Duratrax Evader BX Buggy

[Wizardman_1]

would using a degreaser take it out or use another paint thinner

[EvaderRacer76]

i try that tonight

[KandL Racing]

Who all races their BX's here? I bought one used, and about to buy another one new (prebuilt) for my 2 boys. I tested out the used one yesterday at the track and was impressed. And my wife ended up racing it when her T3 servo stripped. So far I am impressed with them. I replaced the photon motor with a P2K stock, running 2400 matched packs and it was pretty stout!

Couple of questions though,

1) I've read back and saw dicussions of what wheels fit and which ones don't, but didn't find a definite answer as to which ones do/don't.

2) How do you keep the wing on these things. Turnmarshals here are used to 1/8 buggies and the first thing they grab is the wing.

3) Has anyone modded their battery box to better fit stick packs? Seems like the box is a bit too short I was thinking of dremeling a cutout to allow wiring clearance.

Thanks in Advance!

[EvaderRacer76]

i bent the end of one of the wing wires a lot with a pliers, it's hard to get it i, but it won't come out, as for the battery, u can cut or take out the foam spacer at the end, but i don't know if that will help much. For the wheels, losi rims will fit fine. i don't know about any other rims though.

i hope i helped....

[Wizardman_1]

im planning to race my evader soon at Amain raceway in vancouver, WA, did you leave the stock gearing with that p2k kandL ? i heard the gearing is perfect for it and how long does the battery last with ur pack? just a day and a half untill i can open my goodies for x mas :D. check this site out for racing tips and motor tuning

http://members.cox.net/sdracing/

http://www.motortuningsecrets.com/tunestockmotor.html

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
im planning to race my evader soon at Amain raceway in vancouver, WA, did you leave the stock gearing with that p2k kandL ? i heard the gearing is perfect for it and how long does the battery last with ur pack? just a day and a half untill i can open my goodies for x mas :D. check this site out for racing tips and motor tuning

http://members.cox.net/sdracing/

http://www.motortuningsecrets.com/tunestockmotor.html
U race at amain too? I am gonna race the winter rage. R u going to be there?

[KandL Racing]

Wizardman, Hey thanks for the links, great site for info on the evader.

The p2K stock combination seems to do pretty well. I have yet to run the combination with a pack of 2400's for a good while. My wife ran with a generic 3000 pack and it easily lasted the 5 minute main. That's the only time the BX has been run for over 2 minutes, so I haven't messed with any gear changes yet, probably leave it like that. But I am going to end up replacing the pinion and spur gears with robinson's or something. I don't like the spur that comes with the BX.

Just ordered the "prebuilt" version for my other boy, going to outfit it with a Hitec 645mg servo, and a spare radio/receiver that I have. I'll let him run the photon motor for awhile, and I'll compare it to the P2k and see which way is the best to go.

[Wizardman_1]

Im not planning to race until the spring cause i live 3 hrs away, plus my buggy isnt up to race level yet. I can't drive there im only 14

kandL i read that site before i bought mine and bought a robinson pinion right away and its much better than the stock one, the stock pinion has blunt ends. plus the robinson is chrome.
With my photon motor my epic 3000 NiMH pack gives me 30+ minutes of run time. Did your stock tire tread break instead of wear off? The stock motor brushes dont last very long, make sure you have extras. I'll be getting a P2K2 Pro pretty soon then ill be able to race.

microrcdude wat class ru in, do they let u race with blacked out windows?


check out my gear cover and bottom of the rear wing.

[KandL Racing]

We are not running the stock tires on the BX we have now. I bought it used and the guy I bought it from had already gotten some prolines for it. I did get the stock rear's with it and it looks like all the nubs just broke off.

On the new one, I'll get a pair of Prolines, but let it run with the stock tires till they get torn up.

I tend to keep up with the brushes and cut the comm often. I run a mod T3 myself (along with a 1/8 buggy and a RC10GT, that I am putting on the shelf for awhile), my wife runs a stock motored T3. The mod T3 keeps me busy with brush changes and comm cuts :)

Nice buggy you have there! You'll have a blast racing it. I took the BX for a spin this past weekend and really enjoyed it. It is very different from driving the T3.

[microrcdude]

I race 2WD stock. they let you race blacked out windows. Have you been there before?

[Wizardman_1]

I've never raced, the evader is about 2 months old and i have a Tower nitro st-15 which is up for sale. I do have a really nice track in my front yard, ill post pics later. The bad thing is where i live only 2 other people than me have rc (hobby kind). One of them i know he has a t-maxx but the tranny is messed up. the other i dont really talk to but heard he has a big collection.

microrcdude, i guess i might be going up against u, do u have pics of ur ride?

[microrcdude]

Well, i don't have an evader, i have a B3. If you don't have them yet, you should get some losi taper pin rear tires.

[microrcdude]

back

[microrcdude]

My car is all graphite, aluminum, and titanium

[microrcdude]

i upgraded the rear end, too. It protects my beauitiful axiom Green machine # pro. Best stock motor IMO.

[microrcdude]

the rear

[microrcdude]

I haven't been racing lately, and this is why:

[microrcdude]

I have equipped my car with a mod the losi drivers do to keep the body on, even if the body clip comes off.

[microrcdude]

pic of mod. I use a button head screw for this one. I screw it in here, and it holds the body down.

[microrcdude]

I keep forgetting the pic

[microrcdude]

my last pic. Put O rings on your shock shafts. It keeps the bottom of your shocks from cracking

[microrcdude]

i Keep forgetting pic!!!! That is shock oil that i need to clean up on the suspension arm and shock

[pudder]

Want pie now!

[KandL Racing]

Merry Christmas too you too Pudder :)

Wifes got cakes and cookies all made today... Pie's tomorrow :)

On topic: With the new "Pro" parts for the evaders, we'll probably be doing some upgrading of parts on our BX's. But it will probably be a "upgrade when it's broke" deal.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by KandL Racing
Merry Christmas too you too Pudder :)

Wifes got cakes and cookies all made today... Pie's tomorrow :)

On topic: With the new "Pro" parts for the evaders, we'll probably be doing some upgrading of parts on our BX's. But it will probably be a "upgrade when it's broke" deal.
iT TOOK ME 1 HOUR TO BREAK ALL OF THE COMPOSITE ON ME B3.
I GOT UPGRADES!!!!!

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by microrcdude
iT TOOK ME 1 HOUR TO BREAK ALL OF THE COMPOSITE ON ME B3.
I GOT UPGRADES!!!!! You're damn quick,dude.I couldn't break plastic parts 4 my evader in a week like that!

[Wizardman_1]

microrcdude got a little over excited on the posts there, settle down turbo.
i already have 3 extra arms for the front, the graphite parts will be on tower hobbies pretty soon so keep looking out for them, why would u break parts on purpose? if you're gonna spend the money anyway why dont you just use the graphite on the car and the composite as spare parts? Maybe if you send the parts to stress tech and write the description of the graphite part, they'll send you the graphite part for free. :D its worth a try

[microrcdude]

remember, i don't race a duratrax. Them t-maxxes kept running over my car, and it was breaking a ton of parts on my B3. Now, amain has a seperate track for them.

[Wizardman_1]

how do they set up the races at Amain?

[Wizardman_1]

Check out the goodies santa left.
Aluminum Hinge Pin Brace, Shock Shafts, Yellow Ball Ends, Blue Bellcranks, Rear Sway Bar, Carbide Diff & Thrust Balls, 3000 NiMH Pack. Took me 1hr last night and another hour this morning to put all the stuff on, that sway bar is tricky and i forgot one side of the camber links are reverse thread. The rest came on pretty easy.
Cant run it cause brushes wore and have no extras :(

[*Supreme Losi*]

Yes,yes!Finally,I got a BX!These things are awesome!I want to race mine stock for now and then put in my P2K pro motor I got.This thing is going to be darn fast!!!!!!

[Wizardman_1]

Post some pics of your new ride!

[*Supreme Losi*]

It's new,dude.What's so special about it?

[Wizardman_1]

Well you did say you got parts for it. It was kinda dumb to get the BX, you could've gotten the BX Pro which comes out the middle of next month, but after all it was a gift.

[microrcdude]

they are 5 min qualifiers, 2 or 3 heats, 1 main.
If you have $35 bucks to spend, get these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFHL8&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT28&P=7
This tire combo hooks any car up. use this setup at A-main

[Wizardman_1]

In the other forum i meant i didnt want to spend $35 just for the hard coating on the shocks. If i did have $35 i would buy a P2K2 Pro. I might not be able to make it to Winter Rage because i need a stock motor, new front rims (bent mine), threadlock, brushes, soldering iron (other broke). Thanks for the advice, i would only get the rear cause i did the wd-40 treatment on the tires but the rear stock tread broke off for some reason :confused: Does anybody race Evaders?

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
Well you did say you got parts for it. It was kinda dumb to get the BX, you could've gotten the BX Pro which comes out the middle of next month, but after all it was a gift. Well,my parents don't have 280 to spend.I'll post some pics later.

[*Supreme Losi*]

You know what's Freaaaakkky?You got the same buggy and you got the same charger and batteries as me!!!!!

[microrcdude]

I think you can make it.
If you have the money, buy these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT5&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3244&P=7

I have an extra stock motor I might sell you. Brand new brushes, springs, and trimmed comm. I think i'll sell for like $15 bucks.
are you gonna be able to send an entry fee and $35 dollars to A-main for the entry fee?? Try and concentrate on getting your front tire fixed. If you can make it, I'll lone you that extra motor for free.
Sign up for novice class. That's what i'm signed up for. We should pit by each other, then i can help you set your car up. I'm 13, so i am a new racer down there too.

[microrcdude]

I also heard that B3 rear tires fit the evader. If you need a set of rears for the winter rage, I have some extra tires. What's your first name?

[microrcdude]

you can use my soldiering iron, too. I have plenty of threadlock. Just get the front wheels and tires, and the entry fee paid. Here's what i got you can use:
Soldiering iron,
Rear tires,
thread lock,
Motor, and some more stuff.

[Wizardman_1]

Thanks for the offer but I think I wont be able to make it. I'd rather make it to a race prepared than just hurry up and get there if you know what i mean. After all they do have races every week. On my list to get it race ready is P2K2 Pro, front rims, rear tires, brushes, and maybe a new ESC. At Amain do they let you race with an esc withouth reverse lockout, cause my sprint doesnt have that. We might be going into town next weekend so i can get my soldering iron otherwise im really screwed. No offense but ill keep my name to my self, im just 14 too. Just watch, when im there you can tell cause ill have like none of that high tech stuff, just the things on my desk as you see on the past pics. My parents will pay for the entry.

[microrcdude]

i have the bugdet stuff, too. I started out with my B3 and budget stuff. my dads friend quit the hobby, and gave me a deans batt. discharger and car stand. Dude, i comepleatly understand. Let me know when you are gonna race there.

Your radio control zone friend,
microrcdude

[Wizardman_1]

Check out this other project im working on, I still need to figure out a steering system for it and the prop keeps coming off. Im gonna try to use rudder steering and i might have to just buy a propeller mounter thing.

[microrcdude]

that is cool!! Is it like a snowmobile??

[pudder]

That makes me want to make a fan mobile... I think I should do that since I have a propellor and nothing to do...

[Wizardman_1]

I havent tried it through snow yet but its a little heavy and i think it needs castors or something under it. I used an old 14.4V drill motor my friend gave me on a 9x6 prop. The ESC is a RCE220 dual ended switch from Team Delta off my battlebot which ill probly replace with a duratrax sprint when i get a new esc for my evader. The transmitter is an Airtronics VG-400, does anybody know if you can change 72mhz to 75mhz or another surface channel? Here is a link for the dual ended switch, bad thing is there is no BEC on it.
http://www.teamdelta.com/products/prod2.htm
As of now it only goes forward but im still working on the rudder steering. Im open to suggestions if you guys have any

[pudder]

I have no idea for steering, but for making the prop stay on you could take a 1/4" steel rod and drill out the center, then drill a hole and thread it for a setscrew for on the motor shaft, Then you take the prop, drill a 1/4" hole in center, then make a setscrew to hold the prop on the metal rod.

[Wizardman_1]

I got the prop to stay on with some CA and epoxy :D Im thinking of running it off a 12V cordless drill battery instead of a regular pack.

[pudder]

Your fan thing inspired me to create my own fan powered car. I modified my BoLINK Digger II... I'll get some pics tomorrow when I get the thing running.

I got my prop to stay on with drilling out piece of 1/4 inch aluminum, making a setscrew to stay on the shaft, then the prop sits on the shaft, with a setscrew to keep it on there. :)

Should be fun. I dont know how good it will be with the old Kyosho silver can motor I'm using though. Didnt feel like cleaning a good motor. :)

[Wizardman_1]

I dont think that wouldve worked for my motor since it is way bigger than standard 540 size and so is the shaft. What kind of prop are you using?
Solved the castor problem, i couldnt bolt it on so i epoxied that to the bottom of the chassis with some hot glue as minor backup. Maybe it'll move faster than just draggin along!

[pudder]

Oh, I see. I'll post the pics I have for now. I will probably throw esc reciever and batt in it later.

[pudder]

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06720.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06721.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06722.JPG

[Wizardman_1]

Just remember that there are no brakes on it so when the prop stops it keeps moving. How did you make that hole without cracking the prop?

[pudder]

I used a drill press with a good bit. I went slowly so the wood wouldnt crack, plus the prop was in a small vice too.

[Wizardman_1]

Um it looks like your prop is on backwards but thats just me. Can the motor spin the other direction because if you put it on the right way and spin the wrong direction it wont give as much thrust as if you did it the right way. What is the size of your prop? Make sure your motor can pull all the weight with the battery and stuff.

[pudder]

Ya, motor needs to spin other way than supposed to. I'll still experiment with it though. :)

[Wizardman_1]

have you gotten it to run yet?

[pudder]

Nope, I have all my stuff neatly packed away for racing on Sunday so I'm just keeping it that way. After first day of racing I'll give it a go. :)

[*Supreme Losi*]

I got a B4 body to fit my BX!!!!PM me if you want to know how.

[Wizardman_1]

What body is it, is it the new proline crowd pleazer? Post a pic of it. Man we got a LOT of snow over here the most was 10 1/2".
Wouldnt that be fun to drive in with an MT, just make it water proof and off you go!

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
What body is it, is it the new proline crowd pleazer? Post a pic of it. Man we got a LOT of snow over here the most was 10 1/2".
Wouldnt that be fun to drive in with an MT, just make it water proof and off you go!
I think we got 3 inches:(

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
What body is it, is it the new proline crowd pleazer? Post a pic of it. Here!I had to do some mods for it.It's an Interceptor body,BTW.

[Wizardman_1]

it kinda looks good, you cant really tell. Nice radio you have though. Was it hard to trim or did it go on pretty easy?

[pudder]

Update on my fan car:

I put electronics in it today and ran it. It goes pretty good, good acceleration and if I had a nice parking lot or something it would have really good speed. I'll probably take it to the track and try it out sometime. :)

[microrcdude]

how much do you think a woven graphite shock tower should be for the front?

[Wizardman_1]

If its woven its called woven carbon fiber, ive heard its shredded diamond and graphite, but i dont know if they do that for RC, they do for motocross. If its for ur B3 i dont know, for the evader (when it comes out) the graphite shock tower should be under $15 since the stock one is barely 5 bucks.

[pudder]

Microdude, since you have a B3, why don't you ask stuff about it in the B3 forum? I think the woven graphite shock tower is probably like 8$ or so.

[microrcdude]

I mean for the evader. Plus, no ones at the b3 thread

[pudder]

Me and a couple other people are usually able to answer questions there.

[microrcdude]

I look there all the time, but nobody is ever posting anything new.

[pudder]

Because no one has anything to post or ask!

[Wizardman_1]

Well looks like the graphite parts are farther away, tower is getting the evader pro series in late march instead of late january, oh and has anybody tried using paddles on snow with their evader or other buggy.

[pudder]

I have used DuraTrax paddles on my original RC10 buggy in snow. The tires work great.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02260.JPG

[Wizardman_1]

Just came back from running my evader, barely ran it for 5 mins. It slides around too much and i didnt want to cook my esc or motor, it got pretty boring. Arent the Duratrax paddles for a 1.9 rim or something? ill probly use those or the proline ones, nice rc10.

[pudder]

The duratrax tires will fit over the rim with a little struggle, but they work good. Pro-Line doesnt even make paddles for 1/10 buggies.

[Wizardman_1]

Yea your right, the prolines are for trucks, and duratrax paddles are now discontinued so i guess ill just put some screws in the tires after they wear out.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
so i guess ill just put some screws in the tires after they wear out. I was gonna do that, but all the snow melted.:(

[Wizardman_1]

Theres still a lot of snow over here. Today i cleared a strip of my track so i can at least jump the bx instead of letting it sit and i broke both of the brush springs when the rear end slapped on a big rock i didnt see when i landed. :D Im gonna get some trinity green springs as soon as my friend pays me back on tuesday. Wats your set up microrcdude, motor and stuff for amain.

[microrcdude]

I use a green machine 3 by axiom.

[Wizardman_1]

Axiom? do they rebuild it for you or something? Ill be using an orion core stock that ill rebuild cause the track looks pretty tight in some spots and the extra torque will help.

[microrcdude]

no, you can buy motors from them. They dyno it, and put some special parts in it. What tires are you gonna be using?

[Wizardman_1]

Probly some proline evil twin, the R3 compound, i like the horizontal tread in the middle, if the track wasnt as hard packed id use the stock evader tires with the wd-40 treatment on them cause of the longer tread. The stock fronts or maybe some wide 4rib R3's if i have some money left over, i heard they look pretty funky on the evader cause of the skinny front rim.

[microrcdude]

that seems like a good tire setup.

[Wizardman_1]

Gettin a Novak SS! :D Finally, in one month ill have a BL evader. Now i have to find a track around here that runs brushless. Also have to stock up on idlers, or drillout a B3 one.

[*Supreme Losi*]

I got my P2K put in..This thing has great accel.with it!

[Wizardman_1]

I found a way to "rebuild" the stock photon speed motor. Unsolder the capacitors (yellow things) first and then take the motor whack the output shaft (where u put the pinion) on a table or something hard a few times, dont try to kill it or anything. After the endbell is off, clean it, cut the comm or do watever you want with it. I couldn't get the bushing on the motor can off for some reason, i was trying to replace it with some bearings. After you're done bend the tabs back in and push the endbell back on. This was probly figured out already but oh well.

[Wizardman_1]

I just saw an Evader BX Pro, a prebuilt one. Comes with all the stuff as a regular bx pro but its only a rolling chassis, you need radio, servo, esc, motor, and paint for the clear body. $174.99 its just a bit more expensive than the standard rtr but the price will probly go down by the time its in stock

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYW8&P=0

[elecracr]

Well, this is my first post here but i am not a newbie. I will soon post pics of my bx.
The following hop ups are installed:
Associated F1 super reverse
speed gems pro titanite(15 double)
speed gems pro nintronite arm(12 double)
custom made aluminum front skid
custom made aluminum rear shock tower(not installed)
trinity monster horsepower stock
road rages all around
dirt hawgs all around
stock fronts, rear bowties
yellow duratrax rims

Prolly more just cant remember..
I run GP3300's and Ballistic batteries Sanyo 2400's in my car.

I also saw the bx pro and it looks nice, im more excited about the aspect of if i break my car now, i can put some graphite on it instead.

[microrcdude]

sounds good.

Wizardman,
I got last at the winter rage. I was in third, and then my steering tierod got stuck under the top plate. After losing 5 laps, i charged hard to the finish. I ended up 3 laps behind

[elecracr]

Well, today i was running aroung and my differential got loose so i went in to tighten it, and then ran a few secs and it did the same thing. Well, long story short i think i tightened it too much and broke part of the dff. internally, i was wondering if you all know what part i need and why this happened or how i can fix this.
thanks

[Wizardman_1]

You need to get a diff rebuild kit from tower. Look under the parts for the evader st.

[elecracr]

ok, thanks
i have had my evader for a year and done many hopups and have never had any troubles inside the gearbox, i opened it up last night and ya, i broke part of it.
Thanks again.

[elecracr]

well, i ran up to my lhs today and got the rebuild kit it and it works great now.
Right now i have my 12 double geared 15/87 and it has alot of low end, enough to wheelie with my dirt hawgs on!
I was just wondering if you all thought that 15/87 is a good gearing for that motor.
thanks

[Wizardman_1]

i have no clue, the only motor i have ran in my evader is the stock one. I've never messed with gearing on an electric cause i barely had this car 2 months ago. As long as the motor doesnt get hot or it feels really slugish you should be fine.

[pudder]

Has anyone gotten the graphite evader yet?

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by pudder
Has anyone gotten the graphite evader yet? I'm not getting it but I may upgrade a lot of my parts on my freaking fast Evader.

My Mods So Far
------------------------------------------
P2K Pro motor
26 tooth pinion gear
Blue Bellcrank set
B4 body
JR Racing receiver
JR Racing Transmitter

Soon To Come
------------------------------------------
Proline Dirt Hawgs all around
Graphite shock towers
Blue aluminum locknuts all around and on shock screws
Blue Motor guard
Blue Bumper
Aluminum hubs

[guver]

Way too expensive for me.....

[Wizardman_1]

I was thinkin about getting the evader bx pro kit and transfer all my stuff to that kit but i'm not sure about it yet.

[elecracr]

Well, iv got my bx running real fast with the twelve turn motor, I would strongly suggest not getting graphite if you just bash, because it does not flex and just breaks. I would see that kit being a good kit to race with, but personnally i am not sure if it would be able to handle as well as well as a b4 buggy. I race my evader quite often, but i cant handle as easily as the b4.

Also i saw you say soon to come dirt hawgs, i have them and they work very good on all surfaces and i love them, just make sure you glue them on properly or else you will have wobly tires.

Also, does anyone know of any after market rims other than duratrax b/c the duratrax ones are crap and keep cracking.

[guver]

I was wondering same thing, maybe associated???

[pudder]

Losi XXX or XX rims will fit on the rear and B3 rims in the front.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
I was thinkin about getting the evader bx pro kit and transfer all my stuff to that kit but i'm not sure about it yet. I would get it. There's some tough comp at A-main!

[elecracr]

Well,
You can spend an extra 30 dollars or so and get a b4 kit, but it is up to you.
Being you already have the evader i would go with that so if you break a part on race day you can just put a composite part on instead and still race.

[Wizardman_1]

Well i have these choices to spend my money on and am undecided. Which would you guys get?

Hop up the evader with a lot of stuff

Fix my nitro st to get it running again

Finish converting my nitro st to an electric

Buy the Duratrax Delphi with 1 or 2 hop-ups

Buy some other inexpensive car.

[pudder]

The best thing to do would probably fix up your other vehicle, or get upgrades for your current one, but if you're like me at all you'll end up spending it on another vehicle :)

[elecracr]

i would finish the conversion, that sounds cool

[elecracr]

Hehe,
I just got some money and im eyeing those lehner brushless. I think i may just get one after a little time to convince my parents to let me spend another 350 on my car. Hehe, i can see it now, 10 cell evader on stereroids.

[microrcdude]

I'd get a B3 or B4.

[elecracr]

me 2

[Wizardman_1]

i wasnt getting the emails about the posts.
The b3 is discontinued and the b4 is too expensive for me. looking for something under 150 most likely 120ish dont know. The one i am going for is hopping up the evader some more, its also the cheapest.

[elecracr]

If you still have the stock motor in it i would suggest getting a better esc and a nice motor, D5,D6 or p94. If you cant afford that, i would go for a nice speed gems pro, i have the 15turn and a 12turn arm, and i love them both.

[Wizardman_1]

well i just got a basketball hoop for my bday that was $200 something, i would've rather wanted to get an Axis with that but oh well. Im gonna have to get a traxxas stinger or a tamiya sport tuned closed endbell until i get enough money for a motor and a lot of brushes. Which would be faster the stinger or the tamiya?

[pudder]

Tamiya Sport tuned would be better by far.

[Wizardman_1]

Is it better than the photon speed also or about the same.

[pudder]

The photon is faster but it is higher maitenance, and will wear out much quicker.

[EvaderBX]

hey all, im thinkin about gettin an evader bx, i dont like my rustler. should I. pro's and con's?:cool:

[microrcdude]

If you want an evader, get one of the new graphite evaders. They look and perform a whole lot better than a stock evader.

[microrcdude]

Wizard, you gone to A-main yet???

[Wizardman_1]

Done haven't been there, West Coast RC just got robbed $40,000 worth of stuff so they might be closing and might have to go to amain. I just have to get a motor and i might go one of these days but i dont know since i have tennis coming up at my school, i havent ran my car in like 2 weeks.

Get the new Evader BX Pro Prebuilt for $159.99 at tower rolling chassis only w/clear body, just transfer all your stuff to it.

[microrcdude]

I know about the robbed stuff. I cant believe that. Man, everyone is looking for their stuff all over the place.

[Wizardman_1]

The novice class is just stock motors right? Do they let you use 27T bearing motors cause i was thinking of getting a Team Orion Havok for $20 instead of the Core Stock. I might just race with my worn tires.
Parts list
Orion Havok
Brushes
Antenna
Slipper pad

[elecracr]

Some tracks may let you use the stock photon in the novice class...
You may want to check at your track

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
it kinda looks good, you cant really tell. Nice radio you have though. Was it hard to trim or did it go on pretty easy? Sorry I didn't reply,I've been sick for a while now.All I did was I trimmed off a 2'x2' piece off of the extra wing,cut/trimmed the body,screwed the 2'x2' piece on,and trimmed it so it looked right and was long enough.

[Wizardman_1]

I finally made up my mind and Im gonna get a Team Orion Rush 21x2 motor and some Pro-Line evil twin tires once i get $4 to pay for shipping, do you think ill have to change the gearing, its not that big of a change over the stock. Good thing about the motor is that its $16 and rebuildable, hopefully its faster than the photon.

[elecracr]

Well, i got another speed gem pro today, my old can got busted up, this time a got a 14*2 serpentine, and this thing flies, i love it, a little slower than the 12 turn, but im hoping for better maintenence, the 12 turn eats brushes so i only use it when drag racing, i like my 15 and 14 turn speeds for track conditions.

[Wizardman_1]

What kind of ESC are you using with those motors? Sounds like your evader flies with the 12T. Do you run a lathe or just replace brushes and stuff?

[elecracr]

I dont have a lathe, but i use a scotch pad to get the dirtyness off of the comm. and then use the finest grit steel wool too smooth it out, other than that i just replace the springs and brushes.
With these motors i am running the new version of the associated f1 super reverse which can handle 12-36 turns, with the 14turn geared 17/87 i beleive i can get wheelies out of my car for the first minute or so onroad with dirthawgs, with it geared 15/87 the torque is insane. I can ussually get quite good life out of the 15 turn motors using the scotc pad method, but the 12 turn eats brushes too much for my liking. This 14 turn is insane, but today i broke another rear shock tower having a full throttle flip on concrete, it was loud, i also broke my body somehow where the clips go. But i have an extra homemade aluminum shock tower and a extra plasic shock tower.
Just to let you all know i ussually gear these modified motors 2-3teeth over the amount of turns with dirthawgs depending where im running, and with normal tires i gear 3 teeth over. Sometimes 4 over with road rages.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Well, I've got some new front tires.Yeah-yeah-e!The sidewalls on the prolines are taller by about 4mm,doesn't sound like much but it really is.Also,what's the cheapest esc that can handle down to 12t?And last,would I have to change the idler gear to be able to handle the 12 or 13t motor I'm going to get?

[Wizardman_1]

Where do you get the money to get all of these parts? :p I just got $10 for free cause i let my mom use all of my money :D. The Duratrax Streak would be your best bet for low turn motors, last time i checked it was a 12T limit, not very sure. Does the car handle better with the Pro-Lines?

[elecracr]

Well, iff you set the slipper properly you shouldnt have any idler problems.
I have had no internal gear problems other than rebuilding the differential after a year and a half of use.
I would also say the streak is the cheapest.
I do destroy the occasional spur gear though.
I got my money for my birthday and christmas and have been saving for a lond while, im 16. Im close to broke now, but for christmas i got alot of parts that i frequently break. Also, it is kinda hard maintaning the funds to keep up my boat and car, but i just got a new esc for my boat that is waterproof,watercooled, and handles 10-26cells, right now im running 12-16 on it with a 775 sized motor, its running between 20-30mph!

[elecracr]

Also, i just shredded another universal axle in the back, that is my 2nd one in like 2 weeks, i looked and on the evader bx parts list i saw cv joints (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=DTXC7289+&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go) and i was wondering if they will fit the evader bx original, if not, do you all know of any other reliable shafts of comparable price, the low turn motors are ripping the dogbones out, iv lost 2 and cant find them! I was drivin at near dark so tommorow o will attempt to find them.

[elecracr]

Srry about all the posts, but tonight i looked at the exploded views of the rear driveshaft for the nitro evader bx and the ep evader bx, and the hubs, bearing and everything are the same except for the universal and cv's, so i am gunna buy them and tell you all what i think when i get them in.

[Wizardman_1]

They should fit, they are the same exact ones on the BX Pro's. The Nitro Evader ST fit the Evader ST so it should fit. I haven't had any trouble with my axles, the pins never even back out. Just got $5 for having a 3.5+GPA at my school, and a free 12pack of soda. Yay!:D

[elecracr]

The problem with my axles is with all the power the pins get ripped in half where the axle meets the dogbone.
Im gunna try out the cv's, hopefully they will be better

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by Wizardman_1
Where do you get the money to get all of these parts? :p I just got $10 for free cause i let my mom use all of my money :D. The Duratrax Streak would be your best bet for low turn motors, last time i checked it was a 12T limit, not very sure. Does the car handle better with the Pro-Lines? I haven't gone to the track yet so I don't know if the prolines handle better.

[elecracr]

What tires where you using before?

[elecracr]

Oh no, i just stripped a spur gear and an idler gear in the same day, il pick up a spur later this week, the idler is already replaced, it was because i havent lubed the tranny in a while. Now i have my slightly fixed universal running with no problems, and i have orders nitro evader cv's from my lhs, and when they arrive i will give you all a review.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Originally posted by elecracr
What tires where you using before? I was using the origional tires.I now also have new rear tires.Pro-line Rally Hawgs!!!!Yay!!!:rolleyes:

[elecracr]

Well, I went to the lhs today and picked up the parts, and i installed them, they work well and i have no complaints.
Does anyone know how to mkae the diffential not lose up so much, i rebuilt it just like 1 month ago.
Proline tires do give alot better traction than the stockers. I have tries bowties, ribs, road rages, and dirt hawgs.

[pudder]

I never seemed to be able to keep my Evader's differential from loosening up either, it sucks since I can go for a month on my T3's and it doesnt change much. I just kept tightening mine every few races or so. :rolleyes:

[elecracr]

Do you know if the differential in the t3 can work with the evader?

[guver]

Anytime I hear mine start squawking when landing, I titen it up. I think I run it kinda tight, but it never loosens up. Same with the slipper clutch. Some of my diff's arn'e exactly real smooth either. haha

[pudder]

No, the T3 differential won't work. The diff gear itself is different amount of teeth, and the outdrive size on the T3 are smaller as well. I've studied this closely when i had my Evader still, and no way it can work unless you put a LOT of work in.

[elecracr]

Do you know of anyway you can lock the diff. eventhough it will affect handling, without using the screw?

[pudder]

You can use epoxy or JB Weld. I wouldn't lock the diff though, it really takes away from performance.

[elecracr]

Im going to try epoxy, if i dont like it i will just chip it off

[Wizardman_1]

If you put the diff just a tad bit tight it won't loosen as easy. When it makes that sound after a jump that means you didnt let go off the throttle and is slipping so the gears won't strip or get damaged as easy. Thats how mine was.
I ran my evader today and it keeps making the slipping noise like if the slipper was always on.It barely went half of its full speed at full throttle. I'm gonna get new diff rings, slipper pads, and motor to see if it gets back up to normal running speed. The battery was fully charged too.

[elecracr]

I fixed mine, i took it apart and thouroghly cleaned it

[elecracr]

Well, the cv's are still running strong!
Im really pleased with them

[Wizardman_1]

They finally came out win the metal idler
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=lxfzp0&FVPROFIL=++

[elecracr]

Ya, i know they came out with a new one, but this is the first one i have blown. I will wait and if i blow another il get the aluminum.

[elecracr]

Well, its spring break here in Virginia, and im headed off to grandparents house. Bringing the evader, plan to do some pretty crazy stuff, hopefullly it can take what i will dish out, last time i was there i jumped it over a small pool that was about 13 feet long and 3 feet deep, no damages. THis time i may go down to the beach access and try to jump 13 stairs, last time i mangled the front end of my car due to not enough speed b/c of old motor, but hopefully it will make it, and if not hopefully i will have replacement parts, i have spares for about half the front end.
Wish me luck!
Should be crazy, im most nervous about their curbs, i dont have curbs in my neighborhood and last time i stripped a servo due to a run-in with one.

HAPPY EASTER EVERYONE!!!

[pudder]

Yes, Happy Easter. I hope everyone drank lots on the weekend and will eat chocolate.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Okay,I have $48.50...What should I buy?

[pudder]

A new motor? Maybe some brushes... which you will need at some point in time. Tires? Body?

[Wizardman_1]

I just got some proline bow ties, new diff rings, slipper pads, and a team orion rush 21 x 2 and when i run it the car sounds like the slipper is on the whole time. I tightened the diff and slipper more ill see if that works tomorrow but do you guys have any other suggestions?

[pudder]

Figure out what's slipping and tighten it up, that's all there is to it.

[elecracr]

Sounds like a very loose differential if you have checked the slipper, the evader differentials are very touchy, you have to find the sweet spot and keep tightening it every once in a while or else you will burn up the differential. Also, make sure your wheels are locked and the pinion is secured properly, but this sounds like when i had differential problems.

[Wizardman_1]

Yeah it was the differential. The Orion Rush doesn't have as much bottom end as the Photon but the mid and high range is a lot better. I think the timing is around 24 degrees but its kinda hard to tell since the marks blend in with the can sticker. The kool thing is that is was only $16 and it has bearings, adjustable timing, and is rebuildable.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Hey, y'all.I bought:

1.Yellow RPM ball cups
2.Yellow rims all around
3.Crystals
4.Chrome Losi springs front
5.Green Losi springs rear

[microrcdude]

sounds as if someone has money.....

[elecracr]

Well, i am now out of money, and i do need a motor rebuild, but i am very good at making motors work like new. Haha, but i need just a new pair of brushes.

[Wizardman_1]

I'm bored so here are some updated picks of my buggy. Check out my 2 bulb discharger hahaha :D

[Wizardman_1]

The stock evader body goes down a little below the chassis, i cut mine to as close to the bottom of the chassis as possible and it looks sleeker, like it could go faster. I'm thinking of putting a fan on my motor to make it run cooler now that its getting hot out.

[pudder]

Good plan. I'm glad I got my novak SS, sure gonna be nice to have a cool motor all the time :D

[guver]

Lucky you pudder, sounds like your the one with extra money,
\
Hey wizard, I like the buggy and the 2 bulb. I made a 2 high beam headlite bulb discharger (I hooked all 6 filaments together and it pulls about 10-12 amps.)

Most all my motors run pretty hot, but they're mostly geared for top speed running. I now have added 4 cells to my 8 cell street buggy for total 12 cells. It really flies with stock gearing.

[Wizardman_1]

Since i have an extra motor guard, im gonna see if i can make the fan "become one with the mount" :rolleyes: On the first pic i lightly sanded the paint off so i could have clear windows, well more like foggy windows. It looks better than with the black ones.

[elecracr]

Well, i have tried a fan before, i didnt like it, one because it got ripped off after being torn apart, and because it wasnt too affective.
If you cant hold your motor more than 5 seconds you should just lower your gearing a tooth or two on the pinion, it wont make that huge of a difference, it will be better than burning out your motor.

[Wizardman_1]

How did it get torn apart? did you wreck or just didnt put it on right. They way i plan to put it, it doesnt look like it could get messed up unless they ran over it. I dont really want to wait just to order a pinion anyway, and it gives me a project to do, it gives the car a "pro" look.

[elecracr]

Well, i had it secured properly, but the way i bash and run my car is not good for the rear end because of extreme jumping and stuff, in my case ussually motors without my homemade motor gaurd last more than a month. I had to make a motor guard that covers the whole motor including endbell, i ripped a few motors apart before doing this.
But by all means, go for it, i dont know if it was my sheer crazy bashing of the evader that killed it or what.

[guver]

I'm real curious to see the cooling fan as that would help me too. I've tried some heat sinks, but they always seem to get "bashed" off and broke.

[Wizardman_1]

I did some chores around the house and i think i'll be picking it up tomorrow, if i get lucky. I read this article on xtremerc.com (how to section) it shows how to set one up. I was thinking of putting it on the endbell, but it might be too close to the left rear tire. Maybe i should leave it on the can and have an exhaust tube so the fan will be on the tranny/motor guard but the tube will take the air to the endbell. One of my friends says that if i have the flexible tube there it will look like it has a turbo charger haha :D
Any other suggestions on how to put it?

[Wizardman_1]

I watered down my track and the motor doesnt get as hot, it is just barely overgeared, only if they made a 22 1/2 Tooth pinion if you know wat i mean. Looks like im pickin up my motor in the afternoon hopefully the radioshack has it in stock.

[EvaderRacer76]

i gave my BX to my brother and he put a 10x2 and a super rooster in it. the car flew! he was racing cars down the street until it unfortantly met it's demise while drag racing my friend's dodge neon...

it may be a durable car, but apparently it couldn't withstand a 2 ton car tire running over....twice.

[Wizardman_1]

I just came back from running it with the fan and it helps a little, it doesnt give much airflow so im gonna try it with a separate 9v battery. The fan does add that look i was looking for also. Heres some pics

[Wizardman_1]

As for getting run over, i got run over by my friends nitro truck, i got a bent wing, he got a bent shock tower.

[pudder]

Did you get any pictures atleast?

Unfortunately driving beside cars like that, you are bound to get run over sometime. Last summer I was driving my B3 beside my mom's Malibu down a dirt road, hit a stone in the road I didnt see, my car swerved and went under the rear tire. After the car was stopped, I went to see what was left of my car. Only my front tire, body, and rear shock tower as well as a blue titanium camber link messed up a bit. I had to replace the shock tower and bent the camber link back.

Its a good lesson to learn, but I'm sure that I'll eventually get another car run over. :rolleyes:

[elecracr]

The fan prolly wont work that good, you need alot more airflow. But it looks good and good luck.

[Wizardman_1]

If you use the 9v for powering the fan it gives a lot better airflow, it actually keeps it cooler. :eek: Has anyone thought of making a custom motor mount to mount dual motors? You could buy another mount and cut part of it and then weld it to the other, or machine one. That would be pretty cool. The only thing that i think would be bad is a lot of weight in the back of the car.

[guver]

I was kicking around the idea of making a dual motor 4wd evader monster truck, but hasn't got off the thinking stage yet. haha If I sell my street buggy then maybe I will.

[elecracr]

You can actually make a mount that will have the other motor on top of the spur pointing with the endbell on the other side from the other motor. It takes a little imagination, but it can be done. I did it once for kicks, it took like 3 hours, looked crude but worked. I never ran it though b/c i dont have 2 motors.
Make sure you know this though, 2 motors does not make a car go but maybe 1 mph or so faster, b/c the max rpm is still the same, but you will have massive torque.

[pudder]

Remember,

To use dual motors you will have to have a speed control that can handle dual motors and 12 cells for best performance, or you can just wire your motors in series and use 6.

[elecracr]

I am aware of that, i could use my boat speed control, but 12 cells on a car motor, would prove to be deadly after one or two runs.
Im thinking of making a summer project to try to make a way to bolt on a 700 size motor which i run in my boat to my car and run it on 12 cells, im thinkin that would be a low maintenance way for 40 mph, but i would need some pinions with 4 or 5mm holes

[elecracr]

Well, i got around to buying some brushes yesterday, and i rebuilt my motor with the 12turn arm, all the others are dead. Man, this thing flies now, i havnt driven my car at any descent speed in probobly 1 month, iv been waiting to get brushes. When i was waiting to get brushes though, i reworked my entire suspention pistons and all that good stuff, that car handle excelent onroad and off now, onroad it seems like it is glues down, only rolling over 2 times my whole run, which is good considering your moving 20-30mph. Also, my yard is torn up due to adding on a redoing some rooms, so i can run all over the place in heavy offroad dirk, mulch and bricks with no problems.

[Wizardman_1]

As for handling im using some left over Honda SAE 10W-40 SG/SF motor oil from my dirt bike in the front shocks and some Mazola Canola Oil in the rear. The buggy has really fast suspension action for my bumpy track and a rear yellow sway bar prevents it from rolling too much in the turns. The rear end will absorb the hits instead of bouncing up and down. The front collars at 6 threads down and the rear at 10. Whats your set up?

[Wizardman_1]

New find aluminum rear shock tower, kinda spendy
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAT5&P=Z

[elecracr]

Well. I had an old 550 sized 14.4volt drill motor lying around, so today when it was raining, i hooked it up to my car. The outcome... pathetic. I then got the crazy idea to try and hook 12 cells up to it. I then stole my speed control and reciever pack from my boat, found space to put the batteries and everything, then mounted it. I then did a bench test, this thing was ballooning tires more than my 12 turn. i couldnt run it other than in my garage,because it is raining hard here. But when i was running in the garage, i couldnt hardly keep it under control. It has so much torque it is unbeleivable. Well, long story short, i ripped up a spur gear and this thing is very heavy. I will have a update tommorow, if i can run by the hobby shop by then, or cram the pinion to the spur and run it anyways. haha

[guver]

Hey, that sounds like my street buggy, I used 12 cells and it's for sale in the buy/sell forum

[elecracr]

What esc and motor are you runnning with 12 cells?

[guver]

I use a stock motor and a streak esc. I can say, that 8 cells is the best though, motors last longer and the buggy isn't top heavy at all.

[elecracr]

Well, i dont think that anything much more than 7 cells is wise on the photon, the brushes wear out really quick anyways, but whatever works.
My photon died in under a month with just 6 cells.

[Wizardman_1]

I drilled some holes in my slipper clutch to save some weight, have any of you guys tried that yet. The photon motor seems like a really cheap motor, although it is a lower end power motor. Mine wore out so fast compared to the orion rush i have now.

[guver]

I don't get good life from the photon either, and those rushes seem to have the brushes kinda sticking to the comm after a few runs, I don't get good life from those either.

[Wizardman_1]

I havent noticed that in my rush at all, i clean it about every other run too. What wind did you get.

[elecracr]

I havent done any weight reduction yet, im more an everyday basher, i used to race, but now i just like to do insane stuff. Im thinking of making an aluminum chassis this summer, i still havent gotten a spur gear yet, maybe tonight.

[guver]

I havent noticed that in my rush at all, i clean it about every other run too. What wind did you get.

I've got every wind 11,13,15,17,19 I noticed it with all of them, your right though just a quick cleaning and it works good again. I'm sure I don't clean or turn the comm often enough.

[AirbrushFanatik]

Has anyone found a good setup for a semi-loose surface for the BX(camber, toe in, toe out, ground clearance)?

[elecracr]

I havent raced in so long i cant really tell you my setup for racing anymore.
I gave up on my 12 cell street racer today after disapointing runs. The speed was equal to a 15 turn, but the handling just plain out sucked. I have now gotten my last armature, the 12 turn in and running with great results. I got a discharger for all of my packs and it is working great as i am getting much better runtimes after discharging each day. ANd cycling them with my charger once a week.
My 12 turn almost pulls wheelies with my low ground clearance setup, i am very pleased.

[guver]

Hey I noticed the same thing, when the 12 cell cornered the front wheel was off the ground. I gave up on mine too and it just sold. No more street buggy. I just got a 4-tec and going to try it out tomorrow.

[elecracr]

Yea, i would have had to rework the whole suspention set-up in order to be able to handle how i wanted, and i didnt want to have it like that full time, i think the maximum number of cells you can have in this car safely is 8, maybe 10 if you got new shock oil and spring to make up for the weight. This summer im going to save up and buy a lehner 4200 motor and a brushless esc(still undecided) and run between 6 and 10 cells, im also going to get a gps and hopefully break 65-70 mph on my track at school. THis is going to be a little down the road though, when i have more cash, i dont want to get something that has too many limits for me.

[guver]

I have concluded for the evaders 8 cells, for my e-maxx I use double 8 cells. That way all batts are standardized for me and I can mix and match them. and charge and discharge them too. Keeps it simple.

[Wizardman_1]

How much faster is the evader on 7 cells im thinking of buying 2 more packs and take one apart to make all my packs 7 cell. And today i saw this guy near my house runnin an evader truck off this 2ft ramp, thats the first person around here who i have seen running an rc.

[guver]

I would say 10-15 % faster

[Wizardman_1]

like 3-5mph

[elecracr]

Yes, you can probobly expect a 3-5 mph increase, you may need to drop a tooth for heat, and you will have more maintenance. Yea, nobody in my neighborhood runs rc's.

[Wizardman_1]

Might just be better to buy an Orion Element 19t since its a torquey motor. Still running the stock sprint and it holds up pretty good with my overgeared 21x2, just not used to the no brakes thing. Bent a shock shaft today on the left rear cause when i hit a bump that shock compresses but doesnt come back up, gonna get the Titanium Nitrate shafts all around. Other thing is that i might get a t-maxx for free. Sweetness :D

[derrick]

i have a never been use photon speed motor ask for $11ship if interset e-mail me at moore630@comcast.net

[TurboVeeIIMod]

Hi everyone,

Do you think I should get an Evader Pro? Does anyone have one? Is it any good?

[Mastec]

Its not out yet but I am adding one to my collection when its released.

[Wizardman_1]

My order to tower:
New Gear Cover
Yellow Shock Bushings
40WT Oil
30WT Oil
B3 Front Rims
B3 Rear Rims
ProLine LP 4Rib R3 Tires

[elecracr]

Looks good as long as you are sure those wheels work. Im gunna get some better wheels next, the duratrax ones are crap. I have the yellow ones. Im also thinking of buying a integy machine wound motor in a few weeks to see how is stacks up in performance to the trinity speed gems pros i have used. I have been having good luck with my 12 turn geared 14/87 and using 20 degree advanced timing. It has also been between 80-90 degrees here. And this is staying cool enough through one whole GP3300 pack.

[elecracr]

digital camera vid (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=30759)
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=30753
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=30752
vid (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=30758)

[Marburg]

I just purchsed the sway bars and I'm having problems attaching them in the front per the instructions. Can anyone help?

[*Supreme Losi*]

OOH!OOH!ME!ME!Pick me to help.NO(J/K) :rolleyes: Force it.If it breaks,it needed replacing anyways.....Well,back to reality.Do you see the holes closest to the bumper on the arms?

[Wizardman_1]

You dont really need the front that bad, it just makes the suspension act more pogo stick anyway. The rear does help as it reduces roll and prevents spinning out. You cant do donuts as easily anymore. The parts are pretty fragile though.

Check this site out
http://members.cox.net/sdracing/index.html

[Marburg]

Nice site and thx for the info

[Wizardman_1]

Yea i searched yahoo for some rc sites and this was the best one on the evader.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Hey,if you want killer speed for a great price,get a monster of touring 19t and put a 20t pinion with an 88t spur.Tons of torque!Ripped up my tires a good bit.

[Wizardman_1]

Your gear ratio is a little too low for normal running. You probly should just use the 20T with the stock 81T spur.

[elecracr]

If im not mistaken, the monster of touring motors are high rpm motors. This means that the gear ratio will have to be lower to achieve proper gear ratio. With a more torque motor, you can gear higher, not all 19 turns need to be geared the same, and for just running around i like torque more anyways. So maybe supreme losi can tell us more about his setup.
I found that some of my motors can handle up to 4-5 teeth over the turn number, but then others need as close to one tooth over the turn number, it depends just as much on where you are running, what brand, and how hot it is where you live. I ussually go down a tooth on the pinion in the summer here.

[Wizardman_1]

I got my tower hobbies order today, B3 Rims work in all corners and it widens the rear by about an 1/8" on each side and didnt really notice any widening in the front that much. Pro Line LP R3's have a way bigger side wall than the stock tires but are a bit narrower on top. I have to get my tires off my old rims and try it out tomorrow.

[Wizardman_1]

The car really flies in the corners with the widened rear. It takes one of my corners at full speed now that i used to take 3/4 throttle. The shock oil makes the shocks smoother and it doesnt bottom as easily in the front now. It is also a lot more stable the chassis barely rolls in the turns. The buggy doesnt drift through it keeps its traction better. You guys should try the B3 rears when you get new rims.

[pudder]

Since I hang around here, I thought I'd show you my buggy. My B3 FT.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08841.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08842.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08843.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08844.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC08848.JPG

[Wizardman_1]

Nice paint job, looks good.

Another thing when using the B3 front rims you have to cut a little of the inside "spokes" part of it rubs on the arm on extreme left-right turns.

[Burn.Unit]

You guys should try the B3 rears when you get new rims.

Do you think or know if B4 front and rear rims will work? My tires are almost bald and I figured why not try your idea. Is there much of a difference?

[*Supreme Losi*]

Hey y'all. You know how a lot of hobby shops don't have duratrax parts?Well,the better part of the losi xxx cr parts including rear arms will fit the bx.XXX CR, not xx.I bought a fiberglass front shock tower for a xx and it barely didn't fit.If you trim the bottom middle off of it, it will fit perfectly.

[*Supreme Losi*]

OMG! Listen to all the upgrades I've put on!


RPM yellow ball cups
Yellow rims all around
blue aluminum shock nuts
Monster of touring 19t
20t RRP pinion
88t spur
TL green springs in front
AE blue springs in rear
rally hawgs in rear
4-ribs in front
xxx-cr graphite rear arms
V3R speed control
w.s deans ultra wire
Kimbrough plastic wing
b2 body with parma big flames mask in blue
yellow bumper

[elecracr]

Sounds good supreme losi!

[Wizardman_1]

Burn.Unit: The B4 rear rims work but it will actually make the rear width smaller. Dont think they work in the front. I used the stock Associated B3 front rims and the Proline wide body rears for the B3 which make the rear wider. The tires are spread apart more which gives it a bigger foot print on the terrain. The B3 rims for the front just trim a little bit close the bearings on the inside of the rim and it wont rub the arm anymore. These rims are much better quality and havent cracked or broken yet after 5 runs.

Also the B3/T3 slipper pad works on the Evaders also. So do the B3 bodies.

[pudder]

I've found that the duratrax rims crack too. :( Last year I used a set on my T3 for the rear and the sides of the rims cracked quite a bit. Right now I'm using duratrax rims on the front of my T3 and I dont think they are cracked that much. One thing is sure, my blue buggy rim sure cracked when my moms malibu ran over it! :rolleyes:

[Wizardman_1]

Pudder can you do me a favor and measure the front and rear width of your B3 from the outside of the tire.

[pudder]

I'll try to get around to it tomorrow when I get home from school. :)

[Wizardman_1]

This is what i mean by cutting pieces out, hopefully you get what i mean, the pic didnt come out that good.

Pudder: We got out last friday :D . Just wanted to compare, mines 9 3/8" Front, 10 1/4" rear

[Burn.Unit]

Wizardman_1: Gotcha, What would you suggest to be a good rear tire on loose dirt. Or better yet...an all around good tire for (offroad) races.

[pudder]

Good buggy tire for loose dirt is Losi Step Pins. The only drawback to these tires is they are meant for racing so they wear down fairly fast bashing. Don't forget, pro-line also has those bashing tires for buggies... dirt hawgs?

[guver]

I used b-4 rims on the front, but I think I also used the truck knuckles, so I'll find out later if they'll work on a stock buggy. I think they will.

[Wizardman_1]

Is it loose dirt as in dusty dirt or wet loose dirt? For dusty use Pro-Line LP R3 4-Ribs and for the other Pro-Line Wide 4Rib R3 and rear M3 Bowties. You might want to buy the wide body front rims for the Wide 4Rib. For loose dirt you want a tall kind of tread and my bowties are pretty good on my dusty track. The proline Dirt Hawg III's wouldn't be that good since they are flat like a road tire, dont have a very long tread. Those would probly be good for a more hard packed surface. Dont really know much about losi tires.

[pudder]

I race on dry/wet loose dirt and everyone runs Losi Step Pins. I find they are a better compound than Pro-Line. I've tried bowties on loose dirt and they really are nothing compared to step pins.

[Wizardman_1]

I should try those sometime but the thing is my LHS never stocks buggy tires when im there only Monster truck tires, the same with their kits. Mostly all traxxas stuff and all the popular monsters then for racing they have losi only but no tires. I am gonna check out another that looks pretty good, dont know if they are stiff in business cause they got robbed $40,000 of stuff. They had an indoor on-road and outdoor off-road.

[pudder]

Thats too bad about the hobby shop getting robbed. :(

I still got to get around to measuring my buggy... maybe tomorrow :rolleyes:

[Wizardman_1]

Hey check out the New stuff forum and then the Evader Pro Parts. They've got all the upgrades in separate packages.

[Burn.Unit]

I was in a race and got my antenna taken off by a pretty nice wreck. (Knocked the wheel off the other guys buggy as mine lost the antenna). Well I got a new wire and heard they are suppose to be a certain length. Can anyone help me out with this.

It's a 75.550 mhz duratrax Rx-100 2 channel reciever. (the stock one)

[guver]

I have measured 2 one was 19" this one is 18" I don't think either was cut any either.

[Burn.Unit]

I've heard it's suppose to be like...27 inches :confused:

But I wasn't completely sure of that due to the fact I've forgotten the actual number. But I'm pretty sure it's in the 20's.

[Wizardman_1]

mine got cut also and i just replaced it with a wire from an old mouse. Didnt really pay attention to length, it works fine.

[crymynal]

Ok, I've read this entire thing. Now my questions.....I want to get a couple of set of wheels. What is the best LOW budget wheels? I will be putting street tires on them. What would work? My stock rear tires have worn out (broke) so I want to replace them with something more durable. What is your suggestions? I only use my evader to bash when my nitros are not wanting to cooperate. Also, the motor has gotten sluggish (brushes worn?) what is the easiest way to get it back to speed?

http://geocities.com/crymynal2000/gifs/Evader18.gif

[Wizardman_1]

You should have read a little more carefully. Anyways for the rims you should get stock B3 rims, they even make you car wider in the rear. The stock motor is good but it wears out really fast you should upgrade to a cheap orion rebuildable. For tires Dirt Hawg I's would be alright since they are not all street tire. As for getting back up to speed i think only one more set of brushes on the Photon and it will be done, thats how mine was.

Rims: I actually used the pro-line ones, but these are cheaper
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ13&P=7

Tires
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU13&P=7

Motor
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBF9&P=7

Brushes
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDZ30&P=7

[crymynal]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000270462&I=LXDU34&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000270462&I=LXDU33&P=K


on the contrary my friend. I did read carefully and that is why these items are in my wish list at tower. after checking demensions and measuring my stocks the numbers don't add up. I was checking to see if these would work or if anyone had a better idea from experience.

Thanks for the advice on the wheels and motor. I had not found those yet.

[guver]

crymynal, I have used the front ones with b-4 wheels and was very pleased with the traction on road surfaces.