Kyosho Lazer ZX, ZXS, ZXR, Alpha [Archive] - Page 2

welshy40

04-01-2004, 07:05 AM

Lazerfan1 - that chassis is either a ZXR Mk1 or 2. You can tell if its a mark one buy measuring up the holes buy putting it up against the ZX chassis. If all screw holes match up its a Mk1, if the top deck holder (like the metal one I want) holes do not match up and are 2 to 3mm closer to the motor then its a Mk2.

The screw section can be cut away and filed down for the seventh hole (this was for the US market due to 7 cell racing at the time.) However the standard zx layout is the best platform for your car as the battery placement is in the best place. The ZXR Mk2 had the batteries further towards the motor and too be honest was crap. It jumped better, but wasnt as quick in or out of corners due to the new weight distribution.

I have the batteries 5mm further forwards and also inwards to the centre on my design of chassis. I will be trying it out for the first time this weekend and give you the lowdown on how the chassis performed on monday

Lazerfan1

04-01-2004, 02:18 PM

oK LET ME GET THIS STRAIGHT YOU ARE SAYING THAT THE CHASSI THAT HAS THE SEVENTH SLOT FOR 7 CELL RACIN IS THE MK2 CHASSI AND THE ONE THAT HAS THE SIX SLOTS IS THE MK1 CHASSI? DO I HAVE THIS INFORMATION CORRECT? OR IS IT THE OTHERWAY AROUND? I THINK THAT THIS CAR WOULD BE AN ABSOLOUT ROCKET WITHA SEVEN CELL PACK IN IT! BUT I CAN GUESS THAT YOU HAVE ALREADY BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT RIGHT!!!! I CAN'T WAIT TILL YOU GIVE ME THE LOWDAOWN ON YOUR NEW CHASSI DESIGN IT SOUND INTERESTING! LATER FOR NOW......

fabolousRC

04-01-2004, 07:30 PM

Cool! That is some real good info and thanks. I really thought that by making the top plate the chassi out ot titanium steel would really be the best and that it would not ever break! Wo thanks for the advice I think that I will go with carbon fiber then like you suggested.So what do you think of the idea of making a motor plate out of the TT steel? Would it sraw the heat away from the motor as good as the orignial Alumin motor heat sink plate? YEs I have flipped my rear a-arms around and it handles much better thands for pointing that out! I think I will save for the fiberlight chassi and parts. Later for now ..................

Copper is better than aluminum or TT...but it is heavy and easily rust with a sprinkle of water.

welshy40

04-02-2004, 03:11 AM

Lazerfan1 - the ZXR Mk1 chassis and Mk2 have 7 holes in both, but the mk2 has the batteries placed several mm's closer to the motor which means the weight distribution is further back and is not very good on the cars handling.

If you put the chassis on your cars chassis, and look at the screw holes, if they match up (all of them) then its a Mk1, if the motor/top deck mount (the one I pictured twice as I need one) two screw holes do not match up then its a Mk2, as this on the Mk2 chassis is further back closer to the motor.

I also reckon you should not buy titanium screws as they also have a tendancy to snap in the car (it happened to me) and is a nightmare to get out.

The only titanium you need are the tie rods, the chassis, top deck, Front and rear shock mounts, the servo plate, the steering brace and L brace are better in Carbon Fibre, as the are lighter and will flex instead a little so breakedge is minimal. I have only broken a steering brace, and if it was the metal one I would have broken the steering parts as well.

My chassis design only has six holes, as I dont have room for another. It is designed so I could make the ZX-S bodyshell fit. (Tower Hobbies is the only place in the world who have it in stock) I know Dahms do a shell for the Lazer thats fine for your car.

The Top Deck I have redesigned again to rectify the problem I had, and in the process have moved the outer hole in the top deck by the servo and used the middle and other outer instead so I could move the servo further in towards the belt, for better weight distribution. I will send pics as I may confuse on this subject

welshy40

04-02-2004, 03:30 AM

Lazerfan1 - Im outta here until Monday, so will talk to you then. I hope I havent confused, and hopefully the air is clear again. I will let you know how the car performed on Monday. Im going to try a few ideas out - I have tried the rear wishbones back to front before and didnt like (that was 6 or 7 years ago, but will try again this weekend. Later

YR4Dude

04-02-2004, 01:30 PM

Lazerfan1 - Its a ZX.

I reckon you should get the parts that I have on my car, like two silver bars I have in the centre of my chassis, as this gives you more room on the chassis.

Also the L brace,servo mount, steering brace and both shock mounts from a ZXR are better than the ZX, especially the ones I have. They have more options to dial your car, and it also looks better and is stronger. If the A&L items bends it breaks your front gearbox as well, and trying to get replacements is almost impossible. The carbon fibre shock mounts havent broken on me yet.

If its looks you want as well as performance then the black associated ball joints look superb and do a good job.

But most definately the steering item as it stops all bumps steering and makes the car more driveable and the longer front driveshafts. Once you have all of them then your car should be complete.

Oh yes one more thing, the front belt needs to be stupidly loose, so that you can actually push it through your top deck - the car is more efficient that way, and very free when costing.
Its a ZXR Mk1. There only six battery slots with the battery straps at an angle towards the center from back to front. The ZX chassis has battery slots more forward with a psuedo slot for a possible 7th cell with battery straps straight from back to front. I know this because I have both. From my experience with the parts from Australia is that all the ZXs and ZXRs come with FRP (another name for fiberglass) chassis. NO GRAPHITE. The ZXRs from Australia come with FRP chassis and shock towers.
Lazerfan - check and see if yours is FRP or not

Lazerfan1

04-02-2004, 03:52 PM

YR4-Dude Yes my chassi that I got from the guy in australia said that it was the FRP chassi and he had told me that it was from the zxr even though that this chassi that I have recieved fromhim had only the 6 slots on it. IT is wierd because the instructions that he sent me that has the exploded diagram shows a chassi that has the seven slots on it and is labled as a ZXR on the Diagram. Boy I learn more and more about this car each day! It is amazing how many versions that there are of this car! Could you list all of the versions of this car from the sport versions to the Racing modified versions?????? IN order to help me understand more about the history of this car and all of its forms? You and Welshy40 have been really great helps to me! Thanks for actually starting this thread. If it wasn't for this thread then I would have retired this car along time ago!! So thanks for everything :D Later for now.
Oh check out the yokomo thread I've started posting there for now I have the New MR4bc and having problems with it!! Maby you can give me advice there in order to help me out! Later

welshy40

04-05-2004, 05:07 AM

Lazerfan1 - well All I can say is that with the standard Lazer ZX chassis layout the car is better with the standard kit layout including wishbones, the lap times are quicker.

But the new chassis prototype I have designed seems to go better with the wishbones the other way round and Im now in the position where Im having to throw my old setup out of the window and start fresh.

The car was rubbish on Friday. I won, but as my friends said, it looked awful and the back end had no grip and the car was super twitchy.

Im back in a month to set up with the wishbones your way around and then a couple of weeks later Im going to set it up with the wishbone the correct kit way.

Also the drive train was awesome, I used a new Peak Performance 10 single Vantage motor and with a 100T spur and a 21T pinion. It was quite quick, but am worried i may blow up the GT7 if I gear up any more. It was sooooo smooth and at least was satisfied with all those hours of hard work to sort it out properly. In fact it was too smooth, on the most agressive setting.

I also last night changed the spur gear system. I added the slipper plate from the 2wd Kyosho car (it has 4 scew holes in it), and put a Kimborough 93T spur on. The standard Hyper clutch plate cannot fit anything except a schumacher spur or RPM, with a slight modification to the spur. This is what I fitted.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVL59&P=7

So I fitted the new one, and boy what a difference. I cant wait to try it. I now have a 93T with a 20t pinion (I think 3 spur teeth are the equivilant of half a pinion).

I also think as YR4Dude said that I made an error. The ZX had 6 holes, the ZXR mk1 had 7 holes, but the batteries were in the same plcing as the ZX. This is the order of Lazers.

ZX Great Car!!
ZXR Mk1 Great Car!!
ZXR Mk2 Average car due to chassis Layout
ZXR/R Average car due to chassis Layout, but what a brilliant drivetrain!!
ZX-S The best Lazer ever, a Masami beater ou the box!!
ZX-S Evolution The team version, bettering the best and what a car!!

Lazerfan1

04-05-2004, 08:55 AM

Hey thanks for all the great information! It feels really good to be able to talk to people who KNOW what the heck they are talking about when it comes to this car!!! :D . IT sounds like you should be in the Kyosho R&D department, or are you already??? I would love to be able to meet you someday and be able to learn all the tuning Techiniques from you and everything that you know! But unless I can get shipped over there or if you come to the states in order to race it is not quite possible right now! But till then keep on racing. oh don't worry about the gearing or blowing up your GT7 there are some guys that gear their cars to the moon when they run 6 and 7 singles in some of there xxx4 cars on the track and they havenot blown there GT7's up yet!!! So Later for now............... :D

welshy40

04-05-2004, 11:11 AM

Lazerfan1 - Well if you ever do get over to the UK - let me know and we will meet up for a few beers (proper beer).

Im not in the R&D but I have made a few changes that have made a big difference.

I just like to make things as simple as possible, and easy to maintain.

Considering I have to keep with the times the car has to be changed on a regular basis to keep up with the opposition.

At the moment my car is quicker than I thought would be possible, well than the Yokomo MX whatever its called, as I blew it away down the straight, and it was geared on the same ratio as mine - I was two or three car lenths ahead by the corner, the drivetrain on my car is almost perfect, I am almost totally happy with it now.

The top deck should be done by the end of the week hopefully, and it should (touch wood) be a perfect fit.

However I made the shock tower wrong at the front - I rolled and it broke (I made 5 mistakes in 5 races, not good) it in half. I know what I did wrong so I will eventually get it right - its trial and error, then perfection.

welshy40

04-05-2004, 11:12 AM

Lazerfan1 - Well if you ever do get over to the UK - let me know and we will meet up for a few beers (proper beer).

Im not in the R&D but I have made a few changes that have made a big difference.

I just like to make things as simple as possible, and easy to maintain.

Considering I have to keep with the times the car has to be changed on a regular basis to keep up with the opposition.

At the moment my car is quicker than I thought would be possible, well than the Yokomo MX whatever its called, as I blew it away down the straight, and it was geared on the same ratio as mine - I was two or three car lenths ahead by the corner, the drivetrain on my car is almost perfect, I am almost totally happy with it now.

I just need to set it up now and job done.

The top deck should be done by the end of the week hopefully, and it should (touch wood) be a perfect fit.

However I made the shock tower wrong at the front - I rolled and it broke (I made 5 mistakes in 5 races, not good) it in half. I know what I did wrong so I will eventually get it right - its trial and error, then perfection.

Lazerfan1

04-05-2004, 11:58 AM

Well like they say practice make perfect perfection! :D So have you ever thought of apolying for a position in the R&D department for Kyosho? If you haven't you probly should! I sure could use a guy like you in my R&D department if I had my own company! Keep up with the perfection at work and keep kicking all of Losi and The Yokomos *** all over the track until the Lazer reclaims its world Title! Thanks for soldiering on the war........... :D

Lazerfan1

04-05-2004, 08:17 PM

Welshy40 Hey My ides came to life with the KX-1 I was just ove on the 4-wheel drive welcome page and saw the new 4 wheel drive cars that just popped up. They all look awsome! I'm very curious about the KX1 though :cool: HMMMMM very curious. and The yokomo shaft drive car also looks pretty awsome! So what do you think about the KX-1 Layout?

welshy40

04-06-2004, 04:12 AM

Lazerfan1 - I made a mistake its 3 spur teeth is the equivalent to 1 pinion gear tooth - oops.

The 4wd's look good (with exception of the Tamiyas, where the worlds winning one is the only one that looks good).

The KX1 looks really good, and the guy that spent hours on it thought it through, but there are things that still were not done correctly - these cars were not designed buy the companies, but by racers, as the finishing was poor.

When Kyosho makes a prototype they make it perfect in every way, and the same goes for the other manufacturers (some plastic items may be white as well), so we rekon that the Japanese magazine is more thorough and investigates one offs just to keep the public interested in the sport.

The KX1 and the worlds Tamiya look good, however the best handling I would say is the Kyosho, but the Tamiya would have the better drive train. However if the servo and steering were in a different position on the Kyosho it would be a better car again, so you can tell its a one off just by looking at the steering. Very nice tho.

Lazerfan1

04-06-2004, 03:58 PM

Welshy-40 Hey all of those cars look great it is really great to see the 4-wheel drive spawn off with many other vehicles other than Losi it is good to see all these other companies coming up with the new ideas! I will have to tell you though I really just jumped on the band wagon for Yokomo and I have to say that my LAZER IS BY FAR STRONGER AND STURDIER THAN THE YOKOMO EVEN THOUGH THE YOKOMO STILL OUTACCELLERATES IT. BUT MY BIGGEST COMPLAINT IS THAT THE RIGHT FRONT SUSPENSION ARM BREAKS EVERY TIME I GO ON THE TRACK TO JUST GE PRACTICE TIME IN! tHEN i TOOK OUT MY MOD MOTOR AND PUT IN A PEAKHELLFIRE STOCK MOTOR AND I BLEW OUT THE FRON DIFF! i'M GETTING VERY DISCURAGED WITH THIS CAR. I JUST MAY TRY AND SELL IT AND GO AND TRY THIS BJ4 THAT EVERYBODY IS TALKING ABOUT OR EVEN MABY THE SB SPORT BY ACADEMY. ALL i KNOW IS THAT I WANT SOMETHING SOLID SO EVERYTIME THAT I GO OVER A BUMP OR A JUMP I WILL NOT BREAK! SO AS I PONDER WITH ALL THE NEW CHOICES OF THE 4-WHEELDRIVE WORLD I WILL WONDRE WHICH ONE I'M TO GO WITH NEXT :confused: :confused: :confused: LATER........

welshy40

04-07-2004, 03:28 AM

Lazerfan1 - how the hell did you break the front wishbone arm?? Thats reinforced kevlar plastic - its stronger than graphite. Are they Kyosho parts (tower sell them you know). Or are you breaking the brackets that hold the wishbones on the front of the gearbox??

And the diff - is it gear or ball?? If its gear then the cups screws fell out or what?? If its a ball diff then Im lost for words as the only thing I can think of is it wasnt rebuilt properly. I have only had the gear diff cups come off, never anything else.

I think you need to do a bit of work before you race it again, as my Lazer out accelarates everything, including Yokomos and Losis, and Cats. I raced on carpet last weekend and high grip it was, and nothing got past me from beggining to end.

Do you have a gear ratio chart?? If not then I can type one in for you tomorrow, as I think maybe your ratios aren't right.

welshy40

04-07-2004, 04:01 AM

Lazerfan1 - I have also noticed another thing that doesnt look right on your car. The castor block you have - do you have another hole on the very corner of it on the top, as where your tie rod is now is interupting the travel when landing off jumps. I would put a shorter rod on and use the corner hole instead.

Back to the wishbones, were the ones you broke from the same packet?? If so then you could have had a faulty batch, as this has been heard to happen once in a blue moon, maybe you were the unlucky one?? I think they are Kyosho, but your pictures are hard to make out. I see you have alloy brackets which is good, so do I. I have also noticed that you dont have the front section on your wishbones as well, the part where the shock fits into - that part is a strengthening part, so you shouldnt cut off.

I will say again that you really need to put some time in on your car, dont forget its 15 years old, so needs some TLC - like mine has had. You need to get the instructions out and totally rebuild it, and maybe upgrade the chassis and top deck etc in the process. Tower do the Ball diff kits still, and diff plates. I have the part numbers at home. They are a good investment if you have gear diffs.

I spent a lot of time looking and making the gearboxes almost perfect, smooth, efficient and in top working order - this is a must.

I also changed the bushing on the layshaft with a bearing (and a slimmer one at that).

I also obviously replaced the belts and little gears as well.

I also included the chassis and top deck, as the amount of bend the top deck and chassis may give can alter the performance, as well as how tight the belt is.

Also the correct length on the top deck is a must - Im currently working on this as we speak.

Im doing all the leg work, so that all you guys need to do is buy it for yourselves, obviously when I have done all the test work and approved it first. Im enjoying this, developing the parts to a new level, bettering a really good product, and keeping us ahead of the game. I cant help it, but Im always going to be a Lazer freek.

Have a look here http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/ and look at the Kyosho ZXR mk1, they will evan ship it to you. But If you wait a while - a month or so then my designs will also be on it, as I have given them permission to sell them. The pictures they have dont look good, but they do an outstanding job. I would reckommend not buying the front shock mount though, as I have a better stronger design which will be up soon.

Lazerfan1 - dont sell up, just make it better.

Lazerfan1

04-07-2004, 04:45 AM

Welshy-40 Thanks for doing all the leg work and for all the advice and words of encouragment and because of this I will always remain faithful to the LAZER and even though I do have the new Yokomo I may eventually sell that if it does not get any better but I will never get rid of my faithful Lazer. Your right about the suspension arms , those were a used set off another lazer that I got from a guy who had a bunch of parts in a box who sold them to me for good price and that is when I found out that these particular arms were wider than the stock arms that I had on it. Just remember that this car started out as a basic kit called the Lazer Sport! and had beenupgraded since then to what you see now.SO I guess that you could say that it is a missmatch of parts put together! Yes I will take your advice on the casterblock to switch to the inside hole! I'll give that a try. Since then I bought another pair of front arms from another guy and now I have the extra material n the front suspension arms like they should! In a month or so I would really like to get your chassi that you are curently designing! So keep up all the good hard work that you are doing for all us Lazer fanitiacs! Thanks again......................

welshy40

04-07-2004, 07:02 AM

Lazerfan1 - thanks.

Listen, tower hobbies - on their search thread type in the LA numbers and see what they have in stock. Get at least three sets of wishbones, and the standard castor blocks - the alloy I think are a bit too strong as well.

The carbon fibre stuff - well Im doing the top deck now, the front shock tower next, then the chassis - but the chassis is going to be a while.

You do know you can get a shell from Dahms for the Lazer?

Is your diff gear or ball?

Lazerfan1

04-07-2004, 08:53 AM

Welahy-40 The way I broke the front suspensionarm on the right front side was that I was driving it up and down the street and I caught a glitch when I drove it a little ways down the street at full speed and then took a right hand glitched turn straight at a car tire and it sheared the arm in half and that is when I had the arms on that someone took off the plactic piece around where the front shock mounts and I now have new arms on that I bought from towers! Much better and stronger! No I do not have a gear chart at to what gear ratios to run with different motors! Like I had said before when I got this car it was bone stock as they come and now after owning it over 1 and a half years I added the FRP chassi and top plate and the Slipperclutch system with the oneway on the shaft and the ball differentials and the universial drive shafts and the Ultimate kyosho shocks wich are very ingenious so you can build them associated or even losi style and they are very smooth that is what I love about them then I added the A&l motor plate and front and rear shock towers and the front alumin casterblocks with the alumin steering knuckles and of course I upgraded to a full set of ball bearings too boot I had to get those first over all other upgrades those bronse bushings sucked out loud! I still looking to get the new driveshafts for my front end due to my old ones breaking just due to wear and tear!!!! Then I'll get a new body later and just go ahead and tear down the car and give it a tortal rebuild!!! Any setup and gearratios that you can throw my way will be greatly appriciated>>>THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!! :D :D

welshy40

04-07-2004, 11:11 AM

Lazerfan1 - the Gear ratio chart is coming tomorrow. Im still wondering why your diff blew out - was your screw loose, or the bearing seize. That has really got me, as I have never come across that one. Yes the diff is never smooth like the associated cars, but it does the job well enough. Maybe a stone got in the front gear casing stopping it working......????

Driveshafts - dont forget to get the longer fronts, it does make the difference.

Also maybe you should invest in the front plastic 7 degree front castor blocks, it will increase the steering on your car as well as make it handle better, on the other hole though, with the longer driveshafts.

Im using traxxas trx1 shocks, and find them easier to use than anything else, mind you once I have a setup for carpet, I just swap the pistons around and its ready for out doors. I liked the designs of the kyosho shocks, but they can be a bit of a pain to get right.

Micha_MX4

04-07-2004, 01:18 PM

welshy,

would be cool if you could post the part#'s of the ball diff rebuild kit,
the diffs in my ZX-RR look like they have never been rebuilt...

Thanx,
Micha

Lazerfan1

04-07-2004, 03:07 PM

Welshy-40 The diff that I blew out was in my Yokomo MR4-BC. Not my Lazer just in case I confused anybody! And The front suspension arms are on the right front side that keep breaking on my YOKOMO! That is the car that I'm thinking about getting rid of if it keeps breaking and not my Good Trusty Lazer! How the diff blew out I'm just not sure? But since I bought it already put together the Hobbyshop owner thinks that the guy built it Had it loose and didn't tighten it down. I checked the bearing and it was good and there were no stones in the diff at all. Where can I get the 7 degree casterblocks?? Thanks for all your help!!! My car really needs it. Later

welshy40

04-08-2004, 03:47 AM

Micha_MX4 - well I just bought 2 of these items, you can however get the diff parts (items listed on instruction manuals) from Tower Hobbies. The Item I got was 39506 - Ball diff set (Pure Ten), but have put the instruction items below, and are in stock in Tower Hobbies

LA1 Diff Gear (in stock)
WBD04 Slipper Plate ZXR Ball Diff (in stock)
WBD05 Ball Differential Shaft ZX-RR (In stock)
WBD06 Ball Diff Tension Parts ZX-RR (not in Towers stock)
WBD07 Ball Diff Tension Spring (in stock)

I hope this helps.

What type diifs are yours? Are they origional ball diffs like mine with the washer/spacer springs or do you have the spring instead? If you have the spring in your diff my question is whats it like? Can you set it so its as smooth as an associated diff or is it just as rough and bad as mine?

39506 (Pure Ten) - It looks the same as the Lazer - not sure about the diff gear itself, but the rest is a match.

Lazerfan1 - LA59 Fr Hub Carrier(7 Deg) for the ZX/ZXR/ZXRR - well it looks like tower doesnt stock them, however I think I can get a pair over here. You will be looking at roughly 6 pounds (I know its expensive, but thats including postage to you.

It a double bank holiday weekend starting Friday and I will be back to my computer by tuesday. Im here all day today so keep them coming.

welshy40

04-08-2004, 03:57 AM

Lazerfan1 - almost forgot.

Lazer Gear Ratio's
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
13.03 12.30 11.65 11.07 10.54 10.06 9.63 9.23

25
8.86

I use for club a 10 Single geared on a 21/100 at the moment. Its qute quick, but will be gering up for events. I think however you will be using at least 2 teeth less than me on the pinions.

My usal for a 10 Double is 10 to 1,
For an 11 Double its 9 to 1
For a 12 Double around the 8 to 1

Hope this helps

welshy40

04-08-2004, 09:36 AM

YR4Dude - did you try the TRF parts on the rear of your Lazer?? Im curious if it was the same width? Please let me know.

alka1ine

04-10-2004, 05:09 AM

Hey guys, I just recently got involved again with my RC cars since I am in Orlando for school and they have a couple nice tracks(last one back home closed down 6+ years ago) and I whipped out my Lazer ZX-R and realized it was still missing a piece and inoperable at the moment. I did some searching online and stumbled on in here. I was surprised to see people still interested in the car, let alone actually finding workable parts for it and racing them competetively.

the main reason I haven't been able to use it is because 3 years ago or more I broke the rear bulkhead and even at that time the small hobbyshop near me said that stuff was discontinued. I almost got my friend whos dad owns a machine shop to make me one out of aluminum but I haven't been able to find the broken peices to have him replicate and I have just been too busy with school and such.

Where can I get a rear bulkhead and a bunch of other parts for it? I will want to race it but I would also need a few spare parts in case something accidentally breaks on me. I also would really like to know where you guys got those aluminum hub carriers and control arm brackets. I rebuilt a few things in the transmission but I forgot what exactly since it's been so long. I think I really only need a few little pieces to get it back up to par but I would like to upgrade the weak spots. I still need a body for it too... I just didn't want to spend the money on a $40 body before.

I am still a poor college student until January 2005 and probably will be broke a few months after that too so I can't afford to go buying all sorts of exotic parts for this thing, as much as I want too :(

I definately am glad I found this place though. From the 11 other pages I just read you guys really know what your talking about with this beast and I look forward to discussing some other things about it. I can't wait to drive this thing again, it was so much fun(except for that one time it sucked a stick into the front diff, haha)

Thanks
-Andrew-

Micha_MX4

04-10-2004, 03:46 PM

welchy:
I still have the original diffs with (probably) the first set off balls and plates in it.
I think I hav the coil spring to tension it, I'm not sure and check it tomorrow.

Micha

Micha_MX4

04-10-2004, 05:56 PM

I have tot repost this question:

on my ZX-RR chassis is a small plate in two posts... for what???

you can see it on the pics I postet on page 3...

Thanx,
Micha

alka1ine

04-10-2004, 10:03 PM

I took some pics. It's really dusty and dirty and I dont have any electronics in it anymore since I moved them to my old LXT so i had somethin to drive at least...

no bulkhead :(
http://developer10.com/~joshuagore/andrewg/pics/rccars/lazer3.jpg
http://developer10.com/~joshuagore/andrewg/pics/rccars/lazer2.jpg
http://developer10.com/~joshuagore/andrewg/pics/rccars/lazer4.jpg
I also need one of the bolts that go in by the front wheel here on the left. Mine has a screw on one side in place of it and it's really loose. Where would I get stuff like this?
http://developer10.com/~joshuagore/andrewg/pics/rccars/lazer1.jpg

Lazerfan1

04-10-2004, 11:22 PM

Alka1ine-Welcome back to the wonderful world of RC. Especially with with your Lazer ZX-R I do believe that I have the part the part that you need for your car in the rear.so that you can get your rear shock tower attached. One other thing that you might want to try so that you can get some spare parts for your car is to try e-bay when you go there go to Toy and Hobbies. Then lookin the section for radio controlled cars. put in the search for Lazer and you shall see what comes up from time to time. Also try Tower hobbies and put in a search for Lazer and you will see the body come up and many other Lazer essential parts that only tower has in stock. SO if you have the part numbers from your manual I will go thru my box af spare parts and see if I have what you may need. Good luck and let me know! My e-mail is Rcgeico@aol.com give me a chatback. Laterfrom Ken>>>>>>>>>>>..

alka1ine

04-11-2004, 12:33 AM

lazerfan1- Thanks! I have been checkin ebay recently but there are an extremely limited amount of parts that come through there and the same with tower hobbies. I might end up buying another car complete with spare parts eventually but I just have very little extra cash at the moment.

All I really want for the car is the aluminum A-arm mounts and hubs that a few of you guys have along with the rear bulkhead and a few of those specialty bolts for the wheel hubs. I left my box of parts at home so I'm missing my rear driveshafts and the stabilizer bars at the moment, I'm almost positive i don't have any little screws like that though. The part number for the rear bulkhead I really couldn't find, but I did see the number 120 describing it in the manual and it's in parts 'bag 6'. The listing of the discontinued parts on kyoshos site doesn't show it so I don't know that number...

-On a side note, I just noticed today that Tekin went out of business... :( They were my favorite speed control maker too. Oh well, I just hope this G12cIII lasts long enough, i bought it right before i stopped racing.

take care
-Andrew-

welshy40

04-11-2004, 12:59 PM

Andrew - The rear bulkhead is LA31 and Tekin are back in business. Also check out pages 8 through to 12, as there are a lot of items that you can still get.

Micha - I will reply on tuesday to your mails

welshy40

04-11-2004, 01:06 PM

Guys,

My shell from Razorgraphics is on its way. Look at the James picture. What do you think??

http://www.rc10b4.com/gallery/showmembers.php?si=&perpage=9&sort=2&cat=500&ppuser=

Micha_MX4

04-11-2004, 03:22 PM

f****in' beautiful!!

MIcha

alka1ine

04-11-2004, 04:48 PM

Lazerfan1 - My AIM screen name is 'alka1ine' if you use that at all. I will buy that bulkhead from you if you can find it. You live in the US right?

Welshy - I tried searching for that part number and I managed to find a listing of parts for the ZX-Sport but it says that number is this instead: 'KYOC4912 LA-31 RADIO PLATE MOUNT LZLRLS' I thought the lazer series used all the same part numbers? Unless they now call it the radio plate mount for some reason...
-that body is amazing too! :eek:

I also looked through pgs 8-11 a second time but it seems like the only parts listed are the longer driveshafts, rear hubs, and a few little things from Tower.

I'm just wondering if it's possible to get the aluminum mounts that hold the suspension pins anymore. If you can get some I will pay you for them. You can talk to me on AIM at 'alka1ine' if you want. And please don't sell your car! At least not until February 2005, because I could buy it then :)

thanks everyone
-Andrew-

alka1ine

04-11-2004, 04:58 PM

I also found this while searching the web...
http://rc-off.com/sozai/raji/zxr2.jpg
What is the one on the left? It seems to have a composite chassis or something instead of the graphite. It's got a weird shaped brace in the back too.

Micha_MX4

04-11-2004, 05:01 PM

maybe an optima mid?

Lazerfan1

04-11-2004, 09:53 PM

alka1ine- the car on the left is an actual Lazer ZX-Sport. I know because that is what my car started out as it is a composit chassi and let me tell you it is very flexiable and the wierd brace that you see on the back toward the rear is the brace that holds the mechicanical speed controll, old school let me tell you and when I bought the kit and built it it is as stock as they come. Yes just send me your address via e-mail at Rcgeico@aol.com and then I can send you the rear bulkhead for I live right here in Groton CT. Later man I will be waiting to here fron you!!!! Ken.......

welshy40

04-12-2004, 09:55 AM

alka1ine - I think LA31 is no longer available - Lazerfan 1 is probably your best hope.

Micha - Its a ZX-sport esc holder, its not meant for the ZXR. I noticed you have an optima part on your belt on page 3 as well.

Guys Im going to give up racing and am going to sell everything, due to needing money for a deposit on a flat.

I have almost 3 of everything (all in packets and new, including a few things which you wouldnt think of using).

Im selling the spares for three hundred pounds - it may sound a lot but I spent more, and you will never run out of spares for the rest of your life.

The car well Im tempted to keep it but if I was going to sell it (its a one off car with a prototype chassis,top deck,front mount, and slightly more efficient drive train) then I would sell it for three hundred pounds as well, after all it cost me a lot for the two new bodyshells to be sprayed, plus I have another blank one. But car and spares - all for five hundred. Also this is the car that had the first tub chassis (I designed the first for the Lazer with the help of fibre lyte), but I sold that about 5 years ago.

I am also talking to fibre lyte who are going to put my designs up on their web site, as I know you guys may want to buy the items that I have designed, so you dont have to go through me to get them.

What do you guys think?? If any one is from the UK, then if you want a regional BRCA carpet A finalist car then you wont be sorry.

alka1ine

04-12-2004, 10:20 AM

Welshy- I wish you didn't have to sell it so soon because I can't afford it right now :( Good luck in whatever you decide though.

I just was outbid in the last 10 seconds on a Lazer complete with a bunch of spare parts so I'm kinda mad right now cause I'm not sure when the next time one will come around again. It even had the aluminum parts I was looking for I think...

Lazerfan- I'm sending you my address now and just let me know what you want for it.

I am actually on spring break this week so I have been going through my RC stuff and it appears I am missing the rear driveshafts still, unless my parents find the old tacklebox back at my house. Would CVDs fit on the back? I have MIP shiny CVDs on a Kyosho Pro-X they appear to line up and might be a tad longer.

Take it easy guys.
-Andrew-

Lazerfan1

04-12-2004, 11:33 AM

Welshy Hey I can't believe that we as the Lazer Fanatics are going to loose such a milestone. :( It is people like you that keep up the R&D department for us and that keep the car alive. If I had the money right now *I wouldbuy everything that you had so the car would go to a good home and to someone who would take really good care of it! Especially since you just got those two bodies painted which I would love to get and proudly put on my car! Well I hope that you can win the lottery over there if they have one and then you won't have to sell everything!!!!
To Alka1ine. I will check my e-mail after I get home from work! I can't check my personal e-mail from work since it is a government account! Hey About the front and rear suspension mounts that are made out of alumin I think that I can get my own personal machinest to make me a set of those for you if he has the time. Rightnow he is making me a Tittianium chassi and topplate and a couple of alumin parts. Hey is also going to make me a chassi out of T6 alloy alumin and a top plate also just for piss and giggles and he is going to weigh both chassi and top plates just to see which is lighter! He was also contemplating on putting one of his chassis up on e-bay just to see if there is a market out there for his Idea and if it sells then he will make more!!!!!! If you want a chassi made of t-6 alloy alumin then let me know and I will ask him how much he wants. I'll talk to you later Ken..............

welshy40

04-13-2004, 04:07 AM

alka1ine and Lazerfan1 - dont get any alloy chassis / top deck or shock mounts, as the bend, plus the chance of getting radio glitches will be more prone due to the metal. Also the weight.

You can buy carbon fibre direct from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk, and if you specify the design then they will look for it.

I will send a picture of the front mount I used, and never broke one in 10 years. You specify that its in my design that they have done for me and they should be happy to make it for you - or just show the picture and say they made it for one of the Lazer guys in London.

Micha - www.towerhobbies.com is the place where you can find the king pins. I do not know the part number, so good hunting on the search fields.

welshy40

04-13-2004, 04:15 AM

alka1ine - what parts are you after, I can give you the part numbers, and where to get them from.

W5061 - normal driveshafts from Tower hobbies, type the number in and the number may change but the picture comes up with what you want.

W5063 - 3mm longer for the fronts, a must for this car.

The blue steering items on that list I put up on page 8 or 9, as this stops bump steer - this is a must as well.

If I manage to sell my car (which doesnt look like I will at the moment) I will still be available to pass on the knowledge to you guys.

alka1ine

04-13-2004, 04:58 AM

Hi Welshy, the only parts I really want are those aluminum bits you have. The wheel hubs and the hinge pin mounts are all I am really interested in, one of my rear pin mounts is chipped on the end and will probably break after a few races. I can still get arms and gear sets and stuff so that stuff should be fine. It appears the bulkhead I broke doesn't break too often so if it ever does break again I'll have to save it and get a copy made or something. I'll be getting the steering things you recommended soon.

I was searching for parts today and found the link below. I'm calling them later today to see if they still make those parts for the Lazer. They say there are 4 degree blocks for the rear and I'm guessing they are talking about the hubs I want. They don't list any for the front though. I think that rear deck support is that peice you were looking for Welshy. I'll have more information sometime tomorrow.
http://www.factoryworks.com/kyosho.htm

welshy40

04-13-2004, 05:12 AM

alka1ine - I think the part you mentioned is for the centre of the chassis - however if its the part I was after let me know, as I can still add it to the car. While were on the subject - the 3 degree is not very good down the straight, I found the standard 1 degree or evan zero degree was better. If they do still make these items let me know.

Did you manage to take a look at my car (the chassis and top deck)?

alka1ine

04-13-2004, 05:25 AM

In case I confused you, I meant I wanted the aluminum caster blocks like this pic you posted: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41255&stc=1

I'll be sure to let you know if they make the parts and if their company ever made the piece you wanted.

Yes I looked at your car. It's what I hope mine will be someday if I ever have enough time and money to pursue this hobby as much as I want. When I was 14 I had nothing better to do than stay at the track all day and race my cars and it's kind of dissapointing that I have responsibilities now :(

Lazerfan1

04-13-2004, 06:35 AM

Lazerfan1

04-13-2004, 07:02 AM

#5025 Lazer to Monster Truck kit $49.95
Aluminum Lazer Parts
#3803 Front Shock Tower 1 $13.95
#3805 Rear [3deg] Blocks pr. $19.95
#3808 Front Deck Support 1 $16.95
#3809 Rear Deck Support 1 $21.00
Hey I'm going to call the guy today and find out if these parts are in stock or not and if they are then I will get a couple of rear deck supports and send you one Welshy! OK I really hope that he has them! This is where I got my front and rear shock towers and my rear (3deg) a-arm blocks. Later for now. If not I still have my machiniest trying to make me one OK!
Alkal1ine.>>> Hey I will send out the rear deck support tommorrow in the mail and after you get it then you can pay me OK! I 'm just glad that I can help you get your lazer back up in running! Oh as for your rear drive shafts did you have the universials or the actual dogbones??? If you had the dogbone set up I can give you an extra dog bone until you get enough cash to get the rear universials also! As for the screws that go into the front hubs to hold your Knuckle arms I would recomend just getting a new set of Knuckle arms and then I'll see is my machiniest will make me a new set for you as extra incase you loose one. How dose that sound?? Let me know ok!

welshy40

04-13-2004, 08:37 AM

alka1ine - thats a 7.5 degree castor block, and was made out of Nylon. I doubt you will find these as they were rare when the Lazer was being made. The king pins are surrounded buy a bearing, taking the pressure away from the servo.

The best option is to buy the 7 degree plastic one, as the metal ones can cause more damage if you have a major smash. The plastic number is LA59, and the 7 degree hole is the one that you dont use. Its the other hole which is where my castor block is attached, using the 3mm longer driveshaft. For some daft reason they only put the degree on that one hole.

Lazerfan1 - when you call them, ask if they do the LA31 parts (the metal mount that I have put on this site a couple of times), or how much it will cost to make.

The screws you need are king pins and are at tower hobbies

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU537&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU535&P=7

Im not sure if this is the right one though.

I have just gone through my spares and worked out that I can sell them all for one thousand and fifty pounds, and then I can keep my car. Im tempted to Ebay them all separately, and make sure that I have a minimum requirement so I definately get the money I spent back (Im not after a profit, just the same back for what I paid). Here is what I have, and its all new and never been used.

Part Number Description

RW98 x 1 Rw Spur gear 98T
Z-K/39506 x 2 Ball Diff Complete Set – ZX/Pure Ten
Z-K/39655 x 1 Special Unicrank (Blue)
Z-K/96643 x 1 Shims 5 x 7 (0.1/0.2/0.3) x10 - Rare
Z-K/96644 x 2 Shims 8 x 10 (0.1/0.2/0.3) x10 - Rare
Z-K/LA01 x 4 Diff Case Gear/Ball Type
Z-K/LA04 x 1 Thrust Ball for Ball Diff.
Z-K/LA06 x 3 Rear Drive Hub Lazer ZX
Z-K/LA11 x 11 Drive Pulleys ZX/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA118 x 1 Hyper disk Plate - Rare
Z-K/LA119 x 1 Hyper clutch Thrust Set - Rare
Z-K/LA12 x 11 Rear Drive Belt (S) Lazer Series
Z-K/LA122 x 1 Lazer ZX-S Body set
Z-K/LA122 x 1 Lazer ZX-S Body Set Prof Painted
Z-K/LA13 x 5 Fr Drive Belt Lazer/EP Spi/TF3
Z-K/LA17 x 3 Carbon Fibre Plate Sets
Z-K/LA18 x 3 Motor Plate (L) ZX/ZXR/Sport
Z-K/LA19 x 4 Motor Plate (S) ZX/ZXR/Sport
Z-K/LA20 x 4 Sus Shafts ZX/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR - Rare
Z-K/LA21 x 1 King Pin(L) Inf10/ZX/ZXR/Sport
Z-K/LA22 x 3 Steering Pin Lazers/Super 10
Z-K/LA23 x 1 S.Saver Shaft Laz/EP Spi/Sup10
Z-K/LA26 x 3 Sus Arms Inf10/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA28 x 2 Hub Carrier (R) Inf10/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA31 x 3 Upper Deck Mount Set - Rare
Z-K/LA32 x 3 Front Axle Box - Rare
Z-K/LA33 x 3 Bulkhead (R) ZX/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA35 x 3 Gear Cover Lazer Series
Z-K/LA39 x 1 Please Use Z-K/96642 Shim set - Rare
Z-K/LA40 x 1 Shims 8mm Diameter - Rare
Z-K/LA55 x 3 Main Shaft Lazer ZXR
Z-K/LA59 x 3 Fr Hub Carrier (7 Deg) ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LAW02 x 1 Stabiliser Sport/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/OT16 x 3 Knuckle Arm
Z-K/OT19 x 2 Metal Drive Washer Hexagonal
Z-K/OT93 x 3 Bumper - Rare
Z-K/OTW10 x 3 Servo Saver ZXR/EP Spid/Sup10
Z-K/OTW11 x 1 Adjustable Turnbuckle 32mm
Z-K/OTW12 x 1 Adjustable Turnbuckle 40mm
Z-K/UM123 x 1 Hyper clutch Slipper Pad - Rare
Z-K/UM124 x 1 Hyper Clutch Tensioner Spring - Rare
Z-K/UM314 x 1 Spur Gear (86 Tooth) 48DP
Z-K/UMW01 x 4 Wing Stay/Body Mount Various
Z-K/UMW305 x 1 Hyper clutch Lightened Disk Plate - Rare
Z-K/UMW306 x 1 Transponder Holder Ultima Type R
Z-K/W5026 x 3 Wheel Narrow/Yellow Fr 2.2 4WD
Z-K/W5027 x 3 Wheel Yellow/F or R 2.2 4WD
Z-K/W5061 x 2 Uni Swing Shaft ZX/ZXR MkI & 2
Z-K/W5063 x 2 Uni Swing Shaft ZX/ZXR MkI & 2 - Rare
Z-K/WBD01 x 2 Ball Differential Shaft Plate Set - Rare
Z-K/WBD04 x 2 Slipper Plate ZXR Ball Diff
Z-K/WBD05 x 2 Ball Differential Shaft ZX-RR

Oh yeh, if your wondering why I have put rare alongside them, its down to being unavailable anywhere in Europe (thats a couple of items), the rest are unavailable any where in the world like the front gearboxes certain parts of the ball diff, the bumper (I have three new ones - and am aware they have been unavailable for five years), some shim sets, and LA31.

Lazerfan1

04-13-2004, 10:06 AM

Welshy40 this is Ken again and I have e-mailed Factoryworks and Later on this afternoon I will call them and find out if they have the parts or not. I'm all over like glue! I will have to go thru your list of parts and figure out the conversion. My wifes new friend she just made is from sweeden and she tells me that the conversion rate is $1.80 to equal one of your pounds. That is what she tells me because she is a professional singer and she complained to my wife that she only got paid $450.00 pounds and in american money that is equalivent to $810.00 in american money. After she did the conversion she was much happier. So after I go thru your list and tell you what I want then you can tell me what your price is ok. Then you give me your address to the uk and I will figure it out how to send you the money! By the way how do I send you money? In pounds or in american money???? :confused: :confused: Later for now....................Ken

welshy40

04-13-2004, 10:25 AM

Ken, the more I think of it the less I want to give up so I will have a good think over it, however I have the below with prices.

Part Number Description SRP(each)

RW98 x 1 Rw Spur gear 98T 3.00
Z-K/39506 x 2 Ball Diff Complete Set – ZX/Pure Ten 31.99
Z-K/39655 x 1 Special Unicrank (Blue) 7.00
Z-K/96643 x 1 Shims 5 x 7 (0.1/0.2/0.3) x10 - 4.50
Z-K/96644 x 2 Shims 8 x 10 (0.1/0.2/0.3) x10 - 4.50
Z-K/LA01 x 4 Diff Case Gear/Ball Type 2.99
Z-K/LA04 x 1 Thrust Ball for Ball Diff. 2.25
Z-K/LA06 x 3 Rear Drive Hub Lazer ZX 12.99
Z-K/LA11 x 21 Drive Pulleys ZX/ZXR/ZXRR 4.25
Z-K/LA118 x 1 Hyper disk Plate - 15.00
Z-K/LA119 x 1 Hyper clutch Thrust Set - 5.00
Z-K/LA12 x 11 Rear Drive Belt (S) Lazer Series 5.99
Z-K/LA122 x 1 Lazer ZX-S Body set - Rare 30.00
Z-K/LA122 x 1 Lazer ZX-S Body Set Prof Painted - 50.00
Z-K/LA13 x 5 Fr Drive Belt Lazer/EP Spi/TF3 7.25
Z-K/LA17 x 3 Carbon Fibre Plate Sets 11.99
Z-K/LA18 x 3 Motor Plate (L) ZX/ZXR/Sport 3.99
Z-K/LA19 x 4 Motor Plate (S) ZX/ZXR/Sport 1.99
Z-K/LA20 x 4 Sus Shafts ZX/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR - 2.99
Z-K/LA21 x 1 King Pin(L) Inf10/ZX/ZXR/Sport 3.25
Z-K/LA22 x 3 Steering Pin Lazers/Super 10 2.99
Z-K/LA23 x 1 S.Saver Shaft Laz/EP Spi/Sup10 3.99
Z-K/LA26 x 3 Sus Arms Inf10/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR 6.75
Z-K/LA28 x 2 Hub Carrier (R) Inf10/ZXR/ZXRR 2.75
Z-K/LA31 x 3 Upper Deck Mount Set - 7.99
Z-K/LA32 x 3 Front Axle Box - Rare 5.99
Z-K/LA33 x 3 Bulkhead (R) ZX/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR 3.99
Z-K/LA35 x 3 Gear Cover Lazer Series 2.75
Z-K/LA39 x 1 Please Use Z-K/96642 Shim set - 4.50
Z-K/LA40 x 1 Shims 8mm Diameter - 3.25
Z-K/LA55 x 3 Main Shaft Lazer ZXR 4.99
Z-K/LA59 x 3 Fr Hub Carrier (7 Deg) ZXR/ZXRR 3.99
Z-K/LAW02 x 1 Stabiliser Sport/ZXR/ZXRR 10.25
Z-K/OT16 x 3 Knuckle Arm 6.75
Z-K/OT19 x 2 Metal Drive Washer Hexagonal 3.99
Z-K/OT93 x 3 Bumper - Rare 4.99
Z-K/OTW10 x 3 Servo Saver ZXR/EP Spid/Sup10 4.99
Z-K/OTW11 x 1 Adjustable Turnbuckle 32mm 4.25
Z-K/OTW12 x 1 Adjustable Turnbuckle 40mm 3.99
Z-K/UM123 x 1 Hyper clutch Slipper Pad - 6.99
Z-K/UM124 x 1 Hyper Clutch Tensioner Spring - 4.99
Z-K/UM314 x 1 Spur Gear (86 Tooth) 48DP 3.25
Z-K/UMW01 x 4 Wing Stay/Body Mount Various 2.75
Z-K/UMW305 x 1 Hyper clutch Lightened Disk Plate - 20.00
Z-K/UMW306 x 1 Transponder Holder Ultima Type R 4.25
Z-K/W5026 x 3 Wheel Narrow/Yellow Fr 2.2 4WD 3.25
Z-K/W5027 x 3 Wheel Yellow/F or R 2.2 4WD 3.25
Z-K/W5061 x 2 Uni Swing Shaft ZX/ZXR MkI & 2 32.99
Z-K/W5063 x 2 Uni Swing Shaft ZX/ZXR MkI & 2 - 34.99
Z-K/WBD01 x 2 Ball Differential Shaft Plate Set - 27.50
Z-K/WBD04 x 2 Slipper Plate ZXR Ball Diff 5.00
Z-K/WBD05 x 2 Ball Differential Shaft ZX-RR 30.00

Obviously I would recommend you checking in the US shops first before you jump the gun, as you might come across some of these items over there - with exception of the hyperclutch.

Lazerfan1

04-13-2004, 12:35 PM

Welshy Hey 1 question is your price in pounds that you are listing or in American dollars??

ATTENTION TO ALL: I just got off thephone with factoryworks and they do not have any rear deck supports in stock. The only things that he has left are the front deck supports and the front and rear shock towers, ONLY!!!! So it looks like we are down to the last hope to see if my machinest will be able to mass produce these pieces for us. I just thought I would let everybody know that not to bother with Factoryworks OK!!!!!! Later for now.....

alka1ine

04-13-2004, 03:12 PM

The screws you need are king pins and are at tower hobbies

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU537&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU535&P=7

this helps me out a lot man. Thanks. I suppose I won't get the aluminum caster blocks even if I do find them because the last thing I want is more broken parts. I'm just concerned about the plastic parts breaking so i figured the more I could get in aluminum the better. Plus I could get the rears in aluminum and be able to use CVDs in back like that other guy did.

Lazerfan- I was just picking up the phone to call them. You sure they won't make them for us? I thought they made them theirselves and would still have the program in their machines(if they use that type). I'll ask my friend who owns a paintball company and makes stuff out of aluminum all day if it would be something he could do for a reasonable price, otherwise if your machinist can do it that would be great too. I just have the dogbones on my car. I have them at home though and my family will be sending the tackle box of stuff to me when they find it.

alka1ine

04-13-2004, 03:18 PM

Welshy- ok, i have one question about that steering part you have mentioned everyone should get. Do you just run without a servo saver on or what? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV282&P=7 It's been a while since I stripped out a servo so if it's not a big deal then I guess it doesn't matter. I probably don't have one on there now anyhow...

EDIT- Thanks again for the part Lazerfan!

Lazerfan1

04-13-2004, 03:48 PM

Alka1ine Hey this is what the guy told me all the parts that A&L said they made they didn't. They imported them from Hongkong from a company named modle hobbies. They ordered them way back when the Lazer was in its full glory and to be able to import them they had to buy 100 of each item. Factory works never made them they just distributed them. All he has left are hisfront and rear shock towers and front chassi support. It looks like we will have to relie on the Machinest, Later for now....

alka1ine

04-13-2004, 09:20 PM

I wonder if that Hong Kong company is still around... the parts aren't that big and I'm sure they give discounts for bulk orders too, I would say you could sell the rest on ebay and stuff like that. They had a bigger market there for the Lazer anyways so they probably still make them somewhere over there. For now I'll just be picking up those parts from tower and getting a body for it so I can race. If something major breaks, then I'll probably be in trouble though.

welshy40

04-14-2004, 04:52 AM

alka1ine - right this is what I use. I have a large Kimbrough servo saver on the servo and use the ZX steering brace plate on the blue parts. This gets rid of all bump steer, making your cars steering totally accurate where ever your car may be.

I do however use different post, but I havent a clue what they are from ( I found them whilst browsing through the stores of a model shop I used to work for and yes they also sponsered me) the posts had a C clip on the top so it never screwed into the top deck - there was roughly 3 to 4mm clearance.

I did however put the large plastic washer (part of the steering post parts - its about 4mm thick, it the thickest plastic washer on the steering post) on the bottom with a metal thin washer above it the the blue posts - I may have attached the pics somewhere.

Im also using a 9402 and boy is that a fast servo - with metal gears. I figure if its good for 1/8th then it should be better in 1/10th.

Castor blocks - the plastic has kevlar in the mix so it wont break easily - I havent broken one yet, and I have raced 3 events a week for ten years. The metal are not a good idea.

However the CVD's, well I wouldn't copy Micha's idea - good yes, but the rear hubs were specially made to fit - so I gather (I think anyway).

Anyway I have the front sections from a HPI, and the part numbers are below, but I havent got round to finding the dogbone sections, as I dont know which is the correct length. However the standard shafts are more than good as they are - the 3mm longer for the front and the standard for the rear.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=72012&FVPROFIL=++

You can fit the HPI or Kyosho hex fit with shaft to this part, so the standard wheels will still fit, or you could get the Yokomo (the new car) parts and make the Yokomo wheels fit - whatever turns you on.

I found the plastic items were better than alloy including the rear hubs and wishbones - with exception of the rear top deck mount, the centre top deck holders which I replaced with two posts as they are lighter and just as strong, and also give you more room on the chassis.

And the rear shock mount holder as this is the weakest point on the car due to the screw hole connecting it to the gearbox.

Oh and also the wishbone brackets. However I may have a solution to that problem soon via Hansells Fibre-Lyte, but thats not on my agenda at the moment, as the front shock mount and top deck development are still my priority.

Lazerfan1 - Pounds - however Im holding onto this until I know wheather im racing at this years euro's, if not then you guys can help yourselves, however if I have been entered then its a no go (it all happens when you least expect it)

Also YR4DUDE - have you tried out the rear hub part yet, in fact has any one tried it yet, as its supposed to make the rear more dialable with that design.??

alka1ine

04-14-2004, 06:13 AM

sorry if this sounds stupid but I've been working on my real car a lot during these years away from the hobby so when you say 'wishbone' you mean the arms right? I remember people used to call them A-arms for some reason, I forgot why. Then the pin that goes through the 2 little brackets and holds the arm on is the kingpin right?

welshy40

04-14-2004, 06:49 AM

The wishbones / suspension arms are the black things that the castor blocks or rear hubs are connected to. The A arms were the top part of the wishbones years back when they made plastic top parts, now we use tie rods instead of that.

The king pin (LA21 - the larger one and LA ?? - will find it soon - the smaller one)is the two hexagonal nuts that hold the steering arm onto the castor block (one at the top and one at the bottom - to keep the steering central on the castor block).

The pins that run through the wishbone and are held in place by the two metal brackets (which I gather you are after) are called LA20 suspension shafts - I havent a clue why, but thats their name. They are also the pins that run through the castor block and rear hub.

Not a daft question - keep them coming

Lazerfan1

04-14-2004, 01:59 PM

Alka1ine just to let you know that your parts are int the mail as of 12:45 today and the postmaster said that you should recieve them by friday OK!!! I hope that you will be up and running on saturday morning if not on Friday night!!! Enjoy :D Later....

alka1ine

04-14-2004, 10:53 PM

Hey thanks for all the information guys. It's odd that I seem to get the most information and help on this car when it's 12 years old and has one of the smallest followings.

I'll be racing something this weekend hopefully. I don't have a body for the Lazer yet so it will probably be my LXT truck but that's only if the piece that's cracked holds up. Most people here race gas as far as I know so who knows if I'll have a group to race with. I'm really curious to see how my old truck will hold up.

minijosh

04-15-2004, 12:51 AM

I might be picking up a Lazer. Does anyone know if the old lazer has the same shell as the newer versions? I don't remember which version I got.

welshy40

04-15-2004, 03:57 AM

minijosh - you need advice Im your man - I see your from the UK as well.

The bodyshell I have wont fit yours, as the cars a prototype at the mo, and the shell is for a car that wasnt sold in the UK.

However Dahms sells a shell to fit, try the search on google and you will see what I mean.

They are in the US though.

However I have found another shop www.penkarc.com which I think is in Greece, and they make a ZXR shell.

The ZX/ZXR/ZXRR MK1 and 2 shells all fit one another.

welshy40

04-15-2004, 04:04 AM

Right guys here goes.

I tried the rear hubs that YR4Dude was curious about - I think TR4 parts.

Any way, it makes the rear narrower, so not good, however its a better design than the origional. With a lot more potential than what is currently being used.

I have found an escape though, and using a HPI MIP CVD front section (I havent got the rear dogbone yet), and using the HPI/Kyosho hexagonal wheel nut with pin, as this moves the wheel out to the correct length, due to the Hex nut being almost twice the thickness as the origonal nut.

I need to find the correct rear length MIP and also get a few spacers to get rid of the movement - there is a 2 mm gap.

welshy40

04-15-2004, 06:47 AM

Guys - A company in the UK called Hansell Fibre-Lyte makes a lot of carbon fibre parts for the Lazer ZX / ZXR and other model cars as well.

All the Lazer ZXR parts (the front and rear shock mounts,
the servo mount,
the steering braces ZX (under my name) and ZXR,
the gearbox L brace ZX (under my name) and ZXR,
the Top deck ZX (prototype one and a few other designs under my name) and ZXR,
the chassis in origional form for the ZX/ZXR/ZXRR etc,
and the Tub chassis (under my name),
as well as my prototype chassis (under my name).

Also they are going to update the web page and put my designs up as well, so if you guys want them you can have them, as they ship worldwide - these guys made the first Lotus bicycle that won the Olympics for the British a few years back .

Im waiting for my new top deck and shock mount, as I have finally finished the design stage, and have a few top decks to throw away due to not being exactly correct.

The top deck - I have moved the servo further towards the belt, so have got rid of the far centre chassis post so the servo is not blocked, and can get to the position I have used (the servo mounts are associated, too get the servo as close to the belt as I could).

The hole that I got rid of dies not exist anymore, and have reshaped accordingly. I have also got rid of the steering post holes, as I use different posts, however if you guys do buy it - request that the put the holes in if you havent changed your steering posts to mine.

I have also put tie wrap slots in, in various positions, so you can have the power wires neat and tidy so they do not get in the way - a design which I know you will like.

I have also countersunk all the holes - but again if you dont want you make sure they know you do not want them countersunk.

I have also changed the centre holes/gaps in the centre of the deck, one of which I have designed for the use of the Kimbrough Large servo saver (which you will need to cut down to make fit), and associated balljoints.

The front mount, I think its strong enough, but have only redesigned as I broke the last prototype version. I dont know if its up to the job yet but time will tell. I have decided not to countersunk this as it does weaken the side sections.

However I will get them to post the design of the front mount that will not break which has a half circle top so you roll your car the momentum will roll it back onto its wheels. I did get me some good results in a decade so is worth buying - and I never broke one evan with the head on against a YZ10 - the YZ10 broke instead.

The rear shock mount is a ZXR as this is the best mount to have on the rear, and the only change I have done is countersunk the 4 screw holes as I use associated screws all over.

The servo plate has not been modified from the origional design with exception of now being carbon fibre.

The steering brace plate is the same design as the origonal ZX brace plate with exceptions of being made of carbon fibre.

The L brace plate is the same design as the origonal ZX L brace plate with exception of being made of carbon fibre.

The wishbone braces (the very front one and very rear one will be my next job, and will be just a flat carbon fibre plate, but you will have to use the below parts to lock the wishbone to LA20 wishbone poles/pivots - im not sure if this is the right size however, but the selection is small at tower Hobbies.

Basically the same principle to what they used on the Lazer ZX-S Evolution.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAB9&P=7

I hope this makes sense. When I have completed the two braces, I will try and sort the one behind the motor, as I have an idea, and then the front one may be the only trouble item, but then again I may find an innovative idea.

Feed back needed guys.

Lazerfan1

04-15-2004, 08:27 AM

Welshy hey you are a pioneer to the endless ideas for this car and I commend you with the Highest respect for keeping this car going and for giving us all hope that the Lazer will one day reclaim its once former glory as world champion of all 4 wheel drives!!!! The Lazer shall live on forever! But if it was not for a person like you I may have just given up on my Lazer a long time ago! As it stands I did buy the Yokomo MR4BC and I'll have to say that I'm disappointed with it just because it breaks almost everytime that I drive it. This sunday is the first time that I will be racing it on the Track in Einfield CT. since it is the offroad season kickoff! I can't wait and I'm very nervous that I will break and won't be able to race the rest of the day! WEll keep up the good work and keep pressing on I really need a new front gearbox that is both pieces have cracks in them and the bearings have a little wobble in them where they sit they are not tight anymore like they used to be. Once you get your new front bulkhead design I want one for my car ok! Thanks again for all of your hard work! It is appriciated :D :D :D Later fron Ken...........

welshy40

04-15-2004, 10:15 AM

Lazerfan1 - Ken I dont think I will be able to for a long time, however the wishbone holders are my next task (the things that hold the wishbones poles on the car).

However, seeing as you have a machinist why not take your gear box apart and get him to make you one.

However before you do that I will send you a picture of the rear section as I have cut it down so there is two sides (a left and a right).

It would be easier to make than a whole unit, but I suppose that could mean that it could ruin your gears due to there being a big gap, so may be a bad idea for you.

Let me know. I do think if he can machine it then you are laughing. the other alternative is buying one from me to get it machined, but that would be a last resort as I had planned on ebay for the rarest of items (including the brand new bumpers) as I should be able to get some good money on them.

But cheers for the compliments matey.

welshy40

04-15-2004, 10:22 AM

Guys,

These items may not make much sense yet, but when I finish what I have started then it may.

The rear hubs as I stated earlier work, however the rear end is too narrow. But with the blue Kyosho hex wheel nuts/lugs that pushes the rear wheels to the maximum limit, hence why the alloy ones - it took me a while to find these.

Then if you are using MIP then this could be the easier alternative, the holes in the right place for the rear, and the blue hex nuts would be perfect. However for the front the car would be too wide with the blue nuts, so these gold ones look the same thickness, but are also perfect for MIP. I still havent found the dogbones, but if any one knows where they are let me know. This is Kyoshos design and may be appropriate for a Kyosho car.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVL58&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA72&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVX83&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFS5&P=7

welshy40

04-16-2004, 07:43 AM

Guys - I made an error on the previous mail.

The top deck from fibre-Lyte - you cannot get the steering pole holes drilled, as it will split the top deck.

The solution is to get the Kyosho spider steering poles - OT120 (I cannot find them anywhere though).

The other alternative is to get some lazer steering poles and cut them to size.

Then use a countersunk associated screw with one of the countersunk Kyosho blue washers on top.

Cut it after you have put the correct washers and steering items on first, and made the correct mark for cutting.

This is an easy solution and will probably free up the steering some more.

Sorry if I have confused you, if I have let me know.

I will one day manage to post some pics to explain this - hopefully in a week or so.

welshy40

04-16-2004, 08:52 AM

Lazerfan1 - do you rekon this spider gear box would fit our cars? As the plates look sweet (and could be made form carbon fibre).

Lazerfan1

04-16-2004, 09:47 AM

Welshy40 Yes I recon that gearbox might work! It looks very sweet and it almost looks like the Rear deckplate mount is the same. With this design it should be more sturdier! Do you have a stock number for it? And dose towers still stock it? It would be awsome if it was made out of carbon fiber or fiberlite!!!! Let me know what you find out ok!!! :D

Lazerfan1

04-16-2004, 10:04 AM

Welshy40 I just checked with towers and these are the parts that I have found LXsm67 Special motor plate
Lxrb53 Low friction belts
lxsu09 carbon chassi saddle
LXsu10 Carbon chassi stick
That motor plate really looks strong and would be a great addition to this car with that gearbox! The chassis are not that bad looking either. Let me know what you think! Later Ken

welshy40

04-16-2004, 10:41 AM

Lazerfan1 - Ken - I think the rear gear box is KYOC4950 at tower as well as the front which is KYOC3631 and then the motor mount looks nice KYOC5806 and of course LXT823 this looks really nice, and wondering if its the same size as the ones on our layshaft, plus it does the one way as well. Now I said I couldnt find the steering poles im using, however I think this might be it - but unfortunately no piccys KYOC5637 .

The chassis is sweet - my question is does anyone know someone who owns one of these Spider cars EP version only??? We need to find out if the gearboxes work - or better still why not by the front and rear boxes Ken, and see for your self.

Lazerfan1

04-16-2004, 02:37 PM

Welshy40 Hey that is a great idea I think I will give it a try for the front> It would save me a whole lot of headaches of trying to buy another front orignial gearbox! Thanks for all the part numbers! Now if we can just find out if tower has the parts for the rear gearbox that would be great along with that motor plate.

Alkal1ine- Have you recieved your parts yet and If you did, are you up and running yet?? Good luck racing you LXT also. Are you racing in stock class or modified class??? If the modified class>do you have the hydrydrive unit or the standard slipperclutch? Whichever you have GOOD LUCK! nad remember most importantly "HAVE FUN!!!!!" No matter what. OK Later from Ken.............. :D

alka1ine

04-16-2004, 05:13 PM

Lazerfan- I will be checking the mail on the way out tonight. I'll be racing tomorrow I think if my friend doesn't need me to help him move. I'd be racing in stock I think because I have a stock motor in it but I don't know if they would let me since its got a drilled out chassis and everything. Otherwise I'll throw my modified motor in it and race with the big boys. :) It just has the standard slipper clutch in it, it's worked as good as I could hope so I don't think I'd really be any faster with the other clutch.

alka1ine

04-18-2004, 06:25 AM

Hey Welshy40, you said the chassis that have the batteries set farther back are worse handling....would it justify buying a whole new Lazer just for that reason? Now granted I can just keep or sell the other car and probably make back the difference but is it going to hinder the car in any way. If anything I thought haveing the weight farther up would be bad because my car used to do a lot of nose-dives. It evened out a bit with the wing though so I'm not sure what to think..

I found one with the forward battery slots for sale and wonder if I should try and buy it or not.

relayer

04-19-2004, 01:48 AM

Has anyone got a spare Lazer ZXR chassis and top deck that they want to sell? Doesn't matter if it's Carbon fibre or FRP - I'm rebuilding a 2nd-hand lazer at the moment and it really needs a new chassis / top deck - the previous owner has drilled holes in it to lighten it.

welshy40

04-19-2004, 03:35 AM

relayer - check out the fibre lyte site, they are most probably the best in the world - they helped make a bike for Lotus which won the olympics - enough said...

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

They ship world wide - I had them design the first tub chassis with the battery holes cut out, which you wont see - also the ZX parts are listed but under my name (James Instone), which you will need to request as the L brace/steering brace (all Lazer drivers need this item - its the best option)/servo mount plate, and of course the top deck. I have changed the rear mount with countersunk screw holes (I use associated screws)

However hold back on the top deck for a week or so, as I have almost completed development on a new top deck design. But you will need to modify your steering poles to make it work, as you will not be able to screw the poles into the top deck.

I also have a new design for the front shock mount, and this is the strongest design so far and the chance of breaking one is minimal (in fact in 10 years of racing I havent broken one yet). Picture will be added soon. If you want one its the half circle top section front shock mount.

I have also redesigned the chassis (its a zx chassis however), and this fits sweetly into the ZX-S bodyshell which tower still sells. Pictures are on this site between pages 8 to here. I have numerous ideas that work well, especilally the centre top deck holder (throw it out and replace with two alloy poles). Most of my info is in the pages mentioned. I also had to move the servo further in where the servo saver (large Kimbrough) almost touches the belt, otherwise the body wouldnt fit on the undertray. However using Associated servo mounts it fits sweetly, and the top deck middle mounts are middle and outer only as the servo takes up the space for the other.

alka1ine - keep what you have - all you need to do is buy another chassis/top deck and L brace.

If you are happy with the way the car works for you then great - however I found the ZX chassis worked better for me.

If you are jumping all the time then maybe the weight further back is better, however if you only have a couple of jumps it may be better to have the batteries further forwards, and this will give you a lot more steering (it can make the car twitchy - thats how I drive mine, the back follows the front, but the car can turn on a dime). But you have to alter the setup to accomodate this so it doesnt nose dive. Also are you using a roll bar??

Lazerfan1 - Ken, what about getting your front gearbox made out of titanium by your friend?? This would be better than the standard item. If the dirt doesnt get in the car much then why not cut the gearbox down to two sides like me?? I can sell you one of my new gearboxes if you need it - the price is what I paid when I bought it so it shouldnt be more than 10 or so dollars, and then you can use it to get the perfect copy.

I also think that the gearboxes for that touring car may be too wide for the chassis - however the rear box is whats got me interested. As if it does fit, a carbon fibre side set could be made up to fit it perfectly. However this may mean we cannot use the wishbones we already use.

alka1ine

04-19-2004, 03:44 AM

EDIT- beaten by Welshy :rolleyes:

Relayer- besides a stroke of luck on ebay I don't know where else to get it besides here http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/ I think they only do carbon fiber.

Welshy- I have seen the 3-4 tracks around Orlando and one is just gigantic and looks like people should be riding BMX bikes on it so I think I'll have to leave that one to the 1/8 nitro buggies, and the track furthest from my house seems to have decent sized jumps and nice dirt so I'll probably be racing there.

There is a big tabletop jump and a few other decent sized jumps so maybe it will be better with this chassis, I'm not sure. I remember until I was running the car with a wing it would always nosedive and once I bought a generic wing for it(still had no body) then it jumped a lot more level. I'll just keep an eye out and if I can pick up one of the other chassis designs then I'll probably do that.

The swaybars were some of the parts I had my mom send me the other day so I should have them this Tuesday. I had them off before because I wasn't sure if they really did anything and I just haven't put them back on.

It looks like I won't have a class to race in down here though, I'll just be racing for fun. I might be able to race my 2wd truck still though... Hardly anyone races off-road electric down here. Those pesky nitro cars are taking over everything now. :mad:

welshy40

04-19-2004, 06:54 AM

alka1ine - You've gotta be quick off the draw (hehe).

Well regarding you roll bar - it does make one hell of a difference.

I prefered the position where its touching the rear shock mount holder and the shock mount.

I had the silver screw on ball joints flush at the end of each side of the bar (its softest setting, and its noticable.)

Try it and you may have to alter your settings.

But I am surprised that your ZXR (mk2 I guess yours is) doesnt jump well.

I am guessing that you have it set so the front is lower than the rear.

You need to set it so the front is higher (not much)than the rear, and set so you get a bit of body roll - but not too soft.

So that when you hit the jump you car should fly through the air full throttle (buy let go of the throttle before you hit the ground, to save your drive train), and you also need your car to be set so the steering is responsive and the back will follow the front in any surface conditions.

And yes you got the fibre - lyte correct - most of the ZX stuff was supplied by me for them to copy, so I could get it from them, if need be. I would recommend getting two steering braces though as I have managed to snap one, but at the speed I was driving at it wasnt much of a surprise. The work these guys do for me is superb. They really know their stuff. My Lazer in a few weeks will hopefully get displayed on their site, so then you can see how much I have developed for this superb car.

alka1ine

04-19-2004, 04:56 PM

I see you have some parts up on ebay at the moment. I will be looking through what I have the next couple days and hopefully I can let you know what parts I want to buy from you, if your still selling those other parts still.

And yes I think I might have had the suspension too soft. I also just set the front and rear so the suspension arms are straight across. I'll mess around with raising the front up a bit and see what happens.

thanks.

welshy40

04-20-2004, 03:51 AM

alka1ine - I have always set the car up with the back driveshafts being level (or just fractionally under. The front level but with the front shocks not spaced as much, so when you accelarate the front is higher than the back. I hope this makes sense. Also you should experiment with the shock mount tie rod positioning as this can help as well on the way the car corners due to the camber movement ( i set it so the camber is less).

I have plenty of parts - however I am holding back on the LA32 front gearboxes and 31 rear shock mount holders and the front bumpers as I know I will make a lot more on these on ebay as they are not available anywhere in the world.

alka1ine

04-20-2004, 04:23 AM

hey, sounds good. I got my extra parts today and I had less than I thought. I pretty much just had an aluminum rear shock tower, the swaybars, the rear half of the front gearbox, and a few miscellaneous nuts and bolts. It looked over the car and replaced what I could but I noticed the wheel bearings are pretty worn and wobble more than I'd like... Are there still bearings I can get for them?

In your experience, what are the weakest parts? What were the most common parts that have broken? I'd like to find a couple spares of those specific items. I remember breaking the front piece of the front gearbox where the shock tower mounted so I'm going to have to find a spare just in case that happens again, and if the rear shock tower mount breaks again I will be making it out of aluminum or whatever nylon/plastics my friend has laying around his machine shop. Besides those are there any weak points I should know about?

Thanks a bunch!
-Andrew-

welshy40

04-20-2004, 05:21 AM

alka1ine - well first of all the best material for shock mounts is carbon fibre - they never break or bend. LA31 the upper deck mount is worth getting in alloy, you know the rear shock mount holder (what the shock mount screws into.). I would recommend getting an extra set of LA26 wishbones, evan tho they are reinforced with Kevlar they can eventually wear out and then break.

You wont need much spares.

LA32 the front gearbox may be worth getting, if you can find it and afford it, however if Lazerfan1 does what I have recommended, I will sell him a new front gearbox for the price listed so he can have it made out of Titanium or alloy or whatever so everyone will be able to get one for themselves, that is if he is up for it.

LA28 may be worth getting one as you never know, but I havent broken one yet.

LA35 gear cover, I had a few only because your gears are always worth protecting from dirt and dust so always worth having a spare.

UMW01 wing stay- you need at least one of these especially if you are a jumper, but I do use an alloy pole between both sides to strengthen it so it wont bend.

And obviously a LA13 front belt and a couple of LA12 rear belts plus enough LA11 drive pulleys to replace when your belts need replacing.

Also you need alloy wishone holders (the one at the front and rear of each gear box.

The rest like the shock mounts you can get through fibre lyte in the uk, as well as the chassis and steering plates etc.

I do however recommend getting the shock mount I use (which you guys will see when I post the picture) as its ridiculously strong. And also the blue steering item I previously mentioned to improve your cars handling and strengthen the steering.

However keep hold of the items you took off your car as you may need them.

alka1ine

04-20-2004, 02:40 PM

thanks for the info, it helps out a bunch. What about bearings for the wheels though? Should I just take one of the bearings to the local hobbie shop and match it up to ones they have there?

welshy40

04-21-2004, 04:40 AM

alka1ine - look up Tower or call them and get a bearing set from them. The Kysoho bearings are the best on the market so I would recommend you keeping with them.

alka1ine

04-21-2004, 02:50 PM

oh ok I wasn't sure if they still had the sets for the car or not.

One more question, what upper deck is on this car? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3188595379 It is shaped different than any I have seen. I would've bought the car but the guy sent me an email with his buy it now price and sent it to other people too and they beat me to it. :(

welshy40

04-22-2004, 03:26 AM

alka1ine - The car in that picture is a Lazer ZX (the very first of the Lazer's), and that was the origional top deck with the belt protectors on - however the top deck and belt protectors were not very good - I chucked that and so did the team.

Listen matey, do you have a ZXR yet or not?? If yes then wait as when I can post a picture of my cars top deck/chassis/front and rear shock towers, when you have seen I know you will want them. Save your money and buy the upgrades i have designed instead.

When I have finished the gearboxes will be the only items not changed.

alka1ine

04-22-2004, 08:19 AM

yeah I was mainly looking at another Lazer as just a backup or to make sure I have at least one spare of everything. I wanted that certain one because it was a nice price with a speed control and everything which I could use for one of my other cars. But yes, I'm definately interested in seeing your designs.

welshy40

04-22-2004, 08:32 AM

alka1ine - No probs, hopefully soon you will.

Lazerfan1

04-22-2004, 09:38 AM

Hey I can;t wait to see your design also! I'm very eagerly awaiting to see your latest and greatest design so that I will be able to have my machiniest make a Titanium chassi out of it! Here is a question that my machinest was asking me. If he was to make a couple of chassis extra, what would he be able to sell them for on e-bay? Since it is TT what would you start the bidding at? and do you think that it would sell? That iswhat he was asking me? What would you tell him???

welshy40

04-22-2004, 10:52 AM

Lazerfan1 - As I said earlier on, titanium is not a good product for chassis - yes its superb for planes, however I think it will be heavier and there could also be a possibility of snapping the chassis - Titanium doesnt flex - it snaps, and also on planes it expands when hot.

Carbon fibre is the strongest material, evan stronger than titanium on the surface and it has the option of flexing if the chance of a serious smash happens, and the other benefit is how light it is.

Durango make a metal chassis, however they only do tubs, not flat chassis and they are alloy not titanium.

Titanium would be in the hundreds, so would be worth more than the car. I can honestly say no you wont be able to sell them.

The titanium screw sets snap on a regular basis on the Lazer (I know as I have had to drill the dam things out) and have snapped a few tie rods so dont make the chassis out of Titanium as you will snap it. Also the chance of shorting out your cells is far greater than on a carbon fibre chassis. Its metal!!

Lazerfan1

04-22-2004, 11:09 AM

Thanks man I will tell my machinest as he is hell bent on doing this project and producing more than one of these chassis! His ides was to produce them due to him having a 4x8 sheet of TT and a Lazerjet watercutting maching at his disposial as soon as it gets fixed in the next two weeks. He was going to put the design into the cad computer and produce them that way. So I'll let hem know. Say when will we as customers for fiberlite be able to buy your new chassi design???? and how much will it cost? I want one. Also the gearbox that you have on your car where do I get one of those complete and If I buy your clutch system will it work on my chassi that I curently have? I know too many question! Sorry but I really want these parts and one other question could you send me a close up picture of how you lightened you front gearbox? so that I may do the same? PLEASE????

welshy40

04-22-2004, 11:41 AM

Lazerfan1 - Well as soon as I get the top deck (roughly 15 Pounds, but not certain) and front mount (roughly 9 pounds, but not certain) and the chassis (roughly 50 pounds, but not certain), and I am happy with it then I will get the item numbers and put them on this site. However you have confused me a bit relating to what you said about the gearbox. You wrote

Also the gearbox that you have on your car where do I get one of those complete.

Please explain as you have lost me big time.

If you want one gearbox to get your friend to CAD it and then make some out of alloy or titanium or whatever I will be more than happy to sell you one of mine for the price that I bought it for, seeing as you can help everyone with a lazer (well it will cost a bit from you, but well worth the money if in alloy).

I will take the front gearbox apart when I have time and take some pictures for you. You need to have a very sharp scalpal (thats what I use all the time), as knives just aren't up for the job. If you are going to do this I would recommend passing it to your friend when you have cut everything off so he can CAD it as well, so you can have the full gearbox or the lightened gearbox. It would give it some more strength where its needed.

The Hyperclutch is 55 pounds I believe. It will fit the Lazer ZX/ZXR/ZXRR/Mk1 and 2 without modifying anything - its a perfect fit. Its available from Ripmax - well they have one or two in stock, so you can buy it through me. You can also buy the 2wd slipper pads from Tower (I listed them) and the slipper pad as well for the 2wd, so you can use Kimbrough spur gears.

Ok??

alka1ine

04-22-2004, 01:04 PM

Lazerfan- If he has the waterjet machine I would think it could cut carbon fiber too but I'm not certain on that since I've only seen my friend use metal with his but I'll be asking him a few questions about what he would make it out of and how he would do it.

Welshy- I think Lazerfan just meant he wanted a gearbox like yours because you said previously that you had a modified one that was one piece or something and not the two pieces that it originally is.

Lazerfan1

04-22-2004, 01:29 PM

Welshy 40 I'm sorry that I confused you but sometimes when I set down to type these thoughts out I get a bit jumbled and the words do not come out right but I was talking about the rear gearbox on yours since it is not a solid two piece gearbox like on mine and alka1ine's. It looks like yours is two pieces with the alumin spacers in between the gears. Since yours is a one of a kind and constently being modified. Also I was wondering what is the thickness of the Fiberlight chassi and parts that you have. I may be scrapping the idea of the Titanium chassi and seeing if I can just buy a 4x4 sheet of fiberlite and have my buddy just cad out all the parts and use the waterjet lazer cutting machine to make me my parts. Also would this be a good idea to make some prototyp gearboxes out of (Derlin) or would it not be a good idea? Tha machine shop had a bunch of derlin cube block laying around and the guys said that it is a blast to work with and form things,. Do you think it would be strong enough to handle the gears and drivetrain? Let me know what you think about this idea. I'm finding out that this machne shop has a bunch more stuff other than just metal. Later.........

welshy40

04-23-2004, 04:25 AM

Lazerfan1 - well the thickness of the carbon fibre is 3mm.

Gearboxes out of Delrin - listen if you can I rekon you should design it like the ZX-S. It has a bottom section like made out of plastic and then the carbon fibre - in fact the KX1 is very similar. If you could design something like that and manage to put some mounting holes for the carbon fibre sides for the rear gearbox then great. delrin is a very strong material, the TC3'0' prototype has delrin shock mounts, and is very strong.

You must be looking at another gearbox - maybe Chris's as he has attached the pictures of his rear zx-s gearbox - two carbon fibre sides and three or four silver posts. I have tried to make this work, but dont have the one way and special bearings used. Pity. However the front gear box (the rear of that) is just the left and right of it as I have cut out the centre section, and the diff is visible. That is the item that I would like you guys to make out of metal, as this will strengthen the front so much more.

Tower hobbies sell 70 percent of lazer parts. Listed below. Including diff/Layshaft gears and belts

They sell LA1,4,11,12,13,17,23,26,35
OT19, OTW10
UMW01
W5026,5027, 5061,5063
39655
WBD04,05
96643,44
39506

I hope this helps.

alka1ine

04-26-2004, 03:03 AM

Welshy- Do you have another set of those carbon fiber LA-17 plate sets that you have on ebay? I'm going to bid on it but not more than $15 or so. Is it even worth it to change the rear brace, I know the steering one really helps so should I just buy that seperately?

Also, I just recently bought a second Lazer ZX and it doesn't look like it has a slipper on it, just a metal looking thing on the spur gear. I'll know when I get it in a few days but I can't really tell what it was from the picture on ebay. If it doesn't have a slipper won't it break belts or stip out gear teeth if it got stuck against something with the wheels spinning?

Thanks.

welshy40

04-26-2004, 03:58 AM

alka1ine - yes I have more, and the price should be on one of the last 2 pages. You have to include postage on top of it though.

The Zx comes with a slipper, but if you do not have one on this car I have a second hand one. If you want to buy let me know.

In fact guys you have an opportunity to buy up all my stuff, as I have made my mind up to sell all my spares (in case you hadnt already realised), and rather than go through ebay I would rather sell to you lot.

Dont forget the more you buy the cheaper the postage will be.

Im am also happy with my top deck and front shock mount (my newest ZX-S copy)so in the near future it will be on the fibre lyte site - however if you want them just let them know it was the newest design for the top deck and front mount that James Instone designed, and hopefully they should find it.

I will post a picture of the top deck and a different front shock mount (not the ZX-S copy) which would be better suited for you guys, its so strong I havent broken one yet. This one is the half circle top front mount that I had fibre lyte make for me years back and isnt a new design (dont make a mistake in ordering the wrong one), just state it has a half circle top section.

alka1ine

04-26-2004, 04:45 AM

Well I will try to look through your list of parts in the next few days and decide what I want, I am extending my student loans so I have a bit more spending money and can actually eat some quality food for a change :) I'm sure I'll buy a few things from you but I'm working on a final project this week for school and I'll be pretty busy. I'll try and let you know what I need by Thursday.

And are you saying your newest design of the front shock tower isn't the best? You said you were happy with it but we should order your old one. I'll probably contact fibre-lyte in the next month about a few pieces. What about your different lower chassis design, the narrower one? Are they selling that under your name too?

welshy40

04-26-2004, 05:14 AM

alka1ine - Im saying that the new mount for the front is better but I havent tested it yet. The half circle one is the best as if you roll the car ends back on its wheels again due to the semi circle top of it. Also it is so strong that it can withstand a lot more punishment than any other shock mount you can think of. The only reason I have had the new mount made is that is the only way I can get the ZX-S bodyshell to fit properly without cutting of the very front nose piece. Im trying to make it look like the ZX-S

Yes if you mention the new chassis design that I designed - my name (the last one I bought) then they shoud be able to find it easily. I will try and get them labeled as Lazer ZXRS parts so the you guys shouldnt have a problem finding anything.

I will try to post the pictures tomorrow if I remember.

welshy40

04-27-2004, 05:22 AM

Guys - what do you think of this then?? The top deck is finished, and am happy with it. The shock mount I have used for years and have never broke one yet - this is the strongest and if you roll the mount will correct it back onto its wheels.

alka1ine

04-27-2004, 07:16 AM

wow thats some nice stuff! I'll definately have to pick those little bits up.

One question I've had though is, with the increased strength of the front shock tower won't it be even easier to break the front gearbox housing that it screws into? Do you have rienforcement there too?

Lazerfan1

04-27-2004, 07:26 AM

Hey Welshy40 I have to comend you for such enginuity and such a beautiful design I can't wait till Fiberlite gets them onto production. Are you going to have them labled as ZXR Or ZXS parts??? I'm waiting to get them!!!! Thanks and keep up the great work!! Say what do you really think of the Kyosho Twin cap Pro shocks that I have and I just see that the Evolution Ultima ST GP truck has the Gold titianium steel coated shock shafts that should help with the smoothness of the the shock Right??? What do you think? After I get these what setup of oil and shock pistion should I run in the front and the rear and what way would be the best for the rough track that I run on? To build the shock with a bladder Associated style of build them from the bottom Bladderless Losi style?? Also do you know if the mip Blue shock shaft seals will work in these shocks??? If you could also help me with an entirely different setup for my chassi suited for very rough track conditions that both the gas and the electric buggies run on.??? Thanks for your time man! Later from Ken.........

welshy40

04-27-2004, 07:46 AM

alka1ine - the strength of the tower itself is all you need worry about as if its a weak design the gearbox will break as well.

I havent broken one (I used this shock tower when I collided head on at full speed into a YZ10, and the only damage was a scratch on the front bumper - the YZ10 had a snapped front wishbone, which is hard to believe, and a broken front shock tower, and bent driveshaft.)

I use allen key screws at the front (not self tapper screws that come in the kit), and this is a perfect fit.

I have never broken the rear section of the front gearbox - in case you never realised I have cut away the centre section of it, so its not an issue for me, however if you do crash a lot just leave the front gearbox as is and dont cut anything away - then it'll be fine.

But I suppose its down to not using self tappers any where on my car, which tends to bed in the plastic better - they cannot come loose when driving (well not with me anyway).

The top deck is different in case you hadnt noticed - the steering poles have no where to be screwed into.

Well its easy to rectify, just dremel or hacksaw a section off until its the correct length (preferably with the blue steering parts).

Or if the part I listed earlier is available and is the correct one (as no picture was available), get them, as all you will need to do is use a circlip to hold it all together.

Also you will need to replace the centre top deck mount with poles, like on mine, as I have designed it so the servo can be moved further into the centre of the chassis to make the weight distribution more central. I mean you can if you like, as your chassis's will be different from mine, and you have more options available to you.

I evan use the rear centre hole on the top deck, not for screwing into the rear top deck mount, but use an allen key screw from below (through the plastic mount) and attach my alloy aerial mount on the top deck, as on the chassis is not a very good place for the receiver and aerial. It also means that no aerial wire is touching the chassis, and all of the aerial is in the air - longer/bigger radius for the air waves, and less chance of glitching.

Its more tunable and space saving, I evan came up with the idea to put tie wrap hole/slots on it to attach the wires to and below the top deck instead of the usual mess you get.

I hope I make sense, as sometimes I jump from point to point too quickly.

welshy40

04-27-2004, 09:41 AM

Lazerfan1 - do you rekon you could have your friend make a front gearbox casing out of alloy??

The reason Im asking is I have yet another idea.

This time cut out the rear like mine, then on the front section cut out the centre section but not the sides and shock mount/pivot pins brace section, then when made from an alloy you could get a piece of bodyshell and cover the front diff gear, so you are strengthening and lightening as well. Does this sound daft??

Im thinking of keeping a few items of my spares like belts and pulleys, and maybe one set of wishbones. The rest can go, and if you can do the alloy front gear box then hey prest the car wont need replacement parts.

Lazerfan1

04-27-2004, 11:13 AM

Hey Welshy40 will ask my machinest to try and make the front gearbox and then I will ask him to cut out the sections that you mentioned, it is a great idea that you have and I will jump at the chance to see if this guy can make my parts and if he dose then I will post a picture of it on my web page and see if this is what you like. OK then I will have him make a few more so you guys can have them also. It is a great idea about the lexan covers! :D .... Later

welshy40

04-27-2004, 11:31 AM

Lazerfan1 - above somewhere is the top deck and front mount I was on about - is this more your cup of tea (that means would you use this design).?

The design is almost perfect - I did however need to file away about 1mm from the front hole (where the servo sits underneath) to get free flowing movement from the servo saver.

Lazerfan1

04-27-2004, 02:13 PM

Yes the above front shock tower and top brace are what I'm waiting to buy from fiberlite! so how is the chassi coming along? I think that you said you were designing a new chassi. Am I correct or did I get it confused with the top deck and shock tower that you were designing? Well wichever it is I still want to buy what you have designed! Keep up the good work. :D :D Hopefully one day yourdesign will help the Lazer regain its 4-wheel drive world title!!!! Other than Losi. It would even be good to here that Yokomo or even Schumacker even get the 4wheel drive Title just once over Losi Don't you think???? Until you drive your Lazer to the world title and regain it for Kyosho Keep up with the great work OK!!!! LAter

welshy40

04-28-2004, 03:27 AM

Lazerfan1 - Well I have already designed a new chassis, and at the moment quite happy with it, but it means that your setup will change a bit. Never the less the top deck is my proudest creation so far.

My next task is the pivot pin holders.wishbone braces or whatevr you call them.

As for you its creating the front gearbox out of alloy. Once thats been done, then maybe designing a new type of rear gear box, like the ZX-S. Your friend could make an alloy bottom section with holes to mount and screw the carbon designed parts to it. One job at a time though. Besides I might be able to get the rear made out of carbon Fibre, time will tell.

Then the only items that we need worry about are wishbones, front and rear hubs/catsor blocks and driveshafts.

welshy40

04-28-2004, 11:30 AM

Lazerfan1 - check this out - its a mid front gearbox, and is bascically what my idea is - hopefully I will win this item on ebay and see if it will fit - if yes then I may send it to you to see if you can have it made from alloy.

Lazerfan1

04-28-2004, 11:48 AM

:D If you win this bid and get it I really hope that it dose fit then I could get it made out of alumin!!! God luck!!!! I can't wait to hear the results!! :D

welshy40

04-29-2004, 03:45 AM

Lazerfan1 - Im gutted - I lost it, but the idea could work on what we have, just take the centre section away and use the shock mount as the brace for the gearbox. Does that sound good?? If so then I rekon you should give your uncut gearbox to your friend and explain that when he makes one up that you just require the sides and very front section for the wishbone/pivot braces and obviously all the screw holes, and maybe a small slot/groove cut down the front section at the very top so we can put a clear plastic bit in to protect the diff in front of the shock mount. Make sense??

welshy40

04-29-2004, 04:19 AM

Guys - check this site out, and before you tell me I know its in Japanese.

There is a chap called Koba and his car is similar to mine, he has done the front and rear shock towers and the chassis, but it just fits the shell. The chassis however isnt a really good job, but am impressed with the mounts - and yes he hasnt put many holes in the ball joint sections on both, so if he can sort me out with a copy of both I will add the relevant holes.

His servo isnt as close to the belt as mine, so I guess he has problems fitting the shell as the servo corner is pushing the undertray away from the car.

His front castor blocks are out by 3mm so is using the longer shafts at the front.

And his aerial - well I use the middle rear hole of the top deck, but he has the right idea.

Im impressed, Im not the only one who has thought this idea.

Check it out on this link.
http://rc-off.com/new.html

Lazerfan1

04-29-2004, 04:36 AM

Welshy hey this sounds like a great idea!!! I'll toss the idea design his way and see what he can do! Later.......

alka1ine

04-29-2004, 05:00 AM

That ZXS is so cool :)
http://rc-off.com/zxs.html

Where can I get these different rims that all of them have? Mine are old and 2 are cracked a bit.

They have some pics of the Kyosho Pro-x though and I forgot how much I like mine. http://rc-off.com/prox.html I wish I could find the topshaft for it where the spur goes on cause it bent and now the tranny makes a wierd noise. The SST tranny in this car is just amazing. It was sooo quiet and smooth. It did awesome at the track too but now it's just sitting here cause I can't find parts for it anymore.

welshy40

04-29-2004, 05:23 AM

alka1ine - the ZX-S is ok, but Chris has a better one.

The Pro-x was the worst 2wd Kyosho car made, well in europe anyway, all the Team threw theirs in the bin after the first national, and drove for associated afterwards. However, the buggy thread on this forum may have the answer, as several of them have the same car.

ZXR wheels - Tower hobbies, type in W5026 and W5027 and they should appear, if not get the TR15 inferno white or black wheels.

alka1ine

04-29-2004, 01:59 PM

thanks!

and I never said the Pro-X was the best for competition but i just loved the transmission in it. I also loved how steep the front suspension arms where because my other car would break all the time when i hit a corner or something, they didnt push back any before snapping. It probably has more to do with the materials though since my other car was a Tamiya truck. hahaha

welshy40

04-30-2004, 04:38 AM

Guys - Right here goes, the below are the part numbers for the items you lots have been after from Fibre-Lyte. I havent attached all as I dont have any pictures so here goes on the items I havent attached.

The new chassis to fit ZXS shell and undertray .ZXSJI1

The new front shock mount ZXS lookalike. ZXSJI3

The origional and first ZX/ZXR tub chassis which you guys made for me from a photocopy of my origonal ZX chassis (with 6 battery holes). ZX/RJI6

welshy40

04-30-2004, 04:40 AM

welshy40

04-30-2004, 04:46 AM

And More...

welshy40

05-01-2004, 01:39 PM

Guys,

In case you were wondering I copied the email to Fibre Lyte, re the chassis, so dont get too confused. Also we are on a bank holiday on monday, so all shops are shut.

alka1ine

05-01-2004, 02:40 PM

wow thanks Welshy, I've been really busy this week but I want to order some of these parts soon and will have a list of stuff I want from you soon too. You said for both of those top deck mounts we would need to have steering poles like yours that don't attach to the top deck right?

I'm not sure how much it costs for a mold but i will ask my friend since he is in Orlando this week for paintball stuff. I'm going to see about the front gearbox and the rear bulkhead and maybe a few other pieces. If I can pay for the cost of the mold I can just have them keep it there and make parts as we need them, I'm sure they could kick out plenty of parts after the mold is made. If it costs too much for me to handle getting the mold made I'll let you guys know, maybe we could pool together enough between us to get it made and you could just let me know when you need parts.

pUs

05-02-2004, 03:30 AM

Really nice thread! :) I recently bought a 2nd hand ZX-S (original version). I don't think the guy who sold it had any idea of what kind of car he really sold. It has never been run outdoors and quite frankly I do not see any signs of it having been ran at all, it's in beautiful condition.

However I don't know where to get front and rear belts. I assume they must be different to the belts on the ZX/ZXR, because of the angles, belt-roller in the rear etc. Do any of you guys know where to get belts specifically for the ZXS?

welshy40

05-02-2004, 06:49 AM

pUs - I will supply you with a japanese shops email address, they may be able to get them for you. I would also recommend getting all the chassis parts and flat bits made copied in carbon fibre, as if you ever break them you will have a supplyer who can sort you out with another.

pUs

05-02-2004, 07:34 PM

Thanks, that would be awesome really! I've thought about the damper mounts as well, fibre-lyte has made custom parts for me before and I guess it would be easy for them to simply copy the ones that are currently on my car. Especially the front mount don't seem that durable (at least judging from its looks), it's really thin at a couple of places.

welshy40

05-04-2004, 03:36 AM

PUs - where you from, fibre lyte are in the UK - like me, and Im guessing so are you or am I thick as two short planks.

The Japanese shop email address is champ_international@yahoo.co.jp and they take ages to reply so dont worry if you hear nothing for a week or more.

These guys also sell the white wheel sets for the ZX-S, but the stock is in short supply.

I do have a ZX-S top deck (carbon fibre) and a front mount in GRP if you are interested. Unused and in the packets still, plus a few other items that I managed to get.

Guys Im contemplating designing the rear gearbox, out of carbon Fibre, but in two pieces and no centre so will be very much like the ZX-S. Im going to send to Fibre Lyte and see if they can 3D it so the bearing mouldings can be done as well, and if yes then thats going to great. Then the complex item - the front gearbox, which myself and Lazerfan1 will work on. I have a few ideas, but getting them to work is another...

alka1ine - you can use the steering poles you have, but you may find that you need to cut a couple of mm's off the top, or take a gamble and buy that steering pole set that I listed (I said I thought it may be the correct item but there was no picture on TH's site)

Keep us updated about the mold, its an interesting idea, and you could make some money due to only a couple of people worldwide who actually have spares and new ones at that.

Im doing the wishbone pivot / braces next, and then the rear gearbox, so if that goes well then just the front to complete the project.

welshy40

05-04-2004, 08:02 AM

Guys - here is something from a Japanese designer, what do you think - the KX1 made for off road, in fact other than the awful steering he did quite a good job.

Lazerfan1

05-04-2004, 12:33 PM

Welshy40 hey it is a great idea I wonder if I thought of it first or was it this guys idea? It is a great concept that you and I talked about along time ago and we both kind of shot the idea down and this guy brought my ideas to life and I;m wondering if how this design will really handle the track??? Time will tell it would be great to see this as the Next generation LAZER don't you think? After it is tried and tested then I will probly want one to race and go and kick some Losi *** all aroun the track. Well later for now................ :cool:

adam lancia

05-04-2004, 11:01 PM

what is awful about the steering: i can't tell from the picture? thanks,

adam

welshy40

05-05-2004, 02:41 AM

Lazerfan1 - its not bad, and apparantly has been used at the Yatabe Arena a few times. Its a KX1 but the steering lets it down (well the design - lack of). But I think stick with the Lazer and maybe soon the prototype they are working on will be released and then wahey.

Adam - download it onto your desktop and zoom in on the steering - the servo is central and the steering is just wrong. The servo should be on the side like the ZX/R/S. The steering needs to be butch and needs bearings on, this is neither.

relayer

05-05-2004, 03:47 AM

I've already asked on the KXone thread if anyone has one for sale!

It needs some work, but the idea is sound.

welshy40

05-05-2004, 05:44 AM

relayer - yup sound, but for no spares being available due to Tower not being able to sell them easily. I could be wrong, but try finding a good supply of spares. And in europe its evan harder to find them.

pUs

05-05-2004, 07:23 AM

welshy40

05-05-2004, 08:00 AM

pUs - your going to have to wait, as a Team Kyosho driver from Japan has sent me some detailed CAD designs for the ZX/R so I can make some shock mounts front and rear that duplicate the ZX-S.

I have forwarded to fibre-lyte and when happy with the product the price will be given by fibre-lyte (im not making any money from this - they are).

My design is close but I havent had a chance to test it. The first one I used snapped, so wasnt up to the job, hence why i havent mentioned it much. It will get some track time soon.

It takes time for me to develop the pieces, the top deck and half circle shock mount and new chassis (plus tub chassis) have taken me a lot of time to develop and test. Now I want to do the pivot/wishbone braces before I sort out the mounts, but it should be a month or two before the ZX-S front and rear mounts are completed.

Then all I need to work on is the rear gear box, then the front all out of carbon fibre as well.

Have you any pictures of your car for us to see??

Lazerfan1

05-05-2004, 03:59 PM

Welshy40 hey I just got back in touch with my machinest mate friend and He has started to make parts and I was asking him about t front gearbox and the reargearbox. He said he will try my ideas but the only setback is rightnow their is a civialian company in his shop and they are putting up plastic all over the place in order to scrape all the lead paint off the walls he said the shop will be closed for the next two weeks. I asked him about making the front bumper also and he said it was not a problem. Did you not say that the front bumper was a rare part also? If he makes these parts such as the front gearbox and the bumper out of alumin what type of price do you think he could charge for these items???? He wants to know> for he may just make many of them and sell them on e-bay or individually to all of us who are in contact on this board! Well we shall find out in the next two weeks what he is able to do when his machine shop opens back up! Later to all!!............... :D

welshy40

05-06-2004, 03:41 AM

Lazerfan1 - right here goes Ken.

1. the front bumper - yes its rare, what about making loads out of delrin?? Wasnt it you who said that they had a few blocks lying around?? Thats the best option. Its a better material, strong and lighter.

2. The rear gear box - hold that idea at the moment, hopefully by the end of the year I would have come up with a carbon fibre idea and tested it. I have a few ideas at the moment, and as always Fibre Lyte are working closely with me.

3. The front gear box - if it was you that said you had delrin, my idea would be to get the front gear box made out of that (as many as your friend can make out of what he has). Then you can have spares and sell the rest. I have new ones of these if needed.

Once your friend has made one, and you can tell me how long it will take him to make each gearbox and how many can be made from the block, and how much the block costs, then I can work out a cost for your friend to sell on.

Delrin is a really strong and light material, I would put it close to the kevlar wishbone material on our cars, and thats why I rekon would be a better and cheaper alternative. The TC3'0' designer and maker are now using this, as its a cheaper alternative, and stronger material.

Also if you need a new front gearbox I can send you on, then you can send me a delrin one back when done.

4. I would also say that if you have a 100t spur gear get him to make some new ones, as I know you wont have a problem selling them worldwide. I have one if needed, but it isnt new - but in good condition.

5. Oh yes one more thing, the rear hubs, well can your friend make me a delrin set, but identical design from the bottom up, but instead of the usual 6 holes for the ball joint to screw into the side, I would like the same design as the below link, but with three top holes instead of two, however the ZX/ZXR rear hub is slightly further out than the below item, which means the wheelbase is narrower if I use the below, and I cant have that. So the ZX/ZXR design has to be copied to get the width the same - I hope I make sense, basically copying the zxr one, but changing the top to look like the attached link. (or copy the link but move the bearing holes slightly further out to give the correct width.)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXXA72&P=7

You could also copy the 7 degree castor blocks as well, so then spares will always be available when required through your friend.

Does this sound good??

relayer

05-06-2004, 05:40 AM

Welshy40-

Here in Australia, KXone spares are just as easy to get as Lazer spares - i.e "non-existant" ;)

Can you tell me about that tub chassis - I have a ZXR Mark 2 which I'm trying to get running again and I really need a new chassis and top deck.
Having a tub chassis means not having to run an undertray :)

How high are the sides of the tub? I assume it would be that stiff that it would be possible to make a much slimmer top deck?

You dont have a picture of one, do you?

welshy40

05-06-2004, 06:01 AM

relayer - well if you have a MK2 then when you decide on the tub chassi you will need to buy the ZX L brace plate and the ZX/ZXR Mk1 top deck as well. I would recommend if you want narrower having the new prototype design I have included on this page (at the top), otherwise the standard version (also at the top) is the best alternative.

If you go for the new top deck one you will need to modify the steering poles (cut them down a bit and use a screw to bolt the mechanism on), but the blue steering items I mentioned a few pages earlier stops bump steer would be a good investment.

The tub chassis sides - well no pictures - sorry, but the sides are very much like the origional RC10 gold tub, and the ZXR shell fits on perfectly and the reason the sides are so high was due to a marshal standing on my ZX and breaking my ESC.

So it protects the internals well. But be aware that there are 6 battery slots on the bottom of the chassis (just like the standard chassis), as I required the centre of gravity being as low as possible, but no damage ever occured to my batteries in all the years I used that chassis, and also it always stayed clean inside evan in 2 inches of rain on the ground (I took pole position in the wet by 4 seconds, and when the first best time was taken the race surface was totally dry - the chassis was really good)

I think I may have evan had a servo saver slot cut out as well for the Large Kimbrough servo saver, as thats the only servo saver I would recommend with this car.

It looks bulky, but I have had 5th in Britain in the indoor championships, which is faster than outdoors, and beaten Masami with this chassis as well in the rain - he evan came over to find out what my car was, nice bloke. the car is best set low - I know it sounds stupid but its balance is far better when the weight is lower to the deck (evan on the bumpyest surfaces), and jumps well too.

However there is a company (which is posted in between pages 10 to 16) that makes the ZXR bodyshell (? euros) and Undertray (5 euros), and will ship to you from Greece (thats where they are based), and are the only shop in the world that makes this bodyshell still.

welshy40

05-06-2004, 09:26 AM

Guys,

If any one of you is after a Lazer ZXR then the below link is for Ebay in the US, and its not under kyosho lazer, and the car looks very much like it used to belong to a team driver, as the rear shocks are on the front with an extra long front mount. It doesnt have a body or wheels but its worth more than 40 dollars. Let me know if you get it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=3191821289&rd=1

mjohnston39

05-06-2004, 06:33 PM

Not mine but looks good.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166867

Mike.

adam lancia

05-06-2004, 11:13 PM

that looks promising!

relayer

05-06-2004, 11:20 PM

That looks more than promising :D

I know it's been asked on the other thread but what wheels are those?

How about a detailed description of what parts/modification/effort is required to make that wonder?

relayer

05-06-2004, 11:22 PM

Silly me, I just realised you said it wasn't yours!

welshy40

05-07-2004, 02:38 AM

relayer - duh!! those wheels are from the TR15 petrol 1/10th car. You can also get them in white as well - Tower Hobbies sells them. Im very surprised you didnt know that.

mjohnston39 - yup not a bad car, but the KX1 car I posted is better. But the spares for that car are harder to get than for the Lazer.

alka1ine

05-07-2004, 04:47 AM

Hey everyone. I haven't been around much and probably won't be because of school. I thought I would have more free time but now I don't think that's possible. Odds are I'll be just driving my car occasionally and not doing any major racing. I managed to make a trip the post office and pick up the second lazer i bought though, it was here on monday but i just got it now... It looks prety much identical to this one but without the different steering parts up front. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=3191174857&rd=1
Mine also has a black plastic cover that totally encases the belt which I've never seen before. It also has those aluminum front hubs so it looks like I won't have to worry about stipped ones anymore. It's also got the super old school body that is all square looking and it mounts differently, won't mount to my zx with the 'c' shaped front shockmount. And what's with the suspension arms on these ones, they have more plastic in between them, like webbing.

Welshy- I haven't taken the Lazer that I just got apart yet but it's rear diff is a lot more smooth and my other cars diff is kind of gritty. I rebuilt the front and rear diffs on my old lazer right before I stopped using it and I think I remember hearing it was normal for it to be gritty like that.

I'll be taking the best parts of each car and making my main car out of the better parts. Well I'll try and keep up to date with this thread and maybe in 2 months I'll have a break, I know next month is going to be crazy at school (accelerated computer animation program).

take care guys.

alka1ine

05-07-2004, 04:52 AM

P.S.- It costs quite a bit for my friend to make a mold. $1000 and above usually for a piece like the front gearbox. If they were to do it it would be awesome quality and would always be there to make more for as long as I live since he's my best friend. It could be used to make parts out of any type of plastic too.

If there were enough people and they wanted to pay for it then it might be feasable but at the moment he is in the middle of releasing a new paintball gun and I don't want to ask for too much of his time. Plus I am making 3d animations for him along with my 40+ hour schooling and have to edit my brothers wedding video this month too :)

Later all...

welshy40

05-07-2004, 05:09 AM

alka1ine - that is the origional Lazer (like mine was/is) and the car came as standard with metal knuckle arms and a belt cover (I took that off as it wasnt efficient with it on). The bodyshell is the origional as well (the ZX shell) so you now own a piece of heritage as it was built in 1988, just after the Otima Mid was discontinued.

The wishbones are stronger - so keep them as they are (kevlar reinforced and you wont break them). The steering is the same as all the Lazer series (with exception of the Lazer ZX-S, so I dont know what you have on your other lazer, but it isnt a kyosho item.

The diffs are most probably gear diffs, as thats what the car came with. Have a look at the drive cups on the diff, if there is an allen key screw on it then its a gear diff.

The ball diffs are gritty, and thats down to kyosho not making the thrust balls and plates correctly (its the worst design ever). But you can set it up so its smooth, as long as its not over tightened.

Hope this helps

relayer

05-07-2004, 09:08 AM

I found those wheels at Tower but :eek: they're expensive! Think I'll stick to regular wheels.

Still looking for a chassis and top deck - can't afford and don't want the carbon version- not worth it considering how little use my Lazer gets - the stock chassis is all I'm looking for.

Speaking of diffs, mine have always been very smooth - just replace the stock thrust balls and main balls with carbide ones.

Usually the rear diff feels worse as it is often tighter plus more load etc but you could always ditch it altogether.

If you buy LA01 & OT005 you get the housings for the gear diff and the outdrives. Now all you need is an Option House 1-way diff for the Optima Mid - take the one way bearing and the axles out of the Optima housingand put it into the Lazer housing. Presto! You now have one-ways for both the front and rear (no brakes though).

welshy40

05-07-2004, 10:33 AM

relayer - what are the bearing part numbers for the one ways, that is a really good idea, considering if the one way packs up you can weld it to the layshaft and use the bearings as a one way. Clever.

If you look at the new prices of the Kyosho chassis for the Lazer you will find it cheaper to buy from Hansells. The best alternative is the tub, as you will never need to replace it ever, and then you will no longer need an undertray to worry about and your bodyshell lasts for ages.

relayer

05-07-2004, 08:19 PM

The part number for the Optima Mid 1-way diff is W-0106.

Don't think you'll have much luck finding one though :( -I was lucky, got a new one off ebay for $12US :)

Running a one-way in the rear makes the car more tunable for high or low grip tracks.

On high grip you have one-ways working front and rear, and when you accelerate out of corners you have the diff working up front, but no diff action in the rear - so the car really comes out of the turns well- lots of acceleration and steering.

If it is slippery, you just lock up the standard one-way on the layshaft, that gives you only front wheel drive on deceleration and braking - very stable entering turns on loose, rough tracks.

What car is a Lazer Alpha? There are some parts for it at Tower like gearbox housings etc - wonder if they fit the normal Lazers?

alka1ine

05-07-2004, 11:54 PM

Welshy- that's not the exact car I got but mine was just like it. I'm not sure what that guy has on the steering up front there. I noticed on the one I got that the metal steering bar up front where the steering turnbuckles is perfectly straight across whereas my Lazer(MK2 i'm guessing) is bent towards the back of the car on the ends slightly. Is there any advantage to either one?

Two more questions:

1. Are the gear diffs better? I have the ball diffs in my first car and it really wansn't too gritty just not what I was used to.

2. Is my top deck from the MK2 better than the older one? The older one seems to have more space for the servo to move. The previous owner put a metal pin instead of the plastic support in the middle of it and it feels kind of week on the sides compared to my MK2. It doesn't have a pin opposite the servo supporting the deck at all so maybe that's why it's extra weak. There are no supports on that side from the back mount up to the steering pin.

...And about this one way thing for the rear, wouldn't having no brakes at all be bad?

relayer

05-08-2004, 04:57 AM

And about this one way thing for the rear, wouldn't having no brakes at all be bad?

It really depends on the track. On technical tracks with lots of 180 and 90 degree turns it can be a problem, but it works very well on more open layouts. :D

I never really use brakes in 4wd anyway - 4wd's aren't as easy to control when the rear gets loose under braking, not like 2wd.

I just had a thought about the chassis - Has anyone thought of making one with a little kick-up on the front end?, about 5-10 degrees should do it.

It worked well on the YZ10 and that Lazer Evo in Japan used a seperate plate which bolted to the front of the chassis.

I know it would make a BIG difference to the handling! The only problem I see is where the top deck bolts to the gearbox housing - the top deck won't sit flat. I don't think thats a problem, put a o-ring between the housing and the top deck, then use countersunk screws to screw it down. It will also loosen the front belt a bit - again no problem there :)

welshy40

05-08-2004, 06:13 AM

alka1ine - Right it sounds to me that the ZXR steering brace plate is the wrong way around on the mk 2. The angled ends should be pointing towards the front bumper, so it needs to be taken off and put on that way. However the brace isnt as good as the ZX one. The straight one you fcan get rid of all bumpsteer, but the ZXR Mk2 you cant easily.

Gear diffs are better on carpet and high bite tracks (super high bite). When I finished in the top 5 in the indoor British Championships I prefered the gear diffs, as the ball wouldnt respond quick enough for the corners. The Ball diffs are better out doors.

The ZX two piec top deck isnt very good. a solid one piec like the mk 2 is better, however the mk2 may be too long for the ZX, as they increase the length and moved the motor/top deck mount closer to the motor to move the weight further back (bad design by the way). However Fibre-lyte does both designs, so easily available. However post a picture so I can see what you are talking about.

The metal posts are better than the centre plastic support, as more room is given when using the poles. I have two in the middle of the top deck, and no other any where else (I dont evan have steering poles screwed into the top deck either.

The one way bearings are a good idea, however you will only need one set of bearings and for the front diff if your one way dies, so when you do reverse or brake the rear wheels will lock up or go backwards. I nevr evr use brake, as I set my car up to handle more speed tha what I actually use, so the car is very stable so I just cruise and never brake.

I dont agree with the one way in the rear making the car more tunable, you will only notice the one way at the front as its how the car can corner quicker due to the 60/40 drive. The diff on high grip will be working on the rear, after all its a one way, which doesnt mean the diff isnt working, as it is otherwise you would have no tires after on race on the rear. Unless you have instructions that say otherwise, as I know Kyosho have some daft ideas sometimes.

The alpha is a cheapo plastic crap Lazer RTR and have to say the only things you can use are the belts and belt gears. Nothing else fits.

I find the 4wd rear end is easier to dial than 2wd, if set up correctly the back should be loose and will always follow the front no matter what surface you are on. This increases steering and traction and speed in and out of corners.

Yes the ZX-S kick up was good, however we dont need it as the wishbones have kick up if you use the top holes on the front gearbox and does just the same thing as kick up on the chassis.

relayer

05-08-2004, 08:19 PM

I dont agree with the one way in the rear making the car more tunable, you will only notice the one way at the front as its how the car can corner quicker due to the 60/40 drive. The diff on high grip will be working on the rear, after all its a one way, which doesnt mean the diff isnt working, as it is otherwise you would have no tires after on race on the rear. Unless you have instructions that say otherwise, as I know Kyosho have some daft ideas sometimes.

Have you tried it? You don't seem to understand how it works.

Firstly the car doesn't have a 60/40 split drive. As the diff pulleys and layshaft pulleys are the same front and rear - the car ALWAYS has a 50/50 drive split except for braking/decelleration when ALL the drive/braking is done by the rear wheels.

With a 1-way diff in the rear, NO wheels are driving under braking - in effect the transmission is isolated from the wheels completely - hence no brakes.

ONLY by changing the pulley sizes can you adjust a 4wds underdrive/overdrive feature - like the XXX4.

And with the one-way in the rear you have NO DIFF action as it replaces the ENTIRE differential with a single one-way bearing and two output axles - the axles are both tied into the same one-way bearing so they can't rotate at different speeds - so no diff action. Perhaps you haven't seen what the Mid Optima one-way diff looks like.

Yes it does wear the tyres quicker because there is a wheel scrub difference when cornering between inside and outside tyres, a small price to pay for the benefits.

Yes the ZX-S kick up was good, however we dont need it as the wishbones have kick up if you use the top holes on the front gearbox and does just the same thing as kick up on the chassis.

Maybe in the UK you dont need it but here in Oz it's definately required - I mentioned before on the B4 site - having the chassis kicked up allows the car to glide better over bumps - thats why 2wds don't use flat chassis'.

The atrocious front end handling of the Lazer in this country is why the car became unpopular, and most guys that raced it competatively quickly realised it was due to the arms having a nice kick-up but the chassis being flat.

All the best handling 4wds here over the years (XX4 and YZ10) have had either a kick-up on the chassis or moulded into the front bulkhead /diff housing.

alka1ine

05-10-2004, 03:31 AM

I don't see what a molded in kick-up in the front would do differently than just having the kickup on the arms. It wouldn't change the position of the suspension any either. It might have some more clearance in the front so if you hit something like a bigger sized rock it would just skip over it instead of just banging into it and breaking something which I've done on other kinds of cars a bunch. I really can't think of any advantages of having the chassis angled in the front like that unless it changed the suspension layout somehow.

welshy40

05-10-2004, 04:47 AM

relayer - no I haven't, however a 50/50 drive system I have with out a one way and with and found it very hard to drive. A 60/40 drive train is the best way for this car - it accelartates better and corners better than a 50/50. Also the diff pulleys and layshaft pulleys on my car are the same front and rear (obviously the layshaft pulleys are smaller than the diff pulleys). Also my car when I brake the only wheels that lock are the rear, and also if I had reverse the only wheels that would work are the rear. I can understand that the your transmission is isolated and why you have no brakes.

I know what a mid diff looks like, however this approach doesnt work on high grip tracks with no diff on the rear. In fact I would go as far as saying you are actually loosing rear end grip because of this.

I did find that on the ruffest of tracks (and yes not many jumps) that the lazer was in a class of its own, evan better than the YZ10 and CAT with ease.

The tracks had huge craters and dust/dirt with ruts everywhere, but I had no problems with the way the chassis was, and proved it plenty of times.

Yes I agree the Lazer isnt the best of jumpers, but once you have set the thing up correctly the car is just as good as the rest. My car always lands on the rears first. Mind you it isnt too difficult to adapt your driving style to improve the cars performance.

I also found that the car worked better with no spacers in the front shocks at all, yes it looked to silly, but it worked best on jumps with the full length.

The kick up on the chassis I agree could help, however the bumper design is like that probably due to having no kick up. Maybe you should raise the front.

If you have the wishbones in the highest position and the shocks with full movement and the back set lower than the front it does work well. I have never damaged my chassis at all, and I have done some superb jumps. If your car is nose diving its the setup that needs developing. The Lazer has made a lot of Worlds A finals, and those tracks are serioulsy hard to get into the A.

alka1ine - Relayer does have a point, it means that you could drive flat out into the jumps and the way the chassis bottoms out is different from the way the lazer hits it.

Mind you i found that if you spend less time in the air the quicker you are than the airbourne people. I have proven that one as well.

However I dont really think kick up would make much of a difference, its noticeable I suppose, but its the driver that makes the car, not the car that makes the driver.

I tried the YZ10 at an event after the worlds on the same track and found the kick up no better than a flat chassis. I always have the front set higher than the rear and once you have found the correct line for the jumps the car chassis doesnt hit at the front, more like the middle of the chassis.

alka1ine

05-10-2004, 08:07 PM

Yeah i didn't mean it wouldn't help in a small way but if the front isn't hitting then I don't see any difference besides possibly aerodynamics? I haven't had the front of mine hit as far as I know while going up some pretty big jumps at full speed. With the arms angled how they are on the top hole then the only difference between chassis kickup and the Lazer would be the extra bits of materials up front that would be showing....if that makes any sense to you.

welshy40

05-11-2004, 03:57 AM

alka1ine - right this is what I do. I have the front arms on the top hole on the front of the front gear box, with the brace left and right angled sides pointing downwards.

On the rear the front brace (the one behind the motor) the smaller flat surface is what is attached to the chassis, and the rear back brace, has the angled sides pointing downwards (opposite from what is on the instruction manual.) This give an angle to the rear wishbones as well, and improves the handling of the car. It is noticeable.

Yes the front sometimes does hit, however its normally the bumper, however nine out of ten its the middle of the car bottoming out as you find the front has hit and lifted off, while the back is going through the same preceedure, hence why the middle of the car bottoms out. You must notice that, I mean gravity is playing a big part on your car on the jumps from beggining to end.

I cant think of it being more aerodynamic, but I suppose it could be, but do you reckon it would be noticeable?? Im not so sure on that one.

The only difference between the kick up and the angled wishbones we have on our lazers is just the chassis. If you look at the Associated cars you will notice the wishbones are angled the same as the kick up. With the Lazer the kick up is the wishbones.

It is noticeable if you are running the standard bottom hole and change to the top hole. The car seems to handle bumps more precisely, I have not really got an answer, I just know it works better.

Yes the gearbox and bumper are extra weight I suppose, and maybe with kick up it would be a little lighter, however it cannot be done due to the size of the front diff.

Yes the Lazer ZX-S was done that way and I have to say it was and still is a work of art and performs well - however they made a few mistakes with that car, one being the rear hubs. They are 2mm shorter on each side, and the width of the car is narrower which loses the stabability of the rear. The rear hubs are TF4 hubs and I have measured and tried to make it work, but it doesnt.

relayer

05-11-2004, 04:03 AM

It might have some more clearance in the front so if you hit something like a bigger sized rock it would just skip over it instead of just banging into it and breaking something which I've done on other kinds of cars a bunch

You answered your own question ;)

Think about running the chassis 15mm off the ground on a Lazer and on a 2wd. If you hit a rut that sticks up 25mm then the bumper/front section of chassis on the Lazer will slam into it - The angled front end of a 2wd allows it to slide over the rut more smoothly.

The other problem with having all the kick up in the arms is that you lose ride height. When using kickup (either type) the rear-most point of the front arm is lower than the front-most point of the arm. On a car with chassis kickup - the chassis is angled to match the arms, so no ground clearance is lost - on the Lazer, the chassis doesn't match the arms so there is a big "low-spot" in the centre of the car.

Look at the front of a 2wd and the front of the Lazer side by side with the suspension arms level - You will immediately see the difference, the low "chunk" of chassis/gearbox from the Lazer sticking closer to the ground - that's what causes the problem. If you don't think it's a problem then you haven't raced on rough enough tracks ;)

The car is fine over jumps - it needs the kick up to aid rough track handling.

however a 50/50 drive system I have with out a one way and with and found it very hard to drive. A 60/40 drive train is the best way for this car - it accelartates better and corners better than a 50/50.

:confused: You've lost me I'm afraid! You can't have a 60/40 drive split using the standard pulleys...UNLESS you are using the centre diff from the original ZX Lazer - Do you use that?

That centre diff WOULD make the car much easier to drive as under acceleration, more drive is tranferred to the front wheels - so the rear end is less likely to break traction plus the front will steer more.

But this is only achievable if you are using that ZX cente diff.

however this approach doesnt work on high grip tracks with no diff on the rear. In fact I would go as far as saying you are actually loosing rear end grip because of this.

That's the idea! On high grip tracks 4wds have too much rear grip - so using a one-way in the rear allows the car to get a little more steering response.

I'll contradict that by saying on very loose tracks - a one-way in the rear will usually IMPROVE power-on traction. When you accelerate hard on low grip, bumpy tracks, a diff will usually have one side more heavily loaded than the other (because of track grip inconsistancies, bumps etc) - so one wheel will unload a little quicker (a little bit of diff action occuring) and because of that the car will become a little squirrely (loose) and will slide around a little on acceleration.

With a one-way this rarely happens because regardless of track conditions - the wheels must be driven at the same speed - there's no unloading of the diff because there isn't a diff!

The Lazer has made a lot of Worlds A finals, and those tracks are serioulsy hard to get into the A.

Sorry, that's no the case. Since the release of the Lazer in 1989 they have never had more than 2 cars in the A-Main at the Worlds, with the exception of 91 and 95.

In 91 they had roughly half the field, but at that time they were being used by the Losi guys (no XX4) and the track (Detroit) was perfectly suited to them as it was a very soft, high grip track.

In 95 I think they had 3 or 4 cars but again, the Yatabe track in Japan was a super-smooth, high grip track.

Since 95 no Lazers have made the Worlds A-Main - I will check further into this and get some hard results.

Welshy - if your Lazer is that much better than YZ10s and Cats etc - then either you know something about the car that no-one else in the world has worked out.. ;) ..or those guys running YZ10s don't know how to set up cars!

Actually, Yokomo have generally always been not-too-competative in the UK, so it's probably not a fair comparison.

I might email Fibrelite and see if they can make me a kicked up Lazer chassis :)

welshy40

05-11-2004, 07:25 AM

relayer - what you are saying does have a flaw. When you are driving your vehicle the back always goes lower at the back, meaning the front will be fractionally higher (unless you raise the back deliberatley). Yes I do agree the bumper does on occasion take a pounding, but also the middle of the chassis as well, in fact more than the front. And the 2wd front end also has the same problem, but I suppose it doesnt dig in due to the angle.

I cant say that I have lost any ride height with the angled wishbones front or rear - I mean no one drives it on full height anywhere, as it wouldnt handle at all. The clearance with the angled wishbones is very high, however you have a good point and yes the gearbox does stick out.

I have raced on some seriously rough tracks - several looking like they were on mars and the moon - rough with big pot holes and a mix of surfaces. I found the Lazer went best on those surfaces, and better than the Yokomo. I did one event where I qualified 10th in the A mains with the Yokomo and chose to use the Lazer in the final. I finished 4th, and everyone said I should have stuck with it as it was more stable on the rough track (better than any other car at the event).

However its mainly down to the individual, and how its set up. The Lazer works well with my style of driving, and I like to overgear, and drive tight lines flat out, with major over steer. That means I like the back end loose, but dont let that lose you, as I found a setup where the back followed the front always, so no loss of the back end. Mind you I could throw the car from anywhere on the track and it would go where I pointed it no matter what surface I was on. The origional problem I had was jumps, but since I moved the cells on the chassis it made the car more stable.

The standard unit is 60/40 - read the instructions as it plainly says its a 60/40 drivetrain - however maybe I made a mistake - maybe the 50/50 without a one way was diabolical, as I will never drive a 4wd without a one way. I use a hydra drive unit slipper clutch but the ZX third diff was just like a slipper for me. To be honest I didnt like the ZX system.

However I find that I get major steering and the rear never breaks traction and the accelartation does look like the front is pulling more - and also explains why Im so much quicker off the start. 60/40 does seem right somehow.

I have tried the 50/50 RPM unit (I think its RPM) and didnt like it - I couldnt get around corners as quick as I wanted to, and accelaration was slower.

I can understand the one way rear diff being better on low grip tracks - as what you are saying and it possibly gives you more steering, however on high grip I cannot see it being beneficial. My main pleasure now is carpet racing buggies, and have made the top 5 in the UK in 4wd, 2wd I when I last drove made 11th.

Now I found that the Lazer was better with no spacing in the shocks (shock horror!!) on carpet and so that meant full travel, and also major pack on the shocks with a relatively soft spring setting with heavy oils. The car could turn on a dime at any speed from any point on the track, and was so simple to drive that all you had to do was point it. Also it worked best with a lot of body roll - evan I cant explain it, maybe you can.

Regarding the worlds - who cares if only one or two made it, it proves my point that if it made the A it is definatley a good design, after all the Lazer has been in several world A finals - which means a lot.

I just found the YZ10 was too butch, and too stable I couldnt make it twitchy enough - in fact it wasnt as good as i had hoped. Mind you it was a superb car, just did not suit my style of driving. I raced on grass, and yes I won with it but I didnt enjoy driving it. Its just I like to enjoy racing not really bothered about being sponsered. I also found that it dug in when landing off jumps and on one occassion was stuck in the ground by the front bumper.

Ellis Stafford won the Euros with a Lazer as well, in fact on a rather bumpy and awful track surface, and was informed by them that the car worked brilliantly on that surface. Ellis was in a league of his own as he was a lap ahead of every one else at that event, evan Craig Drescher couldnt keep up, and thats saying something.

welshy40

05-11-2004, 08:20 AM

Guys, hot off the press, kyosho are using a shaft drive off roader prototype next weekend in Japan for the first time. Pictures will hopefully appear shortly from me, that is if they send them.

Also the other prototype they are currently using, pictures are to follow as well - more close up and hopefully with a lot more info.

Right I have been sent these pictures, which might interest Lazerfan1, and I have asked if they could supply me with a rear gearbox (a whole unit), and will let you know the answer when I get one.

welshy40

05-11-2004, 08:25 AM

And more.

welshy40

05-11-2004, 08:36 AM

And more..

welshy40

05-11-2004, 08:39 AM

And more...

welshy40

05-11-2004, 08:54 AM

nd more....

relayer

05-12-2004, 03:29 AM

what you are saying does have a flaw. When you are driving your vehicle the back always goes lower at the back, meaning the front will be fractionally higher

That has nothing to do with what I was talking about! Plus it is also wrong - The idea behind anti-squat is to prevent the rear end from dipping so much under acceleration, and in fact with some cars (the old RC10 Graphite) it was the opposite, under acceleration you would see ther rear end lift slightly!

And the 2wd front end also has the same problem, but I suppose it doesnt dig in due to the angle.

You've got it ;) The angled kick-up portion of the chassis on a 2wd allows it to glide over big rocks, ruts etc rather than slamming into them - which will only unsettle a car.

I cant say that I have lost any ride height with the angled wishbones front or rear

Look at the Lazer side on (even at ride height) you can plainly see how due to the upward angle of the arms you have more ground clearance at the front of the arm than at the back of the arm. This is what is required and is found on any buggy with kickup in the arms or chassis.
Now note how the ground clearance of the chassis near the back of the arm is the same or similar to the ground clearance of the arm but when you look to the front of the chassis you see that it's ground clearance doesn't match that of the front of the arms, whereas on a 2wd it will still match due to the chassis kickup - so you mightn't lose ride height but the way it's done on the Lazer does lose ground clearance - it's just a flaw in the car that is relatively easy to fix (and Kyosho even fixed it themselves on the ZX-S Evolution).

The standard unit is 60/40 - read the instructions as it plainly says its a 60/40 drivetrain - however maybe I made a mistake - maybe the 50/50 without a one way was diabolical, as I will never drive a 4wd without a one way. I use a hydra drive unit slipper clutch but the ZX third diff was just like a slipper for me. To be honest I didnt like the ZX system.

Was you car originally a ZX Lazer?
Yeah the ZX Lazer IS a 60/40 drive split - due to the third diff - which transfers more drive to the front wheels.

If you aren't using the original ZX centre diff or if you still use standard pulleys then your car is 50/50 - it's that simple.

The only other way to get more drive to the front constantly is to use bigger diameter front tyres - do you do that?

If you really want to get technical about the drive split/one ways then below is a summary of how both the ZX and ZXR work.

ZX with one-way = Acceleration: 60F/40R Coasting/Braking: 0F/100R

ZX with one-way locked = Acceleration: 60F/40R Coasting/Braking: 40F/60R

ZXR with one-way = Acceleration: 50F/50R Coasting/Braking: 0F/100R

ZXR with one-way locked = Acceleration: 50F/50R Coasting/Braking: 50F/50R

Of course with the ZX the actual drive split difference is entirely dependant on how tight the centre diff is. The looser it is - then the more drive you get to the most-unloaded wheels (usually the front) - if you wanted you could run the ZX with a 90/10 split :eek:

I just found the YZ10 was too butch, and too stable I couldnt make it twitchy enough

Hey, you are right about how stable the YZ10 is, and on a high grip surface you do need a more twitchy car - but I'm looking to tune the car to the tracks I race on - and here in Oz you need to find all the grip you can get - something not easy to do with the Lazer.

Regarding the worlds - who cares if only one or two made it, it proves my point that if it made the A it is definatley a good design, after all the Lazer has been in several world A finals - which means a lot.

My point was just that the Lazer only showed it's best on certain types of tracks that suited it. Over the years, worldwide, the Yokomo and lately XX4 have proven to be more "all-round" 4wds, able to be competative on a wider variety of tracks.

That is something I want to get out of the Lazer, the fact that this is a car that is strong, reliable and fast and I believe still has lots of potential that Kyosho failed to capitalize on, it just has a few bug that need soting out.

BTW, those picture you posted, that is just a standar ZX-S Evolution which was released a couple of years ago - I don't see anything new about that car.

relayer

05-12-2004, 03:34 AM

By the way I have the instruction manual for the ZX-S Evolution in pdf from if anyone is interested - but it's 4mb!

welshy40

05-12-2004, 05:38 AM

Relayer - the ZX-S pictures were for Lazerfan1, as we are trying to copy items from various cars to update the Lazer - bettering it. The only reason I put prototype there was it was easier.

Any way I have the instruction manual for the ZX-S but cheers anyway. I am at the moment trying to persuade the Japanese Kyosho bunch to sell me the prototype which I posted a picture of on this site. Its not going to be made as they are (have ) developed a new shaft drive and pictures will follow shortly (hopefully).

As I said earlier, that I set my car up soft with heavy oil, but the car always sits lower at the back whilst on the move, it works better, and the grip on dusty surface is superb. I set it so the chassis takes the hammering in the middle and back - I deliberatley set the car soft and yes it bottoms out a lot but the car handles better - I cannot explain it, but I have proved it does work. Some of the Kyosho drivers tried my setup, but couldnt drive it, due to it being too twitchy, but thats how I like it.

I have never come across anyone who is moaning about ground clearance on this car. The ride height is fine as is, however the angle on the wishbones does improve the handling, on both front and back. The height taken away is minimal, as if you set the car up with no spacing the car will be too high anyway. And also the wheelbase width will be narrower if set on full height. Its not an issue, the only thing that appears to be a problem in Oz is the front gearbox - which I can understand. If you look at the ZX-S the kick up on the rear wishbones is identical to the ZX/ZXR. Yes the front has kick up - but not much.

Im not using the ZX slipper - Im using the same slipper clutch that is in the ZX-S car. However this doesnt mean its 50/50. Yes it may be and am not disagreeing, but my car does seem to pull more than push on accelarating in and out of corners, and explains why I can go flat out tight in and out of all corners without backing off, which makes me think it might be 60/40 on mine. Condsidering I have used a 50/50 and found it was in fact slower in and out of the corners, but it may have been without the one way - but it was 12 years ago so cannot remember.

The YZ10 is pretty good on all tracks, but I didnt like the look of it, and didnt enjoy driving it. Yes the tips I had from Team Yokomo helped but it wasnt as dialable as the Lazer. There wasnt as many tuning options available. For Oz, yes it should be good.

I found the Lazers only down fall was clay tracks (well with me anyway).

I had it dialed on grass - and the Lazer won the UK champs in the hands of Jamie Booth on grass and clay, but he is very experienced on clay.

Its also worked well on a dusty clay/dirt track at the euros in the hands of Ellis Stafford, when he dominated - and all team Kyosho made the A. In fact I found the car was unbelievable on that surface.

Also when I rained not evan Masami with his Yokomo YZ10 could beat me - I lapped him, the Lazer could put in the same time in 2inches of rain compared to a totally dry track. Not evan the Yokomos or Losis can do that.

And carpet - the Lazer has won the indoor british champs plenty of times - by team Kyosho again, and also got me 5th. This car on carpet is more like driving a train as its on rails. Its has more steering than you can imagine if set up correctly.

A lot of people do not realise that using the longer driveshafts and moving the castor blocks out onto the other hole (wishbone connector hole) totally changes the car from understeering average car to a superb performer. It makes the car much more stable (like a YZ10) but with much more steering (with the 7 degree blocks) when required and you can throw the car anywhere on the track without losing it.

If you dont do this its pointless buying the 7 degree blocks as they are only 7 on the inner hole on the castor blocks and on the standard hole its 0 degrees.

It also improves the car if you have zero bump steer (the blue steering parts I have listed on this site somewhere), as this means through the ruts and bumps and pot holes the steering doesnt alter at all so is much more driveable than you'd think. But that is with the ZX steering brace, as it actually works better than the ZXR version.

You should also realise Kyosho did capitalise the car, however the importers and distributers decided not to import the items that were developed whilst the car was on the market - Japan and all Team Kyosho drivers had loads of new inventive ideas that worked brilliantly, but we were let down by the importers.

relayer

05-12-2004, 06:13 AM

Yeah it's only the front of the chassis/gearbox being flat that is a problem, the actual suspension on the car works well. That's why I'm keen to get something happening with a kick-up on the chassis - I just wish there was away of testing it before asking Fibrelyte to make me one.
I use those 7 degree castor blocks too - but even with the standard blocks you've got all the steering you could need here!

I know I have my facts right about the 60/40 drive.. but.. if you run the front diff tighter than the rear then the front would pull the rear through the corners - so I guess it's like having a 60/40 split.

I have to admit that running a tight front diff is something I've never tried - perhaps it's the key to making the car more stable?

My Lazer is in a million pieces at the moment whilst i ponder what to do with the chassis. I don't want to buy an expensive carbon chassis unless I can get it with a kick-up but I can't seem to find a stock frp chassis either :(

welshy40

05-12-2004, 06:39 AM

relayer - so do you use the longer front driveshafts?? and the castor block on the outer hole like mine??

Also the diffs, I used to use gear diffs indoors and it pulled more - I havent a clue, and as long as it out paces the opposition I couldnt care what type it is. Mind you im with the ball diffs now, and have to admit the car isnt as good with them - it feels different.

Also soon hopefully I will have managed to copy the wishbone pivots/brackets - all four of them. Then that will be available from Fibre-Lyte to. So far they have all the ZX/ZXR chassis and shock mount parts and plate sets on file. Then there is my designs as well, and then after that hopefully I can redesign the wing mount out of carbon fibre as well, so then all I need to develop is the front and rear gear boxes. That would then mean that as long as Fibre-Lyte stay in business the Lazer ZX/ZXR will always have parts available.

Oh yes I have some pictures of the Kyosho car that looks like its not going to be made.

welshy40

05-12-2004, 06:41 AM

More..

welshy40

05-12-2004, 06:42 AM

And More...

eatmydust

05-12-2004, 01:46 PM

Welshy,

You said you have these pictures? Weird?!? JDAWG posted them a few days ago on the painting pages.

Don't take credit for other people's work. not cool.

fabolousRC

05-13-2004, 02:42 AM

jdawg gave it to him

welshy40

05-13-2004, 03:39 AM

eatmydust - I wasnt taking credit - as fabolousRC said jdawg53 gave them to me - but as usual I forgot to give him the credit - I'd forget my name if it wasnt on my credit card. But I have a lot more of used ones - but they are dirty.

However this isnt the first lot of pictures of this car I have posted. I just thought everyone would like to see it as new, as not many people know where the 4wd Buggy section is. It took me a while to find it and I was looking for it.

However I will be taking credit for the new 4wd Prototype pictures, and its a shaft drive. Coming soon on this site.

relayer

05-13-2004, 03:45 AM

I'm not surprised that they aren't continuing with that prototype, the transmission is all wrong.

It looks like a botch-up so they can quickly test different belt configurations - one with the belt coming off the rear diff pulley and another with the belt running off some sort of auxillary counter gear/layshaft.

welshy - I run the castor blocks on the outside hole

Lazerfan1

05-13-2004, 04:36 AM

Welshy40 Hey I can't wait to see what the new Lazer will be like! And how did you get the new pictures? I;m very curious as to see what the new design will entitle, will it be just like the BJ4 or the new Yokomo design or the Durango? I'm still waiting for the machine shop to get all the lead paint scraped off the walls so it can open back up. This company is just milking the government on this contract, I swear to god! Well I'll be waiting for those pictures of the new shaft drive. Later.....

welshy40

05-13-2004, 04:54 AM

Lazerfan1 - Im getting the pictures from someone in Japan. This saturday they are using it for the first time. Hopefully I will be sent the pictures. Fibre-Lyte are going to make the wishbone braces for me - however they are going to be plates with exception of the two on the chassis. They are saying that the two holes in the middle may weaken the carbon fibre - but are also saying they cannot accurately drill theose two holes either - so we may have to do that our selves - but hey who cares, as long as we can now get replacements (hopefully if im happy with the design)

JDAWG53

05-13-2004, 11:44 AM

Here you guys go. Here is a pic of the new shaft car. Looks good. Hopefully it will be brought into the U.S. The pic is from the Shizuoka show.
Sorry Welshy not trying to steal your thunder. Hopefully your pics will be different views.

eatmydust

05-13-2004, 12:45 PM

More info on the prototype...

- Multi-plate carbon chassis
- Front and Rear Delrin Ball Diffs,
- FW-05R Bulkheads
- Threaded Twin Cap Shocks

On top of that are the usual Lazer Parts.

JDAWG53

05-13-2004, 02:43 PM

more pics for ya.

JDAWG53

05-13-2004, 02:43 PM

another

JDAWG53

05-13-2004, 02:46 PM

and another

JDAWG53

05-13-2004, 02:47 PM

and again

Lazerfan1

05-13-2004, 04:26 PM

This design looks awsome!!! I can't wait till we get more information on how it works or rather performs on the track and how will the durability be???? But anyways it would be a great addition to my collection of Lazers!!! I have really been wanting to get rid of my New Yokomo MR4BC Superdogfighter so I can keep upgrading my lazer. I'm thinking of going brushless and then I will never need to buy another motor ever. Has anybody used a novak brushless in their Lazers Yet??? If you have let me know. Thanks!.............. :D

alka1ine

05-13-2004, 09:35 PM

hmm it looks like those kingpin holders on that shaftdrive one would fit the ZX also so maybe we'll have a couple more parts to use as replacements afterall.

-I couldn't help myself and just had to check on my usual forums even though I have class in the morning and 2 pretty good sized projects to be working on... I'm only about halfway on one and 70% on the other, stupid internet gets me hooked every time.

fabolousRC

05-14-2004, 01:10 AM

looks like the shocks are finally made all aluminum based...welshy's wish came true :D

welshy40

05-14-2004, 06:53 AM

JDAWG53 - cant fault it - one step ahead of the game - in fact the pictures I just got are pretty much the same as yours - it looks promising doesnt it? Also any news on those MIP driveshafts and alloy wheel hex nuts?

Relayer - so the standard driveshafts then? OR am i worng in understanding and have your castor blocks on the same hole like mine (I posted a picture of the castor block and it shows the hole I use.) The rear drive train on the belt prototype is 2 gears - one the diff and the other the spur and attached the gear to the diff (I think anyway - they say its a direct drive rear box)

fabolousRC - yes its about time they went back to the origional shock design, however they are still using the equaliser shock tops (plastic) and I dont like the design, as it has to be pushed in through the screw top section - not a very good design. I will buy associated tops and fit them instead if I ever buy this car.

fabolousRC

05-14-2004, 07:27 AM

hey Tamiya uses plastic top! (albeit for some reason is a better and harder quality compared to Kyosho's) and it's the best touring shocks ever...even Other Manufacturers admitted to that (except for that Traxxas shocks....hmmm)

relayer

05-15-2004, 03:56 AM

Welshy- I use the inside hole so that the front end is wider plus it gives you the extra 7degrees castor as you've said.

About that belt drive prototype- If you look closely there are actually 3 gears in there, one of them is basically impossible to see but it's on the layshaft, buried under that other combined gear/pulley. When looking at the car from the slipper nut side, the layshaft is rotating clockwise (whe the car is going forward), and there is a little gear on the layshaft that is joined to the diff gear so that the diff is turning the right way. Right above that is that gear/pulley thingy which is also being turned over by the little layshaft gear - truly a horrible design.

But I think they did it to so they could have a car to test different belt configurations without doing a complete redesign of the whole car. That combo gear/pulley thing can be quickly removed and then they can run a belt straight from the rear diff to the front diff.

I have a picture of this car side by side with a touring car protoype based on the same buggy - they have the 4wd transmission set up like the pictures you posted, and the tourer set up with the belt running straight off the rear diff - even though the cars are basically the same! Obviously they were testing which was better, but it seems they went for the shaft drive instead!

BTW How do you post pictures?

cwginkc

05-16-2004, 12:59 PM

Hey Welshy,

Here are the pictures of the wheel/axle hub modifications to run Atlas CVD's.

Chris

cwginkc

05-16-2004, 01:15 PM

The original Lazer axle and hub has a tapered fit. Too use the Atlas CVD's, I had to bore out the tapered section of the wheel hub with a 5mm endmill, then cut a 2mm slot for the cross pin. I used some .078" steel hobby wire to make the cross pins.

Chris

welshy40

05-17-2004, 03:50 AM

Chris,

Your work is good stuff - I cant fault it. However, you could have just got the same wheel adapters that they are using on the belt prototype which are posted above and they would have given the correct width. Mind you you would have to revert to the white Kyosho wheels. Did you see my finished car?

relayer - I didnt know that about the gears. Posting pics is easy you have to minimise the picture to the required size and click on the manage attachments and then find thge picture on your deck top etc etc....

fabolousRC - Traxxas shocks are the best and I use a set from the trx1, and they are superb.

Right here is more new on the prototype - I have been sent more pics, and info.

It is said that the temporary name of this car is LAZER ZX-5.

The tires, the wheels, the suspension arm, the hub, the knuckle, and
the universal shaft are using the same thing as ZX-S EVO.

The parts of KX-ONE(KX021) are attached in the knuckle.

One-way equipment is carried out ahead of a drive shaft.
Slippers are attached. The steering system and servo horn are as the Ultima RB-Type R.

paulcap

05-17-2004, 05:10 AM

Do you guys know where i can still get a new lazer? Or any kyosho 4wd buggy kit that can at least try to whoop some xxx4 butt.

Thanks.

welshy40

05-17-2004, 05:23 AM

Try Ebay - as these cars are old - the youngest being nearly ten years old - mine was bought (by me) in 1988.

Also the front gearboxes are unavailable, so may be a problem, unless Lazerfan1 has an answer soon (when his friends place is reopened that is).

Why not wait a while and see how the shaft drive prototype does, and buy it if it gets released.

But if you really want a Lazer ZX/ZXRR etc then in June next year I will be selling my car - I am doing one more indoor season and then the British indoor champs and then its got to go. And you will never find another like it (well maybe sooner or later you will as they are now selling the development chassis parts I designed)

paulcap

05-17-2004, 05:28 AM

let me try some *** shops, they may be able to help. Thanks!
Am looking for any kit aside from a Losi as our home track is filled with them, am already listed for a BJ4X4 but we're really not sure when that'll come. sigh...

Try Ebay - as these cars are old - the youngest being nearly ten years old - mine was bought (by me) in 1988.

Also the front gearboxes are unavailable, so may be a problem, unless Lazerfan1 has an answer soon (when his friends place is reopened that is).

Why not wait a while and see how the shaft drive prototype does, and buy it if it gets released.

But if you really want a Lazer ZX/ZXRR etc then in June next year I will be selling my car - I am doing one more indoor season and then the British indoor champs and then its got to go. And you will never find another like it (well maybe sooner or later you will as they are now selling the development chassis parts I designed)

welshy40

05-17-2004, 06:11 AM

Well I have been talking with Brad, and they are being held back by other suppliers, as soon as they get the remainder of the parts, they will start shipping - most likely sooner than you may think. I would buy the BJ4 as you get the team version with all the hop up parts as standard. And spares are from the RC10B4 and truck kits.

welshy40

05-17-2004, 07:50 AM

Guys, I have just noticed that certain Lazer Alpha parts fit the Lazer - yes they are plastic but still....

LZ4
LZ7
LZ8

These items are the wishbone braces (well some of them and the rear gearbox. Any one know what the front gearbox part number is??

JDAWG53

05-17-2004, 03:11 PM

Welshy
Here is a web site that you might enjoy.
http://homepage3.nifty.com/ksrclifestyle/kyoshoproto.htm

cwginkc

05-17-2004, 07:34 PM

Welshy,

I haven't seen a picture of your Lazer without the body. Please post one, I look forward to seeing it.

Acquiring the wheel hubs from the prototype lazer would probably be more difficult than making my own. Considering they are prototypes after all. LOL
Plus, it looks like the threaded part of the axle is also longer than stock on the Proto.

I am keeping my fingers crossed on this ZX5. It looks very impressive.

welshy40

05-18-2004, 03:53 AM

JDAWG53 - I got sent the same by one of the guys in Japan. You are one step ahead, as I was going to post it - he he. Any way yes they are nice.

I am stuck tho, as you said that the hex nuts are one offs for that car.

The problem I am having is that I want to use the TF4 rear hubs (as like the two prototype cars), and due to it being around 2 or 3mm shorter at the front than the ZX/ZXR rear hubs the wheelbase is a lot narrower.

The Kyosho hex nuts are fine at the front for the standard white Kyosho wheels, but if I put wider hex nuts on the rear I could get the width wider.

The question is what hex nuts can I use to push the rear out more. I am at the moment using the standard hex wheel adaptor nuts as the driveshafts are the standard UJ's.

Any ideas, as for the first time I am actually stuck.

Also I have the HPI front CVD parts for the hubs, but am after a shaft Length. Can you ask your driver if he could measure the shafts on his prototype, then I can work with that to sort mine out with MIP parts. Then once I have done it I can post the part numbers so everyone with a Lazer can get the same parts.

Chris - they are posted on the RC10 site. Under 4wd all welcome thread - however the only difference is the front shock mount, which I havent posted yet, but thats due to being sent a CAD design by someone in Japan with the shock mount on the belt prototype. So have changed it slightly to make it fit the ZX. WIll send you a drwaing of it if interested.

paulcap

05-18-2004, 05:44 AM

NIC

05-18-2004, 06:56 AM

welshy40,

Partnumber: SP-2 is a wider drivewasher used in the TF-2, for example, they are 2mm wider then the standard ones, 6mm compared to 4mm.

NIC

welshy40

05-18-2004, 07:14 AM

NIC - so am I right in thinking these will lock on just like the ZX/ZXR lock wheels adapters? If so I will buy a set.

NIC

05-18-2004, 01:41 PM

welshy40,

They have the normal coned/press-on fit, so the answer is yes. I use them sometimes with rims that have different offsets in both offroad AND onroad sedans. In some rims the plastic hexagonal are so deep that the rims touch the hubs, mostly sedan foam tires. There they come to the rescue also. I have a few unopened bags of them that I´m gonna use to different cars to make them a little bit wider.
The partnumber I think comes from the orginal Spider car, Kyoshos first "narrow" (200mm) sedan back in 1995 if I remembered correctly, therefore the "SP" in the partnumber.

NIC

welshy40

05-19-2004, 03:35 AM

NIC - thanks - I have got a set, however I am now thinking that maybe Kyosho Japan's idea may be a correct one. They have the rear slightly narrower than the front (hardly noticeable - only 1 or 2mm), and maybe this is helping the car corner better, so am gonna try in a few weeks with the TF3 hubs. I will also try the Spider hex nuts and see which is best and let you guys know. I will say that the TF3 hubs are neater and nicer to use than the standard hubs.

welshy40

05-20-2004, 03:34 AM

Guys, I had a laugh yesterday. In October I ordered two ZX-S shells from Tower Hobbies. Well they never turned up, so they sent me two more and because of this they will no longer ship to me in the UK - theyre loss - however the origional order turned up yesterday. I now have 5 bodyshells - two painted and three unpainted.

Lazerfan1

05-20-2004, 04:43 AM

Welshy hey I once had the same thing happen to me when I was in Rota Spain and I ordered a car thru towers and after 3 months it never came because I had ordered it by gound shipping instead of by2nd air mail. So after that they sent me a complete order for $9.00 more and it got to me within a week. Towards the end of my deployment after seven months I finally recieved the origneal order. They had shipped it out and it took 7 months to get to Rota spain by the slow boat to china. So yes my lesson was learned and I never ordered anything by ground shipping again and just paid the extra 9.00 dollars, So good for you and your new bodies!!!!!!!! :D :D

welshy40

05-20-2004, 04:56 AM

Lazerfan1 - I will get some feedback on the wishbone pivot blocks early next week, and I am hoping that they will be strong enough to do the job (that is if they can make them).

Then at least we have a company that will still be able to make the top decks/chassis's/front and rear shock mounts/steering plates/L brace plates/servo mounts plates/pivot wishbones braces.

I couldnt get the rear gearbox made, so no chance in having the front done. Pity.

But happy that I am not the only one who has had problems with the awful tower hobbies.

Lazerfan1

05-20-2004, 06:51 AM

Yeah I have had a lot better luck with TowerHobbies here in the states! On the regular ground shipping I normally get my shipments withing 6 to 7 days and within 2 days if I really need the part. My machinest friend is really having a great time with all this time off that he is getting due to his shop still being closed he was telling me yesterday! He has been playing a lot of golf everyday and I still swear that this civialian company is milking the goverment contract for everycent that it is worth, He said they just found asbestious in the walls and now that will have to contaract another company to come in and remove it.!!! I can't wait to see how long this will take???? I starting to think that my parts will never get made! I really hope that they can remove everything and my friend will get back to work so he can get working on the parts! Later...........

welshy40

05-20-2004, 07:15 AM

Lazerfan1 - hey Im trying out the TF3 parts soon, and will let you know the outcome. However if your friend can make them, then all that is needed is belts and the pure ten diff set, and wishbones and UJ's. Everything else is readily available.

relayer

05-23-2004, 05:27 AM

If you make the front of the car wider than the rear (or the rear narrower than the front) then you increase stability.

Of course, if you make the rear too narrow then it won't really work!

Welshy- if you combine those TF3 hubs with the wider drive hexs then perhaps it might bring the width of the car back to standard?

welshy40

05-24-2004, 03:33 AM

relayer - the standard team setting was wider front by a miniscule amount, but it made the car so stable and meant you could corner flat out tight in and out of corners.

However with the Spider hex nuts it makes the rear wider than the front, so what i am going to do is skim them to make the width the same as the front and see how it compares to the narrower rear.

Once I have got a good comparison I will post my results.

I have to say now that I do think with the TF3 rear hubs and the standard hex nuts, it should follow the front and as you said will be more driveable.

welshy40

05-25-2004, 03:30 AM

Right guys - News.

Well I might have found someone who can make the front and rear gearboxes out of delrin, but have to send some pics first to see if he can. Will keep you lot informed.

whitey_zxr

06-03-2004, 04:28 AM

Hi

Im new to the forum and was wondering if anyone could help me get hold of a parts for my Lazer ZXR i have had it for years and used to race it, i dug it out of the garage and have got it up and running all that i need is a new front drive sharft can anyone help ?

cheers :)

welshy40

06-03-2004, 05:36 AM

The front driveshafts are the below, but to use these you have to use the other hole on the castor block, so its pushed 3mm wider on each side. This makes the car handle better. You should read each page on this site and you will see what is available and where you can get it. The below is Tower hobbies in the US and is worth getting, as they are only available in the US and Japan.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=w5063&FVPROFIL=++

Or the rear driveshafts which are these.(the normal size)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=w5061&FVPROFIL=++

Any advice just ask. But read this site first as I think I have answered almost everything you could think of.

welshy40

06-03-2004, 05:48 AM

Lazerfan1 - I have sent a new gear box to a chap in the US to see if he can make a mold for us, so we can have someone who can make a front gearbox out of delrin. I will give you his name when you have read this, but will keep his name private for a while as nothing is definate as of yet. I dont know how much he will charge either, however I think if he can do it, it should be a good job, as he is making parts for buggies already out of Delrin.

I also will be getting my new shock towers sent to me by Fibre-Lyte, from the CAD design that was sent to me by my contacts in Japan, and also the wishbone pivot holders, which I will test before I put a part number alongside it for you guys to purchase. Its coming along slowly, but getting there never the less.

Lazerfan1

06-03-2004, 03:29 PM

Welshy hey I know it has been a long time since I last posted but I 'm very interested in what this guy can do for us Lazer faniatics! Just give me an e-mail AT Rcgeico@aol.com with the guys name and number and I will give him a call and have a chat with him if that is ok with you? I'm still waiting for the shop to open back up with the new asbestious contractors in there and god only knows what they will find out what is wrong with the building next! One day I will be able to get my Lazer back out of the building but who knows?? So let me know and yes I will keep his name a secret! Thanks and later....... :cool:

relayer

06-04-2004, 06:53 AM

Finally, some action on this thread again :)

The restoration of my Lazer has come to a standstill until i get a new chassis and topdeck. Now I've realised I need a new motor plate as well (the original owner has drilled a million holes in it :mad: ).

And Welshy, I was digging through some parts boxes the other day and found a full set of almost-new traxxas shocks :cool:

I need to get some o-rings to go between the top of the shock and the shock cap because they leak a little there (I think the rubber diaphrams inside have shrunk :confused: ), but otherwise they are in perfect condition.

welshy40

06-04-2004, 06:58 AM

Lazerfan1 - hey Ken, I forgot to answer your question about the shocks - sorry. Well here goes. What do I think of the Kyosho Twin Cap Pro shocks? Well I think they are pants (basically).

I have had a set and sold them after I built them as they were worse than what you get with the standard Yokomo (and the Yok shocks are the worst made).

They were not a very good design at all. But yes to your question, bladder at the top and none at the bottom. But I would use associated rubber black seals for the top and bottom screw sections to stop the shocks leaking.

Yes the blue shock seals will work in them.

Setups for rough tracks - I am guessing that the surface is dusty and rutty with stones etc.

Well Im not so sure on springs - thats up to you to find out which is best but I would try the below, mind you i am guessing at the surface so ......

Front Piston 1
Front Oil 40
Front Pack 2mm

Rear Piston 2
Rear Oil 30/35
Rear Pack 2mm

This is a rough idea, but I cannot remember if they had 1/2/3 holed pistons, and if so the pistons I have put may be wrong and you may find 3 on the front and 2 rear upping the oils by 10wt front and rear. But I guess you have found a setup so post it for me to see how badly my setup is.

welshy40

06-14-2004, 05:00 AM

Guys I have properly tested my Lazer. The chassis is perfect but I may have to lengthen the top deck a fraction as the front belt was slipping and didnt sound good. The new shock mounts (the ones that I was sent a cad design for from Japan) are very strong and didnt break. I will post pictures soon with part numbers.

These I would seriously recommend you buying as the shock hole positions are better.

My car was set up for carpet and decided to go to a regional BRCA event in England to show someone my car.

I turned up with everything and at 11.30ish, but was surprised that only one round had been completed.

So I booked in and managed to make the A mains (evan tho I drove like an amateur, and considering I didnt evan change the setup at all - well I did raise it and that was it.)

I was on for pole position in all three rounds but seeing as I havent competed since 1999 its quite understandable that I am going to make a few mistakes.

I qualified 6th and got into third on the first corner in the final and was pushing to the front (I was quicker than anyone else), but my shock balljoint broke off the shaft and ended my fun. But fun it was and not bad for a 1988 car.

The chassis doesnt really need much work in finding the correct setup - yes it was a handful for me to drive, but it was soooo stable evan with the wrong setup. It also jumped better than I ever dreamed of, and the new shock mount design which is being used on the prototype is much better as well.

I think I surprised every one at the event, as the car was unbelievably quick, but the peak vantage motors are not quick enough for me, so they are being sold. To think I was using a 10D with a 23 pinion and a 100T spur and it lacked the top end grunt that I am used to. Pity.

welshy40

06-14-2004, 09:27 AM

Oops I made a mistake - the shock mounts are in between the prototype and ZX-S, with slight mods to make it work on the ZX/R

relayer

06-15-2004, 12:27 AM

Good to hear the bits are working.

With the trouble I'm having finding the parts I want, I'll probably have to buy another whole car or get some of that fibrelyte stuff.

I've noticed on ebay lately some new Lazer spares like gearbox housings etc but not the parts I'm looking for :(

welshy40

06-15-2004, 04:14 AM

relayer - what part numbers are you after?? I might be able to help you. Tell me the numbers and I may surprise you as to who has them.

The front and rear shock mounts are superb, and makes the car so much better. The top deck Im talking to Fibre lyte about, but its brilliant as well. The pivot blocks will be done by July so they will be available as well (LA30). But you will have to drill one of them your self, but thats not an issue.

The chassis is great, best balanced chassis I have had.

The front gearbox will hopefully be available some time.

But everything is available with exception of LA30,LA32

welshy40

06-15-2004, 04:21 AM

Guys - here it is the finished front shock mount, and its a vast improvement compared to all others (with exception of ZXJI5).

Its like the car felt improved without doing much, the shock angle is different fractionally and felt more driveable with it. The mount is fractionally lower so the shocks can be spaced correctly if wanted, so the ride height can be spot on for jumping etc.

The part number is ZXSJI12

Your comments are welcome, so if you like or dislike let me know.

welshy40

06-15-2004, 04:27 AM

Guys - here is the rear shock mount, and boy is it good. The car felt much improved with this on the rear. My driving wasnt the best but the car looked good. If you get the front and rear mounts make sure the shock angles are the same on both ends. The part number for the rear mount is ZXSJI11

Let me know what you think - excuse the mess on the sides where the roll bar screws to, its a work in progress, but when you get it will be perfect.

Yes before you ask, I use associated balljoints all over, its better than the Kyosho rubbish balljoints. The positions I am using are the best points for usage with this car, so if you get them copy my positioning as it works best with this car.

relayer

06-16-2004, 06:22 AM

Those shock towers look very good :D

As for the parts I need...

The situation is complicated as I am really semi-retired from racing, and am only thinking about restoring the Lazer because our National Champs next year will be held at my local track, and I believe (like you), that the Lazer will still be competative. At least it's a lot cheaper than buying a new 4wd !

The problem is I need a couple of important bits, the main chassis, the top deck, the motor plate, and maybe a new body - everything else on the car is good plus I even have a few new spares. The problem is finding these bits mentioned.

I know I could just buy the fibrelyte stuff but there are a few problems with that - firstly, the cost. The Aussie dollar doesn't compare too well against the UK Pound so that fibrelyte stuff would be expensive - money better spent on cells or tyres. Secondly- I dont want to spend that much on a car that will most likely be retired to the display cabinet by this time next year.

Finally, I still believe the chassis needs a kick up, so if I was getting the fibrelyte stuff I'd want them to make one like that, and that will cost even more.

If I can get a standard (or any 2nd hand) chassis in good condition then I'll be satisfied with that - but it seems there are none around.

I've even tried buying whole cars lately on ebay but I've missed out or they are too expensive.

I have thought about making a chassis myself, with a seperate alloy kickup plate like the ZXS Evolution - but can't find the time at the moment.

welshy40

06-16-2004, 06:50 AM

Relayer - kick up will probably ruin your chances of a good result. If you actually do what I did and lower the shock positions on the mount the ride height is better, and also the batts sit in a much better place for jumps, and is stable as well.

I understand where you are coming from on the price, but for a bodyshell I have placed the only company in the world somewhere on this thread that still makes it. They are in Greece and do make the ZXR shell, and the undertray, and yes its dirt cheap.

The fibre lyte designs I have done, means you can use the ZX-S and prototype cars shell so the car looks better as well.

Also the car is now more stable in and out of corners, and jumps better than I thought was possible.

I also used TF4 rear hubs and used the outer hole on them bottom and top and the ball joints positoned as on the shock mounts pictures above.

The rear was narrower than the standard Lazer, however with the wider front the car was more forgiving on the rear, so I could throw my car any where I wanted.

The TF4 rear hubs are a definate requirement, but you may need a couple of thin spacers/washers for the driveshafts to make them fit perfectly, but its definately worth it. It makes the car look better and maintanence is easier.

The new shock towers make the whole package work, and the surface I recently raced on was grass on a dusty dry bed, with stable top, a double hump jump and a drop down then up ramp.

The car was lovely to drive evan though I didnt set the car up - I used an indoor setup, but it was raised a lot, it was also on for pole every heat which proves that the car is now better than before.

Im going to finish off the wishbone bracket/pivot pins through Fibre-Lyte then Im going to sell up. I have completed my project, which was to get as many items that were not available on the market, available again. Fibre-Lyte have copied the lot. I will post the items when done with part numbers and then game over from me.

Well almost - Lazerfan1 will hopefully have a mould for the front gearbox which I am hoping will be made, so you should all be able to get through him. But only when I know this is a definate from my source I will post it and hopefully the picture for everyone. I may be going from this car, however I still want it to keep running.

Motor plate, well you could try tower hobbies, if not you could get one made up in a metal shop.