Duratrax Evader BX Buggy

[crymynal]

guver...If I remember right (wizardman-correct me if I'm wrong) the B4s you used were not on the stock set up. You say you used them on the front with the Road Rage on an Evader Bx? Did you have to mod them any?

[guver]

Yes, that's correct I didn't mod them, but I think I may have used the knuckles and/or axles from an evst though. I cant check, cuz the evbx is sold. I'm going to check a new one (evbx) with the b-4 (front) wheels and see if they fit.

[Wizardman_1]

Guver: Do the B4 rims make the front end wider?
Crymynal: Are you really going to be on road all the time? It might get boring pretty fast with the Evader since it kinda slow on pavement. The temptation to go off-road will keep haunting you and to save money i would recommend getting the Dirt Hawg's all around so you will only have one set of tires for on or off road. For rims i would use the B3 rears and B4 fronts if they make the front wider.

Fronts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU14&P=7

Rears:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU13&P=7

[guver]

I just tried front and rear b-4 rims and don't recommend either ones. They both have offset more towards the center of the buggy making it narrower and they both hit making them not so good. I wish now I had b-3 's to try as I'm going to biuld up an evbx soon.

[crymynal]

wizardman...I know what you mean. What I intend to do is purchase another set of wheels all around. Put the road rage on those. Buy a good replacement for the stock rear tires and put those on the stock wheels. I don't have any cracks.

guver..so the B4's don't work. What else would?

These from pro-line?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW00&P=M

[guver]

Not sure, I don't have them.
Hey I just got my new BX almost rtr have to break-in the motor yet . stock tires and all.Had to set the gear mesh and set slipper and fit the body. Today or tommorrow is maiden voyage.....

[Wizardman_1]

I just read a few pages back on this thread (pages 7,8 posts by JeepsDaddy) and I think only the B4 rears would work, the B4 fronts would hit and you would probly have to cut out so much that it would mess up the wheel. As for the wheels you posted those are for the front rims, if you want to get a wide front tire. I bought the Pro-Line ones cause when I ordered them they were like $2 something but then when my order got there they went back up to $6.19. These are the rims I bought:

Front:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3456&P=7

Rears: (or the other ones i posted if you would like)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW06&P=7

[guver]

the rear ones hit the shocks when the shocks are in the outermost hole in arm and when the suspension is a full droop/extension.

[Wizardman_1]

^^^^ Those are the B4 rims right? My B3's dont.

[guver]

Yes , correct

[guver]

Where can I get a replacement rear wing? I don't want to buy the body. Actuaally any wing that may fit, the stock one sucks anyways.

[guver]

I've heard it's suppose to be like...27 inches :confused:

But I wasn't completely sure of that due to the fact I've forgotten the actual number. But I'm pretty sure it's in the 20's.

Hey, Burn I just measured 2 new rx antenna they were both 19.25" stock rx on the evbx

[*Supreme Losi*]

OMG! Listen to all the upgrades I've put on!


RPM yellow ball cups
Yellow rims all around
blue aluminum shock nuts
Monster of touring 19t
20t RRP pinion
88t spur
TL green springs in front
AE blue springs in rear
rally hawgs in rear
4-ribs in front
xxx-cr graphite rear arms
V3R speed control
w.s deans ultra wire
Kimbrough plastic wing
b2 body with parma big flames mask in blue
yellow bumperNow,I have aluminum wheel nuts.Also,Trinity serrated brushes.

[guver]

Now I need to find a wing and aluminum wheels nuts,,,, are they lock-nuts ? where can I get them?

[pudder]

I know Trinity makes blue aluminum lock nuts for Losi vehicles, which would probably fit the Evader.

[Burn.Unit]

Hey Wizard man, I took your advice and got the b3 wide rears with some bowties. :eek: :eek: IT'S WIDE!!! I was completely amazed with it. I even added the combination of the rear sway bar. Only problem being...my motor is out of comission as of now. Something about crappy brushes... :mad: But I plan on getting a new one all together. I noticed you had advised that Team Orion one. I was curious if you had any other suggestions for a good Racing 20+ Turn motor around 20 bucks. I've been going through looking at all the main sites reviews ect ect. I've been looking at the TO Rush? I think that's it. Also the Peak performance Jaguar. I think both of those are 21x1's. Then there's also the Havok that's a 21x2. Any or all of those any good? and on the topic of turns and winds. How much of a difference will there be from a 21x1 to a 21x2?

[pudder]

Single winds produce more torque than double, triple, etc, but the higher winds will produce more rpm.

[Burn.Unit]

So a regearing may be in order? Or should I be fine with the stock gears.

Is it a noticeable difference or just one of those things you'd have to stare at pretty hard.

[Wizardman_1]

Its pretty sweet isnt it, on those high bank turns you'll really fly. The sway bar also makes a difference in high bite tracks it reduces the buggy from "hooking" and turning another direction. With the addition of the bar if you have a bumpy track move the tops of the rear shocks in and its more stable and doesnt bounce around as much. This is with 30wt oil and shock collars 12 threads down. However on a loose/dusty track the car will spin out if you get too crazy. The Team Orion Rush is a 21x2 thats what i have on right now. With the stock gearing the motor and ESC get hot, thats why i put a fan on. You could go down to a 22T and it would probly be just fine. I kind of did notice a little increase in speed and not as much torque. With one tooth down on the pinion it would probly be about the same as stock maybe a tad higher top speed. I run mine at max. timing. Oh and dont forget extra brushes when you get your motor. :D

[Burn.Unit]

I might be able to get my hands on a novak esc that handles down to 14 turns. Now if I got a 15x2 havok would that be a good upgrade? More speed, power, ect ect. Is it possible for me to open it up and turn it into a 15x1 or even back to a 20x1?

[Wizardman_1]

I dont think Havok's are rebuildable but you could if you really wanted. Also you would need to regear and motor would wear out faster. Thats why im staying 20+ turns to save money on stuff and hop up the rest of the car.

[Burn.Unit]

Oi, Here's basically what I did today. I got a Novak Fusion for free! So I figured I still needed a motor...I got a 19t Trinity Chameleon 2 Pro for like 30$. I'm wiring it up right now but it came with these resistor looking things. I'm wondering if I need to wire those up as well or leave them off. On a side note. Is this a good motor? It looked shiny so I bought it. :p

[Burn.Unit]

Ok...so I've found out what the capacitors (sp?) are and I'm trying to figure out how to put them on. I'm also guessing that this is a modified motor. Ontop of that I'm not quite sure if this motor is good for racing buggys...but I got it now and I'm going to run it.

I was curious as to if anyone had any pictures to help me put the capacitors on and the leads that connect to the esc. I know how to soder I just don't know where what goes. That and there were no instructions that came with the motor. Just kinda a hit and guess kinda thing.

[Burn.Unit]

And I'm gonna guess that there's no edit button for this site. Anyways. How do you find out the gear ratio? And how do you find out how to bring it back to "Stock" gearing when you get different motors. ect ect.

[Wizardman_1]

The edit button is next to the quote button but only like for a little while after you post. To find the primary gear ratio divide the spur by the pinion, for example: factory stock 81T spur/ 23 pinion ~ 3.52:1 ratio. The transmission ratio: Diff gear 47T/ Top shaft 18T ~ 2.61:1 ratio. Final drive ratio: 2.61 * 3.52 ~ 9.2:1 ratio. You could pretty much get your pinion tooth number from what the B4 guys are running. Dont really know much about the resistor things, i know its so it wont glitch as much. Only if i could get free ESC's. I've heard that motor is good for the price, does anybody know if it a torque motor. The Orion Element would've been on my list since you can gear up a tooth due to the extra torque. Has anybody tried to put truck tires and rims on their buggy, they have an article in the June '04 RCCA where they make a B4 into a "monster buggy" It would be neat to see how it would turn out.

[Burn.Unit]

Yeah I saw that. If I had Money to toss around I'd most deff do that.

After putting on the capacitors I found out that...you're not suppose to put them on because they're already installed. So now I got to pull them off. It wouldn't be so bad if this wasn't such a good job of soddering them on. Oh well. Hopefully it didn't mess anything up.

I went to test it out. It couldn't go straight at all because water was all over my driveway. All it wanted to do was doughnuts. So I'm guessing it has abit of power. But I'll have a complete anwser on that tomorrow.

I'm looking into getting some RC10 gears, because I simply hate the Duratrax gears. They just feel way to small to me for some odd reason.

I think it's torquie. It's got rpm/torque 22,500/125. Is there any comparison for the stock motor?

[Wizardman_1]

The gears? Do you mean the stock pinion cause that is just all messed up, i took the tip from the site i posted and bought a Robinson metal pinion with the car. What size of a pinion are you running? The soldering shouldn't have messed anything up unless you did something extreme.

[Burn.Unit]

They're the stock gears. 48p 23/81t.

But holy bejesus this car is a flare. I completely out run my dads 17t motor. Only problem was the day ended with a broken A Arm. I ran into my dads car side ways and snapped off his arm. So now I'm headed out to get him a new arm.

Which is better. Aluminum or Carbon. I hear they're both suppose to be strong and light but I have no clue. Alum. Sounds stronger though.

[Wizardman_1]

Is it an evader also, if it is i would just send the arm to duratrax, follow the instructions in the manual and you'll get a free pair. The aluminum arms arent really worth it for any car, it puts way too much stress on other parts and it adds a lot of weight. By carbon do you mean graphite? If you are doing a lot of bashing it will break easier because the material is stiffer. The stock replacement would be cheapest. I have to convice my dad to get a car one of these days, if not i might try some onroad for a little while.

[Burn.Unit]

Naw, My dad's a RC10B4. We do team races mostly and our strategy usally goes something along the lines of...If I'm in first...break the other cars. So we need mostly durable pieces.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000576234&I=LXEAG8&P=K
Says they're carbon.

I ordered some alum. Parts for my car the other day because I snapped them. but they were still driveable. I plan on as soon as I get the new ones installed to get the stress tech ish done on them.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK0&P=X

So I'm gonna guess there's 3 types of parts. Plastic, Carbon, and Alum. What's their good, bad, and ugly.

[MIS080043]

I have a couple of questions! I heard rumor that regular AA's in the controller will effect your car? Seconed my buggy runs good excepct when I hit a sharp turn then it likes to cut out. In order to make the car run again i need to mess with the battery/esc connection? So im asking anyone who has a clue what to do. Where is this problenm and what needs to be done to fix it?

[Wizardman_1]

Burn.Unit: You can get that graphite arm for you dad's buggy if you want, they will break easier though because the graphite (or carbon?) is stiffer. The reason they use stiffer parts is so the car will be more rigid and respond to commands better than the plastic parts that bend a little then respond. For bashing the plastic one would be best. The aluminum will be a lot heavier, and that looks pretty spendy as well. The metal part will make the car a little more durable in that area but farther away parts will break due to the extra stress from the weight. Plastic parts bend a little before they break and give you a bit more suspension travel. The bad thing is that they dont respond well to input as fast as more rigid parts. For example take a rear wheel off your evader and push that suspension arm up, you can see it flex quite a bit.

MIS: I use a 9.6V pack from a Radio Shack car, that just sounds like your battery is low on voltage.

[MIS080043]

well it was working fine for a long time untill lately!

[MIS080043]

I'm just going to go get a new servo. Any suggestions?

[Wizardman_1]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ88&P=ML
This one is pretty good

[guver]

I like the cs, ts, hs 70 mg's

[pudder]

I bought a couple Hitec 625MG's a while ago and have used them in many vehicles including my T3, B3, Stampede, Pancar, and more. They are extremely durable and I havent had any problems with them at all. They are also low priced too.

[Megazone23]

Here's a servo question for everyone. I was looking at the Futaba S3305, because it has metal gears and looks like it would fit in the Evader (I have an ST), however its specs say that Futaba recommends using it ONLY with NiCd batts. I thought that was odd, so I sent Furaba Support (see also Hobbico) an email asking why it wouldn't work with NiMHs. They said that it's because of the discharge rate -- the NiCds discharge slowly whereas the NiMHs have an abrupt drop-off. So then I asked why that made a difference to the servo, to which I got the response:

"We can only relay the information that Futaba Japan gives us. If you need a high torque servo you can use either:

FUTM0102 S9402 SRVO HI-SPEED CORELSS BB MG for $119.99
FUTM0095 S9304 SERVO BB CORELESS SURF for $89.99"

WHAT?! Their solution is to buy a servo that is either twice or triple the cost of the one I'm asking about.

As far as I'm concerned, I couldn't care less if the servo quits working right when the battery dies -- it's not like my truck is going anywhere anyway since the motor will stop working, too. I mean it's one thing if the servo will be damaged by the sudden drop-off discharge rate, in which case I wish they'd just come out and say so. If they're afraid of being sued for some reason, then I wish they'd just say that, too.

Anyone have any experience with the Futaba S3305?

[Burn.Unit]

I noticed that as well...but I never asked any questions about it. Although I think the best place for your question would be in the electronic forum. Seems it'd just be more fitting. If you do post it in that forum as well put a link in here. I would like to know the anwser as well.

[Megazone23]

Sorry, I just figured since the topic had swung to servos, I'd ask it here. Here's the link to my new posting in the electronics forum:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1487641#post1487641

[Burn.Unit]

I understand. Not being a nazi on you (Not big enough post count for that yet lol). Just figured you might get a faster anwser.

[Megazone23]

No offense taken, bud. :)

[Wizardman_1]

Hey what else have you guys been tryin out with your buggies. I havent been able to run mine for a while cause drivers ed, lifting, AP classes, and this weekend my best friends brother drowned. Any of you guys have some crazy ideas that i could do to make it stand out, but be reasonable.

[guver]

Here's mine lately.

14 turn motor , 16 turn esc and 7 cell batts, It gets pretty good.

[Burn.Unit]

19 turn motor 14 turn esc and 6 cells. It clears a good triple here and there. Usually when it's in top shape. Altho I've been having problems with my diff. Feels like sand is in there, but I've cleaned it out like 3 times. Then it starts to slip (Not my slipper clutch). I'm thinking to much greese or something. But that doesn't explain the sandy feeling. It's only when I spin one tire as well. When I pull down on the gas no problems.

[*Supreme Losi*]

well it was working fine for a long time untill lately!What type of speed control is it?You may need to get a new speed control or get someone to re-solder the wires.

[Megazone23]

Burn -- maybe its your bearings?

[guver]

How about tiny divets in the thrust washers/ diff ringsor flat spots on the balls?

Usually my tiny thrust bearing getrs dirty and wears out

[Wizardman_1]

The gritty stuff is the bearings! Put the bearings from the rear hub carriers in an old soda bottle cap and soak them in WD-40 and shake them around a bit and you will see how much dirt is inside. One will be stuck on the universal most likely just lightly tap it out. You'll see a noticable difference. As for the thrust bearing i just switch the washer around to the other side, i also have the carbide set for the diff and thrust balls. When the diff rings get grooves you should replace them and put the new ones smooth side towards the diff gear. Also to report that the Race Prep "P" brushes gave a little more punch to my buggy when i put them in.

[guver]

Good tip, I've been using them on the + and the "R" brush on -

[MIS080043]

What type of speed control is it?You may need to get a new speed control or get someone to re-solder the wires.
Its a duratrax sprint esc (stock).Im planning to get a new 1 pretty soon though

[AirbrushFanatik]

What long lasting wheel/tire combo has everyone replaced the Evaders Stock set with, my friend had a little bit to much fun with my buggy and now i have slicks!

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

[Burn.Unit]

Yeah I switched out my Bearings. No difference O_O;;. I think it's probably the washers. But tomorrow is my last race for a good looooooong while. Leaving for the Army on the 12th.

If you guys are curious. I'm going to Ft.Knox to become a Tanker (M1A2 Abrams MBT) for 5 whole years. It's gonna be awesome.

I got to test my buggy out on the track today. That thing is a MAJOR beast. As a matter of fact I had a button installed on my car called beast mode...cause there's just to much of it to use all the time. Might go into a beast mode melt down. no but seriously. The thing flys. The wider tires give it an extreme amount of control and the new motor and speed control are hoss. I switched the gears to a 24/78 set up. The speed control still stays cool and it blows past most other cars. Some nitros too. Should see the look on their faces. goes something like. >_<!!. Then they find out it runs off batteries.

Current Gear:
-Chameleon pro 2 19 turn spec
-Novak Fusion
-24/78 gearing
-B3 wide rims with bow tie rears.
-Duratrax rims with Proline rib fronts.
-Annnnd...a new radio...cause it was cool looking.
-I replaced a few pieces here and there. Nothing spectacular cept for the cool blue alum. thingys that are really shiny.

I'm looking for a new gear cover that's a weebit more durable than that flimsy plastic thing they got. I've almost destroyed it and it's no real use any more.

[Wizardman_1]

Well it looks like the Pro-Line Bowties are a pretty good tire since all the R3 compounds are for blue groove and barely have any tread on them. With that gearing i bet it sure flies, do your motor or ESC get hot at all? I dont think they have any other gear covers unless you could get one of the RPM ones to fit. If you dont tighten the cover's screws that hard the cover will last a while.

[Burn.Unit]

The motor gets pretty warm. esc stays cool no matter what gearing I run. I usually spray the motor down with some cleaner after the races so cool it off some. It keeps it happy for the most part. I tried getting an RPM cover for it but none would fit.

[elecracr]

Well, sounds like you have gotten your car all trimmed out lately.

Well, i havent been around much lately, b/c my last armature in the tool box finally died, and i have no money for a new motor due to saving up for real car and such. So i have een without my evader for a month or so now. AND ITS SUMMER. I just need to pray to god that my motor in my boat doesnt go, because i think i would go crazy without any rc's. Man, i really never knew how much of a stress reliever driving and working on my evader was, but now, i have tinkered with all i can tinker with, and i am without a motor. Well, i will hopefully get a 17 or so modified motor in a while, so it will last me longer, eventhough it will seem slow compared to my 12 turn that i had, it will be something. Then, my birthday is in november and im gunna try and get a brushless motor then and a esc for christmas. This way i can spread out the funds and still have a fast system. My parents definately wont pay for a new motor, they never spot me any money, which is fine with me, but now i dont get allowance being i drive and use their gas, so this hobby is near impossible.

[Wizardman_1]

I had to choose whether to use the $250 for drivers ed or for brushless, now im driving but my parents dont charge me for gas. We got rear-ended yesterday and we got a rental car its a '04 Dodge Durango, man that thing is sweet you barely press the gas and you can feel the power of that 5.7L Hemi. That car is huge on the inside and out. It does pretty good mileage, barely lower than our '02 Chrysler Sebring with the V6 (the one that got hit). As for rc i made a shroud over my fan with some spare metal and meshed the intake so rocks and stuff wont get in. Motors wear out too fast sometimes, thats why i like to stay around 20T.

[Megazone23]

Wiz, I think you made the right choice by going with the driver's ed. A full-size car will take you farther than an RC. :D

[Burn.Unit]

Wiz, I think you made the right choice by going with the driver's ed. A full-size car will take you farther than an RC. :D

Well...if you tie up 8 rc cars like a pack of dogs on a sled team...you might get somewhere.

[Wizardman_1]

^^^ thats funny, two modded e-maxx's could probly do the trick

[elecracr]

Haha, yea, V8 power is alot different than V6. My parents have a Lincoln LS, which has a V8, but my dad wont let me drive that without a parent in the car, untill i can, im still using my dads 1994 ford ranger.... But its kinda fun with manual transmition... It really gets sucky traction, so you need to watch it in the rain.

[Megazone23]

Hm, I went the opposite direction. I learned to drive in a '78 Buick LeSabre with a 350CI V8, drove a '82 Buick LeSabre with a 307CI V8, and bought a '89 Acura Integra with a 1.6L I4 when I got out of college. I miss having RWD big American steel until I get to the gas pumps. :D

[Burn.Unit]

Haha, yea, V8 power is alot different than V6. My parents have a Lincoln LS, which has a V8, but my dad wont let me drive that without a parent in the car, untill i can, im still using my dads 1994 ford ranger.... But its kinda fun with manual transmition... It really gets sucky traction, so you need to watch it in the rain.

I use to have a 2wd ford ranger 4.0 v6. I got awesome gas milage with it, 400 miles to tank. But yeah...when it rained I'd spin out everywhere. I made it home in the ice on a miricle once. But now I gotta Jeep Cherokee. The milage leaves a little to be desired...but...how do you beat 32 inch tires? You don't.

[Wizardman_1]

Does your Jeep have the V8 in it, the '05 Jeep Grand Cherokee is going to have the 5.7L Hemi in it, when you drive at highway or city speed for a while it shuts off 4 of its cylinders, thats pretty cool. The Jeep we have only has the I-6 but we dont need that much power anyway.

[pudder]

How much is drivers ed over there? Mine was 50$.

While we're on the topic of real vehicles, I picked up this '78 Ford Ranger F150 a few months back. It has a 351 modified, but it needs a lot of work so I will probably just buy another truck with a 351 and drop that in. :)

http://64.42.204.232/trucks/DSC08490.JPG

[Wizardman_1]

Damn, our class is $250 and the car we use is a '94 Ford Taurus 4-door. It would be pretty cool if you fixed it up to go off-roading and stuff. For a car i would like Jeep Wrangler or a front-wheel drive coupe kinda like a Celica or something, maybe even a beetle since it would be light.

[Megazone23]

You should check out the Cooper Mini if you want a good power to weight ratio.

[elecracr]

Here in virginia beach, the class is 100 through the public school system.

[derrick]

i have a bx and i'am look to buy a body to paint which one will fit let me know and if you have a link to it that will be good

[Wizardman_1]

B3 Deja Vu Tu
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ14&P=7

Evader Clear Body
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXR6&P=7

B4 Interceptor (mods needed)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEME8&P=7

B4 Crowd Pleazer (mods needed)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGCZ4&P=7

[Wizardman_1]

Where has everybody gone?

[AirbrushFanatik]

I am not sure, i think once the forum turned to full scale cars it disenegrated...

Anyways, i am thinking of ordering new rims tires through tower, B3 wide front and rear.
I think earlier in this thread someone said those work, has anyone put those on your Evader, do you have the exact rims/tires?

[Wizardman_1]

Yep, that would be me, i used stock associated fronts, pro-line wide rears, makes rear wider, its in a few posts back. I just found out that Pro-Line made Step Pins for buggies! I'll be getting a pair when the Bowties wear out. Well running in 100F temp over here i definantly need to gear down, going to use a 86T spur with stock pinion so the motor will sit lower.

[*Supreme Losi*]

Hey guys.If you want major speed with great acceleration,get a Venom 15T Fireball.Goes like 45 mph.Anyways,this was a bump.

[Wizardman_1]

Where do you get the Venom motors and stuff, can you mail order directly from them?

[elecracr]

I dont think there is really any way you can realistically get 45 mph on a 15 turn motor. I have no Gps, but i have ran many motors, and i will tell you a 15 turn motor i would think realistically hits 30-35 with nice batteries. Probobly closer to 30. I just bought another speed gems pro 15 turn motor, and i will tell you it is not 45mph, and this motor is just as fast if not faster than the fireball.

What gearing are you running, i agree that a 15turn motor is fast, but i dont think it can hit 45. i have ran down to 12 turn motors, and those can probobly get into the 40's, but they have too much maintenance.

Give us some more info on your set-up. Such as gearing, cell counts, and esc. I just dont see a 15 turn motor hitting 45 on 6or7 cells, especially a low budget modified. If you are jumping up from the stock motor, it may seem much faster, but a 5-10mph jump is made you may mistake it for 20 or so. Im not saying your lying, im just asking if you can supply more information to support yourself.

[Wizardman_1]

Maybe you should try some of the Orion Revoloutions, i've heard of people using them that say they last quite a while. Also they are selling the endbell kit that you adapt to pretty much any motor. How fast do you guys think the evader will go with an Element 19T with 24/81 gearing?

[elecracr]

They are great motors, and i think i may buy the endbell kit, but i dont have enough money for the actuall whole motor. Also, a 19turn racing spec motor is about the same speed at a mild mod 15 turn motor. This is so because of the advanced timing, and also because the element is a handwound racing motor. So i think 30-35 would be easily possible with that motor. Also, because the brushes last longer, im sure you could put more voltage through it, with descent maintenance.

[Wizardman_1]

Pretty sweet, i have some money but i dont know wether to buy some cell shrink and batt bars or to get a new motor. I have a lot of cordless drill batteries that i could build up some packs with but they're only 1400mah. The other thing is that i also have to replace a rear shock shaft.

[elecracr]

Go for the motor, not the drill battery route. I have done that and the batteries perform like crap. They drop off way before they dump, so you only have 3 minutes or so of full throttle running.

[Wizardman_1]

I was thinking the same thing about the batteries, i did make a 4 cell pack to break in brushes/motor and it doesnt last very long either. If i did save a little more though i could make a 7-cell pack out of my existing one from extra cells in my dead pack. Have you gotten any new armatures yet?

[elecracr]

I had to buy a brand new motor, because my motor cans and endbells from my older motors are pretty much dead. I went ahead and got another 15 turn titanite, speed gems pro, because i like the mix of speed and maintenance. I broke it in a ran it and am very pleased, i was going to get an integy motor, but i decided to just go ahead and get what i know works, because i dont have the money right now to experiment. The next motor i get is going to be a integy machine wound or i am going to get a endbell kit from orion and try it on different motors.
Right now though, i think i have to get a new differential gear, i didnt grease it enough last time i rebuilt it, and now it has some sharp teeth and some that are halfway gone, i can run it now, it just makes a really loud grinding noise when i accelerate. Im just going to get another nylon one being it took me over one years to kill this one, when and if i go brushless, which i plan on doing this winter, i will beef up my transmition, with carbon fiber spurs, and alluminum or other metal gears. Im also going to need to change quite a few of my stock parts to alluminum.

[microrcdude]

if you can, use titanium screws. Duratrax makes crappy screws that break to the touch. Plus, it will make the screws half the weight. you can take lightning to the extreme by using aluminum screws in less crutial areas.Also, if you plan on racing, stay away from the aluminum parts. try their graphite parts.

[Wizardman_1]

If you have read around the Evader ST forum they do use an alloy diff gear from HGI and this guy (Modfather) just ordered some aluminum tranny parts you could check out how good it works. Where do you get the carbon fiber spurs, ive never heard of those? Unless you are going to be major bashing i would agree with the carbon instead of aluminum, other than the tranny and hinge brace a lot of aluminum wouldnt be that necessary

[microrcdude]

thanks wizard for backin me up.

[elecracr]

Yes, i understand that i dont really need the aluminum unless i am doind some major bashing, but when i get my brushless i plan on converting all my packs to 8 cells, which will hopefully put me around 50, which will mean lots af broken plastic with the stuff i do. Im not gunna do all aluminum at once, im thinking a little as i break.
Also, im planning on converting all my screws to hex titanium, and i have already heard of the use of the b2 gear.Thanks for the tips.

And, i wont be racing much, but if i do aluminum wont be a big deal for weight, being im going to be running a heavily powered evader!


THe carbon spurs (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN202&P=7) can be found here.

Im not planning on starting this project untill november at my birthday time so i can get a jumpstart without using my money.

[microrcdude]

HPI spur gears are the worst. They get eaten up so dang quick.

[elecracr]

If you know how to set the gear mesh those carbon fiber spurs should last for a long time. I ussually dont get them though unless im ordering from tower being my lhs doesnt carry them.

I found out that my differential is stripped, man my tranny sounds like it is gunna cry right now, lots of grinding, haha, maybe that means i need to change the gear. I think i have a spare, if not il run up to hobbytown and hopefullly they will have it in stock. THis sucks that i got a new motor and now i cant run it!

[Wizardman_1]

Will the Orion Element armature alone fit in my Rush? Its much cheaper than buying a whole new motor. I always hate it when you get a new part but then cant run your car cause something just broke.

[elecracr]

Dont just the the element armature, as that motor will run best with the whole system, i suppose it is possible to run the armature only. Look into just handwound arms at integy. As they are cheap.

[elecracr]

Well, when i had everything off the backof my car i decided to clean everything.... I am now all clean and sparkly! Now all i need to do is get some new gears so i can get it dirty again. i found that the idler is also partly stripped, which is fine being i have an extra, the extra differential gear i had i found out was too big b/c the one my lhs gave me was the nitro one, which i bought a while ago so i could fix it when it went. So now im kinda mad that they gave me the incorrect part, i bring in a neat list of part numbers and names, then they give me the wrong part.

[Wizardman_1]

Speaking about LHS i just found out that mine is back in business! We might even go race next weekend.

[elecracr]

Awesome.... Good luck, is the track in good condition. Hopefully you can get some practice time in before race day to get dialed in, also, what class are you running in, and what set-up.

[microrcdude]

[QUOTE=elecracr]If you know how to set the gear mesh those carbon fiber spurs should last for a long time.[QUOTE]I highly doubt my gear mesh was set wrong. I asked a pro to help me get my car dialed.

[Wizardman_1]

I have no clue how the track condition is, I have only been there once. We asked how much a nitro airplane kit was and left. Supposedly we are supposed to go on Friday to check it out. Maybe if i get lucky the people might let me run in the stock class with the 21T, it will probly be slower than everybody anyway. I also need to pick up a pack there too cause i only have one now :). That's if we even go, my dad always says that we are going and then we never end up there. We were supposed to check out microrcdude's LHS track but we never got around to it (must be the 3hr drive).

[elecracr]

Hey micro, i didnt mean to say that you set your mesh wrong,i meant to say that your motor can sometimes slip and therefore set off the gear mesh, and that just seemed like an easy way to strip spur gears.

Im not doubting you ability to do it, im just saying that i have found gears strip when your motor slips from its position, or its set wrong in the first place.

[gene465]

I have a question maybe someone who has had the Evader BX can answer, on my BX the steering makes a ratcheting sound any ideas? Seems as though something is binding or something as it makes the sound both right and left. Anyone else have this problem? Going to have to tear into it and see what it is. Thanks when I get the chance I will have to read through this forum maybe it is already listed. Gene

[Wizardman_1]

Your steering servo is probly stripped, get new servo gears or switch another servo. While you're taking the servo out, take apart the servo saver and take the spring out. Cut half of a coil off the spring with a dremel or some cutting device and smooth out both ends of the spring. The stock setup is too stiff and strips servo gears very easily this will make it a little softer. Then just reassemble and tighten down the nut until snug.

[gene465]

Thanks Wizardman I will have to try that and see how it goes! Gene

[Wizardman_1]

No problem, how long have you had your evader for?

[gene465]

I've had it for about a year but it's only had about 4 packs through it. Just started to get back into the R/C hobby. It has made that noise since I bought it but I never did anything about it. I thought the Photon 20T was supposed to be pretty quick but my B4 smoked it with an Epic 27T and a 81/23 gearing. Would a P2K be better as I have that or a venom Fireball 21T motor. I think I will stick the 20T in one of my RC10Ts that one of my sons has it needs a better motor than what he has in it right now.

[Wizardman_1]

The stock motor is mostly a punchy motor, not much top speed. It will also be wearing out pretty soon, its a "throw away" motor. I would go for the P2K since i dont know much about the fireball, i have an Orion Rush 21T and it is more for top speed and the P2K is more torque oriented. You can also use the gearing from the B4 as a starting point because the transmission ratio is pretty much the same.

[elecracr]

A well built stock motor geared correctly can often be just as fast as a 17turn mild modified, i started out with a monster horespower stock and was very pleased with it keeping stock gearing.

[gene465]

What is the gear ratio on the BX transmission I want to gear the buggies the same.

[derrick]

it 2.66 i thank dude :D

[Wizardman_1]

Yea i think its 2.66 also i had it written down but i cant find the paper right now. If you are going to run the P2K check out these websites.

www.motortuningsecrets.com
http://members.cox.net/sdracing/

[gene465]

Thanks guys had a hard time finding the gear ratio. I replaced the Stock Duratrax servo and no more ratcheting! Guess it was defective from the factory! Steering works like a champ now!

[elecracr]

I still need to get around to replacing the servo in my evader, i changed it out to a standard futaba one, because i had it lying around and it was newer, but both of them are slow, im thinking of dropping a 625mg in there.

[Wizardman_1]

I was thinking of getting the Tower TS-65, it doesnt have the metal gears but its $10 cheaper than the 625mg, im mostly looking for more speed and it has a .16 transit time. Im still deciding on which one to get, or to get the titanium hinge pins and kingpins.

[pudder]

Speaking out of experience, it is better to spend the extra $10 and get the Hitec 625MG. I have several of these servos and have been using them trouble free for several years now. They are quick enough for racing, and they can also take more abuse than any plastic geared servo.

[elecracr]

Yea, i would definately spend the extra 10 bucks for metal gears. One day i was in my hobby shop and needed a servo, and was gunna buy a 625, but they didnt have one in stock so i just bought a cheap standard servo, it does fine, but i wish i had waited and bought the better one. I still have to get my differential gear!!!!!! Then i will hopefully be running good.

[elecracr]

Well, today it was raining and i was bored, and noticed that my chassis has alot of flex. I then went to find a piece of aluminum. I cut it to the length of the car and ran it all along the bottom its about 2 inches wide and makes like a nice skid plate in the back. THe stiffness was dramatically increased and not too much weight was added. I think i may try dremeling out my chassis soon and that would make it have little or no weight difference from stock, but much better stiffness.

[elecracr]

Well, i finally got the money to go get my differential gear.... So hopefully if all goes well i will come back later tonight with an update on the skid plate and how my car is running.... I havent had it running properly let alone hardly at all this summer.... So hopefully this will do the trick.

[Wizardman_1]

I havent had that much time to drive my evader cause of the heat outside. Getting a rear tranny brace would probly have the same effect as your skid plate.

[elecracr]

Yea, the tranny brace prolly would do the same thing.... But im poor and have no money! Im gunna run my can despite the heat.... Il just gear down and go for it.

[elecracr]

Well im back up and running, iv ran 6 packs through it in 2 days... So everything seems to be holding up. I have been launching off of this tree at full speed down into my ditch, it has been dropping probobly 10 straight feet to the ground with nothing broken yet.

[Wizardman_1]

From a tree? do you have a ramp up there or something.

[elecracr]

No, haha, its a big oak tree and one day i was driving and accidentally hit it, and it launched, breaks lots of parts, but really fun... Il try to get some action pics or crappy video here in the next few days.

[Wizardman_1]

elecracr: could you say which one of these boats is best for a beginner in a river? Im leaning toward the tower boat and ill probly put a tamiya sport tuned motor in there.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTE6**&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEFJ2**&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCRM2**&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJD87**&P=0

[elecracr]

Hey wizardman, does the boat need to be from tower? Because if not i would recomend looking at the cen line of rtr boats at offshoreelectrics.com... They run around 170-190 for the 775 motor, but it is definately worth it. I have an aqua jet running two batteries in the boat, it comes with the adapter to run two packs, and the stock boat runs about 20 miles per hour. Where as the boats you listed are running 12-15 mostly around 12. If the cen boats are out of your price range, i would recomend you stay away from the traxxas blast, just a poor design, and also the kyosho is a heavy hull and is underpowered. Out of the two that are left they are very similar, just slight differences, just personal preference. But if i were you i would save the extra 50 dollars or so, on 12 cells these boats are a blast, not to mention i have been running the same motor in it since christmas, no brushes to change and no coms to cut, just spray it out and lube the bearing every once in a while.

[Wizardman_1]

I think ill go for the Hobbico Hammer since it has a 550 motor, maybe i can put in a motor designed for an emaxx and put some extra cells in there as well. Couldnt you also customize the mount to put in a bigger motor later if you wanted to. Tower would be better since most of the other places i look are not mail order. All summer i have been looking at the river and it seems a good choice, especially when the evader in down. One problem i do see is the wake from the boats out here tipping it over and maybe the boat drifting towards the dam out there. I pretty much have to take it easy on the turns and slow down when a wake comes in, drive kinda close to the shore too. Do you know of any good sites with a lot of driving tips? thanks

[elecracr]

Im pretty sure offshoreelectrics.com has mail orders... If your worried about tipping, you may want to look into the reef racer or the zig zag racer because they are self-rightable. The cen wave shark is also self rightable after a few mods. I have used Offshoreelectrics.com for all my batteries and boat parts in the past year and they are excellent, fast shipping and great customer service. And, also you may want to look on the forum at offshoreelectrics.com, because they have lots of tips and such, i am elecracr there too.

On an evader note, the tree caused my downfall today, haha, i broke a ball cup, bent a shock shaft, stripped the ball end on the shock, and lost the spring retainer for the shock that got destroyed. I also broke a front hub carrier. But, i had a spare hub carrier, spring retainer, and the ball end just got cracked, so i super glued it. Im going to see if my shaft is bent too bad for operation tommorow and try to fix that.
Yea, i was going full speed which is probobly about 25-30mph, and hit the tree, about 10 feet in the air, and landed half upside down and flipped a few times and died.

[elecracr]

O yea, i also bent a kingpin. Haha... tommorow i will assess the damage and see if i can get it back running without a trip to the hobby shop, at worst i think i may need some shock shafts and rod ends. I think i have an extra ball cup somewhere.

[Wizardman_1]

Im not that worried about tipping, its just that the wake gets pretty big when some boats get too close to the coast. Sounds like you landed all on one corner, if you're getting shafts dont get the "titanium" ones there only coated not all titanium, most of the time you can get the bend out with a hammer. If you have extra o-rings i would put some on all of the ball studs. The kingpins shouldnt be that big of a problem, you should really set up a jump instead of hitting the tree cause if you dont get the right angle there goes another set of parts.

[elecracr]

Yea, i looked at my damage today, it really wasnt that bad. The bend in the shaft was bad but i got it out, and put new orings and oil in. The kingpin i bent back, and the ball stud was fixed with super glue, and its holding up fine after a few packs, it really wasnt cracked that bad. So without spending any money i fixed it.

Yea, im aborting the tree jump eventhough it is soo much fun... Haha.

Im thinking of just making a movie of the tree destruction, pretty much all crashes, but first i have to get a better video camera.

Ohh, and wizardman, how much are you looking to spend on a boat?

[Wizardman_1]

I dunno i only have about $50 right now and the way i am i might just end up spending it on the evader or something else. If i do get it ill probly try to ask my parents to get it for me but since the walk down there is kinda long, especially when itll be cold out pretty soon.

[Knightsquad]

Hey guys! I'm new out here and need some help if you have a min.
Me and my two kids 9 and 11 yo. just decided we are going to take down their halfpipe and build a dirt R/C track for electric buggies in the back yard. I've talked to some of the guys at the Track Building Forum also.
I was thinking of 1/10 scale and seen some stuff about 1/18 and thought how much more track I can get into the yard if I went this size instead.
When you guys talk about mini's are you talking 1/18?
From reading through this forum you guys seem to be having a blast with them! With all the tweaking and changing out of parts you guys seem to be doing real good!
My questions are.
Do you think the mini's would be a good choice for me and the kids on a back-yard track? Are they fast enough? The yard is 40" X 60'
What company and what particular electric buggy would you recommend for a first car? How much are they? Any links to some sites to purchase from?
I'm definitley a "tweaker" but don't know enough about them yet so I'm looking for a decent "stock" setup we can have a ball with while we learn about all these mods that can be done.
AND how wide of a track can be built using mini's?

Sorry for such a long post guys but, well you know how it was in the beginning! LOL
Heres the halfpipe we are trying to get rid of, I'd hate to have to take it down myself, that's why I'm giving it away. LOL
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003...halfpipeweb.jpg
Thanks guys
Pete

[elecracr]

Uhh.... i dont talk about mini's haha. I would suggest the evader bx, thus the forum...

Wizardman, i suggest you spend 50 dollars on the evader and wait and save up for when it gets warm again outside for the boat, boating in the cold is no fun.

[Wizardman_1]

elecracr: I think he is talking about my mini track that i have in my yard? Ill save up later then, thanks for all the boat advice.

Knightsquad: Welcome to the forums! Um i think the guys at the Track Making Forum were talking about mini tracks, since most tracks are around 8' ish lanes. My front yard is 40'x40' with about 4' lanes. Two 1/10th buggies could go around in side by side and the turns have gotten wider due to the roost of my buggy. If you are talking about mini cars i do not suggest them unless it is a Tamiya TLT-1 for crawling, they take too much money just to get it to perform like a 1/10th. As for suggesting a buggy i would also recommend the evader bx.

[Wizardman_1]

If you want some pics of my track just ask. All you have to do is use a hoe to take the grass or whatever is on there off to leave only dirt, make the lane width of your choice. When the cars start running on there it will get better and the turns will develop berms. Here are some links to what you need to get the evader bx running, this is the stuff i use.

Buggy: Evader BX RTR
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXJ48**&P=ML
Pinion: stock one is kinda weird
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX21&P=7
Battery: Epic 3000 NiMH Sport
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=lxerb5&FVPROFIL=++
Charger: DuraTrax Piranha Digital
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=7

Optional: but make big difference
Shock oil 30wt
Rear Sway Bar
Better Front and Rear Tires
Servo Saver modification
B3 front rims with mods, B3 rear wide rims.
check out this site: http://members.cox.net/sdracing/

[Knightsquad]

Wizard!!!
Thanks so much for the info. YES I would love to see your track pics.
My yard is 40' X 70'. Do you think I can have a decent track in that area?
What width track do you think I can get away with? I finally decided to stay with the 1/10th scale, seems to be the most popular. I almost went with 1/18 scale so I can have a better size track but like I said 1/10 seems to be magic size.
As far as Mods. we will probably wait a while untill we learn more but that Pinion sounds important. What about the 30 wt. oil you mention?
Do the shocks come pre filled with a different wt.?

I have to get someone to come and get this halfpipe out of my yard then we can start designing the track but 8'-10' wide track seems so big!!

Anyway Thanks for all the info so far, you've been a BIG help and if you can answer those questions above for me I'd appreciate it.
Don't forget the pics!!! LOL
Thanks buddy
Pete

[elecracr]

Hey, ok, how many cars are you going to be running, i would say a good 1and a half to two feet per car for width. Also, i highly recomend a new pinion gear like wizardman suggested. THe oil that comes in the shocks is suppositly i think 30wt, but is almost as thin as water. I suggest using associated 30wt shock oil. Also, you will most definately want some new tires after a while, the stock ones wear down quick, depending on if you are all of road or occationally onroad we can suggest a good tire for you. Also, you may want to pick up some spare brushes for the stock motor if you are running a few cars, as the stock brushes run out quick, any trinity standup brush will work i believe. If you have any questions let us know, we are more than willing to help.

[Wizardman_1]

Well in the manual it says its filled with 20wt but still its like water. I forgot that the motor is pretty much a "throw away" after a few runs. I would highly recommend the options that i suggested, the sway bar helps if you are going to have a tight track, shock oil is a must, stock tires wear quick, stock rims crack on hard landings from jumps, servo saver too stiff and strips servo gears. Ill take some pics tomorrow as its dark already here, if i could have your email i could give you better quality pics or i can just post them here. You will definantly have a decent track, the lanes i dunno, 4ft for more lenght, 5ft for more cars? I prefer a narrower track as it looks more life like to me.

[Knightsquad]

Elec, Wizard,

THANKS GUYS! Just the info I've been looking for!!!
Wiz, my email is knightsquad@bellsouth.net I have dsl so big pics are OK.
Do you guys have any links where I can get the sway bar, oil and other stuff you mention? I believe Wizard left a link for the pinion on another thread but what about rims and tires?
I'll keep you guys informed with pics and all as I progress with this roject.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-8/361947/halfpipeweb.jpg

THANKS GUYS!!!
Pete
ps-how do I add pics right to this message? Couldn't find out how. LOL

[elecracr]

Ok, im gunna give you the links to towerhobbies.com , you can find them other places but tower has great prices and shipping.

The rims it all depends on what color you want to go... evader wheels (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=evader+bx+rims&FVPROFIL=++) these rims are all the same as stock though, they will stick crack and such....
Wizardman can correct me if im wrong, but i think b3 wheels will fit.

shock oil (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3305&P=ML) (this bottle is enough to refill all shocks about two times, with little to spare, if your real messy you may not be able to do it twice, if you need help on how to do this one of us can explain)

Here is the rear sway bar (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMW2&P=7) the front isnt really needed i dont think.

For tires, many of these work well, tires (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=pro+line+buggy+tires&FVPROFIL=++)

I would suggest getting a pack of pinions like this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX34&P=ML)

And with the stock esc i would suggest motors like this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVJ1&P=7) after the stock ones wear out. These will be fine on the stock speedo and still be fast. These require laydown brushes.

Any more questions just let us know, we ussually are on a few times a day to answer andy new questions.

[Wizardman_1]

Elecracr: heres what i have to work with, well a whole lot more but then i risk loosing the boat.

to post pics go to post reply (not the quick reply box) scroll down a bit then it says "manage attachments" click on it, go to browse and then pick the pic you want, you can only use up 61kb

[Knightsquad]

Elecracr,

Man you guys are AW-RIGHT! Imagine trying to learn all this on your own through trial and error? That's why I love the Net. Thanks again guys.
Yeh All those extra parts look very good for sure! hey, that pinion gear. I notice there are different sizes in that pack you showed me. Are they for different speeds/different tracks etc,etc? Does that pinion gear go on the motor shaft or the other side?

Wizard !
Thanks for the pics bro! They came out great! Yeh that looks like a nice track man! And how big of a space does that occupy?
About adding pics as attachments. Some pictures actually show right up in the body of the text right here without having to click on em'
Do you know how to do that also?

Thanks again guys, Me and my kids really appreciate this. It'll save us so much aggravation later down the road for sure.
Hey, if you guys know anyone who rides motorcycles send em my way! I think Google moved me last month and sales have dropped off terribly.
Guess I need to do some tweaking on the site some to get rated better next month! LOL
http://www.knightsquadleather.com
Talk to guys tonight probably. Where you guys from by the way?
Florida here! LOL

[elecracr]

Im from virginia beach, virginia. Also, the stock pinion is a 23 tooth, but a crappy one. THis is the gear that goes on the motor shaft. The bigger the gear, the hotter the motor and the fast it is, but you loose torque. The smaller the pinion the slightly lower speeds, but colder motor and more torque.

Wizardman, that looks like more than enough area to run, i run in alot less than that. Is that about as rough as it gets?

[Knightsquad]

Elec, Wizard

Guys, I just got a reply from some guy in the Mini-T room and I'm kind of interested in these little buggers! They're fast, small, and have all the mods that the 1/10 have and imagine how big of a track I can build using these?!

Have either of you ever driven these Mini-Ts? They do look pretty cool you have to agree but I don't know, do you.

OH my head is spinning now! LOL What to do.

What do you guys think? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ha Ha

Pete

[Wizardman_1]

Knightsquad: I ride motos but only in dirt, all you have to do is log in for you to see the pictures with the text. I already posted in but the track is about 40' x 40', very dusty since i live here in the desert of washington state. The track is very very nice when you water it down good, sooo much traction. DO NOT GET A MINI-T, VERY BIG MONEY PIT.

Elec: oh hell no you should see it when its windy out here man there are about 1.5-2.5ft waves, the wakes from the boat are about 1.5ft or so.

[Wizardman_1]

Graphite parts are in stock at tower!

[elecracr]

Yep, but newbies need to learn to drive before they go for graphite, or else they are gunna break crap loads of parts. I think i may do the graphite conversion after a while. And have the plastics as spares.

[pudder]

I've been in Niagra Falls for the last week... but I'm back now.

[elecracr]

Ok..........





Haha, jk pudder, you are a great help around here.

[Knightsquad]

Wiz!- Elec.

Yes I agree you guys are a BIG help around here! Thanks!

I was just talking with my son when the subject came up about run times.
What is the average run times with the different batteries available?

The LHS owner said 5 min. Is this correct?

Pete

[pudder]

You should get atleast 5 minutes of runtime with a 1500 and stock motor. I run with 3300's and a stock motor and get upwards of 10 mins runtime with my B3 FT deppending on how hard I'm driving the vehicle.

[elecracr]

Many places such as promatch and offshoreelectrics sell GP3300 batteries for under 40 dollars, you should go this route so you dont have to later. Budget batteries give you less speed and performance with the same setup. With GP3300's i would think you should get between 12-15 minutes with a stock setup. You will still have to get a NiMh battery charger which will run 50 dollars for a cheap one, or 100 dollars for a super brain 969 which will charge two batteries at once, which will probobly be what you want. I would suggest probobly two batteries per car, so you can run more often. And atleast one dual battery charger or two single chargers. You can go for some cheaper batteries at first, but il guarantee that they dont last near as long as my GP's in runtime or durability. I got cheap batteries at first just to get me by untill i had more money, now that i have good batteries im never going back to budget packs.

[Knightsquad]

Are you saying that you can use NiMh OR Nicads?
What are regular budget bateries? Ni or nicad?

Hmm this is geting more expensive! LOL
I'll have to sell my R/c jet for some extra cash'

[pudder]

I would advise to go with NIMH packs, they seem to be more 'durable' than NICD's, and deliver better performance. With the Super Brain 969, and most chargers today, you are able to charge both types of batteries. It will cost you more to get the better batteries, but you will thank yourself in the end.

[elecracr]

Yep, i would suggest some good GP packs out of the gate. THey are the ticket, you wont have to buy new batteries for years if you treat them correctly. Cheapo packs will give you maybe 3 months of good use, then die. Gp3300's are NiMh batteries.

[pudder]

I got some of the first GP3300's out there over a year and a half ago, and I still use them for racing competitively.

[Wizardman_1]

Im gonna get graphite front brace, and the tranny brace, only like 3 bucks on tower, it was mostly a shout out. The cheapest NiMH packs are the Epic sport 3000 $18.99 on tower, they are all right but if you have the cash i would recommend the GP3300 or Sanyo 3600. I get my runtime about 20ish minutes, i mostly drive on my track or jump it a lot I use an Epic 3000 NiMH pack.

[pudder]

I know of quite a few people at my track who have used the Epic 3000's. They said they are alright, but the performance is not good enough for racing.

[elecracr]

Dont get sanyo3600's, more expensive and lower voltage. The epics are probobly a good buy, my my GP's are great, as good as the day i bought them.

[Knightsquad]

Thanks guys!

I guess this one is a no brainer!
Ill get some GP3300's.
Pete

[elecracr]

Good thinking, you may want to look at offshoreelectrics.com and i think promatchracing.com or promatch.com, not sure which one. Have you decided which charger you want yet?

[Knightsquad]

Guys,

Another quick question. The car on this page:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0161p?&I=LZ1711**
What is meant by PREBUILT? I thought I read somewhere that it has a lot of building still yet to do on it doesn't it?

Never mind I found it! Sorry LOL
Pete

[Knightsquad]

Elec,

No I haven't decided on a charger yet.
I'll let you know what I settle on but I am going to get the 3300,s for sure.

Pete

[Wizardman_1]

Prebuilt means that it does not come with radio/reciever and you have to put the servo in yourself, no big. You already did the combo thing and radio on the link you posted so its all good. On other prebuilt cars they are unassembled but the evader you only need to do the servo thing. I would suggest the DuraTrax Piranha Digital, i posted a link in an earlier post. At $50 it is the cheapest best charger, to charge faster you should get a dc power supply such as a sealed lead acid battery. I said the 3600 if you want more run time.

[TurboVeeIIMod]

Hey guys,

I just bought an Evader BX Pro version. I hear alot of praise about the Evader X, but the Pro isn't working right. It may just be me, but it just isn't performing well enough.
For one, even with the 15 turn motor, it's not going as fast as some electric cars I've seen with a 20 turn. Also, the steering is a little bit on the week side, and even with the Dual Rates at 100%, it's not very manueverable.
The steering part I can look over, seeing as I'm going to run this off-road mostly (BTW quick little question; if I run the buggy in a high dirt area, is there a chance of the electronics being damaged?). However, the speed is very poor. I think it has to do with alot of RPM but not enough torque. I may be wrong though.
Is there any way to solve this problem? The 15-turn motor (Team Orion Havok) doesn't look too bad, so it must be something else. By the way, I've had experience with electric on-road cars, but never with buggies, and this is leaving a bad taste in my mouth

[Knightsquad]

Guys,

Ok I think I'm going to order tonight!

1 Evader BX with radio.
1 Super brain 969 Charger
1 Battery, which web site for the GP 3300's? Are these 6 or 7 cell?
I get the $10.00 discount with this months Tower flyer so that's cool.
Pete
I'll order the other two cars later.
I think I have someone to take this HalfPipe!!!! Yeh man!!!!!!!!!!!!! LO

[Knightsquad]

Are these the batteries I want on this page? Gold PeakGP 3300 Sub 'C"
7 or 8 cell?
And what configuration and connector? A brick with Tamiya coniguration?
http://offshoreelectrics.com/MainPage.htm

[Knightsquad]

Or which ones from this page?
http://www.promatchracing.com/gp3300.htm
Not the $70.00 ones though! LOL

Pete

[elecracr]

At offshoreelectrics you are gunna want 6 or 7 cells, there 7 cells wont fit with the stock hold down though, so you may want to go with 6 cells. Go with configuration A, i have those same exact batteries configured that way and they are awesome!

[elecracr]

O yea, about whomever posted about the Bx pro being slow, you may want to drop the pinion a few teeth to get more low end "grunt". Can ou touch that motor for 5 seconds after one whole battery pack?
The stock steering is a little weak untill you replace the stearing servo with a higher quality one.

[microrcdude]

a high-speed metal gear servo will last anyone a while, and its a MUST if you are going to race this car.

[2.0dohc]

for the steering, make sure that the top plate(the plate over the servo, that also holds the bellcrank posts in place) is not to tight, if you loosen the screws just a little bit it will free up the steering alot.

a 7 cell battery will fit, aslong as its configuration is a standard 6 cell but with an extra cell across the end cells, should look like an U from above but all in one layer, if that makes since

[Knightsquad]

2.Od, elecracr

Ok I know what you mean. Cool, going to order this stuff tonight!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys!!! I really appreciate it!

Pete

[Wizardman_1]

Turbo Vee, if you're used to onroad no wonder it seems slow. The electronics wont break unless you have a major crash.

[elecracr]

If you break the electronics from a wreck, congratulations, because that would have been an extreme crash, i have fallen from over 10 feet on jumps and falls off of roofs and such, and the esc has fallen out of the car, held on only by the wires, and it still works flawlessly. My stock esc no longer works because i ran it for 4 months on 12 cells with a 700 size motor in my boat, the funny thing is, the only reason it broke was because it got wet. I do not recomend 12 cells with that esc on a 540 motor though, but if anyone is tempted, make sure you get a video.

[Knightsquad]

Man Oh Man!
I can't believe it's gone! The Halfpipe in the yard. Took us 8 hard, hot hours but it's finally gone so Phase One is complete! LOL
I put the halfpipe in the paper for FREE and the guy who got it actually gave us $160.00 so now we have enough for two buggies. I'll buy my other son his and he can pay me back I guess.

Now we can start with Phase Two, some track design.
Tomorrow we'll go outside and putz around in the yard and see what kind of ideas we come up with.

I'll keep you posted!

Pete

[elecracr]

Awesome, make sure you get different channel buggies though, or else they wont run together because they will interfere. Its always great to have someone else to play around with, my cousin has a XXlosi buggy and we race down in nags head when we spend thanksgiving together. At first he always won, last year i brought my 12 turn and Sanyo 2400's and beat him, but everytime i beat him he comes back with something better. Haha

[Knightsquad]

Elec,

Yeh that sounds like fun! Me and my two kids are going to get different channels of course but it looks like the Evader only comes in 6 different channels right? If that is the case then IF 3 other kids on the block get some buggies SOMEONE will wind up on the same channel and then whoever is on his channel will NEVER be able to race against him right?

Seems like there should be more channels.
What do you think?
Pete
OH YEH! Elec. In another post you mentioned about telling me how to change out that oul in the shocks. I did order a tube of that oil like you said.
Do I just follow the instructions in the manual? I briefly read it when I downloaded the PDF Evader manual. Sounds pretty straight foward.

Thanks buddy
Pete

[Knightsquad]

Battery Charger!!

How long does it take to charge a GP3300 with a Super Brain 969?

Or would someone recommend a different charger? I need at least 1 of my chargers to be a dual, the other could be a single or should I go with a single charger for each one of us?

Sorry for so many questions guys but I'm at that ordering stage and want to get this stuff ordered ! lol
Thanks

Pete

[elecracr]

Ok, if you have more than 6 evaders racing, you are going to need to have atleast one person buy a fm radio, this opens up many many more options. Ok, the super brain 969 looks like a great charger, i have the cheaper 959 and like it, but the 969 is supposed to fix the problems that the 959 had, and be a dual charger, i also have a 50 dollar duratrax charger. It will probobly take anywhere from 40minutes to an hour depending on your charge rate, i probobly take 45 minutes or so. The batteries should be warm when taken off the charger.
As for changing the oil, its just as it says in the book, just take your time, make sure you move the piston up and down to get air out, and you will have nicely rebuilt shocks.

[guver]

Hey Knightsquad, If you go to radio shack they have 6 sets of crystals for like 15-20 bucks. The nice thing is they are inbetween all the evaders on 27 mhz (total of 12 different channells). If you get the ones with 75 mhz then there are 30 different channels available. I'm thinking that am and fm will still interfere with each other if on the same channel??????? Don't know for sure....

[guver]

Battery Charger!!

How long does it take to charge a GP3300 with a Super Brain 969?

Or would someone recommend a different charger? I need at least 1 of my chargers to be a dual, the other could be a single or should I go with a single charger for each one of us?

Sorry for so many questions guys but I'm at that ordering stage and want to get this stuff ordered ! lol
Thanks

PeteIt should take about 45 minutes to deliver 3300 mah at 4.5 amps. When chargeing 2 batts at once with the 969, they say to charge at max 5 amps with ac power so it would take about 80 minutes to do 2 .

[Knightsquad]

guver,Elec,Wiz

Cool, I'll have to check into the Radio Shack thing, that sounds great!
OK, my son and I figured out a track and laid it out. We edged the sides and are going to spray Round-Up now to kill off some grass.

Here is a picture(actually two I had to put together) so the perspective may look off but I think you can get the idea. What do you think?
I realize the Palm tree is smack in the middle of the track but I did that on purpose. This way you can choose which way you may want to go to overcome your opponet. The track is wider at this point just for that reason.
I will have the tree surrounded with some kind of soft foam so we don't wreck our buggies, might be fun, we'll see.

I found a Super Brain on Ebay for $75.00. The guy said it's only been used 4 times and his feedback is good so let's hope it's ok.
Maybe I'll get those batteries tonight also.
And a picture odf the OLD halfpipe!
Pete

[elecracr]

Looks good, yea, you may just want to pick up an extra set of crystals. Ebay is a great place to get good deals, but also a great place to get ripped off. If the feedback is good and it looks good, go for it, im sure its fine. Try and get 2 batteries for each car, so you can run alot more often. Also, let the batteries cool all the way before you charge them. They can be charged 3 or so times a day, then on the forth run you will lose runtime. If you cant buy two batteries per car, still get the good ones, 1 good battery is better than 2 bad ones.

[Knightsquad]

Elec,
Thanks buddy! Yeh right now I can only get one pack per car.
3 cars= 480
1 charger (double) = 100
3 3300 batts= 120
single charger= 40

WHEW!!!!!!!!!!! Adding up quick ! LOL

It'll be fun though I'm sure.

All right, I'll talk to you later. Thanks again

Pete

[elecracr]

Alright, that sounds good, the good thing about these cars is the plastic replacement parts are cheap if you break them. Also, you can upgrade slowly, you sshould make your children do all the chores around the house, im 16 and have no job, but i can mannage with little money from cutting lawns.

[Knightsquad]

Just got an email from OffShore Electrics.
They are asking if I can use stick configuration instead of brick, they can send today, otherwise I have to wait a while.

http://offshoreelectrics.com/MainPage.htm

I'm not sure what to tell them! LOL Can I use stick?

Pete

[elecracr]

Their stick configuration for 6 cell is B i believe. They solder their stick packs end to end so that will be fine. Tell him that 6 cell stick configuration is fine. The side by sides use battery bars, but that is ussually better than stick, because cheap stick packs use thin strips of metal spot welded on, but these are end to end soldered so these will be great.

[Knightsquad]

Elec,

I was wondering about lenght. Will they be to long soldered end to end?

Pete

[Knightsquad]

Elec,

I couldn't edit the above post.

I just laid out 6 AAs in a brick config. and also laid out 6 in a stick config. and the stick is way longer. A whole battery and a 1/4 longer so I don't want to trust it, what do you think? Looks very long bro!
Pete

[guver]

A 6 cell sub c pack is about the same size regardless of configuration. SxS packs are maybe easier for most people to build with a regular solder iron, and easier to service.

[guver]

If you're getting evaders then you can use up to 7 cells in either configuration.

[elecracr]

Ok knight, you can use either configuration, trust me, i have a pair of stick packs. YOu could get 7cells but then you would have to get them custom made for the battery strap, so i just suggest 6 cells.

[guver]

7 cells will fit in there flat , either in stick configuration or side by side . Hump packs will not fit.

[Knightsquad]

Guver,Elec,

Thanks for the info guys! I emailed Steve at Offshore and told him to send which ever configuration he has available first.
Well we can see the grass starting to turn yellow a little bit where we sprayed with Round-up to kill it so I guess it's just a waiting game for now.
In the mean time we're hoping to get at least one car on Friday from Tower and maybe even the other two which we ordered from the local LHS.

Only problem now is this damn Hurricane! It's coming DIRECTLY at us as of this minute so we're hoping it does it's usual turn to the North. I mean it's coming straight at our town here in Indian River County so say a quick prayer that we all have houses standing after this weekend!
Man this sucks.

Ok guys, I'll talk to you all later or tomorrow!
Pete (Knight)

[elecracr]

You may want to get a few heavy duty rakes and let thos kids start paying off for those cars by raking up grass!

[microrcdude]

You may want to get a few heavy duty rakes and let thos kids start paying off for those cars by raking up grass!Wierd, i was gonna say the same thing

[Knightsquad]

Oh yeh, I'm going to make them earn those cars for sure!
They are going to start right now by helping me board up this house LOL

Pete

[elecracr]

haha.

[microrcdude]

LOL. stupid hurricane!

[elecracr]

Yea, i hate hurricanes, when isabel hit virginia earlier this year an 85 foot oak tree hit our house, messed up sunroom, 2 bathrooms, master bedroom water damage, back half of house roof damage. A huge mess, we did the repairs except for the roof ourselves and we are finally done!

[Wizardman_1]

Ive been gone for a while my internet has been down, the company we get it from was replacing their equipment.

Knightsquad, i would run the top right of the track a little closer to the fence so you can get a longer 2nd straight away. I wouldnt run the track with a tree in the middle, the tree i have isnt even on the track and sometimes i hit it.

You do not need to make a custom made battery pack for 7 cells, you just need it as a flat pack and to take out the foam in the back and it will fit.

[microrcdude]

are you sure you only hit the tree "sometimes"? LOL

[elecracr]

Uhh, unless im mistaken, my gp3300's have to be jammed to get under that hump, il edit if they can fit, but GP3300's are slighly bigger than previous rc car cells.

[microrcdude]

GP3300s are huge comaired to 3000's though.

[elecracr]

Yea, thats why im saying i wouldnt want to jam my expensive battery down under that plastic, the GP's are really tight, it can happen, but it is really tight, wouldnt even say that it fits, if you ran it like that it would probobly rip the shrink wrapping.

[microrcdude]

jam it under what?

[elecracr]

THey keep saying that the 7 cell flat configurations fit, but GP3300's are really tight when pushed under where the foam used to be.

[Wizardman_1]

Today i was running my buggy and i decided to take off the gear cover and man was there a lot of dust in there, would a gasket sealant work to get it completely closed from dirt and little rocks?

[pudder]

It might, but you wouldnt want to seal it down so you cant get it off easy for motor cleaning and such.

[guver]

Are you sure it wasn't material from the pads and discs? I get alot of debris from the clutch itself, but is mostly black/grey shavings/material.

[elecracr]

Id say it was debris from all the gears, and clutch as guver said.

[Newbeme]

Since we are talking about gear covers, has anyone found an alternative gear cover that holds up better than the clear stock one? Thanks.

[elecracr]

I think rpm sells some nice gear covers. Not sure which ones fit though.

[guver]

I would like one to fit a 90 tooth gear, but never found one.

[Wizardman_1]

Im sure it was dirt and little rocks cause when i took of a cover, a litte poof of dust appeared. The look of it was dirt, not much of gear shavings and such. What if you put some sealant around the edges of the motor mount, pressed the cover on there to make a mold, take it back off, making a sort of mold only sticking on the motor mount side so it could still be accesible and protect against dirt and such.

[microrcdude]

not sure, but the XX gear covers might fit. Keep in mind that could be motor dust.

[elecracr]

You could uses silicon sealant then reseal it every time you do it, or try and make a mold that sits on the motor mount.

[guver]

I think I put a tiny bead of clear on one gear cover and let it dry without putting it on and so it made kinda flexible seal that stayed with the gear cover.

[elecracr]

That sounds like a good idea

[microrcdude]

did it work? i might do that on my B3

[guver]

Yup, it worked ok, but to me it's not worth it cuz I really don't get any dust in there anymore. That one has long been broken and gone.

[Knightsquad]

MAN OH MAN!!!! What a trip! Well we survived the Hurricane but are still without power! Man this sucks. We took a direct hit guys, not to bad really though. Lost some shingles and a few pieces of the ridge vent so we got a few water stains up on some of the ceilings but all in all it isn't to bad except without power it's kind of like camping in Florida withour A/C!

I went to Home Depot yesterday and got a generator and I have this little window A/C unit that I put in the kids room so that makes it nice and cold at night for sleeping anyway.

Well we cleaned up the yard and while at Home Depot I picked up 200 irrigation flags and marked out the whole track. Looks awesome! I'll take some more pics when everything gets back to normal.

The post office delivered my three GP3300s yesterday and my son is so happy. I also got the Super Brain 969 and I (think) it 's working all right, I'm not sure.
Without power I was hooked up to the car battery for charging so maybe this is the problem. When I hooked up the battery, first off, it only showed 5. something volts.
When I charged the Mah starting rising but stopped at like 1800. Didn't make it to 3300. I tried all three and same thing! So I got out my $150.00 multimeter but it showed 8.something volts so I think the charger isn't reading the batteries correctly.

Anyway a couple of minutes agao I turned on the generator to power up all my a/c outlets and said let's try charging with a/c current instead. I hooked up the battery and it showed 8.something volts! Hmm maybe it needs more current to work correctly?
I'm going to see if the mah goes higher this time. I'm not really sure if I'm using the charger correctly yet either. I'm pretty sure I am but we'll see soon.

If anyone has this charger maybe you can give me some tips and what you set yours at as far as Peak Threshold setting and charge rate. Instructions say to charge NEW batteries slower than normal so I'm only charging at 2.0 amps, 30 mv Peak.

Thanks guys,
I'll be on later again sometime.

Pete from Hurricane State! LOL

[guver]

You can't hardly go wrong by just plugging in charger first then rc battery and push start charge. It should charge right up over 3000. on each channel too.

Also the display on the brain should read the rc car battery voltage even if the charger isn't powered up. The manual however says to do it how I described by powering charger first. Hooking to a car battery should work just fine and be able to chasrge 2 3300's at 4.5 amps each. Might take about 50 minutes if the batts were dead/MT.

[Wizardman_1]

I dont have your kind of charger but i would discharge the batteries (running your car or something) then set the settings to 3-4 amps, 4-5mv, no trickle charge. Probably they were charged already from where ever you got them from and then from storage it has been discharging while the pack was just sitting there.

[guver]

THey keep saying that the 7 cell flat configurations fit, but GP3300's are really tight when pushed under where the foam used to be.

Here is the fix I've been using. Take the trans,rearplate assembly off the back of the truck. Remove battery foam spacer. And then with a knife blade bevel/taper/round the two plastic pieces that center the back of the battery hold-down brace. If you do this, then when you put a battery all the way back it won't get torn up when you remove it.

Those two little tangs that stick down are very square/sharp and will cut almost any shrink wrap unless you spread the chassis aparty or do this mod. I find that even when running 6 or 7 cells I like the batt all way back.

[elecracr]

Yea, i have since dremmeled the chassis there, i really want to design and make a new chassis, but the problem is, all of the connections to other parts of the car are made with pins, thusfor not being able to make a chassis without special tools.

[guver]

I went thru buying motors, esc and good batts ect. Then decided that to mod chassis for 8 cells flat was the best hop-up I could do. I'm set up to tray 8 cell batts and charge them so it really fit with my routine well. This way on the evader I leave the gearing stock, the motor stock and the esc stock. All the weight is down low and it is much faster accellerating and top speed, the handling is still quite good. It turned out far better and cheaper and faster.

[Knightsquad]

Hey guys!

How is everyone? Hooray we got electricity today! Man I'm so glad.

OK I think I have the batteries figured out but they are charging up to 3700 and 3800 Mah. Is that to high? Wizard mentioned setting the charger at 4-5 mv but the instructions say to use 5x the number of cells, 5x6 cells=30mv, so that's what I'm using. And how warm do your batts. get when finished? Mine are pretty darn warm!

My son was running around the track today when all of a sudden it stopped and was making a noise. I thought the motor moved away from the gear but when I looked I saw that the dogbone/axle fell off! The little pin that holds it together fell out. I'm having my wife call Duratrax and tell them that this thing is only one week old and I don't think that should have happened already right?
What do you guys think?
I'd appreciate some more charging info if you can guys. What exactly is tha Mv setting for? I mean I read that it is for the Peak threshold but what exactly does the diferent settings for?

Ok guys, talk at ya'll later.

Pete

GUVER! Just noticed the PM buddy! Wish I would have seen it sooner.
I saved the site for sure! Thanks

[microrcdude]

the dogbones are horrible. This is a common duratrax problem.

[Wizardman_1]

I threadlocked my axles on the pin before my buggy was ever used and now i cant even get the pins out.

[guver]

knight, you should have a 90 day warranty on all parts (including axle it is a very commom problem)

On your charger the delta peak threshold is Greek or something for "change" it is the change in voltage. They call it negative delta because when a battery charges, the voltage keeps climbing and finally when it is full charged the voltage starts to change direction and come back down. The amount that the charger detects the voltage coming back down is set by you the user . If you use 5 mv per cell (which is correct for nimh) then it would be 30 mv. If you were to stare at the voltage while charging then you would see the voltage peak and then come down to whatever your setting is and the charger will stop.

[guver]

I threadlocked my axles on the pin before my buggy was ever used and now i cant even get the pins out.

Why didn't I think of that???? I'm always having the pins come out

[guver]

Most nimh batts use 3-8 mv per cell and nicads maybe 8-15 per cell.
Tiny batts use less. The reading on the 969 is the total mv for the whole battery.

[crymynal]

Update on my Evader with street tires.

I went with:

the B3 rims front and rear (front (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3456&P=7)-Rear (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ13&P=7))
Road Rage II front and rear (front (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU33&P=7) -rear (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU34&P=7) )
the motor that was suggested on this form by a couple people (motor (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBF9&P=7) )

Outcome:

OUTSTANDING-I loved the motor and traction of the street tires. However (there always has to be one), the front rims don't fit properly. If tightened down the rim will not turn freely. The front left rim spun the nut loose and shot off the car. Now I need a new nut, washer, and spacer.

Anyone know of a fix for this? I am thinking about trimming the inside of the rim some, making longer spacers, or whatever comes to mind when I work on the car.

[guver]

I had those setup my street buggy was pleased too. I think some one cut the ribbs/webbs a little on the inside of the wheels where they hit. But they only hit while turning short right?

[Wizardman_1]

Yep the inside of the wheels rub on extreme right - left turns. I posted a pic of the mod i did to them on page 20 of this forum

edit: my B3 wheels fit right, maybe you got different ones than i did? Or your lock nut for your wheel was worn out?

[elecracr]

If the lock nut doesnt go on all the way try putting it on backwards so more nylon bites the axle.

[crymynal]

The ribs do not touch the circle portion that the bearing sits in is what is rubbing. The nut fit on fine. The nylon was on past the end of the screw.

Does anyone know the replacement nuts? I have been looking for a couple days now and have not found it. The parts listing only says M as the part number.

[crymynal]

I'm stupid...10 min after posting that message, I found the part number in the manual. :o

[Knightsquad]

Hey guys!

What's happening? Well we got all three buggies, 3 GP 3300s and the Super Brain 969( now I need a another job! LOL)

Anyway everything is going to plan. Have to figure how to get all the dead grass off of the track so we are down to dirt only but we'll get it.

I just put some 30 Wt. in the front shocks on two of the cars but do you guys put it in the rears too? I read something about putting it in the fronts only, what do you guys think?

The LHS owner said he is going to try and stock some of the "important" items in his store. Items that break easily and some hop-up parts too!
Can any of you seasoned drivers maybe give us some ideas on what he should stock and why? We would really appreciate it guys. Never know, maybe his prices will be better than Tower and you all can buy from him!
We'll see how his prices are. Also include what size and kind of tires you guys are running. Motors would be good too!

Let me know about the 30 Wt though, I'm curious.

Thanks Guys!

Pete

[elecracr]

I currently have 30 wt oil in all four shocks. As for broken parts, i break a few hub carriers (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMG2) . I also break some knuckle arms. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXS1&P=7)
I also occationally break a shock tower, a arm, and rarely a bulkhead.

As for motors with the stock esc, i would suggest speed gems pro (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVC5&P=7) , which is one turn below the duratrax rated limit. I cant guarantee this wont smoke your esc, but many people run 19turn motors with the stock esc with no problem, just dont gear to high, and keep an eye on esc heat.
As for motors that are fine with stock esc no questions asked, the p2k (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRR49&P=7) and the monster horsepower stock. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDA1&P=7) The p2k will have more torque, but the monster will have more rpms, both motors will be significantly better than stock and will be fine with the stock esc.
The stock motors i listed second should be fine for what you need, as you dont need all out speed, just better speed.

[Knightsquad]

ok guys,

What oter parts break a lot? I'd like to give this hobby shop owner a good list! Thanks for your help.

My sons buggy has been acting up already. Sometimes when he stops the car and tries to go again he gets no movement from the buggy but if he gives it a little shove then it will go fine. Any ideas? I doubt it's the esc right?
The lights light up correctly and everything, I haven't any ideas why.

Thanks for any input guys! I always appreciate it.

Pete

[Newbeme]

Brushes getting worn in the motor? Motor needs cleaning? Those are basically guesses on my part.

[Wizardman_1]

The brushes wear in about 6 runs on the photon, they are throw-away motors. For me the only part i have broken on my evader is a front arm, it was my fault cause i was going full speed on cement and then tried to brake but it skidded and ran into a post. Most of the parts are under the stress tech warranty and you can get a free replacement straight from duratrax.

[elecracr]

Try getting some trinity modified motor brushes, they will last longer, and make your photon work again.

[pudder]

Yup, definitely new brushes will help. Your motor could probably use a cleaning too if the brush is getting stuck up too.

[pudder]

Yup, definitely new brushes will help. Your motor could probably use a cleaning too if the brush is getting stuck up too.

[Newbeme]

I read earlier in this thread that a Proline Deju Vu B3 body was a direct fit on the Evader, so I bought one. It is not a direcrt fit and needs alot of modification to get it to fit. After an hour of hacking away it finally fit. Here's a pic of my son's Evader painted with Spaz Stix Holographic rattle can paint.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v397/Newbeme/P1000587.jpg

[Newbeme]

Here's another pic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v397/Newbeme/P1000585.jpg

[Wizardman_1]

Looks pretty good, what rear tires are those? I have yet to find any bashing tires other than the proline dirt hawgs, ill have to get some truck rear rims and tires cause bowties waste a little too fast.

[microrcdude]

Yup, definitely new brushes will help. Your motor could probably use a cleaning too if the brush is getting stuck up too.
Pudder finnaly made a mistake!!!! oh, a kodak moment for sure! (the double post)

[Newbeme]

Wizardman, those are the Losi Smasher truck tires. Here's a link http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/smasher.htm

[Wizardman_1]

So are you running buggy rims or truck rims?

[Knightsquad]

Hey guys!

What's happening? You were right about the brushes in the motor, they're shot so we got some new ones and it's ok now.

Hey, what kind of glue do you guys use to mount new tires to the rims?
My son sure enough is almost ready for some new tires(to much street running, LOL)

Thanks again guys.
We love the trucks.

Pete