T-Maxx 2.5 forum

[Newdude]

Ok thx guys I finally got it. It took a vice and to really work at it! But it's workin so I'm happy. Nitro do you mean you bought like disc brakes or somethin for them or are you talking about how it is stock.

[Duster_360]

Newdude - if your caps were on that tight, look at the bladders and make sure they weren't damaged. The caps don't need to be that tight.

The shocks will leak from the top around the shock cap if the bladders are not in good shape - they provide the seal at the top.

[Duster_360]

Nitro41 - try this - exploded view of trans showing the brake arm and how its positioned on the trans. Brake arm goes in notch down with the notch facing out away from the trans. There's a small brass puck that sits in the notch at the base of the arm that contacts the brake, transferring the action of the arm to clamping on the brake. Hope this helps.

http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/tmaxx/blueprints/030513-tmx25-tranny-assy.pdf

[Newdude]

It didn't look damaged it looked good it was round no dents or anything. I tightened to where it wasn't as tight as it was. Thx duster

[Fitz]

I don't wanna get off subject here but i got questions.

I'm not a complete newbie and know enough about Rc Cars to be dangerous to myself and others with them so i thought i'd ask you. I currently own a Losi XXX-t Matt Francis( i absolutly abhor and i'm lookin to go to nitro. now I own a good FM Radio and reciever and good stick packs and a great charger. everything else is for electric. i own 2 esc's, a metal-gear-servo, and three motors. Now should i sell all this stuff(including the car chassis, and excluding the Radio/reciever) and try to buy I T-maxx(duh, what else?). Or just sell my stuff and continue with guitar. Note: I probably won't run every week( it's a pity but I'm busy with my band and family.)


Thanks for any help/wisdom you have. :cool:

[Fitz]

I don't wanna get off subject here but i got questions.

I'm not a complete newbie and know enough about Rc Cars to be dangerous to myself and others with them so i thought i'd ask you. I currently own a Losi XXX-t Matt Francis( i absolutly abhor and i'm lookin to go to nitro. now I own a good FM Radio and reciever and good stick packs and a great charger. everything else is for electric. i own 2 esc's, a metal-gear-servo, and three motors. Now should i sell all this stuff(including the car chassis, and excluding the Radio/reciever) and try to buy I T-maxx(duh, what else?). Or just sell my stuff and continue with guitar. Note: I probably won't run every week( it's a pity but I'm busy with my band and family.)


Thanks for any help/wisdom you have. :cool:


Hello.................Anybody there? :confused: UHHH GUYS?!!?!

Were'd every body go?

[Duster_360]

I've read your note a few times over the past several days, and I don't know what you're looking for. It's like you're asking someone to tell you what to do?
I don't run my nitros every day or even evey week, heck with my job, I'm lucky to get to run one once a month. If you follow maintenance protocols (mainly applying after run oil -ARO, draining the unused fuel and servicing air filter), sitting will not damage a nitro. Mine sit unused, between runs, sometimes for months.

If you want to get into nitro, do it. Sell the electric stuff unless you're going to stay in that as well. Use the money to buy or help buy your Tmaxx or upgrades that you will want/be necessary. The radio, receiver, stick pacs, and charger aer a good start. If the MG servo is strong enough, you may be able to use that too (stock strg servo is weak).

You can devote as much or as little of your time to the Tmaxx/nitro hobby as you want. One thing to be aware of, these things break parts and need repair and maintenance to stay in top running condition. When I started, runing for an hour was followed by a few hours of repair and maintenance. Now after running one for 3 years, its more like 10 minutes of maintenance since it rarely breaks anything now. I'll do a major tear down about once a season if I feel like it, but that is usually upgrade driven rather than anything thats wrong or going wrong. Maybe some of this has helped, I wasn't sure of what you were looking for in the way of advice, good luck with your decision!

[rcster3000]

Im Stupid!!!!!!!!!!!!

[rcster3000]

.................................................. ................................................ma ybe?

[rcster3000]

.................................................. ...................cool!

[va_connoisseur]

New to the RC world and looking to purchase a T-Maxx this weekend. Can someone point in the direction (web links) of some good aftermarket parts? I also want to get some recommendations from you guys/gals as what should be the first upgrade I should do. I was thinking of adding a dual exhaust and lightweight suspension parts. Thanks

[Duster_360]

Just about anything you can imagine for Tmaxx can be found here - just search on Tmaxx. Do some exploring!

http://www.towerhobbies.com/

Avoid the sweated copper pipe dual exhaust thats on ebay, noisy and not good for the motor. First upgrade - ideas include rechargeable hump pac and charger to replace expendable alkaline AAs, RPM a arms (practically indestructible), alum chassis braces and or metal skids, lighter tires (something like Sporttrax tires), hi torque metal geared steering servo and better servo saver, and the list goes on and on.

One thing you need to seriously consider is a failsafe to protect your investment. Welcome to the forums, good luck with your Tmaxx and have fun!

[va_connoisseur]

Thanks for the heads up. I picked up a failsafe and a temp gauge. I am looking at either the slim-line dual or the Power Products dual. I'm looking to set the truck up mostly for parking lot fun and maybe a little racing but nothing serious.

[va_connoisseur]

I have just purchased a new T-Maxx. I am in the process of upgrading the vehicle. I have installed a fail-safe and heat temp sensor. My local hobby shop guy is trying to talk me into buying a CVD upgrade, saying that it is needed to increase the longevity of the vehicle.

Of course, he had a $150 set he was glad to sale me. My issues are:
1. Is this a good investment?
2. I was planning on upgrading to an aluminum suspension, this is why is said it was required? Is that true?

I'm a newbie to the RC world. Ask me about the Kreb's Cycle or Na-K pump and I'm all over it but the T-Maxx and 1/10 scale is new to me. Thanks in advance for the assistance.

[MisterD]

What brand of CVD? $150 sounds a bit steep, I bought a complete set (2 x center and 4 x wheel) of RD Logics CV joints for well under $100 and they are very good.

As far as aluminum suspension parts go, I would stay away from them. Bulkheads OK, even shock towers, but not A-arms, they are too easy to bend in a crash or jump and then your hosed. Get some RPM A-arms, they're cheaper than alum, they bend but bend back, and they have a lifetime warranty against breaking.

As far as CV's being required for alum suspension, never heard of that, but doesn't sound right, when searching for new parts it might be time to search for a new LHS, this one sounds like he's trying to steer you down the garden path. HTH

[Fat Old-Guy]

Thanks for the heads up. I picked up a failsafe and a temp gauge. I am looking at either the slim-line dual or the Power Products dual. I'm looking to set the truck up mostly for parking lot fun and maybe a little racing but nothing serious.

I'm running the SLim-Line dual rear exhaust and its been a good set-up for me. I'm no serious racer, but my sons (ages 26, 24 and 20) and I have a track in the back yard at my place.

The sound is different, better IMO, and the performance wasn't impaired with the switch.

I've also installed an RPM center skid plate (also helps stiffen the chasis by tieing the two braces together) and bulk head braces, the Traxxas aluminum Big Bore shocks, and a set of RPM Titan wheels (Stable-Maxx offset) running the Sport Track tires from Traxxas.

[va_connoisseur]

Thanks for the heads up on the muffler. I will google them later this week. Nore sure if I made it clear but I purchased a "used" T-Maxx so I am doing a full rebuild/refurb. One of the parts I have had my eye on is the aluminum suspension. Has anyone installed one? Pros/Cons? How is this set?

http://www.houstonrc.com/2coolrc/Model_T-Maxx/suspension.html

A guy at my LHS said that getting aluminum will cause other parts to stress and break but this system looks like a complete new suspension. I figure with the aluminum braces and skid plates, this should make the rig "built-proof". Also, I am thinking of going with a set of beadlock rims. Any suggestions on those?

[RCfroman]

Anyone know where the cheapest place is to buy a new t-maxx?

[Fat Old-Guy]

Well, except for shock bodies, I'm not a huge fan of aluminum suspension components... too many RC-10s in my past I suspect. :D

I prefer a high grade nylon/plastic that will take abuse and spring back... aluminun seems more apt to bend or crack, in my limited experience.

Aluminum sure does look nice though, and if you are build a show truck its the only way to go.

[Duster_360]

RCfroman - the cheapest I've seen is Ultimate Hobbies at $335 - its free shipping for this too, about 10th down on this list

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//l126.html


va_connoisseur - I agree with Fat Old-Guy. Not many seem to understand you'll bend alum suspension parts unless you go all the way and upgrade to the UE stuff that will cost more than you spent on the new Tmaxx. Once you bent an alum part, you'll never get it trued up again and your Tmax will track funny. You'll be replacing a lot of alum parts. Integy has a reputation for making parts out of cast alum and they break and bend too easily. Go up to the MT forum and do a search on Integy - see what others experience has been.

Go with something like RPM a arms and you'll be a lot better off. Thats what I run on one of mine and my other uses stock plastic. Beadlocks weigh too much and will kill acceleration with the increased rotating weight. I went with SportMaxx wheels with Sporttraxx tires and dropped more than 4 ounces. Made an easy to see diff in off the line punch and acceleration. If you really are interested in bullet proof visit here - theirs is about as bullet proof as it gets -

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store

[nitro_newbie]

hey i was thinking about a .21 since i have the parts but i dont want a high powered motor i was thinking of the hpi .21bb mainly because it only cost 79.99 at lhs and does that thing have enough power to destroy my tranny and diff i think it has like 1.90 horesepower or more but i dont think so or would a hyper 4 port be better because im sure that one has 1.90hpmy truck is all stock.
i forgot to ad this engine into the ones i was looking at: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLU03&P=0
this big blocks have the same amount of hp as the fantom fr18 but is it the tourqe that will drestroy my gears and wat do you guys with the fantom have upgraded that has busted
thanx
nitro~newbie:) :cool:

[Duster_360]

OS is very conservative about rating their engines. They rate their 18TX at 1.8 while RCCA tested it at 2.28. That RG-X will easily be able to shred your drivetrain. I run OS 21RG in one of my 1/8th Lightning buggys and it's a step down from that one and its got plenty of power on tap to make my buggy rip.

Tmaxx just not built to take BB torque and power levels. I've read many threads on the Traxxas forums of BB swaps that turn into a money pit replacing the same destroyed parts time and time again. Unless you're going to do a full conversion to a new chassis, the stock chassis will be nearly unmanagable with the short wheelbase and BB power even if you do upgrade the trans, the axles, the diffs, the spur, and the clutch with parts made for BB power.

You'll spend more time driving and having fun, spending less money to swap a dropin 18 (Fantom, OS 18TM or even the OS 18CV-R). These won't eat the trans and you'll be able to upgrade as you ocassionally break axles to CVDs. Usually the last to break with an 18 will be the diffs - but an 18 will let them go usually about a gallon before they need fixing. With a 21 that stuff will be toasted shortly after the engine is thru breakin with the first couple of times you've got good traction and give it WOT. The reliable 21s Tmaxxes (Unlimited Engineering modded SuperMaxxes) usually run $1500+ before they're finished. If it was as simple as just bolting in a 21, they'd be all over.

Do yourself and your wallet a favor and spend some time researching this before you build yourself a money pit thats always seems broken sitting on the shelf eating your money waiting on parts.

[nitro_newbie]

thanx i think i should wait and save up some money and upgrade the drive train the chassi is already built my dad made one out of 3mm titanium that he got from work. it is about 2 inches longer than stock and pretty light too. were trying to get a good desingn for some custom cvds or universals but my dad doest have that much time so it is on hold for that. but thanx you guys are the best at answering all my questions.
thanx a bunch:):):):):):)
nitro~newbie:)

[Desert Rat]

New question:

I'v got a T-Maxx on it's 2nd engine, and it's still having overheating problems. I run an aftermarket head (blue anodized, I forgot the brand), and usually run the truck w/ no body just to get airflow. The carb is set as rich as it can go without getting sluggish, and the truck still shows signs of overheating. I used to use the high-tech "spit test", but I just got an on board temp gauge, and what I saw blew me away.

I broke the new engine in as directed and the temp stayed at or below the low 200's. On the 6th or 7th tank I got a little crazy on the track at the local high school. I love doing this cuz it looks like the truck is running on ice. It shoots huge roostertails as it slowly creeps and sways around in circles. Soon the engine bogged, then stalled as soon as I got off the throttle. By the time I got to it, the temp gauge still read 468!! It ran fine after cooling off, but I'm sure temps like those are NOT good.

I live in the So.Cal. desert, and it can get to 110 in the shade, but I still think something is not right. Even with an aftermarket head, no body, and a rich carb, am I still limited to part throttle and hard surfaces where RPM will translate directly into airflow? Somebody please help before I torch another motor!

[Duster_360]

Wow! You should be able to get it to run at 170F above ambient so at 110F, you should be able to get it to run at 280, not 468!! That temp, however short you ran with it that way, has already cost you some engine life, but I suspect you know that. Traxxas doesn't like you going over 300F.

Some fuels affect temps, what are you running? I've always run TF, but I remember reading about overheating probs being solved with a simple fuel switch.

Offhand sounds like you're lean, but if you richen and it goes sluggish, then thats no answer - just curious, but how much do you move the needles? My experience with a 2.5 is it has a relatively small sweet spot where its "happy", I adj in hours like on a clock face and then run for a while to see what the change did and always after I have it at operating temp.

What kind of time do you get on a pinch test? If your lsn is lean, I've read some will run real hot even with a slightly rich hsn.

I have a big back yard covered in pretty lush grass. It causes mine to run high temps. When I take it to a dirt lot or the street, temps come down. I bought a Nova Race Pro cooling head cause I want to do most of my running in my back yard (no kids, no dogs, no one asking me "can I drive it?", lol). It dropped my temps 40-60F,was at 290-300, now run 240-250 in the grass.

I believe you can get yours to run cooler and still be happy with performance. Another possible issue is an air leak. Can you richen and see temps drop? A slight air leak is hard to pinpoint, but characteristically it runs hot and stays hot regardless of what you do with the needles (within reason, not literally).

One other things springs to mind - your temp gage. Can you borrow an IR gage to check its reading? I have a venom on board and I carefully followed instructions about where to place the little sensor (thermistor) on the engine relative to the exhaust and on level with the glo plug. It agrees well with my raytec or the flashpoint temp guns I have. Some things to think about, hope some of it helps.

[Desert Rat]

Thanks for responding.

I run O'Donnell 20% fuel, always have. I adjust the hsn about a quarter turn @ a time. I know that's allot, but I don't seem to have the eye to really tell the difference at anything less. I haven't adjusted the lsn, since the pinch test cuts the motor out in about 3-4 seconds. My temp gauge is also a Venom, and I haven't tried to confirm it's readings.

One note I didn't mention before: I went to an 18-tooth clutch bell to get more bottom end for low-speed hill climbs. I know this raises the shift point and makes the motor over-rev a bit. I imagine an underdriven motor at full throttle with very little airflow is just asking for trouble. I haven't adjusted the shift point yet, but I will.

Also, how does low humidity affect the mixture &/or heat? I'll try adjusting the hsn in smaller increments and see how rich I can get it. Again, I feel like I haven't developed the eye/ear to tell minute differences from one run to the next. Any tips on how to recognize the finer details about what the motor is doing?

Thanks again - looking forward to your response.

[Duster_360]

I don't believe I've ever heard of anyone saying O'Donnels causes overheating, not sure which one it was that I've read complaints about, but pretty sure it isn't the one you're using. Try going to half the amount you're turning the needles now - to 1/8th turns, just split the qtr turn in half. If you start doing that, you'll learn it and will have more of a chance to hit the sweet spot. Mine seems to be about 1/4t from in it, to out of it and running poorly. You have to give any change you make a chance to stabilize - run it for several minutes an see what the temp did, how it accelerates, whether the smoke trail thinned out or got thicker, things like that.

Humidity is water vapor (which replaces air) so low humidty means engine is getting more air which means its already lean due to the lower humidity. Obviously need to richen it up. The initial setting ran fairly well here in the humidity of Houston, TX so the default at 4T has some humidity dialed in.

The sound you don't want to hear is a tinny sound - that's the only way I can describe it, it doesn't sound healthy at all, like its trying and just can't. The base note in a good running engine is absent and its particularly pronounced at or near WOT.

I thought I had mine set perfectly and when trying to lower the idle, realized the idle screw wasn't changing anything. My lsn was set too rich, had to start over. There'e a decent range where the 2.5 will seem to be running right, but something will tell you, you're not there yet - temperature too high, or not being able to affect the idle.

Haven't asked about smoke trail, but I assume yours leaves a good smoke trail? If its not leaving visible smoke, its too lean.

Traxxas' site has a decent 2.5 tuning guide - I'm going to include the link since its got 3 or 4 short vids with audio that will help if you haven't seen them. Another good thing to do is go back and watch the tuning part of the DVD - it'll mean a lot more now that before. The good stuff starts about 1'2 way down. Also, that red card that came with the Tmaxx has some helpful hints on what effects the various things like altitude, humidity, temperature etc have on the engine. That will help figure out which direction you need to make a change in and its not always obvious.

http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/trx_sl_tuning25.htm

[Desert Rat]

Thanks,

I've been messing with it on the street and got another 1/8th+ turn out of it. I had to raise the idle set screw a bit, but it still just starts laboring when pulling out of the hole. The smoke trail is thick and the RR tire is soaked in fuel. Still running w/ no body, and trying to keep the speed up to maintain airflow. Alas, temps still raising to the low 300's.

Haven't checked for air leaks, still not too sure how to. I'm beginning to think that I need to go back to the 20 tooth clutch bell. Maybey the RPMs w/ the 18t are just too much for the amount of air it gets.

Still, the worst of the overheating takes place while doing doughnuts on dirt. This, to me, lends support to my high-RPM, WOT, low-speed/low-airflow theory. Then again, what do I know - I'm the one having problems.

I'd like to think that I can eventually tune this thing to drive to drive the way I like w/o grenading the motor. Just out of curiosity; what is the biggest, most effective (and probably most costly) cooling head I can run on this motor? I swear, if nothing else works I'll end up installing a CPU cooling fan on the head!

[Duster_360]

This starts to sound more like an air leak or that your temp is not representative of the glow plug but is being influenced by the exhaust which will be much higher(700-800F). If I remember Venom wanted you to place the little knot in the sensor line (thats the sensor, a thermistor) 90degress away from the exhaust, but level with the glowplug wedged between 2 fins. I have mine all the way up against the cylinder.

The fuel/oil on the tire and thick smoke says its rich. Temps (If accurate) say its not. Usually with an air leak, it runs hot no matter what you do. Classic test for an air leak is to use a spray bottle of soapy water and while engine is running, you spray the engine down one area at a time. If the idle drops while on one area, thats where the air leak is (the solution blocks the extra air, changing the idle). The usual places are the backplate and the carb neck. Since you've swapped the head out, I'd look hard at that area as well. You did snug all the head bolts down to just barely tight, then tighten in 2 or 3 passes in a criss-cross pattern to prevent any warping of the head? Don't mean to be insulting of your mechanical talents, but kinda grasping at straws. I've seen head leaks due to warped head due to improper tightening. One bad enough, engine would not run!

Definitely the 18t CB has raised rpms - that gear change is a little over 11%, so at any given speed, rpms is up 11%. That shouldn't be a make or break issue. I'm going to guess if you go back to a 20t CB, it won't make much diff. Sure your gear mesh is not too tight and there's no binding anywhere in the drivetrain - when engine's off, it rolls freely?

When I run mine hard, long passes at WOT in 2nd gear where I get to hold it for maybe 4 or 5 sec and then turn around and run it back and do this for several passes, that is where I'll see my highest temps. I just don't do that a lot. Its not good for any rc engine to hold them WOT for extended periods - you'll hear the dreaded "tink" of a snapped con rod.

I would really figure a way to verify the temp. If thats wrong, all this is wasted time cause you could be running and not worrying. The biggest (possible biggest temp drop) is that huge head by ACNCM (bottom left)-

http://www.acncm.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=11

One last note - been on a thread about overheating/tuning issues that turned out to be a leak in the fuel tank. A very hard to see crack near the filler neck, so I guess you need to check your tank out too.

Might want to venture over to traxxas forums and read the overheating threads over there too - there may better help there.

http://monster.traxxas.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=36

[Duster_360]

Desert Rat - me again, read through this short thread if you haven't seen it already - some diff ideas - esp Ducati's idea with the sponge? Have never seen that one.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=202207

[Desert Rat]

Thanks. I cheched it out and the sponge idea is definitely very interesting.

I had some interesting problems this morning. Tried to start the truck w/ no luck. ez start said the plug was not getting (or using) any juice so I tested it w/ a meter, which claimed it was good. Swapped it out anyway w/ the same results. Checked the wire, and it's good too. I'm assuming the yellow wire is loose. Actually, the cap bolt that holds it to the block may have stripped out the motor mount - oops! It's a 6061 motor mount too, I don't know how I did that. Anyway the real interesting part came next.

I've got stuff to do today and can't deal w/ this right now, so I emptied the fuel and went through the after run procedures. As I did, I peered down the head to see WD-40 spraying out the head bolt holes onto the plug and around the outside! I've had the head on and off several times, and I always tighten it down in at least 4-5 stages and in a star pattern. I don't have an inch/lb wrench, so I eyeball it, but I've never had this problem before. I thought maybey the bolts stretched or vibrated loose, so I went to tighten them, but found they were all very tight. I must've blown out the copper gasket or warped the head, though I'm not too sure.

Now I'm looking at a new motor mount and probably a new head, and who knows what else. Aaaarrrgh!! You may've answered this before, but what kind of head do you recommend? Is that going to be all I need to replace, if at all? Everything is breaking at once - what am I doing wrong here?

[Desert Rat]

Thanks. I cheched it out and the sponge idea is definitely very interesting.

I had some interesting problems this morning. Tried to start the truck w/ no luck. ez start said the plug was not getting (or using) any juice so I tested it w/ a meter, which claimed it was good. Swapped it out anyway w/ the same results. Checked the wire, and it's good too. I'm assuming the yellow wire is loose. Actually, the cap bolt that holds it to the block may have stripped out the motor mount - oops! It's a 6061 motor mount too, I don't know how I did that. Anyway the real interesting part came next.

I've got stuff to do today and can't deal w/ this right now, so I emptied the fuel and went through the after run procedures. As I did, I peered down the head to see WD-40 spraying out the head bolt holes onto the plug and around the outside! I've had the head on and off several times, and I always tighten it down in at least 4-5 stages and in a star pattern. I don't have an inch/lb wrench, so I eyeball it, but I've never had this problem before. I thought maybey the bolts stretched or vibrated loose, so I went to tighten them, but found they were all very tight. I must've blown out the copper gasket or warped the head, though I'm not too sure.

Now I'm looking at a new motor mount and probably a new head, and who knows what else. Aaaarrrgh!! You may've answered this before, but what kind of head do you recommend? Is that going to be all I need to replace, if at all? Everything is breaking at once - what am I doing wrong here?

[Duster_360]

Unusual in that you didn't see anything when you last were running it. Obviously when you pull the head off you'll know better what's going on. You can usually save a warped head by using 600grit wet-or-dry paper and something hard thats perfectly flat (mirror or thick pc of glass). Few yeras ago nearly every Sirio18 came with a prob that had to be fixed this way.

I bought a 1" thick piece of glass years ago to do this for the 2 stroke dirt bikes I raced. Tape the 600 to whatever you decide to use and put it in the sink where you can dribble water thru the area where you're going to rub the gasket side of the head and if necessary the mating surface of the block. Rub and twist at the same time until the pattern goes completely around the entire sealing surface. If you've been careful to keep it flat, this will usually save a head. It shouldn't take much cutting to get it flat if its salvageable. Use new shims of course. If you want new, consider that ACNCM giant head I linked 2 msgs ago, assuming bigger will mean more cooling that may help get your temps under control. You want 7075 alum since it has better thermal properties.

Get a motor mount that has some cooling capability too - the 7075 ones are stronger (2x) but may mean something else will break next time, but if this is just stripped thread, that may not be an issue. You can use the added cooling help. Nova RC makes a good one -

http://www.novarcproducts.com/tmmount.html

Why? Have you been re-using the head gasket or new ones everytime? With the 18t CB causing the extra rpm, I'd be using new every time I took the head off.

Only other tip - get a separate glo igniter. I quit using the glo plug side on the ez start controller a long time ago, they are not reliable and most have trouble with them sooner or later. There's some piece of circuitry that is a little fragile and it dies too frequently and causes all sorts of trouble before its figured out. You get better cranking speed without it, batts last longer and if you get an igniter with a meter (highly recommended) you'll always have a visual on the condition of the plug and the igniter batt. Yes, its one more batt to worry with, but its worth the trouble. If you ever more to ditch the ez start (tiger drive, rot-start, pull start etc), you'll need an igniter.

[mdewitt71]

What is the lightest (faster rolling) tire I can put on stock Tmaxx rims for parking lot racing/ bashing?

[rc addict]

does the tmaxx still own?? can it keep up with trucks like the revo, lst, savage 4.6, and monster gt se that have now come out after all the tmaxxes years of glory? just wanna know cause it seems like the tmaxxes chassis layout and style is becomming dated...

[jon_570]

my maxx 2.5 doesnt do a wheelie....even on factory settings..whats wrong???

[Mongoose420]

Wow, i had forgotten how badly people beat tmaxx's.

Had a maxx2.5 fall in my lap for 90 bucks complete and supposably running. I could tell it was whooped but for 90$ i could rebuild it for a back up maxx.

One way bearing in the ezstarter was in backwards and the truck side wire'n is junk. Every servo had at least 1 wire's insulation cut from being pinched. The reciever antenna was ripped off with a substite soldered back on with nothing to insulate it. All 8 shocks need a rebuild, 2 upper a-arms were broken. All the a arm pins were only held in with one thread(meaning they were backed out 4 threads) and every phillips screw on the truck is 3/4 of the way stripped out. Oh and the electronics didnt even work in the truck. Surprizingly the transmission seems okay and the diffs are in great shape.

I knew i was in for trouble when i seen the wheels were painted blue and red. The previos owner painted them still on the truck with overspray on the a-arms/shocks/tires still visable.

All this on a truck that had a new 2.5R head and a brand new rollcage. For a truck that wouldnt ever start without dissasemble'n the ezstart to turn the 1way bearing around and a hand held glow warmer.

After about 6 hours of cleaning and repairing ive got the radio equipment working(and all the wires properly insulation), the tires pulled from the wheels and the wheels stripped of paint, the 1 way bearing turned around, and the broken a-arms removed awaiting replacement parts.

Luckily the engine seems to have good compression. $35 in repair parts and about $40 in odds and ends the restoration of a once criminaly abused tmaxx will be complete.

Just thought i'd share this horror story, figured your maxx guys would get a kick out of it. Hopefully you guys take better care of yours than the previos owner of this ones did.

[jackhammer74]

Well on the bright side at least this maxx has found a loving home where it can get some TLC, just wondering, how old was the previous owner?

[Mongoose420]

dont know. Guessing that the wheels were painted on the truck at least one previos owner of the wheels was young.

Called my LHS today, they have everything i could possibly need include'n the piston/sleeve if i need it. Going to toss in a hitech HS-645MG steering servo(as i did my other maxx) along with new a-arms, rebuilt shocks and ezstart wire'n. Hopefully with a new plug she fires up good, if not a new piston/sleeve will be in order. I fixed up the rest of the electronics good enough for a 2nd truck if someone comes over but i'll prolly just buy another JR reciever for it and use my last memory slot for it.

Even after all that it will be cheaper than buy'n a new one lol.

[RCfroman]

Heehee. I'll be getting my T-maxx sometime before the end of next week! I can't wait to get it!

[Mongoose420]

there a fun little truck. pretty cheap to maintain.

The truck im working on now is just about as bad as ive seen one that wassnt hit by a car or something.

Total from the hobby shop this evening.

$30 1 gallon 20% traxxas top fuel(not a repair item)

$5 Ezstart 2 wire'n(repair item)

$65 trx2.5 piston/sleeve(not a repair item but good to have around)

$65 Hitech HS-645MG(42oz steering servo just wont do, but not a repair item)

$6 Heavy duity servo saver(not a repair item)

$7.50 Upper A-arm set.(repair item)

$4.50x2 Glow plugs(repair item ish)

$2.50x4 Shock rebuild kits(repair item)

$3.50 Bumper crossmember w/screws(repair item)

$25 Venom Micro Temp temp gague.

Take off the fuel, servo/micro temp and piston/sleeve it only took me about $30 to get it back running. New glowplug and ez start 2 wire's with factory carb settings it starts right up and purrs like a kitten. A fat rich pig kitten but those are they break in settings lol.

I don think ive chased all the gremlins out of this clapper yet. But im close. If there are any left its in the tranny. It might not engage properly ect.

[Mongoose420]

I hate when im right. No power transfer to the output shaft. So either the output gear pawls are wore out or the clutch bell is worn out. Thats the only explanation i can think of.

Nothing forward or reverse. This is the first time ive had a transmission issue out of the now 4 maxx's ive worked on. So ive not delved into the tranny before. It does seem odd that both the output gears would be equaly thrashed? Unless the dude put them on the wrong side of the clutch bell?

Anyone has any alternative theory's or a easier fix(as i'd like to get this one running) im definitly receptive to them. I'll tear it apart tonite if i dont go out.

Thanks

[Duster_360]

Did you check clutch shoes? Make sure inside of clutch bell isn't greasy (sometimes when brgs go, they coat the inside of the CB with grease) and the spring was in good shape.

I hope that trans has guts in it and you're not getting ready for a unwelcome surprise!

[Mongoose420]

Did you check clutch shoes? Make sure inside of clutch bell isn't greasy (sometimes when brgs go, they coat the inside of the CB with grease) and the spring was in good shape.

I hope that trans has guts in it and you're not getting ready for a unwelcome surprise!

The clutch bell on the output shaft of the engine is fine. I mean the CB inside the tranny that the output gears grab to turn the center drive axles. At least thats how it looks from the exploded view of the tranny.

The shaft the slipper and spur gear are on turns freely and the gears all felt good. The 2speed shaft turns with the spur gear naturaly and is free from any binding or otherwise abnormal feel.

It will be a few hours before i get it torn apart. The LHS in the next town north has the gears i think i'll need if it is indeed the case.

[Duster_360]

Never been in one except to install a FOC and was really unaware there was another CB inside. Now I see what you're talking about. Is it the nylon gears that go or the pawls just stop or quit grabbing? No real feeling on what would be most likely.

It doesn't look like you could assemble it with both gears on the same side and still get it back in the case. As you've discovered, a gremlin has been into this one, so there's only one way to find out.

Biggest trans prob I've seen is with more powerful engines, the engagement pins on 2nd gear come loose.

Hope its not the CB - that's the single most expensive piece in the trans, as lucj would have it. Both output gears don't amount to half the cost of the CB. Post back and let us know what it was, I'm curious and would like to know. Good luck with what you find.

[Mongoose420]

ah, yea the problem was the pawls were jammed. They flop out and catch on the pins pressed into the CB. Forward one way and reverse the other. They both show signs of wear so i'll get replacements to put in down the road

They are now free'd up, unfortunatly i dont know if it had been gone all along or if i lost it but there are 2 catch pins on either tip of the shifter fork that catch and move the CB between the forward and reverse output shafts. One of them is lost, so i fabbed up a ghetto replacement use'n 2 of the copper screw guide's that come with servo's. Cut down and CA'd together then CA'd to the shifter fork. I'll buy a replacement for that also.


*update*

Tranny works perfectly in one gear or another. Shifts into reverse just fine but doesnt want to go back in drive. These problems should be solved once and for all with new output gears and a new shift fork.

[RCfroman]

Ok, I finally got my T-maxx. I just finished the break-in yesterday and I'll be tuning it today.

[Spawntaneous]

I just got an OFNA/PICCO engine for my MAXX...i have already sent it back once because it wouldnt fire...they sent it back and it still wont start. Any suggestions or anyone in the Jax NC area that can come look at her??

Spawntaneous

[PeterbiltMaxx]

im sorry to have to say this,but the 2.5 or .25..however u look at it,is not as fast as a .25 shood be.if you wanna know wat i mean...my o.s. .15 could take tht stock .25 on anyday :)

[Duster_360]

2.5 is the Tmaxx displacement in cubic centimeters or 2.5cc. Equivalently, the engine displacement is also 0.15 cubic inches, the 2 numbers are identical - one is metric and one is the english system of units.

When the 2.5 came out, they wanted a way to distinguish the new engine from the gen 1 .15 Pro engine as it was called, so they called it the 2.5. Its all the same, just diff way to say it.

The 2.5 is not a .25 motor, thats a much bigger engine, its 4cc. Your os .15 is the exact same size as the trx 2.5 since they're both .15 cubic inches or both are 2.5ccs.

[Duster_360]

Spawntaneous - you've got to have 3 things to make an engine run, compression, fuel and a spark. Its new, so I'd guess you've got compression. Confirm that the glo plug is bright red. Leaves fuel - are you priming it? Try a putting a small amount of fuel down the carb and seeing if it'll fire. Are you using the ezstart or is a pull? If you're ezstarting, make sure your batt is fully charged.

Try using a hair blow dryer and heating the head to 140F or so and try to start it after priming it - you should be able to see the fuel come right up to the carb - don't over prime it. Last, try cracking the glo plug 1/8t - 1/4t to relieve some of the compression. Soon as it starts, let it run for a few sec and then remove the igniter and use a wrench to re-tighten the glo plug.

These engines have enough compression, you might not be spinning it over fast enough to get it started for where how the carb is set. Good luck!

[stonesavage]

anyone know were i can by kippster alloy diff cups for my maxx?

[Duster_360]

Stormer Racing Hobbies has them in stock -

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=KRP1200

I've been using these - see the itemat the bottom of this page -

http://www.fastlanemachine.com/PublicPortal/Products/TMAXX/tabid/55/Default.aspx

They are less expensive, have an $5 replacement cost if you manage ot break it or wear it out. My FR18 Tmaxx has not managed to do either. Plus you get new ring and pinion, way better deal. Regardless whose you buy, make sure to shim the diff when you put them together.

[PeterbiltMaxx]

I see.I see.I'd rather have the blue and gold painted motor though. :cool:

[stonesavage]

Stormer Racing Hobbies has them in stock -

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=KRP1200

I've been using these - see the itemat the bottom of this page -

http://www.fastlanemachine.com/PublicPortal/Products/TMAXX/tabid/55/Default.aspx

They are less expensive, have an $5 replacement cost if you manage ot break it or wear it out. My FR18 Tmaxx has not managed to do either. Plus you get new ring and pinion, way better deal. Regardless whose you buy, make sure to shim the diff when you put them together. THANKS DUDE THAT IS A GREAT DEAL MAXXIMIZER IS LIKE $50 for one!!!

[Duster_360]

Competition - isn't it wonderful!??! When I was putting mine together, a pair of Maxximizers was going to cost $110 and I still needed at least the modded ring gears too. Somebody steered me toward FLM and it was a total no-brainer. I've been pleased with mine, no probs, about 1/2gal thru my Fantom 18.

I'm just re-paying the favor someone did for me, you're welcome!!

[RCfroman]

My truck keeps cutting out when I'm driving. I'll be driving, shift gears, slow down, and it will stop running. Anyone know what's wrong?

[Duster_360]

Need more info - how old is the truck, have you been driving long when this starts, is it hard to get it restarted, is fuel low or does it do this even on full tank? How are you hitting the brakes or just easing up on the throttle? Do you have a fuel filter? Have you done anything with the linkage lately?

Prob could be related to any of the above...

[RCfroman]

I've had this truck for about 3-4 weeks now. It does this when it has a full tank, and keeps doing this until it runs out of fuel. When it starts doing this I usually wait a couple minutes then start it up and start driving again, and I keep doing this until I get close to running out of fuel. Sometimes it gets hard to start. When I brake I'm not slamming on the brakes, but slowly braking. I'm not sure if I have a fuel filter... I'm fairly new to nitro. What d you mean by linkage?

[Duster_360]

I guess you've gone thru breakin and then tuned it for performance like the DVD instructed or are you still running it the way it came out of the box?

You don't have a fuel filter - doesn't come with one. Linkage is the metal rods from the servo to the carb and brake. Thats prob not the prob with it being relatively new. Need to know what you've done about tuning it - adjusting the HSN and LSN needles and idle.

[RCfroman]

Yeah, I've tuned it the way it told me to.

[RCfroman]

and yeah I did break in

[Duster_360]

You're either too lean and its stalling because there's too little gas going thru the engine when you back off the throttle or the idle is not set right and its letting the carb close completely when you hit the brakes. Have you had the air cleaner off and know that there is a small gap open in the carb? Look at this (engine off) gap when you operate throttle and then brake - it should not close when you hit the brakes.

I'm going to guess you're not too rich since you've tuned it. Any idea on temps? If you're a little lean, should be on the upper end of the temp range.

[RCfroman]

My temperature, after I do a couple of high speed runs, is hanging around 245-275. Is that a good temp for me to be running? Or should it be a little cooler?

[RCfroman]

Let me check on my carb and see if it's closing completely, and if it is I'll fix it and tell you if it's still cutting out.

[Duster_360]

If its 100F outside thats a good temp. You prob need to be a little cooler, Traxxas recommends the 2.5 run no hotter than 270F. How warm is it where you're running? The cooler the outside temp where you're running (when you got the 270F), the leaner you are. if it was only 70F when you saw the 270, you're way lean.

I assume you've got a hole cut in the windshield and rear windshield in line with the engine head to allow enough cooling air to flow across the head. If you don't have any cooling holes cut yet, do that 1st - that will lower your temp and you may be ok.

Another thing you can do is lower the body on the truck to get more of the cooling head exposed - requires trimming at the front and back, but it helps. The shell I run with (Atomik) has no front or back windshield at all.

[Maxxcrazy]

Heres my recently aqquired T Maxx. It was stock with the exception of the engine and pipe when I bought it for $60.

http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0281.jpg
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0282.jpg

The list of mods:
Epic .18
Traxxas aluminum pipe
Megatech header
Futuba 9305 steering servo
Traxxas throttle servo mounts
Integy aluminum rear bulks with braces
RPM front bumper
RC Trix and Trinity springs
Traxxas FOC
Traxxas carbon brake rotor
RRP brake pads
RRP slipper with steel spur
Pro-line Maxx Mulcher tires
HPI Q6 wheels

[RCfroman]

So you bought the truck for $60?

[RCfroman]

If its 100F outside thats a good temp. You prob need to be a little cooler, Traxxas recommends the 2.5 run no hotter than 270F. How warm is it where you're running? The cooler the outside temp where you're running (when you got the 270F), the leaner you are. if it was only 70F when you saw the 270, you're way lean.

I assume you've got a hole cut in the windshield and rear windshield in line with the engine head to allow enough cooling air to flow across the head. If you don't have any cooling holes cut yet, do that 1st - that will lower your temp and you may be ok.

Another thing you can do is lower the body on the truck to get more of the cooling head exposed - requires trimming at the front and back, but it helps. The shell I run with (Atomik) has no front or back windshield at all.
I got these temps when it was about 85-90F outside. Well, here in Idaho it gets really hot on some days, about 95-102F, and pretty cool on others, about 75-80F, so the temperature is always changing out here. I usually wait to run when it's about 80-90F, but sometimes I run earlier in the day when it's hotter outside.
I've got half my windshield cut out on my body, and a hole in the back that's about 1 3/16" wide and tall, I'll probably have to make that one bigger.I'll try lowering the body and see if that helps.

[pro60modman]

heres a animation of my t-maxx going off my 3 foot ramp i built
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8758/tmaxxanimation6ag.gif

[RCfroman]

I don't understand it. My Maxx is still cutting out. :confused: I can't figure it out.

[pro60modman]

what kind of pipe and engine combo do you have
replace your lines if there ancient
use jet spary carb cleaner to blow all the crap out of your tank and let it dry for a half hour

[RCfroman]

what kind of pipe and engine combo do you have
replace your lines if there ancient
use jet spary carb cleaner to blow all the crap out of your tank and let it dry for a half hour
I've only had my maxx for 3-4 weeks, I still have the stock engine and pipe.

[Duster_360]

Have you checked and made sure the slide is not closing all the way when the brakes are applied? The idle screw should not let the slide close completely. I still think its stalling when it gets hot and boils the fuel unless the brakes are completely closing the slide in the carb.

The sweet spot on this carb is small and it takes some time and patience to find it. I turn needles only 1 or 2 hrs (clockface) at a time.You've got to let it get hot, then adjust and then run it to see what diff your change made. The experience is in judging which side your adjustment put you on - did it make you leaner or richer? You'll know which way to go from there.

If you've done as much with the HSN as you can and its still stalling, it sounds like your LSN may be lean too. Try richening it about 2hrs worth. LSN controls mix from idle to about 1/2 throttle, HSN above that.

If all else fails, you can put both needles back to factory settings - 4T out on HSN and flush with the inner barrel on the LSN and re-tune.

[pro60modman]

I've only had my maxx for 3-4 weeks, I still have the stock engine and pipe.
well its just too lean and if it cuts out after 5 minutes its too hot which is also too lean but just invest in a ACNCM head for 25 bux off ebay like i did and be able to run 4 full tanks back to back :) adn still put your fingers on the head of the engine

[Duster_360]

Yeah, but if you're still too lean, there's not enough oil going into the engine and you're not going to get much life out of your piston/sleeve. The rich/lean sets how much fuel (and oil) goes through the engine and even if the temps are cool enough with the new head, if its lean you're wearing the P/S out cause you don't have enough oil to keep everything properly lubricated. This is partly why running lean makes engines run hot - there's not enough oil to provide the cooling and lubrication that the proper amount of oil is designed to provide. In these 2 strokes, lean/rich not only sets the air fuel ratio, but also sets how much oil is being given to the engine since the oil is mixed with the nitro.

In other words, don't buy a cooling head just to solve a tuning prob! Get it tuned right and if you want lower temps buy the cooling head.

[RCfroman]

My truck isn't too hot at all. My slide isn't closing all the way. I'll change my low speed because that's the only thing I haven't tried richening yet, and if it still stalls, I'll tune it all over again.

[pro60modman]

yea i rigged my throttle servo next to the gas tank so i didnt have the linkage post thing so the carb would close all the way

set the engine 3 1/2 turns out on high

[R_C_hoodlum]

This is just a little bit off subject but, can anyone tell me about how long it takes to break in the engine on the T-MAXX?

[RCfroman]

bout 1 1/2 to 2 hours

[Duster_360]

If you've not adjusted the LSN thru all this, I bet thats your prob. The LSN has a lot more impact on temps than usually thought. Hope that cures the stalling.

[pro60modman]

This is just a little bit off subject but, can anyone tell me about how long it takes to break in the engine on the T-MAXX?

5 tanks are recommended and 3 tanks at the least

your looking at about a hour

[Duster_360]

Don't go short changing the time spent making sure you're doing it right. Rushing breakin is a good way to wind up disappointed when you've got tuning probs and then shortened engine life.

I'd plan to do it over 2 days so you have the time to review the DVD after you've got a few tanks done. It makes a lot more sense to you after you've actually gotten started. Or start early so you've got the entire day and take a break over lunch to replay the DVD.

[RCfroman]

Yeah, every time I finished a tank, I would watch the break in and tuning part of the dvd.

[R_C_hoodlum]

Thanks everyone for your help about break-in. That helps me out a ton! The way it was sounding I thought I'd need a whole day. Thanks.

[NitroTXT1]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5997779443&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

just won it on ebay...and am planning on dropping an os .18tm that supposedly has minimal use in it....what are some other key first mods i can do?

[Duster_360]

This is the orig version of the Tmaxx. One of the important things they did with the 2.5 was make it wider so it was more stable, less prone to rolling over. If you're going to step up the power, I'd convert to the Wide-Maxx suspension like is on the 2.5. Trx made a conversion kit - got everything you need -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAK6&P=7

You might want to go RPM for a arms instead of stock ones above, but you'll still need new turnbuckles.

OS 18TM needs a better clutch, or you'll be feeding it new 2.5 clutches. GA makes a 3 shoe alum clutch thats a good upgrade.

http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/3_Shoe_Clutch_Assembly.cfm

You should be ok for while with the stock drivetrain. Sooner or later, you'll start twisting shafts and will need some CVDs. I'd buy those when they're needed.

[NitroTXT1]

yeah cvd's are next right now just getting ready for more power...but i may stick with the stock engine until i get a feel for the truck and then mod for it...DO i need the 2.5 chassis or will the existing one work? cause if not then i'll get a hop -up one or something

[NitroTXT1]

http://www.holeshoteng.com/cfchassis.htm i want to run a chassis like that...cause i wanna make it a lightweight racer/basher t-maxx...but I don't bash hard so no need for all aluminum parts

[Duster_360]

Chassis is the same, just take the upper and lower A arms off F&R and switch out with the new longer arms, reset your geometry and you're good to go. It will give you a chance to check wheel brgs, pillow balls (polish them if you have a dremel-helps for smooth suspension action) and axles to make sure everythings good.

This is the chassis I'm working with - it'll have a new OS TM18 and weigh a little less than 7lbs. Buying parts right now, have chassis, braces, F&R Dace bulks, engine, clutch, new slipper and some of the gears for a HD trans.

http://www.dacemfg.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=115051&InfoID=2293

Another thing you'll need - some alum chassis braces - either stock chassis is prone to flex - I could flex my 2.5 chassis with the new steering servo I put in (went from 80 inoz to 165inoz of torque), you could see the engine head move as you turned the wheels, makes it easy to strip spurs. Set of metal chassis braces an or a metal trans plate will go a long way toward fixing much of the chassis flex problem. I used both - no more chassis flex from steering servo torque (at least).

[NitroTXT1]

yeah eventually i wanna move up 2 a nice chassis but i am thinking of running that cf chassis for right now since it's only $50 bucks....and i am going to try and purchase both the .18 and the trx2.5 lol .....as far as servos not gonna do it yet...like i said may stay stock until i get more of the stuff i want...provided the engine runs correctly

[Duster_360]

Good luck with it, hope it works out the way you want.

Look on Ebay for the trx lightweight chassis that Slayden used as his chassis for his Race-Maxx, its 7075 alum vs the stock 6061, its twice as strong and stiff, lighter and from the comments I've read on trx forums they're going for around $25. I gave about $50 for a new one from Tower. I wouldn't buy those powerd coated ones, they're not much better, if any than stock.

Now that I think about it, there are new 2.5s being parted over there all the time and some real bargains for new parts. Buy a bunch from one guy who offers reduced S&H for the 2nd and up purchases so you don't get eaten alive with the S&H charges.

[NitroTXT1]

cool do u know how light that chassis is cause the specs on the carbon one are

This is for one brand new Carbon Fiber Chassis for the Traxxas T-MAXX monster truck. The stock chassis weighs 6.6 oz. This chassis weighs 4.3 oz and has the trick Carbon Fiber weave showing. That means it will remove 2.3 oz from your truck. Carbon Fiber by nature is very stiff, so in will be almost impossible to break. It has been CNC machined from 1/8" thick CF to ensure a perfect fit and uses all the stock locations for the chassis components. I can also supply this chassis without stock mounting locations (blank) for the components for those of you that like to mount there own fuel tank, receiver box, etc. Please e-mail if you are interested in one of the blank chassis. They would be the same price

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

hey dudes, im new to the world of t-maxx's, infact im new to most of all this. I was gonna buy the product "Integy Super Duty MSR5 Shock Set Blue T-Maxx" off towerhobbies but I didnt know what the "Silver Piggyback Oil Reservoir" was. If you wanna have a look and then tell me, you can go to http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKVH4&P=7 . Thanks for your help.


Sonic

[Duster_360]

Can't find a weight - its here in this accessory list, 15 or 16 down (right below pillow ball caps), but they say it is lighter, so just don't know how much. I never weighed it before I started building - I have 2 Tmaxxs and the one with the FR18 engine uses this chassis. This chassis will let you use the 75cc rustler tank (have to drill 4 holes) to help stop the 1/2 tank lean prob with the stock tank and it lowers CG as well. The only comment I've seen about the CF chassis is you have to keep the edges sealed with CA or else probs start.

http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/tmaxx/trx_tmaxx_access.htm

The easiest, biggest weigth savings at one pop is to replace stock tires and wheels with something lighter - big reductions possible. Stock wheel & tire weighs 310gr. I run SportMax wheels with Sporttraxx tires that weighs 232, saving 78gram/wheel X4 = 312grams or 10.8ounces which is over 0.6lb. Added benefit is better snap or punch off teh line due to reduction in rotating or sprung mass. There are lighter combos available - Bow ties on velo rims are only 210gr saving almost 14 oz on the truck. Use firm liners for best results.

SUPERSONIC_ST - those are nice looking, but non-functional reservoirs. I see a lot of complaints about those shock shafts being easy to bend. The Powerstrokes have gotten (ebay) down to the $75 range and are way better shocks unless you're just after the bling. If thats what you're looking for those are great bling bling.

[NitroTXT1]

yeah i was going to do that anyway

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

im after shocks that i can use for proper off road, dont care about cost as long as it isnt totally stupid. Any other suggestions?

[Newdude]

Proline.. Hey my engine is being cranky. Whenever I try to start it up it doesn't want to start. I do ez start and if i pull the throttle a bit it will start but once I immediately let off it stops. It gets very hot very fast. And this is in Texas' hot weather. I'm not sure what to do any help

[NitroTXT1]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5998344389&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

just won a trx2.5 complete setup I'll have to get the proper exhaust for it though.....as for you newdude adjust the settings maybe it's a little too lean if it heats up quickly....does it have tons of smoke when you push the gas?....it could also not stay on cause the glow plug is bad

[Duster_360]

SUPERSONIC_ST -These are good shocks -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP65&P=ML

These are even better -

http://cgi.ebay.com/T-Maxx-Powerstroke-Performance-Shocks-by-Pro-Line_W0QQitemZ5999084194QQcategoryZ44028QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I've seen them for about $75-80 here on Ebay with buy it now pricing. They are about the best you can get, tuneable race, bash whatever and they look good too.

Newdude - soiunds like your idle is not set correctly. If it gets hot qucikly, your lasn may be too lean. When engine is off and you have air cleaner off check gap in carb - it should be about 1mm. Here's a reference tuning guide on the 2.5 give it a read, should help -

http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/trx_sl_tuning25.htm

[randomt-maxxguy]

Hey fellas! I need a little wisdom here because I'm stumped. Last January I bought myself an OS Max .18 CV-RX engine to drop in my T-maxx. Its been very very good to me up until a couple days ago when my glow plug failed on me. The plug had a few gallons on it, so I figured no big deal, just needs a new plug. I bought an OS #8 plug and threw it in, but for the first minute or two it would not run w/o the glow driver attached to the plug. Then all of a sudden it worked fine, and I ran 1 tank of fuel through it. The next time I took it out, I collided with a friend of mine lightly, but it tipped my truck over and the engine revved moderately to high until I could run over and right it, but it died there and wouldn't start. The glow plug was shot already. Now I tried another generic plug, and that one won't run w/o the glow driver on either. Most of the time it also only runs for a short while and dies if I try to throttle up. I tried setting it back to initial settings, and before that I tried both richening and leaning, nothing seems to help much, but richening did some. I know my engine was generally run on the rich side. Never raced, just used for bashing. It probably has around 4 gallons thru it right now. I fancy myself to be fairly good at tuning engines by now, I'm no newb anymore, but I am stumped. If you've had a similar problem or have an idea, please let me know. By the way, still has good compression. I took good care of this engine.

[NitroTXT1]

is $111 shipped for a full trx 2.5 setup brand spankin new good?

[Duster_360]

When I put my scratch built Tmaxx together it had a new FR18 in it. It would only run with the igniter too. I tried everything, lean a full turn (in steps) richer a full turn, back to factory settings, same with lsn, nothing would make it run for more than a few seconds without a glo igniter. I burnt up one of those fooling around with it this way but managed to get 5 or 6 tanks thru and get some breakin. I tried new plugs - few heat ranges either way, again with no luck. Finally, I pulled the motor and as soon as I popped the backplate off, I realized I had a massive air leak - the paper gasket was torn on one side and wadded on the other. After cleaning it all up and sealing it with sensor safe silicone sealant, it cranks and runs normally.

I'd ckeck yours over carefully looking for an air leak - something moved or cracked and is leaking - that would be my guess.

I think you made a good deal if thats the engine you want. The only thing better is $100 for an 0S 18 CV-R and you've got to work on it to make it fit and it needs a side exhaust to boot. Think you did okay.

[NitroTXT1]

well i bought it cause it comes with engine mount,ez start(which i will remove),clutch bell and full exhaust oh yeah also has motor mounts

[SUPERSONIC_ST]

Wanna put in 2.5R traxxas engine. Good idea or waste of money? Other options?

Sonic

[Duster_360]

How much do you want to spend? The Sirio 18 Maxx is apparently still available at ~$150 (dropin), if you don't mind having to get engine parts from Japan, Fantom 18 (dropin) about the same price, OS 18TM at $220 (dropin) or the CV-R for $100 but needs crank cut, diff header and exhaust to run and linkage work.

Or you can get the Picco26 Maxx which is a dropin, but you're going to have to upgrade to CVDs and alum diff cups. The 18s will run stock for a while until you start getting hard on it, then they will need some help - usually diff cups.

If you're going to stay with 15 engine size, 2.5R is not a bad choice. I'd scout ebay for a decent bargain on a new one somebody is parting out. Think you should be able to beat the $150 retail price.

[NitroTXT1]

so i am waiting for it to come in...i can't wait...cause this car will be so dope...when i am done...next is the pro-line and or 2.5 widemaxx upgrade...and a four shock setup...next is carbon extended chassis..my object is to shave a good amount of weight...and aluminum braces

[NitroTXT1]

if i had more money after purchasing so much on ebay....I would have went after an o.s. tm....and some other upgrades....but i just decied to go trx 2.5 cause it cost me 111 for the whole shabang!

[mdewitt71]

I have the (old) .15 Pro version Maxx, yea I know this forum says 2.5 but bare with me......
I dropped a .18 OS in it and took out the EZ start stuff (save wieght). Now I want to make it forward only, what all do I need to do besides get rid of the reverse servo and linkage??

[Duster_360]

There is some additional stuff in the trans that you need to remove and replace with the forward only conversion (FOC) to take maximum advantage of dropping reverse. This gear train is needed for reverse only, but leaving it in, you will be wasting power to spin it for nothing. The FOC replaces that with a shaft so you can still have a 2 speed, but gets rid of all the hardware assoicated with reverse.

Benefit - once you made the FOC, it will accelerate faster since you're no longer turning that added mass that was needed for reverse. Good thing is that its a relatively cheap modd -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNA8&P=7

[R_C_hoodlum]

Does anybody here have a MAXX rock crawler or know what to to build one :confused: I watched the REVO rocks project video on the TRAXXAS websitem (It's awsome :cool: .).

I got a huge pile of rocks and boulders in my front yard and and I usually only drive my MAXX around the house and that pile of rocks is just begging to be used for something. I really want to build a rock crawler and I need to know general setup with the suspension, trans and all that good stuff.

I also want to know what type of steering servo to put in and who makes a good one. And anything else that you guys could think would help make the MAXX into a crawler.

[NitroTXT1]

if you wanna make a maxx crawler you'd have to gear down and get some type of torquey engine i am not sure which is the best, also setup for maxx height and as for servos depends on what you wanna pay...you can get some high torque ones from hi tec for around 60-70 ish and they'll do the job...just depends on what you want

[mdewitt71]

There is some additional stuff in the trans that you need to remove and replace with the forward only conversion (FOC) to take maximum advantage of dropping reverse. This gear train is needed for reverse only, but leaving it in, you will be wasting power to spin it for nothing. The FOC replaces that with a shaft so you can still have a 2 speed, but gets rid of all the hardware assoicated with reverse.

Benefit - once you made the FOC, it will accelerate faster since you're no longer turning that added mass that was needed for reverse. Good thing is that its a relatively cheap modd -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNA8&P=7

Duster_360,
Thanks for the info and the link, I am gonna get it......By chance is there any special instructions or things to look for when doing the mod?

[NitroTXT1]

just won one on ebay for 11 shipped i guess i'll put it in soon as i get the truck

[Duster_360]

No, Trx FOC comes with an instruction sheet - very clear, easy and simple to follow. Took me all of maybe 5 min to do it.

The real PIA is taking trans out and putting it back in, lol. Here's some how-to info in the meantime -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/forward-conversion/tm-forward-conversion.asp

[NitroTXT1]

cool mine is from traxxas....$14 bucks shipped should be too bad

[Maxxcrazy]

Heres my updated T. Since the last post, I added an OS .18TM.
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0304.jpg
http://www2.mini-zracer.com/albums/Maxxcrazy/DSCF0305.jpg

[Duster_360]

Maxx - nice looking truck!! Are those Ofna pins? Everybody ought to look at what you've done for cooling too.

How do you like your TM18 so far? Is it causing any drivetrain probs? Or did you upgrade anything before you swapped??

[Maxxcrazy]

Thanks. The tires are Pro-line Mulchers

The TM18 is very powerfull. So far, after about 10 non break in tanks, I've had a stripped rear diff, two blown bearings, twisted rear center driveshaft (even the yokes are twisted!) and a mangled bed.

I did upgrade to Tsais CVD's before I put the TM in, so far they've been great.

[stonesavage]

Thanks. The tires are Pro-line Mulchers

The TM18 is very powerfull. So far, after about 10 non break in tanks, I've had a stripped rear diff, two blown bearings, twisted rear center driveshaft (even the yokes are twisted!) and a mangled bed.

I did upgrade to Tsais CVD's before I put the TM in, so far they've been great.
WHAT part stripped the ring n pinion or the spiders just curious i have a t with a hyper 21 and have had no diff problems yet I did shim the ring n pinion so it was tight

[Duster_360]

Sounds like it def puts more thru the drive train than 2.5! I put in a FR18 which has almost as much as power as the 18CV-R. I upgraded all around to CVDs using RD Logics - fine so far.

If you're striping ring or pinion, it's prob due to the weak stock diff case twisting under torque letting gears come out of mesh and grind each other up. I went to alum diff cup to get the bigger screws that hold the ring gear and put that in the cheapest alum diff case and collar I could find. Shimmed them so they're tight (very smooth now) and have not had any probs at all. My TM is going into a Dace Predator chassis, but I'm depending on my current drivetrain to keep it all together.

If you need cups, look at fastlanemachine, That's the ones I used.

Which brgs are giving it up??

[Maxxcrazy]

I was thinking about a predator chassis, but I might get a FLM web chassis instead.

It was the ring gear which was stripped. A few teeth were broken off, the rest were worn, but the pinion was fine. One of the bearings I blew was the one in the diff, that must have cause the mesh to go out of wack. The other bearing was a wheel bearing

The rear center driveshaft finally gave up, but I was able to build one in 5 minutes using the shafts that the CVD's replaced.

[Duster_360]

If you're going to take that step, go do a little browsing over on the UE forums. There are some guys who are not happy with the FLM chassis, not sure exactly why, but think they run into problems with other things they need to do or want to do later (like UE 6 or 8 gear diffs). I went with a Predator myself, basically cause I caught a new one being sold for cheap - I was at the right place at the right time for a change. Still collecting parts.

Guess a TM will find every weak spot in the drive train, lol!

[jackhammer74]

It's been a while since I posted, and there's a reason for it, my maxx has me so frustrated that I'm close to calling it quits. I first posted a couple of months ago
after obtaining a used tmaxx in a trade, everything seemed OK with it, it came with a few hopups and lots of spares, honestly I love it. Its achilles heel though is its engine, from what I can tell it still has enough compression (it still makes that "pop" just after TDC when spinning the flywheel). So what's the problem?
It won't stay running reliably, first it wasn't getting enough fuel,there's was all this bubbles in the fuel, it wasn't the tank, it wasn't the fuel line or fuel filter, after much tinkering I found that the o ring on the exhaust port was missing, in leiu of getting a new o ring, I used Hi temp RTV on that, also on the back plate, and even the carb. that seemed to alibiate the problem for a little while at least, a couple of weeks ago I kinda melted the spur gear, so I was out of commission for a while, yesterday after replacing the spur and slipper pegs and properly setting the slipper, I go to fire it up again, and after a while it finally fires up but it only stays running for a bit if the glow igniter is left on the glow plug.
I'm also seeing bubbles in the fuel line again which makes the throttle very erratic. I guess the running only when the glow igniter is in means that the plug is fouled, but the damned thing is new and it sat unused for 2 weeks I even pulled it off the engine and put it away.
Please somebody offer some encouraging words, What the HELL is wrong with this thing!!? Is it possessed? I don't want to bring it into my LHS for two reasons financial and I actually want to figure out what is wrong with it, I'm kinda obsessed at this point, I've spent countless hours working on it since May, and have gotten maybe a half an hour of trouble free running from it. Please help guys.
The plug thing I guess I can check for sure since I got another plug still in the package, but the fuel thing, I'm clueless about.

[RThomas]

I apologize if this has already been asked; I have been unable to find it in a search.

I recently had a reverse gear and EZ-Start failure at the same time. I installed the forward only gear set and rebuilt the EZ-Start and now the T-Maxx starts and runs backwards.

The engine as viewed from the front rotates CC, The spur gear as viewed from the back rotates CC of course. The output shaft rotates the same direction as the spur gear. The spur gear free-wheels in CC rotation as viewed from the back. All this causes the wheels to rotate backwards driving the T-maxx in reverse.

What did I screw up? The EZ-start or transmission? Is the engine actually starting backwards or did the forward only gear set cause this/

Thanks….. Rich

[kountryboy]

Same thing happened to me take your differtinal out and flip it over and you will be going forward.

[RThomas]

Same thing happened to me take your differtinal out and flip it over and you will be going forward.

Thanks for the reply, which diff? Rear , Front or both. It seems if I just do the rear, they will be fighting each other.

Rich

[kountryboy]

Do them both i took my front one out and made the rear a limited slip when i still had my 2 speed trans so it didnt matter how i put my rear diff in but when i put my forward only trasmission in the diff was backwards so i switched it around and its all good now i love the two wheel drive.

[RCfroman]

Hey, I finally got my T-maxx running good again and it doesn't cut out anymore! I just got a razorback quad body for it and it looks awesome!!! Anyways, now that I've got it tuned right, it's a blast! :D
Collin

[Duster_360]

I apologize if this has already been asked; I have been unable to find it in a search.

I recently had a reverse gear and EZ-Start failure at the same time. I installed the forward only gear set and rebuilt the EZ-Start and now the T-Maxx starts and runs backwards.

The engine as viewed from the front rotates CC, The spur gear as viewed from the back rotates CC of course. The output shaft rotates the same direction as the spur gear. The spur gear free-wheels in CC rotation as viewed from the back. All this causes the wheels to rotate backwards driving the T-maxx in reverse.

What did I screw up? The EZ-start or transmission? Is the engine actually starting backwards or did the forward only gear set cause this/

Thanks….. Rich

Looking at the clutch bell (from the front), the engine rotates counterclockwise (CCW). The way you can figure this out is how the one way bearing works. The OWB grabs spinning clockwise looking at it from that end. SO CW from the back side of the engine is CCW viewed from the front. You've wired your ezstart backwards and are starting the motor backwards - 2 strokes will do that. Flip the wiring and try it that way.

The engine won't make power running backwards cause all the port timing is now different and its def not optimum.

I've installed a FOC also and I don't see how you could reverse it there - you'd have to turn both shafts around in teh trans and there's no room.

[RThomas]

Looking at the clutch bell (from the front), the engine rotates counterclockwise (CCW). The way you can figure this out is how the one way bearing works. The OWB grabs spinning clockwise looking at it from that end. SO CW from the back side of the engine is CCW viewed from the front. You've wired your ezstart backwards and are starting the motor backwards - 2 strokes will do that. Flip the wiring and try it that way.

The engine won't make power running backwards cause all the port timing is now different and its def not optimum.

I've installed a FOC also and I don't see how you could reverse it there - you'd have to turn both shafts around in teh trans and there's no room.

Duster

Thanks for at least verifying the engine rotation.... The enging is running correctly and The Ez-Start is starting it in CC rotation. I have been running RC (You name it) since the early 80's, so when the engine started I knew it was running way too well to be runnimng backwards. In fact I actually had fun with it for a while and reversed the steering servo to see how well I could go backwards. I thought maybe I missed a step in the Traxxas distructions :-).

I even took everything back apart again and again. You can't put the tranny together wrong and get it to work... You can't get the Ez-Start together wrong without spare parts. It was just running forward before putting in the gear set.

Can someone tell me if their transmission spur gear and output shaft both rotate the same direction when turned. The only fix I see right now is to flip the diffs.

Rich

[Duster_360]

Rich - the spur and trans output shafts rotate in the same direction. Going forward, mine rotate CCW looking at the truck from the rear.

Did you have the diffs out? Looking at the Tmaxx from the rear, the screws on the front diff are on the left and the screws on the read diff are to the right (exhaust side).

Hope you get it straightened out.

[dolphinchamp32]

Is The T-maxx 2.5 2 Speed Or One Speed And What Size Engine Does It Have(.15,.18,.21)

[Duster_360]

Tmaxx is a 2 speed and the stock engine is a .15 cubic inches or 2.5 cubic centimeters (ccs).

Its the same for either the original Tmaxx with the Pro .15 motor or the 2.5(cc) Tmaxx. The motors are diff, same size, but the 2.5 is a race .15. The major diff between the orig and the 2.5 is the suspension. The 2.5 is much wider (WideMaxx suspension).

[dolphinchamp32]

how in the he11 does it go 40 mph i just dont get it. wouldent the savage25 smoke the t-maxx?

[Duster_360]

Race engine - 1.33hp with useable rpm range up 40K rpm. Its just gearing after that. Also, there's the weight involved - my stock Tmaxx weighs 9lb 6oz and my Sav weighs just a touch over 11lbs (thats 17% more weight, almost 1/5th more).

Other way around - I think they will be even until the Tmaxx shifts and starts to wind out - its gone then.

This is for stock gearing - Sav will pull higher gearing, but will lose some acceleration. The Sav is a tank, lol! 4.6SS does better cause its 28 engine is better suited to lugging that higher weight, but I haven't seen a 4.6 run against a Tmaxx - I have both, but both run off the same radio, so I can't run them against one another. Both 4.6 and Tmaxxes top speeds (advertised) are silimar though - both low mid- 40s.

[dolphinchamp32]

Okay I Get It Now But Why Does My T-maxx With The O.s. .18cvr Feel Like It Goes Slower Than The T-maxxes On The Videos

[Duster_360]

Something's not right somewhere - that engine, OS 18CV-R won RCCA's Dec '04 18 engine shootout - there were 3 engines close at the top - the CV-R, Sirio 18 and a Fantom 18. The CV-R was the clear winner.

Have you made sure its tuned right, for performance and not running rich? Have you checked the driveline to make sure nothing is binding anywhere, wheel brgs or trans bearings? If your Tmaxx has got some serious time on it, have you cleaned and regreased your bearings? Is the brake properly adj? How about the slipper and the clutch?

[RCfroman]

I was jumping my Maxx in front of my house and I got a little too much air. I went through the center of my mom's tree and ripped off a big branch. :p Now there's a big gap in the middle of my mom's tree.

[RCIntel]

I just swapped engines to the TRX 2.5R in my T-Maxx. Since I put an aftermarket air filter on it, its been reaching tempatures of 300+degrees. I would say the highest was 350 degrees so i just shut it down. What will this temp. do to my engine and is their anything i can do to lower that Temp.

-RCINTEL

[RCfroman]

Do you have cooling passages cut out in the body? You could lower your body posts to get more air to the cooling head. It might be running too lean. If these things don't help much, you could get a bigger cooling head.

[rcster3000]

hey I was wonderin if any of yall might could know what is wrong with my t-maxx

The steering is messed up I even bought a new servo and its still messed up and i know its not the receiver because every thing else works perfectly and i've even tried switching receiver slots.

Any info would be much appreciated......Thx rcster

[kountryboy]

hey I was wonderin if any of yall might could know what is wrong with my t-maxx

The steering is messed up I even bought a new servo and its still messed up and i know its not the receiver because every thing else works perfectly and i've even tried switching receiver slots.

Any info would be much appreciated......Thx rcster
What is messing up need more details what is it doing/not doing a lot of stuff can go wrong on steering.

[Duster_360]

I just swapped engines to the TRX 2.5R in my T-Maxx. Since I put an aftermarket air filter on it, its been reaching tempatures of 300+degrees. I would say the highest was 350 degrees so i just shut it down. What will this temp. do to my engine and is their anything i can do to lower that Temp.

-RCINTEL

Your new air cleaner - if its flowing more air, it's made the engine lean (if you flow more air without adding more gas, it goes lean). When you put on a high performance air cleaner (or a race pipe), you typically need to richen HSN anywhere from 1/4 to a full turn. Try richening the HSN 1/2t and see if temps come down. If this engine is new, it will run a little hotter than normal until you've got it broken in and have some time on it - friction is high when its new. DId you do a breakin?

Running at high temps will shorten the life of your piston/sleeve and the engine bearings, in short, you're killing your motor running it that hot. TRX advises max temp is like 270F

[rcster3000]

What is messing up need more details what is it doing/not doing a lot of stuff can go wrong on steering.

the main prob is it takes a long time to steer and i keep hearing this funny clicking noise when I steer it

[kountryboy]

Check all of the screws that hold everything together be sure they are all tight and none are missing and make sure your servo saver isint busted also.

[rcster3000]

Check all of the screws that hold everything together be sure they are all tight and none are missing and make sure your servo saver isint busted also.

ok i did that but it still wont turn i got a new servo/servo saver from tower but it still wont work

[kountryboy]

The only other thing i can think of is your pivot ball cups on the spindles look.Through the holes on the front rims and you will see two big allen screw heads one is at the top of the spindle and one is at the bottom.Loosen both of them just a little on both sides left and right and see if that helps any.

[edawg]

i am selling mine. If anybody is interested pm me.

[RCIntel]

Your new air cleaner - if its flowing more air, it's made the engine lean (if you flow more air without adding more gas, it goes lean). When you put on a high performance air cleaner (or a race pipe), you typically need to richen HSN anywhere from 1/4 to a full turn. Try richening the HSN 1/2t and see if temps come down. If this engine is new, it will run a little hotter than normal until you've got it broken in and have some time on it - friction is high when its new. DId you do a breakin?

Running at high temps will shorten the life of your piston/sleeve and the engine bearings, in short, you're killing your motor running it that hot. TRX advises max temp is like 270F

When i first got my engine i ran 5 tanks through it to break it in and then an additional 5 tanks to tune and get used to it. After those 10 tanks i swapped the original air filter out for an after market one and it seemed to be running fine, after tuning for some 4 or so tanks. Then about a month ago it started to heat up really badly, I do not think it is the tuning because i have had it rich to the point where their is too much gas getting to the engine. Now i have it at about 5 and 1/2 turns. Could this be caused by an air leak, where do air leaks usually occur?

[Duster_360]

You've not mentioned the LSN - have you adj it at all? Most don't realize how much the LSN impacts temps. You can run really rich on the HSN and be really lean on the LSN and make it run too hot. LSN controls mix from idle to a little more than 1/2 throttle- most spend a lot of time running in that range. The change at a month ago - don't know. Do you have any compression?

If the LSN is right, could be an air leak. On the 2.5, 2 most common places are the carb neck/pinch bolt area and the backplate - where the plate the EZstart bolts on bolts to the crankcase - the seal is under the plate with part number 5274, there is no seal under the EZstart.

Be careful - the carb body on the 2.5 can crack if you overtighten the carb pinch bolt and allow air to leak. These are really hard to diagnose - usually takes a magnifying glass to even see the crack and they make only leak at certain throttle openings - some need a little stress from teh servo to open the crack, can be a hair pulling exercise to figure out.

If you didn't richen after installing the after market filter (when I put a MS filter on, I had to richen 1/4t to account for the additional air flow), its no wonder you were running good - you were prob lean. Either that or you were already running rich and the filter made it leaner and closer to where it should be. Only other poss is the filter made no diff in air flow at all.

[RCIntel]

I have hardly at all touched the LSN on the engine and have tuned mainly with the HSN. This worked well and my thruck was running good with the original air filter but when i put my Integy filter on and richened the mixture entering the carb i could not seem to keep the heat at the 270 degree's i have checked the carb for cracks and could find nothing, I'm going to try to cut the body to give more air to the engine and see if that does anything. The engine has good compression and turns over well.

[Duster_360]

You need to try to richen the LSN if you haven't ever touched it. Try 1/8T richer and see if that helps your temps. You may be able to lean the HSN some after getting the LSN more nearly correctly set.

I use an Atomik shell and have removed both the front and back windshield for cooling. Def a good idea - the other thing to try is lowering the body posts to let the shell sit lower, exposing more of the cooling head. Trim a little of the body away at the bottom of the front bumper will make a diff too as it lets air in there also.

If you cut a hole in the front windshield, removing or cutting hole in one or both side windows helps too.

To me, your HSN is rich (mines varies from like 3.5 - 3.75) and prob lean on the LSN (mines is 1/16t richer), but I'm near sea level (55') with high temps and high humidity - all affect your settings.

[RCfroman]

I just found a link for a t-maxx rear wing mount! I've got to pick one of these up. Here's the link if anyones interested, http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2878

[Blown96GT]

do these wings, really make it a better jumper

[RCfroman]

Well it gives it better down force. Which pushes the backend down so when you're driving at high speeds it keeps the car down instead of giving it uplift so that when you're turning at high speeds, it keeps the car from lifting. It's for the aerodynamics.

[Duster_360]

Its also a real nice handle (turn marshals appreciate that), so it need sto be strong enough to allow lifting. Some wings are mounted so weakly, they either don't survive a rear impact or fall off when they get pickuped up after a hit or landing on the rear.

[RCfroman]

Will a Savage rotostart fit on a 2.5?

[Duster_360]

Looks like it needs a diff backplate than the Sav uses -

http://www.ofna.com/start-shaft.html

[RCfroman]

Cool, thanks. Hey my dad is having some trouble with his maxx. It wont shift for the life of him. He's tried setting it to factory settings and it still didn't work. He got a new shifting thingy ( the part that you change how fast you shift) and it still doesn't work. Anyone know what's wrong?

[Maxxcrazy]

Check out what my TM can do. (Both of those were steel)

[Danzkz400]

RCZ Crew-

Well, it's been about 2 years since I left R/C and I have decided to come back. I just purchased a used T-Maxx 2.5 and am looking to do some initial upgrades. Apparently technology has changed quite a bit since I left. I am am interested in the following questions:

1. What are some popular upgrade sites to go to for parts, who do you use?

2. I have seen some 7.5" tires for the T-Maxx, who makes these/ where can I get them?

3. I would like to gain a bit more ground clearence from stock, what should I do?

Any and all help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

LT Dan

[Duster_360]

1. Depends on what you're looking for - http://www.towerhobbies.com/
try that one and search on Tmaxx, they carry most of the stock parts and most of the popular hop ups.

http://www.fullforcerc.com/products.htm offers some too.

Here's another - http://www.neweramodels.com/?session_id=mvrdhqxvvuxyiihvbhbvkksvuhjrrvwo . Kinda pricey though.
I get most of mine from Tower.

2. Imex tires - http://www.imexrc.com/TEMAXX_TIRES_NEW2.htm . See 6.5" and 8.5" . Expect to have to regear.

3. bigger tires is prob easiest way

[Danzkz400]

Was wondering if anyone had one and what their experience was with it? The company I saw that has the kit is Gallimods.com Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

LT Dan

[Danzkz400]

I had some new thoughts over the weekend, I decided to entertain making a 1:6 scale out of my T-Maxx. I'm in the process of planning a build of a 1:6 scale R/C. I will use all the running gear from my T-Maxx 2.5. I know I will need new driveshafts and maybe new "dogbones" (not sure what to call them now). The question I have is what measurements qaualify as a 1:6 scale? Is there sme way to figure out just how big to make the frame? Any help is greatly appreciated.

LT Dan

[S-MAXXfanatic]

Was wondering if anyone had one and what their experience was with it? The company I saw that has the kit is Gallimods.com Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

LT Dan
Heres a link of sum really sweet 6x6 tmaxxes. look @ the whole page. there's one w/ catterpillar like things 6x6 T-Maxxes (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?threadid=304805)

[triumph2010]

Hey, guys just bought new sport maxx which is almost a t-maxx. Anyway, I'm looking to upgrade with the 4x4 module. But, don't want to spend $42 on it. found some parts on ebay and was wondering if this would cover what I need. Looks like every thing include in the module kit that's in the pic on traxxas.com.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6021024649&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AIT&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6021067029&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AIT&rd=1

If the links don't work they are complete axle kit & Front, Rear Diffs. Any help would be great. Thanks

[tec_41]

Triumph, that's all you'll need...you're gonna love the 4wd :D

[triumph2010]

thanks, tec 41

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hey, im building up a t maxx piece for piece right now. Staying smallblock in it since i dont have the cash for bullet drivetrain to handle a big block. Anyway.... i have been out of the scene for a few months. IS the Sirio .18 still the fastest drop in motor? Im looking for the fastest drop in motor for under $150? Thanks

[Duster_360]

No, the OS18 CV-RX ran away from the Sirio 18 (and the FR18) in RCCA Dec '04 18 engine shootout. They ran 132' drag races and the OS ran 40.42mph in 6.27sec. The Sirio was 2nd, but at 37.31mph in 6.50sec. The FR18 was 36.41 in 6.62sec. The real deal is it costs so much less even with the work needed to get it mounted, you still come out ahead.

Here's what involved - http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/motor-swap/tm-motor-swap.asp

[BlueBeast8-Port]

So the OS18 CV-RX is the fastest drop in and best drop in motor to the maxx for the money?

[tec_41]

Well it's not a drop in exactly, it requires a little bit of cutting to make it fit. Not hard at all as long as you follow that link that Duster posted :)

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hows the price of it compared to the Sirio?

[BlueBeast8-Port]

How about the sirio .23 drop in? I udnerstand i may need some drivetrain crap but put that aside.Is this pretty much the fastest/most powerful direct drop in engine for the t maxx? If not, what is?

[Duster_360]

I don't know if the 23 is more powerful than the Ofna Picco .26 Tmaxx dropin.

http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-26max.html

[BlueBeast8-Port]

hmmm. which one should i get? car will be run on stock trans with rrp spur, rrp diffs and cvds. May need some better diffs but we'll see. Just want a rediculously powerful motor.

[Duster_360]

Can't help there. I'd lean toward the Picco cause I suspect its cheaper.

The RRP diffs won't last - unless you put them in a alum case of some kind - you're just talking RRP ring and pinion right? You need alum diff cup too with the bigger screws, using the plastic diff cup you won't get thru breakin.
Stock plastic diff cases will flex pulling ring and pinion out of mesh just enough so it lets pinion chew teeth off the ring gear. Been there, done that..., but hey, we've all got to learn right?

Unless you've bought the RRP stuff, there's better out there for less money. They do have a good spur arrangement, thats better than stock.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

yea, ive been there done that also. Had a full out brushless maxx last with UE diffs, ultramaxx gears and all the ****. I am very knowledgeable on all the hop ups. i am building a truck up and won an auction for diffs that had RRP gears and never used them before so that stinks. Well, im still unsure o nwhat engine to get. Someone tell me the fastest bang for the buck motor out there! thanks

[RCfroman]

So what is everything I should replace if I get a new faster engine for my Maxx?
collin

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Depends how fast you go. its not necessarily the speed, but the pwoer or "torque" A bigger engine wont be faster always but mroe powerful and this will break ****. More torque/power, youll need CVDs as the stock sliders will twist all to hell, upgraded diffs. This should hold you for a while. I ran stock trans without a problem so that shouldnt be an issue. maybe a new better slipper set up with steel spur. Also maybe some aluminum hexes as i notcied with my e maxx that had mad torque with the brushless, i twisted the stock hexed i nthe wheels ALL the time. hope this helps. Dynamite, or MIP CVDs should do, UE (unlimited Engineering) is the best but very pricey. Id say go MIP unless you dont have the cash, then RDLocgics or dynamite will do. For diffs, once again UE, the best. Then Kippster makes some good diffs, not sure if there still in business. Or you could get some RRP gears and aluminum cups. Really hope i helped ya! Some answer my engine question if ya could. Best/fastest bang for buck drop in engine!

[Mini-T Freak]

Some answer my engine question if ya could. Best/fastest bang for buck drop in engine!

This looks pretty decent :eek:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKHE9&P=ML

[BlueBeast8-Port]

yea, right now im drawn between the drop in picco .26 shown there, drop in sirio .23 or the sirio .18

[BishopRyan]

BlueBeast

I would go get a EB modded O.S. 18TM with a Traxxas pullstart UE spyder 8 diffs and UE top shaft with the super 6 FOC. MIP CVDs have done me good and not to expensive. UE bones are worth it and they aren't to pricey either.

EB modded is fast just my .18 TM without the mod smokes the 2.5 and I've flat out hustled a couple of .26 or .25 Savy's.

That setup right there is fast and reliable I would not go for any .23 or .26. Keep the weight down a bit and go small block you won't regret it. You'll get better gas mileage also. The UE diff are not that expensive compare to a sitting Maxx. They are worth the money ten fold.

This is the setup I run with drivetrain wise. The only differences are that I have got some OTB gears before Ben sold out.

Decide how much money you want to go in for first. If you just go and get a big block and some steel gears I don't think that will stand the test of time. RRP is ok for a .15 or so but a .23 and those diffs are toast. Just my .02.

[BishopRyan]

Well crap I just read back and you said for under 150.00 sorry. Anyway a O.S. 18 TZ slide carb and swap out for a TM crank would set you back 230 or so and that would be one tourquey beast and good on gas.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hmmm well $150 is out of the question now. ill dump in more. This car isnt a racer so weight isnt a big deal to me. I understand bout my drivetrain but im jsut trying to get input here onthe fastest motor out there for drop in. I would like rediculous speed itself, hopeuflly clsoe to 50 mph and on a ncie summer day, gank wheels in grass and insane on pavement. Reliability is nice and an easy tune would be awesome. How about the OS 18TM Vs Sirio 18? Or how actually wil lthe ofna 26 perform? Speed compared to os 18 or will it jsut be a wheelie machine. i have a feeling the sirio .23 will scream for top end! Input please.

[BishopRyan]

Hmmm well $150 is out of the question now. ill dump in more. This car isnt a racer so weight isnt a big deal to me. I understand bout my drivetrain but im jsut trying to get input here onthe fastest motor out there for drop in. I would like rediculous speed itself, hopeuflly clsoe to 50 mph and on a ncie summer day, gank wheels in grass and insane on pavement. Reliability is nice and an easy tune would be awesome. How about the OS 18TM Vs Sirio 18? Or how actually wil lthe ofna 26 perform? Speed compared to os 18 or will it jsut be a wheelie machine. i have a feeling the sirio .23 will scream for top end! Input please.

I'd be concerned with anything bigger than a .18 unless you have a solid drivetrain. You might be getting a screaming engine but It'll cost you later.

I don't think you'll see gains from a O.S.18 TZ to a Sirio .23 but I'm not that familiar with the Sirio line. O.S. 18TM is solid I'm very happy with it. If you want a little more the O.S. 18TZ is about as good as it gets unless you get something modded.

You can get more top end or more torque by simply changing the pinion and spur combo.

I seriously recommend the TZ its fast and easy to tune like my TM.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

So the TZ is faster than the TM? And will it jsut drop right in? And a price of it? Also about what type of speeds are we looking at in my maxx, pretty light, basically all stock parts minus shocks n minor stuff. Also wil lthis sucker gank wheels?

[Duster_360]

So what is everything I should replace if I get a new faster engine for my Maxx?
collin

This was good for the FR18 an the current OS18TM thats in my seriously modded Tmaxx (weights just 8lb 1oz - cut 1lb 5oz) - I bought FLM diff cup kit (2) comes with alum cup for the bigger screws, modded ring gear (drilled for the new screws) and new pinion, shims from McMaster-Carr, and GPM alum diff housing and collar. Was about $50 per diff when I did it. I bought the GPM stuff from Hong Kong and I've noticed their prices are up. I bought a full set of RDlogics CVDs (Ebay, $65) and they were great until I pushed too hard using a big block (27Picco). They were fine with either 18 and the TM does have noticeably more power than the FR18.

Run all 12pegs in the stock slipper - that was fine with either 18 too, but I have to watch the condition of the pegs and keep it tight. The TM will roast the slipper even with 12 pegs if you let it run it loose. I ran a stock traxxas FOC and never had any probs with the trans.

If you're going bigger or badder engine, the UE stuff is pretty much the only reliable way to get it done and it is expensive, but, the UE parts can be sold for 50-70% of what you paid for them when you move one to something else.

[Duster_360]

So the TZ is faster than the TM? And will it jsut drop right in? And a price of it? Also about what type of speeds are we looking at in my maxx, pretty light, basically all stock parts minus shocks n minor stuff. Also wil lthis sucker gank wheels?

OS rates the TM at 1.6 and the TZ at 1.8. RCCA dyno'ed the TZ at 2.28, making it the most powerful 18 ever (OS is conservative in the way they test engines). Thats more than some of the cheaper 21s make. You'll have no prob with wheelies. Matter of fact, wheelies will become a prob. I got really tired of having to walk across my back yard to flip mine back over on its wheels and that's with a TM. Moved weight forward, upped gearing and set tx to dial out some throttle response and its more controllable now.

Top speed is rpm and gearing. I think with stock gearing, the TZ and 2.5 top end will be about same. TZ will get there a whole lot quicker. You can drop several teeth on the spur or add a tooth on the CB and get more speed - the TZ has the torque to push higher gearing to the max. 2.5 doesn't and will really lose accel as you push gearing.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

ok sweet thanks! Will i have to modify the TZ at all to fit or anything? I noticed 2 different cranks available and 2 different carbs, which ones do i want? And TM vs TZ, i really want the TZ over TM?

[BishopRyan]

This is a direct fit

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLNG0&P=ML

and the TZ

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLNF9&P=7

I'm not sure of all the changes needed but I know you need to go to the TM crank to make a pullstart work and you may need to ask around on on any other changes but for sure you need the slide carb.

The setup I'm thinking is TZ slide carb with a TM crank and traxxas pullstart with a Dace offset motor mount and UE four shoe clutch. Now I'm more familiar with the TM since its a direct fit.

The TZ is nice but for a easy drop without hassles the TM is the ticket if you can go for the EB modded above that bad boy will smoke.

I think on the UE forum Chad Knorr does a CV-RX and his setup should work on a TZ you may want to post there for more answers than I can give you. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Good luck.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Wow, That EB Modifed is effin awesome. Too bad it has such a big price tag. How will a stock TM or TZ compare to it? Im not real sure i want to mod the TZ to make it work or is it really worth it? Suggestions....

[BishopRyan]

The TM is a very reliabable easy to tune and downright way better than the stock 2.5.
The TZ is a bit faster but I got the TM because it performs well and I didn't have to change anything to make work. Go with the TM I think its a solid choice.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Now will the TM simply out perform the sirio .18 drop in also?

[Duster_360]

Yes, the engine that won RCCA's drag off in 12/04, the OS 18CV-RX is not as powerful as the TM and the CV-RX had no prob beating both the Sirio 18 and the FR18, the 2 "hot" motors at the time.

The TM and the TZ had not been released when RCCA did their 18 engine shootout.

The TZ-TX (rotary carb, ps start model) may be an easier install. All you've got to do is convert to the older style rotary carb. On the onroad I swapping a 2.5 for a TZ, it's just a matter of turning the th/br servo around and getting it hooked up.

If you start swapping cranks, that gets real expensive! OS parts are not cheap for the TZ or TM.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Ok so i should go with the TM then. How much more pwoer am i looking at by going EB modded? Also, over on UE forums they were reccommending the RB .23?

[oswald]

tm is pretty expensive... but a good engine I heard. I have a different question - what good steering servo to get for the t-maxx? I just bought the truck (for $240 shipped, almost unused) but the steering servo (traxxas 2205) is pretty weak. Futgaba s3005 maybe, maybe something else?

[BlueBeast8-Port]

5945 hitec i believe it is, is supposed to be real good. A lot of people run the 645 mg for like $30, its decent but im not that fond of it, itd like something more powerful/faster

[giantsfan2575]

I'm having problems with the new clutch I got for my Maxx. It's the traxxas brand, i put it in and the truck won't move, I installed it the other way and it diod the same thing. I checked the brake, and it seems fine.
Anyone have an idea what could be wrong?

[Duster_360]

tm is pretty expensive... but a good engine I heard. I have a different question - what good steering servo to get for the t-maxx? I just bought the truck (for $240 shipped, almost unused) but the steering servo (traxxas 2205) is pretty weak. Futgaba s3005 maybe, maybe something else?


That stock servo is a futaba, makes 80in-oz and def a little weak. If you're going to upgrade, make sure you're using a good 6v hump pac and not 4 alkalines and you;ll need to upgrade the servo saver as well especially if you buy a metal geared servo. Here's some choices -

Hitec 645mg 133inoz/0.2sec @ 6v ~$40
Hitec 945mg 153inoz/0.12sec @ 6v ~ $75
Hitec 5945mg 180.5inoz/0.13sec @ 6v ~ $90 - digital ver of 945mg
Futaba 3305 124inoz/0.2sewc @6v ~ $38 (futaba ver of Hitec's 645mg)

Going up a step -

Futaba 9351 digital - 192inoz/0.13 @6v ~$110, metal case (cooling)
Airtronics 94358Z digitial - 200inoz/0.10 @6v ~ $100 metal case

645's get a bad rap - they're popular enough futaba came out with its own version to compete. Hitec stands behind them if they have trouble. Most send them in and get new as replacement even if they got them on a used rc and pretty quickly from what I read too. Hitec has solid customer service. I have 3 645mgs in diff rcs and never had a prob. I've tried the 3305 and its a good sero, just needs more pop. I've got a 5945 in my 1/8th buggys nad does a great job as does teh 945 in my Sav 4.6.

With these big MT tires/wheels strg needs around 150inoz. Makes a lot of diff, adding my 1st 645mg on a tmaxx - it was like a diff vehicle.

[Duster_360]

I'm having problems with the new clutch I got for my Maxx. It's the traxxas brand, i put it in and the truck won't move, I installed it the other way and it diod the same thing. I checked the brake, and it seems fine.
Anyone have an idea what could be wrong?

Things to check - sure the spring is tight, but allows shoe movement, and there's no binding of the shoes on the posts that they go on.

Check inside of the CB and make sure its clean - if this got a dose of grease (sometimes new CB brgs will spit grease for a while), nothing will grab and nothing will move. Pretty hard to mess up a 2 shoe clutch, should be something simple. Really shouldn't matter (as far as moving) which direction you put them on - trailing or leading.

[BishopRyan]

The AIR 358 is a nice choice I run the 357 and no complaints.

[Duster_360]

I bought a pair of the Futaba 9351's for strg duties. I was very close to trying an Airtronics, but since everything I've got is futaba based, I decided to stick with them. But it was more not knowing compatibility of the plugin as much as anything.

Took advantage of a Tower discount that made a pair about $30 cheaper than they would have been otherwise. Looks like a very nice servo.

[Mini Z]

Sup all, well i got a maxx 2.5 today and well its got quite a bit of hopups here and there. But the 2.5 isn't cutting it for me. So today i picked up a OS .18 CVRX, HPI Side Exhaust header, and Traxxas extension for the flywheel. Now i know the shaft needs to be cut but i started mounting the motor and noticed that i think the motor screws need to be cut for the stock 2.5 mounts am I right? Anyone else know what else needs modding for me to complete the process? I want to have it installed tomorrow for break in :D Also would like to hear some feedback on cv-rx .18 users. Thanks

[BishopRyan]

Sup all, well i got a maxx 2.5 today and well its got quite a bit of hopups here and there. But the 2.5 isn't cutting it for me. So today i picked up a OS .18 CVRX, HPI Side Exhaust header, and Traxxas extension for the flywheel. Now i know the shaft needs to be cut but i started mounting the motor and noticed that i think the motor screws need to be cut for the stock 2.5 mounts am I right? Anyone else know what else needs modding for me to complete the process? I want to have it installed tomorrow for break in :D Also would like to hear some feedback on cv-rx .18 users. Thanks
If you hit up the Unlimited Engineering forum and look up screen names Auraka and Chad Knorr they have gone through some very good clutch and motor mount setups using that engine very good info over there.

[Duster_360]

Here's a walk thru of teh install and all it takes - don't remember anything about cutting the motor mount screws -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/motor-swap/tm-motor-swap.asp

[BishopRyan]

Here's a walk thru of teh install and all it takes - don't remember anything about cutting the motor mount screws -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/motor-swap/tm-motor-swap.asp
Good article Duster nice find.

[Mini Z]

Yea about the 4 black bolts for the OS 18 CVRX i found that they were too long. So i went back to the trx 2.5 sillver hex ones with the 2 washers on each bolt and they work fine =). Now tomorrow to cut the shaft, then break in on monday because i need a new temp gun :rolleyes:

[Duster_360]

Post back what you think about it, I'm interested in hearing what you think of the CV-RX and how hard the install actually was. Remember, measure twice and cut once! Good luck

[BishopRyan]

Guys you outta go bump over to the UE forum Robin just put up a sticky on a UE clutch on a TM looks intresting.

[BishopRyan]

Check this out I got the clutch nut tapped no problem as soon as I can get some funds this cluch setup will go on my TM.

Then:

MBX5 flywheel E0702
Carbon shoes C0707
Assorted springs (1.0, 1.1) C0708 (w/carbon) & C0753 (w/Al)*
Mugen C0704 drilled to 1/4", tapped the M7 x 1 mm
Kyosho 92616 16t (super6 and 7.5 gears)
Mugen or NovaRossi #20000 collet (required ~.5mm trimming at wide end)

Strobe slipper w/bearing
Sprong (not required)
Plastic spur 51t (countersink screwholes)
Flat head screws (spur to slipper)

Ofna clutch shim pack 10099

[Duster_360]

Thanks for the heads up, BR. Interesting reading.

I took the simple route after reading all about your chasing hard to find pieces and the hard to tap clutch nut. I found an offset Dace motor mount and I'm expecting no probs installing that same clutch that MM detailed in his sticky. Course, I'll wind up with an unused std Dave motor mount, but that's the way it goes.

[BishopRyan]

Thanks for the heads up, BR. Interesting reading.

I took the simple route after reading all about your chasing hard to find pieces and the hard to tap clutch nut. I found an offset Dace motor mount and I'm expecting no probs installing that same clutch that MM detailed in his sticky. Course, I'll wind up with an unused std Dave motor mount, but that's the way it goes.If that works for you tried and true that would be the way I'll go since my project is unfinished sadly and the UE MM way would save me some good money and if I need to replace any parts they would be easy to get.

Tax return time will get me a monoblock chassis extension and possibly a racer x setup. Just haven't decided on that or a LSP or maybe a CRT. I'm also kinda intrested in a LST2 looks like a good basher.

[mdewitt71]

Here's a walk thru of teh install and all it takes - don't remember anything about cutting the motor mount screws -

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/motor-swap/tm-motor-swap.asp

Nice Help Article....I have an original TRX .15 Maxx and have a new 18. CVRX to drop in it.
I am assuming I dont need to cut the shaft like the article states for the 2.5 swap?
I am waiting till after Xmas then I will be dropping the .18, Revo tuned pipe, CVDs, and new lighter tires on my truck, should be a great improvement.

[Duster_360]

Check the distance on your old engine of flywheel to end of crank, make up the flywheel on the new engine with the trx clutch nut and measure it. If they're close, I would say no, you don't need to cut it. If its diff, then you need to cut it cause your clutch won't go together right.

I'm not that familar with the old style 15 engine, you may be right.

[Mini Z]

Well today i got my OS .18 CVRX fitted into my maxx and gonna break her in tomorrow. The mod wasn't hard at all, lol yesterday i picked up a Jobmate rotorytool [bootleg dremel?] anyway it did the job and now i'm happy =). The only odd thing is the stock 2.5 tmaxx pipe and the way its angled, looks kinda wack' if u ask me. =P

[suckfish]

If that works for you tried and true that would be the way I'll go since my project is unfinished sadly and the UE MM way would save me some good money and if I need to replace any parts they would be easy to get.

Tax return time will get me a monoblock chassis extension and possibly a racer x setup. Just haven't decided on that or a LSP or maybe a CRT. I'm also kinda intrested in a LST2 looks like a good basher. Well I've go tthe LST2 sitting under the Xmas tree I dont now about a a basher but it's looks awesome for the track.. Cant wait for spring to come now... So i'll keep raing the Mini LST which is a great little truck..

[suckfish]

getting my Maxx ready for ebay, polishing all the Harcore alum.. it's loaded Robinson racing gears, MiP universals, FOC, Os18TM, integy Shocks... Check out my homepage for some pic's..

[S-MAXXfanatic]

i just got a t-maxx today for christmas!!!! i was surprised by how monsterous this beast is! it took 4 hours to get it started up and it sputters i suppose that's normal for break in. it is so fun. it was fun working on it. the DVD is very helpful. i cant wait til tommorrow when i can get done w/ break in and let 'er rip. i need help w/ the idle. does the gear thats in the open(forget the name of the gear just now :p ) rotate slowly :confused: my dad and i disagree i need a ton of help! will you guys respond with stuff about your past break in problems/tips? thanx Merry Christmas :D




(EDIT) Forget the s-maxxfanatic im all t-maxx now!

[nitro_newbie]

man im having probs with my 2.5 it smokes alot but it runs in the 300 degree range and it is poping wheelies i thought it was because of the high speed needle being a little loose but i tightend the body and it helped alittle but it still ran hot so i dont know what it could be and the last time i ran it was a month ago and it was fine but it could be that it is warmer here now any suggestions on wat to do? should i reset the needle settings?
thanx
nitro~newbie

[S-MAXXfanatic]

Mine's runnin hot 2 and makin weird noises. just try different settings until it works well. try cutting the body a lil bit.

[Duster_360]

man im having probs with my 2.5 it smokes alot but it runs in the 300 degree range and it is poping wheelies i thought it was because of the high speed needle being a little loose but i tightend the body and it helped alittle but it still ran hot so i dont know what it could be and the last time i ran it was a month ago and it was fine but it could be that it is warmer here now any suggestions on wat to do? should i reset the needle settings?
thanx
nitro~newbie

You need to richen the high speed needle, you're running lean, 300F is too hot, you're killing engine life running that hot.Turn the HSN 1/8th counter clockwise (CCW) to richen and see if that brings temp down. I tune mine just about everytime I run it, its that sensitive to weather changes.

Also, cut as big a hole as you can in the windshield on the engine side and in the back to let cooling air flow thru body and across the head. You can also cut out the passenger side window to let more air flow in.

.... does the gear thats in the open(forget the name of the gear just now :p ) rotate slowly :confused: my dad and i disagree i need a ton of help! will you guys respond with stuff about your past break in problems/tips? thanx Merry Christmas :D

(EDIT) Forget the s-maxxfanatic im all t-maxx now!

Thats the spur gear and at idle it will turn, it also will look like it wobbles which it does, but its ok, they all do.

Tips - the needles are sensitive on this motor, theres a small sweet spot where it runs really well at reasonable temps. It does tend to run hotter than others, but this is a race motor - to be expected. I adjust needles no more than 1 or 2 clock hours (think watch face) at the time. I only tune when engine is hot and then give it time to see what my change really did. Takes patience, but it has its rewards. The DVD offers a good way to get it there. After you've runit a little, watch teh DVD again, it will mean a lot more after you know a little about what they're talking about.

If your's is making weird noises, they make weird noise when they are run too lean. If it sounds real tinny, its lean, need to richen it up.

[S-MAXXfanatic]

i told my dad we needed to richen it! we're goin to rite now. it ran great today!!! i got well over 40 mph after break in. oh i also busted through a fence post. i swear!!!

[S-MAXXfanatic]

I love my T-Maxx


(doesn't everybody?)

[nitro_newbie]

well if it is lean that woulb explain the shuting off after i let off the throtle after a couple of passes but wat about the thick blue smoke and oil from the exhaust any ideas wat could be wrong/
nitro_newbie:)
also wat would i need to upgrade in the drivetrain if upgrade to a four stroke like a .46 os one will i need to get all metal gear tranny and ue diff or or would a driveshaft upgrade just be fine any imput would be great

[tec_41]

First off, it sounds like you're too rich. Oil, smoke, and fuel from the exhaust almost never indicate a lean engine. It's possible that you have an air leak, so check the lines and such.

.46??? Don't even bother...you will shred so many gears and tear apart your diffs. If you wanna go big block then you will definately need a metal gear tranny and possibly diffs.

[RCfroman]

I wouldn't go with a .46, that's gonna be a lot of money down the drain if you manage to strip out the metal gears.

[nitro_newbie]

so a .46 fourstroke will eat my drive train alive well i could go smaller.but yeah thats wat i thought so how do i fix the air leak and i think i know were it is the high speed needle because that side of the carb is always moist and wet looking so wat rtv should i use thanx and is that common with this motor
nitro~newbie B)

[nitro_newbie]

i also forgot to say if the .18 cv-rx with the slide carb any good it is cheaper than buying a new 2.5 and wat side exhaust woud you guys recommend and could i use blue thunder race formula fuel with it thanx
nitro_newbie:)

[Duster_360]

i also forgot to say if the .18 cv-rx with the slide carb any good it is cheaper than buying a new 2.5 and wat side exhaust woud you guys recommend and could i use blue thunder race formula fuel with it thanx
nitro_newbie:)

18CV-RX is a side exhaust, you'll need manifold and pipe - lots run that engine and seems almost as good as the TM -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXN1&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP47&P=ML

Remember you've got to cut the crank -

Any oxygen sensor safe RTV silicone sealant will work, I use the permatex brand from a local auto parts house. Common - no, but it does happen. Don't know about the blue thunder fuel though, no experience with it.

[nitro_newbie]

my dad has this high temp rtv but why does it have to be oxygen sensor safe does it hurt the motor?thanx for the reccomendations for the exhaust and would this be a good one
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/148025.asp
or this one
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/148026.asp
thanx
nitro_newbie

[Duster_360]

If its not oxygen sensor safe silicone, it will corrode your alum case and backplate.

Can't say on the XTM pipe, never read any feed back on anyone using that one. Was on traxxas forum tonight and read that THS has redesigned their header pipe so it will clear the rear shock it was close too and over there, they are saying that its "the" pipe.

If you go with the XTM pipe,let us know how it works and what you think about it.

[RCfroman]

I use a dynamite pipe on mine and it gave me a lot more torque and a little more speed. Which is great for the kind of bashing I do with mine.

[nitro_newbie]

thanx i was about to seal my carb today but i couldnt because it was raining parents wont let me do it inside so i guess ill pick it up tommorow but i dunno if to get the stuff and wait for the 2.5 to crap out or wait wat shoyld i doi was also going to buy a dremel toobut thanx anyways i forgot to add that if i could use a mcoy/dynamite mc-59 plug for the cv-rx .18 or should i use the o.s 8 plug thanx
nitro-newbie:)

[Petox20]

hey, do you guys have a problem with it dying alot? If you could hlp me figure it out that would be nice. I dont think it's because the fuel caps not closed, so i was thinking that maybe I should adjust the idle screw. If anyone knows, I would to here what u have to say.:D

Robc's son

I had the same problem. The factory settings on my engine wasn't right, and, after three trips to my local hobby shop, it was set right and now it starts and runs very well. The factory instructions say not to change the factory settings on the engine before break-in is complete, but on my engine it was so messed up that it wouldn't run, only fire with the starter turning the engine over. I hope this helps.

[Petox20]

So what fuel and fuel % are you all using? I am looking at going with 10%. How much power loss will I see?

The best % nitro for the T-MAXX is 15%, if you can find it. It offers a compromise. It has more power then 10%, but it is easier on the engine and is easier to tune the 2.5 to than 20%. It is also cheaper than 20%. If your just bashing in your yard, than 15% is the best way to go. For competition, 30% or so is a good nitro content.

[johnnysonline]

Hello,
I'm new here and have owned my TMaxx 2.5 for about 5-6 weeks now.
(I dont know how to create a new post here so I replied)
I had my truck out earlier climbing a nice 5 or 6 foot hill, rolled it once or twice and now I cannot get my truck to go forward. The servo works and sometimes it will go into reverse for a little bit, even goes forward sometimes just for a split second then whines and doesnt work. I'm thinking about taking the transmission apart but I am pretty new at this.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Johnny

[Duster_360]

Def try some other things before pulling trans and looking there. These can get stuck between gears and thats what I'd suspect on yours. With it tunrned off see if you can push the shift lever any further in towards the trans. You might try rolling it on the ground while trying to manually shift it into forward. If you can move it, the shift servo prob just needs to be re- centered.

Crank it up and see if it now has forward. If it does, shut it down and carefully unscrew the servo horn from the shift servo. Turn all the electronics on (TX always turned on 1st), then off again (TX is turned off last). This recenters the servo. No put the horn back on the servo while putting some tension toward the transmission in the linkage. What you want is to slightly increase the angle of the servo horn toward the trans from wher it was when you started.

I had same prob with mine, but it would also get into reverse and not come out. It was a matter of adjusting the travel of the servo arm to get the shift rod to fully engage fwd and fully engage reverse.

BTW, welcome to the forums.

[johnnysonline]

Hi Duster,
Thanks again.
The metal arm that connects with the shift lever moves left and right freely, I'm not sure but I dont think it is supposed to do that.
Any thoughts on that?
Thanks,
Johnny

[Duster_360]

Not sure what it is that you're moving. The rod/linkage that is connected to the servo are will move back and forth - you can shift trans manually by moving that rod/linkage - all the way in is FWD, all the way out is rev. Its been a while since I've fooled with this, but I think it will only move while its not running.

Is the metal arm you refer to the rod/linkage that connects to teh servo and goes into the trans?

[johnnysonline]

The Rod swivel I'm talking about connects to the transmission. The tower for the swivel is blue and there is a metal rod that comes out that connects to the shift rod that connects to the servo.
This link will show the rod I'm talking about.
http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/maxx/tmaxx25r/trx_tmaxx25r_views.htm
Just click on the owners manual and go to page 6
Thanks alot,
Johnny

[johnnysonline]

Hey, I took the trans apart and found out a couple of the teeth on my "output gears,forward and reverse/drive dog carrier" have a couple grooves in them. I have searched the net and I found that the part number for it, which is #5395, comes up as a REVO part. I have a TMaxx 2.5 and I'm not sure they are compatible.
Do you know if that is correct??
And do you recommend a good site to purchase one at?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Johnny

[grandprix]

Hey guys, I'm just waiting on my new maxx. I'm looking at doing a 4 wheel steering system on it. Is there any hints, tips, parts I should be looking at?

[johnnysonline]

Hello,
I have a Traxxas T-Maxx (Model 4910)
that includes the TRX 2.5 Racing Engine.
It seems I keep stripping my gear
(output gear assembly, forward 26-T #4997 <--Traxxas info)
And the closest ball bearing(5116) to that gear is always out of place and loose in the tranny.
My Question is do you have any suggestions why this happens and what I can do to prevent it?

Thank you very much,
Johnny

Also another question: When replacing the (spur)gear 72-tooth (4472)outside the tranny, how tight should it be?

[Petox20]

The Rod swivel I'm talking about connects to the transmission. The tower for the swivel is blue and there is a metal rod that comes out that connects to the shift rod that connects to the servo.
This link will show the rod I'm talking about.
http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/maxx/tmaxx25r/trx_tmaxx25r_views.htm
Just click on the owners manual and go to page 6
Thanks alot,
Johnny
I am almost positive you are talking about the brake linkage. It seems to me to be the only place on the truck with a blue part holding up the linkage. To be sure, does the linkage (rod or thick wire) have a what looks like a small section of fuel tubing on it? If so, it is definately the brake. Pull it manually so the tubing compresses against the part that holds it up and connects it to the blue part (for lack of a better term), and while still holding it, try to roll the truck your self with the engine and electronics off. if it doesn't roll or is harder to roll, I can say without a doubt it is the brake. (Tip: I like to use yellow fuel tubing to begin with, so I cut a piece of it the same length of the thinner length of rubber tubing and replaced it with the yellow fuel tubing. It not only looks cool, it gives stronger braking action.)

[Petox20]

Jonny, did you open your tranny to try to fix the forward shifting problem? If so, maybe you did something to it without knowing it. I don't have any advice, but call Traxxas and ask them. It's free, and they are suposed to be understanding and knowlegable. Never called them, though, so I don't know how true it is. Sorry your having so many problems. Please, don't get discouraged and quit. I had several problems my self with my first nitro. I had a Tamiya Super Manta Ray before, and it only prepared me somewhat for my HPI Nitro RS4 3 SS. It was a kit, and it was nitro. Building it was relatively easy, but getting it going was harder. Don't give up on it though. I think once you work out the bugs you will have a lot of fun.

[Petox20]

Why does this thread seem dead today? There's got to be some Maxx owners out there online. Is the Aluminum Racing Clutch Shoe Set for the T-Maxx by Hot Bodies any good? I hate to double and triple post, but nobody is on today. I just had a great idea a little while ago. I have the Hot Bodies catalog. I have always wanted a VW Beetle body to make a kind of Baha Beetle Type body, you know. I saw that you can order an unpainted E-Zilla body, which is very close to what I wanted. a few simple mods and it would be sweet. Seeing as the E-Zilla is a 1/10 scale truck, I figure it should fit the 1/10 scale T-MAXX. If anyone has tried this, or has an E-Zilla or E-Zilla body and any kind of MAXX, I'd be very gratefull if you'd see if the wheel base is similar and if it seems like it would fit. Thanks. Feel free to try this out on your own, I wouldn't mind as long as you told me how it went. :) They also have some sweet bodies. A Chevy SS-R, which I've never seen before is a sweet modern looking custom pick up. The Hummer H2 body is pretty nice, and the Dodge Kahuna, complete with two surf boards on the roof, is awsome (I used to surf before I injured my back.), though the truck body itself is not the greatest.

[RCIntel]

you asked why it seems dead today, first its saturday and i personally was out running my Maxx at a friends private track and having a load of fun doing it. to answer your question I think that any aluminum clutch setup is the way to go when you want to have really fast acceleration, because i have yet to find something that grabs the clutch bell, (gear), better then an aluminum one. I prefer the integy 3-shoe but im sure the hot bodies one is just as good.

Maxx enthusist.

[Duster_360]

One of my Tmaxxes uses the GA alum 3 shoe clutch setup and its been great, hooks well and has been trouble free. I have a HB 3 shoe in a 1/8 buggy and its been great as well. I would expect their 1/10th version to be the same.

I've seen the Beetle body but it was on a seriously modded 1/8 so I can't answer your question on fitting it to a Tmaxx.