Kyosho Lazer ZX, ZXS, ZXR, Alpha [Archive] - Page 3

welshy40

07-19-2004, 10:26 AM

Relayer - Manage attachments in the reply to thread section is what you need to click on to attach a picture from your desk top. But it has to be a certain size otherwise it wont accept it.

I have just shown my car to a Greek Lazer fan, who came over here to check it out, and I think he went home today upset that he couldnt take my car with him.

He said that the drive train is more free than the standard cars, and we got a good 8 mins out of a pack of cells so was very impressed. He also liked my shock mounts and top deck designs, but he has a few good ideas himself so you may be getting feed back from someone else soon. He thought my overall setup before he saw the car was too soft, but after seeing it go I have changed his mind.

Also there will be a company in Greece who is going to produce the ZX-S bodyshells so when Tower run out they will be available from Greece, as they do the ZXR shell/undertray there at the moment.

In about a month (hopefully) I will be passing a lot of spares and all my gear including my Lazer to a chap an hours drive from London. He is a capable racer and has managed to take pole position from me at an event about a month ago (which is hard work when Im firing on all cylinders) so I think the cars going to a good home.

Im sorry guys for not staying in the game with the best car ever made, but I need the cash at the mo......boohoo. But all the info I have posted has improved the car to a higher level than the newer cars out now so I would try and do what I have done, and boy will you notice the difference.

1. I put the Kyosho Rear V TF4 rear hubs on (lowest holes only on the hubs and outer on the top from Tower Hobbies)

2. Associated balljoints all round

3. ZX steering brace (the straight one)

4. Kyosho Special Uni-Crank SPGP/Pure Ten - the blue steering parts I listed earlier to stop bump steer available from Tower hobbies

5. 7 degree front castor blocks using the inner hole to move the block further out to widen the front

6. W5063 front Universal driveshafts (the 3mm longer version from Tower Hobbies) which work with the castor block

7. Carbon fibre L brace for the gearbox

8. Carbon fibre servo mount for the servo

9. Associated screw set for the ZX/ZXR, and ball joint nuts

10. Carbon Fibre front and rear shock towers, I redesigned - the latest ones I have listed as the cars handling improves with them.

11. The new carbon fibre top deck I designed.

12. The Kyosho Hyper clutch (the same item in the ZX-S) which improves the performance, but you have to throw away the solid bushing which goes on the layshaft and swap it with a thinner bearing, as this pushes the two layshaft gears close together and stops the friction caused by the layshaft moving left and right on the two big bearings - it should not move at all.

13. Get the Associated B2 servo mounts, and put on the Lazer. This moves the servo further in the chassis so you will have to have two silver poles to hold the top deck up in the middle of the chassis, but the one hole not to be used on the top deck is the outer one by the servo, as the servo is sitting over the hole - so you use the middle one instead. There is no diiference in flex, and this improves the weight distribution by moving the servo as close to the belt as possible. You will need a Kimbrough Large servo saver (this is a worthy buy especially in a smash)

14. The chassis I designed. It fits the ZX-S shell and with the batteries closer to the centre and further forwards the car is more stable and balanced on all surfaces.

15. The rear wishbone holder (pivot holder). On the instruction manual for the Lazer its supposed to be with the angled sections pointing up - thats wrong, the angled section where the wishbone pivot poles go need to be facing towards the ground so angled downwards. The one by the motor the instruction manual is correct. The one behind the front gearbox is correct. The front you need the item to be in the highes two holes on the front gearbox so the wishbones have the maximum kick up. Also the pivot holder should be pointing downwards like the rear one.

16. The position for the tie rods on the shock towers is on a few pages back where I posted pics of the front and rear shock towers that make the car better. I left the ball joints on so you guys could copy. It improves the car in the holes I have used. Try it yourself to see what I mean.

17. Camber 1 degree all round, however you can do 2 if you feel 1 is not enough. I use 1 degree, but have found 2 to work on certain tracks better.

18. Shocks - I use Traxxas TRX1 as they are the best ever made, however Associated are the next best. With the Associated I take out all washers and put in three mip seals and click in. This smoothes out the shocks and makes it better. Schumacher and Associated springs seem to be the best for this car, I have tried all and found them the best.

19. The shocks need 2mm of pack on each shock.

You can order the carbon fibre bits without the countersunk holes, so specify that you dont want them countersunk otherwise they might turn up with countersunk holes for the associated crews.

I hope this helps.

relayer

07-20-2004, 02:12 AM

Yeah I know this isn't a Lazer but I'm just checking to see that I have done this right.

relayer

07-20-2004, 02:14 AM

Cool, it works! I will put some pics of my Lazer up.

welshy40

07-20-2004, 03:39 AM

relayer - that looks like a Nikko car - I bought one for a bet, that I couldnt make a regional carpet A final with it. Well I made the A, but the cars gearbox wasnt happy after the event tho.

relayer

07-20-2004, 04:38 AM

The car above is actually a Nichimo Luminous 4wd. They made 6 cars in the mid-late 80's, and this was their last. it used a shaft drive system similar to Tc3, Predator etc but it had an automatic sensing third diff which would lock itself up depending upon track conditions. :cool:

It also has just about the worst shocks of any car I've had :o

The motor mounts at the back near the top, basically just under the big gap under the body.

This is just one of the rare cars in my collection.

Ok, here is my Lazer:

fabolousRC

07-24-2004, 10:04 AM

what kind of wheel aer you using there...it looks like one of those HPIs...not so sure though

relayer

07-25-2004, 06:38 AM

Sorry, I don't know what wheels they are, they came with the car when I bought it.

They might be Fastrax wheels (in the UK) but I cant be sure - they certainly aren't HPI wheels.

welshy40

07-26-2004, 08:05 AM

Guys, they are either fastrax or Kyosho wheels. I think the Alpha or 2000 models had those wheels.

Nice car, well looked after, but needs a carbon fibre overhaul.

Next week a chap called Ian is buying my car with almost everything. I hope he keeps it in supreme condition like it is now.

So my last job to do is finish the front gearbox, as I have someone who is designing a mold so more can be made.

And the other being carbon fibre wishbone pivot/braces but will post pics when finished. Yes they may not be as strong as the alloy ones, but stronger than plastic, and at least you will still be able to race when you break those crappy plastic items.

Lazerfan1

07-31-2004, 09:25 PM

Hey everyone this is the Lazerfan1 back in action and Now as of about 2 hours ago I finally got the Tittianium Chassi and TT Top plate finally installed on my car it is so strong now and absoutly no flex! Well Welshy40 I'm sorry that I'm not there with the money in order to buy your car! Fo0r I wish I could buy it. Well I'm still waiting to here from our contact about the front gearboxes. But in the mean time I'm asking my friend to try and machine the front gearbox and also the rear gearbox out of alumin! Even if it is a little on the heavy side I'm going to go Brushless!!! Then I will have no problems with the little extra weight issue. I'm eagerly awaiting to see what LRP and Reedy are going to create for there new Brushless speed control and motor system they are going to create. I'm also going to have my friend try and make me the suspension arms aout of alumin and then I will see what else he will be able to make! Later on and I'll try and post a picture of the chassi and top plate Later..................

welshy40

08-02-2004, 04:31 AM

Lazerfan1 - Ken, why dont you ask our gearbox man if he could make the wishbones out of delrin or whatever he uses. Keep the holes in the same place but just redesgn the overal design to get a better look.

Hopefully he can design the front gearbox mold, I will pay and you will get the mold and the front gearbox I sent him. Then by that time (whenever that is) my job is complete, and its up to you - maybe you can use the mold to make and sell more front gearboxes, but we will discuss that when the time comes. Im just hoping the cost of the mold wont be megga expensive, considering I dont have the car anymore - I sold it on Sunday to Ian (its gone to a good home).

Im almost done with the wishbone pivot brackets and will post a picture with more part numbers when done.

Oh yes one more thing - thanks Ken, I got the wilkinson blade set in the post, much appreciated. When you are next down in my kneck of the woods, let me know so we can meet up and have a few brews.

You do have my email address dont you?

Awaiting your lazer pics...

Lazerfan1

08-02-2004, 03:12 PM

Hey Welshy40 James I'm going to see what my guy can do with the front and rear gearboxes and it has to be soon before December just because I just got my new orders and now in the first week of December I must move to Mississippi. As soon as I get down there I will have to deploy with my unit in order to go to Iraq. My wife is not too happy with this set of orders but I told her that it is my job. I will be gone from January 5th 2005 to August 20 2005. SO I need to get this done before December. If the cost for the mold is too great just let me know and I will try and pitch in in order to lighten the cost for the front mold! Just let me know and I will see what I can do!!!!!! Buy the way have you heard anything from our contact about this??? IF you have let me know and just drop me an e-mail AT Rcgeico@aol.com. Later From Ken........ I'll post my pics on my website OK! As soon as my camera gets repaired since my cats decided to use it as a toy and bat it around the house the other day! Later.......

welshy40

08-05-2004, 03:12 AM

Lazerfan1 - Ken, blaming it on the cat - tut tut hehe, but no news yet unfortunately. Due to his busy schedule and other projects this has been shelved for a little while, I just got an email from him saying that. Pity.

I feel sorry for you having to go to Iraq in January. Not good.

Well Im now Lazerless, as i have sold mine, and am now buying an LCD TV with the proceeds and a new hard drive for my laptop, and some more clothes to pull the lovely ladies (if I can find any over here!).

welshy40

08-17-2004, 08:51 AM

NEWSFLASH***NEWSFLASH***NEWSFLASH****NEWSFLASH***N EWSFLASH

Right here goes.

In Greece a company is making bodyshells and undertrays for the ZXR. Right this is old news, but the product is thicker and will have a longer life than the Kyosho shell. Plus the price is half the price.

Now thanks to my friend, he has handed one of my ZX-S shells (not mine now) and has copied the design and is selling them. Im not sure on the price but guaranteed to be quite cheap.

This is the site. They ship world wide.

www.penkarc.com/

relayer

08-17-2004, 09:01 AM

welshy40

08-17-2004, 11:27 AM

Relayer - Im confused, the car works better with a narrower rear end, so you were correct to use the TF4 hubs, but new standard suspension mounts ?? DO you have a link to it as I havent got a clue what they are. Is that the shock tower?? Please let me know.

But having it wider at the rear will give your car a good excuse to understeer, and making it slower in and out of the corners. T

he Rear hubs are good, in fact I think it should have been done first time round.

Have you the longer front driveshafts and moved your castor blocks out to the outer holes?

relayer

08-18-2004, 07:10 AM

The rear suspension mounts I got were from ebay - they are alloy units made by A&L - I assume back in the mid 90's. Included are two mounts - the one that bolts to the chassis just behind the motor (I'll call that "A") and the one right at the back of the car that bolts to the shock tower mount, LA?? (call it "B")

They have the holes for the rear arm hingpins drilled slightly further apart than the normal plastic kyosho mounts - in effect making the car a little wider (only probably about 4mm).

But by using one of the A&L mounts in combination with one of the original mounts - you can vary the rear toe-in.

If you use the A&L "A" block with the stock "B" then you get less toe in, but if you use the stock "A" with the A&L "B" then the rear toe in increases. You have even more options when you combine them with the 2 degree TF4 hubs.

For the tracks I race on, increasing the toe in on the rear will improve stability, which is just what I need.

Yep, I have moved the castor blocks out at the front, but I don't need longer drive shafts because I don't use a Lazer diff up front - I use a one-way unit from an Optima Mid - because the outdrive cups are bolted on seperately I can space them out a little so I don't need longer driveshafts.

So my lazer actually runs two one-ways, the standard one in the layshaft, plus the one in the front gearbox.

welshy40

08-19-2004, 06:35 AM

Relayer - I found with my pivot blocks (LA30 I think) that they were the same size, so am a bit surprised yours were wider, but I know the number two toe in is more than the standard and understand why you use it, low traction more turn in etc. But Im guessing the one behind the motor is wider across. Keep the toe in the same but try it narrower and see if you do get the back to follow the front. Im curious now.

Actually thinking about the one ways you have, it really doesnt make a difference with two, as they both do the same thing at roughly the same time. Is the diff bigger or smaller?? im guessing its a gear diff.

relayer

08-19-2004, 06:59 AM

Running the one-ways like I do makes the car completly different to standard (and to most other 4wds).

With the original layshaft one-way set up the front free-wheels off power, so basically you have braking to the rear wheels only and 2wd down the straight.

But under accleration the car reverts to full time 4wd. This is the same system as most 4wds throughout the years, especially Yokomo.

The drawback is because there is still a diff up front, there is the possibility of the diff unloading itself, as drive is always transferred to the least loaded wheel, in this case the inside front wheel. In effect the 4wd system isn't working as effectively as it could.

You can correct some of this "diffing-out" problem by running the front diff tighter but not only does running the diff tighter reduce efficiency, it also gives the car less turn-in.

Running the layshaft 1-way plus the 1-way unit in the diff housing gives you the best of both worlds - you still have the advantage of the layshaft 1-way working but as well as that the car can't "diff out" under acceleration as there is no diff - both inside and outside front wheels are being driven at the same speed. By making the front wheels do more work than the normal way, you are increasing the cars overall grip - which is what 4wd is all about :D

Plenty of cars have come out with the 1-way unit replacing the diff (original Yokomo, Playtron Lynx, Optima Mid etc) but no manufacturer has combined the two...

having said that, that new BJ4x4 has a layshaft 1-way standard, and I believe you can get a 1-way unit for the front housing (I think they call it a "spool"), so theoretically it will work for this car too.

My standard pivot blocks are just that "standard" - it's just the A&L pivot blocks that are wider - so you end up with more toe-in combinations when you combine them. I will post some pictures when i take them off the car.

welshy40

08-23-2004, 03:42 AM

relayer - well I liked the front working more (60/40 drive) and the best system I used was the third diff on the ZX, and that was a superb design. However I can understand why you use it as the surface you race on is lower grip than what im used to. But a good idea by you never the less to use it.

relayer

08-23-2004, 03:48 PM

Unfortunately, I've never had the opportunity to try the 3rd diff on a Lazer, I think it would be good too.

I don't understand why almost all 1/8 gas off road 4wds use a centre diff yet in electric there have only been a handfull of cars that have come with them (and the original Lazer was probably the last one) :confused:

With modern materials, a centre diff wouldnt weigh any more than a slipper, and few people are constantly changing spur gears, so i dont know why someone isnt trying them again in 4wds.

relayer

09-02-2004, 04:41 AM

Well life just got easier for me when it comes to making/modifying parts as I just aquired AutoCad.

I've already started on some new shock towers and chassis prototypes, and will be looking at some other parts soon.

welshy40

09-02-2004, 05:14 AM

Relayer - I can get you the cad drwaings for the shock towers I have on my Lazer (well the one I just sold). They are strong and work a treat. Let me know and will get the drawings sent to me and forward to you. If you want the cad drawings for the top deck and chassis I designed I can try and get them for you as well.

relayer

09-03-2004, 05:34 AM

welshy - I would like those cad drawings thanks (including the chassis/top deck) :)

Would be interesting to compare them with what I'm working on. My current designs are based on more hole positions for the shocks so that the car can be dialled in better on a wider variety of tracks/surfaces etc.

Once you 've got them you can email them to me at:

relayer AT bigpond DOT net DOT au

I'm only working on 2D stuff at the moment, once I've mastered the 3d stuff I'll have a go at suspension pivot blocks etc

cheers :D

welshy40

09-03-2004, 09:38 AM

relayer - it may take a few days but the shock mounts are far superior than than whats being used- handling wise, but I have modified them as you can see in the pictures I have posted. The Cad drawings only have three camber holes, but as you can see I have added more holes.

DooM

09-09-2004, 12:26 PM

Hi there,

Wheels: Those wheels discussed a few weeks ago might, as welshy said before, be Lazer 2000 wheels (LZ-23). A little picture:
http://www.kyosho.de/shop_image/product/85a1b6005053d08be8859944ee269aa5.jpg

Spider parts: I tried the Kyosho Spider TF3 Front gearbox with the lazer. The diff fits but nearly all the holes are positioned wrong for the lazer.. No chance using this parts without redesigning the chassis, radio plate.. So I think it is not reasonable to use spider parts with the lazer :(
If somebody wants to try himself (the TF-4 version parts) the part numbers for the spider series:
Spider TF-3 (http://www.ersatzteilhandbuch.de/downloads/tf3chassiskitep.pdf)
Spider TF-4r (http://www.ersatzteilhandbuch.de/downloads/tf4rchassiskitep.pdf)

aluminium rear upper deck mount: In a german rc forum someone is working on his own little aluminium foundry.
As soon as he finished his foundry and his parts are tested from a bunch of other forum members, I will send him the rear upper deck mount. If everything works well we perhaps get this part again.
He might also be able to anodise them in nearly any color. :)

Gearboxes: Is someone working on new gearboxes? Perhaps some of the ZX-S owners could provide us with some detail shots or even make some shots in disassembled state? The ZX-S manual doesn´t satisfy me :)

Links: Collected some links (not only from this thread), perhaps it is usefull to summarise them

bodyshells
http://www.penkarc.com/
http://www.dahms-intl.com/

cfk&custom parts
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

stock parts
language: en
http://www.towerhobbies.com
language: de
http://www.a1-modellbau.de
http://www.cmc-versand.de
http://www.kyosho.de

ratio-chart
Click (http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/ZX-Gearratio.pdf)

manual/exploded view/spare parts list
Lazer ZX-S Partlist @ kyosho.jp (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/30075_lazerzx_evo_p.pdf)
Lazer ZX-S manual @ kyosho.jp (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/30075_lazerzx_evo_m.pdf)
Lazer 2000 exploded view @ ersatzteilhandbuch.de (http://www.ersatzteilhandbuch.de/downloads/30921lazer20004wdep.pdf)
Lazer ZX-RR manual part 1 @ radiocotrolzone.com (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=956928&postcount=73)
Lazer ZX-RR manual part 2 @ radiocotrolzone.com (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=956928&postcount=74)

I don´t know if it is allowed to scan an freely distribute Kyosho manuals, but if so I could scan and upload some more (alpha, zx, zxr manuals, some exploaded views..) Have to email kyosho about that, I think.

At last I dare to ask if it would be possible to get those cad drawings, too. I´ve got 3 Lazer Alphas which could need a little tuning :)

Greetings
DooM

relayer

09-10-2004, 12:58 AM

Doom-

I sent those instructions, I just hope you've got cable because it's a 4mb email :eek:

Those wheels pictured aren't the same ones as on my car, plus I think Lazer 2000 wheels are only 2 inch diameter, not the 2.2 inch required for modern tyres.

I can send you some cad drawings of what I've been working on, though they aren't 100% ready yet. You will need autocad to view them as they are dwg or dxg files.

Alternatively I could send them to you as a scanned jpeg, but this would only be good to see what they look like, it's not accurate enough to use for fabricating new parts.

I ran my Lazer for the first time in ages last weekend, and I was really impressed with some of the changes I've made. I don't remember the car ever going this well.

The next thing I'm working on is getting rid of the standard spur gear. Welshy has already mentioned how you can use the Hyper clutch from the ZXS (I think) - could you post pics of it and part numbers? And does it fit on the standard ZXR layshaft or is a new one required?

I have another alternative here that I'm going to test soon which involves using RW spurs with Traxxas slipper pegs. RW make gears in 99, 101, & 103 teeth, perfect for the lazer.

relayer

09-10-2004, 01:03 AM

This is a link to those slipper pegs, they are made out of the same material as the std ZXR slipper pads.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJK92&P=0

welshy40

09-10-2004, 04:56 AM

Doom - I have redesigned the ZX and listed all the parts and pictures - so check them out, as my ZX is the best 4wd handling car I have ever driven (the changes improved the car dramatically and the weight was on the limit (perfect). Read all the changes especially the TF4 parts I have used.

Relayer - did you get my cad drawings? Right I did list the part numbers for the slipper clutch, so you will have to find it. Basically the parts I used were fromn the 2wd Ultima Type R slipper (they have two designs - one with two holes for Kyosho spurs and schumacher, and the other is Kimbrough and RW). It fits onto the hyper drive slipper clutch but I cant see it not fitting the ZX/zxr system.

I have tried the peg system and before you try it dont waste your time as its not very good.

These are the part numbers that are needed to improve your slipper to use Kimbrough/ other spurs, but get both plates as the holes are set further apart on one of them.

Doom - the blueunicrank is a must for the Lazer as it stops bump steer, so a worthy investment from Tower hobbies. Also front gearboxes - well I have a contact who is trying to figure out how to make a mold for the front gearbox for the Lazer zx/zxr/zxrr. When he figures it out I will let you know.

RW98 x 1 Rw Spur gear 98T
Z-K/39655 x 1 Special Unicrank (Blue)
Z-K/LA11 x 11 Drive Pulleys ZX/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA118 x 1 Hyper disk Plate
Z-K/LA119 x 1 Hyper clutch Thrust Set
Z-K/LA55 x 3 Main Shaft Lazer ZXR
Z-K/LA59 x 3 Fr Hub Carrier (7 Deg) ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/UM123 x 1 Hyper clutch Slipper Pad
Z-K/UM124 x 1 Hyper Clutch Tensioner Spring
Z-K/UMW305 x 1 Hyper clutch Lightened Disk Plate
Z-K/WBD04 x 2 Slipper Plate ZXR Ball Diff

I hope this makes sense, if not let me know.

DooM

09-10-2004, 05:10 AM

relayer - Thanks for the manual :) I couldn´t wait any longer and downloaded it just this morning from the kyosho.jp page (link postet above). I hope sending it didn´t trouble you too much, downloading was no problem at all :)

If you want to try the Lazer ZX-S hyperclutch you might get it directly of kyosho (.de only?). The parts you need (apart from some washers and screws) are LAW-12 (79€) (http://www.kyosho.de/?ps_session=756f730c5c39322776c599f7c6e01756&page=shop%2Fproduct&category_id=0&mod_title=product&search=law-12&sendsearch.x=0&sendsearch.y=0) and LA-119 (9.90€) (http://www.kyosho.de/?ps_session=756f730c5c39322776c599f7c6e01756&page=shop%2Fproduct&category_id=0&mod_title=product&search=la-119&sendsearch.x=0&sendsearch.y=0).

The only things not available at kyosho.de are those slipper pads (LAW-20.1) and the center oneway (LA-116), but I think those slipper pads were seen at tower somewhere in this thread, leaving the oneway and the money the only problem.

I once saw this lazer at ebay.de and saved the pictures, because the rear mount with integrated heatsink (not the self made belt tensioner) caught my eye :) I do not know where he got those parts and didn´t ask :/ But I do think that it could be a useful hop-up (like welshy´s heatsink)

http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/ebay-lazer01.jpeg
http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/ebay-lazer02.jpeg

I would like too see some of those cad drawings you are working on, so I can give those freeware 2D CAD progs a try :)

Where we are with the topic:
Living in the US http://www.emachineshop.com/ could be worth a try to get some custom parts, but I do not know whether they are high in price, because shipping to germany would be too expensive, so I did not tried to get more informations.

Last, but not least a pic of my Lazer like it was the day I received it :)
http://knaeuel.stw-bonn.de/rc/mylazer-1.jpg

welshy40

09-10-2004, 05:37 AM

Doom - that looks quite a good design on the top deck on your ZXR. The chassis is different as well - looking good. But the steering needs work so get the blue unicrank I listed as its a vast improvement. And then the new shock mounts which I posted not long ago are a copy from the ZX-S ones - well with slight improvements in strengthening and looks improves the handling big time.

But if you move the servo closer to the belt (i have explained how to do this earlier) using associated B2 servo mounts the weight is more central on the chassis and better balanced, however you cannot use the outer top deck pole as the servo is sitting over the hole.

Oh yes the slipper pad part you listed differ from what I posted above your mail - LA116 should be UM123. Look on Tower hobbies web site as you can see what they are - I bought them and they worked fine. But the part number for the whole Hyperclutch unit (all but the spur) is LAW12

relayer

10-01-2004, 03:47 AM

I've been in contact with fibrelyte in the UK to see how much my new carbon parts are goung to cost.

I only sent them a shock tower to see if my cad drwings were good enough (which they said were excellent :) )

Unfortunately, it's going to cost me around 16 pounds, a bit much for one tower, I'd hate to think what they'll charge me for the new chassis :eek:

I'll have to look around here in oz to see if I can find someone who can make them a bit cheaper.

The new chassis design looks good so far, I've narrowed it a bit as the cells are moved much closer to the centre line, just about touching the belt. I've also incorperated a 10 degree kickup plus moved the servo position and elarged the cell slots similar to the Yokomo SSG touring car.

spud

10-02-2004, 12:17 PM

gents a heads up academy sb sport wheels are 2.2 inch dia avalible in yellow and white and fit the kyosho as have same size hexes.
there only 3.25 a pair here in the uk.

relayer

10-04-2004, 05:49 AM

gents a heads up academy sb sport wheels are 2.2 inch dia avalible in yellow and white and fit the kyosho as have same size hexes.
there only 3.25 a pair here in the uk.

Yes but their offset is different. If you use them on the lazer then you will be making the car narrower.

YR4Dude

10-05-2004, 02:54 PM

Guys,

I just checked section on hot new items and there is a new Lazer ZX-5! Go to it and check it out. If any of you have more info on it, please post it here as well as the other thread. From what they said about it, they're using shaft drive with components from the FW-05. Not sure if the suspension components are interchangeable with the old Lazers but that would be interesting to find out.

relayer

10-06-2004, 07:14 PM

The suspension arms are from the old Lazer, that's about it. This car has actually been around for a while. 2 or 3 made the A-Main of this years Japanese Nationals.

I don't understand why they've made the rear shock tower, wing mount section so complicated. Anyway, I've got heaps of pictures if anyone wants them.

Dyingslow

10-06-2004, 11:04 PM

I think I can speak for many of us... Let's see those pictures!

relayer

10-07-2004, 12:36 AM

Okay ;)

relayer

10-07-2004, 12:39 AM

Another..

relayer

10-07-2004, 12:40 AM

And another..

relayer

10-07-2004, 12:41 AM

Yet another..

relayer

10-07-2004, 12:44 AM

More..

relayer

10-07-2004, 12:45 AM

I have a few more that are too big to post here, I might resize them soon.

YR4Dude

10-08-2004, 12:56 PM

Looking at those pictures, it doesn't seem like this would be a "production" prototype. Many of the parts seem like it is made only for prototype use only.

For example:
Rear Aluminum suspension pin holder
Delrin diff outdrives
Carbon fiber wing mount

Also, those shocks look BIG. Are they 1/8 scale units? If not, any idea about them being externally adjustable in damping firmness? Lastly, Lastly, how closely would the production unit resemble this prototype? (How much of it will be plastic?)

Relayer - do you have any pictures showing how the diff cases can be accessed? Will be similar to like a Yokomo SD diff bulkhead? Thanks for the pics.

relayer

10-09-2004, 04:56 AM

I don't have any pics that clearly show diff access, however, i understand that the diff housings are already used in a Kyosho 1/10 gas road car, the Fw04/05 something or other. You might be able to find the instructions for that car on Kyosho's website.

I think the rear wing mount is interesting, by having the wing mount on a seperate plate to the rear tower, you can space the plate differently to move the wing forwards or backwards.

Thsi car looks close to a production car to me, no one anodizes prototype alloy pieces, I think all that blue alloy stuff comes from that gas car I mentioned.

I will do a little more digging around and see what I can find out.

relayer

10-09-2004, 05:13 AM

Back again..

The diff housings are definately from the FW-05 gas car. The plastic shock tower mounts that sit on top of the diff housings are also from this car. The diff loads in from the top - which means it's harder to get to but easier to adjust backlash.

I can't work out where they got the blue alloy camber link mounts - they LOOK like they come from the HPI Pro4 tourer?

WhiteRabbit

10-11-2004, 11:20 PM

Hello,

Welshy 40

This one looks like the James Instone Version,

Check within fibre-lyte.

By the way,the latest is this one ? The James Instone Version ?

I've noticed that the chassis is kinda narrow,

Plus the battery holders i doubt they're gonna fit,and the top deck 1 needs some holes where the towers for the steering link attach,what do you think ?

Farewell

relayer

10-18-2004, 06:59 AM

White Rabbit-

Welshy isn't on this forum too much any more as he's sold his Lazer stuff I believe.

His top deck design doesn't use steering posts that attach to the top deck, that's why there's no holes for them. You could always put them in later yourself.

welshy40

11-05-2004, 10:07 AM

White Rabbit - Welshy40 and James are the same person. But please explain as Im not seeing any piccys. Am I right in thinking the Hansel guys have managed to post all of my designs? If so there is going to be more soon as Im having the pivot blocks done and then my job is done.

I am hardly on this site now but any questions re the car and parts to improve it just ask and when im next on line will answer.

Ken - email me your address, you have my hotmail address still?? if not send me a PM so I can send you the items that I owe you.

relayer

11-20-2004, 03:50 AM

Well since there's been no action on this thread I'd thought I'd post a bit of news.

Long time AE driver Mark Pavidis has now joined Kyosho for ALL scales! He was already sponsored by Kyosho for 1/8th gas but has now signed for them for the electric classes as well - this means 2wd and 4wd off road plus touring cars.

That confirms to me that Kyosho will be bringing out both the new shaft drive Lazer (ZX-5) and it's touring car sibling (TF-5)!! Great news.

Lazerfan1

11-20-2004, 12:11 PM

IT has been a long time since I've posted but my project of turning my Lazer ZXS into an indestructable piece of art and machinery it just may be finished by the time that the Lazer-5 will come out and then My Lazer ZXR will become a shelf queen. I can't wait to see if they also come out with a new Buggy and a New Truck. As my Ultims ST and RB type r's are still running strong and are still very competitive at my Local track against the Losis and the Associateds. I might even try out the touring car sceen and retire the TC3 that my wife has! Later for now>>>>>>>>> and if there is any new news post it as soon as possible!

welshy40

11-23-2004, 09:49 AM

WhiteRabbit - ok now I have time to explain. Firstly the top deck doesnt have holes for the steering linkage as its not needed (please read all I have posted as it is explained properly). You can get other steering posts that have an e clip top section so the top deck doesnt need to support it, or you can cut a section off the poles and use a flat head type screw to bolt the steering parts on. This actually helps improve the efficiency of the drive train.

The chassis is very narrow and fits the ZX-S body shell perfectly. I use schumacher battery starps (the thin narrow plastic ones) as it saves weight and space. This chassis redefines the overall handling of this car, and have proven that this design is far superior compared to the standard design. I also moved the servo further inwards so it almost touches the belt when the servo horn is on, making it more central and improving the handling.

I have posted pictures for you all to see so read through all and you will see I have explained every change I have tried and tested, from the day the ZX was brought out, to now.

WhiteRabbit

11-27-2004, 04:57 PM

Hi there,

Pardon my late response but i couldnt get online.

Yes,i was refering to these parts,as for the "same person" sorry i didn't know it was you.Thanks for your response.

I've seen few of these parts in the fibre-lyte.

I got a prototype myself and these days i was working on it.It's in mint condition but since i was out of RC in general for over ~8 years now i quit everything.I only need batteries and a receiver which is coming in,in few days.

What are you guys racing ?

Is Kyosho working on a new 4wd off road buggy ? If yes what's it's name ?

All you can find around these days is losi/yokomo in electric 4wd off road buggies.

I'm new around here and i've discovered this very forum and you all the time i 1st wrote you.

Take care you all and have fun.

Farewell.

go1d1e

12-02-2004, 10:27 PM

What happened to the pics?

Ultima Pro XL

12-07-2004, 08:33 PM

Will ZX-S front shock towers fit on a ZX-R? Tower still has them for the ZX-S but I don't want to spend $19.00 on them if they wont fit my car. I've never seen a ZX-S in person so I don't know what it looked like.

welshy40

01-02-2005, 06:50 PM

WhiteRabbit - Well Fibre Lyte have taken all of my designs and are all available. For some reason I cannot understand why the servo mount and L braces are not under my name as well, seeing as I had to send all styles to them to copy, mind you I was the first person to use the servo mount in carbon fibre (in 1989). But cant really grumble as the quality and customer service is awesome.

If you want to post a few pictures when I get time I can give you some pointers, that is if you havent already picked up hints from what I have already posted.

For instance the way I have moved the servo further into the chassis, and the movement of the cells to improve the handling.

I also had the first tub chassis for the lazer, when the ZX car had not long been released, and if I can get them to post my design, I seriously recommend buying it.

I also reckon buying a set of Traxxas TRX 1 shocks as the option house items are awful.

I have Traxxas warehouse details if you want them, and can pay over the phone. If you get both of those items I have a set up that has won me numerous events in rainy conditions (including 2 iches of rain - my car was a boat), dusty surfaces, and normal grass. The setup was so good that for indoor carpet racing all I did was to swop the oil around and hey presto job done.

Kyosho is using a shaft drive - a few of us have already posted the pictures, so if you havent seen I think you should work your way here from page one.

I think the car is the ZX5, but I havent talked to my contact in Japan in a while. But I am guessing Lazerfan or the other guys will have more info than me.

Sorry if I went on a bit, but I do get carried away a bit sometimes.

Later

relayer

02-17-2005, 05:02 AM

Posting this so I can link to it!

No it's not a Lazer but it's damn good!

kylelucas

02-17-2005, 09:42 AM

Hello Lazer fans-

I was wondering if anyone in this forum had any interest in a new built (new ran) Kyosho ZXS Evolution?

Moderators: If there is interest I will move this offer to the For Sale/Trade Forum and make it official.

I am located in Detroit and folks can check my Ebay feedback history for purchasing confidence.

After reading this forum - I can see that there are many many fans out there that would appreciate such a great buggy far more than I.

Best Regards.

kylelucas

02-17-2005, 12:26 PM

Another Pict

relayer

02-17-2005, 02:44 PM

How much do you want for it??

kylelucas

02-17-2005, 04:20 PM

Interested parties can contact me via email at kydawg1@yahoo dot com .... I do not have a number thought of yet.

kylelucas

02-21-2005, 04:06 PM

How much do you want for it??

I am going to put up in the Sell Forum for $325 shipped in the Continental US. If outside, $325 + Shipping/Insurance at cost.

*** More pictures upon request.

welshy40

02-22-2005, 03:25 PM

Relayer - thats old news, I thought I posted that picture already on this site, as there were several conversions that the Japanese Kyosho team did for testing.

relayer

02-22-2005, 11:28 PM

Relayer - thats old news, I thought I posted that picture already on this site, as there were several conversions that the Japanese Kyosho team did for testing.

Yeah I know, I was just posting it so I could link to it from another forum that you cant post pictures on. ;)

fabolousRC

04-05-2005, 06:39 AM

any suggestion of what kind of oil weight to put on fronts and the rears for the old goldies for a ZX-R. I think I'll have some time to put it up finally :D

welshy40

04-28-2005, 03:33 AM

It all depends on the surface. The best bet is to start with single hole pistons and 30wt all round, basically runnning the car and changing the setup from there until its correct for yoru style of driving. Eg, if its to soft on the front up the oil by 5 or 10 wt etc etc.

Oh by the way the reason Im on here is I have finished developing my pivot blocks, at last.....and Fibre-Lyte have the designs. You may find that they havent been posted yet, and there is a possiblity that not all designs will be shown. When I get a chanc I will do some pics so you can email the pics of the ones you want when you want them. It may be a while due to my computer going to computer heaven.

I will also post details on what is needed to be done to them to make them fit. But now you neednt worry about having to search every where for these items.

I am currently sending Lazerfan a set so he can give more of a low down later this year (if all goes well in Iraq).

Later Guys.

bigsmitty23

05-22-2005, 05:38 PM

DooM

06-03-2005, 07:46 AM

i am in bad nee for front diff cover on a alfha lazer i have been to a couple shops and they tell me kyosho doesnt make them. i really need some help i am new at all this and i just want my part so i can get my buggy back in the dirt

Bad luck, the lazer alpha front diff cover, is one of the most wanted spare parts . Neither the alpha front diff cover, nor the front diff cover of the other lazers ist still produced and sold by kyosho, iirc. Only chance is to try out ebay, but they are very rare and the market sets the (high) price.

I´d like some details of those carbon, aluminium constructions used in the lazer zx-s. Maybe they could be altered and "reproduced" to fit to "normal" lazers.

Greets
DooM

Lazerfan1

06-14-2005, 04:10 PM

Hey all you Lazer fans! What do you all think of th all new Lazer5 that Mark Pavidis just used on the worlds warmup? I want one and I don't think that it will be too long before it will be in production and here in the states! I believe that the BIG K is after another world title again and they will not stop at nothing! I saw in the June Rccaraction Mag that they had a belt driven prototype that looked like that old lazer ZXS! But I like that version of the shaft drive much better! With that fact that Mark Pavidis qualified with this new version! it looks Awsome! Let me know what you think!!!!!!!!!

Especially you Welshy40!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

relayer

06-16-2005, 01:27 AM

The new Lazer looks superb :)

A quick look reveals that it is certainly nearing production standard.

I suppose comparisons between it and the BJ4x4 are inevitable but the Lazer is better in 3 important areas.

Firstly, Kyosho have managed to move the front shock tower far enough back so that the shocks can bolt on to the front of the tower (much better looking than the Bj4x4 way) whilst still being behind the forward line of the front tyres.

Secondly, Kyosho have reduced the frontal area of the chassis, both underneath the front gearbox and in the area just in front of the servo - this will prove to be a help with handling on rough tracks.

Finally, having the moulded chassis makes the underneath of the car smoother, plus better protection for the cells and electronics.

I have seen another prototype that uses a moulded top deck and shock towers - lets hope they decide to go with the carbon fibre for those parts.

:D

Lazerfan1

06-16-2005, 08:30 AM

I agree hole heartedley! I just cant wait to get one! I'm still curious about the dual belt driven one that was in the RC Car Action one thou! Which one will it be? I sure hope it would be the shaft drive one! Later for now....

relayer

06-16-2005, 04:06 PM

Can you post a picture of that 2-belt Lazer?

I know that at the Cactus Classic earlier this year Pavidis was using a modified ZX-S Evo Lazer - perhaps that's the car in the photo :confused:

Lazerfan1

06-16-2005, 06:06 PM

Hey Relayer I would love to post a picture of the 2 belt dirve system but right now I do not have access to a digital camera! Since I'm here in Rota Spain and I work 7 days a week and that is from 0400 in the morning till 900 oclock at nigth right now. All I can go off of is the Rc Caraction magazine that I just bought! IT is the june issue! IT looks like an old Lazer ZXS Evo but I'm not quite sure if it is or not due to the size of the picture! Well I just got off the flight line a little while ago and it is 1206 at night and it just turned to June 17th so I must go and get some sleep since I need to go to work again at 0400! Later to all you Lazer Fans! Till next time!!!!!!!!!!!!!

relayer

08-15-2005, 12:59 AM

Just to update you Lazer fans on what has been happening..

The worlds have been run and won, and unfortunately none of the new Lazer ZX5's made the A-Main.

However, Mark Pavidis was in the B-Main with Jeremy Kortz in the C-Main. Not bad considering their lack of track time this year.

Were it not for a dnf in the last round of qualifying, Mark would've been in the "A".

He also hinted that the car will be released before the end of the year, with just a couple of parts needing re-designing. The car he drove at the worlds was very much production-spec. Pics can be seen on the orion site here (www.teamorion.com)

BTW the 2wd ran pretty well too :)

relayer

09-07-2005, 12:43 AM

Well, it's finally here... the new LAzer ZX5 :cool:

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/buggy/ep4wdracing/laser_zx5/laser_zx5-j.html

hardadz

09-10-2005, 02:48 AM

go to www.evolutionhobbies.com if you want to preorder/prepay for a zx-5 for early october release!!go to there site and hit the "my store" button to enter there online store!

www.evolutionhobbies.com

Atesz

09-23-2005, 08:04 AM

HI!
I need a little help. I bought a car this week.I know, that this is a Kyosho Lazer, but not the exact type of it.Here is two pictures:
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5463/resizeofdsc018558iv.jpg
http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/1336/resizeofdsc018536wi.jpg
So if someone could tell me what is this, i would be very happy.
Oh, and if anyone have a scan from the manual, then please send it to me.
Thx.:Atesz

cwginkc

09-23-2005, 07:33 PM

Looks like the original ZX.

Atesz

09-25-2005, 12:06 PM

Nobody have an instruction manual for that?I have some missing parts, and trouble building it, so pleeease.

cwginkc

09-25-2005, 12:22 PM

Call Great Plains, I got a copy of the ZXS manual for about $7 from them.

marwankw

09-28-2005, 03:56 PM

fastcar77

10-16-2005, 08:07 AM

does anyone know where i can get front arms for my lazer zx?

fastcar77

10-16-2005, 08:14 AM

Hi,any idea where i can get front arms for my lazer zx?

adam lancia

10-16-2005, 10:39 AM

i've probably got a pair but i have to check the condition of them. i still race my lazer on occasion so they could be a little used. i'll let you know in a couple of days, cool?

YR4Dude

10-16-2005, 01:43 PM

Hi Guys,

Wow!! This thread has really grown. Anyways to those of you who are inquiring, I have parts. Send me a PM of what you're looking for and I'll let you know.

I just picked-up the new ZX-5 so I'll be spending time on that. I've decided to just keep the Lazers I have now as museum pieces. I might also decide to let go of one ZXR (used of course)

Its great to see this thread go on for this long. Keep it up guys.

fastcar77

10-17-2005, 06:55 PM

Thanks,would be gratefull if you could check, would like to get it back running again.Its a good old car!

fastcar77

10-17-2005, 07:01 PM

dont have any part nos sorry,just know that i need 2 front arms for lazer zx.

Key

10-17-2005, 09:34 PM

Just put an order for the beautiful Lazer ZX-5. Anyone know if at least some or most parts can be interchangeable with its older brothers?

marwankw

10-18-2005, 12:22 PM

dont have any part nos sorry,just know that i need 2 front arms for lazer zx.

Suspension arm set is kyosho part number LA-26

marwankw

10-18-2005, 12:29 PM

dont have any part nos sorry,just know that i need 2 front arms for lazer zx.

check ebay item no. 6006091944 it contains the suspension arm set LA-26 for Lazer ZX/ZXR

YR4Dude

10-19-2005, 05:02 PM

Just put an order for the beautiful Lazer ZX-5. Anyone know if at least some or most parts can be interchangeable with its older brothers?

Got one just last week. From what I see of it, none of is same as the old Lazer. As for the suspension arms, they're different but I am not sure if it will fit. Most likely it will with a little shimming and trimming. The ZX-5 borrows a few parts from the previous TF4 touring car like the hubs, hub carrier and steering knuckle. Even the axles look the same as the ones from the KX-One except longer of course however, they're prebuilt unlike the KX.

I might think about getting another one and make it into a tourer. However, if any of you out there are looking to use parts from this new car to save your old ones, don't bother.

Key

10-19-2005, 10:03 PM

Thanks for clearing up the parts compatibility concern YR4Dude. It's was on my mind for a while

KIM HYUN JIN

11-03-2005, 09:19 PM

Hi,any idea where i can get front arms for my lazer zx?
LAZER' arms are same thing with inferno10, zx, zxr, zxrr, zxs and zxs-evo.

And you can use optima' arms too...

so many parta are in the world.

Kyosho did not get them out in their company...

Good luck!!!

YR4Dude

11-13-2005, 08:02 PM

Its great to see all the continued interest in the Lazer belt drive despite the release of the new ZX5 shaft drive. Everytime I check back it always within the top 20 and its all because of all your interest.

I want to talk about one page back in regards to Kylelucas and the ZXS Evo. Is it still available? and how much?

Also I recall some many pages ago that somone else had a Lazer ZXS that sported a modular chassis in which the front end was separate of the main chassis. Anyone can comment on this and post a pic?

Lastly, those of you out there that were fortunate to have or own a rare Lazer ZXS (not Sport) but the one after the ZXR, (in other words, the special Japan only made to order kit.), could you please post pics of your car? Also if you ran yours and have also picked up the new ZX5 could you comment on how the two compare (old vs. new; belt vs. shaft)

Thanks to everyone for all your contributions to this thread. Perhaps maybe the popularity of this thread may have lead to the Lazer's revival.

KIM HYUN JIN

11-14-2005, 02:59 AM

Hi, I have lazers, zxrr, zxs, zxs-evo
So I can give you every info about lazers.
zxrr and zxr
zxs and zxs-evo
I can not use photoshop program so I can not list picture to this forum.
I must make down the picture in size. :p
I can give yor every pictures about lazers
If you let me know your E-mail add.
If you give me more simple question, I would give you every info...
thanks for neverending interest about lazers

Its great to see all the continued interest in the Lazer belt drive despite the release of the new ZX5 shaft drive. Everytime I check back it always within the top 20 and its all because of all your interest.

I want to talk about one page back in regards to Kylelucas and the ZXS Evo. Is it still available? and how much?

Also I recall some many pages ago that somone else had a Lazer ZXS that sported a modular chassis in which the front end was separate of the main chassis. Anyone can comment on this and post a pic?

Lastly, those of you out there that were fortunate to have or own a rare Lazer ZXS (not Sport) but the one after the ZXR, (in other words, the special Japan only made to order kit.), could you please post pics of your car? Also if you ran yours and have also picked up the new ZX5 could you comment on how the two compare (old vs. new; belt vs. shaft)

Thanks to everyone for all your contributions to this thread. Perhaps maybe the popularity of this thread may have lead to the Lazer's revival.

KIM HYUN JIN

11-14-2005, 03:08 AM

zxs has 3mm carbon chassis and 2mm upper desk, frp schok towers
and carbon rear diff case, and use same beltpully
and has same arm, hubs, front knuckles, same uni drive shafts(F and R)
and has kick up angle in front part of chassis by bending the carbon chassis.
but It is not strong for jump.
Long front belt and rear belt bended by belt tentioner, so motor position was moved to backward than zxr.
and has poli front upper arm that has short turn buckle
and has losi schocks, titan coated shaft.
price was about 500dollars in japan price.

next time I will say about zxs-evo etc
bye

Hi, I have lazers, zxrr, zxs, zxs-evo
So I can give you every info about lazers.
zxrr and zxr
zxs and zxs-evo
I can not use photoshop program so I can not list picture to this forum.
I must make down the picture in size. :p
I can give yor every pictures about lazers
If you let me know your E-mail add.
If you give me more simple question, I would give you every info...
thanks for neverending interest about lazers

Micha_MX4

11-16-2005, 02:00 PM

HI Kim,

cool that you have all these beauties :rolleyes:

You can use irfanview (www.irfanview.com) to downsize pictures
by using the pulldown menu "image" -> resize where you can click on
the desired size and then safe the picture.

I still have my ZX-RR with carbon chassis and I was lucky to get hold
on sway bars which I will add over the x-mas holidays.

Bye,
Mike

Lazerfan1

11-24-2005, 09:26 AM

Hey to all you Lazer fans I just want to say Happy Thanksgiving!!! And a big WHOOOORA! FOR THIS thread turning over 600 replies of wonderful information on this Awsome car that I have been infactuaded with since its birth!! Even as the Lazer has evolved into shaftdrive we still love it don't we??? I know I can't wait to get one of the New ZX5!!!!!!! So eat a lot of Turkey and have a great day and Be thankful that Kyosho has made such a great car!!!! Later from Ken...

Ideal

11-26-2005, 09:03 PM

I just got my ZX-5, I have to say the box looks really cute.
It's absolutely the smallest kit box I have ever seen for a racing buggy, and that's no joke :o

I've got a QC2 esc and my 3pk handy, so that's going towards the build, and I'm sure I've got an LRP 12 turn here somewhere.

I'm really excited about this build, will post pictures later this week :)

KIM HYUN JIN

12-06-2005, 09:38 PM

I made the belt tentioner for front with bearings.

It has good shocks. not gold but ultimate shocks very smooth...

KIM HYUN JIN

12-06-2005, 10:00 PM

I made the belt tentioner for front with bearings.

It has good shocks. not gold but ultimate shocks very smooth...

It is Total chassis !!

KIM HYUN JIN

12-06-2005, 10:04 PM

It is Total chassis !!

combo with 2MM carbon plate and aloy pillar!!!

KIM HYUN JIN

12-06-2005, 10:06 PM

combo with 2MM carbon plate and aloy pillar!!!

same parts

KIM HYUN JIN

12-06-2005, 10:09 PM

same parts

strong 2mm blue aloy skid and kyosho titan coated turn buckles!!!

Key

12-07-2005, 07:11 PM

I think we should separate postings for the Lazer ZX5 into a separate thread in order to present better flow of info for all lazer models.

Any recommendations/comments/feedback is appreciated.

K.

doug53

12-08-2005, 09:07 AM

I have an original Kyosho Lazer ZX on eBay at the moment.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kyosho-Lazer-ZX-Original-12-Year-old-Classic_W0QQitemZ6019225556QQcategoryZ2565QQrdZ1QQ cmdZViewItem

Is going to end soon, but may be worth a look. Is pretty old, and somewhat dirty, shabby and in need of some TLC, but is ready to race and is seriously quick!!

bluewire

12-08-2005, 02:36 PM

Too bad, i had some snapshots but the file limit is ~60 kilobyte, is there a way i can show you pictures of 200 kilobytes each ?

I tried converting but it won't drop to 60 which is the attachment limit.

Thanks.

Micha_MX4

12-09-2005, 04:50 PM

Hi bluewire,

you either have to use own webspace and post links here using the
"insert hyperlink" button

or

using irfanview you reduce the dpi to 72 (that's what a screen has) and
resize the pics so that the 100% zoom is the size you want to be.
Save as a jpg and check the kb's.

Should work

good luck

Micha

bluewire

12-10-2005, 08:20 AM

There it is!

bluewire

12-10-2005, 08:24 AM

four

bluewire

12-10-2005, 08:25 AM

five

bluewire

12-10-2005, 08:26 AM

eight

bluewire

12-10-2005, 08:27 AM

nine

bluewire

12-10-2005, 08:29 AM

Well, the others can't be attached, i'll snap some new ones since they don't look that good these either.

Everything is fibre-lyte except the chassis and the steering link.

I'd like to change the black steering stuff right before the steering link ( which they have ball bearings of course added by me ) to the blue more stronger ones that come w/ zx-s or zx-5, anyone knows where to get them ?

( i'm talking about the uni crank stuff )

bluewire

12-26-2005, 11:28 PM

Greetings,

Merry Christmas!

Anyone knows where i can get some wings for my zxr ?

Thanks,

YR4Dude

02-27-2006, 05:03 PM

Kim - thanks for the reply and the pics. I would like to see a pic of the complete evo.

Bluewire - you need smaller electronics, as for a wing you should just consider any wing currently available for other cars like maybe the ZX-5 or any of the Losi 4WD.

I've got a ZX-5 and somehow I still want the belt drive. Does anyone know where I can get a hold of the last version belt drive Lazer. Like the Lazer ZXS EVO etc.?

Funkymojo

03-06-2006, 01:58 PM

Hi guys..anyone knows where i can download the ZX-R instruction manual?Thanks

welshy40

04-05-2006, 02:50 PM

Lazerfan

Long time no speak, and to answer that question, yes the new car is awesome, a bit heavy on one side but heavier set up on one side can sort it.

Kim,

Check out what I added pages back (I think from page 8 onwards), as you can find almost everything you need to strengthen you ZX and moddify it into a world beater, and all out of carbon fibre. Its so strong I broke a YZ10 Yokomo head on (I snapped its wishbone without a scratch to mine.

Keep up the good work

g0202180

04-24-2006, 09:54 PM

:) good news about the body, I just ruined mine trying to get the old paint off so I do need a new one..

I got a set of those tf4 hub carriers but I got the 2 degree version which gives more toe-in on the rear (very handy on our slippery tracks). I've also installed some A&L alloy rear suspension mounts which actually make the car a little wider as the holes for the hinge pins are further outboard.

By running the new hubs with various combinations of A&L and Standard suspension mounts, I can now adjust the rear toe-in from basically 0 up to 4 degrees :D ...a handy new tuning option.

Hellos from Singapore! I saw that this site still has Lazer ZX fans all around! Cool! Hey I've also got an old school Lazer ZX and would like to modify it to the ZXS status. Is that possible?? What parts do I need? kinda new at this, will post some pictures when I can of my ride! And about removing old paint from the bodies, try using paint remover or solvent with high amounts of nitromethane. It works wonders! Seeya all again!! Good thread!!!! :p

g0202180

04-24-2006, 10:13 PM

alka1ine - thats a 7.5 degree castor block, and was made out of Nylon. I doubt you will find these as they were rare when the Lazer was being made. The king pins are surrounded buy a bearing, taking the pressure away from the servo.

The best option is to buy the 7 degree plastic one, as the metal ones can cause more damage if you have a major smash. The plastic number is LA59, and the 7 degree hole is the one that you dont use. Its the other hole which is where my castor block is attached, using the 3mm longer driveshaft. For some daft reason they only put the degree on that one hole.

Lazerfan1 - when you call them, ask if they do the LA31 parts (the metal mount that I have put on this site a couple of times), or how much it will cost to make.

The screws you need are king pins and are at tower hobbies

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU537&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU535&P=7

Im not sure if this is the right one though.

I have just gone through my spares and worked out that I can sell them all for one thousand and fifty pounds, and then I can keep my car. Im tempted to Ebay them all separately, and make sure that I have a minimum requirement so I definately get the money I spent back (Im not after a profit, just the same back for what I paid). Here is what I have, and its all new and never been used.

Part Number Description

RW98 x 1 Rw Spur gear 98T
Z-K/39506 x 2 Ball Diff Complete Set – ZX/Pure Ten
Z-K/39655 x 1 Special Unicrank (Blue)
Z-K/96643 x 1 Shims 5 x 7 (0.1/0.2/0.3) x10 - Rare
Z-K/96644 x 2 Shims 8 x 10 (0.1/0.2/0.3) x10 - Rare
Z-K/LA01 x 4 Diff Case Gear/Ball Type
Z-K/LA04 x 1 Thrust Ball for Ball Diff.
Z-K/LA06 x 3 Rear Drive Hub Lazer ZX
Z-K/LA11 x 11 Drive Pulleys ZX/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA118 x 1 Hyper disk Plate - Rare
Z-K/LA119 x 1 Hyper clutch Thrust Set - Rare
Z-K/LA12 x 11 Rear Drive Belt (S) Lazer Series
Z-K/LA122 x 1 Lazer ZX-S Body set
Z-K/LA122 x 1 Lazer ZX-S Body Set Prof Painted
Z-K/LA13 x 5 Fr Drive Belt Lazer/EP Spi/TF3
Z-K/LA17 x 3 Carbon Fibre Plate Sets
Z-K/LA18 x 3 Motor Plate (L) ZX/ZXR/Sport
Z-K/LA19 x 4 Motor Plate (S) ZX/ZXR/Sport
Z-K/LA20 x 4 Sus Shafts ZX/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR - Rare
Z-K/LA21 x 1 King Pin(L) Inf10/ZX/ZXR/Sport
Z-K/LA22 x 3 Steering Pin Lazers/Super 10
Z-K/LA23 x 1 S.Saver Shaft Laz/EP Spi/Sup10
Z-K/LA26 x 3 Sus Arms Inf10/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA28 x 2 Hub Carrier (R) Inf10/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA31 x 3 Upper Deck Mount Set - Rare
Z-K/LA32 x 3 Front Axle Box - Rare
Z-K/LA33 x 3 Bulkhead (R) ZX/Sport/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LA35 x 3 Gear Cover Lazer Series
Z-K/LA39 x 1 Please Use Z-K/96642 Shim set - Rare
Z-K/LA40 x 1 Shims 8mm Diameter - Rare
Z-K/LA55 x 3 Main Shaft Lazer ZXR
Z-K/LA59 x 3 Fr Hub Carrier (7 Deg) ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/LAW02 x 1 Stabiliser Sport/ZXR/ZXRR
Z-K/OT16 x 3 Knuckle Arm
Z-K/OT19 x 2 Metal Drive Washer Hexagonal
Z-K/OT93 x 3 Bumper - Rare
Z-K/OTW10 x 3 Servo Saver ZXR/EP Spid/Sup10
Z-K/OTW11 x 1 Adjustable Turnbuckle 32mm
Z-K/OTW12 x 1 Adjustable Turnbuckle 40mm
Z-K/UM123 x 1 Hyper clutch Slipper Pad - Rare
Z-K/UM124 x 1 Hyper Clutch Tensioner Spring - Rare
Z-K/UM314 x 1 Spur Gear (86 Tooth) 48DP
Z-K/UMW01 x 4 Wing Stay/Body Mount Various
Z-K/UMW305 x 1 Hyper clutch Lightened Disk Plate - Rare
Z-K/UMW306 x 1 Transponder Holder Ultima Type R
Z-K/W5026 x 3 Wheel Narrow/Yellow Fr 2.2 4WD
Z-K/W5027 x 3 Wheel Yellow/F or R 2.2 4WD
Z-K/W5061 x 2 Uni Swing Shaft ZX/ZXR MkI & 2
Z-K/W5063 x 2 Uni Swing Shaft ZX/ZXR MkI & 2 - Rare
Z-K/WBD01 x 2 Ball Differential Shaft Plate Set - Rare
Z-K/WBD04 x 2 Slipper Plate ZXR Ball Diff
Z-K/WBD05 x 2 Ball Differential Shaft ZX-RR

Oh yeh, if your wondering why I have put rare alongside them, its down to being unavailable anywhere in Europe (thats a couple of items), the rest are unavailable any where in the world like the front gearboxes certain parts of the ball diff, the bumper (I have three new ones - and am aware they have been unavailable for five years), some shim sets, and LA31.

anyone know if any other kyosho belts fit the lazer ZX?? thanks! :confused:

hardrider

04-25-2006, 12:44 AM

Hello,

Great to see Lazer fans!
Can anyone recommend Lazer parts stockist who will ship internationally?

g0202180

04-26-2006, 12:04 AM

Hi all! Just a little tip on how to stop leaks from shocks that have top screw caps. If they leak even after tightening, use those white tapes used for pipes to secure their threads on the thread area of the shocks. That way works very well for me. and the white tape is cheap. and easily available. I've stopped the leak of my super old RC10 GOLD shocks!!! :lol: :p :lol: ;) yeaaaa

g0202180

04-26-2006, 12:08 AM

Hello,

Great to see Lazer fans!
Can anyone recommend Lazer parts stockist who will ship internationally?
hi u also frm Sg? me 2! :p

hardrider

05-03-2006, 01:12 AM

Does anyone have the link to the Razor bodyshell?
I believe it fits the Yokomo YZ10 as well.
Poured thru all 26 pages but couldnt find it.
Either something's wrong with my eyes or it's not here.

hardrider

05-05-2006, 02:54 PM

Found it!!! For anyone else who might need it...
http://www.vansinvent.com/rebuild/vansinventrb/html/d150.html

g0202180

05-08-2006, 08:50 PM

Found it!!! For anyone else who might need it...
http://www.vansinvent.com/rebuild/vansinventrb/html/d150.html
Bro, know where we can get that?? :D

g0202180

06-07-2006, 01:34 AM

Bro, know where we can get that?? :D

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=139642

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=139643

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=139644

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=139645

Here are some pictures of my ZX. :o

KIM HYUN JIN

06-19-2006, 02:28 AM

Greetings,

Merry Christmas!

Anyone knows where i can get some wings for my zxr ?

Thanks,

LAZER ZX-RR uses the same wing of kyosho TR-15 buggy!!!

hardrider

07-10-2006, 02:03 AM

Looking for ZXR front shock tower (LAW6)

This sounds really weird but...I need the one that looks like a letter "H" not the "A" shaped one :D

Anyone has a spare piece lying around?
Any shops to recommend?

Please help...

welshy40

08-05-2006, 05:24 AM

hardrider

Look on the fibre - lyte website as listed by me earlier on in this website they do all types including stronger designs

SkidRow

08-15-2006, 05:10 AM

Hello James!Welcome back!Send you p.m.I'll be happy to hear from you.Manolis

didou60

09-03-2006, 02:14 AM

my lazer zx-rr with many options

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/newlazer/DSCN1452.JPG

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/newlazer/DSCN1453.JPG

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/newlazer/DSCN1461.JPG

and with a full option turbo optima and ultima

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/famillekyosho/DSCN1456.JPG

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/famillekyosho/DSCN1457.JPG

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/famillekyosho/DSCN1458.JPG

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/famillekyosho/DSCN1459.JPG

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/claverie/famillekyosho/DSCN1460.JPG

deity

09-08-2006, 06:08 PM

wow you guys have got some great looking cars, these are all the ones I wanted when I was a kid but could never afford. My first car was an gold RC10 but I always wished that I had picked kyosho. When shopping for a 4wd recently I found that the big K had re-entered the electric offroad game so I picked up a ZX-5, she is a beauty and carries the torch proudly forward as it is a terrific car. I'll post some pics of my new baby.

http://hellville.net/rcraces/zx5/DSCN1102.JPG
http://hellville.net/rcraces/zx5/DSCN1109.JPG

hardrider

10-25-2006, 06:33 PM

hardrider

Look on the fibre - lyte website as listed by me earlier on in this website they do all types including stronger designs

Thank you. Managed to find something locally :)

hardrider

10-25-2006, 06:35 PM

Didou... Very nice and clean ZXRR!
Lazers make me go weak in the knees haha

Brit_bulldog

11-06-2006, 08:50 AM

Hi Peeps :wave:

I know this has been asked already but all the old links seem dead.

Any one got an exploded view for a ZX-R.

Pdf would be best!!

Thanks in advance!!

If it moves race it!!!!!

welshy40

11-10-2006, 12:14 PM

anyone know if any other kyosho belts fit the lazer ZX?? thanks! :confused:

All these parts fit the ZX, ZXR, ZXRR.

fabolousRC

11-19-2006, 11:41 AM

Hi Peeps :wave:

I know this has been asked already but all the old links seem dead.

Any one got an exploded view for a ZX-R.

Pdf would be best!!

Thanks in advance!!

If it moves race it!!!!!

I will scan my manual if I have the time.

Keep looking at this pages at the near future.

Brit_bulldog

11-20-2006, 04:08 AM

Thanks M8 i will look out for your post.

:D

tomstacey

12-07-2006, 04:19 AM

Hello all,

Does anyone (James prehaps) know where I might be able to pick up a Lazer ZXR front Bumper? (OT93).

I've just ordered the James Instone CF kit from Fibre-Lyte. Can't wait to fit it onto my Lazer!

Anyway, if anyone can help, I'd much appreciate it. (I'm in the UK)

Thanks,

Tom

welshy40

12-13-2006, 04:00 PM

tomstacey

12-13-2006, 04:16 PM

Hi James, Thanks for your reply. :)

I'll try those hobby stores in London you mentioned. If not Ripmax may be able to help. By all means email your contact, as my search so far has been pretty futile. :(

I could definitely do with some set-up tips. Currently I'm running the ZXR with diffs front and rear, one way locked up (seems easier to drive that way) and about 25WT shock oil all round on black springs. I have your design front and rear towers on but haven't really experimented with hole positions on these for camber links or shock mounting. I've found Schumacher micro-pins in Yellow compound as the best tyres on our track. (indoor) The chassis is currently the Kit FRP version (not sure if version 1 or 2) as the extra flex seems to make it more grippy indoors.

I'm running a few hop-ups too - Nylon front diff casing, gold alloy front hub carriers and universals all round, the Lazer certainly seems tough (well except the front bumper!) and still as good as anything on the track, so I'm chuffed.

Oh, if anyone knows of a source of undertrays I'd be grateful. I'm not currently running one, but if I take it outdoors in the summer it may be an idea to keep the water out! :)

welshy40

12-13-2006, 04:46 PM

Tom please read inbox

Hi James, Thanks for your reply. :)

I'll try those hobby stores in London you mentioned. If not Ripmax may be able to help. By all means email your contact, as my search so far has been pretty futile. :(

I could definitely do with some set-up tips. Currently I'm running the ZXR with diffs front and rear, one way locked up (seems easier to drive that way) and about 25WT shock oil all round on black springs. I have your design front and rear towers on but haven't really experimented with hole positions on these for camber links or shock mounting. I've found Schumacher micro-pins in Yellow compound as the best tyres on our track. (indoor) The chassis is currently the Kit FRP version (not sure if version 1 or 2) as the extra flex seems to make it more grippy indoors.

I'm running a few hop-ups too - Nylon front diff casing, gold alloy front hub carriers and universals all round, the Lazer certainly seems tough (well except the front bumper!) and still as good as anything on the track, so I'm chuffed.

Oh, if anyone knows of a source of undertrays I'd be grateful. I'm not currently running one, but if I take it outdoors in the summer it may be an idea to keep the water out! :)

Brit_bulldog

12-14-2006, 04:23 AM

Tom, try hobby stores in London, preferably camden town. Ask if they have one there, and if not then try all the other stores, as the amount of old stock is riddiculous. Otherwise do what I did and went through the bumpers in a nitro buggy shop and made on fit, and it was a bit beefier so gave a bit of protection, or get a smaller one (I did both).
You can try hobbystores but i found they have little or no stock of Kyosho spares.

Also try Ripmax and look at their stock list online and you should find the part number, otherwise call them direct.
ERRRR Ripmax do not stock Kyosho!!!!!!!!

Then the last place would be tower hobbies in the states. I may know someone if you have no success, so give me a mail and I will find out for you.
ERRRRRR again tower hobbies do not stock Kyosho!!!!!!

PS. Enjoy the bits you have ordered from fibrelyte. If you need any advice if you get stuck just ask, as if you have any problems I probably had them before you as I had to try and test the designs first before they got posted.

James

Sorry Tom unless you can find a shop which has some old stock (very unlikey) you wont be able to buy this part as it has been discontinued!!!!!

The best advice James gave was to try a different bumper and make it fit.
Or just search for second hand kits. The optima used many similar parts so this cars bumper should fit too.

FYI the distributor in the states is Kyosho USA
FYI the distributor in the UK is Kyosho UK.

tomstacey

12-14-2006, 04:36 AM

Hi chaps.

Yes for now I have an improvised Parma front bumper for the Optima fitted. Its ok, but it fouls the front wishbones, and sticks out a bit too far. Still it offers some front end protection.

Well, if anyone sees a bumper, please let me know.

Cheers,

Tom

adam lancia

12-14-2006, 07:54 AM

tom, i think i know where i can get one but it will be sometime before i'm at that shop again. i'll let you know if i see it.

adam

tomstacey

12-14-2006, 08:58 AM

Thanks Adam! I'll keep an eye on this thread in case you find one. :)

welshy40

12-14-2006, 10:01 AM

Brit Bulldog - yes totally correct, its been a while and ive missed the boat.

Tom,

Im talking to Hobby stores and I will know by monday if my mate has got one seeing that he has a few spares and will sort me out with a bumper if he has one.

Ripmax I made a mistake - sorry. When i used to race and work for them while they were suppling Kyosho, but its all gone Pete tong and I missed it all.

A lot has changed in a short time, tower hobbies I am a bit stunned they have nothing left. Lucky I sent a shell to Penkarc but then again they have now been sold so cannot get a distributor yet for your shell, but I do have a contact in Greece, so will get the low down as to where the molds have gone and get you the address for you.

I will let you know soon mate. Sorry for the mess up

tomstacey

12-14-2006, 04:34 PM

No probs James :)

I spoke to Kyosho Europe, who interestingly can get lots of old spares now, but hardly any Lazer bits. It seems a shame as this lazer is so good indoors, but I'm scared in case I break anything.. :mad:

Shame you can't get hold of the ZX-S Evo anymore in Japan as I'd snap one up in an instant.

Anyway, keep in touch.

Best Wishes,

Tom

tomstacey

12-26-2006, 02:32 PM

Well, I won an undertray on eBay today which is a start, but still no bumper :(

Slowly getting there!!

welshy40

01-02-2007, 03:08 PM

Tom,

Well as im now not able to get hold of a bumper, and boy did I try. Anyway you do realise that if you are having no luck with the bodyshell you can always get the ZX-5 shell and undertray. I mean its basically a ZX-S shell so should fit quite easily, but that will only fit with the slimmer chassis that I designed. Anyway best of luck, and hope you get all the bits and pieces you need

tomstacey

01-02-2007, 04:24 PM

Hey James, thanks for trying though mate! I'm tempted on just going down the full-on ZX5 route anyway, although I doubt they'll be as good indoors as the old ZXR. My shell is ok really, its just that I'd like a spare. Odd how you can get a lot of ZX(R) spares, just not bumpers! I reckon all the optima fans bought them all up... :(

welshy40

01-03-2007, 01:49 PM

Well Tom maybe, but if you spend a bit of time going through other RC buggies (nitros for instance) you may come across quite a few that actually are better looking and protect the front wishbones, that is if you are still using the crappy plastic wishbone holders.

The ZX 5 is a good car but I have proved that the older ZX handles the bumps and ruts better and is also quicker.

But yes you are right indoors there isnt anything that comes close to it, and just for the indoor series I am very tempted to buy my old car back and blow the opposition away and see if I can make the top five in the UK indoor champs again, after all I felt at home on carpet with the ZX, not many people managed to pass it, with exception of Jon Tuckers Cat XLS and Craig Harris with his Boss Cat, but then again Craig pretty much lapped team kyosho with that using Fabiix bateries (awful and soggy they were to) so driving a brick he may have got the same result as he has always been an indoor master, also Jamie Booth wasnt there but the indoor champ Bob Gammon was. Might have been different if Jamie was though, as he made Kyosho look fantastic, winning the nationals with ease.

Old is better especially for Kyosho.

Anyway what about the ZX 5 shell. Its slightly (you can hardly tell) different from the ZX S shell, and should fit quite easily. What is your thought on that.

tomstacey

01-04-2007, 06:03 AM

I've got a ZX-5 shell here. I'll try and fit it on the ZXR later. The only problem i can see is with it possibly being hard to get over the Spur gear cover. I'm sure some creative chopping will work though.

I've heard there is a ZX-5 Mk. 2 shell now, so I might have a look at that and see it has any more clearance.

It is definitely too narrow for the the standard ZXR chassis and undertray. I'm running the standard FRP chassis right now, but may re-fit your Fibre-Lyte carbon version if and when i run the car outdoors. I was finding the Carbon chassis actually reduced grip indoors when fitted! :confused:

Did you get my pics of the ZXR James?

adam lancia

01-09-2007, 08:11 AM

james, any ideas of where alumnium lower arm mounts would be available? thanks,

adam

welshy40

01-10-2007, 04:16 PM

Adam

No for the alloy, but I gave the alloy parts to fibre-lyte.co.uk and they have made them out of carbon fibre. The only problem is that the two innner chassis parts you will need to drill the screw holes as they wouldnt do it as they say that the chances of splitting the sheets are greater. However if you stick it in a clamp and drill the holes in the correct place and the use a bit of super glue to reinforce it, at the same time put a copper sleeve inside for the screw to slide into then I can see no problems. These are light and strong and look the business. I hope this helps.

welshy40

01-10-2007, 04:22 PM

They should be listed as ZX pivot holders under my name on the www.fibre-lyte.co.uk website

adam lancia

01-14-2007, 08:22 PM

thanks james!

tomstacey

01-15-2007, 03:30 AM

Hey Adam, did you have any luck finding a bumper for me? LMK if so. Also, I may have some of those Alu mounts spare when my other Lazer turns up from Singapore. :) That said, the Fibre-Lyte ones are much lighter and I should imagine as strong as the Alu ones.

welshy40

01-15-2007, 04:12 PM

Tom,

Did you get the pictures I sent? What did you think?

I have to say that the carbon fibre front and back pivot blocks will be stronger and lighter. The two inner pivot blocks if you do the drilling correctly and use a pole to reinforce and protect the carbon fibre from the screw then it should be stronger as well as lighter.

adam lancia

01-15-2007, 05:02 PM

tom, no luck on my end, sorry. the shop got rid of a bunch of stuff and i think the bumpers suffered that fate :(

g0202180

01-16-2007, 03:17 AM

Hi all, this might have been answered before, but I can't seem to find the page.

Do any other parts from Kyosho fit the Lazer-ZX?

Especially the 2-belts? I think its part LZ-13 and LZ-14.

I know that some Lazer Alpha parts do fit the Lazer..like LZ-7 and LZ-8.

Any one knows of anyother parts? What about the chassis from Lazer alpha? Will it fit the Lazer-ZX? its plastic but at least its a spare one if I can find it..

Any insight from you folks? Thanks! :)

g0202180

01-16-2007, 03:34 AM

Just sharing.. :)

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5227/lazer1oa1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/253/lazer2ra1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3855/lazer3hh4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/9704/lazer4es5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

tomstacey

01-16-2007, 04:41 AM

Tom,

Did you get the pictures I sent? What did you think?

Hi James,

Your car looked awesome. I particularly like your paint jobs.. much more original than mine!!
Do you still have that car?

I've tried to mimic your setup up as much as i can from the pictures and i had a test run yesterday and the car feels really good. :) I changed my shock oil to 35w and four hole pistons (original gold shocks) which has improved matters even more.

One question though? Is that a ZX5 shell on your ZXR? I take it that will only fit with the Narrow chassis? Also what undertray do you use?

I've also bought another ZX/ZXR hybrid with about 80% new parts so that should keep me in spares for a while!!!

welshy40

01-16-2007, 07:48 AM

Tom,

Thanks for the compliments, yes the paint jobs were good. One was done by the UK Kyosho cup champion Hai Chu, and the other (dragon) was done by a company in the US for me, but I have forgotten the name. Anyway I have sold it and it apparantly is sitting on a display shelf somewhere.

No mate it was a ZX-S but apparantly the shell of the ZX-5 is similar. I had an undertray but yes I see the situation you are going to have if you get the shell as there isnt an undertray - or is there as there is a company that has carbon fibre top deck and chassis that is maybe narrower for the ZX-5 so maybe worth asking them what undertray they use. If I find the site I will let you know.

Glad to help on the setup. Personally I prefered the traxxas shocks but yes you are almost spot on. I found that a fraction of pack in the shock helped (you over fill a bit so that when you fully press the shaft into the shock it pushes itself out a small amount (say 4mm or around that.). I also put two shock rubber seal around the bottom of the shaft so that when you have the spring colloar on the bottom of the shock the rubber seal is positioned ontop of the colloar so that if you do bottom out the seal hits the shock body so the piston does not damage the rubber seal inside the shock.

It may sound a bit stupid but it works and the most valuable asset on your car are the shocks as they aid the way the car works and your driving.

Have you tried a rear roll bar yet? Me I prefered no roll bar indoors as the grip was so high body roll was required, but outdoors on a lower grip track the roll bar aides, all depending on your style of driving.

What surface are you racing on. I found on grass that the rear of the car had to be level whilst sitting on the start line. the front just over level with zero spacing insode the shocks, but obviously the spring spacing to get the car at that level. Personally I prefered schumacher springs (white on the back with no collar but a hlf or quarter spacer, and on the outside holes on the wishbones, and the front I used yellow springs with either a full or half and quarter spacer on and also in the outside holes on the wishbones. The shock tower holes were same front and back, preferably centre or inner and top hole only was used at front and rear. I hope this helps. Oh yeah I also had zero bump steer, just by using the ZX straight steering plate, and if you can get it a 7.5 degree caster block, otherwise the standard 5 degree will have to do.

Rear caster blocks I used the top hole furthest one from the chassis so the highest one above the ball bearing, and the shock mount was on the middle hole most probably I have writen it somewhere or if you can view on the pictures.

Hope this helps

adam lancia

01-19-2007, 08:29 AM

james, i have a question for you: have you ever seen a front diff case with built in bosses for a belt tensioner on the top of the box? what about 3 tensioners in the rear, the third being in the bottom for the diff? i picked up a used lazer on ebay and it has these cases and i've never seen them like this before. thanks!

adam

EDIT: nevermind james, i took a closer look at the rest of my parts and they're all there :rolleyes:

tomstacey

01-19-2007, 09:04 AM

Have you tried a rear roll bar yet? Me I prefered no roll bar indoors as the grip was so high body roll was required, but outdoors on a lower grip track the roll bar aides, all depending on your style of driving.

Hope this helps

Hi James,

Really helpful, thanks mate :D

I haven't got an anti-roll bar to try, but if I find one I'll have a go. To be honest the handling is just about right at the moment. I've bought up a supply of Parma front bumpers too now so I have good front end protection and some spares. I also have a whole spare buggy too although its more ZX than ZXR, but hey, most parts are common.

welshy40

01-20-2007, 04:44 PM

Adam,
I took all of the brass belt tensioners out, and cut the rear of the front gearbox away leaving just the sides. You get a much more efficient car without them. If you have an extra belt tensioner on the chassis I would recommend removing it. The rear bushings dont really do anything except damage the rear belts as they can wear them away and then they snap.

I also found the car was more free running and more efficient when the front belt had stretched just fractionally after a lot of races. I cant explain why but it was. I also used gear diffs on carpet and this was much better than the ball diffs, especially if using bodyroll when the car is almost touching carpet.

I used a 20 up to a 24 pinion on the standard 100t 48 dp spur with a Reedy Mr series 10 double (this was worked on by a specialist that I knew and was much quicker and punchier than the standard version) and using 1400scrs (for a bet) and 1700scrs and lasted but only with the option of having one mistake, otherwise i wouldnt have made the line (the 1400s I had to drive ultra smoothly and geared up using a 24t pinion) otherwise I would use a 22t. It was still faster than todays buggies in a straight line.

I hope this makes sense, I overgeared with the option of only starting once and getting into a consistant rythm and going only half speed on the infield, but was still fractionally quicker than the rest, then blow any one behind me away down the straight. I made sure that if I didnt crash the last few laps would be flat out and finish on a high.

Tom

Use the ZX steering bar, as this stops all bump steer. whoever designed the ZXR made on mistake and that was not leaving the ZX steering alone. It was perfect, and zero bumpsteer is what is nneded. You may have to put motor wahers to zero it out on the ball joints but when its done you will have a more controlable car. This was noticed by quite a few people who I raced against. They couldnt believe that it could be achieved, but just a bit of patience and time you will have the same. Oh yes one more thing make sure you have no toe in or out, but totally straight wheels like on the instruction manual for the steering setup as this helps get it perfect.

welshy40

01-20-2007, 05:00 PM

Adam,

Have a look and you will see what I mean about the front gearbox. Also pay attention to the steering as these parts are for a nitro car and are still available, so I would recommend getting them as they are super strong. I made a mistake as I remember that I spaced the standard steering to get rid of the bump steer, if it was lower or higher I cant remember however these blue parts dont need any (well maybe one washer). But the ZX arm in carbon fibre is available at www.fibre-lyte.co.uk

adam lancia

01-20-2007, 09:37 PM

thanks for the input james. do you happen to remember which car the steering parts fit? i'll try taking the belt tensioners out and see what happens...my only concern is the belts slipping. what did you do for the diffs? i have a bit of a tough time keeping them together and smooth. thanks!

adam

welshy40

01-21-2007, 11:44 AM

Adam,
I found the diffs just need rebuilding (the ball diffs) and using associated diff grease (black for the small thrust race) and the clear for the diff balls. If you give the a good clean I cant see them coming loose, unless the screw and lock nut need replacing, but that shouldnt be too difficult to locate from a Kyosho dealer. Also if they are gear them use a thicker grease and you get to ignoor it for a while. I also used screw lock stuff to keep the allen key screws locked in.

The belts wont slip, but if its just the copper bushings in the gearboxes then you will not get any slippage. I had a lot of time on this and believe it or not but the rear box doesnt really need them at all, and doesnt hit anything in the box anyway. You will see when you try.

The blue bits I think I listed the item number Z-K/39655 x 1 Special Unicrank (Blue) on page 24 which by the way has the better slipper system where you can unscrew your spur gear instead of messing with the slipper settings (it just like the Associated b4 slipper.

Page 21 helps you out with gear ratios by the way and a few other helpful hints.

Also I did use TF4 rear hubs, which I have written about somewhere with the part code. that made the car easier to work with.

adam lancia

01-21-2007, 01:08 PM

i'll talk to my local hobby shop to see if they can get them in. the tensioners are all ball bearings so i wonder if they will decrease the amount of wear on the outside of the belts. i've got one of the hyper disk slippers but i've been running it without the slipper lately...i might put it back on. i'll have a look back to check out the gear ratio's and the other tips. i'm using the tf4 hubs too but the plastic ones...they have a lot of play in them, are the aluminum ones any better? thanks again james,

adam

welshy40

01-21-2007, 05:36 PM

Adam,
Im confused the brass bushings which are placed in plastic moldings (1 in the front gearbox, and several in the rear) and have silver poles going through some of them. they are brass bushings and not bearings. If you have bearings post a picture as this doesnt make sense to me.

I would recommend using the standard layshaft with this slipper clutch. Do not use the big white plastic layshaft as it makes the car totally 4wd and is not very good especially if you want to race it. The hyper clutch is the best thing that this car has ever had and shouldnt be left in your pit box. If you look closely on my pictures of my car you can see the screws holding the spur to the slipper clutch - it is the hyper clutch and is brilliant.

The tf4 hubs are perfect. if you have play do what I did and get some wafer thin washers (preferably ones that go on the motor armature, the little silver ones) and place them on either side of the hub between the wishbone until you have got rid of the play, but also make sure that the hub is still free and not over spaced otherwise it can affect the handling. Also the front hub should be done the same and also look at what i did in the picture I attached on page 27. Front I used a rubber shock seal at the very front of the wishbone, and it totally stopped the play there but left if free to fall without a shock attached. Does all of this make sense to you? Aluminium hubs I have never used, the only aluminum I would recommend is the top deck mounts, all in alloy (the two central items like mine were two poles on either side.) as this reduces heat from the motor.

adam lancia

01-21-2007, 06:22 PM

james, what i mean is the brass bushings (i had seen these before) we replaced by small ball bearings of the same size. they still ride on small silver poles in the same place that the brass bushings did they're just bearings now instead of bushings. i'll post a pic in a minute.

as for the layshaft, i'm using the standard one. yesterday was my first day out with the lazer since i last raced it in 2002. i'm in canada and the track i ran on yesterday actually started to freeze a bit so it was slick. wish i had setup the car with the slipper then.

the play in the rear hubs is between the outside race of the bearings and the hub, almost like the hole that the bearings sit in are slightly larger the the outside diameter of the bearing. thanks for the help james!

adam

EDIT: i added a pic james, hope that helps.

tomstacey

01-22-2007, 04:50 AM

the play in the rear hubs is between the outside race of the bearings and the hub, almost like the hole that the bearings sit in are slightly larger the the outside diameter of the bearing. thanks for the help james!

I have that same play in my hubs Adam. :mad: maybe slightly larger OD bearings might be the answer?

adam lancia

01-22-2007, 07:21 AM

i haven't measured it yet but it's unlikely that there's a bearing that will fit without machining the hubs or making a steel insert that is more of a press-fit and will fit the outside of the bearing tighter. http://www.rckenon.com/public_html/shop2/catalog/index.php has aluminum rear hubs for the lazer zx5 which are the same as tf4/5 hubs. i ordered a pair to see if they're any better. i'll let you know...

welshy40

01-22-2007, 12:08 PM

I never came across the problem (well I cant remember what I wrote on this web site about it)you are having with the rear hubs, but i do recal something that needed work on and it was resolved quite easily, but what it was i cant remember. I always find a solution so I am at a loss. I dont put anything in between the bearings in the hub, and space the driveshaft accordingly so there isnt any play. I would have a look at the inside of the rear bearing hole and see if there are any bits that are in the way. It could be that there is a plastic flange on the rim inside and if thats the case then you will just have to file it down until your bearing fits sweetly. How about having the ZXR hub and TF4 hub alongside each other and just look to see what differences there are between the bearing holder inside and you may well find a solution. I find staring helps as you can then imagine and develop something then and there to make it work. Let me know what happened.

Also I have just had a look at the ZX5 rear hub. It looks just like the tf4 hub so maybe if you cant resolve the tf4 hubs then get the zx5 as it looks similar or if not the same

welshy40

01-22-2007, 12:12 PM

Guys check this site out. I hope it can help some of you out for spares

http://www.goldstarstockists.com/tamiyaparts/tpx/kyosho.htm

tomstacey

01-22-2007, 03:18 PM

Great link! Thanks James :)

Just ordered some belts to have as a spare.

adam lancia

01-22-2007, 10:16 PM

those are the hubs i ordered james, except in orange :D i'll let you guys know if they are a tighter fit. that link to the parts will be very helpful!!!!

welshy40

01-23-2007, 12:20 PM

Guys,

I do recall having the same problem with the hubs. I know I filed something on the inside but cant remember what. I also spaced out the driveshaft as I do think that the TF4 hub may be fractionally narrower which is probably why its happening to you. I thought I wrote what I did somewhere on here, most probably between pages 19 and 21. Anyway hope this helps you out.

Karadjas

01-23-2007, 12:30 PM

Hey there guys!

I've been looking for a cheap 4wd buggy to put my brushless onto for a while, and I may have come across a used ZXR. So, I have some questions...

Firstly, will the drivetrain handle a Feigao 380C-8T on 6 cells? Any mods I'll have to do ?After all, this is the reason I'm looking into it anyway.

Secondly, are the belts a cause for concern? As in, do they wear out prematurely?

I'm looking through the thread right now, Ill repost if anything else comes to mind :D

Thanks

tomstacey

01-23-2007, 12:51 PM

Hi there. Well my 12 year old lazer on original belts handles a 10 double Mod fine so the brushless setup should be ok I guess. As for belts, they are very hard wearing, but spares are available from FDL France so your LHS should be able to order them. I think the Part numbers are LA12 and 13, I'm sure Welshy40 will correct me if I'm wrong as he is our resident Lazer Guru!! :)

Karadjas

01-23-2007, 01:04 PM

Perrrrrrfect so far, I'm in London/Nicosia so getting stuff from France should be a snip.

Another Q... does it take stick packs? Is there room under the top deck to slide one?

tomstacey

01-23-2007, 01:12 PM

Perrrrrrfect so far, I'm in London/Nicosia so getting stuff from France should be a snip.

Another Q... does it take stick packs? Is there room under the top deck to slide one?

Check the link a few posts up for spares if you are in London.. i know for sure they have belts plus many other spares. :)

As for stick packs.. not sure tbh. I think the Lazer ZX Sport used sticks though so you may be ok with the correct battery retaining brackets. i use Schumacher parts myself.

Karadjas

01-23-2007, 01:17 PM

You mean you use them on something other than a ZXR? I'm just starting research on it, so I don't really know of the differences between the different models...

tomstacey

01-23-2007, 02:17 PM

Sorry, Maybe I was unclear. Kyosho did a version of the ZXR called ZX-Sport with a Kelron (plastic) chassis. This car was similar in layout to the ZXR but used Stick packs. Perhaps with the chassis plate from the ZX-Sport you could use Stick packs?

welshy40

01-23-2007, 03:42 PM

Karadjas,
The original ZX was designed to use both stick and saddle packs, and there were two poles one either side of the saddle pack slots for a thick plastic section that bolted ontop of the stick pack at eiter end. You can use a schumacher battery strap on either side but really this car is designed for saddle packs.

The Lazer is a brilliant car even today, and if you are going to do what the rest of us have done and make it better then go for it, as you will find it the most pleasurable RC car that you will ever drive. Its still better than anything made today.

Also as Tom stated, a ten double in this car feels like it was designed for speed, I only used a 10 double since the ZX began, with the exception of a worlds prepared Mr M (I think thats what a 13D was called) which was worked on for 9 hours by a specialist for the Basildon worlds warm ups and could still today out perform 8 singles accelaration, yet still have more top end due to it being a 13. It loves speed, the more you give the more it wants

I only ever broke one rear belt and that was the third leg of the indoor championships in the third A final whilst in 2nd position, and im still gutted as it would have given me third overall if I had finished. Never the less I finished 5th and with a third and a fourth I got 5th.Mind you it was impressive to finish 5th with a front wheel drive car up against Yokomos and Cats. I have only ever replaced one front belt due to using my car for four events a week (thats 20 five minute races a week, not including practices) for ten years (I think, whenever the ZX was built I had one of the Uks first and raced until 99, 4 race events a week for 50 weeks a year - so thats a lot of races). The reason I changed it was it had got to stretched, and that was in 97. Its built to last.

Otherwise if its something for a mess around and your going to destroy then I would recommend an RC truck as it will be more user friendly, as the huge wheels/tyres will protect it from almost any damage.

Im not trying to put you off, but this is a work of art, and since they ceased to make this the market has not made anything to really make any of us here drop it and go elsewhere.

Karadjas

01-23-2007, 09:48 PM

Thanks for your replies, very informative!

Actually, I had an HPI RS4 MT and sold it because I did not like it. I'm very much a 1/8 buggy man, and I'm guessing a 1/10 brushless will be just as much if not more fun. I don't bash in the sense of throwing it around a field. When I'm not racing my H7 Pro or TB02, I'm setting up my own tracks for my Lightning and TA03 TRF. The ZXR would be a plaything, but the heavier bashing will be undertaken by my retired ex-race T-Maxx.

Welshy, I see you're in London. I'm in London as well, studying at the LSE. Where are some good hobby shops round here (I live 20 seconds away from Trafalgar Sq)? I've only so far found a tamiya one in Holborn but the guy there doesn't know anything.

Thanks!

tomstacey

01-24-2007, 04:34 AM

We should have a meet up in London! I keep meaning to pop round and see Welshy40 :D :D :D

p.s. I am now the proud owner of another Lazer, its finally arrived! Its a rather odd mix of Lazer ZXR, ZX and ZX-Sport but looks like it has 85% new parts so it'll be great for spares.

welshy40

01-24-2007, 04:38 PM

Karadjas,

funny that your at LSE, so am I. Im doing a management evening course. There are quite a few shops. Hobby stores in park lane in camden town. They know a lot and the chap running the shop there knows me. I resigned and he took my job,and looks like he is now in charge of the shop - anything about nitros and your laughing.

He also knows a bit about electric, but nowhere near me in the buggy dept. There is also one just about twenty mins from ilford. Near a station but forgotten which one,but could be gants hill. Have a look in the yelow pages on the web and see what they come up with otherwise on google or even the BRCA website as they have a lot of shops listed. then there is apex models but is online and they know their stuff. I raced team apex models many years ago, so get the impression that they are all racers.

I have just bought a HPI Nitro for a laugh (and it was cheap) and to practice with my mate in Wales,after all I may be driving a new 4wd in the near future if all goes well. I am going to race up against a predator with a truck on his home built track.

Tom, well done. I dont have my car any more due to having to sell it as I was unemployed at the time (ages ago)and needed to pay my rent - now im gutted.

Karadjas

01-24-2007, 07:28 PM

I think I've been to the one in camden town... Has one of the guys got a hopped up Savage and do they stock a lot of Carson and Tamiya? They didn't really have quite what I was looking for at the time, so I just talked to them for a bit, bought a couple of mags and left.

I've been through the thread, but I may have missed some stuff as I was also trying to study at the time... I found out fibrelyte makes awesome bulkheads to replace the seemingly weak ones. Anything else that might need upgrading? Also, it is 12mm hex, right? Kyosho and Tamiya have a reputation for making things hard for us and especially since the ZXR is that old...

adam lancia

01-24-2007, 07:35 PM

tomstecey: i found an ebay auction for a bumper

http://cgi.ebay.com/OT-93-Front-Bumper-Kyosho-Optima-Mid-Lazer-ZX_W0QQitemZ250075622318QQihZ015QQcategoryZ34063QQ rdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

welshy40

01-25-2007, 01:07 PM

Karadjas,
Well that sounds like the camden shop. they know their stuff.

Well Fibre-lyte have my designs as well, in fact my name is posted under the ZX section. I have given them almost every flat bit on the car and they have copied it all, including all my newer better designs.

The shock towers are a must and for you the half circular front mount will be a valuable asset as I never managed to break one, and doing over 50mph and crashing you would think it would snap, but nope it just kept going.

The pivot blocks (they are the braces that hold your wishbones to the car) have been copied by them as well so no more crappy plastic.

They also have a vast collection of chassis including my original (and first one ever made for the ZX) tub chassis. This is super strong and you will never need worry about an undertray any more. It helped me achieve all my best racing results, and almost any setting works (I dont know why but if it works go with it).

The steering plate, the servo mount plate,even the motor mount. If you cant see it give them a ring and the two chaps will find it for you. You couldnt get a better company than fibre lyte.

welshy40

01-25-2007, 01:09 PM

Adam,
why waste your money, I wasnt a fan of these bumpers due to not being able to protect the front end very well, especially if not using the metal braces and stong shock mount. I tended to get a slightly lower bumper that protected a fraction more, until I got round to strengthening even more.

tomstacey

01-25-2007, 02:20 PM

Well, I could have a bid at it anyway.. I have ordered a bunch of the Parma bumpers from the US which look like they offer a lot more protection yet are still small enough to be practical. They are on ebay as Optima Mid bumpers from a store called Hobby Sports.

p.s. James' round shock mount is by far and away the best design for the lazer.. it's not the prettiest thing (sorry James) but it is VERY strong in 3mm carbon.

welshy40

01-25-2007, 04:51 PM

Tom,
Well this item was originally designed by someone else but I altered it fractionally as the original had a fault that needed fixing (I saw it break), and also Fibre-lyte saved the design for me and everyone else that can still use one. Yes its ugly but saves the day big time, and you always end up on your wheels whilst in a roll, plus it protects the front gearbox casing which is a must. The rest are my designs though, obviously with exception of the standard originals which didnt need dabling with. Im most proudest of the Tub chassis with six cut outs for the saddle packs, as well as the latest chassis/top deck and front/rear shock towers. I enjoyed testing them thoroughly.

welshy40

01-25-2007, 05:09 PM

Tom,

There are three bumpers on the web at the moment from the US. Go to ebay and you will see, under optima mid and also one is under lazer

welshy40

01-26-2007, 05:36 PM

Guys,
There is a zx on line in ebay in the UK. 22 hours left.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kyosho-Lazer-4wd-rolling-chassis-Nissan-Skyline-GTR_W0QQitemZ180077197149QQihZ008QQcategoryZ2565QQ rdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Also a rear gear box and belt

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kyosho-Lazer-ZX-Diff-Rear-Gearbox-and-Drive-Belt_W0QQitemZ320074438807QQihZ011QQcategoryZ34063 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Karadjas

01-26-2007, 05:53 PM

Ignore this...

Karadjas

01-26-2007, 05:57 PM

My wish list has:

The #1 parts from this
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/jilazer.html

The #1,#2 and #3 braces from this
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/zx.html

And the steering link, motor plate and motor stabiliser from this
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/kyosho/kylaz1.html

I'm not going to get the bottom chassis plate for now...

Question. How many copies of each type of brace do I need(second page?)

It's only £44.85 plus the cost of the braces which is tiny to make an almost full carbon lazer! :eek:

tomstacey

01-26-2007, 05:59 PM

Tom,

There are three bumpers on the web at the moment from the US. Go to ebay and you will see, under optima mid and also one is under lazer

Yay! i now have a Kyosho OT-93 on its way to me from the US! Cheers James :D

welshy40

01-27-2007, 05:43 AM

Karadjas,

The steering link from the ZXR (with the bends on either side) isnt worth the efffort, unless you want the car to not steer perfectly. The straight version from the ZX page is better, I know as I have used that version as it betters the steering and helps remove bump steer, which means better performance.

If you do get the chassis from the first page you will nedd the top deck as well, mabe the newdesign that is next to the chassis picture.

The motor brace is a joke, use the standard L brace without the hole as the hole section gets in the way whilst working on the car if you decide to work on it regularly.

Other than that one copy as they are strong

Karadjas

01-27-2007, 01:51 PM

From what I see, the motor brace takes only 4 screws to come out if it gets in the way, and it's carbon fibre (On hypercentral.net everyone knows me as the carbon freak :D ) and only £3, so even if I choose not to run it, it's not a waste of money... Now, on to keep twisting my mate's arm!

tomstacey

02-01-2007, 08:34 AM

In case anyone hasn't seen them: here are my Lazers. Both are odd hybrids between ZX/ZXR Mk1 and 2 with whatever parts work best and are available.

Thanks in part to James' setup tips my 'race' Lazer knocks the spots off everything else I race with. The Lazer ZX drivetrain is streets ahead of the Losi XX4 in terms of efficiency and the car itself is far stronger than a Predator. The new Tamiya 501X looks very promising though, and also the new Yokomo although we haven't got one in our club yet to see. I will admit though I recently bought a ZX5 although the set-up is unknown indoors on wood floor yet.. I see no point in moving to the ZX5 indoors right now, but I may use it for the outdoor season.

Anyway you can see how my cars are setup etc. (I'll have to excuse the Plastic shocks on the red and white one..Losi's are on order!!)

http://194.83.41.249/lazers/1.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/2.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/3.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/4.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/5.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/6.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/7.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/8.jpg
http://194.83.41.249/lazers/9.jpg

Karadjas

02-01-2007, 06:23 PM

Pretty!
Not sure about what looks like a TR15 wing on the stock(ish) one though...

Do you guys know of any modern buggy bodies that will fit the ZXR, even with some 'creative' cutting?

tomstacey

02-02-2007, 04:21 AM

Yes the TR15 wing isn't quite right I agree.. i have a Bi-Level ZX wing on order from Time Tunnel models.. they are only about £3 ($6) new so beware expensive ones on eBay!! As for bodies.. Dahms do a body and undertray for the ZXR, but to be honest its pretty ugly. :(

I have test fitted a ZX5 shell and it looks like it will fit with some cutting around the spur. You will need the fibre-lyte Welshy40 chassis though, else its too narrow.

tomstacey

02-02-2007, 04:27 AM

p.s. The Parma bumper I have fitted on the Race lazer is awesome by the way. Highly recommended if you can find one (i have 3! although they do pop up on eBay often). The reason being because if you hit something, it tends to lift the front up over the obstacle rather than just spanking into something. The only disadvantage is that it limits wishbone down travel a bit (it was designed for the optima series) but thats not a problem for me.

Karadjas

02-02-2007, 12:26 PM

I guess some creative dremelling will take care of any downtravel issues it may cause judging from your photos.

Still no word from my mate on a sale price for his ZXR... It's been in his closet for eons!
I might end up just strengthening my TB02, but I have absolutely linked brushless with light 4wd buggies in my mind...

welshy40

02-02-2007, 01:49 PM

Nice pictures Tom, however I will point out that the rear wishbone pivot block is upside down, and should be turned the other way as its better that way. But why Losi shocks, as associated are much better. The best wing for the ZX or ZXR is the Associated rear wing. It looks superb and does the job properly. Also you need the longer front driveshafts, which means that you can use the caster block hole on the top and bottom corner closest to the chassis on the castor block. The car is even more stable and quicker in and out of the corners. Dont forget the standard ZX steering plate as this stops bump steer.

Yes the chassis was designed to fit the ZX-S body and the ZX5 shell is very similar. I got a marker pen and made sure it could be washed off the outside of the shell and put the ZXR shell over it and drew the hole. Then you measure up the shell over the car and make sure you are cutting in the correct place. Then be careful whilst using the scalpel and cut carefully and it looks well like my shell attached

tomstacey

02-02-2007, 03:30 PM

Good advice James, I'll cancel the order for the Losi's and go for the Associateds. The only reason I thought losi's would be best is because Kyosho used them on the ZXS. I do get on well with the AE shocks though and have plenty of spare springs as i run them on my RC10.

welshy40

02-03-2007, 01:09 PM

Tom, those shocks on the ZXS were actually kyosho, and I sold them as they were a dissapointment.

welshy40

02-04-2007, 01:10 PM

Tom, Did you know schumacher battery straps are better than the kyosho ones

tomstacey

02-04-2007, 04:22 PM

Hi James,

Yes I'm using them on my "Race" Lazer.. The standard ones are still in my "spare/shelf" car.. Should upgrade really!!

http://194.83.41.249/lazers/10.jpg

welshy40

02-05-2007, 02:34 PM

Maybe you should invest in associated ball joints and cups all round as well, as this makes life easier when cleaning and rebuilding, plus it reduces slop that the kyosho ones give. I also used allen key screws throughout, including associated ones on the chassis as well, and this made life a lot easier. The screw heads supplied by Kyosho were poor quality hence why I changed. Another ponter associated also do servo posts, and these are slimmer and lighter than the kyosho ones and look nicer. It will give you a fraction more room for your wires especially if you get the new narrow chassis. I used to have the wasp slipper like yours as well. It was used by Bob Gammon and I think even Jamie Booth used it, until they got the hydra drive which meant you could get a 98 kimbrough spur and made it easier to use. I couldnt quite see but you should have the front and rear shocks angled the same.

welshy40

02-05-2007, 02:36 PM

Oh yeah one more thing, why not put the receiver where your esc is and re mount the wire as well, like mine was as this stops the aerial getting tangled with the wheels. The esc can go where the receiver is now.

tomstacey

02-26-2007, 12:46 PM

I wonder if James or anyone else can help...

I'm going to put the gold shocks on the red/white lazer instead of the plastic jobbies.

So I'll need some associated shocks for the ZXR.. The only problem is, I'm confused about the shock lengths needed.. I figure 1.32 with 1.02 bodies are OK for the rear(see these on tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3218&P=7) ), but what length do I need on the front? The A shaped ZXR tower is pretty big and associated seem to do a .71 a .83 and 1.02 length. What would fit on the Lazer? :)

welshy40

02-27-2007, 02:18 PM

Tom

Just get the standard B4 shocks. I used Traxxas most of the time, but did use the B2 shocks and they worked fine. I didnt change the length of the shocks, but did use schumacher springs instead of the associated. Look up what are used on the Yokomo cars or the BJ4, but the 2wd shocks are commonly used.

Use the oval front tower or the newest towers I designed are perfect for these shocks. If you need more length then just get the extra long shafts for the front (I doubt it tho)

tomstacey

02-27-2007, 03:21 PM

Hi James, I reckon that's the 0.83 up front then.. cheers mate, I'll let you know how I get on :)

Tom

tomstacey

02-28-2007, 08:35 AM

Also, another quick question.. One of the ZXR's (Mk. 1 or 2) had a shorter chassis (or at least top deck). Which one was which and what length is your design chassis James?

Cheers,

Tom

terry.sc

03-03-2007, 11:39 AM

Tom, the ZX and ZX-R had the same length top deck, the ZX-RR/ZX-R mk2 had the longer top deck as the batteries were moved back in the chassis. It also means to run the longer top deck you also need the ZX-RR motor mount and brace above the motor as well as the ZX-RR chassis.

tomstacey

03-03-2007, 01:36 PM

Hello Terry. Thanks for your reply. In that case one of my ZXRs is a Mk2 as the Top Deck is longer. I was just wondering which length the James Instone design fibre-lyte chassis and top deck is? Long or Short (Mk.2 or Mk.1 in that case).

:)

welshy40

03-03-2007, 04:41 PM

Tom,

As Terry says the chassis are the same length, the only difference is the battery position and the rear top deck mount has moved back a bit.

The ZX chassis made the car much more stable (even tho Jamie Booth won the UK nationals and Ellis Stafford won the Euros with the ZXRR) than the ZXRR. If you prefer the car to be more user friendly and predictable then the ZX chassis is the way to go. Better still the tub ZX chassis (the first ever made for this car) that I designed with the cell slots just like the standard chassis was superb. I never had a dirty car inside, yes the cells got dirty but undamaged never the less. The benifits were the car was indestructable and the shell was also safe from damage due to the carbon fibre taking all the bashes. I also moved the cells to make the car more stable and it got me some great results.

The chassis I recently designed is a different design. The top deck is reshaped (you cant miss it) with tie wrap slots so you can tie wrap your esc wires to the underneath of the top deck, as well as the reciever wires on the other side. The chassis has the battery holes closer together, plus is narrower and is slightly different as well ZXSJI has the batteries moved further inwards and the sides of the chassis have also been narrowed so it can fit the ZXS shell. just makes it that little bit more stable and easier to power into and out of corners, no matter what setup you use.

The batteries are closer together in the middle of the chassis, plus they are fractionally further forward than the ZX, plus the servo is also almost touching the belt (with a kimbrough servo saver (the big one) as that had been moved further inwards. It felt like it was on rails and felt good when driving I suppose due to the weight being closer to the centre of the car.

Oh yes I forgot one thing, I didnt like the ZXR or ZXRR chassis or top deck so chucked it. I based everything on the zx chassis as it was more user friendly and the chassis was a beter layout. Yes the ZX top deck was crap but used the MK1 until I got round to designing a new one.

The ZXRR motor mount was silly and you couldnt use much to redirect the heat, plus the car only worked on clay with the cells way back there and on jumps, so you couldnt get any grip into a corner at top speed.

With the ZX you had more control over the steering and balance of the car, on jumps you lacked a bit due to the front sometimes wanting to dig in (I love major oversteer so thats why) but that could be overcome by throttle response.

What do you want to do?

tomstacey

03-03-2007, 04:50 PM

A hugely informative reply as ever James!! Basically I wanted to add your design chassis to my Red and White ZXR which already has a fibre lyte top deck.. the thing is the top deck is different to my "Race" Lazer (with the maroon shell). Its either longer or shorter than the racer (I think longer) so would figure it was a ZXR mk. 2 ( I bought it 2nd hand so am not sure exactly which model it is). I basically wanted to know if your design chassis would bolt on or if I'd need a Mk.1 Top deck and motor plate too?

welshy40

03-03-2007, 05:06 PM

Tom,

Im unsure just by looking at the chassis, however if the two top decks are different then obviously one is a MK1 and the other a Mk2(that being longer). My top deck design is shorter so is a MK1.

What you could do is ask fibre lite to copy the shape but put it onto a MK2 top deck and that should do it. I cant fault these guys, they are very professional at what they do so you shouldnt have any problems with them.

I designed them that way just for fun, but the advantage of having clear wiring tie wrapped out of site just makes it that little bit user friendly and better. Oh I forgot I also put slots on the top deck so the battery wire (the black negative wire from the ESC) could be tie wrapped as well through the belt on both sides. I have a picture showing this

welshy40

03-03-2007, 05:07 PM

Here it is

welshy40

03-03-2007, 05:22 PM

Hey do you have any movement on your wishbones?

Well if you look closely you will see what i did to stop all slop on the suspension as well.

MIP blue shock seals were the best and one on the front between the pivot post holder and wishbone worked a treat.

On the back you need the do this as well (at the back section not the one by the motor) but to stop all slop you are going to have to do the hubs use the tiniest motor washers (silver metal) and basically center the hubs on the rear and front on the wishbone. It works so try it if you havent already I used one either side on the rear, and I am unsure on the front due to the caster block I had fitted perfectly anyway.

It may be tight to start off but after a couple of runs it will be fine. this does improve the performance, and is noticeable by the driver. Once this has been achieved the next step will be slop in the steeing linkages and bump steer. Easy, change to associated ball joints and slop is gone (this is the best piece of equipment you will ever need for your car) then some more motor washers (these are silver metal ones that are so tiny) and space your steering plate higher until the wheels stop moving in or out when you lift and drop the car. When you get to that point where they stay parellel (thats straight no matter how far up or down you go when lifting and pressing the car to the ground by the shock mount) then you have zero bumps steer and that means you can set your car up more easily and with much more grip if you want.

I cannot remember if I cut away the lobe on the knuckle arm so the associated ball joint sat flat to the arm, but if you use an excesive amount of washers then the next step would be to do that, as that would lower the amount needed.

Does this all make sense? I do go on so apologise if I have bored you all to death.

tomstacey

03-04-2007, 04:56 AM

Not at all mate!! This thread is such a wealth of information on the Kyosho Lazer due to you and others. :) Its good to see Terry on here too as he is a Kyosho nut too.

I'm not sure how many people still actively campaign Lazers, but all who do would be well advised to read this whole thread. (We should turn it into a Word document really). I'm using some shims on the wishbones, but not MIP seals (they are too expensive for that!!). I've still got some serious play in my rear hubs, but this is mainly due to wear where the bearings run.. I may try some ZX5 hubs, although Time Tunnel still do the ZXR ones I think.

terry.sc

03-04-2007, 01:04 PM

Easy way to tell at a glance which car you have is by looking at the brace above the motor. if it is the ZX or ZX-R the brace attaches to the two upper gearbox mounts and is a narrow bent strip. The ZX-RR/ZX-R Mk2 brace is U shaped and goes down to the extra mounting point further down the gearbox, like your red and white one.

If you just want to fit James' chassis to the red and white one the front and rear ends will line up, but new holes will need to be drilled to mount the brace just in front of the motor as it is further back on the chassis. Every thing else should be fine, you would even have extra clearance around the batteries.

I'm still racing mine indoors, my much modified on road ZX is now retired but still race my ZX-R. Fairly standard, but with gear diffs and Teamline 7.5 degree front uprights with wide front end.

welshy40

03-04-2007, 05:31 PM

Tom,

I used the hubs before they put them on the ZX5 and they are better. However bear this in mind, you may find the rear slightly narrower, but that makes the car even more easier to drive due to the rear not wanting to step out of line as the front will be wider.

Terry.
Indoors I didnt space my shocks inside, and used the body roll to help fast cornering, but you need to have the car about 2mm off the deck when stationary and the front fractonally higher. It sounds silly but works. Wide 7.5 is all I used. What style of driving do you prefer? twitchy or mellow understeer? Also what ratio do you use. Me I used a 100 tooth 48 dp spur and a 22 or 23 on a 10d using 1400 scrs and 1700 scrcs. Ok I had to drive smoothly and had gear diffs (they are better on carpet) to make it and was only allowed one mistake or I would crawl over the line on the last lap, but indoors the car was better with a loose belt on the front and could make it with 1400's flat out.

Its still the best car todate to race indoors. Oh yeah one more thing, how do you start and how do you set your slipper

terry.sc

03-05-2007, 05:56 AM

I first started racing a Lazer ZX in 1989, ran it for about 6-7 years until in was the only driver with a buggy. It went through a lot of development for running indoors on carpet, basically it ended up with a full touring car conversion with short shocks and many mods, in fact not much was actually left untouched.
I brought it out again a couple of years ago and found it so twitchy I don't know how I managed to drive it. Currently running a ZX-R I picked up locally for next to nothing and haven't done much to it. Running kit standard it was too docile for me (I like loads of front end grip) so fitted the Teamline blocks, longer driveshafts and a set of foams. The Lazer is also used for outdoor bashing so the car is just lowered for indoors, the smaller diameter foams helping to drop the car without altering the geometry too much.

I run on a very small carpet track, gear ratio I'm using is 100:17 with a 13 double motor and 2" wheels. Slipper is fully tightened down. It leaves the start line like a scalded cat and it's top speed has been measured with a radar gun to be only 2 mph less than the 1/12th scales.

Picture is my original converted ZX, basically a full on wide tourer.

tomstacey

03-05-2007, 08:00 AM

Hehe I run loads of slipper on mine (I have a wasp or MMS slipper I think). The main reason for this is because we run on a polished wood floor and grip is a luxury at the best of times! The lazer is brilliant on this surface though, due mainly i think to flex in the FRP chassis. Does anyone have any Lazer setup tips for increasing grip?

Funkymojo

03-05-2007, 08:07 AM

Hi guys...i'm looking for a good condition Kyosho Lazer ZXS Evo or fully hopped up mint Lazer ZX..i'm willing to trade my brand newly built Turbo Optima Custom Special with option house carbon graphite chassis added on. buggy comes with front UJ, full ball bearings, gear diffs and roll bars...comes with nib spares too...Car is in mint cond...great for collectors

2 x option house gold UJ
1 x spur gear + this other gear.
1 x counter gear
1 x belt
1 x complete front and rear gear diff
1 x front gear diff case
1 bag of plastic stuff (upper deck support, battery support etc)
1 x mid custom special body shell
1 x new wheels. Original style but in yellow.

Pm me for pics...

Anyway guys, whats the best diffs to use on a Lazer zx or zxr? Ball diffs or gear diffs? Cheers

welshy40

03-05-2007, 06:06 PM

Terry,

Nice, however I tried your setup with foams and hate to say it but it lacked grip and speed. I found that a slipper needs to be set properly indoors. It doesnt matter what diffs you have as long as they are diffs. I used gears making sure no slippage was there, but I set my slipper so that with me holding the car flat to the floor the slipper would sound like it was barely struggling to slip and the car was trying to pull as well.

That is the perfect setting on all surfaces indoors. I made 5th on a canvas surface at the uk indoor champs, also made 2nd in the welsh champs (carpet) with some tough competitors like Jon Tucker,Jon Leonard (both team Associated/yokomo/schumacher driver) Craig Harris Team Traxxas/schumacher etc etc and the setting was identical.

Harris and Leonard both tried as well and both decided on rubber tires (dont forget leonard also raced national level at 1/12th as well).

I love super twitchy front ended cars as well, and the lazer was my test bed and boy would it turn on a dime. I drove tight every where and yes it did defy logic as it would go around the corners and defy gravity whilst doing it. I also had the same top deck as what you have in your piccy, now thats a blast from the past. In fact if im not mistaken thats an optima mid not a lazer. The wishbones and wheels are anyway and the chassis looks different as well. I cant put my finger on it yet but when i do.....

Tom,

Ok I suppose that would work with your surface. Me I just found a worn set of yellow tires (almost slicks), lowered the car to the deck, used body roll with no spacing in the shocks and ran with that and a smooth curve on the throttle and steering and that worked well for me.

My advice really is to try all the obvious then the stuff that you wouldnt normally try. Thats when the magic happens and that when you see the difference between just an average racer and a competitive racer. But only try one thing at a time and sooner or later you will feel and see the difference, and youll know whats a no and what is going to work.

I have gambled and done the stupid ideas like that for instance at the uk champs. How many people would run yellow mini pins on the rear and green mini pin rears on the front on a canvas track? I doubt any one here but I though what would happen if I did and had nothing to loose in the controlled practice heat so I tried it and I was stunned, I was five or six seconds quicker than any one else in my controlled heat. It does pay off to try the daft ideas every now and then.

Im glad that im not the on lazer freek around and am glad I can throw my knowlede around

terry.sc

03-05-2007, 08:32 PM

James it was a bit difficult to set a slipper on my old car as being a ZX it didn't have one. I did remove the balls in the centre diff early on, in fact I drilled through and bolted it solid but then discovered with no give in the drive train the rear belts lasted 3-4 weeks so went back to the standard mod of assembling it without the balls as a rudimentary slipper. Coming from a background of racing 1/12th and buggies on polished wood in the early 80s running without a slipper has never been a problem, especially on as grippy a surface as carpet.

For carpet use the perfect tyres we found back then were Mardave Meteor fronts all round, soft and narrow (so low drag) and only £7 for a set of 4 they were brilliant until Mardave changed the rubber compound, then we all moved to foams. On most surfaces apart from carpet rubber tyres will grip more, but foams are the best for carpet - if you don't have enough grip you just use a softer compound. I never used additive on the foams as the car just grip rolls, even so the tyres are actually tacky when it comes off the track after the race. I use Optima wheels as the smaller wheels means the suspension geometry gives a higher roll centre which makes the car more agile. They also last for months with no drop off in grip, my driving style means I tend to throw the car into the corners hard and foams break away progressively when they reach their limit so it is still easy to control while drifting through the corner, spikes might be able to generate more grip if they are soft enough, but they don't last too long when you race every week and when the tyres reach their limit the car will just spin out.

The car in the picture was my on road Lazer in the early 90s when wide touring cars were the rage. Short shocks all round, home made shock mounts, top deck and motor brace in fibreglass. One piece top deck was necessary as once the belt cover was removed the chassis was too soft. The chassis was the standard ZX one, there's just less of it as it was hacked about to reduce weight. The car is a Lazer but with Optima suspension, on road the shorter arms mean the soft suspension generates lots of grip with less chassis roll, it also meant I could use different front uprights to adjust the caster, these weren't available for the Lazer until after the ZX-R was released. By the time the car was retired several years later it eventually ended up with ZX-RR front and rear suspension, with the front upper link mounted on the kingpin. Steering centre link was my own design, bent even more than the ZX-R one to give a much better ackerman geometry than the standard setup, which is terrible for an on road car.

Funkymojo

03-06-2007, 02:43 AM

Hi guys...for the lazers...is it better using gear diffs or ball diffs? I remember that Kyosho ball diffs during the later 1980s and early 1990s were not very well made and tends to slip...

tomstacey

03-06-2007, 04:29 AM

Hey FM.. I think the guys above were recommending Gear diffs on high grip tracks, but myself I've never had a problem with the Ball diffs. If you build them right and don't overdo the silicone grease they are super smooth with no slip. You can still buy the rings and balls for the diffs, and as long as you make sure these are in good condition, they are fine :) I would tend to avoid gear diffs and no slipper (ZX style) unless you want your drive train to take all the stresses!!

Funkymojo

03-06-2007, 05:03 AM

tomstacey

03-06-2007, 06:18 AM

I fitted the ZX5 rear hubs today (SP107H). Good news is that they are a direct fit as we thought. They are much smaller reducing unsprung weight and also have less play by far. The Geometry is identical if you put one large washer (included on the sprue) under the ball stud. If you use two shims behind the UJ then the width seems near as dammit the same.

I used the Carbon Composite version which should be stronger too. :)

James, I don't suppose you know the part number of the blue steering bellcranks you used above do you? I checked a Lazer ZXS manual and it seems the ZXS bellcranks use a top screw through the top deck too, so it can't be those parts can it?

EDIT: I think these are the bits James spoke about: K.39655 UNICRANK EP & GP FOR SERIES SUPER 10, MODELS SPIDER £8.24

or it could be: K.OTW10 SERVO SAVER ZXR/EP SPID/SUP10 £7.14

Is this all I need, or do I need posts too? Just to clarify, this is so I can fit The Fibre-lyte JI chassis kit to one of my ZXRs

tomstacey

03-06-2007, 06:23 AM

i'm trying to get my hands on a nice zxs evo..

Hey aren't we all dude!! :D :D

I've wanted one ever since they came out :( The good news is, with the advice in this thread you can still buy all the bits to basically build a ZXS from a ZXR. With the James Instone Fibre-Lyte Chassis kit, a ZXS body (or ZX5 apparently), ZX5 suspension parts, Losi or Associated shocks and a number of other parts, you are virtually there. Welshy40's car above was basically a ZXS built up this way.

Mine is not far behind :cool: :cool:

If you do find a real one.. show us some pics, they are like the Holy Grail!!!

Funkymojo

03-06-2007, 10:30 AM

Funkymojo

03-06-2007, 10:52 AM

Hey aren't we all dude!! :D :D

I've wanted one ever since they came out :( The good news is, with the advice in this thread you can still buy all the bits to basically build a ZXS from a ZXR. With the James Instone Fibre-Lyte Chassis kit, a ZXS body (or ZX5 apparently), ZX5 suspension parts, Losi or Associated shocks and a number of other parts, you are virtually there. Welshy40's car above was basically a ZXS built up this way.

Mine is not far behind :cool: :cool:

If you do find a real one.. show us some pics, they are like the Holy Grail!!!

Do be prepared to pay a very high price for a pristine condition zxs/zxs evo..anyway here are pics of my buddy's zxs...he's not gonna sell no matter how much the offer is... :(

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/6791/zxseb3.th.jpg (http://img72.imageshack.us/my.php?image=zxseb3.jpg)
http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/7044/zxs2ic0.th.jpg (http://img160.imageshack.us/my.php?image=zxs2ic0.jpg)
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/1619/zxsfrontpw5.th.jpg (http://img112.imageshack.us/my.php?image=zxsfrontpw5.jpg)
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1548/zxsrearfb9.th.jpg (http://img19.imageshack.us/my.php?image=zxsrearfb9.jpg)
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/7007/zxstop2hk2.th.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=zxstop2hk2.jpg)

terry.sc

03-06-2007, 02:09 PM

Hey aren't we all dude!! :D :D

I've wanted one ever since they came out :( The good news is, with the advice in this thread you can still buy all the bits to basically build a ZXS from a ZXR. With the James Instone Fibre-Lyte Chassis kit, a ZXS body (or ZX5 apparently), ZX5 suspension parts, Losi or Associated shocks and a number of other parts, you are virtually there. Welshy40's car above was basically a ZXS built up this way.

Mine is not far behind :cool: :cool:
Not quite Tom, the ZX-S is very different to the other Lazers. If you have a look at the manualhttp://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/30075_lazerzx_evo_m.pdf
you will see there is only the transmission and some suspension parts that are the same. You can make a better Lazer but it isn't a ZX-S. I would love a ZX-S, definitely number one on my wants list.

I do have a genuine ZX-S body shell, basically it is an Optima Mid Custom shell with extra lumps added to clear the layshaft and steering and is a lot different to the ZX-5 shell.

It's good to know the ZX-5 rear uprights fit, those are the one part that keeps on needing replacement when the bearing mounts wear.

terry.sc

03-06-2007, 02:10 PM

A picture of a ZX-S Evo with the body on.

tomstacey

03-06-2007, 02:18 PM

...and yokomo wheels oddly! :D

welshy40

03-06-2007, 04:05 PM

Tom,

My car was a ZX and was one of the first in the UK. I just redeveloped the car to my style of driving and also making the car easier to work on leaving me with more time to snooze between races. I did put on one of the pages all the part number and the blue steering bel crank (i think that was what it was called) is on there as well. The standard steering poles will work but be aware that you may have to dremel off the tops of the steering poles (buy some new ones if you can) and use a countersunk screw to make a snug fit. Also you will need the straight ZX steering plate as this is the other part required to stop bump steer totally. Also my car was built to fit into the ZXS shell (as seen in my pics) and also to redifine its handling characteristics to a better level and yes it does work rather well. Basically i had the speed but not the skill, so developed the car around the speed and whilst doing that learnt to drive and lukily for me I had half the top twenty racers in the uk in my back yard so couldnt have been in a better place to get better. You have to start somewhere and plenty of time and practice any one can make it, like you.

Terry
I now see where you are coming from. I tried what you did with the slipper and found the ball actually worked well. You had a chance to redifine the drive train with either a 50/50, 40/60 or 60/40 which is what I prefered. I had gear diffs, a set slipper (which was changed to a prototype hyper clutch later on) and yellow mini spikes which made it grip big time but yes after five races i couldnt use a race level, but got at least three or four club events before replacements. I love grip and major steering just like you and it sounds like you drive it the way I do but with foams. Yes the top deck was at the time I had one a great design as the two piece unit was designed by a dummy. The belt covers reduced speed, and when the belt stretched it was perfect (if any one read that do not stretch these belts as it screws them up - I tried) without the covers. It made the car more free and you could save the power even though you looked like maximum pace.

Funkymojo
Your mate has taste, however the thing that let the car down for me what the front end design (Yokomo copy or what!!!) but the drivetrain design on the rear was something Bob Gammon and the Kyosho guys were toying with back in the early 90's. I just couldnt design the correct layout to fit the chassis and layout on the ZX, Bobs design was good but I just didnt like the design and my design I couldnt get the bits made the way I needed them to use on my car.

But what a design never the less, and the handling would probably come very close to my design, oops I meant the other way around.

Heck this car won the Japanese nationals against Masami so it was a goer. However I am waiting for the next new Lazer, preferably a belt one as the shaft car is pants (sorry to all you who like it but its not a balanced car). If your mate ever decides to sell it then maybe he could look me up.