Duratrax Evader BX Buggy

[NitroRookie]

Put any info to do with this R/C under this Heading.

[pudder]

It is a buggy

I will help out here since I am helping out in the Evader ST forum.

[crashnrun]

Boy that was sure helpful to know.
I will shed a little more light on it for you guys.
It is a ROAR legal buggy that is based on the Evader ST.
It follows suit with the ST by having a (sweet) printed body
Stress Tech parts
Threaded shocks
Photon Speed motor (20) turns
Adjustable tie-rods
ESC
Futaba/Duratrax radio gear
I am sure it will be at the show in Chicago for us to see.

[tl_ke_racer]

They have the evader bx and towers but its not available till sept. looks really cool looks a lot like my old xx cr, its jsut liek teh evader st based on the xxt so this buggy is gonan be like a rtr xx buggy.

[MotorKiller]

How does the evader bx compare to the evader st

[RubyVroom]

if it's similar to the st it should be pretty good

[tl_ke_racer]

its just like the st go to tower hobbies and look at the specs on it its teh same thing with different suspesnion arms tires.

[pudder]

Buggy flavor of the truck.

Shorter arms, front shocks, tierods, axles, new shock towers, that is probably all that is different between the two, and wheels and rims.

[Prinler]

no clearance, prolly break heeps

[pudder]

Buggies usually dont have much clearance, because they are meant for the track, not bashing. :rolleyes:

[NitroRookie]

Is the Evader BX as fast as the Evader ST or faster than the Evader ST. One more thing I thought tha shorter A-arms, axle and so on make the buggy lighter and stronger than the Truck.

[pudder]

The buggy should be just as fast, possibly faster. In comparasion to a truck, they are much different, quite a bit more accel.

[p.n.e]

i think the guts of the ST and BX are pretty similar, they should be very similar in performace, plus u can convert between the two according to duratrax

[guver]

Anyone have one of these yet? I can get one for $159

[ACG]

do you think an evader bx is the best buggy for the money also what think of batt. should i get for it if i do.any info is good thanks.
:)

[pudder]

Well if you are just going to be bahing, get sport packs in the 1500-2400 range. If you will be racing right away, and racing a lot get better batts like 2400-3000's

[ACG]

do you think the evader bx is the best electric buggy out. :)

[pudder]

One of the best that is forsure. Best in my opinion, the B3 because I love AE, and soon the B4! I have no reasons to support my answer but I just like AE cars best.

[R/C_Noo_B]

ya i'm waitin until round spring to see how this buggy is for real, cuz i wanna know wut ppl think of it later too since it just came out.....if there is still good stuff being talked bout the BX, then i think i'm gonna get one around springtime

[pudder]

It will just be like the Evader except buggy flavor...

[NEED4SPEED27]

How complete is the prebuilt bx? I either wanna get the B3 or the evader Bx but I wanna build a kit so I have accomplished some thing. Which one should I get?

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[pudder]

I think it just comes as an assembled rolling chassis. Meaning no electronics but still complete with tires body, ect.

[guver]

It should come with the ESC and motor but will need receiver, transmitter, and servo.

[guver]

according to the parts list there are some differences.

front axle, ballstuds in the trans brace, front brace, front knuckle arms, pinion gear (23 tooth), front shocks, front shock tower, rear shock tower, spur gear (81 tooth) along with other things that were mentioned.

[R/C_Noo_B]

well if someone actually gets it, plz tell how it goes

[crazy1]

Will AE (associated) or losi rims fit the evader bx? I love AE to. Just don't have the cash for AE.

[pudder]

As far as I know yes. It is on AE cars that won't accept Losi rims.

[crazy1]

Thanks

[guver]

Ok I just got my evbx today, looks good, but I won't try it out cuz we have snow. Hmm. Maybe I should sell it with charger and batt and radio.

[pudder]

What?! you just got it and now want to sell it?

You can take your buggy in the snow as long as you are just on a road and not grass so it doesnt bottom out all of the time.

[guver]

If I try it out, I can't sell it as being new. I got it without radio.

[pudder]

But why would you want to sell it, why did you get it then?

[Eichbaum]

hi ,
im thinking about getting the envader BX after christmas.
I would like to know how fast it goes with the engine that is installed.... would i be able 2 replace it with a better 1 ?

[Eichbaum]

hi ,
im thinking about getting the envader BX after christmas.
I would like to know how fast it goes with the engine that is installed.... would i be able 2 replace it with a better 1 ?

[CK9887]

guver-
Why did you buy the evder BX if your just going to sell it?

Eichbaum-
Since the Evader ST goes about 21mph, i would say the BX would go around 23mph. You can swap the motors but the Stock ESC only handles down to 20turns, and the motor that comes with the BX is a 20turn motor. So i dont know if a stock motor like a P2K2 is going to be much faster than the motor that comes in the BX. You could get a different ESC that would handle hotter motors.

Im very close to buying an Evader ST.

[Eichbaum]

would i be able 2 go faster if i use a "hot" battery ??
i quess i would buy a new moter+esc

[Eichbaum]

oh and anybody know an online-shop that sells nice motors??
duratrax doesn't have any on the homepage.
Would any1 recommned towerhobbies ?

[CK9887]

Tower hobbies is a great online site.

A better battery may give you more punch, i dont think it will make a difference in top speed, I would suggest a 2400Nicd which would give you punch and long run times.

I was reading earlier in another thread that the P2K2 will be a faster motor than the one that comes in the BX, so i would try that before you spend a lot of money on a better ESC.


PS: Im now a Certifiable RC Zone Addict, this is my 1000 post:D

[NewToNitro]

If your on a budget these are good batts. You get 2 2400s for 40bucks!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBBD3&P=7

[Eichbaum]

well now im really close 2 ordering the bx-buggy, but first i would like 2 know if there is anybody who already owns 1.... well im sure there is, but i would like 2 know how they like it or if the regret buying it and would have rather bought a differnet buggy..........

[Eichbaum]

and what i have always wanted 2 ask is, i have seen alot of race vidoes,indoor-offroad,they had a part were the drivers whent fullspeed, but the camera could not film the next corner the cars took.
So i was wondering if the elec.cars have brakes like some nitro's.
Or does the ESC have something 2 do with the braking ???

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by Eichbaum
...So i was wondering if the elec.cars have brakes like some nitro's.
Or does the ESC have something 2 do with the braking ???...
Yes the ESC controls braking and reverse. Some of the better ESCs have a feature so you cant just slam it into reverse you have to come to a complete stop.

[pudder]

Originally posted by CK9887
...You can swap the motors but the Stock ESC only handles down to 20turns...


Correction: The stock ESC will handle down to a 17 turn motor.

[CK9887]

I thought tower hobbies said it will handle 20turns.

Oh well

[metalry101]

Hey~
I'm pretty sure that the controller only handles 20+ turns. If you're looking for a better ESC than stock, I've heard great things about the MTronics units. They're all completely waterproof, and they're cheap. They have one that handles 12+ turns for like 40 bux, but it doesn't have reverse. I g2g guys, cya

[pudder]

There is a lot of better ESC's out there... I know it handles down to 17 t because I have been in the Evader forum for a while, plus I have talked to many people from DuraTrax and so on. :)

[jep_rc]

Hi fellow Evader Owners,

I have a preview of couple of new Evader Hop-Ups on the Jep-R/C page. These will be available January 10th, 2003. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

LINK:
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

Jep

[cabbynate]

Do you guy think Duratrax will come out with a 4wd racing buggy RTR?? It seems these trucks and buggys are good deals and somewhat like Losi XX & XX-T's and I was thinking it would be great if they came out with a XX-4 based RTR.
What do you think???

[pudder]

I doubt they will do that. Why dont you email them though.

[cabbynate]

I might just do that.

[cabbynate]

I did it. I will let you know what they come back with.

[evaderbxbob]

hi my name is bob, i am new to this forum. i bought the bx the other day and boy do i love it. as far as compareing it with st it is definately faster but the truck seems to turn tighter. i wanted to know if someone can give me a few answers. after just a few runs on a slightly packed off road race track the rear tire treads were wearing off in small patches mostly on inside. did i get some bad tires or what?
if so can someone recommened a better tire i want similar tread but something that will hold up a little longer? i also got a question on wheels what other brands may i use? i tried a different kind at the shop and they were to deep and the tire rubbed. last question are duratrax hop-ups the only ones i can get or is there another company? part 2 do the st parts all fit?
i appreciate it if you got some answers thanks, bob

[pudder]

Buggies usually push more in turns, you need to brake more in the turns, or take them slower. About your tires, the compound DuraTrax uses is extremely soft, and crap. My Evader tires wore down to slicks on about one pack driving on roads. The tires you may want to try something like a Pro-Line Bow Tie, or Losi Step pin.

ST parts should fit, but I would reccoment asking DuraTrax if you don't get a reply to that.

[NewToNitro]

I just sold my GT and im looking for something electric to race. I really want the losi triple X T RTR but cant afford it right now. Is the Evader BX tough enough to handle a track?

[evaderbxbob]

oh its tough i was hittin the jumps full throttle and it took the abuse i gave it and thanks for the tire advice any answer on the wheels? go ahead and buy the bx you wont regret it, but order a good set of tires lol

[evaderbxbob]

do you got a bx or a st?

[pudder]

Yes, I have the ST

[evaderbxbob]

ok but you sound like the most informative one on the evader series, so i hope you can help me in the future. hey pudder when racing on dirt should i tighten the screw for the slipper or loosen it or just leave it alone? how do i know when to mess with that slipper and also how do you know when to tighten the differential, what are the signs of these two adjustments to be made? thanks again if anyone else can answer this , please feel free. i am looking to learn as much as i can about my BX

[pudder]

For offroad, generally you want to have your slipper so it slips for about 2 feet under hard acceleration. It just helps reduce the chances of loosing control under hard throttle. The differential helps with steering. In the summer when I raced on a loose dirt track, I had my diff set fairly loose because I wanted lots of steering, but now that I am racing carpet track, about the highest grip surface, I need to have my diff tigh so that I don't oversteer easily.

[evaderbxbob]

you lost me a little how does differential have to do with steering i thought that was part of the rear since its drives the rear wheels.

[pudder]

Yes, it is part of the drive train, but it helps with tuning steering. A tighter differential will have less action, be tighter, and you won't have as much steering, where as a loose diff will give you more steering.

I hope you understand this...

[evaderbxbob]

got ya thanks

[Paul La Rue]

Hello,
I'm looking for some suggestions for a charger and batties for this buggy.

I use to race over 12 years ago, and I'm just looking for something to bash around and play with a bit, since 1/10 off road is pretty much dead locally.
I figured the Evader BX is a good value.

I'm interested in a wall charger and a couple of batteries. Value and run time are my priorities.

Thanks.

[pudder]

A good budget charger is the MRC SUper Brain 959. That along with some cheap 2400 or 3000 packs, and you'll be set.

[NewToNitro]

Peak performance maxx packs are a great value! 2 2400s for 40bucks! :) I have the MRC 959 and the peak batts and so far no probs :)

[warden141]

front - Outer Diameter: 3-1/8" (77mm)
Inner Diameter: 2-1/8" (53mm)
Width: 1-1/16" (25mm)

rear - Outer Diameter: 3-1/2" (85mm)
Inner Diameter: 2-1/4" (55mm)
Width: 1-3/4" (42mm)

[guver]

Welcome Warden

What is that ? tire sizes?

[drumr racer]

How about some guys (and girls) put pictures in here with their buggies in action, or just the buggy.

Drummer Josh

[pudder]

Am I allowed to post my RC10 :p

[ASeibert2007]

Does Anyone have a Evader BX that is in good condition and would like to sell it. if you do e mail me at seiborg446@lmf.net

:D :p :p :D :rolleyes:

[evaderbxbob]

why used? just buy a new one. god, $169 rtr

[pudder]

Originally posted by ASeibert2007
Does Anyone have a Evader BX that is in good condition and would like to sell it. if you do e mail me at seiborg446@lmf.net

:D :p :p :D :rolleyes:

Try posting in the Wanted Forum

[warden141]

What is that ? tire sizes?

yes - tire size, someone asked about tires


took my evader out for the first time - well, i crashed it

now - i have to mail back 8 peices to duratrax to get them replaced

the darn thing broke like a peice of glass :(

otherwise its a decent car for the money - with the warranty

[guver]

Sorry to here about crash, must have been a doozy.

I have a tree with over 100 parts on it from breakages. lol

[evaderbxbob]

boy i had my first bad experience with my bx. let me know if this has happenned to anyone else. i went to the local track yesterday had 6 fully charged batteries, ready to have some fun practicing the course. after the first pack my car started acting weird. any time i stopped the throttle the thing would'nt move. iwent up a gave it a tap and off it went , but i knew something was wrong cuz it was running at maybe 50% throttle. could not understand i thought i forgot to charge that pack so i changed batteries and tried to go and nothing happened so i tapped it and off it went = really slow. so i looked closer and noticed the white wire on motor was loose so i fixed that and still stuck on stupid. i couldnt figure it out , it also wouldn't go in reverse either. so i came to the conclusion that it was the esc. so i read the manual and reset the esc, but that didnt fix it so i hooked up a few different packs ,with no help , i quit and headed to the lhs(onealls in mcallen texas), cuz they have a great customer manner. well the first checked the receiver,not it. then removed brushes they showed a lot of wear, replaced them,hard wired the motor , put it back together and whammo back in biz. so did this happen to anyone else? i only had my buggy a few weeks and this happened, so if you have a poor response check motor wires and brushes. last question, do i have any other problems to look forward to?

[pudder]

You probably have a hung brush.

[rcracerguy]

I see not to many people must have this car yet. I was kinda lookin at it. I have had losi cars and trucks before. I was just wondering what parts are everyone braking if any. Sounds like something in the front?... Just wondered because I know losi break plunty in stock form also. Mostly the cheap turnbuckle they come with.

[evaderbxbob]

i like mine ,but i probably don't race or bash it as hard so i didnt break anything yet. but i kinda baby it. it take it to the local track and i kringe everytime i nose dive and flip on my lid but it seems to hold up really good. and as far as buying it , if you do your reaserch you wont find another car in that price range with near the hop-ups that this buggy got. i mean bearings,esc,20 turn motor, geez the list goes on. it is pretty fast but once i get better at driving it im gonna go for a faster engine and esc, but that might be 6 months from now. i hoped that helps you! if you got questions e-mail me bprince34@yahoo.com , i've done my homework.

[evaderbxbob]

alot of losi xx parts fit

[evaderbxbob]

what gears & will make me faster than the stock? what is the fastest motor that will match-up with th esc?

[pudder]

The ESC will go down to a 17 turn motor. You can gear as high as you want but every tooth you gear up you may be sacraficing run time as well as effeciency. I reccomend getting a new motor.

[evaderbxbob]

ok pudder what do you recommend for a motor, keep in mind i only have the stock esc. i dont have the money to replace both,and iam saving for new batteries. these 1500 i got just dont cut it. i am gonna get 2 real good 3000 or 3300. so that is gonna set me back a little. but.... i got a little stash for a motor under $40.

[rcracerguy]

You can get 2 3000 packs from BYD Batteries for $40.

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by evaderbxbob
ok pudder what do you recommend for a motor, keep in mind i only have the stock esc. i dont have the money to replace both,and iam saving for new batteries. these 1500 i got just dont cut it. i am gonna get 2 real good 3000 or 3300. so that is gonna set me back a little. but.... i got a little stash for a motor under $40.

Well im not pudder and i dont have a BX but i would say a good 27T Stock motor(green machine,p2k..) would be good in the buggy. I have a p2k pro in my TC3 and I out run the stock 19T motors that come in RTR kits.

The P2k Pro seems to be the motor of choice for the HPI rally(or so ive heard). It has a nice amount of tourqe and RPM.

[NewToNitro]

Well i was going to order a sport maxx but i think for less than half the price im going to get an evader BX and P2k Pro and not have the headaches of nitro. Im probably going to order in 2 weeks. What part breaks the most? I want to stock a few extras.

[pudder]

Originally posted by evaderbxbob
ok pudder what do you recommend for a motor, keep in mind i only have the stock esc. i dont have the money to replace both,and iam saving for new batteries. these 1500 i got just dont cut it. i am gonna get 2 real good 3000 or 3300. so that is gonna set me back a little. but.... i got a little stash for a motor under $40.

If you're not going to be racing, get the Trinity Chameleon 2 Pro. It is a 19t, gives good runtime, and great speed and torque. It also has bearings in the endbell too. I have only heard great feedback about this motor, and I am picking up one tomorrow for my Traxxas Stampede.

If you are planning to start racing at a club soon, I would get a stock 27 turn motor. Some popular brands are Fantom, Reedy and Trinity. Fantom motors just take motors from other companies like Reedy, Trinity, ect and fine tune them for better performance with better brushes, springs, ect. I would have to say the most popular motor right now is the Trinity P2k 2 Pro, which gives good overall performance. THere is also the new Trinity Revenge of The Monster Pro motor, which is also supposed to be really good too. Reedy makes the MVP, which is the motor I have right now.

I like the MVP over the P2k 2 Pro, it gives great overall performance, but is under rated, for some reason the people just buy Trinity since they are so popular, I like to be different in some aspects, plus I needed a motor and QUICK so I bought the MVP from someone at the track. With my setup, I can easily keep up to people with Trinity motors and what not. I just like the Reedy MVP out of all of the motors I listed.

It is your choice though. :)

[Keyz28]

rcracerguy- have an address for BYD batts???

[guver]

http://www.batteryspace.com/

[Liquid_2]

im thinking about buying one of these :) where can i but hop ups for it?? :confused: :) :D

[evaderbxbob]

it has alot of good hop-ups on it stock. i bought some proline step pins, that was my only thing it needed , the stock tires wear out in just a few runs. if you run on asphalt you can run dirt hawgs and road rage on front. the only thing else i want add is a better esc for a lower turn motor like 12 or 14 turn, and batteries to go with it. good luck you will like it.

[pudder]

To see the hopups that DuraTrax makes, go to www.duratrax.com and under hot products bar at the top, scroll down and you will see "Evader Hopup Parts" click on that.

[Liquid_2]

wow this buggy is awsome! good for the price too!!! im gunna get the prebuilt one and use my spare radio and servo :). Alot of people at my track run buggys and stuff so i cant wait to race it :):D

[guver]

I have one for sale . It is new, but missing rx and tx.

[Liquid_2]

rx and tx? what is that?

[guver]

transmitter and receiver

[Liquid_2]

how much?? you got pics?

[guver]

Its in the buy/sell forum

[rcracerguy]

I haven't got one of these yet,but how do you guys know the speed control will take a 17 turn motor? Doesn't it say it will only take down to a 20 turn?

[pudder]

Yes it will run a 17 turn with no problems. I ran a 19t with the Sprint ESC in my pancar and it just got a little warm.

[Liquid_2]

whats the turn limit on the stock esc?

[pudder]

17turn limit on the stock esc.

[rcracerguy]

Just order my BX. I should get it next week. I'll tell you what I think of it. I have a 3300 pack on back order for it. Probily get to much run time. :-) lol

[rcracerguy]

Oh yea. Does the prebuilt onces come with painted bodys?

[pudder]

I think they do. I am not sure, check on Towers site to check, and if it doesn't tell there, contact DuraTrax, they are really fast with replies.

[losixxx213]

yes they come with a painted body, only downside, b/c the windows aren't clear.

[pudder]

I hate non clear windows!

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by pudder
I hate non clear windows!

We all do

[pudder]

I sure hope so!

[Hicountry]

I bought mine a few weeks ago. I am not very impressed with the glue job on the front tires. Over a quarter of an inch of run out. I can not get it to run smooth enough to get a better reading.

Other than that....it is a great car. I do not like the lack of traction and inpercise steering that comes with 2wds but in the grass where it has good traction it runs GREAT.

I am going to switch mine back and forth to a late model dirt track car. I want to have a buggy as well. If the dirt track thing works out I will buy another.

[rcracerguy]

I just got mine the other day. So far I realy haven't got to run it. The few things I didn't like: 1: The antenea tube was way to lose in the whole. So I ground the mount off the chassis and put a aluminum one one. That works fine. 2: The motor the spur gear aren't aligned good. I couldn't get any of the other pinon gears on. So I made a spacer to go in between the motor and the motor plate. That solved the problem. I'll see what I think of the rest of it later.

[EDMONTON]

hey everyone, I've been hibernating all winter but im back now. (was busy with work). Hey pudder hows the cold weather in manitoba?

Anyhow, I ordered a bx and it should be here in a week. Im giving duratrax a second chance at rc life. I bought one of the very first sts and had LOTS of problems with it. I heard that the new ones have their reliability problems licked by several people.
Since I race on a very tight budget (got 2 kids and 1 more on the way) its the best solution. I dont want to run sts anymorecause I took a liking to buggies cause they are quicker and more agile.
I'm getting the one without radio cause I already have it. MY st is pretty much dead and I have a lot of spare parts ( but needs too much to get in racing order, besides im using the shocks in my stampede) . Several st parts look like they will fit. The evaders are good deals and can perform well but there is critical preventetive maintenance u must do first. Please read rc actions april issue on making the evader race ready. This will get u going in the stock class. For bashing its also good advice.

[pudder]

Weather sucked for a while, but it has been above zero the last three days, which is good because I got to take out my pede, and bad because I still want to finish my snow fort...

It has also been very foggy out here too...

[MADDMAXX121]

Originally posted by rcracerguy
Just order my BX. I should get it next week. I'll tell you what I think of it. I have a 3300 pack on back order for it. Probily get to much run time. :-) lol

Your right, my brother has the bx and its madd fast! He gets about 15 to 20 minutes on 2400 batteries, by the way my neighbor has the st and the chasis on it is the same as the bx. it blows my other brothers stampede away!!

[EDMONTON]

Thanks for the info. I have a couple of st chassis, 1 of them new. It sure sounds like many of my parts will work. I should be well stocked up for the season. If its anything like the st and is dialed properly it should leave some xxx and ae racers speechless. I absolutely love that. One senior guy was telling a newbie at the track that my truck was a good beginner truck and could almost keep up with his. He didnt know it was my truck and I overheard him. I THEN PROCEEDED TO SPANK HIM. it was a very proud moment.

Keep it on all four
well two is okay also:D

[EDMONTON]

first thing im doing is putting 35 wt losi oil in all 4 shocks and go from there
cant wait
I am worried however about the color cause i ordered without a radio and there was only 1 part # and no color choice
Oh im pretty sure brake fluid will remove the paint from the windows. Just DAB it on a cloth and start from the middle, being very careful of course. Im positive it will remove the paint cause it will remove the paint from your car. Im just worried about the lexan or whatever material the body is made of. I will try on my old evader st body and reply tommorow

cheers:)

[pudder]

Just a little note on that... it is the driver that counts... I do have to admit that once dialed in, the duratrax vehicles are good.

But I switched over and got an FT T3 because the durability sucked, and I wanted something more reliable, and with a little less flex. If it weren't for those few things, I would probably still race my Evader.

[EDMONTON]

Hey pudder im still glad i never moved to Winterpeg:D

[pudder]

Hmmm... maybe if you saw our rc tracks you would change your mind... :D

[EDMONTON]

I agree pudder but im so used to wrenching on the evader that Im pretty sure ive been doing it in my sleep cause when i wake up its fixed plus I have a TON of parts. Oh and the evader is "inexpensive". better word than cheap. With the yahoos I race with, a losi or ae would be overkill. Its amazing how many people have 2 left hands:p

[EDMONTON]

probably, whenever a new track opens up here it folds within months and we have to start all over again. Calgary however has some SWEET tracks.

[orbitron]

Here in Cowtown (oh right its called the c-spot now) there are a few good tracks I think but in order to even get on the NitroExtreme one you have to have a 1/8 anything!! That's too bad if you can only afford an Evader!

[EDMONTON]

1/8 look fun but so is having $ left over in your wallet.
C-spot? thats a new one.
Still have to try that brake fluid trick
back in a bit
:D

[orbitron]

Originally posted by EDMONTON

C-spot? thats a new one.

Yeah the new hip-hop station's doing. It's been nice and warm these last few days, maybe I'll actually be able to use my truck soon.

[EDMONTON]

hey Orbitron, what rcs do u have
do u have an evader bx? (not that it matters)

I have a stampede(loaded), evader st and an evader bx on order(will be here friday, maybe, i hope)

[EDMONTON]

If there is a tri-city off-road races this year, Ill for sure try to make all of them. Calgary should be fun.

[pudder]

I think in the summer you should save up some Canuck bucks and come down to Winnipeg for the weekend races we have sometimes. ;)

[EDMONTON]

I tried the brake fluid to remove paint and let me tell you its a CHORE. First u have to start a pilot hole (scratch a section off till its cllear) and start rubbing. It works but it would take probably an hour to do one window and the edges would be hard to do. Im thinking a cutip would work. there has got to be a better way. maybe acetone or paint remover but that might hurt the body. I do know that the brake fluid did not harm it.

I WILL FIND A WAY:confused:

[EDMONTON]

does duratrax sell a clear body yet? Im too lazy to check.
Maybe an old xx body would fit, but that might be tough to find.
Id rather run my bx comando than have stickers on the windows. that would scream newbie at the track.
:eek:

[pudder]

Blacked out windows are for fools! :p

[EDMONTON]

yep

Can anyone please post about their bx good or bad.
Pics would be nice too.
Friday is a long time away for me.and theres no guarantee it will be on that shipment. Its all in distributors hands now.

[orbitron]

Originally posted by EDMONTON
hey Orbitron, what rcs do u have
do u have an evader bx? (not that it matters)

I have a stampede(loaded), evader st and an evader bx on order(will be here friday, maybe, i hope)
Evader St is all for me, unless you include the super ultra micro (I finally got a WRX!) I got for christmas

[orbitron]

Pudder - Never been east of Weyburn SK, perhaps Winnipeg would be a fun journey. I've heard rumours (note the Canadian spelling) Winnipeg was bug infested I don't know if I could go outside there. Jokes!!
Edmonton - Check out my website on my Evader here (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/evaderhome.html)

[pudder]

Well, it certainly would be good to have some out of towners come to some of our big races. We usually have people come from thunder bay, and some from the USA.

Yes, I do admit there is bugs here, but mostly in the country where I live, they do a pretty good job killing them in the city. Actually, I don't even remember a bug problem at the track. :)

I'll be sure to check out your site, and please take a look at mine too.

[orbitron]

Originally posted by pudder
I'll be sure to check out your site, and please take a look at mine too.
Where is your site? Oh I should look at your profile to find the location.

[pudder]

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder

[Hicountry]

Duratrax does sell the body in clear. I am sure some of the aftermarket bodies would fit as well.

The buggie is really cool and durable. The warranty is nice, but I wish it involved the dealers. I would rather go to the dealer and trade bad for good than wait for the mail.

Buy spare A-arms, Front "Bumper", and the tie piece for the front hinge pins. That way your buggy is not down waiting for parts.

I understand that all it is is a copy of the Losi XX. If that is true will all of the Losi XX parts fit?

Have fun.

[pudder]

No it is not an exact copy of the XX, but parts like suspension arms, shock towers will fit.

[losixxx213]

after looking at my friends st, you'll see that the evaders are styled after the xx and t3 both.

[orbitron]

Absolute necessity for your BX/ST is right here. The front hinge pin brace and bulkhead are WEAK this is the solution for less than $20 Jep-RC (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/home.html)

A lot of the XX parts will fit but you have to give it some love, Duratrax measures in metric and Losi in Imperial. This means hinge pin braces and other stuff like that have to be bored out to fit.

I only have an ST so I don't know about the compatibility on the buggy version but I would imagine it would follow the same rules, look at this link (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=36539) for a little info about ST I'm sure it will give you a good idea of the compatibility.

[pudder]

Originally posted by losixxx213
after looking at my friends st, you'll see that the evaders are styled after the xx and t3 both.


This I found to be very true. Most parts, suspension arms, shocks, shock towers, and most of the chassis and rear end design resembles Losi trucks. But looking at the gearbox, it is quite like the Stealth on my T3. The idler gears are interchangable with minimum modifications. I could drop the stealth in there, but the Universal axles are too large to fit in the T3's outdrives. Another factor quite like the T3/B3 is the front steering. Having the two kits, the steering is almost identical. The only difference is the quality of plastic, and the Evaders is a bit taller, which was a dissapointment because I would have blue steering in my T3 right now. :)

[EDMONTON]

I spoke to my lhs and my bx will be here next Friday and not tomorrow :mad:
Guess ill have to keep wrenching on the pede for now.
where are the bx pics?:confused:

[EDMONTON]

well my bx came in yesterday but it was the wrong one. They shiped the one with the radio and its an extra 100$. I dont need the radio or have the extra 100$. REAL BUMMER. Gonna be at least another 4 weeks maybe more. Oh this thing looks awesome. The tires seem good, not much binding in the suspension,green body looked really good, slipper seems to have a better pad than evader st had.:p

[litegide]

4 weeks! Tower had them in stock? I ordered mine last week and three days later I had it RTR for 169.00, when I called they had all colors in stock.

Phil

[EDMONTON]

thanks but for the $ exchange between us and canadian, it would cost me more and plus I dont want the one with the radio cause I already have it :)

[litegide]

Edmonton - sorry I didn't realize you were in Canada although car alone cost is http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCHZ6&P=0
US cost is 119.00

"Canada: Tower ships to all addresses in Canada. Add an additional $10.00 for postage and handling to Canada ($17.99 total). Note that a few large kits cannot be shipped via Parcel Post to Canada. "

not sure about the currency conversions

Phil

[EDMONTON]

thanks but it will cost more with the exchange, besides theres still a little snow left so I can wait I guess. Also theres a very helpful person at my lhs that goes above and beyond to help me out ALL THE TIME so I try to buy all my stuff there.:)

[rcracerguy]

Just thought I would post that I broke my trans case in half this last weekend. Nothing else broke just the trans case. I actualy thought it was kinda funny. Need to make the back chassis plate a little stiffer.

[CraigS]

Hello all. I am the proud daddy of a new Evader BX! Yay! I just took it out of the box today. I can't wait for the snow to melt so I can bring it outside. Running around my coffee table with it just seams so demeaning. I do have a question for you all. The car makes a whining noise when accelerating slowly or when I go into reverse. (I think it may be from the speed control, but does it even make noise?) There is also a long delay before reverse actually kicks in. ( I know it said there would be a delay, but this is will over a second or 2) Any thoughts on either of these 2 questions? Thanks.

- Craig

[EDMONTON]

There is a long delay and it seems to be worse when things are hot. Since I switched to Deans connectors, the sprint esc doesnt get as hot and seems to work better. Maybe its a coincidence but it can only help so I would try it.:)

[EDMONTON]

The whining noise can be the gears breaking in, the slipper clutch slipping too much or the ball differential. I would bet its the diff. You have to tighten it all the way then back it off so much(I forget how much cause its been a while) you should have gotten instructions on how to do it. Check it after every battery pack for about 6 packs or so or u could fry your diff. Also tighten the slipper clutch all the way to see if the whining goes away then reset it so you dont strip the fragile idler gear.

[EDMONTON]

Now that I think of it, my evader st whined loudly when it was bran new and every time I rebuilt the tranny, as long as the slipper is set accordingly and the diff tight (but not too much) I really wouldnt worry about it.

I think I had an oval groove around my coffe table when I got my st last winter so I know where youre coming from.:D

[litegide]

Craig/ Edmonton, I'll give you a comparison review of our new (red BX - what a neat buggy) I'm going to give it to my son on Saturday in the mean time I'll be building my rc10t3 hoefully it'll show up today or tomorrow.

At this point the BX is still in the box, I can't help but pull it out now and then just to check it out, but want my son to give it it's first run! Not bad for a 6th b-day present!

Phil

[BTE214]

The whining sound is from the gears breaking in. The general rule for diffs is tighten it down then back out 1/8 turn

[CraigS]

I'm going to adjust the diff when I get home from work. I've ran a few batteries through it like the manual says. I played with it again and the sound I'm talking about is when you just barely hold the trigger down. Is it the motor since you are starting to apply power to it, but not enough juice to make it go? It could be the gears. It's hard to tell.

[EDMONTON]

THE NOISE YOURE TALKING ABOUT,JUST BEFORE IT MOVES IS THE ESC. iM POSITIVE CAUSE i HAVE THAT SPRINT ESC IN MY STAMPEDE AND IF U PUT YOUR EAR TO IT YOU CAN HEAR IT.i THOUGHT IT WAS THE MOTOR TOO.:D

[mnmrc]

My uncle just got a new BX, and his makes the same noise. Its not the esc though. Its way to loud. When you let off the trigger it winds down really loud. It sound like a cheap toys r us car.

[CraigS]

It sure as hell doesn't perform like a Toys R Us car though. I actually got to take it outside and run it. I love it. I can't wait to race it at the local track. I'll have to practice quite a bit, but I can't wait.

[pudder]

.

(stopped getting email replies, need to mark my spot again :p)

[mnmrc]

It sure does perform well. I drove it last night and its pretty fast and handled very well in the dry loose dirt we were on. I just cant figure out what that noise is. One more thing, how do you keep the damn wing on?

[pudder]

Is the wing the type that has the wire that slips into the suspension arm? All I know that you can do for that is to bend the wire in a little so there is more friction holding it in. You could probably put setscrews in too if you want.

I am not as knowledgeable about the buggy as the truck.

[EDMONTON]

The noise craig is talking about is when the car isnt really moving yet and that is undoubtebly the esc.:D

[CraigS]

Yep. That's what it is. It's not a problem, I just wanted to make sure I didn't have a defect. I'm still waiting to get mine on a track. I've finally ran it around outside now that the sun is shining on upstate NY. I'm having a blast with it. I just have to go and buy some batteries. The old NiCds I have from about 8 years ago work fine, but only last about 8 mins.

[pudder]

Only 8 mins! :eek: Stop complaining, the 2400 I have doesn't even last that long! Only batts I have that will last around that long is 3300s

[litegide]

The Evader BX,,

Today was the day we ran out Evader BX for the first time. Wow wahat an awsome buggy!

That thing ramn well over ten minutes with old batteries. It ran flawlessly with steering acceleration etc. My son had it out powersliding away on the black top, my daughter has a stampede - the buggy was way more fun to drive than the truck.

The Evader does however have a few minor glitches that I'm sure are solvable...

1. The antenna snapped about 3" up from the base?

2. The Wing seemed to be a challenge to keep on, it was better when the arms are bent out vs bent in...

3. The Battery clip! The battery compartment is to dam tight, it's a major effort getting the clip smashed down far enough to force the safety clip into positin :mad: This was a real pain, do they make a strap of some sort. Or any modification where the battery has a bit more room?

Thanks,

Phil

[CraigS]

Really Pudder??? I was going to go out and buy some NiMh 2400 packs figuring I'd get a better run with them. Are they not worth it or do you have a hopped up motor, ESC, etc... that causes you to eat up battery power?

And I agree litegide... that wing is a pain when chasing the dog around in the backyard. I don't think it will be too bad on a track though. Has anyone made any modifications to theirs that works??

[pudder]

Well, I run a variety of motors from stock to mod. I know that my 1500's and 2000's wont get me through a 5 min stock race, my 2400 and 3300's will easily.

If I were you, get some 3000's or 3300's. If your charger is made for them also. :)

[CraigS]

How do I know if my charger will work? It is an old ProTech super charger. The batteries and charger I am using were new back when the RC-10 gold pan chasis were new.

BTW - If anyone is interested in 3 gold pan chasis (1 modified for oval racing) let me know. Otherwise I will post in the Buy/Sell forum.

[CraigS]

What is the fastest motor I can put in the BX that the stock ESC can use?

[BTE214]

It is rated for 20 turns but you could probly get away with an 18 you will need to be careful to watch for overheating and run times will drop. Other thatn that you should be fine

[CraigS]

Which motor do you guys recommend.

[EDMONTON]

I run a 17 turn with my sprint esc and its fine, just dont overgear and dont advance timing past 14 dgrees or so. I recomend the speedgem pro amber 17 turn. When my bx gets here Ill let you know what pinion gear u should use. That new 19 turn pro by trinity thats coming out might be a good choice too. It depends how strong youre batts. are. I use 1800 sanyos and get at least 10 minutes out of my rcs if geared correctly but never tried a lower turn motor than 17 for budget reasons

[pudder]

I reccomend the Chameleon 2 Pro from Trinity. It is an awsome motor, fast, lots of torque, and not too expensive. I have one, I really like it, as well as I know quite a few people who have these motors and like them a lot.

Suprisingly, I ran the Sprint ESC with a 15 turn and 3300's, never blew either, weird...

[hkgasmd]

hey I just strapped/wired together two 1500 - 6 cell packs today and ran my buggy around. Man was it fast!!!! I gained maybe 10-15 MPH over stock. The acceleration was incredible i was just spinning my tires if I let loose on the throttle from a standing start. I still running a stock motor and esc and checked them out after a few hot passes. (I cooled them down with an electric fan after I was done) I want to know if I'm going to blow up my motor or esc. My esc by the way wasn't too warm but my motor was extremely hot after about 10 passes. It was awesome though. I think if I geared to a larger pinion, it would go even faster since it seemed to have too much torque at the start. What do you guys think? I'm I being stupid and risking major damage or what?

[pudder]

Just stick to the stock gearing if your motor is getting really hot. Don't worry about blowing the ESC though, it has heat overload prevention, and you also have warranty. I have blown up a few on my own fault and they replaced them. I have even ran 15 turn motors and not blown anything. :)

[JeepsDaddy]

i just got an Evader BX prebuilt...

i have family stuff this weekend, so i'll actually try bashing with it... then next weekend i'll race it and see how the lap times compare with the B4...

here's my notes so far (not having driven it)...

1. the tires are best described as "diamond" compound... by that i mean they are hard.... super hard... LOL.. which is great for wear, and we'll see how they actually stack up for traction... oh and... i don't know what they are using for inserts, it feels like concrete.. LOL... at least the tires are pre-glued...

2. my shocks don't have full travel... they feel like they have too much oil in them.... we'll see....

3. pinion/spur mesh is pretty bad... way too tight.... (easily fixed though.. :) )

4. i can't find any of my wing mounting hardware.... (i bought 2 BX's, one for me, one for a buddy, i haven't found the hardware for either)

5. the video is decent... too bad it never shows the BX... (it's the video from the Evader truck)...

6. i'm still BOGGLED at the price... i paid 119 each.... i just can not beleive you get an entire buggy, that's already built, with an esc and motor, full bearings, ect ect for just 119 bucks..... :) :) awesome.....

7. the paint job is AWESOME.... top shelf 4 sure....

well... i'm off to install a servo and receiver... :) i'll report back sunday with a bash report... :)

peace out.... :)

[jay272]

Hey people. I just ordered an evader BX bx from Tower hobbies for $119 (prebuilt, not rtr). I've had an associated T3 and I thought it was ok. When I told people at the track that I bought a duratrax car to race with, they laughed at me!! I normally race touring cars (X-ray evo2) and since I'm not a serious off-road racer, I didn't want to pay $199 for a B4 or a losi buggy. And the fact that It comes with all the hop-ups and better shocks than a B4, an esc, and a painted body made the deal seem so much better. Anyways, I just wanted to know what parts should i stock up on, and what are the BX's problem areas? Thanks!!

-Jay272-

[JeepsDaddy]

Stern report after the first few packs....

lots of knobbies came off the rear tires.... they certainly didn't wear off, they broke off because the compound is so hard... LOL... no biggie really...

nothing else broke.... although i did get a rock lodged in the steering rack that prevented movement... 5 second fix... no problem...

handling bone stock- wow.... not nearly enough compression damping.... maybe they are using 5 weight oil... LOL.. or the springs are wayyy too heavy... combine that with the rock hard tires, and the car really likes to pogo...

corning- that motor really sticks out the back, and you can feel it in tight corners... ie- once that rear end starts to swing around, there isn't any stopping it... LOL... even with the battery all the way to the rear, the back still swings around rapidly... the car corners ok overall... it just takes a bit of getting used to... and i'm sure it'll corner about a zillion times better once i get race tread on it...

jumping- take-off is great... mid air control isn't bad (a bit rear heavy though).... but the thing lands hard... real hard... LOL... once again, lack of compression damping, and a realitively high weight for a buggy leads to some major botteming out.... also... it seems the BX uses the same chassis as the truck.... this means it's very easy to "case" a jump (where the frame bottems out before the front or rear wheels can hit terra firma, like when you land on the peak of a jump)... lastly... the motor sticks so far out the rear, that you really have to concentrate on landing flat or slightly endo'ed... if you land motor first, it's very hard to control...
i accidently hit a couple water puddles while driving..... no problem at all...

esc notes- i haven't driven a speedo with reverse for about a decade or so... LOL.. so it took some getting used to... but it seemed to work just fine... although the programming kinda worries me... (the first 2 seconds that you turn the speedo on is programming mode, and this occurs every time you turn the speedo on)....

the motor worked just fine, with excellent low end... it was short on breathe on top, a good stocker would eat it alive on top speed, but low end was great...

my run time with 2400 cells was 8 1/2 minutes.... just fyi....

here's the skinny on wheels and tires...

front- Losi rims wont' work... but i tried B3 rims, and they work fine with a tad bit of work... you'll have to remove the outside shim, and put the nuts on backwards, but they'll work after those small mods... BUT.. you will be wider up front than ROAR allows.... i'll be running B3 front rims... but i will be running illegal width up front... i've got B4 front rims to try as well... i'll post after i try them...

rear- XXX/B4 rims work.... but they'll make you a bit narrower than stock... not much, about 1/8" overall.... B3 rims work, but you'll end up about 1/2" wider than ROAR rules.... i'll be running Pro-Line Velocity B4 rims on my Evader Bx.....

the stock spring rates are a mystery to me.... so i'll be switching over to Losi springs... the Duratrax springs are slightly larger in diameter than AE, and slightly smaller than Losi springs... i'll install Losi XXX KE springs front and rear to help give me a base in my tuning...

btw... you guys having problems with your rear wing coming off... mount it just like the B3 FT... use the rear body mount as a mount for the wing as well.... you'll have to drill an extra hole in your wing, and cut out some more room for the shocks on the wing, but it won't ever come off, i promise.... LOL....

the Losi XXX rear wing mounts might work.... i'll try'em and see... i really prefer that method over any using wire....

oh and... if you know how to solder, cut off the stock motor plugs... that's the first thing i did... and there was plenty of wire left to reach the motor...

and yes... ALL the dern body clips (and battery clip) are freak'n hard to get off... watch out for broken finger nails.... LOL....

last note for now... the Pro-Line Vu2 B-3 body and wing will fit the Evader Bx...

oh and.. the stock servo saver works awesome..... :) you can run a cheap servo without too much worrying about destroying gears....

oh and.... my slipper was set perfect out of the box.... but my diff did loosen up.... i tried to tighten it, but it was already at about 1/8th turn out.... so i tightened it to 1/16th... we'll see...

that's all fer now.... :)

peace out... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

btw... if you use XXX/B4 rims, you'll have to use the inside shock mount on the arm for additional clearance....

peace out..... :)

[jay272]

Thanks for all the info!! I wondered about using other rims besides duratrax's and you answered the question before I even asked!! My BX should be here this week, and this will be my first time running on an off road track since I discovered the joy of touring cars on carpet (2 years ago).

[SpikyTire]

I actually bought the BX last Thursday off Tower (prebuilt) then discovered this site and this thread! I have another electric, but this'll be my first buggy. (other one's a touring car) From, what I've read, this is going to be a great buggy to run once it comes! Just thought I'd share...
BTW-does the prebuilt only come with the purple and yellow body? It still looks cool, but I was just curious. Thanks!:)

[JeepsDaddy]

prebuilt is just the one color scheme (purple and yellish)....

one of my LHS's actually stocks the duratrax rims... so i bought a set of front rims.... the duratrax rims are more narrow than Pro-line wide B3 or associated wide b3 rims... so when you mount wide buggy tires, it looks kinda strange... the proper fit would be narrow Losi or Pro-line tires on the duratrax rims.... but nobody really stocks them, so right now (LOL), i'll be running Losi wide front tires in red compound on duratrax rims (so i can be of legal width)...

also... the evader bx uses realllyyy long shocks for a buggy... i haven't tried yet, but i'll probably end up having to use Losi truck springs, not Losi buggy springs... we'll see....

i'll post more info laterrrrrr....

peace out... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

after hitting the LHS tonight....

you can use Losi XXX springs on the front of the evader BX.... but neither XXX or XXX-T springs are long enough in back... Losi does make longer 2.75" springs (i'm guessing for older models) so i picked up the only set they had for the rear of the BX...

peace out.... :)

[pudder]

You should be able to use the XXX or XX springs on the rear if you have your tension collar on the shock down eh?

[JeepsDaddy]

the XXX and XXX-T springs are 2.5".... i was using Losi Yellow (2.0) 2.75" springs on the rear of the evader... even with the collars alllll the way down, i was not able to acheive proper (bones level) rear ride height... if you use heavier (much) Losi springs, you "might" be able to acheive proper ride height... but... the stock rear pistons are set up for mega damping... so i think it'ld be pretty dern hard with 2.5" long Losi springs... but i'll try it and see...

i broke down and put in 30w ae shock oil at all 4 corners last night... i learned a few things....

1. 3 shocks were WAYYYYY overfilled from the factory... ie- the shock were so overfilled that they could NOT bottem out... in fact, the rears would only go about 1/2 of full travel...

2. the 4th shock had been wayyyy overfilled, but the cartridge had come apart inside the shock body, allowing a lot of oil to drain out.. LOL... i'll try and see if a Losi cartridge will work (i'm crossing my fingers)

3. the rear pistons are set up for LOTS of damping, while the fronts have very little... ie- after putting in the 30 w ae oil, the rear was wayyy overdamped, while the front was still a pogo stick...

4. it's pretty hard to get the oil level right.... or at least, a bit harder than top fill (ae) shocks or losi bottem fills...

5. the stock oil appears to be water.. LOL... and dampens about as well... (it is some type of oil, but i would guess the equivalent of 10 w ae.. LOL)

6. the stock pistons "appear" to be AE size... i'll try switching them out soon to see if it works...

peace out..... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

one qualifier here....

i had the battery all the way to the rear with the foam at the front... i love understeer, so most of my buggies are set up that way... but that puts a lot of extra weight on the rear of the buggy, and might have been the reason i was not able to acheive proper ride height with the losi springs...

peace out... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

B4 vs Evader version 1.0

B4 (180 bucks) set-up->
Box stock chassis set-up
Pro-Line M3 wide ribs
Pro-Line M3 step-pins ($25)
LRP Quant Comp ($160)
JR 8450 digital servo ($120)
Futaba HRS receiver ($110)
Trinity P-2-K-2 Pro ($30, with 24 pinion)
SMC GP3300 1.15 cells ( $60, mounted all the way to the front)

B4 total- 685 bucks (not including transmitter, but i am using a Futbaba 3PK, and used it on both buggies)

Evader BX (120 bucks) set-up->
stock speedo
stock Photon motor
stock gearing
Losi Red wide 4 rib front tires on Evader rims ($20)
Pro-Line M3 Step pins on Evader rims ($25)
Futaba 3003 servo ($30)
Losi Orange springs on front ($3)
Stock White springs on rear
30 weight AE oil front and rear ($3)
Pro Line Deva Vu body ($20)
Novak Futaba XXL receiver ($55)
SMC GP3300 1.15 cells ( $60, mounted all the way to the rear)

Evader BX total- 336 bucks (w/o transmitter)

type of track- dirt, outdoor, off road track... 110'x80'... multiple gnarly jumps, and a tricky whoop section... combo of 90 and 180 degree corners... one hairpin, 2 wide sweepers... fairly smooth... normally watered, but dries out quickly...

Fastest Lap Evader BX-> 30.9 seconds
Fastest Lap B4- 29.1

that's a 1.8 second difference (ya, i know duh... LOL)

btw... nobody else in stock truck or stock buggy broke into the 29 second laps except for me.... and only 1 other driver had a 30 second lap... ie- both the fast laps listed above were VERY fast laps on that track... and i feel like i got the very best lap times that i personally could do with both buggies on that day, at that track... i freak'n drove the tires off both the B4 and the Evader...

so... let me boil it down...

i had some reservations about the Evader Before the races started.... the suspension "felt" like it had too much damping in the rear and too little in the front, at least on the workbench....

but.... after hitting the track and racing it, it felt Awesome... i'm not kidding... the handling was not really the factor that it was 1.8 seconds slower than the B4...

nor was corner speed... the corner speed of the Evader BX was excellent (with the small mods and new tires anyways.. bone stock is a much different story... LOL)...

the major factor that the Evader was slower was power (just a bit lacking)...

the Photon was DERN impressive for it's price.... wide, even powerband... easy to drive... just a bit short on rpm (read- top speed).... about 3 car lengths slower than a GM3 on a 110' straight... not slow by any means... but not fast either...

there were two sections on the track that i really noticed i was losing time to the B4... the main 110' straight.... and a tough jump section... there was a short run at a single to table top jump... it was hard to make with the B4... and i just didn't have enough juice to ever make it with the Evader... i'm guessing i lost at least a few tenths every lap on that one jump (because i had to case it every lap with the Evader)... but the Evader is a good stock motor away from making that jump.... LOL... and not losing any time on the main straight...

i will be throwing a racing stock motor into the Evader this weekend and comparing lap times again... :)

there were 2 Evader buggies at our track this weekend, and i'm happy to report that neither broke anything...

i got along just fine with the stock speedo..... although the other racer at the track with an evader was having a bit of trouble with his...

also... the Evader Loves gnarly whoop sections..... LOL.... it's long wheelbase and ultra long suspension travel is really the hot set-up for whoops and choppy sections... i can honestly say the Evader was faster through the whoops than the B4....

the Evader BX also had one more very impressive feature (besides the low price).... if you race, you'll understand what i'm gonna say here... but, when you drive the Evader to the limit, and you push it just as hard as you can, it has an extremely wide "edge"....

the "edge" is the point where you are going so fast that a vehicle becomes hard to control and you start crashing...

on the B4 (B3, XXX, ect) that edge is very narrow.... the fine lined between going nuclear fast around the track and crashing your way to the back of the pack is a very fine line.... that line is a bit wider with the Evader... the combination of it being very stable in the rough, and a very neutral car in the corners lends to that wide line... i think the Evader would really work great for the local B, C main racer who has trouble walking that fine line between going fast and crashing...

lastly... i love my B4... it handles great... has great corner speed.... and loves to jump... but i also really dig the Evader BX... it definately drives differently than the B4, but not in a bad way... it inspires confidence, and leaves this huge smile on your face when you smoke buggies costing much more.... :)

more later folks.........

peace out.... :)

[pudder]

That is an awsome report! Would you mind if I put that on my site, I would give you credit for it and stuff, but I have to say that is a great comparasion!

[JeepsDaddy]

sure .... no problem... list your url after you get it up so i can take a gander at it...

btw.... there was one small change of set-up that i forgot to list in the above post... everything on the evader was bone stock except for what was listed above and one more thing.. i had the bottem of the rear shocks moved to the inside mounting position on the a-arm....

btw... my "real" handle is TheRealStern.....

lastly... i will post lap time information next week about how the B4 stacks up against an Evader with a P-2-K-2 installed....

peace out... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

more Evader BX notes...

my local track got rained out last weekend... but i did learn a few things....

the stock spur gear is extremely warped..... LOL.... a stock AE B-3/Kimbrough spur will bolt up just fine... a warped spur makes it hard to set proper pinion/spur mesh and can cause stripped spurs....

i had a "tight" spot in my tranny... as i would rotate my spur, there would be one spot where it was binding/tight (this test is done with the motor removed)... so.... i tore about the tranny...

tranny notes...

1. my idler was causing the binding... it has some rough teeth on it... and seems to be warped....

2. there is a TON of "goo" in the tranny... great for long life, terrible for a "free" spinning tranny (read- fast)... i removed as much of the goo from the idler/top-shaft area as i could...

3. the holes in the diff gear for the diff balls are too big... it's hard to keep the balls in place while assembling...

4. the diff rings are ONE sided... LOL... if you flip them over, you get a very rough surface.... just one more place they saved money on... you'll need to purchase new diff rings more often because of this...

5. contrary to what some people say, a B3/T3/Stealth tranny idler will NOT work.... the gear is the same size, but the bearings on the Evader are bigger, so it's not a direct fit.... (dern)

6. the slipper is well done, and works great....

7. the top shaft gear is cut real funky.... i'm sure some of you machinist types would know what type of cut it is, but to me it looks like they cut off the outer half of each tooth.... LOL... definately doesn't look good for putting down BL power...

i never did get that tight spot out of my tranny... i'm hoping with wear it will go away.... although i think i could fix it by installing a new idler.....

next subject.... power on the Photon speed is short lived.... after about a dozen packs, expect to lose about 25% of your power output, and lose much more after that as you put in more packs....

something strange is going on with the speedo....

i know a lot of guys on these boards say it can handle down to a "17" turn... but i know first hand you can overheat the speedo with a good stock motor.... ie- if you are wanting to put in ANY motor faster than stock, pretty much count on buying a new speedo, period... i'm throwing in a Quant comp, as there isn't much room on the chassis plate for a speedo.... they use up way too much room for the battery tray, and leave little for mounting up a speedo...

i still haven't broken a single part... :) and it's still a blast to drive and smoke other people with.... :) :)

more laterrrrrrrrr folks...

peace out.... :)

[pudder]

You can use the B3/T3 idler, you just need to drill out the center, it works good, I have done it before and never stripped an idler since.

Also, try putting a small amount of grease around the diff ball holes before putting them in, it will help them stick and not fall out while assembling.

[JeepsDaddy]

you "could" drill out the idler... but....

1. you are not assured of getting your hole centered unless you use a drill press and clamps... if the hole isn't centered, you'll just create drag... (kinda like the stocker i guess.. LOL)

2. you will be drilling out the center plastic as well, plastic that is there to keep the bearings seperated... if the center plastic isn't there, the bearings can "float" around inside the idler, which can lead to spun bearings and/or a wobbly idler... you'll basically need to install a washer of the correct width on the idler pin between the two bearings to correct for this... and even then, the ilder could still "float" around on the bearings...

so yes, an AE idler can definately be used in a pinch... but it's not a direct fit... and i wouldn't recommend doing it unless you can accurately center your hole and use the correct washer between the bearings...

and yes... i used Losi diff lube to attempt to hold the diff balls in the large diff holes... trouble is, the Losi diff lube is pretty thin stuff... it wasn't quite thick enough to keep the balls from falling out at will... it was hot outside, maybe the "trick" is to throw your diff lube in the freezer for a couple hours before using it on the evader bx diff balls... any which way.... i sure wished they would have just molded the diff gear with a tad smaller holes.. it's definately not a big deal... just a slight pain... certainly not such a big deal that the ultra low price tag of the evader can't cure.... LOL...

overall..... the tranny is still much better than i'ld ever expect from a $119 buggy... every tranny has a few bugs... i was just reporting what i saw as it compares to AE and Losi trannies....

peace out... :)

[pudder]

Buy some non Losi diff lube and see how it works! :p

Ya, see, also, I have the right tools in my shop to make the idler fit perfect, so I can easily do it. :)

[JeepsDaddy]

exactly what tools do you use?? and how do you hold the ae idler tightly enough without messing up the teeth?? just wondering...

peace out... :)

[pudder]

I use a drill press, sharp bit, and a drill press vice. Mine won't mess up the teeth because it has a little groove half way down, and I have never had one slip, or even flex in its holds.

[JeepsDaddy]

B4 vs Evader BX vers 2.0

:)

this comparision was at the same track as i listed previously...

the Evader was set-up exactly the same except for.... a Trinity P-2-K-2 Pro... and an LRP Quantum Comp speedo....

i had to replace the stock Evader speedo for a couple reasons (i really didn't want to replace it but...) ... 1. you can't lock out it's reverse, so it's not really "legal" for racing.... 2. it couldn't handle the stock motor geared for racing that i was running...

the B4 was exactly the same as listed before except all the downtravel limiters had been removed from the front and rear shocks...

fastest lap B4- 29.14 seconds

fastest lap Evader BX- 30.04 seconds

the track held 3 heats and single mains....

i ran the Evader in heats 1 and 3, and the B4 in heat 2 and the main.... i set TQ in heat 3 with the Evader... and won the A with the B4 over some pretty respectable racers running XXX KE's, B3/4's ect...

there were two Evader BX's at the track last weekend... once again, neither one broke anything.... :) although both our BX's had a left rear pivot ball pull out...... and the diff on my BX still slips on landings, even coming off a fresh rebuild and tightend to 1/16th out...

if i had to compare the B4 and BX... here's my opinion...

the B4 feels "quicker" and more "agile".... the BX more stable in the chop with excellent overall bite in the corners, with a wider "edge"....

more laterrrr....

peace out.... :)

[reggie]

can anyone recomend a good motor for bashing? i want a rebuildable one that i can clean too. i was thinking of a jaguar 17 dbl.... how duz that sound ? thankz ! :D

[mnmrc]

I bought that same motor from tower for my RC10. And so far i like it. The gold car is pretty heavy but that motor gets it moving pretty good.

[pudder]

Get something a bit better. I have heard, and seen a lot of bad things with those Jaguar motors. For bashing around I would reccomend the Trinity or Reedy 19 turn spec. motors. I myself have the Trinity one and like it a lot.

[reggie]

oh. how does a 19 turn orion rush sound ? or a 19 turn orion element ? what about a pinion gear ? tanks!

[guver]

Reggie, Pudder is right. I would get something better also. I have those orion rush motors and peak jags, they appear to be the same motor. I wish I had gotten something better right off the bat. I bought about 6 of them and am constantly working on them.

[pudder]

The worst thing I have seen happen with them is the comm melting apart. It didn't even look like the usual metal that comms are made of. Although this happened to one person I know, it won't happen to everyone, it is just the word of mouth that I wouldn't buy one, and I know for a fact that there are some better budget motors out there. :)

[reggie]

uh, like what ? the cheapest trinity or reedy is still way over my budget.......... i have like, 30 bucks to spend, and i still want to get some new tools , and powerpoles to replace the tamiyacrap connectors...... boo hoo, no money shall i wait until i have enough for good reedy/trinitys, or just get the rushes ? bearing in mind im just a widdle basher boi >.<

off that topic, the noise that was mentioned earlier in the forum is generated by the motor, but caused by the ESC.

[pudder]

Well, in your case, I would save my money. It sounds like you are just a basher on low budget, which is why you should save your money. Think of it this way, if you spend the extra money now and get a motor like the Chameleon 2 Pro, you will have a good quality motor that will last you a while. If you went cheap and got the Jaguar, you would have a low quality motor that would probably need a lot more work than it is worth, and the performance will not be as good, or for as long.

Just think of it that way. :)

[reggie]

ok, i see, thanks pudder !

btw, pk2k, 19 turn reedy, or chameleon 2 ? which is better / more suitable for a poor littel boi like me ?

[JeepsDaddy]

about the motor issue....

the stock speedo doesn't like a decent stock motor (ie- P2K2, GM3, Monster), so it's really gonna hate a C2 or Reedy 19T...

i have not rebuilt the stock photon motor... but it can be rebuilt.... you'll have to "pop" the endbell off (slam the output shaft on a hard surface) and bend the tabs back on afterwards... getting your comm cut and new brushes is much cheaper than a new motor, and from my first hand experience, its about all the stock speedo can handle for speed...

now.... my latest Evader report...

both the Evader BX's at my local track finally broke this weekend for the very first time...

i had a roll pin back out of a drive shaft causing me to come to a screaching halt when the dog bone went flying out....

and the other BX cracked a rear arm... it wasn't bad enough to cause a DNF.... they guy raced on it for the rest of the day....

those are the only two things that have "broke" on our 2 Evader BX's in nearly a month of racing....

i didn't race my B4 this weekend... i just raced the BX in stock buggy... and it took TQ and the A win... :) ... God it's a great feeling smoking the XXX and B4 guys... LOL.. once you win the A with an Evader, non of the other racers excuses hold water.... LOL...

peace out..... :)

[pudder]

Out of all the motors I mentioned, the Chameleon 2 Pro would have to be my favorite.

[JeepsDaddy]

here's my Evader BX...

peace out.... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

and a pic of my Associated B4, the Evader BX, and Losi XXX-4....

peace out... :)

[pudder]

Nice cars, I like the paint scemes on all ofthem too and that you keep them similar. I don't usually keep my paint jobs all the same, but I do like to use the same colors. :)

Lookin' good!

BTW-thanks for your opinion on the Novak ATOM.

[JeepsDaddy]

i actually always preferred the
Atom over cyclones and cyclone 2's... mainly because i liked the smaller footprint and lower weight of the Atom, and it had the same throttle "feel" of the cyclones while retaining a no motor limit...

and i figured i have been posting so much info here on the BX that i would at least post a pic so everyone could take a look at the buggy i'm always talking about... LOL...

peace out..... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

had another trouble free weekend with the Evade buggy.... i didn't break anything... although i do have to check my drive bones before every race to make sure the pins haven't backed out....

the other Evader BX owner at our track did break a rear tower this weekend... that is only his second break... the first was a rear arm, which he replaced with a Losi XX arm, all it needed was one shim to make it fit...

lastly.. an Evader truck won our novice class last sat.... :)

latersssss.....

[Henry G]

Hello guys, I have one quick question. I'm rc shopping for an electric basher for this summer. So, would these make okay bashers?

[guver]

I would say the EVST (truck) is a better basher than the buggy, but they're both good.

[pudder]

Trucks are always better bashers.

[JeepsDaddy]

"always"???

plus sides for a ST over a buggy...

1. larger tires= more ground clearance over rough ground and grass driving... more traction in loose conditions...

2. longer wheelbase (on most trucks)= more stable in rough conditions

3. wider= also adds to stability

downsides of a stadium truck vs a buggy

1. larger tires= cost more to replace, more rolling resistance, more unsprung weight.. harder on motors, and makes the truck a tad slower... also makes the cg higher than a buggy resulting in overall lower corner speeds in high traction conditions

2. longer wheelbase= doesn't work as well in tight areas (a basement, small'ish parking lot ect)

3. wider= heavier= harder on motors and a tad slower...

4. a truck is slightly more expensive (bodies, tires, some parts) if your budget is a tight one...

my .000002 cents is... if most of your bashing will be in grass or extremely rough/bumpy areas.... then a truck is best....

if most of your bashing will be on smoother surfaces, pavement, or tighter areas, or if you are on a super tight budget, look at a buggy...

peace out.... :)

btw.... i broke my first "real" part on my BX this weekend.... a front hinge pin brace...

[Henry G]

I'll probably drive it in the field by my house. It's pretty hard packed with some loose gravel in spots. It has sparcely seperated clumps of grass, weeds, and roots. It's VERY flat. I'd probably set up a few jumps, cones, and whoop my buddies e'pede (hopefully; he's got a 15 turn p-94.) There's also a very large parking lot there too. I could run it on-road too. I have a pretty tight budget. I (sorta) have a job. In a few weeks i'l go to visit my dad. He'll give me some money to help him fix-up (for lack of better word) his house. It's a total pit. Holes in the wall, celieng and floors, I'll find something to work on. When you walk to the computer you have to walk around the hole in the floor so you don't fall through:rolleyes:

[guver]

I would go for the truck, you'll find a better selection of tires for it. Also many street tires available for the truck.

[Henry G]

I'm okay with a smaller selection of tires. I'll just be bashing so it really doesn't matter that I get the absolute most amount of traction that I can get. I'll make the best of the tire selection. There are on-road tires too. I probably won't run any on-road, though.

[speedy gonnalo]

What would i need to convert my st to a bx. I race at check it out. (http://www.redstickraceway.com) http://mywebpages.comcast.net/00gmc/images/fsc/smilies/cookoo.gif jumps, eh?

[pudder]

You would need:

-Suspension arms
-Axles
-Turnbuckles
-shock towers
-spur gear
-body mounts
-body
-tires and rims

I think that is it, in the end, it's not even worth converting. It costs a lot of money you could use towards a new truck, and instead of spending a bit more money on a new one, you will be stuck with either a truck or buggy and if you want to drive a buggy instead of truck, you will have to switch back.

It just takes a lot less time and effort having two cars.

That is the reason I bought a B3 and a T3 in stead of converting.

[speedy gonnalo]

Originally posted by pudder
You would need:

-Suspension arms
-Axles
-Turnbuckles
-shock towers
-spur gear
-body mounts
-body
-tires and rims

I think that is it, in the end, it's not even worth converting. It costs a lot of money you could use towards a new truck, and instead of spending a bit more money on a new one, you will be stuck with either a truck or buggy and if you want to drive a buggy instead of truck, you will have to switch back.

It just takes a lot less time and effort having two cars.

That is the reason I bought a B3 and a T3 in stead of converting. DID YOU CHE CK OUT THE WEBSITE?

[pudder]

What website?

[slotracer]

Will the bx rtr take a stick pack??

[pudder]

Yes.

[slotracer]

ok thanks

[Suade907]

A guy I work with just got one of these. I have the ST. We went to the track tonight. I gotta tell you guys this buggy is faster the @$#&!. It would walk the .21 buggies in the straights but he couldn't control it all that great. It was tearing the wheels loose constantly on the claylike surface. It jumped pretty well but it was so powerful it made it hard to drive. He could literally be 5 feet from the face of a quad jump and clear them all. Unreal is what I have to say. But in the end this buggy has power overkill. If he can ever get it too hook up it's gonna be the fastest thing at our track.

[pudder]

What was the bx running for setup (motor, ect)?

[Suade907]

Bone stock it was the nitro version with only 10% nitro

[EvaderRacer76]

anybody ever get a clicking noise going on there BX after a bad landing on a jump? I think something's wrong with the differential, but I only jumped it a couple times and it is only 4 days old? any ideas of what could be wrong and how to fix it?

thanks a lot

[guver]

Usually it is a small pebble or grain of sand wedged in the spur gear, or maybe a cracked idler gear. Turn the spur gear all way around and check carefully.

[EvaderRacer76]

I checked all the gears and everything, but I couldn't find anything, but then I noticed that my slipper hub was wobbly and I think that's what was causing the noise, because it was uneven with the pinion gear at points. I moved the pinion farther away from the spur and it seeeed to fixed it, but it still makes the noise when i go into reverse, but I'm not going to worry about it, because I don't use reverse much.

thanks for the help

[orbitron]

Could anyone tell me the width of the BX front tires and back?
I'm going to do a half conversion on my ST (arms, turnbuckles & drive shafts only) if "certain" bodies will fit easily.

[guver]

overall width of rear bx tires are 1 11/16 inch
overall width of front bx tires are 1 inch - 1 1/16 inch

that is mounted width stock tire and wheel.

[orbitron]

oops I meant at the tires front and back. Thanks for the reply.

[guver]

Hey I just measured a used one that I have for sale (rtr $99.00)

it is front 9 3/4 "
it is rear 9 5/8 "

I also have two of my own that in the rear are

stock wheels on backwards 10 7/8 "
evst wheels with small tires 11 1/4 "

hope this helps

[orbitron]

Thanks guver - I got the hint but I don't want to get another car (my wife would kill me). I'm going to do the mods to get a WRC look out of my current stuff.

[microrcdude]

These are so competitive

[guver]

What aftermarket wheels will fit the EVBX front and back?
and what about the offset?

[pudder]

I think pro-line and Losi rims will work. The Losi will only work on the rear though. You will have to get B3 style rims for the front and XXX, or B4 for the rear.

[guver]

Would anybody here be interested in a street evbx?
It has an 8-cell battery and geared 35/78.

The chassis is slightly cracked, but has been that way for about 30 runs. I'll list it if anyone wants.

[Wizardman_1]

Wonder if any one is still on this forum, oh well. This is my Evader, its got a blue front bumper, green rear bumper, deans plugs, blue battery strap, and Robinson pinion gear. Will soon have rear sway bar, yellow ball cups, carbide balls for diff, aluminum hinge pin brace, and blue bellcranks. Stock pinion is kinda weird, replace it with a better one right away.

[Wizardman_1]

Chassis View

[*Supreme Losi*]

What bodies will fit this thing?

[pudder]

I'd imagine Losi XX...

[EvaderRacer76]

i've never tryed to fit another body on mine, but i'm sure you could rig up a XX body to fit.

[Wizardman_1]

i think the stock shell looks good, only if it had clear windows. I could never paint something that good. At my LHS they said practically any buggy body would fit with some trimming.

[EvaderRacer76]

i'm gonna try going at the windows with paint-remover, it probably won't work, but it's worth a try.

has anyone "winterized" their BX yet? it would be cool for some pics.

[Wizardman_1]

i tried using sand paper on the windows and it worked but the lexan got scratched, the remover will probly work. i ran my buggy in 3" of snow and it didnt get wet much cause the body fit so tight but water did get in through the chassis and rear plate, just seal that up and it'll work good, i would get paddles too

[pudder]

Ya, sand paper and things like wire wheels are good for doing an area if you want to re paint it because it will scratch the lexan. Paint remover or maybe even acetone will work like you are trying. Just make sure it doesnt melt the plastic!

[EvaderRacer76]

i just got done trying acetone on the front window....

it didn't turn out as good as i wanted, because there is a foggy/smokey screen of residue or something on the window still. i tryed scrubbing for like 15 minutes, but it still didn't work that much