T-Maxx 2.5 forum [Archive] - Page 3

Duster_360

02-16-2005, 11:27 PM

jay672 - I'd get some rechargeable AAs for the transmitter - 2000-2300mah nickel metal or NiMh batteries, a receiver hump pac, and a new switch with a charge lead. Also going to need a charger to charge these, unless you have one already. Hump pac preferred over 4 AAs for the receiver since its 6v vs 4.8 from 4 rechargeables. Will save in the long haul over replacing alkalines about every couple of hours.

If you're still running the stock servos and stock tires and wheels, upgrade the strg servo to a Hitec 645MG servo with a Kimbrough 124 servo saver. Will make the tmaxx turn so much better, it'll be like driving another truck. Take the old strg servo and swap it with the throttle/brake servo and use its 80in-oz of torque instead of the 40 in-oz there now. Sounds like alot of work, but its a couple of hrs to a lot better driving truck.

RPM parts come with lifetime warranty, so when you break anything, try to replace it with RPM, it will prob be the last time.

GT Freak

02-17-2005, 01:42 AM

for all u MAXX freaks, heres a AWSOME stand that can be built for under $10

http://wisconsinnitro.com/content.php?content.5 :)

so i CANT unlock the rear diff now??? gggrrrrrr

GT Freak

02-17-2005, 01:44 AM

heres a pic of the stand

Duster_360

02-17-2005, 01:13 PM

Depends on what you did to lock it - if it was sily putty, then yea, you can unlock it - just clean the silly putty out. If it was JB Weld, prob need to get another one - go look on ebay, I bought a new, complete spare for $12.

That stand has been around - i got the plan on trx board about 2 yrs ago, nice cheap stand though.

Newdude

02-18-2005, 10:06 PM

Do the roll cages that you can buy can you put a body over them and are these roll cages mainly for rock crawling or for racing/bashing.

buggyman17

02-19-2005, 01:06 PM

you can use them for both but i would recommend not getting one of your going to race. those are built for durability and wont help you in racing much. i would say for bashing cause when i bash with tmaxxbenny, his maxx always needs repairs. jk. i would recommend the roll cage if your a hard core basher. :D

GT Freak

02-20-2005, 12:22 AM

well, i got the diff used...it was set up for a 24.7 conversion. im guessing it was gonna be a puller...not sure tho

Newdude

02-20-2005, 08:06 PM

Thx for the help

buggyman17

02-21-2005, 12:20 AM

ur welcome. do you hav the maxx yet?? or are you planning on getting one and all these hop-ups already?

TMaxxBenny25

02-21-2005, 01:58 AM

Buggyman. I HAVENT BROKEN ANYTHING! Unlike your weak little B4! Pathetic little wimp broke his bulkhead. he ran into a tire. Man Buggydude cant drive. JK
Im just messin with yo head.

BishopRyan

02-21-2005, 02:17 PM

ive got a stock S-Maxx and love it but i was wondering about the handling im a semi-decent driver ive lowered it as much as i can in stock form. but i got the s-maxx thinking i dont need 4wd but ive noticed that the ride handles real loose unstable a bit on higher speed runs bouncy almost i was wondering if 4wd would help make the ride more stable(more controlable and extra weight up front) or maybe a sway bar i can do ok with it stock but unless its in tall grass my kids have had trouble driving it and im tired of replacing parts. i dont expect it to handle like a 1/8 buggy but if there is anything that you guys might think would help let me know thanks alot for any feedback

TMaxxBenny25

02-21-2005, 09:23 PM

read the v3 tmaxx forum mr ryan. i think i answered your question.
God Bless!

BishopRyan

02-22-2005, 09:58 AM

thanks benny

TMaxxBenny25

02-22-2005, 07:37 PM

NP thats what im here for.... ;) ;)

Newdude

02-22-2005, 09:22 PM

How much weight does the aluminum tranny take off...and what are some good upgrades I was thinking of a new engine head and aluminum tranny...Thank you

PrimeTom

02-23-2005, 11:56 AM

This is a great thread.I am going to build that stand today.how bout a TMAXX show off contest?

BishopRyan

02-23-2005, 12:59 PM

ok i made some adjustments and ran this morning i think i figured out my prombem ive got excellent steering with the 645mg and i installed a sping loaded servo saver but when i turn it i cant get the servo to rebound back to neutral or straight so when i turn the truck holds its turn until i correct back hence making it difficult to drive with out it naturally return back to a straight line im all over the road recorrecting. i figured the spring loaded servo saver would help me out here ive tried three different servo savers thinking maybe one was bad but no luck i hope someone has some good advice for me thanks

PrimeTom

02-23-2005, 02:19 PM

I did the stand IT CAME OUT GREAT!!!!!!!Thanks GT FREAK
I had the same trouble with the servo saver.I tried a Kimrough and a Dynamite with my 645mg No Luck I ended up just using an aluminum arm with proline steerink kit(has built in servo saver) works great.

BishopRyan

02-23-2005, 02:44 PM

ill look into that i hope its not to expensive

BishopRyan

02-23-2005, 02:49 PM

pro-line steering kit for the maxx is discontinued

PrimeTom

02-23-2005, 02:52 PM

ill look into that i hope its not to expensive

PROLINE STEERING KIT $34
HI TEC ALUMINUM ARM $8
ITS WELL WORTH IT THOUGH

PrimeTom

02-23-2005, 02:53 PM

Some Ebay Stores Still Have It

TMaxxBenny25

02-23-2005, 10:24 PM

Man thats a bummer... I just want the Hitec SRX and SPEKTRUM ....(drooling over high tech radio stuff)

BishopRyan

02-24-2005, 09:44 AM

i checked the radio and reciever on a buggy of mine and i used a different radio on my maxx the radio on the buggy worked great and the buggy radio on my maxx still gave me the same problem i really just think the servo saver im using isnt strong enough to bring me back to staight neutral so i did find a proline steering kit thats got a big spring servo saver im pretty sure its what you guys are talking about kinda like the one thats on my hotbodies 1/8 buggy i hope it works i should have it in a few days. thats the only thing i can think of. thanks TMaxxBenny25 and PrimeTom for the advice is was the last one stormerhobbies had.

TMaxxBenny25

02-25-2005, 06:43 PM

Today i get to go to my grandma's house and drive around with her neighbor and his Revo. I know that i am gonna smoke him and I have to get some drivin in before the rain supposedly comes this Sunday... Im so pissed about the dumb rain. I wish i was in an rc paradice where there were huge tracks and infinite fuel with no rain and hot trophy girls. JK lol.

BishopRyan

02-26-2005, 10:06 AM

so ok i just broke down and bought a airtronics high torque servo for about a c-note and wow problem solved i am very impressed with this servo is cost alot but wow then i moved my hitec 645mg to the throttle and everything is great ill just couple the proline steering kit with the airtronics now so i guess you get what you pay for.

T-EVO RACER

02-26-2005, 10:37 AM

yeah I know this rain is a pain!

TMaxxBenny25

02-28-2005, 08:02 PM

I hate rain. The weather lady said rain all day. Guess what?? Nothin but sun.....
i just dont know how those people have jobs...

TMaxxBenny25

03-02-2005, 10:39 PM

I jsut got a lot of rain here last night. A day late. :mad: I cant believe it. I was just wonderin what are your guy's opinions on the HITEC SRX??

buggyman17

03-02-2005, 11:29 PM

it sux ben. dont get it. jk

buggyman17

03-02-2005, 11:30 PM

and yes. the rain really sucked. i would run my b4 if i had a spare rear A-arm and and i had gotten my factory team parts in...

buggyman17

03-02-2005, 11:32 PM

if only i had an M8...

TMaxxBenny25

03-03-2005, 05:56 PM

looks like we all depreesed in the west... :sad:

TMaxxBenny25

03-06-2005, 03:07 PM

No more rain here!!! Its been all sn YEAH!!!:D :D :D

Newdude

03-07-2005, 01:04 PM

what do you guys believe the best radio for a tmaxx is and I would prefer it be synethesized..and under 250...thx

TMaxxBenny25

03-07-2005, 02:18 PM

GO for a Hitec SRX with the Spectra module. Its cheap too! www.hitecrcd.com

PrimeTom

03-09-2005, 07:42 PM

I JUST GOT A 3pm futaba.Its great and easy to setup and use.

PrimeTom

03-09-2005, 07:44 PM

Dyin to take my Maxx out :mad: Weather keeps changin in South Jersey.was nice Monday,snow yesterday ,freezing today. Gimme a break already :(

jay672

03-09-2005, 07:51 PM

Dyin to take my Maxx out :mad: Weather keeps changin in South Jersey.was nice Monday,snow yesterday ,freezing today. Gimme a break already :(
Same here but its supposed to clear up so im hopefull

PrimeTom

03-09-2005, 07:54 PM

Same here but its supposed to clear up so im hopefull

YOU FROM JERSEY TOO?

T-EVO RACER

03-10-2005, 11:20 PM

the jrxs3 radio, sythesized, under 250, howz it benny??

TMaxxBenny25

03-11-2005, 07:41 PM

The pro version gives yo better stuff. and it looks better. I think its a good choice but its not SPeKTRUM compatible.

rcguy132

03-14-2005, 02:40 PM

How much would you pay for a tmaxx w/a max.21 in it, 8 silver springs, six red, and a battery and charger?

BishopRyan

03-14-2005, 03:40 PM

depending on condition or any other hop-ups 235.00 maybe a little less or a little more

jay672

03-14-2005, 03:46 PM

depending on condition or any other hop-ups 235.00 maybe a little less or a little more
I agree with Ryan about the 200 mark. A new one even without that different motor is only 370 at tower and they are running a special 25 bucks off any order over 250

ILuvMyB4

03-15-2005, 12:30 AM

it sounds like a pretty good truck to me. i also agree with ryans pricing.

GT Freak

03-15-2005, 12:52 PM

How would u make a "PRO" or "TEAM" t-maxx :confused:

rcguy132

03-15-2005, 03:10 PM

why bother?

TMaxxBenny25

03-16-2005, 10:49 PM

The T-Maxx is the best so "why bother". Well... I would put on the tuned pipe, The aluminum engine mount, and some other traxxas hop ups. But i would get some feedback from owners first.

Jhstud50

03-17-2005, 09:13 PM

:confused: Will the O.S. Max .21 VZ-B V-Spec-T fit the 2.5 T-Maxx without a .21 conversion kit? Also, what other engines are recommended for higher top end?

TMaxxBenny25

03-19-2005, 09:24 PM

Go for a sirio 23 beacuse that one OS wont work. i dont think it will. I dunno. I am not firing on all 8 today.

punkrockracer

03-20-2005, 09:21 PM

Need inexpensive drop-in engine! Blew my engine to hell today, was running too hot becuase I rolled it and it stripped the screws of the head out of the block so there was a .005mm gap between the block and the head enough to overheat the hell out of it and crack the block. I don't really need much more speed/power than the 2.5 gave me, but more torque to give me killer wheelies would be nice. I don't have much money, so anything inexpensive, but quality enough to hold a tune and not piss me off.

T-EVO RACER

03-24-2005, 11:12 PM

breaking in a trx2.5R tommorrow on my local tracks on road coarse!!! when its done getting broken in a tuned, I'm going for a wheelie down the straight!!

TMaxxBenny25

03-25-2005, 06:31 PM

I thought the only difference between the TRX 2.5R and the w.5 was the head. Will that alone loet u do wheelies cause my 2.5 doesnt.

XTCRacing

03-26-2005, 07:43 PM

Your 2.5 doesn't do wheelies? Mine does wheelies even when I don't want it to and I'm on my 3rd gallon and still running strong....

XTCRacing

03-26-2005, 07:49 PM

T-EVO RACER

03-27-2005, 01:29 PM

theres a huge difference benny, the piston a sleeve a different and the head, but I'm using my hardcore cooling head. going to the offroad track today to get it tuned for the race out in revelations in ontario the "airtronics race"

Newdude

03-28-2005, 06:40 PM

what upgrade should i get for my maxx i already have a rpm head protector thing..and make suggestions that are under a 100 dollars unless u think it would really help thx u guys...

Oh i just got to jump my Maxx of a ramp...it was a lot of fun... and have any of u gone to Tmaxx freaks bashathon? it sounds pretty cool kind of far away from me though

XTCRacing

03-28-2005, 07:01 PM

If I were you I would stay away from all the aluminum parts like a-arms etc...they look nice but after everything is installed it makes the truck to heavy and they do bend...I had an all aluminum T-maxx and found it just wasn't worth the money after everything is said and done...but that's just me...some good upgrades to do though would be the Robinson Racing double disck slipper kit, RR high performance brake kit, tuned exhaust,better servos and get rid of the battery box and get a rechargeable battery pack...that's all the upgrades I have on one of my maxxes and it's probably my favorite one to bash with...hope this helps you

Newdude

03-28-2005, 09:40 PM

http://www.2coolrc.com/Model_T-Maxx/exhaust.html are any of these pipes...thx for ur help i appreciate it

rcster3000

03-28-2005, 11:04 PM

Haven't I told ya'll already don't worry about fixin up your cars all nice and pretty cuz if that dang thing breaks ya'll wont have any money to fix it. You should be happy you got a truck to race or play with cuz I no how it feels when your nice,fancy,fast truck breaks and trust me you dont want that to happen.
well I hope I have told yall well and................GO RACE

TMaxxBenny25

03-29-2005, 05:52 PM

Thats good advice!

XTCRacing

03-29-2005, 07:27 PM

http://www.2coolrc.com/Model_T-Maxx/exhaust.html are any of these pipes...thx for ur help i appreciate it

I have that slimline rear dual exhaust on one of mine and I like it alot....as for those others, you still need to buy their header which is like another 20 bucks...

astainback

03-29-2005, 08:37 PM

Guys,
I bought the Fantom exhaust, and I have a mounting question..

Does anyone have this pipe, and did you have to cut your 2.5 header to get the pipe to fit behind the Rx box??

thanks,
adrian

aml48

03-29-2005, 08:39 PM

My wife keeps telling my to leave my fantom pipe alone! lol

CrazyMaxx

03-29-2005, 10:09 PM

I noticed that Hobby People doesn't have the xtm kit anymore as of yesterday which really sucks because I just got the money for it today. Talk about frustration. Anyone know where all to find this kit? I saw it at Stormer Hobbies but they are asking 15 dollars more than Hobby People was. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

CrazyMaxx

03-29-2005, 10:16 PM

Btw, I just saw that the kit is not in stock at Stormer now. Jeez. Pleaze help. lol

astainback

03-30-2005, 08:43 PM

Guys,
I bought the Fantom exhaust, and I have a mounting question..

Does anyone have this pipe, and did you have to cut your 2.5 header to get the pipe to fit behind the Rx box??

thanks,
adrian

Ok, does anyone know anyone that has this pipe and if they did any mods to fit it easier?
It will fit, but the pipe is up against the header... i thought that was bad...

TMaxxBenny25

04-01-2005, 06:01 PM

I think it fits without any mods. I dunno.

Newdude

04-01-2005, 06:28 PM

do u know the stock weight for the shocks because mine are getting a air bubble in the front shocks...
Thx

GT Freak

04-02-2005, 03:32 PM

jay672

04-02-2005, 03:48 PM

im having a prob withmy maxx.
When i give it throttle, i hear a clicking noise. Im not sure where its coming from either. Has anyone else had this prob?? What can be done to fix it( besides throwing money at it) lol :o
Is it hesitating and making the noise at low speeds?? If it is thats normal only way to get rid of it is forward only conversion. Dunno if this helps

daveo

04-02-2005, 10:23 PM

Ok, does anyone know anyone that has this pipe and if they did any mods to fit it easier?
It will fit, but the pipe is up against the header... i thought that was bad...

Mine fit just fine. I did however need to change the way the wire was bent that holds the pipe to the chassis. It is longer than the stock pipe but it fits fine!

Newdude

04-03-2005, 07:36 PM

does anyone know the stock shock weight fluid plz help...

daveo

04-03-2005, 11:01 PM

does anyone know the stock shock weight fluid plz help...

Stock fluid is 30wt

1215maxx

04-04-2005, 04:48 PM

I have a new T-maxx and am getting sick after each run having to clean the entire right rear side. I have the stock pipe ( will upgrade later ) but is there any way of re routing the exhaust from the pipe outlet ? Silicon piping? Just a small distance, maybe straight down...

Thanks in advance !

Duster_360

04-04-2005, 05:46 PM

Nothing elimiantes the mess totally, but when I started using one of these on my Maxx, it helped a lot. Mines pointed at the ground so it won't cause the aste oil to accumulate in the exhaust.

Wipe the exhaust tip with denat alcohol to get the oil off before puttin the deflector on and use both zip ties to secure it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD636&P=ML

nitro_newbie

04-04-2005, 10:54 PM

well i wanted to know if i had to change the tranny gears wen i go big block to all metal or can i just have the slipper a little looser than i have now i have an smaxx but since it its almost the same thing i think i should ask guys that might have if not already done the conversion?also any other advice would be great also wat would be a good inexpensive motor to usu with good power. i was think of the xtm .247 or the sh .28.

well thanx

nitro~newbie

astainback

04-04-2005, 11:10 PM

Holy crap you will not believe what that fantom pipe did to the 2.5!!!
It was so much more power it blew my mind.
I bought an airsaver today to let it "breath" a little bit better.
I will let you know how it does after I get a new motor mount to replace the broken one.
haha
adrian

punkrockracer

04-05-2005, 09:23 PM

How does the Wasp .18 or the XTM .18 fare in the T-maxx? Wanting to get out of this cheaply as possible, but if I have to I will spend the money on the O.S. .18 CR-VX Slide...but that's more moolah to drop into the thing than I want to spend.

GT Freak

04-06-2005, 01:56 AM

I just stripped a brand new spur gear :mad: now i am wonderng, what can i do to prevent this from happening again :confused:

TMaxxBenny25

04-06-2005, 08:24 PM

If u tried to put the XTm 18 in the Tmaxx its not worth the effort.
Next time loosen up the slipper a trun or 2

RespirologyRC

04-06-2005, 09:01 PM

"I have a new T-maxx and am getting sick after each run having to clean the entire right rear side. I have the stock pipe ( will upgrade later ) but is there any way of re routing the exhaust from the pipe outlet ? Silicon piping? Just a small distance, maybe straight down...

Thanks in advance !"

I solved this problem in 4 minutes! I placed silicone around the exhaust (this is where the header/manifold attaches), and I also placed silicone around the coupler area (on both sides of the coupler). The silicone I use is the same that I use to seal my engines so it is safe to use. Not only does it seal my engine nice, but I also get a boost in performance because i now have a good exhaust seal that creates better back pressure and all that jazz

punkrockracer

04-07-2005, 05:08 PM

Haven't done anything yet, destroyed my engine a weekish ago...looking for cheap alternatives to the 2.5 or cheap upgrades to the 2.5. XTM seems to be out of the question, so does the Wasp .18 hold up better? I'd rather not spend $200 on a new engine, but it seems like they are the only ones preforming well.

TMaxxBenny25

04-07-2005, 06:48 PM

How about a new piston and sleeve for the TRX 2.5? That might be the way I go. Or a cheap .18 is the Fantom drop in for the Maxx series.

punkrockracer

04-07-2005, 09:00 PM

The engine is dead, block is cracked and the crankshaft is bent. I haden't asked about Fantom yet due to it being a little more expensive than I would want, but..how does it preform compared to the 2.5?

nitro_newbie

04-07-2005, 09:27 PM

why is the xtm .18 not a good engine to drop in and can some one help me my carb is out of wack can some one give me the stock breakin settings so i can retune from there thanx

nitro~newbie:)

Duster_360

04-07-2005, 09:38 PM

A good starting point for the TRX 2.5 hi-speed needle is 4 turns out from closed. The low-speed needle is threaded into the slide valve and is set flush (even) with the edge of the slide valve.

nitro_newbie

04-08-2005, 01:49 AM

thanx i will try that cuz i was using ti today and no matter wat i did it never did like it was before and then i got to the point were the low speed was leaned out all the way and it still wasnt shiffting but i will try that
thanx
nitro~newbie:)

Mud-MAXX

04-10-2005, 11:10 PM

Hey,

My T-MAXX Is Having A Rear Differintal Prob.
It Clicks When Under Power But Doesnt Look Like It Has Teeth Worn Down.
I Changed It Once And That Solved It For A Little While. The Only Upgrades Ive Done Are:
Ritter Cycle Racing Tuned Pipe.
Revo Piston And Sleve.
Is It Beacuse I Havent Shimed The Diff Or Shimed The Ring Gear.
Plz Help Me. Dunno What To Do.

NATE

bratt01

04-11-2005, 04:13 AM

Hi there guys,
Just ordered my T-Maxx (Have to wait three weeks before I get it :( ), and I just have one question. How long does the receiver batteries last ?

Thanx

BishopRyan

04-11-2005, 09:44 AM

Hi there guys,
Just ordered my T-Maxx (Have to wait three weeks before I get it :( ), and I just have one question. How long does the receiver batteries last ?

Thanx
5 or 6 tanks is average

bratt01

04-11-2005, 10:44 AM

5 or 6 tanks is average

Thanks,

Well I suppose then its better to get a few rechargeable ones with a fast re-charger.
Is there any specific make you would recommend ? What are you using ?
Thanks for the help so far.

Duster_360

04-11-2005, 02:55 PM

One of my Maxxes uses a 1650mah NiMh batt pac that replaces the stock batt box completely and is made by Ballistic Batteries. When I bought it, this was the biggest they had, now I think they are selling a 2300mah replacement. It has a charge lead and can be bought with or without a charger. My 1650 will go as long as I want to go - I've run all day with it without seeing the servo response start to slow down.

http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/

My other uses a trinity 1200 flat pac strapped to the underside of the chassis without a switch, so I have to plug and unplug it - saved a little weight that way.

Ebay has a few sellers that offer special rx batt pacs and charger for the Maxx. Last, a regular 5 cell hump pac will fit inside the pac - its tight, but that keeps it from moving around while you're running. Drawback to the hump pac is you have to re-wire. If you buy a new switch with a charge lead you can just replace the stock switch and you're set. These are 1200mah and should last 10 tanks easy on a full charge.

bratt01

04-12-2005, 01:00 AM

Duster_360

04-12-2005, 10:54 AM

If you put the flat batt pac on the side opposite the tank (best weight balance), the wires are too short and you'll need a servo extension wire. I think I used a 6" extension that cost a few buck at my lhs. With the extension, once its wired, you won't have to fool with taking the rx cover on and off. A few zip ties to bundle the wires and you can locate the connection (which will be your on/off "switch") near the strg servo which makes it convienent to get to even with the shell on.

1215maxx

04-12-2005, 05:37 PM

This just happened today, my t-maxx was runing and then started to have big performance problems. I tinkered around with the high speed needle and still, it almost ran as if it was stuck in 2nd. But after checking the tunning I tried to run it with the return hose unplugged from the pipe and it ran great, plugged it back in and same problem, slow, chokeing out and no high rpms. Could there be a problem with the pipe ? its the factory one. I also noticed that not that much blue smoke when pluged in, but unpluged it smoked fine- :confused:
Thanks in advance

**EDIT** My coupler that conects the header to the pipe is missing one of the zip ties and I see a small bit of oil around the connection. This area of the pipe gets pretty dirty ( oily ) and now taking a closer look I notice the coupler is dirty too ( oily ). When I took off the pipe to clean it just slid right off, from what I said above could I be looseing pressure in my pipe , just enough to not force pressure in the gas tank ? I'm also thinking that it may be creating reverse back pressure being I unplugged it and the thing ran great until the tank lost what psi it had. I'm also thinking of getting a header/pipe with no connection, all one piece - I'm starting to realize getting gas to that carb is a big factor. Again Thanks !

BishopRyan

04-12-2005, 06:12 PM

Thanks,

Well I suppose then its better to get a few rechargeable ones with a fast re-charger.
Is there any specific make you would recommend ? What are you using ?
Thanks for the help so far.
www.cheapbatterypacks.com i had them make me a 5 cell offset brick pack and im very satisfied with my runtimes and there customer service is awesome they didnt even charge to add a extra lead just for charging
im using a vision peak ultra charger im also very happy with this charger find it here https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=DYN4053

BishopRyan

04-12-2005, 06:16 PM

www.cheapbatterypacks.com i had them make me a 5 cell offset brick pack and im very satisfied with my runtimes and there customer service is awesome they didnt even charge to add a extra lead just for charging
im using a vision peak ultra charger im also very happy with this charger find it here https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=DYN4053
Duster is right though i should of got a flat pack and mounted on opposite side of the tank unless you get a race chassis like dace predator i just got one and ill be mounting the 5 cell at the shock tower

Duster_360

04-12-2005, 10:00 PM

bratt01

04-13-2005, 01:09 AM

Thanks for all the help guys !!

BishopRyan

04-13-2005, 09:29 AM

I just got a Dace Predator race chassis kit and set of Dace shock towers in a great deal off the crispy critters forum. Thats what I'm planning for my lightweight Maxx - mount the flat batt pac behind the shock tower to help keep the front wheels on the ground more of the time. I was real impressed with the quality of their metal work and can't wait to get started on the conversion.

Have you got yours converted yet, were there any probs? I sure would like to have a couple of pictures of a finished one, but I know eventually, I'll get it put together like its supposed to be. I have nearly as much fun putting one together like this as I do bashing the dickens out of it.

i got the 8 spyder diffs off of stormers website im gonna build those first before i do anything else basically im building from the ground up. i couldnt stand seeing this nice Dace stuff just sitting there so i did build some of this up a little bit fit and finish is the best ive ever put my hands on all thats left really are a few odds and ends driveshafts and cvds. ill build those diffs in about a week. i tried to buy everything at once but couldnt fit it into my budget.
Dace pred chassis
Dace motor mount
lundsford Ti ball studs hingepins turnbuckles came in a complete pack
UE super 6 FOC
UE spyder 8 diffs
RPM arms and i need to get the RPM knuckes
Dace wingmount shock towers
mugen wing and wing brace
fastlane bulks should of got the Dace though
proline steering kit
need bumpers and skids
also got a paasche vl to paint the body cant wait for my vacation so i can get started.

Duster_360

04-13-2005, 04:36 PM

I already had a decent race truck with FLM diffs in alum cases that have been bullet proof behind the FR18 that I've been running. Mine was scratch built to be like Sladen's race truck except I used FR18 motor with the diffs modded as above - about the only other modds were those carbon stiks for turnbuckles (all 4 weigh next to nothing), full set of RD logics CVDs (centers and axles), RPM arms and alum knuckles with TI ball studs. I wanted it as light as possible, so I used stock bulks and have not had any prob. I've stripped a few spurs, but that was really big air each time and as long as I don't get crazy, have no probs.

Are you sticking with a small block? Those diffs were made for big blocks. I'll agree - Dace's metal work is some of the best I've seen and I'm not surprised the fit is excellent as well. I am overloaded with work at work and as soon as I catch up, I'm getting started on building mine. Good luck with yours!

BishopRyan

04-13-2005, 05:31 PM

im gonna have to stick with the 2.5 for now i know the diffs are overkill but the super 6 should offset the gearing change and if i decide big block im covered ive been thinking about the O.S .18TZ that thing seems like a beast but ill have to wait my wife and i are expecting our first in nov. so my hobby money has been curved a little. with the pred chassis, RPM arms and Knuckles do you know what cvds and driveshafts i should use other than UE they are always sold out. Good luck on your projects. i want pics posted and as soon as i get my camera back ill post my progress.

Duster_360

04-13-2005, 05:42 PM

Can't help there - maybe you can get some advice over on the UE forum? I am going to be very disappointed if my RD Logics don't fit when I get to that point. May find help at the crispy critters forum too- they sell Dace too.

Congrats on the impending new family member. That will be a life changing experience, I'm at the empty nest stage and looking forward to retiring in the next few years or at least going part time, as I may never really completely quit.

BishopRyan

04-13-2005, 05:47 PM

thanks... how does that FR.18 compare to the stock 2.5

Duster_360

04-13-2005, 07:57 PM

There's little comparison. The FR18 is much stronger and in my experience, doesn't need the daily tuning tweaks my other Maxx with the 2.5 (pretty much stock) seems to require. I have the older "redhead" which I still see advertised, but the newer one with the turbo button (silver head) is supposed to be just a tad stronger. When I put the FR18 in, I learned that wheelies on demand were not a good thing. I bash in a city park on grass and I could wheelie hard enough, it would plant/snag the rear bumper in the grass and do backflips.

The FR18 was the main competition to the Sirio 18 which was more expensive and had (still has) poor customer service. RCCA or RC Nitro dyno'ed FR18 at 1.94hp if I remember correctly and the Sirio was 1.91. Stock 2.5 is like 1.39. It was a noticeable diff and changed the way I had to drive - I used to have a heavy throttle finger, but had to exp some throttle response out and learn to smoothly throttle up. Instant WOT would put it on its lid if running on grass (good traction) - not as bad in loose dirt, but with 4 wheel roosts it was slow to get up to speed unless you learned throttled up gradually.

BishopRyan

04-14-2005, 09:43 AM

sounds pretty solid did you stick with stock tranny and diffs or did you upgrade right away

T-EVO RACER

04-14-2005, 10:03 AM

I ordered a o.s. .18tm at my lhs, does anyone know how many horsepower it has?? I know its more than the 2.5, but how much exactly??

Duster_360

04-14-2005, 05:45 PM

Right away, I did the FOC conversion and put those brass inserts in the tranny (FullForce RC) where the screws go and did the diffs and CVDs. I didn't want probs, I wanted to run!

I upgraded the diffs to alum diff cups with the 3mm screws vs stock 2mm screws and shimmed them carefully starting with new Ebay stock diffs. Put them in alum cases with 4 screws with an alum diff collar. They were a little tight to start with but are very smooth now.

I know the OS18 TM makes more than the FR18 (1.94hp is the figure I seem to remember) and less than the TZ at 2.28hp, so its gotta be in that range somewhere. The OS18CV-RX beat the FR18 in the RCCA shootout a while back and the TM is supposed to be even stronger that the CV-RX. I'm guessing its over 2hp.

I don't recall seeing a dyno test on the TM. Anyone??

T-EVO RACER

04-16-2005, 05:06 PM

hey anyone going to the nitromaxx challenge out in beumont?? I don't want to be the only tmaxx there!!! check it out at www.prolineracing.com

ryan12newman12

04-16-2005, 09:51 PM

hey any 1 out there havin problems w/ their carb changin in there 2.5 t maxx w/ the 2.5 traxxas engine???????

thnks mike

T-EVO RACER

04-19-2005, 07:42 PM

what do mean by carb changing??

T4Maxx13

04-19-2005, 08:20 PM

Man i wish i could go but im short on $$$ and i need transport!

T-EVO RACER

04-19-2005, 11:05 PM

oh man it ain't that far from north cali!!

T4Maxx13

04-22-2005, 07:34 PM

Where is it?

nitro_newbie

04-22-2005, 08:14 PM

have any of u tried the hpi .18ss is? it a good motor? it is priced reasonably at 149.99 and would the xtm tourqe pipe and header combo be a good exhaust for it im trying to get a new engine for my truck and i dont want to deal with the 2.5 any more and just have it as a stand by. any answer or recomendations woud be greatly appreciated. and why is the xtm .18 such a bad motor it is at real good price.any answer would help me alot in my quest to find a suitable 2.5 replacement.
thanx

nitro~newbie:):):):):):):):):)

BishopRyan

04-23-2005, 11:14 AM

Duster_360

04-23-2005, 06:26 PM

If your budget can only stand a $150 motor, the Fantom 18 would be a better
choice, IMHO. It's a direct drop in, EZ Start compatible and has everything you need (header, gasket and springs). The HPI NS18 was one of the 9 .18 sized engines in the RCCA shoot out (Dec/2004 issue) and it was 6th in the sprint (132' dragrace - 1/10 scale quartermile) testing. The FR18 was 3rd and it costs the same and would provide more bang for your buck.

RCCA noted that to install the HPI NS18 they needed the flywheel, carb linkage, exhaust header and tuned pipe from an original Tmaxx and they needed to shorten the crank.

The top 4 motors were only separated by 0.43sec at the 132' mark. The winner, the OS CV-R engine is not a direct drop in (threaded crank), so I wouldn't consider it as an option unless you know how to modd that crank to get it installed in your truck.

nitro_newbie

04-23-2005, 06:37 PM

well thanx is it true the fantom motor produces close to th 2 hp range?
also is it a turbo plug?and how do they work and could i use other turbo plugs if possible? thank you for telling me this advice and now i know i shouldnt buy the .18ss. wat about the xtm .18 that motor looks pretty neat?
thanx

nitro~newbie:)

p.s. my truck is fairly new and it is only been through about 2 gallons. would i have to upgrade the tranny? it already has the foc conversion and im going to get the spool later. wat else would i need to make it bullet proof or is stock ok?because i dont get much money so parts breakage would be an issue if this motor can mangle stock gears.

T-EVO RACER

04-23-2005, 07:36 PM

go with the os 18tm more torque and smoother than the tz. but it costs 210, but ithas a tmaxx or revo header that comes with it!!

T-EVO RACER

04-23-2005, 07:37 PM

YOU DON'T THE SPOOL!! unless your drag racing, but otherwise its a bad upgrade!!

Duster_360

04-23-2005, 07:52 PM

Somebody tested the FR 18 at 1.94hp. This was back when the only 2 engines available for the TMaxx were the Sirio 18 and FR18. The Sirio tested 1.91hp. I don'y remember the source, but these figures are prob high. The OS18 TM was tested at 1.8hp and I have no doubt it will beat the FR18. There are no accepted RC industry standards for testing hp unfortunately, so really, all you can be sure of is that the FR18 has more hp than the 2.5. When I installed mine, it became a wheelie machine spending too much time on its lid. Wheelie bar finally fixed that. My 2.5 would only wheelie occassionally.

There are 2 FR18 versions available - I have what is referred to as the red headed engine - the '04 model and it's a standard plug engine. The '05 engine has a silver head and uses a turbo plug. I'm not sure if it has a removeable tubro button or if the turbo plug is it's only option - I've not had any experience with turbo plugs. Pay a visit to the TRX forums and you can find more info on the Fantoms.

The red head engine is still available from Stormer Hobbies (where I bought mine). I would go to the fantom website to see where you can buy the '05 or to find out more about it. http://www.fantom-motors.com/ - supposed to be their site, but I'm getting a "can't find server" error , so their site may be down right now or they've changed the address??

Sorry to have so much bad news, but the XTM 18 was 8th in the RCCA .18 engine shootout. It was way off the pace.

The only thing I did before installing my FR18 was a FOC and CVDs. I know many who run with the stock drive train - some break and some don't - depends on your driving style and traction. Lots of jumping - going to need to do more cause that puts a lot of shock into the drivetrain. Lots of FR18s are run with little changes to the drive train. Again, trek over to TRX forums and search the TMaxx thread on fantom and get some more info.

nitro_newbie

04-25-2005, 12:48 AM

well i went to stormer hobbeid an they have the silver head one and its standard plugs also.it seems like a good motor but i will do that and check at the traxx forum.

thanx for the help.

nitro~newbie:)

RespirologyRC

04-25-2005, 07:53 AM

I am purchasing a VBS-alum system from Unlimitedengineering this week:), with the 8 spyder gear setup. I will post pics ASAP. But on my stock my I modded my .15 TRX and it sings like a bird. I've also blown it up a couple of times, but now it's running again and am happy. But as far as mods: I upgraded the tranny to alum forward and reverse (all 4) for some reason or another I found that the plastic gears just continued to get destroyed. So out with the plastic and in with the alum. I've run a lot tanks through tthem and they still show no signs of wear. I also upgraded the drive shafts to CVD's, if you gonna jump definetly do this. After popping one of these you'll understand what I'm talking about. I also upgraded both diffs but only bought one alum housing for the complete diff on the rear. Both diffs received the alum diff cup and RRP hardened ring and pinion. But regardless of this with the stock plastic diff housing the rear ring and pinion would become destroyed if too much load was placed on this. I've never had any problems with the fronts just the rears. The alum rear took care of this. I pretty much only upgrade what breaks. I removed the friction pegs in the spur and upped then to plastic little white balls and locked her up. I find that with this entire setup I have yet to strip this plastic spur. On the other hand when I was running with my spur slightly loose it would become toasted even on the smallest of jumps.

I am a proud T-Maxx owner and have had mine for 5 years. And although many complain about this and about that I have found this truck easy to work on and a joy to drive! My only complaint is; I wished that traxxas would have upgraded it slowly over the years similar to what HPI is doing with their Savages.

In the near future I intend on buying OTB first and second gears ($100) along with their primary running gears. I also would like to buy the FOC super 6 from unlimeted.

Duster_360

04-25-2005, 10:08 AM

nitro_newbie - stormer's magazine ads show the older engine - even their website shows it in the listing of fantom products, but when you bring it up, its the '05 engine. Fooled me into thinking the 04 was still available.

I know the '04 often required re-sealing the backplate to cure an inherent air leak - mine needed that fix - the thin paper gasket they used just was not doing the job, mine leaked like there was no gasket there at all. Was a real disappointment when first cranked - couldn't get it to run right for anything, but after the sealing it up with some sensor safe silicone gasket material, it runs fine.

My FR18 is going to get a new P/S and is going into one of my 4-Tecs - that should turn that one into a screamer. The Tmaxx is getting an OS18 TM and a Dace Predator chassis (plus other various parts) makover.

BishopRyan

04-27-2005, 02:47 PM

just got a OS .18tm i hope this thing screams i kinda wanted a tz but went with the tm based a few recommendations im really looking for a good improvement over the 2.5 also got cvds mip, vantage pipe, and otb gears hoping to start building soon. im gonna try to compete with duster it sounds like he has a solid setup

Duster_360

04-27-2005, 03:51 PM

I looked at the TZ before buying the TM and if the pull start, slide carb ver had been available I might have bought that one. I have a TNX and will eventually put one in there to get rid of the weight of the elec start.

Everyone whose put the TM in says it rips! Course everybody is saying that about the '05 FR18 too.

I haven't seen the hp listed on both engines (or all 3 with TZ) where they have been tested by the same method, by the same person, preferably on the same dyno. OS shows the TZ as 1.8 and the TM as 1.6. RC Nitro dyno'ed the 2.5 at 1.34 or 1.3something. But I don't believe the figures are comparable at all. RC Nitro dyno'ed the TZ at 2.28, so none of this is directly comparable.

Just have to get it installed and see how it rips!!

BishopRyan

04-27-2005, 04:24 PM

all i need now are skids possibly a better brake setup and i can use the 2.5 flywheel and clutch but im still trying to figure out if would notice a difference with better flywheel and 3 or 4 shoe clutch still learning i guess

Duster_360

04-27-2005, 05:36 PM

Reminds me - when I installed my FR18 I also changed to GA's 3 shoe alum clutch and its been bullet proof. One of the things I'm interested in checking when I pull the motor is to look at the condition of the shoes and see how they've faired. That was another thing I had changed from the start not wanting to have any probs. I know in 1:1s if you up the hp by about 50%, yor're going to have clutch probs in short order. The review beatyourtruck gave it made me try it. Definitely, if you've got a lot of tanks thru your clutch now, buy a new set of shoes and a new spring. Cheap insurance!

BishopRyan

04-27-2005, 05:51 PM

thanks for the up duster i will keep you posted

Duster_360

04-27-2005, 06:50 PM

The stock brakes are pretty good if adjusted right and if thats not enough there's a simple mod to make them powerful enough to screech the tires or flip the truck - this guy has got a lot of good stuff on his site, good luck with your build!

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/brakes/tm-brakes.asp

GT Freak

04-27-2005, 10:57 PM

Well, havent been able to run my MAXX cause of a broken tranny gear. got that fixed, but dont like the JERKING into motion. what can i do to stop that :confused:

bratt01

04-28-2005, 03:19 AM

Hi there,

Just ordered a 5 cell hump pack for my T-Maxx, and also a charger.
Which adaptor should I buy to make the charger fit the battery? (Tamiya to female servo or what?)
Also, wat mods will be necessary to fit the batt in my Maxx? I just wanna be prepared to do the mod because weve got a few public holidays coming up (Im in RSA)and my lhs will be closed for a few days.
Thanks in advance.

Duster_360

04-28-2005, 07:47 AM

GT Freak - that jerking motion is the clutches in the trans engaging when you throttle up - it's normal. The way to get rid of that is to install the FOC (forward only conversion).

bratt01 - I assume you charger has a tamiya male conn? I'm not aware of an fem tamiya to fem servo adapter thats ready made. When I 1st started I had to make one - buy a tamiya connector kit (has both m & f) and a servo extension. Cut the end off you don't need and put the tam fem on that end.
The other approach is to cut the tamiya conn off the charger and add the fem servo conn to the charger. I got rid of my charger and got another because of that tamiya conn and lack of adapters to charge what I needed to.

If its a 3 on top of 2 type hump pac, it should fit in stock batt box - its tight, but thats what you want - keeps it from moving around. If the batt lead is long enough, you're still going to have to open the rx box to charge it unless the batt has a separate charging connection. I replaced the stock switch with one with a separate charging connection so all I have to to is make sure switch is off and connect the charging connection to my charger. The new switch was also long enough to make the connection. You'll need a servo extension wire if the batt connection won't reach. If your batt has a separate charging connection, all you need is to connect it up (assuming its long enough). By the way, welcome to the forums!

bratt01

04-28-2005, 08:24 AM

Thanks for the advice, and thanks for the welcome.. :)
I waited three weeks for my Maxx (Delivered from the USA) and tommorow is the first time I'll take it out the box, break it in and start bashing......
Im so excited to be "part of the club" :)

Duster_360

04-28-2005, 12:24 PM

Read the manual and watch the DVD right before you go start your breakin. Do it pretty much like they recommend and have a great time! It's only new once, so enjoy it!

bratt01

04-29-2005, 01:01 AM

Thanks, will do :)

T-EVO RACER

04-29-2005, 09:22 AM

Well, havent been able to run my MAXX cause of a broken tranny gear. got that fixed, but dont like the JERKING into motion. what can i do to stop that :confused:
get rid of reverse.

outfitter540

05-02-2005, 03:15 PM

hey does anyone rune the sirio .18 anymore? or do they not make it anymore?

Duster_360

05-02-2005, 05:58 PM

Tower Hobbies is still selling a Sirio 18, so it appears they're not gone yet.

Newdude

05-03-2005, 06:17 PM

does RB's Innovations Supercharger really work?

Duster_360

05-03-2005, 08:51 PM

I think the consensus on this board is no, they do not work. It'll help wear out your engine and lighten your wallet but little else. Do a search in the nitro thread on supercharger. Here's one of the recent ones -

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=186638&highlight=supercharger

nitro_newbie

05-03-2005, 11:25 PM

wat tires would be best for sand that have the same size rim opening as the stock rims that are real good for sand(beside the sand paddle) and a good allpurpose tires for dirt,rocks,grass,street,ect.
thanx
nitro~newbie:)

Duster_360

05-04-2005, 11:29 AM

I don't anything will beat sand paddles for sand if its like beach sand or dunes. If its packed sand and for those others types, I've had good results with Traxxas SPortTTrax tires. they are lightweight and will give your TMaxx a throttle response boost just from the weight diff if you've been running the stock chevron tires - those are heavy.

Theres prob a good alternative in the Proline tires too, Bow Ties maybe, but I haven't run those myself (just ordered a set) and really don't know. The Mashers might be good too, again just guessing.

nitro_newbie

05-05-2005, 12:18 AM

the reason i wanted to know is that my truck already has the sporttraxx tires and i dont want to get paddles cuz then i would need to buy another set of tires fo wen i dont run on sand also have any of you heard about the rb .23 tmaxx engine and is it a direct drop in as the article says and were can i find it?thanks:)
nitro~newbie:)

nitro_newbie

05-08-2005, 12:04 AM

have any used this engine or have seen it at at hobbyshop website?http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php?part=Products&AR_Stat04=RB%20CONCEPT&GProduit=E01901-323000/T
thanx
nitro~newbie
p.s.also could you tell me were i can get one?

T-EVO RACER

05-08-2005, 10:11 AM

does RB's Innovations Supercharger really work?
newdude, superchargers don't work!!! or at least not like you problably expect, its not like putting a supercharger on a mustang,this may give you 1/4 to 1/2 of a more horsepower, just get a faster motor.

T-EVO RACER

05-08-2005, 10:12 AM

T-EVO RACER

05-08-2005, 10:14 AM

bratt01

05-09-2005, 01:44 AM

Hi there everybody.

Finally broke my T-Maxx in this past weekend.
Now I've got one problem though. After the fifth tank, I proceeded to start tuning for performance. First I did a few high speed runs and brought the car in. (Note, it did not want to change to second every time). So I checked the temp. 290F. Now the manual tells me its too hot, so I must richen the high speed needle a bit. But, the car doesn't shift into second, so I must lean the needle a bit. So then I leaned the mixture a bit, car shifts into second but temp 295-305F. ? If I richen it again, its sluggish and temp still stays around 285F. What should I do? I lowered the body last night as well as cut one half of the front windscreen, but didn't have time to go run my Tmaxx. Will this help, or else what could be wrong ? Any help would be appreciated. Thanx :)

T-EVO RACER

05-09-2005, 09:24 AM

do you see plenty of blue smoke when driving? if not richen your low speed a hair.it will lower temps and it'll still shift,I ran my 2.5 around 260-270 degrees. and if that doesn't work go to a cooler plug like a mccoy 8. your problably running the stock plug.

bratt01

05-09-2005, 10:43 AM

nitro_newbie

05-09-2005, 11:41 PM

nitro newbie, do you like to clean your truck for about 2hours after a days run????
well i have already taken it to the sand before and it doesnt take me 2 hours to clean it because i use a compressoer to get most of it off and have sealed the drive treain also so it really isnt a prob. any ways trucks were ment to get dirty.also wat gears did u guys replace en you upgraded to big blocks and if the gears from rrp are any good? and wat gears would be the most pron to failing wen under the power of a hyper 21 4 port? lsit prices or links or stock # if possible:)
thank you

nitro~newbie:)

bratt01

05-10-2005, 01:09 AM

Im running a Duratrax LC3 plug (Hot) :mad: - This could be the cause. Ill try a cooler plug. My mixture is about 1/16 leaner than break in settings. Im running a low 16% nitro, with a high oil content.(Dunno if this causes anything?), and yes there is plenty blue smoke coming from the exhaust. Ill check it tonight on a good paved surface and let you know tommorow. (I suppose the offroad driving also gets the temp up). Thanks for the tips so far.

Took my Maxx out yesterday afternoon and drove it up and down the road, made a few turns over the grass,did a few high speed runs(WOT) and a few low speed turns/spins(WOT). Measured the temp - 267F. Now this was only after I've driven for about 5 mins (Half a tank). Then it was too dark to carry on. Is this temp fine then for 'bout 5 mins driving, or would it go up a lot more if I drive a full tank? I richened the mixture a tad (1/16) as well before I even started driving. Plenty blue smoke & oil coming from the exhaust. Also, when I bring it in it idles high for a sec or two then starts to idle down to a slow idle. What causes this?
Thank you in advance.

Duster_360

05-10-2005, 11:33 AM

bratt01

05-11-2005, 01:37 AM

Drove one whole tank yesterday. It was running very nicely - fast. But at about half a tank it started hesitating, so I richened the needle. Plenty blue smoke still. Engine temp 300F. Drove around slowly a few times and then started going up and down again. Temp 285F. Richened a little more. Now, no shifting into second. Leaned a tad. Shifting good into second and good performance, but temp stil in the high 280F's. Could it be the fuel im using? Its 16% nitro,5% castor oil,8% synth oil. I have already changed the shift point a bit earlier. My HSN is 5 1/2 turns out. To me it seams im running very rich, but symptoms show Im running lean (High heat).
Also, after I refuelled, try to pull off quickly but engine bogs down. Is the LSN too rich (Temporarily flooding the engine) or too lean. Note, Tmaxx doesn't wanna lift the front wheels and is quite sluggish off the mark.
Once again, thanks in advance for info.

bratt01

05-11-2005, 02:25 AM

Would guess temp is going to go up more if you're heavy on the throttle. If you'll just cruise and avoid a lot of WOT, then temp may stay in that range.
ANything besides pavement will make engine work harder and temps to be higher than running on pavement.

Idle sounds just about perfect. Its supposed to do what you're describing. There's an avi clip over on Traxxas's support central - look at the bottom of the page about tuning the 2.5 - find the "idle down avi" and this is what its supposed to be like. Not sure what causes it - guess its a slight excess of fuel and air in the crankcase burning off from when you were running faster.

Drove one whole tank yesterday. It was running very nicely - fast. But at about half a tank it started hesitating, so I richened the needle. Plenty blue smoke still. Engine temp 300F. Drove around slowly a few times and then started going up and down again. Temp 285F. Richened a little more. Now, no shifting into second. Leaned a tad. Shifting good into second and good performance, but temp stil in the high 280F's. Could it be the fuel im using? Its 16% nitro,5% castor oil,8% synth oil. I have already changed the shift point a bit earlier. My HSN is 5 1/2 turns out. To me it seams im running very rich, but symptoms show Im running lean (High heat).
Also, after I refuelled, try to pull off quickly but engine bogs down. Is the LSN too rich (Temporarily flooding the engine) or too lean. Note, Tmaxx doesn't wanna lift the front wheels and is quite sluggish off the mark.
Once again, thanks in advance for info.

bratt01

05-11-2005, 03:09 AM

Would guess temp is going to go up more if you're heavy on the throttle. If you'll just cruise and avoid a lot of WOT, then temp may stay in that range.
ANything besides pavement will make engine work harder and temps to be higher than running on pavement.

Idle sounds just about perfect. Its supposed to do what you're describing. There's an avi clip over on Traxxas's support central - look at the bottom of the page about tuning the 2.5 - find the "idle down avi" and this is what its supposed to be like. Not sure what causes it - guess its a slight excess of fuel and air in the crankcase burning off from when you were running faster.

Drove one whole tank yesterday. It was running very nicely - fast. But at about half a tank it started hesitating, so I richened the needle. Plenty blue smoke still. Engine temp 300F. Drove around slowly a few times and then started going up and down again. Temp 285F. Richened a little more. Now, no shifting into second. Leaned a tad. Shifting good into second and good performance, but temp stil in the high 280F's. Could it be the fuel im using? Its 16% nitro,8% castor oil,12% synth oil. I have already changed the shift point a bit earlier. My HSN is 5 1/2 turns out. To me it seams im running very rich, but symptoms show Im running lean (High heat).
Also, after I refuelled, try to pull off quickly but engine bogs down. Is the LSN too rich (Temporarily flooding the engine) or too lean. Note, Tmaxx doesn't wanna lift the front wheels and is quite sluggish off the mark.
Once again, thanks in advance for info.

Sorry, edited the % oil.

bratt01

05-11-2005, 04:36 AM

Sorry, that should read 16% nitro, 7%castor & 12% synthetic.

Duster_360

05-11-2005, 10:37 PM

bratt01

05-12-2005, 02:44 AM

I agree, 5 1/2 full turns seems rich; mine runs around 3 1/4- 3 3/4 depending on the time of the year. I can't see how the fuel you're using would account for the diff- 10-20% nitro is supposed to be the 2.5's correct range. I use Top Fuel and think the oil %'age is 16 or 18% (I forget which). The 2.5 runs hot - it runs hotter while there's still pinch in the P/S, that's what breakin is all about. When the pinch starts to back off, temps will get more reasonable. Mine ran at 290-305 when it was relatively new.

Your lsn sound rich too - thatmay be why it bogs when you pull away from a stop. If you adj the idle screw, does that change the idle?

At least you can make it run cooler by setting HSN richer - at least you don't seem to have an air leak.
Thanks. I retuned it again yesterday with all setting back to factory. On 4 1/2 turns it simply runs too lean, it hesitates and temp go skyhigh. After plenty playing around, 5 3/4 HSN, and LSN about 1 turn rich, she now runs like a dream, excellent punch of the line, change to second pretty quickly. On a full tank temps 250-260, from half a tank downwards she flies as the mixture becomes leaner, temps 260-270. I ran this setting for about three tanks, and temp stayed constant. A friend told me also the engine might still be a little stiff, and temps will come down after about 1 gallon. Im also gonna double check for air leaks.

Im thinking about getting the Powetune Head (Revo) and the blue tuned pipe (Revo). Do you think its a good idea or a waste of money?

Thanks for the help mate.

bratt01

05-12-2005, 02:50 AM

I agree, 5 1/2 full turns seems rich; mine runs around 3 1/4- 3 3/4 depending on the time of the year. I can't see how the fuel you're using would account for the diff- 10-20% nitro is supposed to be the 2.5's correct range. I use Top Fuel and think the oil %'age is 16 or 18% (I forget which). The 2.5 runs hot - it runs hotter while there's still pinch in the P/S, that's what breakin is all about. When the pinch starts to back off, temps will get more reasonable. Mine ran at 290-305 when it was relatively new.

Your lsn sound rich too - thatmay be why it bogs when you pull away from a stop. If you adj the idle screw, does that change the idle?

At least you can make it run cooler by setting HSN richer - at least you don't seem to have an air leak.
Thanks. I retuned it again yesterday with all setting back to factory. On 4 1/2 turns it simply runs too lean, it hesitates and temp go skyhigh. After plenty playing around, 5 3/4 HSN, and LSN about 1 turn rich, she now runs like a dream, excellent punch of the line, change to second pretty quickly (Also had my first high speed cartwheel on pavement, car came out just fine - Only scratches on body). On a full tank temps 250-260, from half a tank downwards she flies as the mixture becomes leaner, temps 260-270. I ran this setting for about three tanks, and temp stayed constant. A friend told me also the engine might still be a little stiff, and temps will come down after about 1 gallon. Im also gonna double check for air leaks.
Adjusting the idle screw does work, I did the pinch test and car dies after about three secs.

Im thinking about getting the Powetune Head (Revo) and the blue tuned pipe (Revo). Do you think its a good idea or a waste of money?

Thanks for the help mate.

bratt01

05-12-2005, 02:56 AM

I agree, 5 1/2 full turns seems rich; mine runs around 3 1/4- 3 3/4 depending on the time of the year. I can't see how the fuel you're using would account for the diff- 10-20% nitro is supposed to be the 2.5's correct range. I use Top Fuel and think the oil %'age is 16 or 18% (I forget which). The 2.5 runs hot - it runs hotter while there's still pinch in the P/S, that's what breakin is all about. When the pinch starts to back off, temps will get more reasonable. Mine ran at 290-305 when it was relatively new.

Your lsn sound rich too - thatmay be why it bogs when you pull away from a stop. If you adj the idle screw, does that change the idle?

At least you can make it run cooler by setting HSN richer - at least you don't seem to have an air leak.
Thanks. I retuned it again yesterday with all setting back to factory. On 4 1/2 turns it simply runs too lean, it hesitates and temp go skyhigh. After plenty playing around, 5 3/4 HSN, and LSN about 1 turn rich, she now runs like a dream, excellent punch of the line, change to second pretty quickly (Also had my first high speed cartwheel on pavement, car came out just fine - Only scratches on body). On a full tank temps 250-260, from half a tank downwards she flies as the mixture becomes leaner, temps 260-270. I ran this setting for about three tanks, and temp stayed constant. A friend told me also the engine might still be a little stiff, and temps will come down after about 1 gallon. Im also gonna double check for air leaks.
Adjusting the idle screw does work, I did the pinch test and car dies after about three secs.

Im thinking about getting the Powetune Head (Revo) and the blue tuned pipe (Revo). Do you think its a good idea or a waste of money?

Thanks for the help mate.

Duster_360

05-12-2005, 09:07 AM

Thats incredible - the diff in tuning, your place to mine. Glad you seem to have it sorted out.

I changed to a Nova race pro cooling head and it dropped temps 40-50degrees. I just got tired of worrying about temps- my place is all grass and I like to run fast. The shiny finish on the new head killed using my temp gun though - but I put in an on board temp gage. I didn't retune to take advantage of the temp drop - that kind of defeats the purpose you know?

The head off the revo will help, not sure now much, but heard it does help. I haven't heard anything on the revo pipe though. You might try a visit to the traxxas Tmaxx forums an see if there's any help over there.

T-EVO RACER

05-12-2005, 10:22 PM

well i have already taken it to the sand before and it doesnt take me 2 hours to clean it because i use a compressoer to get most of it off and have sealed the drive treain also so it really isnt a prob. any ways trucks were ment to get dirty.also wat gears did u guys replace en you upgraded to big blocks and if the gears from rrp are any good? and wat gears would be the most pron to failing wen under the power of a hyper 21 4 port? lsit prices or links or stock # if possible:)
thank you

nitro~newbie:)
no because when Iused top run on the beach the truck took forever with a ait compressor and everything to look clean, and my bearings were shot, the sand got in my servo and stripped the little gears, but our beaches are dirty.

nitro_newbie

05-12-2005, 11:41 PM

also i was going to get a .21 conversion for my maxx from new era and i was wondering wat gears should i replace with the steel ones from rrp and wat are the price/stock# here is the kit i plan to buy it comes with a choice of 2 different motors tell me witch one would be a good choice and other stuff i would need to buy to make my truck stand up to the extra power?
thank you
nitro~newbie:)

here r the links:
http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=bujcoeyehgyknluqxkbusbuyjybonx fn&part_id=402

here is the other one
http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=bujcoeyehgyknluqxkbusbuyjybonx fn&part_id=551

BishopRyan

05-13-2005, 09:44 AM

nitro newbie check this stuff out first http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13200.html and this http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13471.html and for the rest of the tranny gears you need otb gears here http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5974827815&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW and for diffs these are the best http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13540.html its a little pricy but its the best

Duster_360

05-13-2005, 10:36 AM

BishopRyan - I know you're building a Predator like I am and I'm wondering what's going one with UE? They seem to be out of an awful lot of stock. I have a Dace motor mount on order from another place, but its back ordered. I used your links and noticed UE has them in stock. Am I safe in ordering from them? Are they still shipping what they have in stock??

Another ques - what are you planning to use for shocks - will the 4 shock Racers' edge stiff UE sell fit the Predator? They're intended for the SM, and are long, but with the Dace shock towers, is there enough adj to run them? UE's sale prices are pretty attractive right now! Thanks

BishopRyan

05-13-2005, 01:15 PM

Duster 360 hey the racer X shocks are from what i understand the best 4 shock setup period and are a perfect fit with the pred. and the dace shock towers. i ordered the super 6 and pred chassis from them and had no problems stuff even arrived alot sooner than expected. i wanted to just run 8 big bores but the o.s 18 tm and vantage pipe are too big ill have to go with a 4 shock setup im picking up 4 front shocks (hot bodies pro buggy shocks) from a friend and im not sure if itll work but i hope so its temporary until i can get some funds for the racer x if you get those shocks get the motherload its all the parts for rebuilding that youll ever need. ive also heard of people running just 4 big bores with black trinity stiff springs with 60 or 55 weigth oil i might try that too... exactly how do i post pics so i can get them up here im about 90% done

Duster_360

05-13-2005, 01:46 PM

Well, I just bought them along with my missing motor mount. The sale was too good to pass up. Now to get my money back from the other place - they hacked me off - their web store showed it in stock, I ordered, was BO - been 3 weeks, but no more for me. Thanks

LMK when you get some pics up, def interested in seeing them. Wish I was that far along with mine, but just too busy trying to catch up at work. seems everytime I turn around its something else! I am going to get there however, that's for sure!

BishopRyan

05-13-2005, 02:10 PM

hey there are 2 different kinds of motor mounts regular which i have and by the way its gorgeous and a off set mount if your gonna run a 1/8 clutch just FYI

Duster_360

05-13-2005, 02:48 PM

Thanks - some where somebody explained that to me, prob the guy I bought the kit from (he was using it only to take some pictures of) - I've been impressed with the Tmaxx 3 shoe alum clutch by GA that I installed when I went to the FR 18 thats in it now - going to stay with that clutch. I wanted to use the Dace mount since its better, stronger and the cooling fins - it gets hot here in summer, so it can't hurt. Figured it would look awesome too!

BishopRyan

05-13-2005, 03:52 PM

GA is what i was wanting to do i need to get them a money order my wife wont let me use paypal and for some reason they dont take credit cards for a split second i thought of getting a integy 3 shoe but they get such bad publicity so i backed off

Duster_360

05-13-2005, 04:05 PM

This is copied off their site -

In addition to PayPal's online payment system, which we use for credit card orders, we also accept cashiers checks and money orders for our products. You can mail your order to the address below. Be sure to include your name, address, phone number, e-mail address and the items you wish to order.
Great Assembly R/C
PMB 68
5 Bel Air S. Pkwy., Suite 109
Bel Air, Maryland 21015

Feel free to contact Dave Schulz at sales@greatassemblyrc.com with questions regarding your order.

I went with them because of a review of their clutch on beatyourtruck.com

BishopRyan

05-13-2005, 04:57 PM

thanks for the info i should have got their bulks i got fastlane instead i hope these fastlanes do ok i went that way just because of the fastlane warranty return the broken piece with 8 dollars and theyll send a new one back but from what im seeing GA wont break.

Duster_360

05-13-2005, 06:09 PM

Bulks are an issue I have yet to resolve parts wise. Did you get those new ones FLM has come up with or the standard bulks? Reason I tell everybody ripping up diff cups to go with FLM diff cups - their replacement cost deal is great. If you ruin a maxximizer diff cup, guess what - you get to buy another at full price - what a deal!!

There's a 2 to 1 diff in strength between 6061 and 7075 alum with 7075 being stronger. I've got a set of trx alum bulks right now (surprise birthday gift, lol) but they're kinda soft, so I don't think I want to run those. I'd been thinking about the GA 7075s until I got "surprised". The trx ones will go in my stocker which is still using plastic bulks. Sure can tie up a bunch of cash in bulks and I'm not sure what is really the best thing to do. I may do what you've done and get a set of FLMs - they would be better than what I have now.

Do you want some give in this area or do you want as much strength as possible? Not sure what's best.

T-EVO RACER

05-13-2005, 09:36 PM

hey bratt go with 30% nitro, the 16% is making it run hot!!! use odonell fuel it makes it run a consistent temp. and you can get a better cooling head.

nitro_newbie

05-13-2005, 10:36 PM

well i just wanted to know wat tranny gears i would need and would i have to replace all the gears or just the two speed and are the rrp gears any good?
and i dont need i high performance chassis because it is alittle expensive since i dont get that much for an allowance so i just wanted to know the tranny gears and would it help wen i change to the big block to replace the gear with a new traxxas set and spool instead of an open diff?but thanx for the stuff and i would buy it if i had that deep of pockets but with that money i could buy me another rc but thanx anyways:):):):):)

nitro~newbie:)

Duster_360

05-13-2005, 10:58 PM

nitro_newbie - I'm not familar with those 3 engine choices. The conversion I've seen was the one sold by Dynamite. The Hyper is supposed to be a good motor.

If you don't have a lot of bucks, I think you're going to be unhappy as your truck sits with broken parts while you save up enough to get it fixed. RRP stuff has the reputtion of being good stuff, but as far as knowing what to tell you to get, sorry, have not done it myself, so can't help there.

Have you considered putting the bucks out for a hot 18 that won't take all your money, will only need CVDs and maybe a pipe?? A 21 conversion can turn into money pit! Go over to the traxxas forums and do a little reading on some of the 21 conversions over there and ask for some advice - there's prob more that have been done over there than here. Good luck.

BishopRyan

05-14-2005, 09:39 AM

Duster 360 so far the fit and finish of the FLM bulks are good ive got the standard bulks and the UE spyder 8 diffs sitting between them the real test will be in a couple of days when I bash the crap out of it to see if ive got any weak spots. i thinks 6061 is enough for bulks and im hearing that the dace 6061 bulks are the best less bent hinge pins because they have a set screw in the bulk (nice engineering). if youve got a 7075 chassis the weak point may fall on the bulks but if youve got 7075 bulks and 6061 chassis im thinking you may bend your chassis on a hard landing if you have 7075 bulks and chassis im thinking your sitting pretty good its so tough to say the guys on the UE forum hate FLM and broken diffs dont seem to be a issue with those guys most are running dace or GA and the lucky ones have the victory bulkless setup if i do break these bulks ill probably get GA 7075 it seems the real key there is that solid bulkhead brace that thing looks crazy strong. im waiting on shocks and shock springs and the project will be done im on vacation mon tues wed my order from tower is expected on mon so ill be firing up tues im kinda scared to turn it over ive never built anything from the ground up hopefully the whole thing doesnt just explode all over my lawn. with the money invested if this thing blows up my wifes gonna kill me.lol

Duster_360

05-14-2005, 10:45 AM

Thanks for the advice - I just got registered at UE so I need to do some reading over there and see what experiences have been with the various combos of parts and pieces.

The Tmaxx I'm using for the Predator conversion was my 1st scratch build - of anything, I'd only had rtrs before that. It was interesting - went together and came apart twice until I got it in the right order, but it fired right up and then didn't run well. I had a bad air leak in the FR18 - backplate gasket was a total joke. After re-sealing it, its been a blast. I've got a badly slipping one way and a pinhole in the tank somewhere right now and I'm going to just let it sit until I get the racer's shocks and mount I ordered yesterday. Then I can start getting serious. I sure do want to get my OS18 of of its box!

Expect some time for adjusting-these gizmos are dynamic and after breakin, it seemed a lot of stuff fit slightly diff. Part of the fun to me. I think you're safe with the wife- little chance it'll blow. I'd be more concerned about her reaction if you break it!!

BishopRyan

05-14-2005, 10:56 AM

lol....after spend alot of time on the UE forum i find its very deep into the hobby beyond the average enthusiast much better than the traxxas forum and very informative

Duster_360

05-14-2005, 11:18 AM

Some forums are def better than others. I rarely go to traxxas anymore, just too many posters into the "mine's bigger than yours" stuff thats a waste of time. UE forums should be worth the time spent researching - glad to hear that.

Enjoy the vac, hope tower shows up on time and all goes according to your plans. Its back to work for me, I gotta get some stuff done!

bratt01

05-17-2005, 10:43 AM

hey bratt go with 30% nitro, the 16% is making it run hot!!! use odonell fuel it makes it run a consistent temp. and you can get a better cooling head.

Maybe I should try it. Dont I need to do another "break-in" when I swop fuels. And wont this also make my engine not last as long ? I chose the 16% mainly because it has quite a high oil content and I thought running lower nitro will preserve my engine ? (Im still pretty new to nitro)

rcster3000

05-19-2005, 10:45 PM

Maybe I should try it. Dont I need to do another "break-in" when I swop fuels. And wont this also make my engine not last as long ? I chose the 16% mainly because it has quite a high oil content and I thought running lower nitro will preserve my engine ? (Im still pretty new to nitro)

Technically no, you don't need to do that because your engine is already "broken" I know your new to nitro but you dont have to do any of that any more I for one swoped to o'donnel 20% racing fuel because it is cheaper and my motor is still running. Over the past year i've run it and I have had no problem with it and it runs better than when it was running on traxxas' 20% top fuel! Oh! let me tell you this "IT'S A SCAM TRAXXAS IS TRYING TO MAKE MORE MONEY BY SAYING THEIR FUEL IS THE BEST FOR YOU" there trying to scare you into believeing that your motor will die on you if you dont use there fuel when theres plenty fuels better than the one I use that will work really well!!!! "I've tried them"

nitro_newbie

05-20-2005, 06:37 PM

i was having some problems with my motor it is still stock but it stalls alot but i did the compression test and i cant turn it with my finger unless i grab it with my entire hand could it be a tuning problem? also the carb isnt positioned the way it was from the factory cuz i moved it could it be that because it is not tilted to the side anymore would moving also help with stalling any comments would be appreciated

thanx
nitro~newbie
p.s. i recently made the change from traxxas top fuel to blue thunder 20% and i do have to agree with rcster3000 it had way better performance.

Duster_360

05-20-2005, 10:58 PM

The carb need to be aligned with the linkage from the servo, otherwise, you can have a bind when the servo pulls the carb open. Line it back up, gently but firmly tighten the pinch bolt back down while pushing down on the top of the carb to seat the carb body against the internal o'rings. I don't know if this is causing the stalling, but its putting strain on the linkage and servo.

If you have compression (check it hot too), its prob a tuning issue.

nitro_newbie

05-21-2005, 01:03 AM

also i dont know if a bad clucth could cause it because i noticed that wen i was putting the after run oil and replaced the glow plug and cranked it for a few seconds it was actually spinnig the drive train also including the motor and it is the first time it has done this could that mean a bad clutch or cltch spring could you give any suggestions to were i can get a replacement or a better clutch system
thanx
nitro~newbie:)

T-EVO RACER

05-21-2005, 09:47 AM

good 20 percent will make it run cooler!

Duster_360

05-21-2005, 10:56 AM

I've been running the GA 3 shoe alum clutch with no probs - its 5 or 6 reviews down from the top.

http://www.beatyourtruck.com/prodreviews-drivetrain.html

Your stalling prob could def be a dragging clutch. When rpms get low the drag could be what's causing it to stall. Pull the motor out,take the clutch bell off and see what's wrong.

T-EVO RACER

05-21-2005, 12:19 PM

i run the mip 2 shoe cluthes and those are great for me!

Nitro41

05-21-2005, 06:45 PM

im building a t-maxx from new/spare parts. havent posted in a while, so im outa date on new stuff. whats the best aftermarket engine for the 2.5? -smaller than .21 and cost is not a factor. thanks

Duster_360

05-21-2005, 08:09 PM

If you want a drop-in with loads of power, OS18 TM. If you want to do some rigging to make it fit, OS 18TZ, with even more power.

nitro_newbie

05-23-2005, 01:00 AM

WELL thanks for the clutch choices i thi9nk ill just see if it is messed up wat should i look for loose clutch spring or mesed up shoes i ran it today and it seemed fine but still i want to know wat to look for.i am leanig towars the mip clutch shoes wat is the pros and cons also i will soon be getting $70 and wanted to know wat do you guys think i should buy. this wat i found so far that looks cool:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/851562.asp

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/851550.asp

does the shinny side pipe give more power and could somne one that owns it tell me if it is worth the money and if it is a drastic improvement over stock and does it exit through that hole in the chassis were the pipe for the old tmaxx use to be?thank you guys for your thoughs and great help and know by answering our questions made by some of us noobs:):):):):)
tyhanx again
nitro~newbie:)
also how do you do the pipe mod to the stock pipe were you bore ti out and wat r the performances gains and wat tools would i need to do the mod.?
thanks again!!!:):):):)

bratt01

05-23-2005, 05:23 AM

Technically no, you don't need to do that because your engine is already "broken" I know your new to nitro but you dont have to do any of that any more I for one swoped to o'donnel 20% racing fuel because it is cheaper and my motor is still running. Over the past year i've run it and I have had no problem with it and it runs better than when it was running on traxxas' 20% top fuel! Oh! let me tell you this "IT'S A SCAM TRAXXAS IS TRYING TO MAKE MORE MONEY BY SAYING THEIR FUEL IS THE BEST FOR YOU" there trying to scare you into believeing that your motor will die on you if you dont use there fuel when theres plenty fuels better than the one I use that will work really well!!!! "I've tried them"
Thanks for the advice, I think I will change to 20% (I guess 30% is too high?).

I broke the drive pin on the primary gear this weekend, now I gotta wait for my lhs to send me a new primary gear assembly(Takes two weeks). Then its back to bashing again .

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 09:51 AM

project predator done.... OS 18tm = super fast also = stripped spurs. well everythings gone pretty well i broke in the OS and on the 4th tank i blew a spur i dropped a replacement in and i melted that one so i ordered a rrp slipper and steel spur racers edge clutchbell and i also had a extra stock clutch (also melted clutch and yes duster i need the GA clutch soooo bad) all should be installed tues. anybody know how to load pics id like to get them up. also my airtronics 357 steering servo seems to be twitching, if i touch my chassis with a screw driver the servo goes nuts any ideas would be great its a relatively new servo

Duster_360

05-23-2005, 12:34 PM

Hey BR, glad to hear the Predator conversion is done. Had seen a few of your postings on UE when you were getting it sorted out. Assume its running better?

Any diff with engine running or not? This might be obvious to ask, but are you sure the crystal and all the wiring at the rx is completely seated? Another thing, is there anyway you can have dirt in the rx? Loose dirt moving around on circuit board in rx will cause probs! Got a spare crystal you can try - yours might be in the early stages of going.

Did the RRP stuff solve the spur problem? Didn't know I was going to have to replace/upgrade that too. I had no prob with spurs with the FR18, so the TM must really be stronger if its destroying them. Guy on UE keeps talking about a sprong type slipper - any idea what that is??

All I know about posting pics is you've got to have a hosting site where you actually upload them. Then paste the pic you want to show addy inbetween 2 of the [IMG] things in a post and its supposed to work. Heck, you can always send them to me - I need help with mine, I don't see what to do at the strg servo, not sure the conversion I bought used has all the parts its supposed to!

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 12:55 PM

i had the rrp spur sent 2 day usps should get it tomarrow. im really not sure if its the plastic spur or my mesh setting. i went with the steel spur because the only real reason i read against it was more rotating mass i doubt ill notice this. and as far as steel eating my clutchbell im not real worried if i need to replace a clutchbell every gallon or so it will still be worth it. ive got the reciever enclosed in a gs storm reciever box that i modded to fit behind the shock tower. my wife heard the glitching when i first turn the power on to adjust the throttle linkage (shes like hey guy somethings not right and i just rolled my eyes) and i of course ignored her because what does she know lol turns out shes right go figure maybe i should switch the throttle and steering on the reciver??? i should be up and running soon cant wait. so its just fine tuning the small stuff now. also i got the racers edge throttle linkage kit very tough shouldnt bend this anymore. ill get pics up tonight i hope.

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 01:02 PM

forgot on last post to add this.....Sprong..... from what i gather this would be more for very strong big blocks hi-temp hi-torque application i want to get the strobe slipper ofna 51t steel spur 15t revo clutchbell i heard thats the way to go. i just got the rrp for now its 1/2 the price of strobe setup and could justify this to the wife but strobe is the way to go. search Tony1034 he did a test run on the sprong good info there and hey i thinks its pretty cheap too might just give it a whirl but i think you need the strobe to make it work

Duster_360

05-23-2005, 03:23 PM

Is the racer's edge CB a vented one? In some applications, the CB gets hot enough that it'll melt a plastic spur where it contacts the pinion/CB after its turned off and just sitting there.

I think I'm getting some of this confused - the sprong stuff I was reading about was for a TNX (have one) that Tony1034 was running either a TM or a TZ on. I'll go back and re-look when I have a chance. If I remember, the strobe setup - also have to change to that offset motor mount since its so big.

I've never had a spur prob, I just use a trimmed piece of notebook paper to set the mesh. Have to take your time and re-check mesh anfter you've tightened everythimng down. It can change and be too tight. It is something that takes a few tries to get tight. There is a just barely perceptible amount of freeplay between the gears when you've got it right.

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 04:17 PM

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RCE14921 she looked vented to me in any event i think the steel spur would help me out anyhow. and i do think your right youll need the offset mount it just seemed to me that the strobe would be enough i got the impression that overkill is standard for the UE crew. http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5481&highlight=sprong was this what you read i only just glanced at it looked like trx slipper plates (better dispersement of pressure on the plates) sounds good to me

Duster_360

05-23-2005, 04:46 PM

Good deal, those are vented CBs, cooler running and less heat to get into the spur whether its steel or plastic.

That was the article I had read - you're prob right, for the TM, should be ok with the RRP setup. Tony1034 is running in on his 18TZ in his TNX (or was at some point, he changes things pretty quickly). The TNX is heavier and the TZ makes more power so I suspect thats why its needed. This thing looks like something out of a 1:1 drag car-typ UE overkill, but guess you'll never have any more probs again either.

What gearing did you settle on and can you tell if it was good choice, have you had enough run time to tell?

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 05:02 PM

72/21 but havent got the clutchbell yet so i couldnt tell ya but i know i will go with the strobe slipper ofna 51t and revo 15t clutchbell

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 08:20 PM

lets see if this works
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic244.jpg

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 08:25 PM

ok more coming
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic241.jpg
i need better batt location
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic248.jpg
modded GS storm sut reciever box
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic250.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic239.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic240.jpg
used a hpi stadium truck gas tank
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic243.jpg
and the diffs didnt explode
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic249.jpg

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 08:27 PM

last one
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic247.jpg

T-EVO RACER

05-23-2005, 08:29 PM

Thanks for the advice, I think I will change to 20% (I guess 30% is too high?).

I broke the drive pin on the primary gear this weekend, now I gotta wait for my lhs to send me a new primary gear assembly(Takes two weeks). Then its back to bashing again .
no not at all, 30 perect is perfect with a #7 to a #8(cold) plug, and I got 13 galoons on a motor with 30percent!! so go with 30

T-EVO RACER

05-23-2005, 08:32 PM

hey, what wing mount is that?? does it bolt on to the stock rear shock tower??
p.s. I wieghed my truck yesterday my maxx wieghs 8.6 pounds!!

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 08:41 PM

no its a mugen wing mount and wing stay brace with dace wing mount shock towers thats mbx-5

BishopRyan

05-23-2005, 08:43 PM

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic343.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic342.jpg
this is the body ill use it should fit good with the wing

Duster_360

05-23-2005, 09:58 PM

Looks like you figured out how to get'em posted. One comment, WOW!

Bishop, that looks just flat awesome! I see so much stuff I haven't even thought about yet. How much work was it to modd that Storm Batt/rx box? Really adds a clean look to the whole truck. How's it mounted - thru the bottom to the chassis? Does the shock mounts allow you enough room to open it? Like the fact it has the switch too, way clean!

Say what you about the reservations you had about those FLM bulks, but they look great with the exposure the Predator gives them. It should look great with that good looking lid when you get that mounted. Nice work Bishop, hope you don't mind if I borrow some of your ideas.

The logical thing would be to mount the batt in the box- thats how its done in 1/8, on my HB LP1, the batt and the rx are in there together and with it centered on the chassis, up front, it doesn't get much better. Surely there's room in there??

Man that gives me an incredible itch to get going on mine again! Work just sux and its always getting in the way!

Do me a favor when you have a chance - I need to see a side shot of the strg servo, don't understand is it flat on the chassis (upside down of course) or is ithere something it hangs from before its bolted to the chassis?

One again, really nice job!

Duster_360

05-23-2005, 10:02 PM

One more - I bet if you put a piece of shrink wrap or anything else to just protect/insulate the antenna wire so it can't/won't touch the chassis before it gets to the mount, your twitching servo will stop. Thats the first thing someone would tell you after seeing that exposed antenna wire.

BishopRyan

05-24-2005, 09:41 AM

thanks for the kind words ill get a pic of the steering setup tonight for ya. i just cant seem to fit the battery in there and i didnt want to get a bigger box but the lid opens fine ive got a xxl reciever for my mini-t im thinking of using and then i might fit the battery in there i was going to mount the box by drilling holes through the bottom but i decided not to mess with those bulkhead and steering screws so i cut some of the bottom of the box out to fit it on, there is a small lip on that box almost a step so it rests on the bulkhead screws and the lip fits tight right in behind the screws ill see if i can get a pic also. one screw on the side of the box holds the box on that its so im pretty sure ill be changing this design if i can come up with something better i also had to shave a little off of the switch area because the traxxas switch is a little big i may change that all together new switch and everything. the box it self seems a little bulking and im sure the UE guys would rip me up for it but i did like the idea of something enclosed with the switch. i ran out of fund for Ti skids and bumpers and i cant wait to go to dace single shock arms. i really just started this project thinking ill make the ultimate basher but now im kinda changing tunes and will probably go more with a LRM style. i was going to get hotbodies pro shocks (4 fronts) but he sold them i am getting X-ray buggy shocks on thur. ill see how those go but i got to be honest for just the few tanks i got on them and for just bashing those big bores with 60wt and black trinity springs are nice i was expecting worse but i do think with heavy jumping they wouldnt hold up. i hope the antenna wire is the source of the twitching ill tape or shrink wrap to see if it helps. thanks again.

BishopRyan

05-24-2005, 06:56 PM

hey duster i hope this is the pics you wanted
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic347.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic351.jpg
pic inside box i cut out a little so it would rest on the screws ill probably add some tape in here so its sealed.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic353.jpg
i saw a few posts of your on the savage how do like your savy ive been thinking about getting the new 4.6

Duster_360

05-24-2005, 10:38 PM

BR- thats exactly the view I really needed, a big thanks once again! I had been afraid I was missing something there - all the pics I've seen the servo looked like it was sitting on something (upside down of course), so I was concerned I had some missing parts. At least now I know the strg servo area is not missing anything! I think I'm missing some of those thick alum washers, but not certain yet.

Def add something to seal the bot of the box. It looks bigger than I guess it really is. My LP1 rx/batt box has enough room for a 2 on 3 hump pac and the rx I use - a micro sized futaba rx (1.3" x 1.1" x 0.6") - even have room to pad everything with foam. I run everything with a 3PK and those little micro rxs and have never had a prob of any kind.

I've been doing some good - found a few items last night and got them ordered. I'm about to break down and buy new bulks, one min I want to get Dace bulks next I want the FLMs. Need to decide before the funds gets spent somewhere else (Savage...).

Yea, the 4.6 is going to be awesome in another totally diff way than the Predator. I've been researching for a few months and decided I'd try the big boy so I bought one (they're getting hard to find). Its been real interesting cause I'm assembling mine around a modded set of black anodized LCG TVPs with added bulkheads and support pieces made possible by the new plates. I'm waiting on Tower for some strg brgs and a longer center dogbone required by the stretched chassis. I've had the last 2 days off and have gotten a lot done on it, but I'm about to have to get back to the grind again.

T-EVO RACER

05-24-2005, 11:10 PM

no its a mugen wing mount and wing stay brace with dace wing mount shock towers thats mbx-5
but would it bolt onto the stock shocktowers??

Duster_360

05-24-2005, 11:29 PM

In a word, no. There are no holes on the Tmaxx stock shock towers for it to bolt on to and no place to even make holes. If you want to install a set of Dace Mfg shock towers, then the Mugen wing will bolt on. If you go over to traxxas forums, I think you can find a wing how to using a search in the Tmaxx forum.

BishopRyan

05-25-2005, 09:22 AM

if i had to do it over again i would have got dace or 7075 GA bulks prob. the GA i really like the extra support the bulk brace offers. and if your refering to the washers i used for that servo i just had them laying around and decided to use them for a little extra support. check out Tonys Screws at UE his screw sets are very complete i ordered a set made for the predator and he sends enough that youll have a little left over there super strong and all hex head

Duster_360

05-25-2005, 11:43 AM

The used Predator kit I got came with instructions which included an inverntory - looking at what I got vs inventory, I'm missing stuff. I've been "screwed" by Tony a few times already. I'll go ahead and get another for the Predator, so I'll have it all.

Still not decided on bulks, but leaning toward Dace. I nmeed to do more reading over at UE an get a feel for opinions over there.

T-EVO RACER

05-25-2005, 11:49 PM

ok thanx for the help!

BishopRyan

05-26-2005, 05:47 PM

hey duster thanks for the lead on the GD board. i looked and looked for different rate springs found the ofna ones but super $$$$$$$$ and then it dawned on me UE racerX springs 16.00 for a assortment i think they should work for me on the x-ray. new shocks are nice not as nice as racerX but nicer than big bores but with the stock springs i get no rebound and i mean no rebound. still trying to get this servo figured out im going to use fuel tubing around the exposed antenna wire for shielding and ill try a few UE tricks i picked up on my post there. got the RRP steel spur and Racers edge clutchbell installed last night hopfully my mesh setting is good. how far along are you on your project and i looked at the savy forum those extended braces look nice.

Duster_360

05-26-2005, 08:05 PM

Got my parts today, am getting ready to power up radio gear and set centers, attach servo arms and assemble the radio box. Once thats done, I've got to clearance one of the added alum braces for center dogbone and I'll be able to put the front and rear ends on chassis and finish the strg. Next thing is clutch and installing motor. I'm getting there. Work is taking 10hrs a day right now, so I'm tight on spare time.

I've ordered parts for the wing, linkage and screw kit. I want to take the time an assemble Racer-X shocks, they look awesome. I've never assembled any shocks until yesterday when I finished 8 for the 4.6. I wanted to use the 4.6 shocks as "practice" so whatever caused me probs I've got sorted out before I start the Racer-X shocks, really had no probs. I have plenty of green slime left, so I hope across the weekend to get those done, but I've also got to work the entire weekend and holiday to get this rush job finished for a new client. Yea, it sux, but I'm making some big bucks too. When you're a consultant like I am, you work when there's work, not much choice.

Glad you've found springs - sounds like the best deal. No rebound? - they sound stiff/tight, maybe free up a little when get some useage. Fuel tbg should do the trick for insulating antenna wire, hope that kills the twitch. Sounds like you'll be running this weekend. Hope to hear you've got it dialed!!

bratt01

05-30-2005, 01:15 AM

Hey guys,

Bought some diff oil this weekend to tune the diffs a bit, but one problem. How do I remove the diffs ? Where do I start, to me it looks like I basically have to take the whole truck apart ? Any help (procedure wise) would be appreciated.
Cheers

Duster_360

05-30-2005, 08:12 AM

The diffs aren't sealed in the Tmaxx. Oil will leak out - won't happen instantly, but it will leak out making a mess. You can "tune" to some extent using heavy auto grease or lock them using something like silly putty.

They are hard to get at - basically, pull one side off underneath the chassis - remove wheels, skids and a bulkhead. You may want to remove chassis brace too. That exposes diffs. Remove axle pins, remove bulkhead, remove center shaft pins and the diff is out. Loads of trouble for little (temporary) gain. Might want to upgrade you're in there -

T-EVO RACER

05-30-2005, 10:29 AM

yeah that sucks like how he revo's diffs are easy to get to and can use diff. oil!!

Duster_360

05-30-2005, 12:22 PM

There's a mod that was posted on the trx forums about 2 yrs ago about using part of the spring out of a ball point pen to put tension on the spyder gears, holding them apart up against the diff cup. Some swear that it changes the diff so they unloads less, but others say they get no difference in action. Me, I've just shimmed them and filled them with the heaviest auto grease I could find.

I guess if you're trying to use say 100,000 or something heavier, that would stay in the diff longer, but its still going to leak a little. The diffs are not sealed.

BishopRyan

05-30-2005, 07:53 PM

everythings was pretty well dialed in. the bindage in my linkage was due to a little drag on the servo horn and the lundsford ball ends that the turnbuckles are attached to i back them off a little and shaved the servo horn down and presto the servo is back to what a airtronics 357 should be. i ran well for about 4 tanks and then i kept popping my throttle linkage off of the carb ball im not sure what kept causing this but it would pop off at wot and i had a couple of runaways and the last time it popped off bam there goes another clutch im a good 200 feet away and its wot pinned against the fence when i get there and shut it down i looked at the vents in the clutchbell and all i saw was a busted clutch spring i let her set for a day and inspected a little while ago and as you can see
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic358.jpg
not so good i noticed a very small amount of leakage from the carb boot (poss fuel)and felt the carb ball it was a little greasy so i put a little silicone there and i mean a little cause i was little scared to to be messing around to much
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/BishopRyan/Pic360.jpg
well anyway i hope this will help im gonna put a rubberband around the carb and back over the cooling head so if i loose a throttle linkage again the rubberband will close the carb for me. does anyone have any other ideas here.
Question for the Duster 360 ill probably go ahead and get the GA clutch i know you've had success with does alum. shoes run cooler or should i switch to carbon fiber and what brake are you using im burning up my brakes like crazy with just the first 4 or 5 tanks. I hope no one minds the fact that now that i've learned to post pics i'll be abusing that luxury I like to tell stories with pics sorry. i hope everyone had as a eventful weekend as me.

Duster_360

05-30-2005, 09:16 PM

Bishop - does your radio have EPA adjustment? Sounds like the servo is pulling too hard and thats why its popping off. Its gotten a little of the new worn off now and the servo is able to pull hard enough to cause it to pop off?? If you don't have epa on your radio, you may need to reinforce that joint with some fine wire to give it a little more strength to stand the servos pull. Is the ball lined up with the servo?

I adj mine with the air filter off until I just barely see the slide disappear at WOT. Servos are strong enough that without any limits that they can flex the stock chassis of a Tmaxx. Used to wonder what caused engine to move when I was playing with mine while it wasn't running - its the servo (pre 3PK radio change)!

Definitely put a rubber band on carb to pull it shut in case you lose it again! NEM sells a large oring for doing that and I use them on all my engines - they are sturdier than a rubber band, but rubber band will work. I don't have a vented CB on my FR18 that uses the GA clutch, and I'm suspicious mine is getting hot - sometimes its hard to restart after refueling. With vented CB (a change I plan to make - the 4.6 has one that got mounted last night) the alum might not be hot at all. I would give it a try. Remember, you're picking up a 3rd shoe with that clutch. That should help too. As an aside, I'm trying carbon shoes in the 4.6 to further help cooling in that area. I've read of some melted spurs after shut down due to how hot the pinion is.

I need to find a vented 22T CB - any ideas and where have you seen carbon shoes that would work? Forgot, I'm using that trx carbon fiber brake and have to dial out some brake cause I can endo it by stopping too hard.

Duster_360

05-30-2005, 09:37 PM

If you've got the epa adjusted for the throttle, make sure that you have the throttle linkage adjusted so its horizontal from the time it leaves the servo all the way to the carb. If you're pulling at an angle, even a slight angle, it can cause it to pop off the carb ball end. You can adjust that ball end to get it all flat - theres a screw that will release it and when you have it where you want it, you tighten it back down in the new position.

I think the pics are great, I sure done have any probs there. When I get up and going, you'll have to clue me in so I can post some too.

BishopRyan

05-30-2005, 11:30 PM

oring sounds good whats NEM and please expand a little on what you wrote earlier about reinforcing the joint with fine wire im curious about what you mean. and cringe im using a traxxas stock radio thats one upgrade that has dodged my list for a long time. i have made quite a few adjustments to the carb ball and i was thinking tonight about moving the linkage down a hole on the servo horn to shorten the pull that might help a little you can find a vented clutchbell here its what i have https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RCE14921 and look here a combo pack https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RCELE4902 and a 22t here https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RCE14922 one left though. check www.photobucket.com its so simple even i figured it out it lets you search you computer for your pics and then load them on you online album them just below the pic copy the line that read img and then paste here pretty cool and easy

Duster_360

05-30-2005, 11:43 PM

NEM - new era models http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2464&session_id=iudeudtsgfylqqwbsdhecvyjnxobquia

I'll explain more tomorrow about the wire, gotta go right now! Thanks for the links - I hate Stormer's search function, all I ever manage to bring up is what I don't want!

Duster_360

05-31-2005, 06:37 AM

The radio is holding you back - prob figured that out on your own. I've heard folks say you can get a decent radio with most of the adjustability for about $100, but don't know much about that. I got real lucky and got my 3PK in a deal on ebay - I had to pay alot, but it came with a bunch of elec motors and several rxs that I sold on ebay and after all was said and done, I got a $300 radio for $175 + the work of selling the extra stuff. The radio was brand new - was door prize at a big regional race and was used only for that race - got all the paper proving what seller was telling me, so as I said, I got lucky. I would've never spent that much!

I think you may need to go the other way on the horn to use as much of the servos travel as possible so there's less overtravel and less force on the ball when its at mechanical stop. If you can find some thin wire - some strong stuff, I've seen where its been used to wrap around the ball and link end to give it a little more hold - if you have one of those real sm zip ties, you could try that too. Wire is less bulky though. Another solution would be to change th/br servo to something with less torque. Oh, and Bishop, with your setup, you really need a failsafe! Thanks for the links!

BishopRyan

05-31-2005, 09:14 AM

thanks for the link a failsafe is another piece thats been on the short list for some time. ive been looking at airtronics mx-3 not to pricey and would help me out quite a bit multiple memory is nice too. ive got a ton of small zip ties ill give it a whirl also i still have the stock throttle servo i may switch back until i upgrade the radio. i agree about stormer even tower is bad too.

Duster_360

05-31-2005, 12:16 PM

The MX-3 would make you a great radio - has epa and other goodies as you're aware. Would prob be worth the time to swap the stock servo back in until you can pick up the radio and adjust your more powerful servo so its not causing this prob. You're lucky, loosing the linkage like that, OS only goes about 3/4 open. You could wind up toasting a motor!

RCfrodoRC

06-15-2005, 12:50 AM

what is the fastest engine you can get for this truck and how fast does it go

BishopRyan

06-16-2005, 02:37 PM

O.S. .18TZ just over 2 hp or a O.S .18TM is a direct fit just under 2hp ive got the TM and it screams the 2.5 is the best .15 or you can get a big block conversion but your tranny and diffs wouldnt hold up i think for the money a TM is a great deal youll be hitting around 45mph depending on gearing

RCfrodoRC

06-17-2005, 08:04 PM

OK thanks dude:-)

oggydog

06-24-2005, 01:52 AM

t-maxx or revo which one should I get I have an e-maxx and a lot of parts for it so the t-maxx would be a wise choice and a $100 is a $100. A little help would be great plan on a lot of bashing a little racing and a lot of mud (e-maxx is scared of mud) so any ideas which I should get?

Duster_360

06-24-2005, 08:30 PM

Sounds like you'd be ahead of the game to go with a Tmaxx since you have an Emaxx and parts. Like you said, the $100 diff in prices could be $100 worth of hopups on a new Tmaxx, lol!

oggydog

06-26-2005, 01:05 PM

Well I got the REVO glad I did a blast to drive and the extra stuff like dual steer servos and the peak chager and 5-cell NiMh receiver pack are a nice bonus.

RCfrodoRC

07-04-2005, 01:09 PM

i want either a t-maxx or mgt and the t-maxx seems faster so i think i will get one.

RCfrodoRC

07-05-2005, 12:39 AM

even though a mgt is slower i heard it would run all over a t-maxx and it is bigger.

Nitro41

07-05-2005, 11:47 PM

will the new revo engine work in a 2.5 tmaxx? (with or without mods)

or is it the same engine with a different head?

RCfrodoRC

07-05-2005, 11:52 PM

will the new revo engine work in a 2.5 tmaxx? (with or without mods)

or is it the same engine with a different head?
i've seenpeople who had them but i'm not sure if they had to make it custom fit or it dropped right in.

Newdude

07-06-2005, 11:06 AM

I think it's a different head but same engine you can buy the head from traxxas.
My question.
Where and how do you fill up the shocks with shock fluid.

Duster_360

07-06-2005, 04:21 PM

Take the shock off the truck. Compress and remove spring. The piece at the top unscrews (shock cap) and the fluid is put in through there. Pump the shock rod up and down slowly to let any trapped air bleed out. Fill to slightly below the top of the shock body.

Check the underside of the shock cap for the rubber bladder - the bulge shouuld be pointed toward the shock (down) - bladder is why you don't fill to top - bladder takes up some space and if you fill it, the bladder will push it out, making a mess. When you're ready, do not overtighten the shock cap (be careful not to cross thread it) it'll distort the bladder and the shock will leak. Want the shock cap tight, but not too tight.