Kyosho Lazer ZX, ZXS, ZXR, Alpha

[tomstacey]

On the subject of shocks. I run losi on mine and cannot fault them in anyway. James runs Traxxas shocks which are good if you can get them. Associated would be fine too, but i prefer the Losis.

[pUs]

Guys, the price for Lazer suspension blocks (new) is £25 inc delivery (UK) for a complete set. This is a very good price as the plastic ones are unavailable and if you are planning to run the car you need the alu ones.

Also, they look super on shelf queens. :D

They will be available on eBay shortly through my contact. Details to follow.

Great news. Let us know as soon as they're up on ebay, I'll definetly get one or two sets.

[Karadjas]

I'll be in the uk in less than a month, any chance you can hold on to a set for me? :o

[Karadjas]

Well I went to the guy today and..































SCORE!!!!
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1250.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1254.jpg

I thought the long universals and bumpers were rare :D
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1253.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1252.jpg

I spotted the box and offered him CY£40 for whatever's inside and whatever I can find that specifically fits the zxr chassis. He foolishly accepted my offer and I spent about an hour throwing stuff in the box! :teacher:

[welshy40]

try reading the last ten pages as all the information has been posted by Terry, me or Tom, and I know I mentioned and Terry mentioned the LWB shell and who is still making it.

Also on the gold shocks. worth getting the traxxas blue seals and then the shocks will be even smoother. I did cheat and take out the spacer between the seals and added a third. It may sound daft but it didnt leak and actually saved my bacon by not bending on a couple of horendous crashes that should have damaged my shocks, but nothing damaged, just scratched. Still I found schumacher or associated springs worked better than everything else, and also the shock cap associated rubber seal works well to as it keeps the screw thread clean from dust and grit and giving you a longer shock life.

[welshy40]

What a bargin, worth several hundred on ebay. Good hunting. You lucky sod!!!

[Karadjas]

I don't think these will be for sale any time soon. I still regret selling my Robbe Land Rover Discovery even at 15-fold what I paid for it.

[tomstacey]

Great score!! I reckon on a good day, you have £150 worth of bumpers there.. maybe more. OT-93's go for a fortune. :)

p.s. should be able to hold bumpers.. hope they'll be done in time for your return!

[Karadjas]

The chassis decks I got yesterday seem to be from a different version of the Lazer. The used ones are ZX-R items (checked with the manual) but I don't know what the new ones are. There are only 6 battery slots further back and the top deck is extended towards the rear, implying a LWB version?

[tomstacey]

Yes that's the Mk.2 Chassis. You will need a different motor plate to use that chassis. I think I have a better condition than your pictures Mk.1 Chassis and Top plate if you are interested?

[Karadjas]

Good thing I have what seems to be the MK2 motor plate too then :D

The bottom chassis is actually in pretty good condition, it just has my paw prints all over it.

I'm contemplating using the MK2 parts on it or getting the MK1 Fibrelyte top deck since I'm getting the front tower anw. Speaking of front towers, is the mounted one a Mk1 or a Mk2 and what are the aluminium ones from? :confused:

[Karadjas]

I forgot to put up the photo of the mounted tower heh

[Karadjas]

Last question of the hour, I swear! Are the tabs on the arm tree used to raise the mounting point when using medium shocks?

[isobarik]

Aluminum towers are from the zx

[pUs]

I'm in need of a ZXR gearbox plate for my carbon MK1 chassis. I know fibrelyte makes on out of carbon which would be ok I guess, but then I'd still need the smaller alu plate for the motor.

Anybody who has one extra left and willing to part with it?

[Karadjas]

never mind

[terry.sc]

Mounted front shock tower is ZX-R Mk2/ZX-RR one. Rear shock mounts with 6 holes each side are also ZX-RMk2/ZX-RR, the ZX-R mk1 only has 4 holes each side.


The extra pieces on the wishbone mouldings are never used.

To fit the Mk2 chassis and top deck you will need to gearbox brace and also the rear top deck support must be one of the later ones with a curved section missing from the rear to clear the motor. here's the gearbox brace on Toms Mk2.

[Karadjas]

Well I only have a pair of short and a pair of * I think* medium gold shocks, so I used the extra pieces to gain some downtravel.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1265.jpg


BTW, I was browsing Fibre Lyte to set up an order and I saw that they have the same part number for the Mk1 and Mk2 top decks in the ZX-R pages. What part should I order to fit my Mk1?

[Karadjas]

I have quite a few of the rear top deck supports from the mk2... hmm, maybe after I'm done with building this as a lightly hopped up Mk1 I'll try building a Mk2 out of the parts I got and the guy's remaining stock, if he has anything left. Then I'll run the Mk1 and display the Mk2, result! :D

[welshy40]

Well I only have a pair of short and a pair of * I think* medium gold shocks, so I used the extra pieces to gain some downtravel.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1265.jpg


BTW, I was browsing Fibre Lyte to set up an order and I saw that they have the same part number for the Mk1 and Mk2 top decks in the ZX-R pages. What part should I order to fit my Mk1?

MK1 is a lazer ZX chassis. Simple, and the Mk2 is the longer and batts further back.

The wishbone mounts that you installed can be used the other way to actually move the shocks further out enabling the shock to mount lower more and with more angle (you need to swop them around to do this). I have used these a few times, and have seen the team on occasions use them. But not really needed.

[welshy40]

I'm in need of a ZXR gearbox plate for my carbon MK1 chassis. I know fibrelyte makes on out of carbon which would be ok I guess, but then I'd still need the smaller alu plate for the motor.

Anybody who has one extra left and willing to part with it?


You could always have fibrelyte make one with the slots in so you can adjust the motor and buy a circular alloy plate like I do on my ZXS and that will solve the problem

[pUs]

MK1 is a lazer ZX chassis. Simple, and the Mk2 is the longer and batts further back.

The wishbone mounts that you installed can be used the other way to actually move the shocks further out enabling the shock to mount lower more and with more angle (you need to swop them around to do this). I have used these a few times, and have seen the team on occasions use them. But not really needed.

Hm, that setup doesn't look convincing.. however, if you gotta use those medium shocks, mount the hub carrier in the upper hole. That way, you get more ground clearance.

Edit: Bah, error on my side. I tried to quote the image of the rear shock setup. Not your reply welshy. :) Oh well.

[welshy40]

Hm, that setup doesn't look convincing.. however, if you gotta use those medium shocks, mount the hub carrier in the upper hole. That way, you get more ground clearance.

Edit: Bah, error on my side. I tried to quote the image of the rear shock setup. Not your reply welshy. :) Oh well.

Not a problem. I didnt pay much attention to the medium shocks,

[Karadjas]

I understand how the Mk2 has the battery located further back, after all I have the chassises of both version right here. My question was that fibrelyte has the same part number in the Mk1 page and the Mk2 page for the top decks and I'm a bit worried that I might end up with the Mk2 longer one. welshy posted pictures and part numbers of a few parts a couple of pages back, is the top deck there a Mk1 or a Mk2?

[terry.sc]

The mk1 uses the same parts as the ZX, so you need the ZX top deck which is part number KYZX 02.

[Karadjas]

Thanks yet again, this thread and the people in it rule!

[isobarik]

Hi there does any one out there know the lenght on the medium and long gold shox ??

mvh isobarik:teacher:

[welshy40]

Hi there does any one out there know the lenght on the medium and long gold shox ??

mvh isobarik:teacher:

No I havent a clue. Sorry.

[Panic]

Well gents i m about to finish my zxr restoration according always to james(welshy40) guidance and all the precious infos i ve read through this topic . Will post pictures in a short period.

[tomstacey]

Cool! Can't wait!

[bluewire]

Hello!

I am selling it for 100$US.

It has blue w/ ball bearings things i don't know their name for the steering, i added ball bearings in the steering as well, everything is fibre-lyte except the chassis and i also have blue aluminun blocks.It also has racing addons.Plus it has a fast futaba servo and as gift i give receiver and transmitter kyosho.

Send me an email at bluewire@otenet.gr for bank account details so you can wire transfer me the money and i will proceed w/ the shipment.

Thanks.

[tomstacey]

Some pictures might help sell it Bluewire... Also, do you take PayPal? When people buy things off forums they don't know from Adam, it helps if they offer PP for that bit of protection (not doubting your honesty, of course)..

Anyway some pics may help entice the buyers. Good luck selling it!

[Karadjas]

bluewire, exeis pm, se parakalw apantise molis to deis

[isobarik]

Any one that has the gold shox andcould take it of and measurit for me ???
See how long they are???

mvh isobarik:teacher:

I from now only need to know the lenght on the medium shox.

[Karadjas]

isobarik, 80mm from top mounting point to bottom mounting point. I think these are medium, I'm not sure.

[terry.sc]

Gold shock sizes are

Overall length
Short 75mm
Medium 90mm
Long 100mm

From fixing centre to centre
Short 69mm
Medium 84mm
Long 94mm

[Panic]

Ok i have posted a few pictures of my zxr.

So far i have as you can see fibre lyte , chassis,top deck , towers all James inston version . ZX5 rims ,polished motor back plate (pending the L brace for polish) , blue steering . Have found stabilizer set front and rear but i cant install them as the towers dont have holes . Have made my own battery braces out of carbon ( havent been attached on car yet). New optima mid body and undertray are for painting , and on the way is proline buggy wind and zx5 shocks, team line 7.5 hub carriers.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o214/Crasher_2007/IMG_1876.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o214/Crasher_2007/IMG_1875.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o214/Crasher_2007/IMG_1874.jpg


But i have a problem with steering which you will see at below pictures . Top deck is too narrow and steering cant be installed. Perhaps James can help , you think it has been done an error during the manufacture of top deck?

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o214/Crasher_2007/IMG_1871.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o214/Crasher_2007/IMG_1873.jpg

Any suggestions will be valuable

Thanks

[tomstacey]

Hiya, if you go back to page 33 of this thread (or even earlier and find James's) you'll find my car and how I have fitted the Blue Steering. Basically you cut down the alu steering poles and secure the posts at the top with a washer and screw. The James Instone design does not have the steering scewed to the top deck. Don't worry its quite strong enough just secured from the bottom. :)

[Panic]

Ok well noted Tomstacey ....what do you say about the stabilizer set? Towers dont have this extra hole to fit. Shall i drill the carbon or it ll be damaged.???

[tomstacey]

I guess you could drill it. I think putting a bit of tape over the carbon first to stop it delaminating might be an idea. Shiny carbon like Fibre Lyte use is a bit of a git to drill tbh.

I don't actually run a roll bar on any of my cars, but it could be an advantage on smooth tracks.

[isobarik]

Gold shock sizes are

Overall length
Short 75mm
Medium 90mm
Long 100mm

From fixing centre to centre
Short 69mm
Medium 84mm
Long 94mm
Thanks yeah racing here i come

Btw got my new zxr yesterday shall post som pics later.

[isobarik]

Blue steering
Where can i find it ???

mvh Isobarik :teacher:

[terry.sc]

The blue steering parts are available from Kyosho, part is

39655 UNICRANK EP & GP FOR SERIES SUPER 10, MODELS SPIDER

Available to order from any Kyosho stockist.

[welshy40]

Ok well noted Tomstacey ....what do you say about the stabilizer set? Towers dont have this extra hole to fit. Shall i drill the carbon or it ll be damaged.???

NICE!!!!!

Dont bother with a front roll bar, I have only seen Manni Panesar and I think Bob Gammon ever use it and to be honest they very rareley used the front ones, only the rear.

As tom stated, if you get rid of the top black plastic spacer you have installed on the steering and cut the alloy posts down to the blue steering unicrank then use an allen key screw (the curved top one) and of course a nice washer and its perfect. This gives more slop in the main belt and actually makes the car more efficient. However if you do use and find that the belt is slipping then the way to deal with that is to make a belt tightener, which I hope you wont have to do.

[pUs]

Ok. Welshy, yet again more questions, but time is running out and I have to get the car ready...

I thought the MK1 chassis would clear the custom mid shell + underpan, but it doesn't, I have to cut away material at a lot of places. A shame really, I thought I could use the Mk1 carbon option chassis straight away, but I simply don't have time making it fit. On top of that, I don't even have the Mk1 top plate, neither a MK1 gearbplate. I have something which (I think?) is friom a lazer alpha or a lazer 2000 which looks "shorter, but ..

My question is; do "your" chassis design fit the custom mid underpan straight away? And if it does: what gearbox plate should I use with it - Mk2 or Mk1 ?Also, do I specifically need to use the "blue" kyosho steering set, or can the original items be used?

A lot of questions, I know. But I'm thinking about running the car in our last outdoor meeting before the season is over.. :-)

Edit: last resort might be running it with the original shell. But I hate it. Didn't like it back in 1991 and not now either. Oh well..

[pUs]

NICE!!!!!

Dont bother with a front roll bar, I have only seen Manni Panesar and I think Bob Gammon ever use it and to be honest they very rareley used the front ones, only the rear.

As tom stated, if you get rid of the top black plastic spacer you have installed on the steering and cut the alloy posts down to the blue steering unicrank then use an allen key screw (the curved top one) and of course a nice washer and its perfect. This gives more slop in the main belt and actually makes the car more efficient. However if you do use and find that the belt is slipping then the way to deal with that is to make a belt tightener, which I hope you wont have to do.

Btw, welshy.. don't mean to sound picky, but you keep mention "Bob" Gammon.. my old RCMC mags lists him as "Rob" all the time.. ;)

[pUs]

The shocks, as smooth as butter:

whoa whoa.. wait a second.

I thought I saw a pic of the rear end of your car with medium shocks? But that thing you have on the front definetely look like rear shocks, but with short pistons in it. Swap them shock bodies around, and things will be much more nicely set up. :)

[welshy40]

Btw, welshy.. don't mean to sound picky, but you keep mention "Bob" Gammon.. my old RCMC mags lists him as "Rob" all the time.. ;)

We called him Bob, just habit I suppose. Yes his name was Rob.

Anyway the blue steering resolves bump steer. The standard items were not very easy to work with in reducing bump steer, hence why its a must in the car. You dont have to raise the steering plate much (or the ball joints) to stop bumpsteer.

The chassis I designed is based on a ZX or Mk1 ZXR chassis, but a bit narrower so it fits perfectly into the LWB optima mid shell or ZXS shell and undertrays (like Toms pictures show as he has the same chassis). Also the MK1 motor plate as the Mk 2 wouldnt fit as its narrower.

The top deck also was designed with countersunk holes so you should replace the existing screws as well. It makes it look nicer as well.

[terry.sc]

My question is; do "your" chassis design fit the custom mid underpan straight away? And if it does: what gearbox plate should I use with it - Mk2 or Mk1 ?Also, do I specifically need to use the "blue" kyosho steering set, or can the original items be used?

You don't NEED the blue steering parts, they have the same geometry just they are a lot stiffer and stronger than the standard parts. I still run the original Lazer parts on mine and have had no problems and no bump steer either using the ZX-R geometry. Changing to ZX-RR kingpins does mean having to adjust the ball joints on the steering bar down a little to remove the small amount of bump steer present at the extremes of travel. Kyosho use a pair of tapered washers to space the ball joints down on the ZX-RR to correct the geometry, as you use a ball stud you can unscrew the ball until the geometry is correct then use the nut on top to lock it into place.

[tomstacey]

I agree with Terry. The Blue parts are MUCH stiffer than the bendy ZX ones. As for bump steer, it can take a while to fettle it out, but that is due to me using a lot of non standard front end parts which change the geometry. I guess the same must be true for Welshy40...

[terry.sc]

Ok well noted Tomstacey ....what do you say about the stabilizer set? Towers dont have this extra hole to fit. Shall i drill the carbon or it ll be damaged.???
Very rare to find a Lazer using anti roll bars, they aren't needed normally. My on road Lazer touring car conversion ran with both front and rear anti roll bars, but that isn't designed for off road.

If you want to fit them it is easy to do. Make sure you have a new 2.6mm drill bit first, the carbon will blunt it very quickly. Use masking tape on both sides of the shock mount, draw out where you want the holes to be, then make a mark in the carbon to centre the drill bit, I use a 0.3mm drill bit to make a dimple. Now clamp the shock tower down to a solid piece of wood, this is to prevent breakout in the carbon, where around the drill exit the carbon can delaminate. Drill slowly, not putting much pressure on the drill but just enough to keep the drill moving. Once you have drilled the 4 holes needed throw the drill bit away, it will probably be worn out already.

[welshy40]

You don't NEED the blue steering parts, they have the same geometry just they are a lot stiffer and stronger than the standard parts. I still run the original Lazer parts on mine and have had no problems and no bump steer either using the ZX-R geometry. Changing to ZX-RR kingpins does mean having to adjust the ball joints on the steering bar down a little to remove the small amount of bump steer present at the extremes of travel. Kyosho use a pair of tapered washers to space the ball joints down on the ZX-RR to correct the geometry, as you use a ball stud you can unscrew the ball until the geometry is correct then use the nut on top to lock it into place.

Thats news to me. With the blue unicrank steering reduced bump steer by raising the silver plate. Yes Terry is right it is stiffer but thats as far as I agree on that point.

The standard unit (which was used in every car until the ZXS) all had major bump steer.

The main problem was the black steering unicrank. You had to raise the plate alot to stop it (its actually lower than the blue mount)

But then again the standard rubbish ball joints that were supplied also brought in a lot of slop as well. We tended to raise or lower (I have forgotten which, but think lower) the ball joints on the stering hub (you cut the bump off the ball joint screw hole) and also mess with the plate to get it spot on. I saw one of the Japanese drivers using this and asked why, as at the time I didnt know and his answer was the bumpsteer. Hence why I used it and its zero bumpsteer no matter how much travel you have on your shocks.

I did use associated balljoints later on but was at the time using the standard ones, but then again the ball joint height was roughly the same position so not a problem using different makes.

I did however decide that the standard baljloint that screws into the top of the castor blocks was causing problems and did away with it and drilled a screw hole on the inner side of the team line blue castor block and that did away with the tie rod rubbing the castor block.

[welshy40]

Original, can't remember when I bought it either, gotta be 10 years ago. although I still have an unpainted Kamtec around somewhere. Nicely moulded, but that gotta be the heaviest lexan body I've ever held in my hands. It's twice the weight of the original body. :mad:

Here is the website where I got my Optima Mid LWB shell from. Its almost identical to the ZXS, just the windows are designed differently and there are no air scoops on the side. Also the undertray has the screw lumps on, but it doesnt get damaged easily. Worth the money.

Im gonna talk to the owner and see if he would be interested in copying the zxs shell and undertray

(undertray by the way is now at the moment being copied by fibreshells, so will be three times stronger than the standard undertray, and of course will be black as its glass fibre).

At least you can now buy the undertray well in a month as the owner is in China at the mo, and all that is in the air at the moment is the shell but sooner or later it will be available as well.

check out the link

http://www.kamtec.co.uk/products.php?Prod_ID=99&prod_cat=3

[terry.sc]

Thats news to me. With the blue unicrank steering reduced bump steer by raising the silver plate. Yes Terry is right it is stiffer but thats as far as I agree on that point.
The standard unit (which was used in every car until the ZXS) all had major bump steer.
The main problem was the black steering unicrank. You had to raise the plate alot to stop it (its actually lower than the blue mount)
Something we will always disagree on. My Lazer ZX with the ZX upper suspension link has no bump steer with the standard thin washer between the steering link and the bellcranks to move the steering link up 0.5mm. My ZX-RR front suspension has a thick nut added to move the ball joint down, not up, on the steering link to fix the small amount of bump steer.

I did however decide that the standard balljoint that screws into the top of the castor blocks was causing problems and did away with it and drilled a screw hole on the inner side of the team line blue castor block and that did away with the tie rod rubbing the castor block.But what did that do to the front end geometry and roll centre? I presume you lowered it on the shock mount as well. If I was running a short top link like that I would expect to have to move the ball joints on the steering link even further down, not up.

But my way works for me and yours works for you and we will always have a difference of opinion on this.
Either way I will again say you don't need the blue parts, if you feel the geometry is wrong the standard setup can also be fixed without buying the blue unicrank.

[pUs]

You don't NEED the blue steering parts, they have the same geometry just they are a lot stiffer and stronger than the standard parts.

Calm down.. :) The reaon I ask is because I'm pretty sure that welshy's top plate doesn't have any holes at all for the steering posts that hold the whole steering assembly. Hence the question if I *have* to use that blue arrangement out of practical reasons, or if original stuff can be used. I have zero bump steer on my car so I don't feel like changing it either.

[terry.sc]

Welshys top plate doesn't have any holes, so the options (for whichever steering setup you have ;) ) are to either cut down the posts like others have done or buy a pair of Optima Mid posts which are the same size and a perfect fit. The Mid posts are part number OT-120 and you will need a pair of 4mm E clips to hold the steering parts on the posts.

[welshy40]

Welshys top plate doesn't have any holes, so the options (for whichever steering setup you have ;) ) are to either cut down the posts like others have done or buy a pair of Optima Mid posts which are the same size and a perfect fit. The Mid posts are part number OT-120 and you will need a pair of 4mm E clips to hold the steering parts on the posts.

Now that is something that I needed when I was designing it, the part numbers. I actually went through some of Ripmax's old stock and found the poles by chance. Now they were held on by an E-clip so maybe Terry has hit it on the head, or the alternative is do what Tom did and cut the poles down. You will have to use a washer on these E-clip posts at the top as there should be enough room for it to stop the steering moving up the posts.

Terry, the unicranks are different, yes they look the same but the blue one is thicker and due to this is actually in a higher position (put them side by side and you can see it) hence why it resolved the bump steer as there was no spacing required (well a lot less than the black one). I did get given the ZXRR one that Jamie Booth prefered but I had a lot more problems with getting the car to totally zero the bumpsteer. If you space the shocks (I didnt all the time) then you have none, but without spacing the bumpsteer is still there (at full height and lower height) and this is why I dont like the ZXR or RR shaped steering plate or unicrank.

The castor block - by moving the hole from the outer to the inner this stopped the tie rod section hitting the castor block when the car is flat on the deck (from jumping etc) so to stop the friction and problems that this did cause I repositioned the hole to the inner of the block (there is a place on the team liine hub that sticks out as an obvious place to do this).

All it does is stop hinderence on the wishbone movement with zero spacers in the shocks (I use body roll on certain tracks so full travel will be required). and there is no alteration to the shock tower positions. You just get rid of the kyosho item and replace with associated ball joints. The idea is to have the wishbone and tie rod on almost the same angle, as well as the rear. It works better, and if you have a Lazer ZXS you will see that they have designed that car with that precise design in mind, so obvioulsy the team had gone down the same route.

I think i have explained it better this time.

[welshy40]

Guys,

This will interest you. The web site that i attached above on this page for the company that does shells is taking one of my ZXS shells and undertray and will make a mold. I rekon in two months time this will be available upon request.

And dont forget if you race on rough tracks where the undertray takes a pounding then the fibreshells is now taking a mold of my undertray as we speak as well as the plastic gear cover plates and gear cover (ZXS only) so now this should solve a few problems an I hope this helps you all out.

Tom - what you think about that?

[isobarik]

Lazer zxr
http://www.rc10b4.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/3348

still waiting for som proper shox

[tomstacey]

Hi Welshy,

Yes i'd be up for a Fibre tray, how heavy will it be though? Do you know?

Also, Isobarik - Why don't you buy a set of associated shocks to fit a B3? They go straight on a ZXR and work a treat.

[welshy40]

Tom,

Unsure, but ive ordered three, one for each of my cars so you will know soon when you see for yourself.

[isobarik]

hm.....my picture did not show...hm ...here is the link.
http://www.rc10b4.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/3348/size/big/sort/1/cat/510
test it...
mvh isobarik :teacher:

[pUs]

hm.....my picture did not show...hm ...here is the link.
http://www.rc10b4.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/3348/size/big/sort/1/cat/510
test it...
mvh isobarik :teacher:

Whoa, some old-school batteries in that one. :) God I how hated those back in the days. But there was a point, mid-92 or something, when you had to run them to be really competitive..

[isobarik]

Yeah thats some old school i dont think they work because the quality , well what can you say it was missing or something:D.


pUs how is it going with the shox ???

i really need them if i intend to kick youre ass at the RM :D

mvh Isobarik :teacher:

[fabolousRC]

http://www.rc10b4.com/gallery/data/510/2236DSC00109.JPG

[welshy40]

FabolousRC

Why didnt you put the esc side ways instead of forward facing, that way you wouldnt need to have cut the undertray. Still is my favourite Lazer and the car was great (well the metal shock towers let it down) and I kept it from 89 to 2002 and it was used and abused and kept going.

[isobarik]

FabolousRC

Why didnt you put the esc side ways instead of forward facing, that way you wouldnt need to have cut the undertray. Still is my favourite Lazer and the car was great (well the metal shock towers let it down) and I kept it from 89 to 2002 and it was used and abused and kept going.


Well I just bought the car and it came this way .
i have just owned it for a week so it hasent been modified by me .....yet....

mvh isobarik:teacher:

[pUs]

Yeah thats some old school i dont think they work because the quality , well what can you say it was missing or something:D.


pUs how is it going with the shox ???

i really need them if i intend to kick youre ass at the RM :D

mvh Isobarik :teacher:

Ah, we'll sort it out, PM or email me again. I won't be at the nationals, some stuff came up.. but I'll fix the car during the winter. It looks as if it will be some buggy indoor races this year, that'll be good I reckon.

[welshy40]

Ah, we'll sort it out, PM or email me again. I won't be at the nationals, some stuff came up.. but I'll fix the car during the winter. It looks as if it will be some buggy indoor races this year, that'll be good I reckon.

Where are you living? What surface do you race on? Carpet racing well I can help you there with a good setting, I was fifth in the UK at carpet racing so can aid you in making it a bit more pleasant to drive.

[welshy40]

Right now I am having problems. Apparantly the Kyosho crew didnt make the driveshafts long enough on the ZXS and even the Team Atlas ones (I managed to get a set brand new) are the same length and the fronts keep popping out.

I am now going to find out what MIP parts fit (i never got around to completing the ZXR idea) and when I am happy will post the parts. However the front ujs may be a fraction too long for the ZXR but I will try it on Toms car and see if its ok.

[welshy40]

Well today was interesting. I recall someone saying that the lazers only made one A final at the worlds, and as we know that is not the case. I also noticed that the ZX-S cars (two of them) made the A worlds in 95, and didnt do to bad either. Just a useless bit of information I thought youd like to know.

Oh yes I also heard that someone was unsure on what the scoops on the ZXS shell are for, the front is for cooling the ESC and the rear one is for cooling the motor. If anyone says other wise then they obviously do not have a clue.

[pUs]

Where are you living? What surface do you race on? Carpet racing well I can help you there with a good setting, I was fifth in the UK at carpet racing so can aid you in making it a bit more pleasant to drive.

I live in Sweden. it's not decided yet, but it looks as we will be running foam tyres on regular carpet.

A few ideas might be good to get it started. I actually did a fair amount of running with the car already over 10 years ago and most of it indoors. I remember I often ran a gear diff at the rear and associated shocks.. that's about all I remember. ;)

About the worlds.. the Lazer actually made three worlds a-finals. There were three cars (or perhaps 4, can't remember) in the a-main at the worlds in the US in 1991, infact I read that magazine just a few days ago. Jack Johnson actually was in contention for the win but lost it in the 3rd a-main. Again in 1993 (just one car) and as you said at Yatabe arena in 1995.

[pUs]

Right now I am having problems. Apparantly the Kyosho crew didnt make the driveshafts long enough on the ZXS and even the Team Atlas ones (I managed to get a set brand new) are the same length and the fronts keep popping out.

I am now going to find out what MIP parts fit (i never got around to completing the ZXR idea) and when I am happy will post the parts. However the front ujs may be a fraction too long for the ZXR but I will try it on Toms car and see if its ok.

Are you sure about this? My rear outdrives are very long indeed on my original ZX-S (not the evo). By the look of it them driveshafts should never be able to fall out. But I haven't run the car, so..

Edit: Ah, you meant the front ones..

[welshy40]

Are you sure about this? My rear outdrives are very long indeed on my original ZX-S (not the evo). By the look of it them driveshafts should never be able to fall out. But I haven't run the car, so..

Edit: Ah, you meant the front ones..

Yes front, the way around them popping out was to space the shocks but this takes away some of the handling (I use body roll in and out of corners and this aides grip to the front) so I am at a loss at the moment. Still I am up for a challenge.

After I have completed my MIP Legend RC10 stealth flat graphite chassis car and B3, and ZXS (the third one Tom will be having) I will be able to afford to buy bits and pieces to find the bits that will work. Any way the two RC10 cars will be complete by the end of this month as well as the ZXS (all depending on fibrelyte and how quick they can make the angled chassis, so as its not so simple to make it could be longer)

Yes you are correct on the worlds, I just read it in an article in an old Radio race car magazine, or was it model cars.

For indoors I would opt for using yellow mini pins as the grip is far superior than foams - uncut, with them you need to have the car sitting almost flat on the deck (well almost touching on the rear and a fraction higher on the front), 7.5 degrees on the castor at the front and if you are using the gold shocks use the blue traxxas or mip rubber seals and 30 wt front with 1 hole, and 40 wt rear with 3 holes (if you can find 3 otherwise 30 wt with 2 holes will be close to the setting) and front springs schumacher grey and rear springs schumacher white - if you have them, they are still available or try using the associated springs such as green on the rear and silver on the front. You can either use a roll bar or not, but depending on how much front end steering you want. This setting got me 5th in the indoor championships in the UK and beat quite a lot of F1 team yokomo, schumacher named racers, so it does work.

[welshy40]

Has anyone noticed that we have lost a few written sections? I do recall someone saying that a belt had frayed and my response was it was down to the lack of use. Whats going on with this web site? I think we have lost a page or two.

[YR4Dude]

Has anyone noticed that we have lost a few written sections? I do recall someone saying that a belt had frayed and my response was it was down to the lack of use. Whats going on with this web site? I think we have lost a page or two.

Wow!:eek: 5 years and 43pages later and this thread is still going.

I think perhaps the integrity of the thread is faltering due to its massive size. I have seen other large threads on forums break only to start a version 2 thread.

Welshy - You have accounted to more than 3/4 of the content on this thread. Perhaps you should be the one to start version 2.

Its so amazing that there are so many people that passionate about the old belt driven Lazers. As for me, its obvious I have moved on as my family is taking most of my time.

Okay, I have many parts. Please don't PM with specific part numbers. I never found the time to catalog it all and I'm not going to have the time to service individual parts requests. What I will be doing is keeping a few parts for myself and then offering the rest as a bulk lot to whoever is interested in picking it up. I also have some rolling or partially rolling chassis to offer as well. If possible, I may post pictures on this forum but it may be against forum rules. So if you are interested, PM me your e-mail address and I will send you all pics. I may break it up into smaller lots or may leave it as a whole. You guys can then decide and make offers. I'd rather the parts go to you guys who can use them than some speculator on Flee-bay picking it up to recycle into "Vintage" RC.:rolleyes:

[welshy40]

There appears to still be a problem with this site, as I put something on the site and the next day its been wiped. Tsk Tsk!!

Anyway YR4 Dude, thanks and long time no hear matey. welcome back. Id be tempted to start a new one off, but why bother as the information is all here for the taking.

So your selling some stuff (me too but mine are two ZXS buggies and one RC10 MIP Legend, but im keeping the mint blue prototype ZXS and will use only on carpet, as I find it a pan to clean when racing outdoors). Well if there are any ZXS parts let me know and i will have.

[YR4Dude]

.... mine are two ZXS buggies and one RC10 MIP Legend....

I don't think I have any ZXS(a little too exotic) stuff. Most of my stuff are just ZXR and ZX stuff.

RC10MIP??? Whoa:eek: You take me back. Had one of them but it never worked right. Hubs kept breaking. Pricey too. It was my first "a la carte" buggy.(built from premium parts - no kit; pre RC10 Graphite) I also knew Eustace through a mutual friend. Take care of it, I wish I had with mine.

[welshy40]

I don't think I have any ZXS(a little too exotic) stuff. Most of my stuff are just ZXR and ZX stuff.

RC10MIP??? Whoa:eek: You take me back. Had one of them but it never worked right. Hubs kept breaking. Pricey too. It was my first "a la carte" buggy.(built from premium parts - no kit; pre RC10 Graphite) I also knew Eustace through a mutual friend. Take care of it, I wish I had with mine.

The guy I bought the RC10 from got the front ujs from Eustace at the 93 worlds in Basildon. He was (and still is) a very nice chap. I can understand why he has done so well as his customer service is second to none. I do not have a bad word to say re MIP. When i have finished it I will sell. Its all new except the chassis but that can also be made smooth and new again, even tho its in a very good condition.

My ZXS and ZXS prototype are also going under the hammer as I really dont need so many cars to race. I have a large pile of spares now that Kyosho sorted me out with so I no longer need the cars for spares, so maybe in a couple of months I will put them online.

[pUs]

Wow!:eek: 5 years and 43pages later and this thread is still going.

I think perhaps the integrity of the thread is faltering due to its massive size. I have seen other large threads on forums break only to start a version 2 thread.

Welshy - You have accounted to more than 3/4 of the content on this thread. Perhaps you should be the one to start version 2.

Its so amazing that there are so many people that passionate about the old belt driven Lazers. As for me, its obvious I have moved on as my family is taking most of my time.

Okay, I have many parts. Please don't PM with specific part numbers. I never found the time to catalog it all and I'm not going to have the time to service individual parts requests. What I will be doing is keeping a few parts for myself and then offering the rest as a bulk lot to whoever is interested in picking it up. I also have some rolling or partially rolling chassis to offer as well. If possible, I may post pictures on this forum but it may be against forum rules. So if you are interested, PM me your e-mail address and I will send you all pics. I may break it up into smaller lots or may leave it as a whole. You guys can then decide and make offers. I'd rather the parts go to you guys who can use them than some speculator on Flee-bay picking it up to recycle into "Vintage" RC.:rolleyes:


I'm very, very interested in buying a large batch of ZXR parts. If and when you manage to sort out what parts you wanna sell, just let me know and I'm sure we could work something out. Cheers /Peter

[Karadjas]

I just ordered 2 Optima Mid LWB bodysets from kamtec and I'm setting up a Fibrelyte order for the ZX-R runner. Dunno why I'm posting this, I just thought I should let you people know hehe

[welshy40]

I just ordered 2 Optima Mid LWB bodysets from kamtec and I'm setting up a Fibrelyte order for the ZX-R runner. Dunno why I'm posting this, I just thought I should let you people know hehe

Mmmm Why???

You do realise Kamtec have my ZXS shell and undertray. Order that instead as he is currently making a mold. The ZXS looks a bit better. Well thats my opinion anyway. Hope that helps you out. Oh yeah also as there is a post strike on over here you may be lucky and catch him before he does make abd pack your Optima bodies. Ask if you can change to the ZXS.

[tomstacey]

Hi All,

An update on the Alu hinge pin holders:

They have been delayed I'm afraid (I know some of you have emailed me asking after them). Just not enough spare time to get on the CNC machine...

They will be on ePay as soon as possible and I'll let you guys know on here first.

p.s. Welshy - You shouldn't sell your Lazers - They are far too rare to sell on eBay to someone who'll break them and not have the knoweldge to rebuild or even worse they'll be parted out. Keep hold of them, sell the girlfriend instead! :D

[welshy40]

Hi All,

An update on the Alu hinge pin holders:

They have been delayed I'm afraid (I know some of you have emailed me asking after them). Just not enough spare time to get on the CNC machine...

They will be on ePay as soon as possible and I'll let you guys know on here first.

p.s. Welshy - You shouldn't sell your Lazers - They are far too rare to sell on eBay to someone who'll break them and not have the knoweldge to rebuild or even worse they'll be parted out. Keep hold of them, sell the girlfriend instead! :D

Dude you crack me up. Hehehe well I wouldnt dream of selling the girlfriend, but I am keeping one and of course the 2wd. Its just that I dont have the room for all and on top of that I will need the cash shortly as I am on the move and then the cost of living will be even higher there. Bugger. Still the ZXS I have need a lot of time and money to get the front end perfect and I feel that it will be better used indoors. Hell I rekon I could turn a few heads with it when I do get more time to race.

[Karadjas]

Mmmm Why???

You do realise Kamtec have my ZXS shell and undertray. Order that instead as he is currently making a mold. The ZXS looks a bit better. Well thats my opinion anyway. Hope that helps you out. Oh yeah also as there is a post strike on over here you may be lucky and catch him before he does make abd pack your Optima bodies. Ask if you can change to the ZXS.

I thought the ZXS body wouldn't fit the ZXR's wider chassis :confused:

Nothing wrong with the Optima body though, the ZXR that's getting them will be bashed so no worries about it looking good heh

If the ZXS fits I might get it for the ZXRR shelf queen I'll be building out of parts from the parts lot I got.

[welshy40]

I thought the ZXS body wouldn't fit the ZXR's wider chassis :confused:

Nothing wrong with the Optima body though, the ZXR that's getting them will be bashed so no worries about it looking good heh

If the ZXS fits I might get it for the ZXRR shelf queen I'll be building out of parts from the parts lot I got.

The Optima LWB is almost identical to the ZXS, but the ZXS has been refined and looks better, but the undertray dimensions are identical. The ZXR chassis may be very tight, i had a huge problem getting it to fit so if you already have then great. I sent my shell and undertray off to them and now the mold is currently being done, or maybe has been completed. So now you know where to buy from.

[Karadjas]

I just got the bodies from Kamtec. Let me say, the quality of these things is amazing! The lexan is crystal clear, the underbodies fit perfectly inside the bodies and this is just an amazing product in every aspect.

[welshy40]

I just got the bodies from Kamtec. Let me say, the quality of these things is amazing! The lexan is crystal clear, the underbodies fit perfectly inside the bodies and this is just an amazing product in every aspect.

Yep they sure are. Im going to hopefully get my ZXS shells from him soon. He has made a mold from my new shell, so now we have a supplier for kyosho shells that do look the business.

[isobarik]

I would like to have an RW body ( at least i think it was them ) the one with intigrated spurgear cover, or an original body , why cant the kamtec guy make them....

[timie1]

Hi guys. I've never owned a Kyosho, but I am considering one now, the ZX5 in either kit or RTR version.
Is there anything I should know about the problems it commonly has? How does the ZX5 race? I mean competitively. I'd like something that is tough enough for playing on the streets, not bashing it to find it's breaking points. And also to be competitive should I ever race it. What sort of ground clearance does it have in stock form? In my opinion it is one of the best looking 4wd buggies around. Also, how many parts are interchangeable with Tamiya buggies? Like the wheel hexes and wheels, and metric parts, not like Associated.
Can the driveline and chassis handle the power of a brushless setup? Can a 7 cell pack fit in the chassis? Also, where is the best place to get parts from?

Sorry for all the "noob" questions. I've been in the hobby for over 15 years, so I'm not a noob, just a noob with Kyosho. I've always had respect for Kyosho, but I've never bought one. Maybe that will change!!:)

Thanks

[welshy40]

Hi guys. I've never owned a Kyosho, but I am considering one now, the ZX5 in either kit or RTR version.
Is there anything I should know about the problems it commonly has? How does the ZX5 race? I mean competitively. I'd like something that is tough enough for playing on the streets, not bashing it to find it's breaking points. And also to be competitive should I ever race it. What sort of ground clearance does it have in stock form? In my opinion it is one of the best looking 4wd buggies around. Also, how many parts are interchangeable with Tamiya buggies? Like the wheel hexes and wheels, and metric parts, not like Associated.
Can the driveline and chassis handle the power of a brushless setup? Can a 7 cell pack fit in the chassis? Also, where is the best place to get parts from?

Sorry for all the "noob" questions. I've been in the hobby for over 15 years, so I'm not a noob, just a noob with Kyosho. I've always had respect for Kyosho, but I've never bought one. Maybe that will change!!:)

Thanks

Unfortunately we havent really got a clue (well more like me) as I am not much of a fan of the ZX5 as its a shaft drive. However nothing is interchangeable with another manufacturer so your pretty much stuck with those parts, but some companies do make alloy options etc so can be beefed up to withstand a hammering, but this site is specifically for ZX/ZXS/ZXR and alpha and the ZX5 is the one car that never really made it as its a step backwards being staft and not a belt drive.

The ZX5 is weaker than the old predecessors and if you really want a good car then I would recommend paying that bit more and get an assosicated 4wd buggy or just get the Kyosho 2wd car as that is a good design and is up for a hammering (I owned the Type R and that was good). The 2wd is cost effective and speed wont be much different from a 4wd. Dont forget 4wd is pricey as you have lots of work to do to it after each run whereas a 2wd doesnt really need much work.

Anyway thats my two bits.

[welshy40]

I would like to have an RW body ( at least i think it was them ) the one with intigrated spurgear cover, or an original body , why cant the kamtec guy make them....

He needs the original new shell to do it, besides that shell was rubbish, and I didnt like it as it damaged my spur gears and almost cost me an A final. The best solution is the gear cover and shell, as the gear cover does just that and protects the spur gear. They now do the ZXS shell and undertray so go for it and place an order.

[Karadjas]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KYOSHO-LAZER-CAR-S-NEW-SPARE-PARTS_W0QQitemZ230193960889QQihZ013QQcategoryZ3406 3QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD4VQQcmdZViewItem
I thought someone might be interested

[filosganga]

As some of you who have been following the thread will know, I've been building a Lazer ZXR/ZXS Hybrid much in the vein of Welshy40's. I thought I'd post up some pics of my progress so far. :)

The newest mods are:

Graphite front knuckles rather than the alu ones I had fitted
Inferno 10 wishbones (more webbing and therefore more strength)
All round Alu wishbone pivots
TF5/ZXS/ZX5 rear hubs
ZXS/ZX5 shocks
Full Fibre-lyte Carbon kit
ZXS Steering set
New belts and bearings
Re-located Aerial mount

She's looking almost new again, just waiting on a new shell. :)

http://194.83.41.249/ZXRS/1.JPG
http://194.83.41.249/ZXRS/2.JPG
http://194.83.41.249/ZXRS/3.JPG
http://194.83.41.249/ZXRS/4.JPG

excuse me Tom
What kind of battery holder is it?
and it is possible to buy it on-line?

[welshy40]

These are Schumacher battery straps, unfortunately I cannot remember what part number they are but I did post the part number way back on this thread. Schumacher still do this part and you can email them and ask or browse the schumacher web site.

[filosganga]

I found it! it is U744R item by shumacher. Thanks a lot!

[ballin]

You guys seem to be the ones to ask! My Dad gave this to me when I was a nipper and I've had lots of fun out of it but never quite worked out what it is!!
Can anyone tell me which model it is, and roughly what its worth nowadays?

http://www.aseo23.dsl.pipex.com/tamiya/ky1.jpg
http://www.aseo23.dsl.pipex.com/tamiya/ky2.jpg
http://www.aseo23.dsl.pipex.com/tamiya/ky3.jpg

[adam lancia]

That's a Turbo Optima Mid Special I believe, either that or an SE with the extended wheelbase chassis conversion. Either way, it's a fairly rare car and it looks like it's in great shape. Nice!!!

[ballin]

Hi Adam,

Thanks for your reply, seems to be sooo many different types of Lazer I'm glad I asked!!

Also, as much as I hate to do it, any idea on what I should ask for it (£)? We're moving abroad and I'm having a big clear out. I also have another Lazer which I will post pictures of, I think that has a steel chassis and belt drive, but can't remember for sure!

[filosganga]

Relayer - Manage attachments in the reply to thread section is what you need to click on to attach a picture from your desk top. But it has to be a certain size otherwise it wont accept it.

I have just shown my car to a Greek Lazer fan, who came over here to check it out, and I think he went home today upset that he couldnt take my car with him.

He said that the drive train is more free than the standard cars, and we got a good 8 mins out of a pack of cells so was very impressed. He also liked my shock mounts and top deck designs, but he has a few good ideas himself so you may be getting feed back from someone else soon. He thought my overall setup before he saw the car was too soft, but after seeing it go I have changed his mind.

Also there will be a company in Greece who is going to produce the ZX-S bodyshells so when Tower run out they will be available from Greece, as they do the ZXR shell/undertray there at the moment.

In about a month (hopefully) I will be passing a lot of spares and all my gear including my Lazer to a chap an hours drive from London. He is a capable racer and has managed to take pole position from me at an event about a month ago (which is hard work when Im firing on all cylinders) so I think the cars going to a good home.

Im sorry guys for not staying in the game with the best car ever made, but I need the cash at the mo......boohoo. But all the info I have posted has improved the car to a higher level than the newer cars out now so I would try and do what I have done, and boy will you notice the difference.

1. I put the Kyosho Rear V TF4 rear hubs on (lowest holes only on the hubs and outer on the top from Tower Hobbies)

2. Associated balljoints all round

3. ZX steering brace (the straight one)

4. Kyosho Special Uni-Crank SPGP/Pure Ten - the blue steering parts I listed earlier to stop bump steer available from Tower hobbies

5. 7 degree front castor blocks using the inner hole to move the block further out to widen the front

6. W5063 front Universal driveshafts (the 3mm longer version from Tower Hobbies) which work with the castor block

7. Carbon fibre L brace for the gearbox

8. Carbon fibre servo mount for the servo

9. Associated screw set for the ZX/ZXR, and ball joint nuts

10. Carbon Fibre front and rear shock towers, I redesigned - the latest ones I have listed as the cars handling improves with them.

11. The new carbon fibre top deck I designed.

12. The Kyosho Hyper clutch (the same item in the ZX-S) which improves the performance, but you have to throw away the solid bushing which goes on the layshaft and swap it with a thinner bearing, as this pushes the two layshaft gears close together and stops the friction caused by the layshaft moving left and right on the two big bearings - it should not move at all.

13. Get the Associated B2 servo mounts, and put on the Lazer. This moves the servo further in the chassis so you will have to have two silver poles to hold the top deck up in the middle of the chassis, but the one hole not to be used on the top deck is the outer one by the servo, as the servo is sitting over the hole - so you use the middle one instead. There is no diiference in flex, and this improves the weight distribution by moving the servo as close to the belt as possible. You will need a Kimbrough Large servo saver (this is a worthy buy especially in a smash)

14. The chassis I designed. It fits the ZX-S shell and with the batteries closer to the centre and further forwards the car is more stable and balanced on all surfaces.

15. The rear wishbone holder (pivot holder). On the instruction manual for the Lazer its supposed to be with the angled sections pointing up - thats wrong, the angled section where the wishbone pivot poles go need to be facing towards the ground so angled downwards. The one by the motor the instruction manual is correct. The one behind the front gearbox is correct. The front you need the item to be in the highes two holes on the front gearbox so the wishbones have the maximum kick up. Also the pivot holder should be pointing downwards like the rear one.

16. The position for the tie rods on the shock towers is on a few pages back where I posted pics of the front and rear shock towers that make the car better. I left the ball joints on so you guys could copy. It improves the car in the holes I have used. Try it yourself to see what I mean.

17. Camber 1 degree all round, however you can do 2 if you feel 1 is not enough. I use 1 degree, but have found 2 to work on certain tracks better.

18. Shocks - I use Traxxas TRX1 as they are the best ever made, however Associated are the next best. With the Associated I take out all washers and put in three mip seals and click in. This smoothes out the shocks and makes it better. Schumacher and Associated springs seem to be the best for this car, I have tried all and found them the best.

19. The shocks need 2mm of pack on each shock.

You can order the carbon fibre bits without the countersunk holes, so specify that you dont want them countersunk otherwise they might turn up with countersunk holes for the associated crews.

I hope this helps.

The front hub you installed, are TF-4 Hubs? they are 7 degree, but what is the defautl lazer-zx caster degree using the upper holes? the result degree is default + hub degree.

So, in your opinion, it is possible to use zx-5 front hub?

In my lazer-zx i use the zx-5 hub with zx-5 universal shaft (62.5mm) on rear. I wanr use the zx-5 hub and zx-5 universal shaft (68mm) on front.

what you think about?

[welshy40]

Actually you have it the wrong way around. The TF4 hubs are for the rear of the car. Using the same holes as the standard ZXR on the wishbone pivot holes.

The front hubs I used were either the 7 degree standard ZXR front castor blocks or the Team line blue 7.5 degree (my favourite due to over steer). But I used longer driveshafts and moved the castor block further out which widens the front end more than the rear, giving the car more stabability in and around corners. You will notice that there are two pivot wishbone holes on the castor blocks for the front, he inner hole is what I use, as per the pictures I put.

I am unsure if the driveshaft from the ZX5 will wrk but try it.

Does this help.

[filosganga]

...
You will notice that there are two pivot wishbone holes on the castor blocks for the front, he inner hole is what I use, as per the pictures I put.


Yes but only the zx-r castoe blocks have two holes. I have the zx castor blocks having only the last hole. So I will buy the 7 degree zx-5 to try it.

But in this case, what are the holes of front gearbox to use? the upper or lower?

P.S. Today i order a robinson super machined spur gear 48P 96T + 16T~26T silenced aluminium pinion. i'll try it soon.

[welshy40]

Yes but only the zx-r castoe blocks have two holes. I have the zx castor blocks having only the last hole. So I will buy the 7 degree zx-5 to try it.

But in this case, what are the holes of front gearbox to use? the upper or lower?

P.S. Today i order a robinson super machined spur gear 48P 96T + 16T~26T silenced aluminium pinion. i'll try it soon.

I seriously doubt the zx5 caster block will be ok with the zxr. I think it has been tried. The zx has two holes on the castor block as my one did in 1988/89. However maybe the sport version didnt. OK get the zxr 7 degree one and the longer driveshafts.

Gearbox - ok the wishbone holder screws on to the gear box, and if you want more wishbone kick up you use the upper holes, I never used the lower holes

[filosganga]

...However maybe the sport version didnt
maybe. because my first lazer was a alzer zx-sport. Because is hard to find lazer zx-r castor block, i'll try lazer zx-5 and TF-4 (spw101-7).

Thanks for your time

[filosganga]

This is my lazer:

http://www.filosganga.it/images/PICT0678.JPG
http://www.filosganga.it/images/PICT0679.JPG
http://www.filosganga.it/images/PICT0680.JPG

do you like it?

[ballin]

Guys sorry to ask again, but any ideas on the value to my possible Turbo Optima Mid Special in this post : http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=2297521&postcount=1097
Moving abroad and need a clearout but not sure what to sell it for?

[welshy40]

maybe. because my first lazer was a alzer zx-sport. Because is hard to find lazer zx-r castor block, i'll try lazer zx-5 and TF-4 (spw101-7).

Thanks for your time

Untrue, you just have to look and you will find. Try Ben racing in the UK and time tunnel and you should be able to find, otherwise I may be able to aquire the beefy front blue team line ball raced ones like mine

[welshy40]

filosganga your car is coming on nicely. Well done. I would recommend using associated ball joints all over and if you study my car you will see that I moved the caster block holder ball joint and replaced with an associated ball joint by moving it further inwards and using a shorter tie rod, but never the less its a work of art. All you need now is the ZXR cater block and longer driveshafts and the TRF 4 or ZX5 rear hub as that makes the car handle a bit better as well.

Have a look at all the stuff I have posted and I should have or someone should have said where you can get them from. The ZX-5 is a diferent piece of kit that wont work, and if you did manage to fit it then the cars caracteristics may be different.

[welshy40]

Guys sorry to ask again, but any ideas on the value to my possible Turbo Optima Mid Special in this post : http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=2297521&postcount=1097
Moving abroad and need a clearout but not sure what to sell it for?

Unfortunately havent a clue, best bet would be to look on ebay as these are being sold, but I guess £50 upwards, as there is always someone out there who would want it, but would be best for you to sell after christmas as a lot f people will be looking for stuff like this. Have a look at the ZXR cars when they go and when the car is sold base around that. Hope that helps and good luck.

[Karadjas]

Well I've been home for a week now and my ZX-R runner is almost in running condition, it's only missing a servo saver. Excuse the chinese knock-off wheels and tyres, it's the only set I could find in my town. Electric offroad is not really hot stuff here. The rear wing still needs to be properly cut and painted, some body trimming/tidying up and that's it, it should be test-run worthy (top deck is still the bad one I got with it). I have the ZX tower on there, I didn't want to sacrifice my brand new mk2 towers for testing. Fibrelyte top deck and front tower are next on the list, right above proper wheels. Definitely a long way from how I got it though.

Before:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00714.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00715.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00716.jpg


After:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00950.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00951.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00952.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00954.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00958.jpg

Next to my other buggy (H7 Pro-R with Sirio .27), both probably equally overpowered :D
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/DSC00956.jpg

[Karadjas]

I may be able to take better pictures in the next couple of days, as in with a proper camera and in natural light

[Karadjas]

I took it for a test drive today after I came back from Xmas lunch with the family and it really is overpowered.
I started off in my back yard but it was soon obvious that it needed more space, so the street in front of my house became the new testing grounds.
Going from just below half to full throttle quickly will get it sideways, very sideways. It's probably down to the super hard cheap tyres but still, it's an awesome sight :D

With a freshly peaked 2000mah NiCd acceleration is awesome and the top speed is higher than I dared take it in the dark street. I seem to have hit the perfect gear ratio first try. It was the only pinion I had that meshed with the spur so I guess you can say I've been lucky for the third time with the ZX-R (1st getting it for the price of one paintjob, 2nd £50 boxful of parts).

A friend and I will be going bashing on the 27th, so I should be able to take some decent poser and action shots.

[welshy40]

Looking good. Yes the wheels are hideous but still its a vast improvement from the original pics. Well as you now know this car packs a punch and is still in my books one of the fastest 4wd cars you will ever own. Do it step by step and soon it will be perfect but top notch for your hard work.

[Karadjas]

Went bashing today.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1451.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1452.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1453.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1455.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1463.jpg

I'm trying to upload a video, I'll post the link as soon as youtube stops playing tricks

[Karadjas]

Here it is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12LKVbMAK7E

It's actually much better than in this video... All other jumps were perfectly level, for one

[panch]

Hi all, first post, was hoping some one could help have managed to fined my old ZXR in the loft and need to find a scource for parts and body shells etc.. i will post some pics when i get a chance.

The shell i have on it now came with it when i bought it second hand its not a lazer shell but very nice, do you know of any other shells that will fit a lazer, preferably with under trays..

Also could do with a copy of a manual, any idea where i could get one, maybe a pdf if anyone has one they would scan for me i would appreciate it..

Thanks

Lee

[welshy40]

Hi all, first post, was hoping some one could help have managed to fined my old ZXR in the loft and need to find a scource for parts and body shells etc.. i will post some pics when i get a chance.

The shell i have on it now came with it when i bought it second hand its not a lazer shell but very nice, do you know of any other shells that will fit a lazer, preferably with under trays..

Also could do with a copy of a manual, any idea where i could get one, maybe a pdf if anyone has one they would scan for me i would appreciate it..

Thanks

Lee

Lee,

Welcome aboard mate, as you have the best 4wd car there is and has ever been made, well in my opinion anyway.

PM me your email address and I will email you all the manuals I have with part numbers etc.

Also time tunnels and Ben racing would be a good start. You need the manuals to get the part numbers. I would also recommend you going from pages 8 or so onwards to now and you will see that what has been posted most parts etc but then again a lot of knowledge has come from the guys on here as well so should guide you on where to get all the parts.

I have done most of the hard work and posted everything so you should find all you need with what I have posted. I have also posted www.fibre-lyte.co.uk as they were given all the parts (chassis, braces, shock towers etc flat parts) for from me to to copy and I have modded a lot of the car as it has been bettered and will compete easily with these new cars. I would recommend the ZX steering arm though as the ZXR one isnt as good and this reduces bump steer to zero if using associated ball joints.

Also I have posted the shell manufacturer Kamtec who have the ZX-S shell which is a worthy investment with the narrower chassis which I designed via fibrelyte.

Take your time and read, as you will find better steering (the blue bits) and various other little tweaks. Keep us all posted on how you go.

[Djioul]

Hi gents !

I just got rid of a tamiya dark impact to buy the new lazer ZX5.
At least this one handles correctly the power of my Novak 6.5 !

Here are a few pictures, but I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to start a new thread, as there is some very old cars in this one !

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2821/img3378bt6.jpg
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/1037/img3379gd6.jpg

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8799/img3367tm6.jpg

And with a Porsche 235mm bodyshell to gat a Porsche 959 Dakar like (remember this car racing the Paris-Dakar in the 80's??? ) :

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/281/img3381vb0.jpg

A few videos on the snow :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7S2HG8v03U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuLN6IQ2qYU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmmEcswvyNw

Went on the pavement as well, with only 2WD after a crash from a colleagues wich bended my transmission axis !!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfbATULH3l0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LiHDYjquWY

Once the transmission was back to 4WD, we found a bigger parking and I find that I'm a little bit undergeared on this one :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDTUl-DjwVw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1S4istUPUk

[welshy40]

Hi gents !

I just got rid of a tamiya dark impact to buy the new lazer ZX5.
At least this one handles correctly the power of my Novak 6.5 !

Here are a few pictures, but I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to start a new thread, as there is some very old cars in this one !

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2821/img3378bt6.jpg
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/1037/img3379gd6.jpg

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8799/img3367tm6.jpg

And with a Porsche 235mm bodyshell to gat a Porsche 959 Dakar like (remember this car racing the Paris-Dakar in the 80's??? ) :

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/281/img3381vb0.jpg

A few videos on the snow :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7S2HG8v03U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuLN6IQ2qYU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmmEcswvyNw

Went on the pavement as well, with only 2WD after a crash from a colleagues wich bended my transmission axis !!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfbATULH3l0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LiHDYjquWY

Once the transmission was back to 4WD, we found a bigger parking and I find that I'm a little bit undergeared on this one :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDTUl-DjwVw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1S4istUPUk

Not a bad looking car, but in the wrong thread.

I thought there was a thread for the shaft Kyosho cars, but unfortunately these old cars would wipe the floor with you newer machine. Kyosho kind of went backwards with the ZX-5 but I hear a rumour in the grapevine that a belt is in the piepline. Lets hope soon and based on the ZXR / ZXS machines.

By the way what tires wre those on th efirst picture, the spikey ones?

[Djioul]

These are the standard tyres for the Tamiya DF-02. ;)

Sorry, I didn't find first the ZX5 thread as it was on the second page. ;)

[tomstacey]

:) :)

[filosganga]

Anyone know a place where i can find a zx-s bodyshell or zx-r.

[Karadjas]

http://www.kamtec.co.uk

Very high quality bodies. I have their Optima Mid LWB on my zx-r but they also have the zx-s body.

[welshy40]

http://www.kamtec.co.uk

Very high quality bodies. I have their Optima Mid LWB on my zx-r but they also have the zx-s body.

Hold fire on the shells. Kamtec will send me the very first shells for the ZXS soon as he is currently still doing a bit of work on the mold to make it correct. When I get it I will fit and post pictures. We shortly will have a place to buy our shells from and I for sure am buying a few more. Also he should (I hope) do the undertray as well.

[Ultima Pro XL]

Not a bad looking car, but in the wrong thread.

I thought there was a thread for the shaft Kyosho cars, but unfortunately these old cars would wipe the floor with you newer machine. Kyosho kind of went backwards with the ZX-5 but I hear a rumour in the grapevine that a belt is in the piepline. Lets hope soon and based on the ZXR / ZXS machines.

By the way what tires wre those on th efirst picture, the spikey ones?

As a owner of both a Turbo Optima Mid SE, 2 Lazer ZXR's and a Laxer ZX-5. I can say that the original Lazer will NOT wipe the floor with the ZX-5.
I love them all but the ZX-5 is faster. And easier to work on.

[welshy40]

As a owner of both a Turbo Optima Mid SE, 2 Lazer ZXR's and a Laxer ZX-5. I can say that the original Lazer will NOT wipe the floor with the ZX-5.
I love them all but the ZX-5 is faster. And easier to work on.

Well thats what they said about the predator and I blew the team car away down the straight, even the team yokomo manager who was watching couldnt believe it and had to come over and ask what car it was (Duh!!! it was obvious).

Still its down to how you build and maintain it. I modded it, used associated ball joints all over and allen key screws all over (I could strip the rear gear box off and put a new belt in about six minutes - Craig Harris can vouch for that) and basically made it easier to work on, and that is how the ZXRS version came about and I did out perform all the shaft cars with ease, including the team Predator before it was and after it was released.

The funny thing was I only turned up in the third round qualifiers and I hadnt raced for four years yet I put the ZXRS version straight into the A final with a carpet set up.

Funny as it was much quicker than the shafts from zero and in top end and I out paced them with a badly handling car. The only thing that lost me the win was the ball joint wasnt screwed in correclty on the shock bottom and it came off, so bad preparation by me but a point was made. The Academy is a great car as well as the ZX5 but still not as good as the one car that they all want to be, a predator (the only fault with this is its too fragile), yet that is still lacking in speed compared to the ZX, ZXR and my version ZXRS as well as the ZXS which is quicker.

I admit the shaft drives are easiy to keep clean and I do miss my tub chassis for my ZX as this stopped the dirt getting in.

Still each to their own interpretation, and the Lazer ZX works for me and not for every one else, so if it works with you give it everything and go for it.

[Ultima Pro XL]

Well thats what they said about the predator and I blew the team car away down the straight, even the team yokomo manager who was watching couldnt believe it and had to come over and ask what car it was (Duh!!! it was obvious).

Still its down to how you build and maintain it. I modded it, used associated ball joints all over and allen key screws all over (I could strip the rear gear box off and put a new belt in about six minutes - Craig Harris can vouch for that) and basically made it easier to work on, and that is how the ZXRS version came about and I did out perform all the shaft cars with ease, including the team Predator before it was and after it was released.

The funny thing was I only turned up in the third round qualifiers and I hadnt raced for four years yet I put the ZXRS version straight into the A final with a carpet set up.

Funny as it was much quicker than the shafts from zero and in top end and I out paced them with a badly handling car. The only thing that lost me the win was the ball joint wasnt screwed in correclty on the shock bottom and it came off, so bad preparation by me but a point was made. The Academy is a great car as well as the ZX5 but still not as good as the one car that they all want to be, a predator (the only fault with this is its too fragile), yet that is still lacking in speed compared to the ZX, ZXR and my version ZXRS as well as the ZXS which is quicker.

I admit the shaft drives are easiy to keep clean and I do miss my tub chassis for my ZX as this stopped the dirt getting in.

Still each to their own interpretation, and the Lazer ZX works for me and not for every one else, so if it works with you give it everything and go for it.

I still love me original Lazer and to be honest I do like belts more than the shaft drive set up.
But I was just saying that there is nothing wrong with the ZX-5. I'd like it if they made a shaft
and belt version lie the do the TF cars. But they probably will never do that.

[welshy40]

I still love me original Lazer and to be honest I do like belts more than the shaft drive set up.
But I was just saying that there is nothing wrong with the ZX-5. I'd like it if they made a shaft
and belt version lie the do the TF cars. But they probably will never do that.

Hear Hear, I agree big time with you on that, as if they did a buggy version of the touring cars then it would be very interesting.

ZX-5 is a good car, but its just lacking something but still these shaft cars are all pretty much the same.

Anyway I have a question for anyone out there that has a ZX-5, I need the length of the front and rear UJs' from the very end of both ends. I need to know if they are long than the ZXR UJ's.

[isobarik]

Hi gents !

I just got rid of a tamiya dark impact to buy the new lazer ZX5.
At least this one handles correctly the power of my Novak 6.5 !

Here are a few pictures, but I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to start a new thread, as there is some very old cars in this one !

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/2821/img3378bt6.jpg
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/1037/img3379gd6.jpg

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8799/img3367tm6.jpg

And with a Porsche 235mm bodyshell to gat a Porsche 959 Dakar like (remember this car racing the Paris-Dakar in the 80's??? ) :

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/281/img3381vb0.jpg

A few videos on the snow :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7S2HG8v03U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuLN6IQ2qYU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmmEcswvyNw

Went on the pavement as well, with only 2WD after a crash from a colleagues wich bended my transmission axis !!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfbATULH3l0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LiHDYjquWY

Once the transmission was back to 4WD, we found a bigger parking and I find that I'm a little bit undergeared on this one :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDTUl-DjwVw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1S4istUPUk

Cool Five/Ten spoke rims.
Where did you get them from ????


mvh Isobarik :cool:

[GSMnow]

I have been hunting the web and this forum and have not had any luck so far. I need to get a few parts to get a Lazer ZX back out on the track. My LHS can order the parts for me, but they don't have a book so they need the exact part numbers. If anyone could direct me to an illustrated parts list online, or a downloadeable listing, it would be great.

If someone just has the numbers for these parts, that would also work. I need the front A-Arms and the mounts on the chassis that hold the hinge pins for the front arms. I also need a rear wing mount, but I think I can make up something for that. I know there are several different versions of the Lazer, I am not totally certain which one I have. It was an E-bay purchase with no paper work, and a few "hand made" parts. It has the center diff and a one way drive to the front. I think it is just a plain ZX that has had a few parts changed as the previous owner broke it. So it has a fibre front shock tower, but the rear one is aluminum. It has both front and rear sway bars. The front hinge pin mounts were hand carved out of aluminum, and are not perfectly symetrical, so I would like new factory ones. The wheel bearings are also shot, but I can get new ones locally, but I will probably just snag them off of my shelf queen Optima Mid.

Oh, for a Body... I was able to modify a Associated B3 one to fit, and it even has an air scoop aimed at the motor area. I will post pics when I have it ready to run.

Thanks for any help
Gary M.

[isobarik]

its possible to download the manula from an french rc site just look back in the forum and i bet you will find it. I will post the adress later when i have more time.

mvh isobarik:cool:

[GSMnow]

Thanks, it would be great if you can post it. I tried looking back through this thread. I am back 10 pages now, and still have not found it. I hope I didn't miss it.

[welshy40]

I have been hunting the web and this forum and have not had any luck so far. I need to get a few parts to get a Lazer ZX back out on the track. My LHS can order the parts for me, but they don't have a book so they need the exact part numbers. If anyone could direct me to an illustrated parts list online, or a downloadeable listing, it would be great.

If someone just has the numbers for these parts, that would also work. I need the front A-Arms and the mounts on the chassis that hold the hinge pins for the front arms. I also need a rear wing mount, but I think I can make up something for that. I know there are several different versions of the Lazer, I am not totally certain which one I have. It was an E-bay purchase with no paper work, and a few "hand made" parts. It has the center diff and a one way drive to the front. I think it is just a plain ZX that has had a few parts changed as the previous owner broke it. So it has a fibre front shock tower, but the rear one is aluminum. It has both front and rear sway bars. The front hinge pin mounts were hand carved out of aluminum, and are not perfectly symetrical, so I would like new factory ones. The wheel bearings are also shot, but I can get new ones locally, but I will probably just snag them off of my shelf queen Optima Mid.

Oh, for a Body... I was able to modify a Associated B3 one to fit, and it even has an air scoop aimed at the motor area. I will post pics when I have it ready to run.

Thanks for any help
Gary M.

Gary,

PM me your email address, and I will send you pics of my car as well as a manual with all the part numbers in there. I will also recommend a few shops where you may still find some parts.

Also anything you need just ask and I will try and help you out.

[welshy40]

I forgot, body shell, well I may have a few surprises on that as well

[GSMnow]

Thanks alot Welshy and Isobarik

The little time I got to drive it before the front arm broke, I am very impressed. I honestly feel the Lazer ZX is easilly a match for the Associated B44. It seems even more nimble. I only got a couple laps with the "not quite right" front end before I caught the right front and snapped it. I was only running a 15 single brush motor and it just jumped off the corners like nothing I have driven before. This is the same motor I used to run in my Mid, and it seems much faster in the Lazer, but I am sure some of it was the Max Amps 3000 LiPo pack I was using. I am sure looking forward to getting it back on track.

[Lazerfan1]

Greetings from Iraq to all you Lazer Fanatics! Espically you Welshy40! I cannot wait to get home and try and get my Lazers back up and running! Still I need to tear everythig down and rebuild since after the Hurricaine Katrina. I need to wash and regrease and get new Radios and Electronics! So let the rebuilding begin after I get home in April!

[welshy40]

Greetings from Iraq to all you Lazer Fanatics! Espically you Welshy40! I cannot wait to get home and try and get my Lazers back up and running! Still I need to tear everythig down and rebuild since after the Hurricaine Katrina. I need to wash and regrease and get new Radios and Electronics! So let the rebuilding begin after I get home in April!


Wahey matey!!! Long time no hear, heck a lots happend over the big pond for me. I still think about you mate, as you have had a real S**t time, with all that you told me about. Still glad that your in one piece and hope that you stay that way so you can come back and do a rebuild that does everyone on this site proud. Keep us posted mate.

P.S, I guess youve noticed I managed to get the ZXS (eventually)

[Lazerfan1]

You got it james! I cannot wait to go hame and just take a week and work on my cars reuilding them and getting them back up to standards! Then I will be able to go and race and see how many New Losis and Associateds *** I may Kick! As well as any other new 4-wheel drive vehicles out there! Lazers RULE!! IT would be nice if Kyosho came out with an updated Belt drive Lazer again! BUt It is nice to kick some new tail around the track with an OLD Nolstolgic Vehicle!
WElshy Congrats o getting the ZXS! Awsome choice for you!

[welshy40]

Mate, do you still have my email address? Well if you do mail me, or PM me you email again.

[Karadjas]

Just one week till i'm back home with my zx-r. I got it some FibreLyte stuff (top deck, gearbox brace, front tower + servo plate) and yes, finally, white dish rims(Tamiya)!

[welshy40]

Just one week till i'm back home with my zx-r. I got it some FibreLyte stuff (top deck, gearbox brace, front tower + servo plate) and yes, finally, white dish rims(Tamiya)!

Oops get rid of the tamiya wheels, as they will ruin the handling of the car. If you want it to handle well get the white Kyosho wheels that are used on the ZX5 (not the SP) as they are what this car was designed for.

Good upgrades

[Karadjas]

I won't run the tamiya wheels, they'll just be my clean set for shelf time

I have 3 sets of other butt-ugly rims to go through first

[Lazerfan1]

Man the more I read and the more I listen to everyone on this site! IT makes me even more homesick! I really cannot wait to go home and start my teardown and rebuild of my PRECIOUS LAZER!!!!

[welshy40]

Man the more I read and the more I listen to everyone on this site! IT makes me even more homesick! I really cannot wait to go home and start my teardown and rebuild of my PRECIOUS LAZER!!!!

Mate, hurry up and get home. I want to see your rebuild mate, and feel free for any advice, just in case youve forgotten (NOT!!!! hehehehe). Matey, its gr8 that your back and that your well mate. Boy have I got a lot to tell you.

[Lazerfan1]

Hey thanks for words or encouragmet! I cannot wait to get home in APRIL!!! Counting down the days!!! But all good things come to those who wait! Give me a quick email at th Rcgeico@aol.com and tell me all about the past years happenings! Later from Ken

[welshy40]

Hey thanks for words or encouragmet! I cannot wait to get home in APRIL!!! Counting down the days!!! But all good things come to those who wait! Give me a quick email at th Rcgeico@aol.com and tell me all about the past years happenings! Later from Ken

Email sent mate. You could have PMd it instead but what the heck mate.

[Lazerfan1]

Hey go and check your email!
KEN

[GSMnow]

I am striking out trying to get from A-arms for my Lazer ZX. The part number I have out of an older manual is LA26, is this correct? Anyone able to get them? Is there a newer arm that will fit without too much modification? Can we use the arms from a ZX5?

[welshy40]

I am striking out trying to get from A-arms for my Lazer ZX. The part number I have out of an older manual is LA26, is this correct? Anyone able to get them? Is there a newer arm that will fit without too much modification? Can we use the arms from a ZX5?

LA26 are available, even the graphite ones are. Contact http://www.goldstarstockists.com/tamiyaparts/tpx/kyosho.htm and ask them or try your Kyosho distributer in the country you are in.

[GSMnow]

I hope to find out about the arms very soon. It turns out he asked for LA25 because the print of the scanned manual was hard to read. I magnified the PDF on my computer and got the correct number. He should be talking to Kyosho now, I gave him the right info on Sat, and the shop is closed Mondays. He did et me a set of the inner hinge pin holders and a standard rear belt. The wing mount kit looks good, but my rear shock tower does not have the right holes for it. I hope I have room to drill them though. I hope to have an update soon.

[gaukik]

I need your professional knowledge. Anyone can tell me the following?

-the brand of the carbon chassis and top decK
-what version is it? ZXR or ZXRR
-the belt is quite loose. I'm not sure if it is too old or it just has the shorter chassis??
-are the ZXR & ZXRR having the same length of belt?
thank you very much for your inputs....:D

[welshy40]

I need your professional knowledge. Anyone can tell me the following?

-the brand of the carbon chassis and top decK
-what version is it? ZXR or ZXRR
-the belt is quite loose. I'm not sure if it is too old or it just has the shorter chassis??
-are the ZXR & ZXRR having the same length of belt?
thank you very much for your inputs....:D

Well it looks a mix of cars, the chassis is very similar to the team chassis design of the ZXS (even tho it isnt) but I guess someone has either done a one off design or its from something else.

The front shock tower needs replacing before you next race it as it will bend and ruin the front gearbox and they are so hard to get, and the top deck and the rear tower looks ok but you really need carbon fibre as that will snap

Go to http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/ and check out the ZX and ZXR sections. If you really want to go wild buy my design (the James version) as I have proven that it makes the car even more competitive, and you can fit the ZXS shell straight on. Your chasiss looks like it will but i think its a fraction too short and explains the really slack belt.

The front and rear wishbones look familiar possibly RPM, maybe Terry or someone else can tell you what make they are as I had a set but cant remember what brand they are. They were binned as they flex and doesnt help your cars handling.

If you can buy the graphite wishbones get them as they are the best and you will only ever need two sets, one for back up if you manage to break one (I used the same set for ten years and they were still exceptionally strong).

Also the front belt is really loose on yours, i do think yours is a fraction too loose tho, mine i could push it thru the top deck tho so maybe its ok, and the car is more efficient with a loose front belt - ignore people who say otherwise as they really havent a clue. If your belt slips on the front diff then I would recomend fitting a tensioner on the other side of the top deck opposite the receiver. I would recommend geting an alloy plate instead if that awful carbon fibre plate surrounding the motor, as the CF doesnt disipate the heat as good as the alloy one.

Belts from ZX, ZXR Mk1 and Mk2, ZXRR all are the same size.

The rear belt in the gearbox need the brass pulleys as per the instructions otherwise they will strip and if you have new gears on the layshaft and new belts all round then youll get five or so years without a problem. I only snapped two belts in total, and thats in a ten year period.

Read through this site as there is a lot of information and ideas where to buy these items that you are after, as well as other improvements to better the car.

anyway thats my bits and pieces of info so apologise for the mess.

[gaukik]

thank you very much for your advices....really helps...=D

[GSMnow]

It seems I have struck out on getting fron A-arms for my Lazer ZX. I need a right front arm to drive it again, and I would like a spare pair if I can find them. The original LA-26 part number is coming up as discontinued. I had a number for a graphite arm set but I can't find it now. Does any one have that number? Does anyone lnow if the arms for the ZX-5 can be adapted? They sure look very close, but the pics I have are different scales, so I can't line them up. Thanks for your help,

Gary M.

[welshy40]

It seems I have struck out on getting fron A-arms for my Lazer ZX. I need a right front arm to drive it again, and I would like a spare pair if I can find them. The original LA-26 part number is coming up as discontinued. I had a number for a graphite arm set but I can't find it now. Does any one have that number? Does anyone lnow if the arms for the ZX-5 can be adapted? They sure look very close, but the pics I have are different scales, so I can't line them up. Thanks for your help,

Gary M.

Gary,

I have a new set of Graphite ones, but, and its a big but it cost me £15 GBP so if still interested and are up for paying postage as well to the US let me know. I decided to do a scavenge hunt for you (I hope that doesnt annoy you) and found them, hence why I bought them.

PM me with your address.

Dont waste your time with the ZX5 wishbones, as it causes other problems if you do manage to make them fit.

[GSMnow]

Is that all four arms or just the front? Whjat is the exchange rate now?

What is the issues with ZX5 arms? Are they a different length fron pin to pin? are the shock mounts in the wrong place?

I'll PM you later, I am heading out the door.

[pUs]

Hm.. quite a cool chassis plate there. Never seen it before. =)

welshy, I see you're still campaigning heavily against that MK2 front shock tower... I really have no idea how any of you managed to break it, now seriously. I used that shock tower for 1 full outdoor season + 1/2 a season indoors and I neither broke the tower or the front gearbox moulding at any time.

Anyway, I actually had a question as well.. just forgot what it was. Oh well. :)

[welshy40]

Hm.. quite a cool chassis plate there. Never seen it before. =)

welshy, I see you're still campaigning heavily against that MK2 front shock tower... I really have no idea how any of you managed to break it, now seriously. I used that shock tower for 1 full outdoor season + 1/2 a season indoors and I neither broke the tower or the front gearbox moulding at any time.

Anyway, I actually had a question as well.. just forgot what it was. Oh well. :)

It looks like its the alloy one that was sold at one time, they bend big time and ruin the gearbox casing. If its glass fibre then its ok, but id recommend doubling the thickness as the casings are rare now.

I broke all but the half circular one that I had on my car, and that could withstand serious punishment.

I drove my car at ridiculous speed all the time so one mistake and write off, so thats why I did a major revamp on the car so if you did decide to put a 10 double in on a gear ratio fit for a 17 double motor then it could handle it and not do any damage to your bank account if you had a head on with a wall or a YZ10 (I did both and got two scratches).

I have to admit tho that this car has been so much fun to drive, no other make has given me so much pleasure driving, its always an adventure, and better when people state how old and rubbish the car is and funnier when at the end of the day you blow then into the back ground. No other manufacturer can do this.

Oh yeah guess what I got today. The very first Kamtec Lazer ZXS shell. Its without lines, but I do believe we are onto a winner with this company, yes he has taken a while (mainly due to his busy schedule at work) but his workmanship is second to non. He is an artist in his own right.

I will post pics later on today of the shell, its still a work in progress but now we are getting very close to the finished article.

[welshy40]

Is that all four arms or just the front? Whjat is the exchange rate now?

What is the issues with ZX5 arms? Are they a different length fron pin to pin? are the shock mounts in the wrong place?

I'll PM you later, I am heading out the door.

Thats front and back, I have had only one set since 89 (I broke one on my very first event in 88, and since then never replaced any and shows how good the build quality of these items are.) They are the expensive ones, and I got them for the shop price and that came to £15 pounds GBP.

I know the ZX5 is a different car and the wheelbase will be different, but by all means you could try, I believe some one did but it didnt work very well. I am unable to remember what issues they had. Anyway the offer is there if you still need them, otherwise they will go with my ZXS spares, even tho I will never need to replace my running cars ones.

[welshy40]

Guys,

Take a look at these. Ok the pictures were done on my phone, however you can make it out. This is the first one made and I have to say that its a work of art and he is saying that its not up to his standards, which is unbelievable as its stunning. Ok there are no lines on and doubt if any will be, but it wont be that difficult to do with a good pair of scissors.

Let me know what you think, feedback is needed.

[welshy40]

I am striking out trying to get from A-arms for my Lazer ZX. The part number I have out of an older manual is LA26, is this correct? Anyone able to get them? Is there a newer arm that will fit without too much modification? Can we use the arms from a ZX5?

Actually whilst going through my extensive parts/spares for my Lazer ZXS I found what you are looking for - another part number LA104. Have a look for them and hope you can find them. These are not graphite but great anyway. Hope you get them in the US, if not then you have my offer on the table. Let us know how you do.

[GSMnow]

Thanks, I will check on the LA104 number with Kyosho America.

[welshy40]

Guys,

Finally you can get a repro of the ZXS shell.

I am happy that the original shell I sent came back undamaged, and the shell he made was better, so if you want one get from Kamtec as they are really good.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Kyosho-Lazer-ZX-S-LA122-Bodyshell-Kamtec-repro_W0QQitemZ310041558106QQihZ021QQcategoryZ2565 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp16 38Q2em118Q2el1247

[Karadjas]

Hey guys...

I have to thin the herd a bit, do you think there's buying interest in Lazers?

I'm thinking about selling it all in one go, the hopped up ZX-R as a roller, original box full of ZX-R and ZX-RR parts including 3-4 (can't remember) new bumpers, extra kamtec optima body and some random cheap wheels and tyres over the summer when I'll be back home with my r/cs. Would it be worth it?

[welshy40]

Hey guys...

I have to thin the herd a bit, do you think there's buying interest in Lazers?

I'm thinking about selling it all in one go, the hopped up ZX-R as a roller, original box full of ZX-R and ZX-RR parts including 3-4 (can't remember) new bumpers, extra kamtec optima body and some random cheap wheels and tyres over the summer when I'll be back home with my r/cs. Would it be worth it?

Would you do a one off sale for the bumpers? My very good friend Tom is a fanatic on bumpers and needs a couple for his Lazers (his cars will then be complete.)

[Karadjas]

Well, sure... but I'm in London for another month and my stuff is in Cyprus.

I looked into my photobucket album and I have 2 NIP and 2 new but out of the bags.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1252.jpg

Do you think that when I go back to Cyprus I can send you a list of what I have and you can give me a rough estimate of a fair price?

[gaukik]

Well, sure... but I'm in London for another month and my stuff is in Cyprus.

I looked into my photobucket album and I have 2 NIP and 2 new but out of the bags.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1252.jpg

Do you think that when I go back to Cyprus I can send you a list of what I have and you can give me a rough estimate of a fair price?


oh, my dear....I'm interested in getting one bumper as well. Can you pls let me know if u'd like to sell it...=) thx

[Karadjas]

Like I said, I'd like to sell everything, I don't mind if it'll be all in one go or split up, but it'll be a month before I can do so. Then I will probably post in the for sale forum so that you guys will have the chance to get whatever you want from the parts lot.

I'd like to find a way to get fair pricing on my stuff though, so that neither I nor any buyers get ripped off.

[hardrider]

Planning to run my ZXS for a local race.
Need some help with gearing as I've been into TCs for a quite a while now.
What FDR do you gurus suggest for a Tekin sensorless 4800kv or 5800kv motor?

[welshy40]

Planning to run my ZXS for a local race.
Need some help with gearing as I've been into TCs for a quite a while now.
What FDR do you gurus suggest for a Tekin sensorless 4800kv or 5800kv motor?

Mmm i ran a 5700 Mamba Max with a 20 tooth pinion with an 87 spur. May be helpful. I did run a 4.5 on a 19 but was a bit overgeared. I decided that brushed worked better. I am using a 12 single brushed with a 19 / 20 tooth.

How long you had the ZXS for?? Do you have any spare rear belts??

Oh yes, if you havent run it for a while I would be careful as the rear shock mount holder breaks (its designed weak) very easily and you wont find spares easily.

[welshy40]

Well, sure... but I'm in London for another month and my stuff is in Cyprus.

I looked into my photobucket album and I have 2 NIP and 2 new but out of the bags.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1252.jpg

Do you think that when I go back to Cyprus I can send you a list of what I have and you can give me a rough estimate of a fair price?

Sounds good to me, Tom will be interested in a couple of bumpers. Thanks.

[hardrider]

Mmm i ran a 5700 Mamba Max with a 20 tooth pinion with an 87 spur. May be helpful. I did run a 4.5 on a 19 but was a bit overgeared. I decided that brushed worked better. I am using a 12 single brushed with a 19 / 20 tooth.

How long you had the ZXS for?? Do you have any spare rear belts??

Oh yes, if you havent run it for a while I would be careful as the rear shock mount holder breaks (its designed weak) very easily and you wont find spares easily.

Hi Welshy,

Thanks for the tips. I will try a 20/87 and adjust accordingly.
I prefer the feeling of a brused motor but I don't have any of those left haha

I've had my ZXS for a while now. Been sitting pretty on the shelf.
I have 1 or 2 rear belts for my ZXR. Are they the same as the ZXS?
I will take a good look at the rear shock mount holder!
Thanks for the tips!

[welshy40]

Hi Welshy,

Thanks for the tips. I will try a 20/87 and adjust accordingly.
I prefer the feeling of a brused motor but I don't have any of those left haha

I've had my ZXS for a while now. Been sitting pretty on the shelf.
I have 1 or 2 rear belts for my ZXR. Are they the same as the ZXS?
I will take a good look at the rear shock mount holder!
Thanks for the tips!


ZXR belts dont work or fit. The ZXS belts are smaller.

The ZXS doesnt like it when you land on the back end from jumps, and as the rear brace has gaps in between the screws there is nothing to support it. I luckily have someone here who is making an alloy one for me as the carbon fibre will handle the forces involved.

Spares tho are well hard to get, and the front gear box sides split, and they are hard to find as well.

If you need advice on anything ask, as I havent stopped racing mine, and is rapid compared to the opposition at the moment.

[fabolousRC]

Well, sure... but I'm in London for another month and my stuff is in Cyprus.

I looked into my photobucket album and I have 2 NIP and 2 new but out of the bags.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM1252.jpg

Do you think that when I go back to Cyprus I can send you a list of what I have and you can give me a rough estimate of a fair price?

*drool*:eek:

[Karadjas]

Heh yeah I got lucky on the bumpers :D
welshy40 has dibs on 2 and gaukik has dibs on another 1, the last one will go to whoever replies first after I set up a proper FS thread in the FS forum in 2/3 weeks.

I sure hope there will be as much interest in the rest of my parts heh

[fabolousRC]

Heh yeah I got lucky on the bumpers :D
welshy40 has dibs on 2 and gaukik has dibs on another 1, the last one will go to whoever replies first after I set up a proper FS thread in the FS forum in 2/3 weeks.

I sure hope there will be as much interest in the rest of my parts heh

Do you know how long I had been looking for those bumpers? You can click on my name and I'm sure I know I had at least one thread looking for it :teacher:

[Karadjas]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=247964

Who's representing? :D

[isobarik]

Heh yeah I got lucky on the bumpers :D
welshy40 has dibs on 2 and gaukik has dibs on another 1, the last one will go to whoever replies first after I set up a proper FS thread in the FS forum in 2/3 weeks.

I sure hope there will be as much interest in the rest of my parts heh

And i can take the last bumper. How much ???

mvh Isobarik :cool:

[Karadjas]

to be fair, fabolous said he's been looking for one first

[fabolousRC]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=247964

Who's representing? :D

Hmmm...I might be open for that.

I have a fully running Tamiya Bigwig, a ZX-Sport that needs a bumper and an unbuild ZXR Mk.1 to boot :D

[fabolousRC]

to be fair, fabolous said he's been looking for one first

I am if it is still available.

I did not intentionally trying to stall you from selling any and I have the money. It's just I was busy with other things than the hobby at the moment :(

[KIM HYUN JIN]

Guys,

Take a look at these. Ok the pictures were done on my phone, however you can make it out. This is the first one made and I have to say that its a work of art and he is saying that its not up to his standards, which is unbelievable as its stunning. Ok there are no lines on and doubt if any will be, but it wont be that difficult to do with a good pair of scissors.

Let me know what you think, feedback is needed.

It looks great in shape, clearence, and strong. but looks somewhat thicker than genunine body.

It is very execellent experience to have a old body that came in original shape.

I have a repro body of turbo optima mid special...

I am satisfied with that body

I hope you will like to be with your new clear excellent body!!

[KIM HYUN JIN]

http://blog.naver.com/super10/90032206459

MY ZX-R has full bearings
carbon shock towers
rear universal drive shaft by mip cvd
ultima old rear whees and tire.
belt tenshioner.
metal c-hub
front metal suspension hub for wide span arms.

thaks for looking.

[tomstacey]

Nice!

Do you have any more pictures?

[Karadjas]

Sorry for the delay on the bumpers guys, I will let everyone know when I'll be able to start taking payment and sending things out.

[Hempo]

Hi guys, just bought a ZXR last saturday (nice upgrade from my old Alpha!) and i'm wondering where could i get hold of the large front belt? My local hobbyshop told me that it's discontinued..

I found a belt over at www.benracing.com, is it the right one?

Cheers

[welshy40]

Give me the part number and I will tell you if its the correct one.

Hi guys, just bought a ZXR last saturday (nice upgrade from my old Alpha!) and i'm wondering where could i get hold of the large front belt? My local hobbyshop told me that it's discontinued..

I found a belt over at www.benracing.com, is it the right one?

Cheers

[Hempo]

Give me the part number and I will tell you if its the correct one.

The part number is LA13

[welshy40]

La12 is the rear belt (no more left)
La13 is the front belt

LA11 is going to be hard to find as well, even I cant find any and the last one I bought was the last in New Zealand.

Anyway good hunting.

[Hempo]

Thanks!

Funny though.. my local hobbyshop still got one, maybe two of the La12 rear belt on the shelf :P And told me that they still can get hold of a couple..

Now i now what to order when the replacementparts for my Novak SS5800 system arrives!

[nobba]

Hi guys.

This is my first post and I if possible I need your help. First this is my "racing situation":
Me and some friends only do some summer-racing for a couple of weeks each summer during the vacation, on a small self-built track. So , my time spent with the car is limited... We are novices at best!!

I love this car and it is somehow more fun to get this old thing moving than to buy a new one.
So far I have bought new battery packs = Wow, really made a difference. Next I´m buying new tires/wheels (yes, the original set are still on :o)

Now, my questions to you are:

1. With your knowledge on current models, are there more parts apart from the tires that easily can be bought as if to a ZX5 , and then placed on my Alpha? I have seen that the layout has changed altogether, but will for example suspension fit to my Alpha or do I have to order by article-numbers from my old Alpha part list?

2. What would be your advise to change/renew on my Alpha? Like, "changing your suspension will enhance your car enormously".
Or is your advise "Buy a new car, it's impossible to upgrade your Alpha to even near a new one".

Ok, I'm a bit lost here, but glad for any help.

[Boyracer]

Hi all you LAZERheads:wave:

I just have to comment how fantastic this thread is!! Have used a couple of weeks to read all of it;) Sorry for the language, i am from Norway...

I have had my Lazer ZX since it was first released(someone who knows exactly when the first ZX was released?), and i am still racing it(recently startet retro racing). Unbelivable how fast it still is, and now i want to bring out its potencial... Its already a little hoped up, but i will probably come with a lot of questions here in a while. I also have a complete ZX Sport for spareparts, and a big load of other different spares, wheels etc. Obviously Lazer ZX rule:D

Regards Trond Gulbrandsen, Norway

[welshy40]

Welcome to the site mate, I was one of the first to get the Lazer ZX way back in 1988/89 and raced it seriously up till 2002, and did one more event in 2004 and was just as rapid and made the regional A (I was leading the A until my shock broke but great fun).

Get the half circular carbon fibre shock tower on Fibre lyte under Kyosho (and James is the section youll need) as with it on the strength is double than with out. In 8 years using it I never once broke the front end, in fact the YZ10 that I crashed into had a snapped wishbone and they were thick big time!! I would also recomend the blue steering and ZX straight metal or carbon fibre plate as it zeros the bump steer.

Also worth doing the chassie as well and moving the servo inwards as it actually improves the handling thats noticeable. I also did have fibre lyte make the carbon fibre pivot blocks, so worth mentioning them if you after them, as the alloy ones are no longer easy to find.

Any help needed just PM me and I will get back to you. Good racing.

Hi all you LAZERheads:wave:

I just have to comment how fantastic this thread is!! Have used a couple of weeks to read all of it;) Sorry for the language, i am from Norway...

I have had my Lazer ZX since it was first released(someone who knows exactly when the first ZX was released?), and i am still racing it(recently startet retro racing). Unbelivable how fast it still is, and now i want to bring out its potencial... Its already a little hoped up, but i will probably come with a lot of questions here in a while. I also have a complete ZX Sport for spareparts, and a big load of other different spares, wheels etc. Obviously Lazer ZX rule:D

Regards Trond Gulbrandsen, Norway

[nobba]

Does anyone have an answer for me on these questions? The suspension is a problem for me since one of the back-suspensions are dead (the plate filtering the oil inside the arm is somehow missing). So, is it possible to mount new suspunsions on my old Lazer Alpha?



Hi guys.

This is my first post and I if possible I need your help. First this is my "racing situation":
Me and some friends only do some summer-racing for a couple of weeks each summer during the vacation, on a small self-built track. So , my time spent with the car is limited... We are novices at best!!

I love this car and it is somehow more fun to get this old thing moving than to buy a new one.
So far I have bought new battery packs = Wow, really made a difference. Next I´m buying new tires/wheels (yes, the original set are still on :o)

Now, my questions to you are:

1. With your knowledge on current models, are there more parts apart from the tires that easily can be bought as if to a ZX5 , and then placed on my Alpha? I have seen that the layout has changed altogether, but will for example suspension fit to my Alpha or do I have to order by article-numbers from my old Alpha part list?

2. What would be your advise to change/renew on my Alpha? Like, "changing your suspension will enhance your car enormously".
Or is your advise "Buy a new car, it's impossible to upgrade your Alpha to even near a new one".

Ok, I'm a bit lost here, but glad for any help.

[welshy40]

Hi guys.

This is my first post and I if possible I need your help. First this is my "racing situation":
Me and some friends only do some summer-racing for a couple of weeks each summer during the vacation, on a small self-built track. So , my time spent with the car is limited... We are novices at best!!

I love this car and it is somehow more fun to get this old thing moving than to buy a new one.
So far I have bought new battery packs = Wow, really made a difference. Next I´m buying new tires/wheels (yes, the original set are still on :o)

Now, my questions to you are:

1. With your knowledge on current models, are there more parts apart from the tires that easily can be bought as if to a ZX5 , and then placed on my Alpha? I have seen that the layout has changed altogether, but will for example suspension fit to my Alpha or do I have to order by article-numbers from my old Alpha part list?

ZX5 standard kit (not the SP) wheels will fit perfectly. Rear RB-type R hubs fit and make the back end a fraction narrower and improve the rear handling.
Whishbones are still available online. Look at the instruction manual - link is somewhere in the last ten pages and look for the parts in Ben Racing or time tunnels. You can still get the gear boxes as well for the alpha so get buying as youll regret it if you dont buy them now.

2. What would be your advise to change/renew on my Alpha? Like, "changing your suspension will enhance your car enormously".
Or is your advise "Buy a new car, it's impossible to upgrade your Alpha to even near a new one".

shocks - get associated as they are gr8. Get carbon fbre shock towers and steering linkage, if ZX and ZXR items fit then look up www.fibre-lyte.co.uk and look up the James section under Kyosho and get the half circular front tower, a worthy investment as in ten years of racing with one I never broke a gear box casing or shock mount and I wasnt going slow. The steering linkage is on there also and rear shock towers. Also worth getting the rear roll bar just in case it helps your driving style.

Also get rid of all the slop, using the thin motor washers on the hubs front and rear (also get front hubs that are at least 7 degrees as this improves steering) and use a shock red or blue seal on the wishbone poles, preferably on the rear at the rear and the front at the front.

Ok, I'm a bit lost here, but glad for any help.

Does that make sense?

[fabolousRC]

But today, I am Tamiya guy...:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v356/r35553h/IMG00377.jpg
Freshly built DB01 Tamiya Durga.

[welshy40]

well I bought a tamiya 501x and am now getting rid of it - its rubbish!! Its not even close to the way the Lazer goes. The lazer is free running, the tamiya is not free running. The Lazer is agressive and a thrill to race, the tamiya is well placed and handles well but the drive train lets it down - sorry but I thought the same as you until I raced one seriously.

[Boyracer]

I`ve got some questions Welshy40 probably can answer. What happened to the belt covers? My Lazer ZX do have original covers all the way, but the ZX Sport i bought used does not have any cover`s. I also see that all the cars in this thread has open belts, most even have open spur gear as well:eek: Is the drivetrain resistant against damage without these protective covers? I am offcourse talking about outdoor track use;) And only 1 spare spurgear mounted on my complete ZX Sport...

What about the differentials, are the gear diffs as good as ball diffs? And can you get ball diffs for an old Lazer? I could not find motor pinion gears for older Kyoshos, but it has the same pitch that some Tamiyas have, dont they(have bought some, but not tried yet)??

I`m going to put some cash in my old racer classic to test the potencial in the ZX. Going to buy full Fibre Lyte James I set up i think. I would be glad if you could tell my specificcaly wich Carbon parts i should order for my ZX, does all of them fit without mods? I also need a new bodyshell/ving/undertray(or maybe 2 different ones). The first bodyshell, and the ZX Sport shell are both ugly. I`ve seen at least two different bodys in this thread that looks nice, but do they fit ok and are they in stock anywhere(dont remember what models)? Does anyone have pictures to compare? I need the blue steering components as well. I also just ordered Novak GTB 4,5 T BL system and Lipo 3200 batteries and Spektrum DX3 with new servo and micro reciever. Will the Lazer be able to handle this much power? My ZX is already in mint more or less original condition, but i also see the opportunity to swap the FRP chassis and Carbon shock towers over to my ZX Sport and restore even this one for anyday use. The ZX will be for retro races, special ocations and shining at my shelf:cool:

[fabolousRC]

AFAIK, Lazer ZX-R and ZX Sport do not have belt covers plus it could handle LOTS of power. I remember them team drivers using motors less than 10T on the worlds!

[Freeride]

Hi everyone!

I just got a Lazer ZX, in great as can be condition for its age. It is however missing the under cowl and the front bumber. Also found out that one of the front arms is cracked on the hinge pin area. I however found a built but unused ZX Sport! I'll build the ZX and use the Sport for parts. Can anyone confirm that the parts of these two are interchangable?

The ZX cost me around $60, it came with a Novak T4 and 13 turn checkpoint motor. Both period correct electronics :)

The Sport set me back for $50. Did I do well with the prices? :)

Below are pics of the ZX and Sport. They're how I got them still. The owner put some masking tape on the bottom for protection of the ZX.

I'm a bit into the vintage stuff lately...also working on an RC10 Graphite. I look forward to the day I tow these two buggies to the local track and racing them against newer models in 2wd and 4wd!



Thanks!

[Freeride]

If I use a lipo pack in my ZX, I assume that the balance/ weight distribution will be off due to the lighter weight of the batt or will it run fine? Will I need to add weights? Thanks!

[fabolousRC]

If I use a lipo pack in my ZX, I assume that the balance/ weight distribution will be off due to the lighter weight of the batt or will it run fine? Will I need to add weights? Thanks!

Yes, you will need weights not only to bring your minimum up but also to balance out the car better. Lipo is about less than half the weight of the Nimh.

[welshy40]

I`ve got some questions Welshy40 probably can answer. What happened to the belt covers? My Lazer ZX do have original covers all the way, but the ZX Sport i bought used does not have any cover`s. I also see that all the cars in this thread has open belts, most even have open spur gear as well:eek: Is the drivetrain resistant against damage without these protective covers? I am offcourse talking about outdoor track use;) And only 1 spare spurgear mounted on my complete ZX Sport...

OK well the original 1988/89 ZX had covers for the belts, and the team felt that the car was more efficient without, so it became noin existent in the later models.

In all the years of racing (over 10) with this car I have only gone through two rear belts and one front belt. This is in rain (2 inches worth of water on the track) and dust, clay, grit and grass, and sand. The car didnt really have any problems, just as long as the shell was placed on correctly. Also the gear cover for the spur gear is a requirement and would advise not to race one without it.

What about the differentials, are the gear diffs as good as ball diffs? And can you get ball diffs for an old Lazer? I could not find motor pinion gears for older Kyoshos, but it has the same pitch that some Tamiyas have, dont they(have bought some, but not tried yet)??

Gear diffs are great, better on carpet in my opinion, and I used them up to 2002 on carpet. Out doors I rekon ball diffs have the edge.Pinions are 48dp pitch, and get pinions 18 up wards.

I`m going to put some cash in my old racer classic to test the potencial in the ZX. Going to buy full Fibre Lyte James I set up i think. I would be glad if you could tell my specificcaly wich Carbon parts i should order for my ZX, does all of them fit without mods?

The flat steering plate, the shock tower front thats half circular as this strengthens the front end a bit more, and the rear shock mount. The chassis is for a Mk1 Lazer, as I preffered it better than the Mk2, and also the ZXS shell and Optima Mid LWB shell fits perfectly from www.kamtec.co.uk. Pics are on this site, with a ZXS and my car as well. The top deck, its up to you, either the MK1 top deck or the newer one I designed, but down to your preference.

I also need a new bodyshell/ving/undertray(or maybe 2 different ones). The first bodyshell, and the ZX Sport shell are both ugly. I`ve seen at least two different bodys in this thread that looks nice, but do they fit ok and are they in stock anywhere(dont remember what models)? Does anyone have pictures to compare? I need the blue steering components as well. I also just ordered Novak GTB 4,5 T BL system and Lipo 3200 batteries and Spektrum DX3 with new servo and micro reciever. Will the Lazer be able to handle this much power? My ZX is already in mint more or less original condition, but i also see the opportunity to swap the FRP chassis and Carbon shock towers over to my ZX Sport and restore even this one for anyday use. The ZX will be for retro races, special ocations and shining at my shelf:cool:

You crack me up. This car can handle this power easily, however I think a 5.0 or 5.5 would be a better bet for you. The 4.5 is a tad difficult to get the ratio correct and can be tempremental, and I have had to stop using and have ordered a 5.0, a 5.5 and 6.5

The car can handle power big time, i used a worked on race prepared 10 double at the worlds warm ups with a 23 pinion which is about 4 teeth higher than the recommended ratio. It was fast and still is.

[welshy40]

Parts are interchangeable for the whole range of Lazer series with exception of the new ZX-5 and the ZXS.

i would serieously advise ordering shock towers for this from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk as the metal ones bend and then you will have no gear boxes as they are non existant anywhere in the world. spend some money on it and make it stronger than it is. Also www.kamtec.co.uk do shells for the ultimat lwb or the lazer zxs and you may be lucky and get the lazer zx shell and undertray. good luck and ask them.

Hi everyone!

I just got a Lazer ZX, in great as can be condition for its age. It is however missing the under cowl and the front bumber. Also found out that one of the front arms is cracked on the hinge pin area. I however found a built but unused ZX Sport! I'll build the ZX and use the Sport for parts. Can anyone confirm that the parts of these two are interchangable?

The ZX cost me around $60, it came with a Novak T4 and 13 turn checkpoint motor. Both period correct electronics :)

The Sport set me back for $50. Did I do well with the prices? :)

Below are pics of the ZX and Sport. They're how I got them still. The owner put some masking tape on the bottom for protection of the ZX.

I'm a bit into the vintage stuff lately...also working on an RC10 Graphite. I look forward to the day I tow these two buggies to the local track and racing them against newer models in 2wd and 4wd!



Thanks!

[Boyracer]

Thanks welshy40!

I have now sent emails to both Fibre lyte and kamtec :D

I have tried to search in this thread, and also at Towerhobbies after this blue steering set. I cant find it! Is this still in store somewhere, link??

And you didnt answer me about the Tamiya pinion gears i have bought, do they have the same pitch? As far as i know the early Lazers did not have "normal" 48 pitch??

I will put out some pictures of the cars when i get the time for it:)

[Freeride]

Parts are interchangeable for the whole range of Lazer series with exception of the new ZX-5 and the ZXS.

i would serieously advise ordering shock towers for this from www.fibre-lyte.co.uk as the metal ones bend and then you will have no gear boxes as they are non existant anywhere in the world. spend some money on it and make it stronger than it is. Also www.kamtec.co.uk do shells for the ultimat lwb or the lazer zxs and you may be lucky and get the lazer zx shell and undertray. good luck and ask them.

Thanks Welshy! Using the CF towers over the aluminum - is it so that the CF towers, on impact, will break instead of the gear boxes?

[welshy40]

I am unsure about Tamiyas size for the pinions, ask where you got them from, but they need to be 48dp.

The blue steering part is listed, there is a page where I actually listed all of my ZXR stuff, and its on that list, so best to browse through this site till you see it. When you do post it again. Sorry I am not much help, and if I had the time I would browse myself. A lot of the items may still be available though so may be worth copying all of the list on here.


Thanks welshy40!

I have now sent emails to both Fibre lyte and kamtec :D

I have tried to search in this thread, and also at Towerhobbies after this blue steering set. I cant find it! Is this still in store somewhere, link??

And you didnt answer me about the Tamiya pinion gears i have bought, do they have the same pitch? As far as i know the early Lazers did not have "normal" 48 pitch??

I will put out some pictures of the cars when i get the time for it:)

[welshy40]

Aluminium bends big time and when things bend the plastic cracks and breaks as well. There are no gera boxes for the front, and havent been any for sale since 2000. I have tried long and hard to find them. Any way the fibrelyte half circular front shock tower does the job and as it one whole unit and doesnt have two separate shock sides holders it wont break as easily, well I never managed to break one and I wasnt going slow when I raced it.

I found the shock tower design made a big improvement on saving the fron gear box casing, so a worthy investment, plus its easier to carry after you have raced it as it can be used as a handle.

Thanks Welshy! Using the CF towers over the aluminum - is it so that the CF towers, on impact, will break instead of the gear boxes?

[Freeride]

Aluminium bends big time and when things bend the plastic cracks and breaks as well. There are no gera boxes for the front, and havent been any for sale since 2000. I have tried long and hard to find them. Any way the fibrelyte half circular front shock tower does the job and as it one whole unit and doesnt have two separate shock sides holders it wont break as easily, well I never managed to break one and I wasnt going slow when I raced it.

I found the shock tower design made a big improvement on saving the fron gear box casing, so a worthy investment, plus its easier to carry after you have raced it as it can be used as a handle.

Thanks again Welshy!

Well, I saw first hand what you mean. I was tearing up the front end of my ZX last night for a rebuild, and lo and behold, the front gearbox was cracked. I lay the aluminum shock tower on glass and it was bent right where the crack was. :mad:

It's a good thing I have the new built ZX Sport for parts, but then, I no longer have a spare gear box. I am going to try and order that fiberlyte shock tower.

Guys, I just want you opinion, should I tear up the Sport to restore the ZX or keep it new built? The Sport is in un-used condition, with box and manuals and I am a bit iffy on tearing it up as it might be a collectible soon. :D

[Boyracer]

I am unsure about Tamiyas size for the pinions, ask where you got them from, but they need to be 48dp.

The blue steering part is listed, there is a page where I actually listed all of my ZXR stuff, and its on that list, so best to browse through this site till you see it. When you do post it again. Sorry I am not much help, and if I had the time I would browse myself. A lot of the items may still be available though so may be worth copying all of the list on here.

I got the tip about Tamiya pinions from a experienced local racer, but it doesn`t feel 100% right when i move it on the spur gear. And i am afraid to try and ruin the spur gear:eek: The stores in Oslo doesn`t even know what Lazer 1st generation looks like, not even the dedicated Kyosho store:roll2:


When it comes to the blue steering: IF SOMEWHONE SEES THIS LIST IN THE THREAD, PLEASE COPY FORWARD!!!!!!!!:wave: PLEASE What model was the steering from again??? The search possabilities at this site sucks actually.....

I have now ordered complete carbon set from Fibre-Lyte:D
I am dealing for two new ZX-S bodies as well, think i will get W.E.D. to paint them..

[welshy40]

If you can glue the front gear box then do it and save you from stripping the other car.

Thanks again Welshy!

Well, I saw first hand what you mean. I was tearing up the front end of my ZX last night for a rebuild, and lo and behold, the front gearbox was cracked. I lay the aluminum shock tower on glass and it was bent right where the crack was. :mad:

It's a good thing I have the new built ZX Sport for parts, but then, I no longer have a spare gear box. I am going to try and order that fiberlyte shock tower.

Guys, I just want you opinion, should I tear up the Sport to restore the ZX or keep it new built? The Sport is in un-used condition, with box and manuals and I am a bit iffy on tearing it up as it might be a collectible soon. :D

[welshy40]

Is your buggy an original first edition ZX? If so then its a .6 spur gear, however if it isnt then its a 48dp spur.

Post pictures so I can help you out. Spares for these are so hard to find, so dont ruin it.

Good for you on the fibrelyte parts and good on you for going to get the zxs shell (it comes with an undertray) but dont follow the lines for the gear cover as youll have to figure it out for yourself

I got the tip about Tamiya pinions from a experienced local racer, but it doesn`t feel 100% right when i move it on the spur gear. And i am afraid to try and ruin the spur gear:eek: The stores in Oslo doesn`t even know what Lazer 1st generation looks like, not even the dedicated Kyosho store:roll2:


When it comes to the blue steering: IF SOMEWHONE SEES THIS LIST IN THE THREAD, PLEASE COPY FORWARD!!!!!!!!:wave: PLEASE What model was the steering from again??? The search possabilities at this site sucks actually.....

I have now ordered complete carbon set from Fibre-Lyte:D
I am dealing for two new ZX-S bodies as well, think i will get W.E.D. to paint them..

[welshy40]

See below

[welshy40]

OK finally I found this on page 27 or so. Blue steering is below.

I showed my buggy to my Greek friend (who by the way was pictured by Oople at the euros this year. The drive train is more free than the standard cars, and we got a good 8 mins out of a pack of cells so was very impressed. He also liked my shock mounts and top deck designs, but he has a few good ideas himself so you may be getting feed back from someone else soon. He thought my overall setup before he saw the car was too soft, but after seeing it go I have changed his mind.

All the info I have posted has improved the car to a higher level than the newer cars out now so I would try and do what I have done, and boy will you notice the difference.

1. I put the Kyosho Rear V TF4 rear hubs on (lowest holes only on the hubs and outer on the top from Tower Hobbies)

2. Associated balljoints all round

3. ZX steering brace (the straight one)

4. ***Kyosho Special Uni-Crank SPGP/Pure Ten - the blue steering parts I listed earlier to stop bump steer available from Tower hobbies and possibly Ben Racing and possibly Timetunnels***

5. 7 degree front castor blocks using the inner hole to move the block further out to widen the front

6. W5063 front Universal driveshafts (the 3mm longer version from Tower Hobbies) which work with the castor block

7. Carbon fibre L brace for the gearbox

8. Carbon fibre servo mount for the servo

9. Associated screw set for the ZX/ZXR, and ball joint nuts

10. Carbon Fibre front and rear shock towers, I redesigned - the latest ones I have listed as the cars handling improves with them.

11. The new carbon fibre top deck I designed.

12. The Kyosho Hyper clutch (the same item in the ZX-S) which improves the performance, but you have to throw away the solid bushing which goes on the layshaft and swap it with a thinner bearing, as this pushes the two layshaft gears close together and stops the friction caused by the layshaft moving left and right on the two big bearings - it should not move at all.

13. Get the Associated B2 servo mounts, and put on the Lazer. This moves the servo further in the chassis so you will have to have two silver poles to hold the top deck up in the middle of the chassis, but the one hole not to be used on the top deck is the outer one by the servo, as the servo is sitting over the hole - so you use the middle one instead. There is no diiference in flex, and this improves the weight distribution by moving the servo as close to the belt as possible. You will need a Kimbrough Large servo saver (this is a worthy buy especially in a smash)

14. The chassis I designed. It fits the ZX-S shell and with the batteries closer to the centre and further forwards the car is more stable and balanced on all surfaces.

15. The rear wishbone holder (pivot holder). On the instruction manual for the Lazer its supposed to be with the angled sections pointing up - thats wrong, the angled section where the wishbone pivot poles go need to be facing towards the ground so angled downwards. The one by the motor the instruction manual is correct. The one behind the front gearbox is correct. The front you need the item to be in the highes two holes on the front gearbox so the wishbones have the maximum kick up. Also the pivot holder should be pointing downwards like the rear one.

16. The position for the tie rods on the shock towers is on a few pages back where I posted pics of the front and rear shock towers that make the car better. I left the ball joints on so you guys could copy. It improves the car in the holes I have used. Try it yourself to see what I mean.

17. Camber 1 degree all round, however you can do 2 if you feel 1 is not enough. I use 1 degree, but have found 2 to work on certain tracks better.

18. Shocks - I use Traxxas TRX1 as they are the best ever made, however Associated are the next best. With the Associated I take out all washers and put in three mip seals and click in. This smoothes out the shocks and makes it better. Schumacher and Associated springs seem to be the best for this car, I have tried all and found them the best.

19. The shocks need 2mm of pack on each shock.

You can order the carbon fibre bits without the countersunk holes, so specify that you dont want them countersunk otherwise they might turn up with countersunk holes for the associated crews.

I hope this helps.

[fabolousRC]

Sidenote: Since Kyosho is no longer carried by Towerhobbies, all the US orders can be made through www.kyoshoamerica.com :teacher:

[Boyracer]

Thanks, again, and again, and again:)

I found Ben Racing, and have sent them an e-mail..

Yes i do have the very first Lazer ZX with .6 pitc as far as i know!! That means 0,6 teeth pr something inch or something? The Tamiya pinions i bought says 0,6 at the package. They still use it in some cars i believe. Will these fit?

[welshy40]

Do yourself a favour and take the spur out, or get some .6 pinions (possibly tamiya will work if it says that) but if the cars sounds rough its probably down to being undergeared as thats what happens with me, so go up a pinion or two until it sounds smooth and thats probably the ratio that the car will run well with (it sounds daft but thats how I do it, and it works). Spend a bit on a hyperclutch (its £55, so roughly 100 bucks) but with this you can change the spur for a kimbrough 98 or 97 (whichever one it is or a schumacher 98 in 48dp as the hyperclutch is a screw on spur clipper clutch like the original RC10

Hope that helps you out a bit

Thanks, again, and again, and again:)

I found Ben Racing, and have sent them an e-mail..

Yes i do have the very first Lazer ZX with .6 pitc as far as i know!! That means 0,6 teeth pr something inch or something? The Tamiya pinions i bought says 0,6 at the package. They still use it in some cars i believe. Will these fit?

[welshy40]

Page 21 has ratios for the point six spur gear on the ZX

[Boyracer]

Every Lazerhead should push this link.

(The text is quoted from a pm to welshy40/James Instone)
It is a awesome feeling to race the same car almost 20 years later, and it still rocks like hell. Many guys got big eyes when i drove it at the first retrorace i attended:). And the Tamiya guys soon understood they would have small chances to take the Lazer anyhow:) Take a look at this site, its from the first official retrorace in Norway 2 months ago June 2008. It was arranged paralell with the Norwegian 1:10 OR championship. http://www.ymr.no/2NMR08.htm You see many pictures of me, first with the Losi JRxPRO and then the Lazer. Won both classes of course:cool: Great fun! The other guys actually had no chance at all. The guy you see with the very hoped up Hotshot(actually worked very well) is one of the best drivers in Norway(ok, so I was also a promising A driver once upon time), he had to kiss my feet afterwards... In the text under the picture without body its described as "Poisoness" of the guy that made the rapport.

Lazer ZX still rules:winner:

[Freeride]

Hello again! Well, after combining the Lazer ZX and the Lazer Sport I got, here she is! I'd say a fully hopped up XZ Sport?! :D The wing is vintage Parma.

I installed an old Tekin ESC and an old Checkpoint 13 Double on it. I was bench testing last night with a 7.4v 4800 mah lipo pack and it was revving like hell due to the voltage. Then.. pop! The motor blew! hahahahaha!

Excuse the large pic.:)

Thanks!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/manila-racers/360082d1218160371-vintage-rc-club-lazerzx.jpg

[welshy40]

Nice, the site is great and your Lazer zx looks like new. Great!! Here is a few pics of my shells which I used on my RC10 that then progressed onto my ZXS shell. Also check out pages on 27, 30 and 34 as my buggies pics are there for you to view and scrutinise. Hope you like.

[Freeride]

Thanks welshy! It is really fresh and looks new. I don't want to ruin it but I have to run the thing!!!! It begging to be raced!

And nice dragon design! I also have an RC10 Graphite on the restoration table.

[Boyracer]

Was this comment for me or for Freeride?:o:)

Btw, is the last picture ZX-S or Optima Mid Turbo Custom LBW? Fantastic look, really nice!

Nice, the site is great and your Lazer zx looks like new. Great!! Here is a few pics of my shells which I used on my RC10 that then progressed onto my ZXS shell. Also check out pages on 27, 30 and 34 as my buggies pics are there for you to view and scrutinise. Hope you like.

[jwiersma]

Do yourself a favour and take the spur out, or get some .6 pinions (possibly tamiya will work if it says that) but if the cars sounds rough its probably down to being undergeared as thats what happens with me, so go up a pinion or two until it sounds smooth and thats probably the ratio that the car will run well with (it sounds daft but thats how I do it, and it works). Spend a bit on a hyperclutch (its £55, so roughly 100 bucks) but with this you can change the spur for a kimbrough 98 or 97 (whichever one it is or a schumacher 98 in 48dp as the hyperclutch is a screw on spur clipper clutch like the original RC10

Hope that helps you out a bit

Ok this is a beginner question but i can't figure it out. My ZX-5 is really noisy...really rough sounding(and its coming from the gears). What do you mean when you said "go up a pinion or tow"?

J

[welshy40]

I tend to throw the ratio chart out of the window, but thats me. I gear the car and every pinion makes a noise. When you get the car to work so that when you push it down your legs (when its switched off) it should sound smooth and quiet, if it sounds rough and nasty then its undergeared.

I am not any good with the ZX-5 as its a geared drive train, I am only good with the belt systems.


Ok this is a beginner question but i can't figure it out. My ZX-5 is really noisy...really rough sounding(and its coming from the gears). What do you mean when you said "go up a pinion or tow"?

J

[welshy40]

The shell is from a ZXS and is still available thanks to me sending it off to Kamtec and he did his magic and made a mold. Its now available and the shell is thicker than normal so will take a lot of abuse before you will need another. Im gonna buy a few more anyway.

Thanks for the kind words about the paint job, i didnt do it though, a company that has now gone bust did, and they did Mark Pavidis and a few other top named drivers around the world shells. They were fantastic artists.

Was this comment for me or for Freeride?:o:)

Btw, is the last picture ZX-S or Optima Mid Turbo Custom LBW? Fantastic look, really nice!

[welshy40]

The comment was for you.

Was this comment for me or for Freeride?:o:)

Btw, is the last picture ZX-S or Optima Mid Turbo Custom LBW? Fantastic look, really nice!

[Freeride]

Ooops.Sorry about that. haha.

[isobarik]

Well then I am now 1 Turbo mid optima special poorer :( but i gained an lazer zxr :) and an Cat 2000 ec :D .
Where do i get my hands on an hyper clutch ??? and some w 5061 ??

mvh Isobarik :teacher:

[welshy40]

Try Ben racing or Time tunnels, they are the only two places I know of, otherwise try the countries Kyosho Distributor.

Well then I am now 1 Turbo mid optima special poorer :( but i gained an lazer zxr :) and an Cat 2000 ec :D .
Where do i get my hands on an hyper clutch ??? and some w 5061 ??

mvh Isobarik :teacher:

[Freeride]

I ran the lazer last Sunday at the local track. It is very quiet, smooth drive train! It also jumps pretty well, flies level. One thing though on the corners it has a little understeer and pushes. Any suggestion of what I can generally adjust?

Oh I also got a hold of a box for the ZX last night, with a used incomplete chassis inside and some leftover stickers! The parts inside were a top and bottom chassis, 2 under trays (one new!), front and rear belts, belt cover, shock towers, gear diffs, motor plate and the most important parts for me... a bumper, ball diffs and gearboxes! There were also screws and other misc. stuff

[welshy40]

Understeers - well you should try and find the 7 degree front castor block, as it will sort that. I have a 7.5 degree but the 7 degree should be more than adequate if you can find them.

I ran the lazer last Sunday at the local track. It is very quiet, smooth drive train! It also jumps pretty well, flies level. One thing though on the corners it has a little understeer and pushes. Any suggestion of what I can generally adjust?

Oh I also got a hold of a box for the ZX last night, with a used incomplete chassis inside and some leftover stickers! The parts inside were a top and bottom chassis, 2 under trays (one new!), front and rear belts, belt cover, shock towers, gear diffs, motor plate and the most important parts for me... a bumper, ball diffs and gearboxes! There were also screws and other misc. stuff

[fabolousRC]

I couldn't resist buying a Lazer ZX-5 because a US online retailer ran a 15% off for all of us Californians; picked up a Blue and Yellow RTR then ran it the same weekend. Love every minute of it just that the stock servo won't center properly because it is either bind to the left or bind to the right.

At the first heat getting use to it (mind you, I ran everything stock except for spektrum receiver), I got 7th and 5th on second heat. I fixed my Durga's gremlins by the main so I drove that instead for a 4th place finish. Best of all: NO BREAKAGE from either car.

I would like to thank the Lazer ZX-5 for being a team player and worlds best test car for helping me finish higher in the main. lol

Pictures are coming up soon.

PS: Picked up a nice Turbo Optima and an Optima Mid after the race. Two for $160...ain't bad, eh? I'm thinking of running it just for kicks =P.

[welshy40]

I cant believe you bought one - they have gone backwards. Hopefully the next buggy will not be a shaft drive and will be back up to the winning Nationals / Euros an making the world A's again.


I couldn't resist buying a Lazer ZX-5 because a US online retailer ran a 15% off for all of us Californians; picked up a Blue and Yellow RTR then ran it the same weekend. Love every minute of it just that the stock servo won't center properly because it is either bind to the left or bind to the right.

At the first heat getting use to it (mind you, I ran everything stock except for spektrum receiver), I got 7th and 5th on second heat. I fixed my Durga's gremlins by the main so I drove that instead for a 4th place finish. Best of all: NO BREAKAGE from either car.

I would like to thank the Lazer ZX-5 for being a team player and worlds best test car for helping me finish higher in the main. lol

Pictures are coming up soon.

PS: Picked up a nice Turbo Optima and an Optima Mid after the race. Two for $160...ain't bad, eh? I'm thinking of running it just for kicks =P.

[fabolousRC]

I cant believe you bought one - they have gone backwards. Hopefully the next buggy will not be a shaft drive and will be back up to the winning Nationals / Euros an making the world A's again.

Am I a traitor, then? :eek:

Don't worry, the ZX-R will be build next. I'm saving up so I can get the stainless steel screws instead of those soft steel that I had to endure almost 20 years ago :D:D:D

I cannot wait to see the faces of the people I ran over with the old school car hehe

[welshy40]

The screw sets are worth their weight in gold. yup this car still beats the shaft drive hands down. A point I have already proven big time!!.

When this ZXS is up to my standard I will post some pics. It is still beating these new cars with ease. Mods are being made for it and when I am done (as well as my shells) then I am posting pics of the prototype.

[Freeride]

I'd hate to do it but I need to sell my Lazers. If anyone is interested please send me a PM. I have a Complete Lazer ZX, a ZX Sport and an incomplete ZX chassis for spares that will all go together. Just looking at around $250. I am from the Philippines so we will have to consider shipping costs. Thanks.

[fabolousRC]

dang...PI kinda far from US, yea?

Where is the bumper guy? I want my OT93s!!!

[jwiersma]

My Lazer ZX-5 has a hard time responding to the transmitter after about 5 minutes of driving. I changed the ESC and batteries are fully charged...but i have had this problem for weeks now and still i haven;t figured out the problem. What happens is it goes well, and then all of a sudden when i full the throttle it wont budge...then 15 seconds later it starts again ...and then stops....any suggestions?? i'm going crazy trying to figure out the problem!!!

[Freeride]

fabulousRC, yes, its quite a distance. Post by iEMS may be around $50.


Here's a link to the picture of the Lazers if anyone is interested:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/manila-racers/366866d1220238037-buy-sell-thread-19feb08-rc-related-stuffs-only-lazerzxa.jpg

[hardrider]

My Lazer ZX-5 has a hard time responding to the transmitter after about 5 minutes of driving. I changed the ESC and batteries are fully charged...but i have had this problem for weeks now and still i haven;t figured out the problem. What happens is it goes well, and then all of a sudden when i full the throttle it wont budge...then 15 seconds later it starts again ...and then stops....any suggestions?? i'm going crazy trying to figure out the problem!!!

Tricky...
If you're running a brushed motor, might wanna check the lenght of the brushes.
That's the only thing I can think of since esc is new and batteires are fresh.
It's not a thermal shutdown right?

[fabolousRC]

fabulousRC, yes, its quite a distance. Post by iEMS may be around $50.


Here's a link to the picture of the Lazers if anyone is interested:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachments/manila-racers/366866d1220238037-buy-sell-thread-19feb08-rc-related-stuffs-only-lazerzxa.jpg

Wow *drool*

I want to but I have so many already :(

I finally meet a machinist at my local track so I'm going to give him my bumper for him to duplicate.

[RespirologyRC]

So guys i was thinking about buying one of these Kyosho Lazors but don't know if i should after reaading the last few threads. Are there breakage problems with them? I only use my RC's for racing and this of course will be treated no differently; any recommendations???

[isobarik]

Just a thought but when mark pavidis went to the world champion chip with his ZX5 dont you guys think that if he had said that his chanses would increase of winning if he had the zxr car insted of the zx5 dont you think that kyosho have made one for him ???


mvh Isobarik :teacher:

[welshy40]

No Kyosho have the say and not the driver. The driver is there to better the product and get some results and advertise the buggy.

[isobarik]

yeah may be so at som point but in the end what counts is winning and kyosho dont giva rats as about how the buggy looks just it wins. And if so are kyosho designers stupid ?? no i dont and i still think the zxr are a cool buggy but i belive that if you get a really consistent driver like say masami or like wise then in the end it will be beaten by the zx5 .
Because i dont think kyosho spend houres an dollars all does years they where away from the scen on buggy that is less competitiv then the buggy that it was going to replace.

and now you will go about the xx4 and the xxx4 yeah but thats another ballgame regarding the big ball diff´s in xxx wich will make it sit to low at the ground.

mvh Isobarik :teacher:

[isobarik]

BTW has the ZX ball diff or gear ???

mvh Isobarik:teacher:

[welshy40]

Well they have a class driver and thats Mark P, and boy is he good!!! but even he is struggling with it and that says a lot. Even Losi Junior who is developing the 4wd has done a few good things but shaft is not really gonna go much further in the development game.

With belts the car can be developed by shed loads of ways and its a free and more efficient. I am currently redesigning my Lazer ZXS and pics will be posted. This car did win the Japanese Nats just after Masami won the worlds, and that was the time when he was almost unstopable, he won four worlds in all varieties of buggies and touring etc. To top him with the prototype zxs is saying that they finally developed a great car, but some idiot midway through the project decided to move to shaft drive and basically the ZX5 chassis is based on a ZXS, but is by no means any where near as good.

Pics will be posted soon and then you can comment, as my car is a prototype and has already got a lot of development parts on that you wont have seen before. The whole rear gearbox is carbon fibre, including the rear shock tower mount. Its strong and faster than a ZXR.

[isobarik]

Well but still thay had it tested on an track that they had driven before with zxr and zxr-r and i dont belive that it still can be slower then its predessor.
maybe its not as good as they wanted it to be compared to other buggies but i still belive it will be faster.

mvh isobarik :teacher:

[fabolousRC]

Well they have a class driver and thats Mark P, and boy is he good!!! but even he is struggling with it and that says a lot. Even Losi Junior who is developing the 4wd has done a few good things but shaft is not really gonna go much further in the development game.

With belts the car can be developed by shed loads of ways and its a free and more efficient. I am currently redesigning my Lazer ZXS and pics will be posted. This car did win the Japanese Nats just after Masami won the worlds, and that was the time when he was almost unstopable, he won four worlds in all varieties of buggies and touring etc. To top him with the prototype zxs is saying that they finally developed a great car, but some idiot midway through the project decided to move to shaft drive and basically the ZX5 chassis is based on a ZXS, but is by no means any where near as good.

Pics will be posted soon and then you can comment, as my car is a prototype and has already got a lot of development parts on that you wont have seen before. The whole rear gearbox is carbon fibre, including the rear shock tower mount. Its strong and faster than a ZXR.

I wonder if the new ZX5 bodies will fit ZXR (I like the Vulcan, I think it looks sexy).

FYI, Stock ZXR are PREBUILT balldiffs (isn't that nice? PREBUILT!) :teacher: