T-Maxx 2.5 forum

[s_racer]

Does anyone know if you can put a bigger engine on the revo?

[rc10racer92]

i got one of the new t-maxx mine runs great :cool:

[mdracer]

what r the best off-road racin tires for the maxx (and wheels)?

[mdracer]

im thinkin bow ties velocity wheels or sportraxx

[rc10bob]

Hi guys, in the past you guys have been very helpful, now i have another problem.i do dirt oval racing, i have a t-maxx with a sirio 23 in it.i gotta say it really moves. My problem is when i come out of the turn and get on the gas it those wheelie i have to feather the gas.and when you want to go fast you don't always feather the gas. somebody had said to put light oil in the front diff and heavier oil in the rear without put wheelie bars on it Help Thank you

[mdracer]

does anyone here race their maxx

[mdracer]

how much better if better are the revos can maxxs still hang?

[Duster_360]

I don't race mine, but the Sportmaxx wheels and Sporttraxx tires made an incredible diff to mine! This combo is a lot lighter than the stock tires and the wear has been next to nothing in almost a gallon (dirt and hard pac in the park where I bash). The change to these tires turned my Tmaxx into a wheelie machine! I put a second set on my FR18 Maxx and its just nuts. I have to be careful with the throttle or I'll put it on its lid. Getting ready to do something about a wheelie bar of some kind - a got to with that truck, lol!

[USMCRay]

I was going to rebuild my 2.5 but thinking of buying a bigger motor. Is there much different between a .18 and a .21 medium block. I know the price is alot more but I was wondering about the power. If anyone know I would appreciate you responces. Thanx

[Duster_360]

In one of my Tmaxxs I run a Fantom 18 and it's quite a difference in power. It wants to wheelie all the time it seems and will out accelerate my other 2.5 by a noticeable amount. I put in a complete set of cvds and have yet to have any probs with the drivetrain. From comments here and in other forums, it seems there is at least as much of a jump between an 18 and a 21 as there is bewteen the 2.5 and the 18. The sweet choice on a 21 is the picco 21 dropin and it is a drivetrain shredder and wheelie monster for only about $20 more than the FR18. From all the comments I've read on a 21 with the stock chassis, there's a reason the conversion 21 kits go to a longer wheel base - spend too much time on it's lid. Unless you going to go with a lot of alum to make it a hvy truck, 21 may be too much motor to be practical. If you run on loose dirt all the time might not be that much of a prob as with a higher traction surface. Check the traxxas or the maxxtrax forum and do some reseach. Good luck on your decision!

[microrcdude]

I was going to rebuild my 2.5 but thinking of buying a bigger motor. Is there much different between a .18 and a .21 medium block. I know the price is alot more but I was wondering about the power. If anyone know I would appreciate you responces. Thanx
Go with the .18. you wont be dissapointed. May i also suggest getting a wheelie bar?

[USMCRay]

Well, I ended up getting a OFNA picco .21 max. It was awesome at first but now I am having trouble tuning it. It does pull the front up but it is totaly controlable. If I can get it to run right I will be happy. also as I break things I an going alluminum and deffinately CVDs soon.

[Duster_360]

Look around - have read that the tuning prob with the Picco 21 has something to do with the orings on the needles - they deterioriate or something and cause probs tuning. There has been lot of discussion about this on the traxxas tmaxx board. Might be of some help.

I wanted to buy one (still may yet) but have hesitated cause of hearing about people having tuning probs with this engine. Just don't have the spare time right now to fight that kind of prob. Hope you get it figured out.

[RSBatCRH06]

I too have been looking into a .18 motor since I am getting close to completely rebuilding my TRX 2.5 (bearings and all). I've decided to get a .18 since if I get a .21 or higher it would just tare apart my truck. :D Anyway I’ve been looking into 2 .18 motors a sirio TX .18 and a .18 from OS (I think it’s called CV-R or the OS MAX) designed just for the T-Maxx. I’ve been told at my lhs that the OS would be much better than the Sirio. Is this true? Does anyone here have an OS motor for there Maxx?

[RSBatCRH06]

I looked up the OS motor on tower hobbies. It’s called OS .18 TM. It comes out sometime this month

[Duster_360]

Yeah, I just saw the OS 18TM too. What's up with that motor that makes it cost $80 more than their other OS 18s?? You can get the Picco 21 drop in for $40 less than that. I'm disappointed in the price - thought this would be a real alternative to the Fantom, Sirio and Epic 18's, maybe not....

[RSBatCRH06]

At my lhs they said everything is made from aluminum even the sleeve. So that’s probably why its $80 more.

[Duster_360]

Does that mean you have to replace the cylinder to rebuild the motor - no more buying a piston and sleeve - its a piston and the entire cylinder?? I bet that'll be expensive.

Honda went to some kind of ionized spray on coating on top of an alum cylinder with their dirbikes years ago (Nikasil ? sp?) to eliminate the cast iron sleeve and save weight, but it took a few yrs before they got the quality and consistency evened out. If OS has ventured down that road, I guess I am going to play wait an see for a while to see what kind of engine life this all alum design gets.

[RSBatCRH06]

no i think he meant that everything is aluminum. so that the engine cools and heats up at the same rate. and i think that will make the piston and sleeve last longer till you need to change them. thats what i think.

[rcster3000]

i just got my hands on the new t-maxx and it was a MONSTER TRUCK :eek: lol. I never drivin any truck like that one i give it an A PLUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cool:

[rshooch]

hello all my friend has just picked up a tmaxx a few days ago and he hit a log pretty hard. im going to fix it for him nonight but he mentioned to me that the truck will not move. he said the drive shafts exc.. look good but it will just jump alittle than rev up.. any ideas??? other than that one of the shock caps busted and the lower right a arm busted if it will help any... any feed back will help. i havent seen the truck yet so i dont really know how bad it is...

Thanks rshooch

[moabhustler]

has anyone tryed or heard anything about the Dynamite .26 conversion for the T-MAXX...like is it worth the money or is it a waste.

also if anyone is good with getting a T-MAXX to shift any help would be great!

[cummins driver]

Dont know about the conversion, but pull the rubber plug out of the tranny case, and get it where you can see the allen head screw. If its stuck in first i think you can loosen it up some, to make it shift to 2nd, and if its stuck in 2nd, it could need to be tightened some. Good luck.

Eric

[Spawntaneous]

Morning,

Is there anyway to fit ofna 1/8 scale buggy tires on a TMAXX?? Maybe a hex conversion??

Curious
Josh

[T-EVO RACER]

I don't think so.

[T-EVO RACER]

My name sounds a little wierd, huh? Yeah a T-EVO is an evolved maxx from box stock form. Mine went towards racing so it doesn't have much creative stuff, just effective stuff.
For all you maxxers in so/cal come to crystal park hotel and casino, look it up in the yellow pages, thats where they tested the mgt by rcca. Once you know where the hotel and casino is then you go down the driveway/road thing and keep going down the parking lot path by the metroline all the way till you see it. Its on the second and fourth sunday of each month and come no later than 10;30 am,I'm coming at 8:30,9:00 so I can get a real good spot.

[R/Cbum4life]

hey guys, you may remember me, you may not. Anyhow I pulled the ol' maxx of the shelf the other day, (2.5) and realized how crappy my shocks are right now. They are nice threaded aluminum ones, but are way low on oil and . Anyhow, I am sick and tired of the ever so popular maxx suspension syndrome, you take off and as you are flying down the street the back end sags and stays that way until you hit the brakes. What viscosity fluid are all of you using? How about springs? How many hole pistons? I have the stock springs on right now and they are too soft in my opinion. I don't want a cushy truck, I want the bare minimum that it takes to keep my maxx up to the top of the shock travel without having to crank way down on my threaded adjusters. Don't talk to me about handling either, because I dont care, this is a monster truck, not a stadium truck like so many turn it into. All I do is jump anyway! What shock setup do you all recommend?

[T-EVO RACER]

I run 40 wt in all 8 shocks and it works fine in the dirt but my truck is light. So, maybe 45wt or 50wt. Racing is also extremely fun if you tryed it. After you do that, get to track and try it out.8)

[Spawntaneous]

what weight would you suggest for a tmaxx thats ALL dynamite aluminum except for the differentials??


And is there a buggy wheel conversion for the maxx??

josh

[T-EVO RACER]

For all metal truck like alum. i would run 50-55wt with 2 hole (stock) it you want medium suspenion for stiff ride hieght In would run 60-65 with 2 hole. (stock)

[rcster3000]

HA HA HA HA....................Ya'll are crazy there is no need for supeing up your engines or fixing up your shocks unless there broken or your racing your car what you need to do is when you actually have enough bills to get your ride pimped...........you should buy spare parts for it.But sometimes if your smart you can come across a good deal for cars,rims,wheels,ect. You dont fix your ride for show you need to race mannnnn!!!!!!!!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

I'm gonna do that to my dads f-150 when he gives it to me. Pimping my rccar, for what, to look at it. (someones seen to much pimp my ride.) then what a sound system and hydralics, HAHAHAHA!!!! But hey whatever YOU want to do, you shouldn't have us perswad you to not do that.

[R/Cbum4life]

I dont want to pimp it, i want it to function and right now my shocks blow, they need to be rebuilt. I agree though, upgrade as you go, or else get a good deal on a used one. I got one with rpm arms all around, rpm shocktowers and body mounts, aluminum bulkheads, aluminum threaded shocks, a brand new 2.5 engine, ti skidplates, aluminum chassis braces, and a couple other things im prob forgetting all for 400.00. thats not a bad deal, sorry to brag... lol

[R/Cbum4life]

how bout springs? Who likes what? Stock ones are too soft. Any idea what the stock spring rate is??? Is there anyone alive around here? I have been out of it for a while, but at least there was a good 4 or 5 posts per day, this is ridiculous, haven't seen anything in quite a while... Lets get this moving again.

[T-EVO RACER]

Just got the traxxas chassis and rrp brakes, and a bunch of spare parts, does the hardcore alum. coolinghead work better than the gh, and is it stronger?

[R/Cbum4life]

Speaking of cooling heads i managed to break my traxxas one today. Anyone using the trinity spring kit out there? What stiffness are you using?

[Duster_360]

I didn't buy a kit, but I'm using the trinity blue springs - 4 total with 4 of the red stockers. Its ok for a regular weight Tmaxx, but for my lighter weight Maxx, its too stiff a setup. Reds all around is too light though. I am waiti8ng on some more springs in a Tower order due tomorrow. I hope I can get something in between what I have now - more than stock, but less than 4 blues and 4 reds.

Is the kit you mentioned an assortment of different springs weights? That would help tuning if teh assortment has enough range. One other option is variable rate springs, haven't tried them yet.

[R/Cbum4life]

no, ordered a set of four, one for each corner. I think they are the "stiff" rate. My truck is quite heavy, a little over ten lbs. I got another question. The other day I managed to break a few of the screws that hold the bulkhead to the chassis, and I also lost quite a few of the ones on the underside where the skids screw to the chassis braces. Anyone else think the traxxas screws are really week? a Ti screw set sounds nice but kinda pricey. Who reccomends what?

[Duster_360]

The springs I got are the trinity blacks, so I am going to try those. Also changing to a set of hot bodies alum shocks.

Yep, the stock screws are poor (to be polite) and the phillips heads really bites. There are a lot of options out there and Ti is not one of the better ones - heard complaints about their being brittle. My 1st screw kit was a Fullforce one with grade 12.9 black oxide. It was a good kit, but expensive for the number of pieces you got. The last I bought was this one and its the best I've encountered - also 12.9 black oxide but a 260 pc kit -

http://www.crispycrittershobbyshop.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=428

Thought enough of them went back and bought a screw kit for my soon to be running TNX.

[T-EVO RACER]

Kyosho buggy white spings for outside shocks and stock reds for the middle shocks.

ok:does the hardcore alum. cooling head cool better and is it stronger than the gh???

[bob333]

try associated shocks they work great!

[T-EVO RACER]

Whatever I'll, find out tommorrow.

[T-EVO RACER]

Tommorrow will be my race day, new chassis, rrp brakes, mip clutches, 40wt in 4 of 8 shocks instead of 50wt in them. AND THE HARCORE COOLING HEAD! So wish me luck, racing a bunch of revos and truggies, one truggy is a jt dace conversion tmaxx, which used to be a emaxx!

[EMAXXERKEVIN]

here's my jt maxx t-evo is referring to:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/EMAXXER101/PA250002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/EMAXXER101/c913a7ba.jpg

Hey T-evo racer what place did you come in on sunday?

Kevin

[T-EVO RACER]

Kev, I came in third, you came in second behind robert, right, I died three times in ONE race. My new harcore cooling head would cool it from 260-290 all the way down to 200-220! So when i land on my head or a would give it gas for a few seconds it would load up and die. so after the race, my dad did some tuning and DANG! She was A HAULIN'!! So at palomar I should do good against them truggies and revos! Gio I think went to palomar on the 14th.

[T-EVO RACER]

Then go to www.palomarraceway.com then go to RESULTS then FINALS then MONSTER TRUCK and see giovanni alcala who came in 5th.

[PBCRAZY]

the revo kicks the tmaxx's butt any day

[T-EVO RACER]

Not really, if your referring to a stock tmaxx with a stock revo, then ya, but me and kev's maxxes can beat a revo, kev can beat a fully modified revo anyday, I can beat a stock one anyday, but a modified revo, well, it would be close.

Unless you have a revo and you beat every maxx you see. Not a smart idea, I mean, your in the freaken tmaxx section and dawgin' us, plus its still up to the driver. So, next time you say our hard earned dollars were spent on the wrong car, SAY IT MORE NICELY, OR DON'T SAY AT ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

Me and my friend were walkin' around today and we elt like goin' in radioshack so we did and we see this full line of zip zap monster trucks! We are gonna make track for these, will old lexan body parts work good as borders?

[T-EVO RACER]

Oh yeah and their 4wd! a 1/60 scale car with 4wd!

[T-EVO RACER]

oh yeah just popped in my 5945 instead of a 645mh and wow! alot better! just letting you know.

[bob333]

were you getting interference

[T-EVO RACER]

What bob333??? interference?

[T-EVO RACER]

I was the only tmaxx there, went against revos, a mgt, a truggy, and a mamoth.It was a 20min race, qual. 2nd, the annoucer yelled GO!! and I passed the tq in the takeoff. Then led for the rest of the 19min and 57sec left in the race.

[bob333]

oh yeah just popped in my 5945 instead of a 645mh and wow! alot better! just letting you know

Wait were you talking about your radio? :confused:

[T-EVO RACER]

no, oh I raced at www.palomarraceway.com

[T-EVO RACER]

The results for 11/28/04 aren't up yet, i'll when they are.

[bob333]

Sorry been into electric bashing for years. Been kind of oblivous till about a month ago I decided to go to nitro. Since then I've been trying to learn as much as I can cause im getting a revo

[T-EVO RACER]

the site has updated it, www.palomarraceway.com then go to results, then go to the bottom of the page then click on main 4, and look for david orner. YEAH!!!

[bob333]

Cool i might think about racing at my local track.

[T-EVO RACER]

Were's your local track, mine is crystal park raceway.

[bob333]

delta rc it is in antioch CA (Nor CAl all the way)

[Maxoctane]

I am going to follow the "bash break and replace" mantra.
The stock stuff is working right now, when it breaks I will replace.

I agree, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[Duster_360]

If you break something that requires major disassembly to fix, might as well replace anything along the way that you've wanted/thought about upgrading and get it done without taking it part all over again. Unless you just like taking it almost all apart......

[T-EVO RACER]

Hey, bob333, so/cal rules fool!!! When your down here in so/cal for a trip check out crystal park, its in compton but don't worry. Nicest racers out there!! We help tons of people out all the time.

[4x4freak]

hey what tires are good all around bashin tires for the t-maxx?

[looker2756]

I like the Proline Bowties. They even work good on flat surfaces, Pavement for example.

[Duster_360]

SportTraxx do a great job for me, have them on both trucks mounted on SportMaxx wheels. Noticeable weight saving.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Hi! I'm a T-Maxx 2.5 owner and this is my first time to talk here. I have a Motor Saver air filter and Dubro reddish orange fule line on my truck. T-MAXXES ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nothin Beats a MAXX!!!!! I also have a electric Rustler and I am going to get a new Team Associated RC18T mini truck! Tell me what you think of my little collection to be. Also does anyone out there know how to clean the Motor Saver air filter? Please respond I lost the directions(DUHHHH) I love all monster trucks that Traxxas and some others like the Trinity Spyder. Thanks a million. GOD BLESS YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[TMaxxBenny25]

I plan on starting to race at Capitol R/C raceway. If any of you have raced there plese tell me your opinion. (PS I have had my T-Maxx2.5 for 9 months.) Thanks GOD BLESS YOU!!!!!!!!!!!

[Chevy-SS]

Be careful trying to race your T-Maxx. It's OK for backyard bashing but it stinks for racing. I have a race T-Maxx that I spent $1,500 fixing up with every conceivable speed part and it still stinks. My Picco .26 Monster GT will eat it up.

Save your money and get a truck that's better suited for racing. If you gotta have a Traxxas product, then get a Revo. They make for some good racing. Also good is the LST, TNX or MGT and others too. Of course, this is all just my opinion. Not trying to start any wars here.

However, this much is GUARANTEED: if you start racing your T-Maxx you will quickly realize how badly it fares. Then, you will be tempted to start spending money on it to make it a better racer. DON'T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek:

[TMaxxBenny25]

Thank you for your opinion. I meant race my T-Maxx as in just drive around the track and maybe do some races in the rather low mains. But if I do consider to race higher trust me I would buy a Revo. I love Traxxas products! Your T-Maxx sounds interesting. Would you please tell me more about it? What kind of track do you race at as that might contribute to your opinion. Thanks again GOD BLESS YOU!!!!

[punkrockracer]

Questions about 2wd T-maxx.

Ok, Want to try this thing out in 2wd, and since it is sitting un driveable now (needs new servo), I decided I would ask first, try later. To go 2wd, do I need to do anything special other than take out the center drive shaft to the end of the truck that I don't want to have power? The reason I am asking is, if the center diff will unload to the end without the drive shaft (does the Maxx even have a center diff?), what can I do to fix it?

Also, has anyone ever tried a F(ront)WD Maxx? How does it handle on road? Better than 4WD? Less likely to roll with 2 or front wheel drive?

[T-EVO RACER]

Hey, tmaxxes are one of the best race monsters, they need alot of work, I have alot of mods and I still run small block,

my mods are:

1. hitec 5945 steering servo
2. jr 590 throttle servo
3. hardcore cooling head(2.5)
4. bowties
5. hpi q6 wheels
6. hardcore titanium front and back skid plate
7. proline bumper set
8. traxxas hop up chassis
9. ofna ultra gx buggy tank
10. dynamite motor mount
11. reedy batt. pack under the chassis
12. rrp steel spur gear with double slipper clutch
13. rrp steel disc brakes
14. foward only conversion
15. pull start
16. jr xs3 radio
17. traxxas big bore shocks

SET UP
1. os#8 plug or A5
2. odonell 30% nitro fuel
3. kyosho white buggy springs on outside shocks
4. stock red in middle shocks
5. crowd pleazer with wing
6. of coarse your camber and toe settings
7. me as the driver
8. my dad as almost the best and fastest pitman

told ya, but forjust fun racin' a maxx is fine!

[punkrockracer]

I hope that wasn't a response to my questions, if so...learn to read, if not...which I figure is the case, can someone help me out?

[chevy_94]

whats a good carb for the trx 2.5 motor???? and will a carb give it any more power

[TMaxxBenny25]

thank you t evo racer!!! I love my T-Maxx and I wouldnt trade it for anything. I like the revo too but i'll stick with the maxx. THANK YOU GOD BLESS!!!!!!!!

[TMaxxBenny25]

I have seen a rear wheel drive T-Maxx 2.5 and it did not need anything except for the driveshafts out. But I would not try to do the FWD conversion because I saw a guy who did that to a Mammoth and he cooked his $350 engine. :eek:

[T-EVO RACER]

Ya stick with the 4wd, 2wd is to tipsy with the throttle, 4wd rules all the way to lawndale AND back!! (basically it just better!!)

[T-EVO RACER]

hey punkrockracer, that post was fo' tmaxxbeeny25! And tmaxxbeeny25, don't get a revo, I don't know, everyone I know who has a revo are having probs, they ain't newbs either, these are experienced racers and they say the revo kinda sucks, they would pick a MAXX istead of a revo. hey chevy ss, if don't want wars don't say stuff that we put our money into stinks, aight?!!? Chevy ss, you might have a bad set-up, thats why you maxx sucks!!

[punkrockracer]

Maybe, with 4wd, the stock servo strains, and I am looking for the cheapest alternative, and 2wd, or front wheel drive (better on power steering?) might work better.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Thank You T-EVO RACER!!! I think that i'll stick with the Maxx. I mean I LOVE MY MAXX!!!! I am only trying to get some imput and you have convinced me. I bet you have a T-Maxx 2.5. Would you mind tellin me what you have on yours?THANKS GOD BLESS!!!!!!!!!!

[chevy_94]

what would be some good on-road tires for my t-maxx i am trying something new with my maxx.

[Chevy-SS]

.......... hey chevy ss, if don't want wars don't say stuff that we put our money into stinks, aight?!!? Chevy ss, you might have a bad set-up, thats why you maxx sucks!!
TMaxxBenny was talking about racing his T-Maxx and I am legitimately offering my valid opinion based on my own personal experience and others I have seen. I am trying to save TMaxxBenny (and others) money. In order to make the T-Maxx into a half decent racer, you gotta spend a ton of money.

Nowadays there are too many other trucks out there that you can buy right off the shelf and race (and compete). The Revo was one I suggested, just so you don't think I am biased against Traxxas. I have two T-Maxxes, one is a $1,500 Hardcore extended chassis full-on racer and the other is modded with the Picco P2 and tons of other stuff.

T-Maxx is an OK basher and general fun truck, but if you wanna race (and win once in a while), there are many better choices.

[chevy_94]

well damn i have asked 2 questions and it seems like i am invisible to everyone. thanx for all ya'lls help.

[Chevy-SS]

well damn i have asked 2 questions and it seems like i am invisible to everyone. thanx for all ya'lls help.
Dude, you ain't invisible. The stock carb is fine, actually, many people I race with think it's too big. You won't get any more power from a different one.

For onroad bashing, I use Proline Road Rage tires. They work for me, but of course, others may have different opinions.

[chevy_94]

thanx for the info chevyss

[TMaxxBenny25]

Hi guys! I didnt want to start a big argument. I'm sorry. I am hoping to get the Road Rage 40 series And Velocity 6 forty series for X-Mas. Anyone of u guys seen that new Associated RC18T? I want one of those for christmas too!!! THANK YOU GOD BLESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

Sorry chall, I gone misunderstood sometin'! Hey tmaxxbeany this for you, and anyone who's interested http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_18t/rc18t_video.htm
road rages would tight for yall truck espessally in the street.

[T-EVO RACER]

Thats all stock, except a wing on the body!

[punkrockracer]

I don't see how it would cook it. He must not have set his front suspension softer than the rear so that he gets traction to the front and doesn't spin out so the engine burns up.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Thanks for the video!!! Do u want one too T-Evo racer? Thanks GOD BLESS!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

OK! thanx!

[TMaxxBenny25]

ANY1 want an RC18T? Thanks GOD BLESS

[T-EVO RACER]

not me no mo', gotta get a few maxx parts(and apparel):

1.maybe rpm skids (the ones that don't cover as much as stock skids)
2.buggy wing (don't know which one though?)
3.power 106 mixmas cd
4.some mo' clothes
5.stuff!

[TMaxxBenny25]

I am sad to say that I have experienced my first breakage to report on my Maxx. I was jumping off the second layer of grass at my house that is lined with uneven rocks and i punched the throttle. I hit it a little awkward and it BROKE PART OF THE ROCK OFF!!!:eek: When I inspected my T-Maxx i had taken an 1/2 inch chunk out of my rear skid plate. I think that this an incredible testiment to the durability of a Maxx! Thank You!!! GOD BLESS!!!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

Thats crazy!!! its the stock skid plate right???

[T-EVO RACER]

Can you hear hardcore titanium skid plates baby!!!???

[TMaxxBenny25]

yes it is the stock part!!! If it was those titanium ones imagine the sparks!!!!!!! Thanks GOD BLESS!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

yeah off the bactstraight triple at my local track at night races it would spark the WHOLE JUMP!!!!!!! but no chunks would be missing off your skid plate!!!!!!!!

[T-to-the-MAXX]

waait, i forgot

[T-to-the-MAXX]

i know i've posted this in another thread, but i was gettin any help, so, i got a pretty much stock 2 yr old t-maxx 2.5 and hav tryed many different tunings, but always seem to like stock better. wat is a good tuning. i like to jump, a lot, and wheelies are cool and i like to go fast. wats ur opinion on a good tuning? and im thinkin about integy msr4 shocks. wat do u think of them? also, is mud ok to go through.

[chevy_94]

i don't know to much about the tuning on one but i take my 2.5 maxx through the mud just about every run. and the integy shocks are junk. find some other shocks. i am getting some proline powerstroke shocks for my maxx.

[T-to-the-MAXX]

thanks. still like to know about the tuning tho

[T-to-the-MAXX]

oh, ya, wat r some good shocks priced $80-100

[T-to-the-MAXX]

how are these shocks

http://h1070145.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN7636B

[Duster_360]

Tuning is something that is too variable for you to expect to use what somedoby else in another area is using. That's prob why you didn't get any answers back in the forum. The 2.5 is too sensitive to changes in altitude, humidty, temperature etc for me to tell you what I'm using and you to exepct instant success with it. Sorry, its not that easy.

Watch the DVD that came with it and follow their advice, learn how to tune it. Get the engine warmed up and then start making small changes to one needle. See what that does and then go from there. Small changes - less than 1/8th turn. I refer back to a clock face and make changes of about an hour at a time. The truck originally came with a tuning card and you will find out rich and lean are not obvious based on changes in your running area, get one and use it as a reference.

My 2.5 has a definite "sweet spot" tuning wise. Once I found it, it'll pull wheelies and flip over on its lid (I'm bashing in close cut grass - high traction). I've had to put a wheelie bar on it cause too many wheelies is a nusiance - spend too much time flipping it back over, lol. Anyway, keeping it tuned in the sweet spot from bash session to bash session is the real challenge, takes a little learning and patience and you'll get there.

Traxxas big bores shocks are prob just as good and are $20 less off ebay. The extra dollars are only buying the threaded collars for setting spring preload and I've better results using the spacers - no fiddling to be sure the spring preloads are all the same. Just my preference though, don't have experience with those shocks. Dynamite stuff has a good reputation thgough, so I'd expect them to be good shocks.

[T-to-the-MAXX]

do you kno any othr good shocks for that price range

[T-to-the-MAXX]

and wat r some good stiffer springs

[T-to-the-MAXX]

bump
i need the help

[Duster_360]

Try the variable rate springs by Fullforce RC, best of both world's - soft like stock for a plush ride then as travel increases, they get stiffer to help avoid bottoming out. I am using trinity blue springs on one of my Tmaxxes with a stock red and a trinity blue at each corner. That seems to be a good setup for what I do with the truck.

I have a set of powerlines on one max and my other has a set of Hot Bodies alum shocks. The powerlines are the best, but they're the most expensive too (120 off ebay, delivered). The Hot Bodies were competitive with the Trx Big Bores price wise at $60 and they use the threaded type preload adjustment. If you want to spend more - look for shocks with the fake remote reservoirs, they add a bit of bling bling, but no added performance.

[T-EVO RACER]

traxxas big bores with white kyosho front buggy springs.

[TMaxxBenny25]

where is everyone??? LETS GET TI STARTED IN HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[T-to-the-MAXX]

need help! could i buy some shock caps for my stock shocks. i really want to ru it but 1 of my shock tops snapped off.

[T-EVO RACER]

yeah, they sell shock caps to replace your stock ones or you can get hop up ones!

[Duster_360]

Here's a good how to on strengthening your stock shocks - I did a set and I've never had any trouble with caps popping off -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/shocks/tm-strengthen-shocks.asp

Good site for practical how tos and hop up evaluations by one of the traxxas guys.

[T-EVO RACER]

hhhhhmmmmm, nice site!!!

[Duster_360]

He's really put a lot of work into his site and its saved me from a few "look good but don't work so good" upgrades. His product evaluations are for use on a Tmaxx, so if I want to mod something I usually check out what he has to say and see what his experience has been. Its nice to have feedback about how something is going to work on the truck you're working on.

The only prob I have had with his advice was over the tranny screw holes mod where you drill out the plastic where the screws go and press in threaded brass inserts. I did that mod and it was a big PIA - it was no where as easy as he makes it sound. Other than that, I've found his advice and recommendations to be right on the money.

[T-EVO RACER]

when things beciome a big P.I.T.A.!!!!

[T-to-the-MAXX]

Here's a good how to on strengthening your stock shocks - I did a set and I've never had any trouble with caps popping off -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/shocks/tm-strengthen-shocks.asp

Good site for practical how tos and hop up evaluations by one of the traxxas guys.
thats cool, but im gettin new shocks for xmas (proline powerstrokses), but i wanted to run it so bad, but i ended up not, so i'll just wait for 2mro

[chevy_94]

who makes aluminum driveshafts for the t-maxx. and i also want aluminum shafts that come off the differentials also. don't know what they are called. would this be a good hop-up?

[Duster_360]

The shafts to the axles from the trans are called axle shafts. I don't think I've seen any that are alum (Ti and steel) - most of the time the reason for upgrade to the drive train is you're putting in a bigger motor and need the strength - the extra weight is a so what. When changed to a fantom18, I changed to a full set of RD Logics CVDs (steel). I think the FR18 and some of the other 18s out there could twist alum shafts anyway. The weight gain going to a full set of steel drive and axle shafts is about 3oz - not real significant, especially if the drive train really needs it.

If you're running the stock 2.5, I'd stick with the stock axles - they seem to be plenty strong and lightweight. My other Tmaxx runs a 2.5 and has had no probs with the stock shafts. You might find this an interesting read about CVDs -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/reviews/rd-logics/cvd/cvd.asp

[tec_41]

Hey guys, don't want to throw you off topic, but I just got an s-maxx for christmas :D Sad part is I haven't gotten to run it because the bleeping EZ Start ate up my only glow plug (Tower didnt send my other ones) So Im going to get a Glow Ignitor and save me some trouble!

[Duster_360]

Wise move - there's been a lot of posts over on the trx site about the ez start controller's problems with glo plugs. I took the blue wire off both of mine and started using a glo igniter early last spring. I always have a least a spare glo plug on hand of every kind I use. I keep a spare glo igniter on hand too.

Hope you have a nearby lhs where you can get something to use until your spare ones show up!

[tec_41]

I do have an lhs but their plugs are like, $7 so I can wait. The stuff will probably be here wednesday or thursday- Tower is one state south of me so they ship pretty quick :) I really think it's time that Traxxas upgraded their starters...they just throw that ez start in there so they can say their models are rtr.

[Duster_360]

Yeah, the discussion on trx board and the repairs to fix the glo plug side of the ez start makes it sound like if they spent 25cents more per unit and used a better grade of electronic components, then it wouldn't break as much. If yours is new, they used to replace a bad controller without question - just call them and you'll get a new one. I would do that much - have a working one at least. Maybe if they replace enough of them, they'll fix the prob. I think its a weak resistor or something like that.

To be truthful, though, the ez start was why I bought a tmaxx as my first rc after being out of it for so many years, so its not all bad. I like how other companies (Tamiya with the TNX) they don't try to do the glo igniter with the starter - they just give you a cheap, separate glo igniter to start with - way better arrangement.

[Newdude]

on my T-maxx it had like a piece of plastic that helped hold the air filter and keep it from swinging around and I was wondering if I had to keep that on or no...Thx

[Newdude]

Ok another question sry about this I just got it but anyways when I'm driving and stop the car will jump forward even though the trigger is in neutral and then I'll hold the brake to stop that and it'll just lurch in it's tracks. I tried doing what they told me to by tuning the idle but we can't get it right it'll either still do the above mentioned or the engine will cut off when I apply the brakes... So is it very finicky or do I need to do something else... Thank you again

[tec_41]

on my T-maxx it had like a piece of plastic that helped hold the air filter and keep it from swinging around and I was wondering if I had to keep that on or no...Thx

Thats called a zip tie. I took mine off just because its hard to remove with it on. Traxxas recommends that you keep a zip tie on the air filter though because if it happens to come off, it can seriously damage your engine.

[TMaxxBenny25]

hey guys i just wanted to say HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! and that for Christmas i got new 40 series road rages and Velocity 6'es. My t Maxx is 16.5 inches wide!
They look awesome !!! Thanks GodBLESS!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

nice benny!!.........I got the rc18t!!!and lil' jons crunk juice album biotch!!!

[Newdude]

Thats called a zip tie. I took mine off just because its hard to remove with it on. Traxxas recommends that you keep a zip tie on the air filter though because if it happens to come off, it can seriously damage your engine.
Thank You yea I took it off to cause it's to hard to put it back on; like you said

[Duster_360]

Go to Walmart - they sell a tube with 600+ zipties of 4 diff sizes for under 5 bucks and spend 5 min to figure out how to zip tie the base of the air cleaner to the carb neck. I use needle nose pliers to get new zip tie tight and wire cutters to cut them off every time I clean the air filter assembly.

If you're running with the body on and take a hard shock, you'll never know the filter came off. By the time you do know your filter is off, you engine is prob toast. Dirt and dust will eat one of these up in a hurry.

In rc there are hundreds of uses for zip ties.

[NitroCrackers]

i know this has probably been asked 8 million tims but, this is freakin large thread so heres my question.... I hear the trx 2.5 likes too run hot and mine is pretty hot itself (reached 278 during my 3rd tank), it must have leaned out cuase the first and second it stayed below 220. whats the best aftermarket head for it? acncm, nova, golden verizon or what? I appreciate the help! and will this make a good pipe or any better suggestions? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFWE9&P=7

Thanks,
Anthony

[rwarner]

they all make good aftermarket cooling heads ,the 1's with a headbutton and heatsink seperate are good ,i like the looks of the mutant heatsink ,,lol
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEJT3&P=7
this 1 look very well built ,,i have ablue aftermarket on the maxx i just got and i would never buy 1 of these ,,
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXETE3&P=7
when i recieved my maxx the top of this 1 was ttally gone and there is only 6 fins left on it ,,either it is junk or the person driving the maxx had no clue how to keep it upright,,,,lol
just a little help
take care ,rick

[Duster_360]

I bash mostly in my back yard in closely cut grass. That causes my Tmaxx to run hotter than it does when I go to the park and run on hard packed dirt. I cut a body up trying to keep mine below 270 on the grass - no help. I knew it was not tuning, so I finally caved and bought a Nova Race Pro head (Ebay). I think he has a website now too. I run 230-250 depending on how hard I'm on the throttle. I like the way the head looks and its 7075-T6 which sheds heat a little better than 6061.

Most of the popular heads will do a good job and drop your temp. Really a matter of which one you like.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Thats awesome tevo racer!!! I cant wait to buy mine because instead of that Santa gave me an X-BoX!!! Thanks GOD BLESS!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

bomb foo'!!!

get a hardcore cooling head, best around!!!

[NitroCrackers]

just bought an acncm head.. this thing is freakin HUGE

[TMaxxBenny25]

I looked at that. Its AWESOME!!! Thanks God Bless

[TMaxxBenny25]

Hi guys I was just bored so I decided to type on this forum! I just wanted everyone to know that if you ever considered to buy a Nitro Monster Truck then buy a T-Maxx. It is the best Nitro Monster truck of them all. Also now that Traxxas came out with a 1:1 scal T-Maxx to complete against Gravedigger and in the UHRSA I think thats what it's called. I just realized that today is my 1 month anniversery on this website!!! Thanks for letting me rant GOD BLESS!!!!!!!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

you got pics of that 1:1 maxx??

Yeah I just come by on the forums when I get bored

its only been a month??? it feels longer!!

[tec_41]

T-EVO, check out www.traxxas.com They have a cool article on the 1:1 maxx

[Prinler]

ok guys im going to purchase a T-max from tower as soon as my tax check gets here. I need to know what all i need to get right away.
obviosly i need gas... but what glow plugs should i get, what kind of batts i need... What upgrades i need right away. i need a glow ignitor? i live in a dusty area... also next to a dry river bed... what about air filters? or paddle tires?

[NitroCrackers]

for upgrades, id go with a big cooling head form www.acncm.com and that should get you good to go.. and it would help ALOT if you bought a temp guage if you dont have one

[TMaxxBenny25]

You need a 7.2 volt battery. A Traxxas Medium glow plugs. No ignitor. A 7.2 volt charger. Stock filter. But get some air filter oil. No paddle tires unless you want those. U might wanna get a set of all terrain pro line tires.

[Prinler]

You need a 7.2 volt battery. A Traxxas Medium glow plugs. No ignitor. A 7.2 volt charger. Stock filter. But get some air filter oil. No paddle tires unless you want those. U might wanna get a set of all terrain pro line tires.
can you link me on towers site for the glow plugs? i cant find any medium ones... thanks... also does the frequency of the the radio also make my truck different colors? i wanted a blue one :) anyone know what freq the blue one is?

[Prinler]

anyone?

[tec_41]

For plugs, These (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJL33&P=7) work fine. And the frequency does affect the color. If you want the blue truck, you should get This (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXPW87A6&P=V). Umm, you could get this Battery (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERB5&P=ML) and a cheap Charger (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL347&P=ML). Thats assuming you don't have all this stuff already, however. And stick with Top Fuel (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJM38&P=ML). Let us know if there's anything else you need

[TMaxxBenny25]

I know that Top Fuel is Traxxas fuel and if u dont get it you will void the warranty but IT DOESNT RUN GOOD!!!a guy i know on here said and i believe him "you would be better off runnin Gatorade in your engine" or somethin like that. Thanks GOD BLESS




PS DONT GET TOP FUEL

[Duster_360]

Different experience - have run nothing but 20% TF and have never had a prob of any kind with over a gal thru one Tmaxx, still going strong. My nitro 4Tec Pro and RTR both use PowerMaster 20% who makes TF for traxxas and no probs there either.

I don't believe you'll void your warranty using another fuel (as long as its got the % oil they recommend) either - they just recommend TF, unless that has changed since I bought mine.

[NitroCrackers]

:D
http://img128.exs.cx/img128/5719/20030122image00017ls.jpg
http://img23.exs.cx/img23/4849/20030122image00036es.jpg
http://img23.exs.cx/img23/9506/20030122image00020qd.jpg
:D

[tec_41]

Naw Benny, that's not true. Whoever said that needs to check their info again. Top fuel will run just as good as any other fuel- Byrons, monster brew, etc.

[Prinler]

hmmm i put gatorade in my maxx and i cant get it to start?









































ok im ordering : a Venom VFS Failsafe Unit, Traxxas Digital Temperature Gauge On Board, 1500mAh 7.2V 6-Cell Flat Standard, Traxxas Fuel Filler Bottle 500cc, Traxxas Nitro T-Maxx RTR Blue A6 27255, Traxxas Heavy Duty Long Glow Plug, Pro-Line Maxx Paddle Front/Rear Truck Tires (2), Air filter oil, Pro-Line Super Single Wheel Chrome T/E-Maxx.... and a extra nice body :) missing anything? i need ANYTHING else? breaks? extra clutch bells? ANYTHING?

[NitroCrackers]

reciever pack

[tec_41]

The truck already comes with a little bottle of air filter oil. And a reciever pack isn't needed, but its definately a good upgrade. Also, order 3 or 4 more glow plugs. You might want 2 six cell packs for the ez start, or a good charger because you will be stuck with a dead battery and not get to run it.

[NitroCrackers]

whoa... the cooling head on my truck makes my engine run around 185 to 200 degrees... WOW and this is while its leaned out for performance :eek: with the stock head, it was running around 190 to 330.. HOLY S**T thats 100 degrees cooler.. im freakin out... oiwaehgvuoisdhbv98aerytoh34tlsfbadoiaehtlewajt9szd fyewkn

[T-EVO RACER]

umm, whoever said that top fuel is just as good as odonell, or other fuels, to me is crazy!!! get odonell or white lighting, top fuel is not that good of fuel, i'm trying to say this nicely, but:
when used top fuel: 3 gallons throught it and it was toast!!
when using odonell:12 gallons and counting and runs really freaken fast!!!!!!!

to me the choice is clear, ODONELL!!!!!!!!!

[JamminJay]

I am thinking about getting a maxx to race, take off the reverse add some good radio equipment and some 40's I know, but how are the arms? should i upgrade with RPM or will they be fine to begin with? Thanx.

[tec_41]

umm, whoever said that top fuel is just as good as odonell, or other fuels, to me is crazy!!! get odonell or white lighting, top fuel is not that good of fuel, i'm trying to say this nicely, but:
when used top fuel: 3 gallons throught it and it was toast!!
when using odonell:12 gallons and counting and runs really freaken fast!!!!!!!

to me the choice is clear, ODONELL!!!!!!!!!

I'm not crazy! Well, usually :p Fuel is fuel...top fuel just supposedly has the right amount of lube and crap you need for the 2.5. Different fuel doesn't make a 9 gallon engine life difference, thats all up to the person who broke it in.

Hey Jay, might I suggest an S-maxx? You get 2 speed, forward only, and optional 4wd for a couple extra bucks. Also comes with racing tires/body. Just a suggestion to save you a few bucks ;)

[T-EVO RACER]

well, when I used it it was crap!! but I say odonell!!!

[Duster_360]

My only observation about Odonnel is the oil they use must be a high %'age castor cause when it dries, it leaves a gummy residue that will plug a carb up really well if you don't clean it out before.

JamminJay - one thing thats not mentioned about RPM arms is you lose your castor adjustment when you change over to them. Not sure I would have done that on one of mine if I'd known beforehand.

[TMaxxBenny25]

I have heard a lot of probs with binding suspensions with the RPM arms. Thanks GOD BLESS!!!!

[Duster_360]

When you mount the RPM arms, you need to do it one at a time, just an upper or a lower and the hinge pin. Now is the time to check for binding and remove or shave nylon/plastic until they move as freely as your original a arms.

[TMaxxBenny25]

I AM MAD!!! :mad: :mad: I live in northren california where it has been raining like for 2 weeks. It's on and off but I barely have any time to run my trucks!! If I can I am only able to run like 1 or 2 packs tops!!! :eek: I have received word that the rain is leaving me on Wednesday and that I will be free to run and have a blast with my trucks!!! :D
Thanks GOD BLESS!!!



P.S. If you can't are ready tell I was bored and mad when I wrote this. :p :p

[TMaxxBenny25]

When I was writing that it said that i had to many smiles so I had to take off like 4 of them! Thanks God Bless!!!

[Monsterbrad]

I AM MAD!!! :mad: :mad: I live in northren california where it has been raining like for 2 weeks. It's on and off but I barely have any time to run my trucks!! If I can I am only able to run like 1 or 2 packs tops!!! :eek: I have received word that the rain is leaving me on Wednesday and that I will be free to run and have a blast with my trucks!!! :D
Thanks GOD BLESS!!!



P.S. If you can't are ready tell I was bored and mad when I wrote this. :p :p
Well try up north its really crappy here snow and rain all the time.
At least you have the sun shine most of the time.....

[tec_41]

No kidding. Yesterday it was 47 F and pouring rain/thunderstorms, tomorrow its going to be a high of 5 F. Talk about a messed up winter ;)

[T-EVO RACER]

yeah but for now its over, socal rocks biotch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

[bullmastiff]

Anybody know if these will fit my proline 40 series dirt hawgs for my maxx????

I can't seem to find anybody that can tell me if they will fit my tires and my truck. I already have the tires. But someone sold me the wrong style rim. I was sold a revo rim as a 40 series rim.

I like the look of these and want to know if they will fit my 40 series dirt hawgs.

outback rims (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=2665&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go)

Any help would be great.

Bryan

[TMaxxBenny25]

No im sorry but they wont fit. Their for the TXT1 only. Unless u wanna mod the axles.

[bullmastiff]

Thanks bro your the first to give me a straight answer on why they won't fit. I guess I'm stuck with getting regular 40 series rims.


Thanks again.


Bryan

[TMaxxBenny25]

no prob anytime.

[baldie]

Is it easy to install a fail safe on the TMaxx 2.5?

[TMaxxBenny25]

Some failsafes take up so much power that it will be hard to get the truck to go far and the radio will glitch but if u have like a 6 v receiver pack that it would be a snap.

[baldie]

Some failsafes take up so much power that it will be hard to get the truck to go far and the radio will glitch but if u have like a 6 v receiver pack that it would be a snap.
So you recommend a 6v reciever pack?

[baldie]

What glow plugs is recommended on a t-maxx? Can these glow plugs work?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJA89&P=ML

[tec_41]

Reciever pack, get one. As for plugs, those won't work. You need a long plug like this- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHPB6&P=7

or this- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJL33&P=ML

[Duster_360]

The one trx recommends for the 2.5 is the 2nd one indicated by tec_41. I use a McCoy plug, but that's just personal preference.

[baldie]

Well the ezstart work with these?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHPB6&P=7

[tec_41]

Yep.

[gtracer32]

hey i need to find some cheap but durable bulkheads. any suggestions would be helpful

[tec_41]

There only 2 kinds of bulkheads you can get: Aluminum, or the plastic ones. Check out ebay for some good deals on aluminum ones, otherwise you can go stocker with rpm braces.

[Duster_360]

Not sure what you consider cheap - these guys have 2 diff sets, one of 6061 and other of 7075 alum, I was given a set ofthe trx ones for my birthday a few yrs back, but I would have considered these

http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/6061_T_6_Bulkheads.cfm

Be sure to look at their 7075 (~twice as strong) bulks too.

[TMaxxBenny25]

im pooped. my tmaxx is in the shop and its not BACK YET!!!! well anyway i guess il just run my rustler till i get it back
THANKS GOD BLESS!!

[rcster3000]

Yo yo yo the T-maxx is tight but mine always has trouble too :( . The steering servo is stripped right now :( . But i'll tell ya it's a total wild ripper...........................I got to race it in the snow and it TORE IT UP :D . I think it I would buy it rather than a revo if I was in the market still......................................... I totally choose the T-maxx over all the other trucks. :cool:

[TMaxxBenny25]

:D sick

[RSBatCRH06]

I’m just clarifying this to myself. If I lower my clutch bell and raise my spur gear I will get a lower gear ratio. I’m thinking like as if it was a bike. The pedal gears are the clutch bell and the wheel gears are the spur gears please someone tell me this is true its bothering me that I don’t know :confused: .

[Duster_360]

Yeah, its always been confusing. Lowering the CB and or raising the spur will give you a higher numerical gear ratio. The effect of the change is talked about as gearing down, it adds more torque and cuts top speed.

If you start with a 20tCB and 42t spur as an example, your ratio is 2.10, changing to an 18tCB keeping the same spur the ratio is now 2.33. The gear ratio went up. Driving it you'll find you have more useable torque, but less top speed. Other way, using 20tCB and now changingto 46t spur, ratio is 2.30 which is higher than original 18/42 (2.10) we started with - same result, more torque, lower top speed. The effect or a gear ratio change has always been talked about in the opposite sense to the numerical change.

[RSBatCRH06]

K thanks I was wondering since I was thinking of making a Makeshift crawler while I’m not racing my t-maxx since the racing season doesn’t start till mid April.

[TMaxxBenny25]

im gonna start racin my t and rusty soon!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

you have a rustler??? what mods??? good luck in your racing

[T-EVO RACER]

We had a big race at my local track crystal park and for once there were trophies on the line. So for my first time I got TQ!!! Then it started my one pal who started racing his revo but hes been racing his tmaxx for a long time, anyway, 20 min main, got 2nd, great trophie, only about 20 seconds behind my pals revo!!! and I was the youngest guy there, everyone in there 20's, 30's, and I'm in my 10's, I'm 13 if your wondering.

[TMaxxBenny25]

NYCE JOB DUDE!!!! As for my Rusty i've got a Novak Explorer 2 ESC, Pro-Line Dirt Works tires all the way around, and i run Venom 3000 batts. For my B-Day on March 9 im gonna get the racing shocks, a new Venom 19 turn, and a Atomik F-150 body. And for my B-Day my maxx is gonna get a Cuda and Rubicon bodies, and more stuff. What do u think i should get for my T?

[nitro syco]

ok I have a T-Maxx 2.5 and it is awsome. Id say chiise it over anything else.. ok story time. the first time I jumped it I wasnt ready for the power it gave because i was not used to jumping with all the power so I pinned it from about 30 feet in front of the jump and it wenta about twice the distance of the jump and I have nob tires si I could not really control it while it was in the air so it landed right on the front bumper again and was fine then I let my friend run it and he did the same thing but landed on the wheels and it was fine. it is awsome bottome line.

[Jobber]

Hey Gang,

I have been searching the forums (With not much luck) trying to learn from T-Maxx owners who have fixxed up their T-Maxx 2.5 trucks into show trucks using Integy, American CNC, Gorilla Maxx or Dynamite parts. It would be great to hear from some of the truck owners who have used those companies and maybe post pictures of your "ultimate" T-Maxx truck and comment on putting your truck together. The web site 2CoolRC.Com (http://www.2coolrc.com/Model_T-Maxx/ultimate.html) sells a Integy Ultimate T-Maxx Upgrade Kit. Has anybody purchased this kit? I would love to hear from you...

Thanks for your time in advance!

J-

[dksu]

can you use a 6v receiver pack in t-maxx? I'm asking b/c when you open the battery box, the switch is pernmanently fixed to the battery holder (4 AA battery holder). The battery switch has no plug to connect the receiver pack. Any suggestions?

[T-EVO RACER]

dksu:I run a reedy 1100mah pack UNDER the chassis where the stock batt. box goes, and then I run my ofna buggy tank where the stock batt. box goes. but hpi makes a 1200mah pack whick I'm gonna start using.

Benny; dude get a bk2 or a b4 with all of those electronic hop ups, IT'LL RUN WAY BETTER! fo' yall T get a crowd pleazer, not a cuda body, cause hpi make some weaka$$ bodies!!!! if not a crowd pleazer, get another proline body!!and what waz with that post in the rc18t forum "123abc"?????

[dksu]

But then where do I plug the receiver pack? Normall, the receiver battery pack plugs into the switch and the switch plugs into the receiver right? But in T-maxx, there is no plug between battery and switch so where am I suppose to plug in my 6v receiver battery pack


[QUOTE=T-EVO RACER]dksu:I run a reedy 1100mah pack UNDER the chassis where the stock batt. box goes, and then I run my ofna buggy tank where the stock batt. box goes. but hpi makes a 1200mah pack whick I'm gonna start using.

[Duster_360]

Buy the rx pac - it will have a plug in connector. Then buy a replacement switch with all plug in connectors with an additional charge lead like this one - I use these in all my nitro rcs - there are others, search on "switch". If you look, the switch mounts with 2 small phillips screws and it will come out. This switch replaces it and once you get it all plugged in, you lead the charge lead outside the box. Then to charge yopu only have to make sure switch is off and plug your charger into the charge lead. Takes about 10 min to make the change. A 1100NiMh HPI rx pac will fit in the stock batt box - its tight, but it fits. Thight is good since it won't be moving around on you while running.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXH462

Another alternative is to go to Ballistic Batteries and buy their rechargeable batt for the Tmaxx - it's already built in to the stock box and has the external charge lead. Replaces the stock batt box. Kinda pricey though. I have one thats almost 2 yr old in one of my Tmaxxes - its 1600mah. I think now they have one smaller (less money) and one larger - like 2300, for more money.

[dksu]

so if I buy the switch with 2 connectors from towerhobbies, will it fit directly into my truck without any connector modications such as soldering, adapters, etc? Also, I have a ofna 1400nimh receiver pack, will it fit into this connector on the switch?


Buy the rx pac - it will have a plug in connector. Then buy a replacement switch with all plug in connectors with an additional charge lead like this one - I use these in all my nitro rcs - there are others, search on "switch". If you look, the switch mounts with 2 small phillips screws and it will come out. This switch replaces it and once you get it all plugged in, you lead the charge lead outside the box. Then to charge yopu only have to make sure switch is off and plug your charger into the charge lead. Takes about 10 min to make the change. A 1100NiMh HPI rx pac will fit in the stock batt box - its tight, but it fits. Thight is good since it won't be moving around on you while running.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXH462

Another alternative is to go to Ballistic Batteries and buy their rechargeable batt for the Tmaxx - it's already built in to the stock box and has the external charge lead. Replaces the stock batt box. Kinda pricey though. I have one thats almost 2 yr old in one of my Tmaxxes - its 1600mah. I think now they have one smaller (less money) and one larger - like 2300, for more money.

[Duster_360]

dksu - that's the way it will work. I'm sitting here with the stock batt box and the Futaba switch (I prefer the futaba one, costs a little more) and everything will work that way unless they've changed the Tmaxx batt box. Ck to be sure there are still 2 small phillips head screws - long as it has the screws, this will be a drop in mod (as long as you're starting with a stock Tmaxx) - no soldering, no adapters, just unplug, remove old, install new and plug it in.

If the 1400 is the same 2/3c size cells (mine are all 1200's), it will fit, it will be tight on the sides, but it will fit. There's plenty of room long ways.

Do remember, to charge using the new charge lead, the switch must be off! When the switch is on, charge lead has power (I use this to check conditioon of batt with my rx batt checker). Switch off, no power on charge lead, will charge batt if attached to charger. Its far more simple than explaining it. If I can help, lmk. This is a great mod - no more alkalines and no more opening the batt box worrying about pinching the wires!!!

[dksu]

duster thanks a bunch :)

dksu - that's the way it will work. I'm sitting here with the stock batt box and the Futaba switch (I prefer the futaba one, costs a little more) and everything will work that way unless they've changed the Tmaxx batt box. Ck to be sure there are still 2 small phillips head screws - long as it has the screws, this will be a drop in mod (as long as you're starting with a stock Tmaxx) - no soldering, no adapters, just unplug, remove old, install new and plug it in.

If the 1400 is the same 2/3c size cells (mine are all 1200's), it will fit, it will be tight on the sides, but it will fit. There's plenty of room long ways.

Do remember, to charge using the new charge lead, the switch must be off! When the switch is on, charge lead has power (I use this to check conditioon of batt with my rx batt checker). Switch off, no power on charge lead, will charge batt if attached to charger. Its far more simple than explaining it. If I can help, lmk. This is a great mod - no more alkalines and no more opening the batt box worrying about pinching the wires!!!

[dksu]

Hey Duster, can you please help me out again. I'm sorry i'm throwing all these newbie questions. I just bought a mrc 959 to charge my ofna 6v receiver pack. But I found out that the mrc 959 came only with tamiya connector. Do you know of any adapter, simple plug in without any soldering, cutting, etc, that will allow me to charge my ofna receiver pack? thank you.

[TMaxxBenny25]

HEY T-EVO racer! I have 2 problems with your suggestions about getting a new BK2 or B4. First I want a stadium truck, and second I CAN'T AFFORD THOSE!!! I could ask for 1 for my B-DAY but i want an RC18T! I dunno what to do?! I feel so stupid. I think ill just race my Rusty and get the RC18T. I dunno maybe I should get a T4 or a BK2. SOME1 HELP MEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[buggyman17]

i say the rc18t. bu tu wont take my advice ben. u should. im gettin one soon.

[buggyman17]

oops
my spanglish came into effect there. sry evry1

[Duster_360]

dksu - I went to MRC's site and they claim to be able to charge rx and tx batt pacs, but show no adapters. What you need is a tamiya male to futaba J female connector.

I spent 10min or so on tower looking and can't find anything ready made. I can find the rx batt end, but it has banana plugs on the other end. Tower sells the connectors and you could get a servo extension and with a little cutting and soldering, have what you need.

I was not aware the 959 came with a tamiya fem connection hardwired as its only connection. Got to your lhs and see if they have something ready made. Maybe try a post in the RC electronics thread here to see what others with a 959 do to solve this prob?? Sorry I couldn't be of more help

[T-EVO RACER]

Yeah I'd get the rc18t, its my anytime car, a t4 you have to maintain too much and batteries don't last as long,plus the rc18t will kill your rustler!!!!

[Duster_360]

dksu - I think I may have found something for you to use - look at item 2574 here, I wish they would show a pic of it,you may want to call them, Suspect you could get what you want from these guys. Good luck

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-4.html

[TMaxxBenny25]

Im takin my suty down to chowchilla to DAY MY dad has an almond orhcard there ITS GONNA BE SICK !!!

[TMaxxBenny25]

RUSTY** i will get the RC18T

[TMaxxBenny25]

I was out runin my MAXX. THIS THING IS SO DARN COOL !!! i love this truck.

[T-EVO RACER]

yeah, mine has all the factory team hop ups and with a reedy modified and matched cells this thang is stupid speed!

[TMaxxBenny25]

yaeh but reedy has hella expensive stuff. There is stuff out there thats wayyy cheaper!

[WDGuy]

What is a good inexpensive drop in motor for the 2.5 . And should I get RPM arms or aluminum arms for a racer.

[R/Cbum4life]

I had a nasty run in with a tree today guys. I was going full speed down the street and clipped a tree trying to bend the curve into my driveway!!! I broke my rpm front bumper with ease, as well as sheering off many of the screws on the bottom side. I think I might have bent an aluminum bulkhead too, has anyone ever done that? those bulkheads seem pretty strong, but If i did bend mine I am going to be ticked, I am posting this not to brag about my amazing smash up, but am wondering if indeed someone has broke aluminum bulks in the past. BTW, I am not a big fan or RPM's warranty policy, It kind of sux that I have to send it back in to them to get a new one, Why can't I just go through the hobby shop?

[R/Cbum4life]

oh yeah, one more thing, I put my traxxas 2055 servo in for a throttle/brake servo and it works way better! I totally dig the braking power I now have. I can lock em up and skid big time!!

[Duster_360]

Depends on your definition of inexpensive - Fantom FR18 ($150) is a good motor but will not hold a candle to the OS 18TM ($220) which right now is prob the best motor out there for a dropin. The Picco 21 is also a dropin, but I've read a lot of complaints about tuning issues with it and you're going to have to deal with drive train upgrades if you go 21.

I made the choice to go RPM - when you do have a bad enough crash, the alum will bend and you'll never get it right again short of replacing. RPM will take the hit, flex and then come back. In unlikely event you do break the RPM arms, lifetime replacement policy covers you there.

R/Cbum4life - there are at least 4 grades of alum out there that's being used for parts like bulks. If you bent some of the 7075 ones, I'd be ticked too. If you bent the 5052 ones, then don't be too surprised, they're soft and are expected to bend. I've read about of plenty of bent bulks, so join the crowd. I smaked a concrete block and took the right side front off - but that was when I was still all stock plastic - arms, shocks, bulk, skid, skid backplate and hinge pins.

[R/Cbum4life]

the bulkheads appear to have made it, they are not bent But I did shear three shatty traxxas screws heads off, which in turn now makes 3 of the holes unusable. I looked at drilling em out, but that is going to be tuff given the size of the screw and the fact that even If I get them Out, I will probably have to re-tap the holes. That would not be an easy proccess. The bulks I have are kind of crappy anyways, they came with the thing when I bought it used quite some time ago, I dont even know what kind they are, but whoever sold me the truck on ebay was making them, along with a few other al parts. THe more I think about the likelihood of this happening again, the more I think I am just going to put some cheapy stock plastic ones on it.. I would rather have those flex and break before my al chassis braces, ti skid's, servo, all that stuff gets broken!! Here is to traxxas and their crappy design, those bulkheads really kind of suck!!! Other than that the truck is great though.

[R/Cbum4life]

I forgot to mention the fact that I bent the chassis a good one too, the front little tabs that attach to the bulkheads were all bent and twisted. I forgot to ask how many of you do run plastic bulks on the front just for this reason? I have some pics, and I'll try to post em later on.....

[TMaxxBenny25]

THAT Was A BAD ACCIDENT!!!!!!!!!!

[WDGuy]

Well I want a engine with more power then the 2.5, I dont really like the 2.5 anyways. I need to get someone thats good at tuning to tune it in for me seeing how this is my first nitro, and Im not very experienced with tuning these in.

[TMaxxBenny25]

Get a Fantom 18 or a OS 18 they are the best!

[R/Cbum4life]

heres some photos, now If I could just get those sheered screws out of my bulkhead... I got one out, tried to drill another, and didn't touch the last one. Can anyone identify what kind of bulks these are by the photos, look close, I have one of them with an emblem on them...

[R/Cbum4life]

more...

[R/Cbum4life]

more. this one photo per post is lame!!!

[R/Cbum4life]

note the twist, that is all bend in the chassis!!

[R/Cbum4life]

okay, here is the emblem/logo on them, what brand is this?

[Duster_360]

Yep those bulks are by Greater Assembly RC, that is their logo,

http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/6061_T_6_Bulkheads.cfm -

They make 6061 an 7075 grade alum bulks, not sure how to tell them apart. I use stock bulks on one Tmaxx (basically near stock) and my lightweight Tmaxx uses trx alum bulks which are real soft from what I've heard. They were a gift otherwise they wouldn't be there.

Maybe when you get it apart some of the busted screws will extend enough you can get them out with visegrips. The broken screws on the bottom that hold the skip plate - looks like you've got enough exposed to slot them with a cutting wheel on a dremel and back them out with a flat bald.

As bad a wreck as that looks to be, the high strength 12.9 screws prob wouldn't have helped. Maybe now you can consider upgrading the chassis. I'd also consider a screw kit and at least get hex heads or the high strenght hex screws, but def get rid of the trx phillips stuff.

[R/Cbum4life]

thanks for identifying them. Here is the deal with the screws, I got one of them out, which was stainless (I had all stainless holding them to the chassis, 8 total, 4 in front, 4 in back) and two stainless ones holding the skids to the chassis braces ( I bought a package of 8 to try so I burned em there). The other remaining sheered screws are in the bottom of the bulks, you can see one, the other one is in that same bulkhead but I tried to drill it out before I took that photo. Drilling it kind of worked aside from the fact that I did not use the right size bit (I did this on purpose, i wasnt sure that i wanted to destroy the threads yet) and now that I drilled it, the threads of the old screw are still stuck in the bulkhead, so it looks smooth down that hole. I thought about getting a thread tapper and putting new threads down there, but I have to drill it a little larger first. Plus if the threads get a little sloppy, which I have seen happen in the past, the screws probably won't stay in the bulkheads anyhow.

For the other one, I considered taking the dremel to but it doesnt look like that is going to work. The discs are much too big to do this with and there just isnt enough good screw left to do it too. I was thinking my only chance is to get one of those left hand turning drill bits (they have a name for them) that will grip the screw and back it out. If that does not work they may be junk!!! I still think I like the idea of leaving the plastics up front.

If I go to all hardened, stainless, or stronger than stock screws I am worried that I will just break the aluminum anyways, You think this may be true? Plus I hate hex heads!!! they always seem easier to strip and along with that I am too cheap to buy a good set of hex head drivers. Those stainless ones I had I still managed to strip a few just trying to get them back out. What do you all think?? I think Id rather break a few more stock plastic bulks for 6-7 dollars per run in then do this again!

[Duster_360]

I have a set of ss screws too - they are not the strong ones (grade 12.9), and your prob with the heads stripping is your tools. I invested about $50 in a 2mm and a 2.5mm hardened drivers and I have yet to strip a head even in the somewhat soft ss screws. Thing you need to do with non-hardened drivers is frequently grind new tips - they wear and then slip. Dremel makes thin enough cutoff wheels - I use a #426 to slot those little screws in the skids with no trouble.

Depending on how badly you want to try to save those bulks, helicoils will let you fix the ones you have to drill out bigger, but a kit will set you back about $55. I went thru this to save the $75 hardened alum strg knuckles on my 1/8th buggy. After helicoil repair you'll have the orig metric size, but the only way is a kit - can't buy what you need separately cheaper and you need all the tools that come with the kit. Might not be worth all the trouble/money. If you do, the only place for heilicoils is www.northstate.com - he is everybodys supplier, so might as well get it from the source.

Lots run plastic bulks in the front and alum in the rear or not at all. When you start upping engine size, this is less of an option. I guess I've gotten to be a little better driver and I don't have a feel for what will break with the stronger screws- not had a bad crash since I've started using them.

One big complaint about alum - esp bulks where there are so many screws is the broken and stripped screws like you're dealing with. It's common unfortunately and a major PIA too.

[TMaxxBenny25]

That must ahve been a awesoem crash!

[R/Cbum4life]

I agree with what duster said. I think I am going to just throw them aluminum bulks in the ol parts box for now. I thought the plastic bumper mounts would have enough give to em, but the skidplate was too heavily involved in the impact to be a factor. Funny thing is I am not even that bad of a driver, I have been at this for years. I took the maxx out for the first time in about 2 months (its been snowing and I've been busy) and decided I would try to shave a real sharp turn from the street over a snow bank on the side of the road then through the grass and back into my driveway. I knew the tree was there (right in the middle of the yard) and was planning to turn sharp enough that I wouldn't hit it. I guess I miscalculated... and let me tell you, IT HAPPENED REAL FAST!!! I just wish it would have been something cooler, like hitting some monster jump and landing face first on the nose. I managed to break a couple cooling fins on my 2.5 from landing upside down one time, that was pretty cool.

[TMaxxBenny25]

I've flipped my T-Maxx 2.5 more times than i can count on my fingers and toes(IM NOT A BAD DRIVER!!!) and i havent broken any fins. I dont even run the head guard cause i lost it(he he he). I guess im lucky.
THNX GOD BLESS!!!!!

[TMaxxBenny25]

Anyone here seen that new Kyosho Mini 777??? Thats what i want. Looks like a sick buggy!!! Cant wait till april first!!!!!

[TMaxxBenny25]

I was just thinkin so im bored. i think ill just rant about t-maxxes on here. i just was at my lhs and one of the guys ther was tellin aobut how he was at a local track and how a tmaxx was beatin on a revo and some savages. Plus i learned that 1 of my 3 LHS is building a track pretty close to me.

[WDGuy]

do yall think the tmaxx can hold up to the new SH .28 with 3.6HP.

[TMaxxBenny25]

NO. It was had aluminum parts and the stock plastic arms. It was runnin the 2.5 tho.

[TMaxxBenny25]

TRX 2.5 that is !

[WDGuy]

beany, can you tell me that again in english.

[TMaxxBenny25]

His truck had the TRX 2.5 stock engine in it when he whooped on the crappy revos!

[GT Freak]

Got my first run in with my maxx .....had to have the body off, cause the starter wire kept fallin off... :mad: But i did get to run it a little....heres a pic :p

Need to find away to keep that wire on... :confused:

Also, is a locked diff better for bashing :confused:
if not, why :confused:

[buggyman17]

sweet. nice pic. what were you doin???? it looks like you flipped it in the snow, but its pretty hard to flip a maxx and its definitely not good for the electronics.

[TMaxxBenny25]

When you lock a diff its usually for rockcrawling, hill climbing, drag racing, or pulling stuff. If u plan on bashing i would just go unlocked. My .02 cents

[tec_41]

A locked differential will make your handling suffer, because both wheels will be spinning at the same rate. For hill climbing and such, like benny said, it helps a lot. But for bashing, leave it unlocked.

And for that glow plug wire falling off, I would invest in a glow ignitor. They will provide quicker starts and you can lose that wire that tends to fail.
Links for ignitors- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=glow+starter&FVPROFIL=++

[Duster_360]

The blue wire almost takes a pair of needle nose pliers to get it clipped fully back on the glowplug - if yours keep falling off, you're prob not getting it put all the way back on - its a PIA to get it all the way back on.

I have a pr of Tmaxxs and ditched the blue wire on both after less than 2 months and got a separate glo igniter - way better, starts better and ez start batt lasts longer. There have been a lot of probs with the glo igniter side of the ezstart anyway (go over to trx boards), so you're prob just heading off that prob by converting to a separate igniter.

[jay672]

Hey every1 my nephew just got a tmaxx and i dont have much knowledge on this truck. Was wondering what absolute first upgrades would be. I know i have arevo and its had some suspenion issues but not sure on the Tmaxx. Thanks for your help these boards have been great every1 is real helpful, alot of boards come down on the newbies but ive heard it said here and ill say it we were all newbies once and i think ill be anewbie forever...lol thanks again

[tec_41]

First see what breaks, then upgrade. Ususally the bulkheads are the first to go, so maybe some aluminum ones. I use rpm skid/wear plates and rpm bulkhead braces to toughen up the front end.

[GT Freak]

ok, so how do i "unlock" a diff :confused: