving up my money and im either geting a savage 25 or the monster gt. plz help
Toycar
02-04-2004, 03:41 AM
Originally posted by RCfun12
Is this truck any good. im saving up my money and im either geting a savage 25 or the monster gt. plz help
The savage has been around for awhile and the MGT is new. The MGT was released in Oct/03. The Savage25 has been upgraded from the initial offering the Savage21. It's a fair bit better but far from perfect. The MGT has a strong driveline, is easy to work on, and drives better but has teething issues like:
lower control arms breaking at shock mount
very brittle plastic that doesn't like to take too many hits
early american flag versons with the 25013 tranny gear failing
weak hub carriers and bumpers
Pins falling out of cvd's, setpins loosening and falling out
The savage is my first choice if this is going to be your first truck. It takes a beating and you can flip it over and keep going. I beat on both and I can tell you the savage is stronger. I think the Savage25 is a better deal for what you get. If you race and are eperienced in R/C trucks get the MGT. I have both a modded Savage21 and a MGT. They run the same engine a Wasp.26.
All trucks take alot of work it's personal preferance on which you want. The savage25 has been around since 02 so there is a load of support out there for it and it's even more popular now because it's flying off the shelves. Alot stores are out of stock on the S25. The MGT is a good looker and bigger than the savage that's what got me to buy one. I'm keeping both. I take both out when I go play.
RCfun12
02-04-2004, 03:41 PM
its not my first truck ive been into rc for aout7 years so i know what im doing when thingsbreak and need fixed.i still like the gt more. thanx
MikeWz
02-05-2004, 12:13 PM
The truck is amazing. It's just as fast as the Savage 25's. The drive train is amazingly smooth and it's bullet proof. The only part I've managed to break is the front bumper, and that was driving it REALLY hard in a construstion site.
Unfortunatly, yes the CVD pins do tend to fall out, but that can easily be fixed with some thread lock.
I personally haven't had any of the problems with the other things that Toy had mentioned, but then again I didn't get one of the american flag ones.
Good luck in whatever you choose
eurylokhos
02-05-2004, 12:17 PM
The only thing I break on a regular basis is the front body mounts, but it's easy to make your own, so it's not that bad.
RCfun12
02-05-2004, 03:29 PM
Thanks alot guys for your help. Im swaving up my money to get it. I cant wait.
picit
02-05-2004, 09:47 PM
Im thinking about buying one tommorow, what types of hop-ups are available right now!~ point me to the goodies if you can!
thanks
CK9887
02-05-2004, 10:56 PM
the brakes on my MGT suck,
I have replaced the spring with thick fuel tubing but it didnt help much. The servo doesnt rotate enough when i apply the brakes to really squeeze them hard.
Please help, I have already switched the batt plug to the 4th channel on my reciever to get a little more volts.
cbr74
02-06-2004, 01:41 AM
Need to give the servo more leverage (or upgrade it). Try moving the linkage inboard on the servo arm and moving the brake arm out as far as it will go.
RCRACER2471
02-06-2004, 12:45 PM
Originally posted by CK9887
the brakes on my MGT suck,
I have replaced the spring with thick fuel tubing but it didnt help much. The servo doesnt rotate enough when i apply the brakes to really squeeze them hard.
Please help, I have already switched the batt plug to the 4th channel on my reciever to get a little more volts.
Honestly I havent had any problems with the stock brakes. I think there pretty decent considering the weight of the truck. One thing I realized when I first got my truck last year I noticed that the brake pads came a little loose from the factory. So I tightened those up. Make sure the brake is also tight as possibile without the truck dragging so the servo can stop the truck right away.
You can also get some nice dual disk brakes from Crazy Nut Racing for only $15 delivered to your door. Im getting mine soon.
www.crazynutracing.com
RCRACER2471
02-06-2004, 12:50 PM
Originally posted by picit
Im thinking about buying one tommorow, what types of hop-ups are available right now!~ point me to the goodies if you can!
thanks
Plenty of upgrades. Basically anything you want you can get for it now. All of the Team Associated Factory Team stuff etc.
Aluminum Steeing Rack $60
Titanium turnbuckles $40
Blue machined chassis $90
Forward only conversion $15
Alumininum shock bodies
Aluminum shock caps (4) $20
The list goes on and on.....
Toycar
02-07-2004, 02:47 AM
To prevent the brakes from dragging I found that the spring inside those BIC disposable mechanical pencils fit snugly around the M3 bolts that attach the brake shoes. 1 spring will work. Cut it down to size so there's minimal back pressure.
MikeWz
02-07-2004, 03:14 PM
Oh man!!! AE has that milled blue chassis already!?!? I thought that wasn't supposed to be out till May. Where can I get me one of those bad boys?
RCRACER2471
02-07-2004, 09:17 PM
right here man...:p
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVA3&P=7
I hope your willing to empty your pockets...:D
RCRACER2471
02-07-2004, 09:49 PM
Holy crap Ultimate Hobbies is really making stuff cheap. Monster GT's now sell for $440...:eek:
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//c509.html
MikeWz
02-08-2004, 12:38 AM
$90...that isn't too bad...I guess. I mean, that chassis is pretty sexual. I just have a new guitar as priority right now. Def need a new A/E before a new AE :D
Jeff Cain
02-08-2004, 08:17 AM
Off Topic lol
What kind of guitar?
MikeWz
02-08-2004, 06:53 PM
Actually it's an Alvarez. Played one at a friends house and really liked the way they sounded, felt, and especially the way the looked. Everybody's got the spruce look going on and I wanted something different.
Here's a picture if you'd like to check it out.
http://www.alvarezgtr.com/bigguitarspgs/fd60csbbig.html
Monsterbrad
02-10-2004, 08:38 PM
Any of you guys square off with a savage 25 yet????
cbr74
02-10-2004, 08:41 PM
Does a Savage .26 count? Yeah, they squared off... head on collision.. Savage lost.
There was no glory in it though... they were both my trucks. LOL
CK9887
02-10-2004, 09:43 PM
My firend has a Stock Savage 25 and I have a Stock MGT. They are almost identical in speed. We tied them together and had a pulling contest and mine pulled his on the concrete but he pulled me in the grass.
The trucks are very close in peformance.
I just ordered an XTM 24.7 though so this should speed up the MGT right? Im also getting the stiff shock springs (gold) and the Dual disk brake kit from CNR. Will this brake kit be much better than stock?
cbr74
02-10-2004, 09:47 PM
If you want more speed using that XTM .247, you better gear up to take advantage of its brutal low end power because it doesn't have a lot in the revs department.
The CNR brakes grab very hard, much harder than stock.
CK9887
02-10-2004, 09:50 PM
ok, so with stock gearing it will do lots of wheelies and be able to pull like a mother? LOL. Cuase thats exactly what i wanted to hear. :p
Bottom end is the most important to me becuase most of our bashing consist of climbing.
So even with the stock servo the Dual brakes from CNR will be much better than stock? Are they easy enough to hook up?
cbr74
02-10-2004, 09:59 PM
Stock gearing will give you a boat load of torque, I'm sure wheelies will simply be a matter of sufficient traction.
With the stock servo and fuel tubing on the brake rod, I was able to do (unintentionally) 360 endos with the CNR brakes. I can't say about install.. my transmission was out of the truck at the time I put the CNR's on.
CK9887
02-10-2004, 10:07 PM
Ok, I guess I will go ahead and order the brakes.
Im also going to order the stiff shock springs. My stock shocks are way to soft.
Does anyone know what I will need to change out with the new XTM .247? Like clutch, exhaust, air filter?
I may get a K&N filter, ive read that all the talk about how they let dirt in is not true.
cbr74
02-10-2004, 10:12 PM
All the stock components should bolt up to the .247. (as far as I know)
Forget what you've read, K&N filters are not, repeat: NOT for off-road. They aren't even designed for R/C cars in the first place, they're 1:1 crankcase breathers that just so happen to fit R/C engines.
Yes I've tried it, I have the ruined piston and sleeve to show for it. They do not filter fine enough for dirty/dusty conditions.
You can get away with them for on-road if you run a pre-filter, but even then I wouldn't recommend it.
CK9887
02-10-2004, 10:20 PM
ok,
So what filter would you reccomend? Or will the Stock work fine?
Also, is the stock pipe going to work well with the 24.7?
Thanks for the help.
Oh, BTW I just placed my order for the Dual disk brakes.
CK9887
02-10-2004, 11:45 PM
What Reciever pack would you guys reccomend for the MGT?
I was looking at these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3174537287&category=19168
I like the idea of it having its own charger so that i dont have to worry about setting up my charger for reciever packs.
But that charger may take a while to charge compared to my duratrax intellipeak.
cbr74
02-10-2004, 11:50 PM
Filter.. stock is great for filtration but not the best for airflow. I run the stocker, but I drilled the inlet to 10.2mm.
Pipe... it's an NTC3 pipe with a little larger inlet and stinger. A true .21 pipe would be better than the stocker. I like the HB Savage tuned pipe for bang for the buck performance.
RX pack... that one's decent, this one is better:
http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10191.18
CK9887
02-10-2004, 11:54 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3165179645&category=44017
How bout that?
Incredible price.
RCRACER2471
02-11-2004, 01:15 PM
The link that cbr74 mentioned gives you a better deal. It comes with a charger and you also charge them using the 7.2 volt battery connector. Just my opinion....
picit
02-11-2004, 10:20 PM
Motor saver filters work very well I have alot of guys around here that have great luck with them. Ive got a fresh MGT just starting to tweak it, lunsford TI linkage kit, hinge pins, bow tie 40's on velocity wheels, gotta lose some weight on this thing, what are you guys doing to shed at least a pound, Im having trouble getting the FOC kit from associated, saying late feb. anyone tried the other kit out there?
RCRACER2471
02-12-2004, 08:02 PM
Im waiting to install my foward only kit on my truck. From what ive been told it takes off approximatly half a pound and increased performance in speed and handling. Then you can go to the 40 series wheel and 40 series bow tie tires. That reduces less than half a pound. Those are the two main items that help reduce the weight the most. Other small things such as factory team chassis and titanium turbuckles will reduce weight but very little. Just a few things to look at..........
CK9887
02-12-2004, 09:38 PM
I just got the CNR dual disk brake kit and dont know which way to put them on.
One side of the disk has grooves and the other doesnt? Does it matter which side the grooves go on?
Please help me out.
cbr74
02-12-2004, 09:48 PM
hehe.. I have one facing in and one facing out... I seriously doubt it matters which way you put them in.
CK9887
02-12-2004, 11:16 PM
The holes in the disk dont line up very well with the carbon fiber pads. The holes in the disk arent wide enough and the screws wont go through both of them becuase they dont line up?
cbr74
02-12-2004, 11:23 PM
OK.. I read your post 5 times and I still don't get what you're saying.. you lost me. lol
It sounds like you're trying to put screws through the brake disks?
But that makes no sense.
Are you saying the holes in the CF pads don't line up with each other? Or the holes in the CF pads don't line up with the holes in the transmission?
I'm tryin to help.... but you need to clarify what exactly the problem is.
CK9887
02-12-2004, 11:36 PM
WOW, i feel stupid. Yea i got it.
thanks
CK9887
02-13-2004, 02:52 AM
I finished installing the dual brake kit and it makes a huge difference. I cant even push the car with the brakes applied.
I cant imagine what it would be like with a stronger servo or if I tweaked the brakes like most racers do.
In the mail I have coming:
XTM 24.7
Extra Firm Shock Springs.
Venom 6v reciever pack.
This thing will rock with those installed.
CK9887
02-13-2004, 02:55 AM
Im looking for some new tires/wheels to give my truck a new look.
What do you think about these?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEPB3&P=7
I know tower says they are 6.5inches but Hot bodies website says they are 7in.
How will these compare in size? Are they a good tire?
cbr74
02-13-2004, 03:10 AM
They are a little taller, quite a bit wider, and a whole lot heavier than the stock tires. They look great, but the increase in rotating mass and unsprung weight is detrimental to performance.
CK9887
02-13-2004, 11:59 AM
How about the Big Joes on 40 Series wheels?
cbr74
02-13-2004, 01:07 PM
Wider, shorter, and about the same weight as stock.
I have 40 series Dirt Hawgs on my Savage and they are excellent. The Dirt Hawgs don't have the overhanging sidewall that the Big Joes do.
RCRACER2471
02-13-2004, 02:33 PM
Originally posted by CK9887
How about the Big Joes on 40 Series wheels?
The 40 series wheels and tires will offer you the best overall performance. Ive seen those Hot Bodies wheels and there just way too heavy for its size. There basically the same thing as the Terra Crusher wheels. I have 40 series wheels and big joes on my truck which helps give the truck a wider stance....
cbr74
02-13-2004, 03:25 PM
I wouldn't say the same as TC... but they are similar.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/20042138131256083124128.jpg
CK9887
02-13-2004, 04:19 PM
hmm,
I want a big tire though.
Anyone have a pic of 40 series wheels on an MGT?
cbr74
02-13-2004, 04:21 PM
http://www.msnusers.com/flipracing/monstertrucks.msnw?Page=3
Credit to Toycar from MGTforum for the pics.
CK9887
02-13-2004, 04:42 PM
ok, thanks
RCRACER2471
02-14-2004, 07:14 PM
Does the Wasp .26 bolt right on with the stock header? I just tried it earlier today and apparently it doesnt and I thought it would work. Any ideas????
Monsterbrad
02-16-2004, 11:06 PM
Anybody else know anything about the MGT VS the Savage 25
stories or anything like that
I have heard that the MGT won't wheelie in the grass like the 25 will!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
??????????????????????
cbr74
02-16-2004, 11:19 PM
Why do so many people measure a vehicle's worth on its ability to wheelie? If wheelies are the sole criteria for a worthy vehicle.. then the Nitro Stampede is king. LOL
Wheelies aren't an indicator of performance, actually just the opposite. A well balanced, good handling vehicle will not wheelie... because it's a lot easier to turn... when all four wheels are on the ground.
Toycar
02-17-2004, 04:13 AM
Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Does the Wasp .26 bolt right on with the stock header? I just tried it earlier today and apparently it doesnt and I thought it would work. Any ideas????
Mine did no problem. I used the thin exhaust header gasket that came along with the wasp.26.
http://www.msnusers.com/flipracing/monstertrucks.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=75
cbr74
02-17-2004, 04:49 AM
MGT tires on a Savage.. LOL
Toycar... what shocktowers are those? I like 'em.
jimbonj
02-17-2004, 07:27 AM
Looks like they're from GH (Golden Horizon).
Originally posted by cbr74
MGT tires on a Savage.. LOL
Toycar... what shocktowers are those? I like 'em.
gtimmons
02-17-2004, 02:55 PM
Toy Car
I see your Wasp has a wand starter. Is that a roto start? How do you like it and does it work well, was it easy to attach or did you have to modify it. Also, how do you like the truck with this engine. I see you have quite a few modified parts. What does your truck weigh.
Mine is still almost stock.
Thanks
gtimmons
Jeff Cain
02-17-2004, 05:54 PM
Originally posted by cbr74
If wheelies are the sole criteria for a worthy vehicle.. then the Nitro Stampede is king. LOL
.
Ah yeah, that's some wheelie tastic fun! Especially when you use 30% fuel!
cbr74
02-17-2004, 06:05 PM
Especially when you put a TRX2.5 in it. hehehe
Toycar
02-17-2004, 07:08 PM
Yes, those are GH shock towers and control arms. The roto-start works well but it isn't really needed because the Wasp starts up just like that. I really need to pay attention to a flooded engine. The Roto-start will crack the housing around the one-way bearing like that. It's nice, no callouses when the engine is out of tune or if I'm trying to start it with a dead glow-plug. The roto-
start end plate is a direct fit. I don't even run a spacer behind the starting hex. However, remeber to use the screws that come with the original pull-start that mount it to the engine. The screws that come with the roto-start, to mount to the back plate, are a different thread pitch.
Toycar
02-18-2004, 05:26 AM
Originally posted by gtimmons
Toy Car
I see your Wasp has a wand starter. Is that a roto start? How do you like it and does it work well, was it easy to attach or did you have to modify it. Also, how do you like the truck with this engine. I see you have quite a few modified parts. What does your truck weigh.
Mine is still almost stock.
Thanks
gtimmons
The engine works well on the MGT. I can't give you a comparison vs. the stocker. I never ran the TT .21 enine. It requires much fewer upgrades than my savage21 did going to the Wasp.26. Just aluminum clutch shoes, 6 more slipper pegs, and an 18T CB as essentials for the added power. I don't much like the Al parts, it's just nice to look at. They weigh about twice as much as the oem plastic. I had no alternative at the moment due to the lack of RPM replacements. I kept breaking the stock plastic pieces. All the Aliminum adds about 1 lb.
xj sean
02-18-2004, 09:49 AM
Originally posted by cbr74
I wouldn't say the same as TC... but they are similar.
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/20042138131256083124128.jpg
What kind of tires are those on the left? If i ever got an RC rockcrawler, I'd love to have a set of TSL look-a-like tires
--edit--nevermind, I found them. Hotbodies PSYCO's. wish they made them for a 2.2" wheel. my old school 10T would rock with those.
Monsterbrad
02-20-2004, 01:48 PM
Come on guys looking for some other peoples views here
Any body have any stories with the Monster gt and A Savage????????????
picit
02-20-2004, 11:36 PM
Im setting my mgt up for some racing and wonder what kind of diff oils you guys are running? What shock & spring set-ups? How are you guys fairing up on the track?
Toycar
02-21-2004, 05:53 AM
Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Come on guys looking for some other peoples views here
Any body have any stories with the Monster gt and A Savage????????????
Well I have both. I always take both with me to the track. When I first got the MGT in Nov/03 it was my favorite. It was new, I liked the size, and design. I got the savage june/03 and it's the standard. Lately the savage has gotten more track time than the MGT. One reason is that it's been broken alot and I've been gentle with it. The savage is indestructible.
If your looking for side by side driving at the same time stories I'd love to do them but can't seem to grow two extra arms.
Wear items:
Savage - major area is the plastic rod ends on the rear turnbuckles, but not too bad.
MGT - the rear diff cases at the lower suspension arm hinge pin carrier. Lots of slope now both sides, left and right. This will require rear gearbox replacement. Aluminum front and rear skid plates looking pretty beat-up from bottoming. Bumpers are missing chunks of plastic.
Monsterbrad
02-22-2004, 03:01 PM
Hey thanks you answered my questions. I have the savage 25 and was looking into getting the mgt but I think I will hold off cause I am not impressed with the reports so far....
RCRACER2471
02-23-2004, 05:29 PM
Theres many things thats good about the Monster GT. It has the drill/ pull start. I prefer the drill start. The engine is very easy to tune. I have yet had a problem with it. The engine pumps out 2.1hp which is decent for a .21 size engine and is enought power to be bashing around. The transition between the foward reverse is one of greatest things Ive seen. Its so smooth as compared to the Tmaxx where it jerks and the time and rarely works. You have a nice high torque servo that doesnt normally come with most rtr's. The chassis is quite layed out and is much easier to work on as compared to a Savage where you basically have to take apart the truck to get to a certain part. The truck is quite durable and has the best handling Ive ever seen with a monster truck. They did there work on that part. Overall great truck and would reccomend it to anyone with urge to bash a monster truck in their backyard....
BCat125
02-23-2004, 06:42 PM
I took my monster gt up to worchester mass for the monster truck show this weekend and it was running great. I put the 18/46 gear ratio in it and as soon as it is out of first gear it takes off like a rocket. I was taking it off a ramp with a huge angle and all i broke on it was the front bumper in half. Im having a problem with mine shifting into reverse so i want to get the forward only conversion and also save some weight.
RCRACER2471
02-23-2004, 07:40 PM
Sucks that we didnt go to the show. I wanted to go and had my mgt all ready but I didnt know there was so many rules before actually attending the show. Glad it ran great. Im about to break in my Wasp .26 with the 18/46 gearing as well.....
RCRACER2471
03-01-2004, 03:40 PM
Man this forum is completly dead. Seems like no one even owns this truck or atleast cares about it. I just put my Wasp .26 on it and an HPI Savage to help boost some power since that ntc3 was restricting some of the airflow and wasnt offering the fullest performance. Runs great. Just have to re adjust my 2 speed with all of that torque.
Anyone have pics, setups, custom parts etc. This forum hasnt had a relpy in the past week....
fuzzy2133
03-01-2004, 09:33 PM
the only thing I have changed on my MGT is New Era shock towers and I have not had a chance to try them out. this weekend I will make time. :) I also have a Hexscrews screw kit that I will put on once I get to a total tear down and cleaning.
I think it is the slow time of the year; rain, snow, hail, too cold... must stay in warm house. :p
RCRACER2471
03-02-2004, 07:41 PM
Not bad over here. 60 F in NH. We've had very little snow this year. Has been a crappy winter for skiing but that hasnt stopped me from using my truck.
Heres the the upgrades I have on my truck as of right now:
Integy Aluminum Shocks
Wasp .26
HPI Polished pipe
FOC kit
JR Radio w/ Hitec 645 servo
Crazy Nut Dual Disk brakes
Rechageable battery pack
40 Series wheels and tires
I'll try to post some pictures of it later on.....
fuzzy2133
03-02-2004, 09:33 PM
it has been 55-65 F in CA changes with cloud cover I have also been working on a 67 camaro so my weekends have been one day that and one day RC.
what do you think about the Integy Aluminum Shocks?
What I have done so far...
Ofna/Picco .26
FT Steering
FT Ti Turnbuckles
New Era Roll Bar
New Era Working Piggybacks
New Era Front & Rear Shock Towers
KO 2144 Servos For Steering And Throttle
JR XR3i Radio
6volt NiMH RX Pack
40 series tires
RCRACER2471
03-03-2004, 08:36 PM
The Integy shocks are pretty nice but the springs a little bit soft for my liking. There actually softer than the stock MGT ones. I just bought stiffer springs. No big deal. They work great though and no more shock caps popping off.....:)
fuzzy2133
03-06-2004, 12:00 AM
on another forum a few of the people have been able to put a hot bodies tuned pipe for a savage on the MGT that is dual chamber and my lovely block really do not care for the sound of a big block at top speed so I am going to try it out and see how it goes.
RCRACER2471
03-06-2004, 08:34 PM
Once I put the HPI Savage pipe on my truck I noticed a difference in performance and sound. Believe it or not the pipe actually made it quieter by muffling some of the noise. I think theres some kind of restrictor in it that may make a difference as well. Ive heard people using the Hot Bodies pipe with better results compared to stock. Its basically your cheapest upgrade for speed and performance.
fuzzy2133
03-07-2004, 04:27 PM
I was looking at some race results and Richard Saxton took first place in the dirt nitro challenge 2004 with the stock ttr engine. all that he changed on the engine was removing the pull start portion of the drill start setup, a O'Donnell head for a OS .21, and used the side exhaust header. :cool:
I hope that news gets the TTR dislikers quiet down abit.
RCRACER2471
03-07-2004, 06:12 PM
Hopefully it does. That stock engine is pretty powerful for its size. I found it easy to tune and start. Now I have my Wasp .26 and kills every car on the block.
BTW, didnt he use the factory team chassis as well when he was racing?
fuzzy2133
03-08-2004, 12:49 AM
yep FT chassis, tmaxx sized bowtie tires and a 17 tooth CB, I love the fact that he left the fake resiviors on with the FT shock bodies. :p
TheGeneralG
03-08-2004, 01:03 AM
Hopefully this will bring a little attention to this thread.... Here is a pic of all the parts I removed when installing the FOC kit. It is a much needed upgrade! The truck probably lost about 1 lb in weight! Just waiting on the Integy shocks to arrive and test out the FOC kit before I install the P3 .26... if I still need to, the loss in weight and installed HB pipe should wake up the TT engine for sure!
http://members.cox.net/grantrs/R_C/mgtreversejunk.jpg
Also a pic of what my MGT looked like on 2/20/04.... going to look completly different on the next pic I take.
http://members.cox.net/grantrs/mgt1.jpg
rbongo
03-08-2004, 06:11 AM
Hi guys, can you help out with a bit of advice as I am new to nitro and trucks:
1. using regular AA batteries I see they are pretty much dead after about two tanks and the steering performance goes to pot some time before that. Can I use a stick pack from one of my electric touring cars (six cells so 7.2v) or alternatively make up a five cell stick so 6v to power the servos? The idea would be to take out the batt box and put the stick down the left side of the tray chassis.
2. does the run-in need to be done in one session or can you e.g. do tanks 1&2 one day then 3&4 the next. If I've done 1&2 would it actually be better to start over again i.e. do 1-4 again in one session?
3. Any views on shocks - team blue star or integy? Also, does anyong have a feel for whether proline will make the power shock for the MGT?
Thanks in advance
cbr74
03-08-2004, 09:52 AM
Check your forward/reverse shift servo to see if it's stalled or not. It can suck down a lot of unnecessary power.
I wouldn't run a sub-c rx pack just because of the weight, but you could I suppose.
Stay away from Team Blue Star.... heard numerous reports that they are junk. Integy's seem to be OK. I ordered the FT's for my MGT.
rbongo
03-08-2004, 10:57 AM
sorry, but what do you mean by stalled? I ask because I had bit of fun and games with the linkages for that servo when I took it out of the box because in either position it was whining because it wasn't hitting the end of the its movement range. Its now adjusted and works "cleanly".
the weight is no biggy currently as I am using for bashing (and exercising the dog!!). do you think the servo's and transmitter can handle 7.2 v rather than 6v. Would there be a performance increase??
Thanks again
cbr74
03-08-2004, 06:54 PM
OK, then you've already solved th shift servo issue. That whining, or "buzz" as I call it was the problem.
Ironically enough... if you're using the stock receiver, you can use a 7.2volt rx pack due to the BEC circuit. The BEC circuit drops the input voltage by 1.2 volts. That's why so many of us by-pass the BEC by plugging the rx pack into channel 4 on the receiver. In your case.. just use the regular batt. slot on the rx and the servos will end up with 6 volts. I wouldn't recommend running a straight 7.2 volts to the servos... they aren't designed for it.
You will definitely notice a performance increase over the alki's.
RCRACER2471
03-08-2004, 08:46 PM
cbr74 dont forget to mention your bearing upgrade. Works great on my truck.....:)
cbr74
03-08-2004, 11:56 PM
Ah yes.. the BB's... well... you really need the whole story... so for rbongo and anyone else who's interested... read here:
http://monstergtforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=96
RCRACER2471
03-12-2004, 08:28 PM
.
MikeWz
03-22-2004, 08:46 PM
WAKE UP EVERYBODY!!!
RCRACER2471
03-22-2004, 08:52 PM
Originally posted by MikeWz
WAKE UP EVERYBODY!!!
That means you too.....:p
fuzzy2133
03-22-2004, 10:01 PM
does any one know if HCR is going to make a chassis?
MikeWz
03-22-2004, 11:43 PM
It's not really worth it. Ti is heavier than the aluminum used to make the chassis now. And they Al is strong enough. If you can break the chassis on your MGT without beating with a sledge hammer or giving it the normal work out, I'd give you money...well no I won't but I'd be REALLY surprised.
cbr74
03-23-2004, 12:18 PM
Hardcore has made a chassis for the MGT... and I'm not impressed... it's a multiple piece design... looks like an assembly nightmare... I'll stick with the stocker.
RCRACER2471
03-23-2004, 07:19 PM
I believe the HCR chassis is in the latest Xtreme RC magazine. Didnt look all that great for the price that you have to pay. I rather save myself the money and keep the stocker. Works just fine for me......
MikeWz
03-23-2004, 07:51 PM
I wanna get the FT chassis. It looks pretty trick.
And yeah, HCR products are uber expensive. Not really a fan. They're stuff is excellent quality I just don't have the cash :(
RCRACER2471
03-23-2004, 08:50 PM
Amen to that....:)
I can find the same quality for almost half the price they sell their products for. I have to call them up about my hinge pins. I called and asked them before I ordered them if they came with e-clips because they didnt show them in the picture. They say they do include them and just isnt shown in the picture. A few weeks later I reeieve my hinge pins and they have no e-clips. I was like how are they supposed to stay on with nothing holding them on the ends. I put them on and they stay on pretty well but will come off most of the way with big jumps. Im going to have to do a little negotiating about this spiel.....
fuzzy2133
03-23-2004, 10:19 PM
Yea I just was reading my copy and noticed it. the FT chassis is as strong as the stock one right? any word on parts from RPM yet?
fuzzy2133
03-23-2004, 11:48 PM
found RPM has a-arms out.
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/AssocMGT.htm#arms
MikeWz
03-24-2004, 01:27 AM
Fuzzy-The FT one would be just as strong, as it is made out of the same material. It's also drilled out to be lightened, but it's cut in a way that may actually make the chassis more rigid (eg Triangles)
Micha_MX4
03-24-2004, 05:49 PM
the FT chassis looks nice but there is no way that you increase the stiffness or strength of a part by milling material off.
You will always (no exception) increase internal stress by taking material away.
But I doubt that anyone can bend the FT chassis...
Micha
RCRACER2471
03-24-2004, 06:41 PM
Its all for looks. No performance change involded. Id personally get one if I had the money to waste since it looks so nice but im happy enough with the stock chassis....
Has anyone bought the Hardcor Racing hinge pin set?
picit
03-25-2004, 12:44 AM
Im running the lunsford hinge pin kit and love it, the titanium balls and heavier duty ends make them very tight and super strong
RCRACER2471
03-28-2004, 12:26 PM
Since this thread need to be kept alive we need some people to post their setups and/or post pics.
This is my setup:
Wasp .26
Integy Aluminum Shocks
Foward Only
Rechargable Receiver Pack
Hitec 645 Servo
JR XR2i Radio
Hardcor Racing Hingepins
Mugen Clutch
Hot Racing Flyweel and Spring
HPI polished tuned pipe
side exhaust mount header
no bumpers
40 Series Wheels and tires
GPM Air filter
Flag body and stock Body painted
MikeWz
03-29-2004, 01:57 PM
Look into the fantom pipes. Freaking amazing ;)
BCat125
03-29-2004, 03:21 PM
Heres my MGT set-up
Stock TTR .21
Stock pipe
forward only
Futaba 3PDF FM remote
Reedy 5 cell rechargable reciever pack
Integy alloy shocks
Flag,red, and bronco bodies
New era rollbar
Stock tires(had big joes but were too heavy and i broke the hex)
46 tooth spur gear
18 tooth clutch bell
OFNA flywheel
Ofna aluminum clutch shoes
Iwas going to put a second fuel tank on it but you cant with the new era roll bar so i might want to get a new pipe and header.
RCRACER2471
03-29-2004, 08:15 PM
Look into the fantom pipes. Freaking amazing ;)
I always hear something about Fantom coming from you. Its like you addicted to them. You probably dream about them in your sleep..... :)
MikeWz
03-30-2004, 06:52 PM
Hey man, give credit where credit is due. They make nice engines for off-road and their pipes are incredible. They're made of steel so they get even more hot than Al pipes and retain it longer...and when it comes to pipes the more heat the better (to a point). Gives better fuel efficiency and a bit more power. Plus they sound awesome
What do you think of those Integy Shocks?
BCat125
03-30-2004, 07:56 PM
What do you think of those Integy Shocks?
I have the integy shocks on my MGT and i have to say they are great all around shocks for the truck. If you are planning on getting these for the mgt you need to make the cap hole bigger for mounting on the tower. I think that integy made some specifically for the mgt though which would make it so you dont need to do this. I got my shocks with the integy 40 spring package and have tested around with a lot of the springs. If you want to get the suspension to match the stock truck suspension i suggest you use 50 weight fluid and stock springs. It is almost identical to stock.
The shocks have heald up very good for me and it can land perfectly from a high drop with the preload set as high as it can be. They make the truck look absolutly awesome and function great.
What i have found is that at a price of only 110 for all eight shocks assembled these are some of the best shocks out there. I have even used progressive suspension shocks on my clodbusters and other vehicles and i have to say that these are much better imo for looks, ease of working on and durability. The stock springs that come with these are kind of loose and make the truck bottom out easily but you can but the spring kit for a very good price(dont remember exactly what that was). I would definatly reccomend these for any monster.
cbr74
03-31-2004, 04:44 PM
Goodies so far:
Nova clutch shoes
Nova engine mount
Crazy Nut Racing dual brakes
Kimbrough servo saver
adjustable drag link
ball bearings in bellcranks
custom fitted R/C Raven servo guard
Lunsford hingepins and linkage kit
CVEC pipe set-up rear exhaust
RPM knuckles
1200 mah NiMh rx pack
JR XS3 radio
JR Z590 on throttle
Airtronics 94358Z on steering
Factory Team shock bodies and caps
4 Raven Dual Rates and 4 stock springs w/ AE 50 wt. oil
On order:
RPM a-arms
GH shocktowers
RCRACER2471
04-01-2004, 07:48 PM
cbr, tell me how those rpm arms work out..I might pick up a few sets if the stock updated arms dont happen to hold up....
cbr74
04-01-2004, 08:43 PM
The RPM arms and GH towers will be here tomorrow so I'll have the weekend to give them a good thrashing. :D
Kenny123
04-02-2004, 12:53 AM
I bought a brand new Monster GT yesterday and today when I tried to start it didn’t want to start, and I tuned it just like the manual said to tune it. I first put fuel in the tank and primed it, then I started the engine and it ran for about 5 seconds then it turned off. So I tried to prime it again because it needed to be primed, and it didn’t want to prime. So I checked the engine to see if it was flooded and it wasn’t, then I checked the primer to see if it worked and it did. The only why I could start the engine is by putting fuel in the carburetor where the filter goes , then I start it and it start until the fuel that I put threw the car runs out. Is it the engine that doesn’t work or the fuel tank? I need help because I can’t prime the tank, and when the engine starts for a little bit the fuel doesn’t flow to the engine. What do you think is wrong? PLEASE HELP. TANK YOU!!
RCRACER2471
04-02-2004, 07:43 AM
It is possible that your getting an air leak somewhere on the engine or the tank or fuel line that is not giving you the proper fuel flow. Either try replacing the fuel line even though its new and check the tank for any air leaks. Its always a good idea to inspect trucks when there new and already built to see if everything looks and works correctly...
MikeWz
04-02-2004, 02:34 PM
Kenny-Is this your first nitro? Just wondering
As far as tuning the truck, the needles are factory set at where they need to be for break in so they should have to be moved yet. What comes to mind is that maybe your Low Speed Needle is a bit too lean. This would cause fuel to back out of the fuel line which in turn would cause you to need to keep priming your engine. Just a thought. If that's not the case then you should pick up some silicone sealant and seal around where the carb connects to the block, and then take off the pull start and a put some around the back plate (you'll see the line that goes around the the border where the four screws are). There's also a possibility your fuel tank and fuel line is leaking. It does happen.
fuzzy2133
04-02-2004, 09:30 PM
dont forget to check the High speed needle for proper adjustment. the next thing that come to my mind is that there could be something caught in the fuel inlet on the engine stopping the fuel from the tank. this woud be one of the last things to do and it is to disassemble the high speed needle assembly.
RCRACER2471
04-04-2004, 08:17 PM
Well I broke and lost my first pin on my cva's today. Let me tell you that 2.7hp all going to one diff is a lot of stress for the drivetrain. I heard that breaking these pins and loosing them seem to be one of the biggest problems going on with this truck. Does mip make cvd's yet or is there a way i could buy a bulk a pins because I sense since one fell out now that a lot more will come out more frequently. Any ideas?
MikeWz
04-04-2004, 10:35 PM
I don't recommend CVDs (at least the MIP shiney ones). I ran them on my xxx-nt and they got chewed up REAL fast and that was only with a .12 and I wasn't bashing with it. Now imagine a .26 and quite a beating. I would say they won't hold up too well. The best way to do it I found is to use RED thread lock and put a dab of CA gel on top. This will stop the screw from coming out. If you ever need to get it out it's pretty easy to push through dried gel CA with a hex wrench, then just put a lighter to the screw for 5-10 seconds and you threadlock is now loose and you're all set. Haven't had a problem since :cool:
VWVR6
04-05-2004, 08:12 AM
Hey all when I go over any kind of jump my truck always wants to nose dive or land on its lid. Is there any way I could use the spring spacers to help??? Would Stiffing the front, back or both help any??
cbr74
04-05-2004, 09:46 AM
Sprng spacers are for ride height. Check your drag brake, that's the most common cause of nose diving.
what do you guys think hyper 8 port compare with the stock MGT engine?
Kenny123
04-05-2004, 10:44 AM
I have decided to buy an XTM 24.7 Pro engine for my Monster GT, but gearing will I need to make it go it's fastest? Also is it more gears on the spur gear and clutch bell the faster, or the less gears? THANK YOU!
cbr74
04-05-2004, 10:47 AM
The large displacement engines don't turn as many revs as their smaller brethren but they make up for it with monster torque. To get the most speed out of the .247.. you'll need to gear 20/46. (stock is 15/52) The 20 tooth bell is only available from GPM Racing at the moment. 18 tooth bells are available from AE.
MikeWz
04-05-2004, 04:34 PM
The large displacement engines don't turn as many revs as their smaller brethren but they make up for it with monster torque. To get the most speed out of the .247.. you'll need to gear 20/46. (stock is 15/52) The 20 tooth bell is only available from GPM Racing at the moment. 18 tooth bells are available from AE.
Actually, the Wasp .26 turns 37,000 RPM which isn't too shy of the smaller engines.
Kenny- Might I recommend this ?
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ORN86400
it's not too much more and it'll give you quite a bit more power
RCRACER2471
04-06-2004, 07:50 AM
I don't recommend CVDs (at least the MIP shiney ones). I ran them on my xxx-nt and they got chewed up REAL fast and that was only with a .12 and I wasn't bashing with it. Now imagine a .26 and quite a beating. I would say they won't hold up too well. The best way to do it I found is to use RED thread lock and put a dab of CA gel on top. This will stop the screw from coming out. If you ever need to get it out it's pretty easy to push through dried gel CA with a hex wrench, then just put a lighter to the screw for 5-10 seconds and you threadlock is now loose and you're all set. Haven't had a problem since :cool:
I had the mip cvd's on my losi xxx-nt as well and ended up having the same problem as you. So later on I went back to the stock driveshafts. The only reason why I think those got tore up because it was on a 2wd vechicle instead of a 4wd which can make a difference. If I were to replace the pins with red thread lock would I torque them down all the way? I heard if you overtighten them that it can cause problems in the future and allows the pins to break easier....
cbr74
04-06-2004, 09:57 AM
Actually, the Wasp .26 turns 37,000 RPM It CAN turn 37k... but it's way past its usabale power band at that point. The only time you'll see them spin that high is on a test stand with minimal load.
MikeWz
04-06-2004, 10:32 AM
It CAN turn 37k... but it's way past its usabale power band at that point. The only time you'll see them spin that high is on a test stand with minimal load.
The only problem with that is you'll find the same thing with ALL nitro engines. Sirio claims 39,000RPM out of theirs. That's really not too much more than the 37K of the Wasp....but it's never gonna get there
RCRACER-If you put red threadlock on just tighten them untill they get fairly hard to move, not ALL the way down like you normall would. Red thredlock pretty much holds anything in place and with an extra drop of Gel CA you'll be all set. Besides....CVDs (at least MIPs) had a little set screw in them that I found came out once in a while with the Blue Threadlock
wardy
04-06-2004, 05:00 PM
Hello - I have read through a lot of pages on here about the GT before I bought one and can't remeber reading about the problem I am having during the assembly.
I have the factory team kit and the problem is with the Spur gear not clearing the right A-arm.
I mounted the spur with the smooth side facing out and the arm carrier won't even line up with the holes in the chassis as the carrier hits the spur.
I reversed the spur so that the smooth side faces in and the arm carrier now fits but the clearance between it and the spur is very tight.
If anybody has any ideas on what might be wrong I would appreciate any info.
Cheers
pete
cbr74
04-06-2004, 05:04 PM
Umm... wrong forum, but I am an RC10GT owner, so I'll answer your question.
The clearance is very close. It's just the nature of the beast. So long as the spur is true, it won't hit the arm holder.
wardy
04-06-2004, 05:33 PM
Umm... wrong forum, but I am an RC10GT owner, so I'll answer your question.
The clearance is very close. It's just the nature of the beast. So long as the spur is true, it won't hit the arm holder.
Thanks for the answer i justy realised my mistake posting under the wrong forum I will move the post over to the GT thread.
Cheers
BCat125
04-06-2004, 07:28 PM
That really confused me for a while. I didnt think there was a factory team kit and i couldnt see how the spur could be anywhere near the arm. Im glad that was cleared up.
RCRACER2471
04-06-2004, 08:32 PM
After looking through the Monster GT forum I noticed the RC Solutions rollcage and I was thinking about getting one.
http://www.rc-solutions.com/products/product_details.php?id=34&CID=TEAM%20ASSOCIATED
Cbr74, do you have any input on this or anoyone that owns one?
MikeWz
04-06-2004, 08:56 PM
RCRACER- I haven't personally run one myself but I've hear only good things about them. I've been thinking about getting one myself. That little bar on the truck really doesn't do much...and it dented my body :mad:
I've got the Integy Shocks ordered (the new "heavey duty" ones), HCR hinge pins(yes they did have e-clips), FT turnbuckles, FT chassis and a Sirio .27 on the truck. All I need now are some metal tranny gears and a roll cage and I'll be all set
cbr74
04-06-2004, 09:02 PM
Cbr74, do you have any input on this or anoyone that owns one?
Dunno... waiting on my RC Raven titanium cage. The RC Solutions cages seem pretty sturdy, but they're aluminum and I don't care for the idea of having to hatchet the body to fit the cage.
RCRACER2471
04-07-2004, 08:31 AM
(the new "heavey duty" ones), HCR hinge pins(yes they did have e-clips),
How is that right? I even called them about this issue and they "specifically" told me that I had to buy there aluminum arms in order for the hinge pins to work correctly. They supposedly use a set screw to hold the hinge pins in. Do you have any proof that they really do come with hinge pins? Im just a little mad at them right now......
MikeWz
04-07-2004, 09:57 AM
The only proof I have are the e-clips. I mean, at this point I can't rightly take them off and take a picture or anything because at this point who can say they're theirs. Lunsford has e-clips too. And besides, didn't you e-mail them and they told you they came with e-clips. I'd have a little chat with them
RCRACER2471
04-07-2004, 11:22 AM
The only proof I have are the e-clips. I mean, at this point I can't rightly take them off and take a picture or anything because at this point who can say they're theirs. Lunsford has e-clips too. And besides, didn't you e-mail them and they told you they came with e-clips. I'd have a little chat with them
They specifically told me that they DO come with them after I talked to them on the phone for 10 minutes or so. I suppose I could call them again and tell them that I want a replacement that will have the e-clips included....
MikeWz
04-07-2004, 12:31 PM
I'd go for it. I mean that's a little rediculous. They can't tell you that they DO come with them and then not back that up. I really think you should give them a call and see what they say
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