Yoke TC-Special

[AZBUSA]

I wanted to know if there are any tire reference charts out there.
At my track they say to run 24mm sorex 32r, is there any other tires that compare as far as compound? Most of the guys at my track are running either TC3's and Losi, I didn't know if anyone knew any other tires that would hook up better with the yoke chassis....

Thanks, Brad

[ZoomZoom]

I don't have the Special but I have a hopped-up MR4-TC Pro w/ one-ways. I have been racing with TakeOff CS32 up front and CS27 in the rear. The TakeOffs hook up really well. I've also tried the MedialPro Touring IAS in medium compound and they hook up nice too. Especially when the track is dustier due to the treading on the IAS's. Sorex's with HPI Red insert are the spec tire at one of the bigger race series here. I'd equate the performance of the TakeOff tires with the Sorex's.

[AZBUSA]

Hey, thanks for the info..

[Yokomo_King]

it depends on the Temputre i use during hot days or warm yokomo sprints Medium tires and Firm insert ive been meaning to try 36R by Sorex

[a-man1234]

Will TC3 springs fit Yokomo Shocks. Also, does anybody have the spring (soft to stiff) order for Yokomo shocks springs.

Thanks,

A-man1234

[ZoomZoom]

For the MR4, softest to hardest:
Black - 9.63lb/in
White - 9.80lb/in
Blue - 10.30lb/in
Yellow - 10.6lb/in
Green - 12.97lb/in
Orange - 15.80lb/in

The following are more Yok springs but I think they are for the GT4:
FLOU. GREEN - 12.97lb/in
SILVER - 12.93lb/in
FLOU. YELLOW - 13.82lb/in
SILVER - 14.65lb/in
BLUE - 15.65lb/in
DARK GREEN - 16.83lb/in

Kinda confusing with 2 silvers and 2 blues.

[w007yoshi]

Silver is one spring, STAINLESS is another. The silver is a smoky silver while the stainless is a mirror-brass color finish and is the stiffer of the 2

[ZoomZoom]

What about the blues? Is one dark and the other light?

[w007yoshi]

Yeah I forget which one is blue and which is light blue :confused: I think the light blue is for the gt4

[Yokomo_King]

i think the light blue is for the yokomo MR4s and the dark blue is for the GT4

[w007yoshi]

LOL I dont know.... I just got my TC SP a few days ago. I only knew from a site that there were 2 different silver springs :rolleyes:

[roberttatefan]

HEY ALL, ME AND MY YOK JUST WON OKTOBER FAST B MAIN. I won in stock sedan rubber and probobly should of been in the A-main, but hey, what can you do, and my time was a 17 5:04, A-main winner was 17 5:02, shows what a yok and a 13 year old can do!:D :D :D :D :p :p ;)

[Yokomo_King]

try diffrent gearing i run usually 78/29 its fast barry uses 78/30

[w007yoshi]

Should i stick to the 82t stock spur for a small track?

[ZoomZoom]

Originally posted by Yokomo_King
try diffrent gearing i run usually 78/29 its fast barry uses 78/30
What motor are you using?

With my P2K2, my gearing is 25-26T/78T. The RPM on my P2K2 is 30,721. I also cut a slot in the #4499 pos. brush w/ a green spring, and #4500 neg. brush w/ green spring. Nice increase in torque with the cut and it seems to have mre RPM due to the lighter spring. Don't know for sure w/o a dyno. But the punch down low - mid RPM is definitely noticable.

[xxxkat]

Hey yokomo racers just bought a new MR-4 Pro SE,any one with any set up tips for this car,what wt. oil,springs,gearing for stock motor(pk2 pro).I have 2 other touring cars(xxxs,tc-3)Is the yokomo close to these in set up? I bought the car because it was only $100 new in box from a hobby shop(yes he told me he took a huge loss on the car,but wanted it gone,so I could not help myself.)I have had a few yokomo's in the past,they have allways been good cars,so any help you could give me would be appreciated,thanks for any help. :D

[Yokomo_King]

sorry its been awhile since i was here
the motor barry was using was a P2k the orginal not the P2k2
i run my car @ socal Race way its a tight track
i run 50wt all around with dark green springs
Rear shock tower shock mount is on the bottom far out
Front is on the Outside
im using a 78/29 with a P2k
if you have ne question about the Yokomo Mr4

AIM- TheNiceAzn <--- im always on AIM
Yahoo MSG- The_Nice_Azn
Or feel free to e-mail me @ Yokomo_King@yahoo.com

[Yokomo_King]

ZOOM ZOOM try a 27-28 best bet is a 27 pinion you wont loose on accel or top end. 28 would make your motor hot but youll be fast out on the track
Or you could try 81spur with 29 i think not sure

[AZBUSA]

Are you guys running the one way on the tight tracks?
I run on a tight track with the one way but I have to use a drifting style for it to work. If I don't I will not have enough steering.

[AZBUSA]

Here is a couple of links to some good info and setups.

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/set_mr4.htm

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_setup.htm

[w007yoshi]

Heres some tips Ive been told by many and it works for me:
Always run a stiffer rear spring than the front
Use the rear bulkhead camberlink mod
Dont use the rear sway bar, it prevents the car from being twitchy

[Yokomo_King]

well that is true always run a front sway bar
using stiffer springs in the front will give you better rear traction
using a rear sway bar increases steering but the less traction
its better to use a Front and center one-way cuz its helps you in and out of turns. yeah i do use front and center one-way on the tight tracks. Using both one ways increases efficentcy

[xxxkat]

On some of the set up sheets I have been looking at I have noticed for rear shock oil wt. It has #450,Does any one know what wt. oil that is ? Or what wt. oil do you guys run? :confused:

[AZBUSA]

Thats how Yokomo lists their oil..

450=45
400=40
500=50

[ZoomZoom]

Setups, here's what I use -

Gearing - 78 spur, 26-27 pinion with a P2K2.
Dual one-ways.
Bulkhead rear camber link mounting.
-1 deg. camber front and rear.
2 deg. toe-in rear block.
0 deg toe front
7 deg. front castor block
Carpet - 60wt. AE shock oil w/ orange springs up front and green in back. Thick copper-colored front swaybar, no rear swaybar.
Asphalt - 40wt. AE shock oil w/ yellow springs up front and blue in back. Thin silver-colored swaybay up front, no rear swaybar.
Sorex 32R fronts, 28R rears.

I find that using the one-ways with a stock motor and even a 19T spec is very controllable as long as you have the car set up right. You need to make sure your rear end stays planted. Plus, it helps to have a programmable ESC that allows you to adjust maximum brakes. I set mine to 60-80% depending on traction levels (less w/ low bite). And with my stock motor, I set drag-brake to 20-30% and in most cases, I don't even have to apply the brakes. I just have to let off and the drag-brakes slow me down enough to make the turn. I start accelerating even before the apex and the one-way pulls me out strong. I can take corners pretty fast since my setup keeps the rears planted.

[w007yoshi]

I would love to be able to use oneways, but the track I run on is too tight and because of traffic, I use a ball diff and directdrive so I dont punt someone coming into a corner becasue no one else will use them :rolleyes:

[w007yoshi]

Actually I noticed all the setups I find on the internet such as Masami's, Tossolini's, etc, they ALL run a stiffer rear spring i.e. green in front and orange in back. They said that it keeps the car from being too twitchy.

[ZoomZoom]

It's not too twitchy for me. I like a quick steering car. Those guys just don't have the hand-eye coordination like me :D :p .

[wyd]

zoomzoom I guess with all those titles that Masami and Tosillini have that they don't have any hand eye cordination or can't run a twitchy car. Now that is one of the funniest things I have read in awhile.

007Yoshi on alot of tracks if you run a slightly heavier spring on either the front or the rear you will find that you have a little more traction at the end with the heavier springs. I would start practicing and working on gettin the rear end to stick the way you want it. After you have done that then work on the front.

[w007yoshi]

LoL thats how I do in Offroad. I work w/ the rear first, cuz if i cant get on the throttle and be confident with its traction, i dont care what kind of steering my front end will get cuz im screwed :eek: :eek:

[ZoomZoom]

wyd - Who are these Masami and Tosillini guys everyone keeps mentioning? :confused: [sarcasm] :D

w007yoshi - Yep, the rear end is where I always start. After tire choice of course. That's where the wieght transfer goes to under acceleration and is the most important end for forward bite. Once I settle it down, I work on steering making small adjustments to both ends so as not to 'loosen' the car up. Once my steering is cool and I get rid of the 'push' without upsetting the rear, I'm there - NEUTRAL handling.

[wyd]

ZoomZoom I suddenly forgot who they are as well.:D

The SP edition Yoke is on average a little more twitchy than any other Yoke to date. I like the layout but it is a tad harder to get setup but all in all it is a great car. It is one of my favorite cars to run.:D

[Yokomo_King]

Masami is a legend the greatest RC Guy that lived
Chris tosolini i met hes a great guy .
they 2 are sponserd by Yokomo The Top 2 drivers in Yokomo

[w007yoshi]

You thought they were serious King???? :rolleyes: :rolleyes: LOL :D :D


I think that with the sp chassis you run the 'stiffer than front' rear springs while on the older worlds chassis you run the 'softer than front' rear springs. I think that made sense :o

[ZoomZoom]

Yeah, I've heard of Masami Tosillini...he's a nice guy. I hear Chris Hirosaka is cool too. :D LOL :D

[xxxkat]

Just put my tc together, should I use the sway bars?Racing sat. and right now I dont have them hooked up.

[ZoomZoom]

Racing on asphalt or carpet? On asphalt, I use the thin swaybar up front and none in back. On carpet I use the thick copper bar up front and a thin one in back.

[xxxkat]

Asphalt,Thanks for the info.The track Im racing has some large banked turns(asphalt oval) and they use the infield for the road course,fun track.

[DogBone]

Hey guys,

For those of you running the TC special. I have a tip for you. If you are using sway bars in the front, use the sway bars for the Associated TC3. This requires drilling a hole on the back of the front sus arms for the ball studs, but it will make the car more stable. I am here in Japan and this is what the Yokomo drivers are using (and so am I!) I have some other setup tips if anyone wants them.

Dog Bone:D

[xxxkat]

Dogbone any tips on the Yokomo send away.I just got mine,so any tips or tricks will help. :D

[AZBUSA]

Can you post some picts of the sway bar tip..

[DogBone]

ok here goes. For more grip in the rear as you are building or rebuilding, the rear bulkheads have four small raised lips that hold them in place on the chassis. Two per bulkhead have. Before installation set them in the direction they would normally go and turn them to where these lips are looking at you. Cut the rear lips off. and file the excess off. Now place a 0.5mm washer back there and assemble normally. This will raise the angle of the rear sus arms and help the car to gain more traction.

In your front shocks use two o-rings arond the shaft as bumps stop limiters. This keeps the car from completely rolling through a turn.

For the drive belts, use the black rear belt. It's a little more sturdy and lasts longer. Just remeber to use WD40 and soak the belts to soften them up for at least 5-10 min.( Most recommend three days) before installation. The brown main belt (large belt) works fine.

I have some other tips and tricks available, but I'm pressed for time at the moment so I write more later.

I'll get the picture of the mod as soon as I can get to my shop and get the car.

Dog Bone

[wyd]

DogBone if you do the rear bulkhead mod does this essentially give the rear arms some anti squat? I will have to take my car apart in a few minutes and check out what you are explaining to I understand (So I can see exactly what is happening). I know what you are saying so now I will have to just go check it so I can get the visual.

I like these little tips!!!!!:D

[DogBone]

This mod does not give the car anti squat, what it does is roll the rear sus arms forward to give the car more bite. With this it also eliminates the gap between the rear diff cover and the upper deck. On my YMP version there was a 2mm gap here. The washers removed that gap. My TC has about 5mm rebound in the front and 7mm in the rear. This is weird to me since I used to run 0mm in the front and 2mm in the rear.
A few weeks ago I sat and watched Yokomo's Shinnosuke Adachi build a TC from the ground up and took on some notes and a few tricks. As I get them I'll pass them on. In the mean time if some of you have doubt as to whether or not this is real, Adachi comes once in a while and teaches sort of RC 101 to us less fortunate drivers. The website is http://improve.cool.ne.jp. It's all in Japanese, but the pictures don't lie.

Dog Bone

[DogBone]

Guys heres a quick and easy way to set your car. Keep in mind the majority of your setup is tire choice. If the tires grip then you can run just about any spring combination. This is assuming that you all have threaded shocks. I hate preloads. Good gauges but an overall setup killer. If your car is loose and it wants to back into the turns, soften the spring tension. If the car has a push or wants take wide turns tighten the tension. The rest of your setup is in your gear choice, motor and radio. Of course the driver is a huge part of the whole thing, if you are consistent then you'll know what's right and what's not. Remember you don't have to go fast to be fast. Some of the fastest people on the track have some of the slowest lap times. Consistency is a huge factor when it comes to time. Try to avoid different springs for front and rear. Try the same color springs on all four corners. This will help in determining what the car is doing.

Put your ride on a diet. If it's not needed, toss it. Any of you use the blue aluminum battery brace. Nice isn't it! Toss it. It adds weight. Use fiberglass tape, it may seem stupid now but weigh a car with that brace and then weigh it without it, big difference. Get rid of the standoffs for the brace also, they just get in the way.

Anybody use saddle packs? It's all I use. Did you know that an exposed end of a saddle pack will drain juice into the chassis? I didn't! I spent two weeks wondering why my esc's were blowing. (Two LRP quantum competitions and a GM V12 - NOT CHEAP!!!) Also cooked three motors while I was at it. Voltage drain into the chassis. It was draining twice as fast because I was running the car and it was escaping into the chassis so the amps got overworked and melted as did the motors. Simply use CA glue in the battery slots and this acts as an insulator so you don't have the problem I did, plus it wouldn't hurt to do it anyway since it doesn't add alot of weight. If your car is weighing in at 1500 grams with old tires you're golden. No more than 1515g with new tires. The reason I say this is that if you run on asphalt and at the end of a run the inside of the body is coated with rubber particles then you have an outstanding setup. This is how I gauge the setups where I run. If at the end of a run there is tire particles all over the shell and I've kept it rubber side down the entire time then I've got a decent setup. If I have a little rubber here and there then either I was bored and didn't drive like I normally do or somethings off! Anyway some more of my TC philosophy. Drive hard and keep er' rubber side down!

Dog Bone

[King]

Where do you guys go to get parts. MY lhs don't stock any parts for my car and they can't get all of the parts for my car. Like arms and belts.:confused: :)

[wyd]

Try SpeedTech R/C in California. I ordered some stuff for my Yoke their.

[AZBUSA]

I blew out my front one-way, one of the roller balls came out, it caused my car to have wicked pull to the right, 3WD.. I was just gonna try the front diff in the front. I built it several ways but I can't get the bearings to line up in the bulkhead....Is there a front diff assembly for sale?

[DogBone]

You have to trim out with a hobby knife the bulkhead and cover so that the bearings aren't pinched. This will aid in everything rotating freely.

[DogBone]

Just released in Japan. Yokomo's top engineers have released a new option for the TC. If any of you have seen the 1/12 scale car Masami runs many of you know that the composite material looks almost like space technology. Yokomo has taken the same approach with the TC. An all new woven graphite plate chassis, upper deck, battery brace and front/rear shock towers have just been introduced. No word as to when they will hit the stores. I have some pictures of it that I am working on getting converted into digital images. Also Yokomo has taken the TC and chopped it to make a Yokomo version of the HPI RS4 Mini. The difference here is that the mini Yoke runs on 4 cells vice six. Check back in a day or so for the pics.

DogBone

[Yokomo_King]

if your looking for pictures here you go i already have the pictures oh yeah yokomo has a new Yokomo Stratus Type D
http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/hs4-5.JPG
http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/hs4-4.JPG

[DogBone]

I just found out a litlle more on the special Yoke. Word is that it will be released sometime after the first of the year and the price is ASTRONOMICAL. Almost $800 for the new special as a kit. No word as to what parts will cost, I'm sure the chassis alone will run about $150 due to the special nature of the composite material.

Dog Bone

[AZBUSA]

Has anybody tried using the front diff on the TCSP? If so what did you think....The track I race at is really tight and I think it might work.

[SuperRally1]

hjk

[Yokomo_King]

I use all direct For my Track its tight and all But i perfer if you use all 1 ways Cuz make your car more efficet and and mkaes your car go into and out of turn Faster.. My home Track is www.socalrc.com :-P

[wyd]

If Yoke is going to try to sell that car for that much they can pack it up and forget it as they won't be selling too many. 800 is out of hand. I like Yoke and most of the time I run their TC. I like my SP but it does have some slop and for how much it is I'm actually disappointed a little with it. My Pro was alot better, even though most of the parts are the same.

[Yokomo_King]

Well first of all that price is the retail price i bet the car will cost below $300 us cash the chassis would be great for Carpet racing and othere places where there is high traction.... well just wait about 3months or so when it comes out the price will drop every1 will hate yokomo again and go back to Slosi and TC3. But we few yokomo Drivers could say we lost cause we were out numberd every 3 losi or 3 Tc3 there is 1 yokomo. At my track im the basically the only one Using The Yokomo. there is about including me 3 people using yokomo. me and the othere guy are the only one who races... well Just think of this if we win with yokomo in a race where there were no Yokomo Then we Did a great job and proved to everyone that yokomo Is unbeatable and Yokomo Will live on forever. We dont need no Slosi or TC3 i will admit they are great cars and all but I still Trust yokomo and they wont breakk

[wyd]

It is kinda that way for me. I'm one of only 2 Yokes at our track. I really like the car layout over all the other cars I have run. I just wished Yokomo had better parts support as for their part in general. It is very hard sometimes to find part numbers or just new products. It is like it is a secret for the racers to find out. I kinda hate that.

Overall I like the Yoke as it has been a great car for me most of the time. I will wait to see how much that silver graphite is as I would like to have it for my SP. It just is very cool looking and my track has plenty of traction so it should be fine.

[xxxkat]

Thats the same for me,Im the only one using a yokomo at my track,my problem is I dont have the HP that alot of other guys have(old batterys).Yokomo handles great,does not break,and Im 2 laps faster with it than I was with my tc-3.I to wish parts support was better,but as much as I like my yokomo,I can live with it.:D

[Yokomo_King]

ill help all of you people out that cant get your hands on the part. Just give me the part that you need and ill go To my LHS cause they are disturbutor for yokomo. and ill e-mail you back Telling you how much ill cost to get the Part. then you could send me the money + shipping and ill send the part on priority mail.
E-mail me @ Yokomo_King@yahoo.com i will be pleased to help out any Yokomo Drivers. I will no rip any one off. and ill send the reciept to you.Have a Great RC life :D :D :D

[wyd]

Hey that would be great. Do you think they have any of those ball studs to the front end setup Masami and Chris use. I think the part number is ZS-007F.

So you know what degree toe the rear hub carriers are on the stock Yoke SP? I just finished taking of my GPM 2 degree alum rear hubs and put the stock plastic ones on and did the ball stud conversion by cutting them down and putting ball studs on them. I also mover my rear camber link off the shock tower and onto the rear deck like some of the Yoke guys were doing. I made a ton of changes for my Yoke for next week. It is going to be like running a new car. It is only about 3 months old but with all the changes it should be a giant change for the good/bad. Need to try some of the stuff the Yoke guys are doing as with all the previous Yokes I have had (2 Pros) I didn't really do any of these changes.:D

[xxxkat]

Right now my yokomo works so good on the track I race at,I use the zen aproach(car on stand and I just look at it)I dont think I could make it handle any better than it already does.The only problems I have is me.(driving wise or would that be un-wise)I am running the car just the way it comes.If anything I have to much steering,but it has great traction.

[Yokomo_King]

Ok the stock hub carriers Are 5degree :-P ill check it tomorrow i have to go pick up some stuff as well. If you would like to talk to me feel free to Im Me on AIM TheNiceAzn

[tl01boi]

if u have a yokomo yr-4 sport or a yokomo yr-4m please put up your pic because i wanna c what they look like before i order them and which car is better

[Yokomo_King]

Just get a Yokomo MR4- Series itll be better then the YR4-Ms
1.YR4-M2 Pro would be alot better(theres a Japan Pro better and theres a USA PRo)
2.YR4-M2
If you want to win Just Get a Yokomo MR4-Special its a Awesome car that will gaurentee you in the top 5. Go with the MR4s youll never regret it. i personally never have ive driven many cars in RC i Go with yokomo cuz Its qaulity in the making and parts are at a good price.WEll TLO1 Boy ill kick the leaving shiz nick out of TLO1:p . well all i could find is a YR4-M2 pic http://images.andale.com/f2/130/128/6597816/photoalbum/1037061625852_000_0142.JPG . man this post is dead . any one won there Race track race? if not what place did you get? just remember if you loose that makes you try harder if you loose that makes you better if you win you did great and got better

[DogBone]

The hubs I use one my special are 3 degree hubs for a more balanced car. This also helps the tires wear across the contact patch more evenly for better traction. I have a set of Team Suzuki hubs, but don't use them because I stay in the stock class. As for the ball studs, they're plastic. Just make sure you are using the short ones in the front and the long ones in the back, if not it'll pinch the shock shaft slightly and not allow the shock to travel the full range. My track is extremely tight and I run high 11's to low 12's (approximately 100m w/ several hair pins).

As for the new TC it may not be available in the US. Speculations are that this will be a limited edition instead of regular production vehicle, but it's not clear yet. I'll ask some sources inside Yokomo Japan and see if I can find out anymore on this.

Dog Bone

[wyd]

Hey Yokomo King I TQ'ed and won with my Yoke SP. I made so many changes to it and tried a type C Stratus yesturday. It was a nice bocy and I like ti better than my 2.0 Protoform Stratus. It is setup to fit perfect on the MR4 series.

I also did the rear ball stud setup on my rear hub carriers. I like the mod as it helped my car rotate in the corners faster but still had alot of forward traction. I just need to change my front tires so they are not so aggressive and the car will be almost perfect. I need to run TRC purple foam rears and TRC Double Purple fronts. I run on indoor asphalt so traction is pretty high and by the end of the night with TRC Purples on front and rear it tries to oversteer a ton. I ran Double purples before on it and it was great. This is the only touring car I have ever had to run this combination before. The Yoke SP does have more steering than most of the other touring cars I have tried. Seems most of the time I try to take a little away.

[Yokomo_King]

WOW That is Great GOOD Job. Experimenting is the best way to go since you won ill put a lil something for every1 to see. This is a Converter so you could you the TC3 Steering Rack on the Yokomo :-P http://www.tokyo-hobbies.com/ass.jpg

[Aluma]

hi, a friend of mine has a Hara edition MR4TC worlds.(not the special) does anyone have a good setup for a short, technical asphalt track? Are there any mods he should be aware of or faults with his car? I've never used that car so I wouldnt know how to start with it. HELP.

[Yokomo_King]

if the track has good traction start off by using 50wt shock oil all around with orange springs with a ride height of 5mm all around. Check www.yokomousa.com theyll give you some ideal set ups

[wyd]

Yokomo King that is a cool setup for the MR4TC. I like the steering rack setup on the TC3 but I see alot of people have problems with this system on the TC3 as well. Still very cool looking.

[Yokomo_King]

See the problem is you got to clean that rack cuz debree gets in there and replace that Dang Bushing to bearing make it a lil smoother.Thats all the problem youll have

[DogBone]

Aluma,

I run 35 wt all around, but I'm in a cold part of the world. My front ride height is 5mm and the rear is 5.5mm. Here's the kicker. Most cars operate the best with 2-3mm rebound in the back and 0mm in the front. I have 5mm rebound in the front and 7mm in the rear. Also if you don't like the Yokomo springs try the Associated springs for the TC3. The best thing here is to use longer shock shafts in order to make this work. Another idea is to use bump stops in the front. 2 orings between the perch and the shock body. This is most effective if your shocks have full range.

Dog Bone

[xxxkat]

Dogbone have you seen the new yokomo yet?Is it out in japan,I have seen a few photo's but no word on when they will have them for sale.

[Yokomo_King]

WEll what i am hearing is that there might be a chance that it wont be out here cause its a limited edition in Japan. But they will sell the UpGrade parts Bestides the chassis in the US. But Its time for yokomo to make a New Car I love the MR4 series but come on you can only Call a car MR4 so long But mayeb it means Masami Racing 4 touring Cars!!!

[wyd]

Anyone tried running a locked front diff as in no diff balls and completely locked as if it were glued together. I know many Associated and Losi drivers are doing this with great success. It is like having a front one way but you still have 4wd braking. You get the best of both worlds.

I guess a company called Dragon Racing is making locked type diffs for the TC3 and XXX-S.

[superspeed]

yup, it's good stuff, definitely worth it.

[wyd]

How did you go about locking your diff out. I was thinking of using some thing cardboard and make some diff rings. I then was going to use no thrust bearings or diff balls. I then would put the diff together and hopefully it would be locked once I tightened the diff screw.

[Yokomo_King]

Well if you guys get the Front diff locked LMK cuz i want to try it as well. May be you take out all the diff balls and Thrust ball and Diff rings and put thread lock onto the Nut and Tighten the Screw as much as possible. Maybe that would work.

[wyd]

Todd Hodge from Losi was telling a good friend of mine about how Losi did it. He did the cardboard trick for the diff rings. I guess they are using something like a business card to make diff rings and then no diff balls or thrustbearings. Then tightend her down. I'm going to look into making one tonight to have for next weekend. I don't know if I have all the stuff I need. I think I have all the stuff but the bearings for in the diff gear.

[Yokomo_King]

Im hearing some stuff about a yokomo Special V2 or something. Yokomo Should name the car diffrent something new MR4 SEries has gone to long... MR4-TC MR4-Pro MR4-V spec MR4-World MR4-Barry baker MR4-K4 MR4-Special MR4-Special limited(in jp only).Think of some new names they could call there car! YWC i think would be good (Yokomo WOrld Champs)

[Yokomo_King]

im hearing now that yokomo will come out with Yokomo Special V2 ill be updated stuff

[#1yokomoracer]

ive got a problem. I ahve had my mr4 se for about 5 months now and i have been having problems getting trcation. ive tried different springs, tires, oil, ect. please post a solution if you have one

[xxxkat]

What tires are you using?My yokomo is so hooked up,I'm running the way it came. I think tire choice is huge on the yokomo,plus your running a one way,to much brake...sideway city. :D

[DogBone]

Yoke Racer,

Check out the posts that I wrote a few months ago. Should be on the second or third page of this thread. Try them, If none of them work then it's time for a overhaul. One-ways shouldn't make a difference in this unless the front 1-way is sticking. Other than that use bump limiters in the front shocks and make sure your diff hasn't loosened itself up. This can happen, but if you build again and break it in on the stand instead of the track it'll last longer. If you have access to a motor checker it works easy. The rear section has to be assembled in order for it to work. With the motor installed in the car use the checker to power the motor. As the wheels spin hold one side and let the other spin do the same for the opposite side. Don't do this at 7.2V! 5V is enough, besides tire burns aren't worth it. Now tighten the diff screw and repeat the process. Keep doing this until you have silky smooth action from the diff. I say this because this was the only area you didn't touch on.;)

Dog Bone

Oh by the way the new Yoke is out here in Japan and is called MR4-TC YMP SS Version(Silvery Carbon Graphite). The do have a V2, but it's nothing more than the MR4-TC, with upgraded drivetrain. Just FYI.

[aspiringrcracer710]

anybody got outdoor asphalt setups?

[JimmyMac]

My Yok SD... just about done!

[wcoyote_racer]

I found a USA price listing for the New Shaft drive car. HobbyTown USA lists it at $448.80. Just an FYI

Hey guys I know this is a completely different car but I am curious about something on my old YZ-10. Would I be able to use the drivetrain of the MR4 TC on my old car without too many modifications? I was sort of hoping it would be a drop in fit since the parts are so hard to find for the YZ anymore. It might give me a faster drive setup too. And maybe I can start kicking some XXX-4 tail again too. Right now it's pretty much modified to Masami's 1991 World champ specs. (movable Front and Rear bulkhead, HD one way, front overdrive, etc.)

I'm seriously looking into An MR4TC or SD for the local carpet track since I have had so much fun, and success with my YZ.

[wcoyote_racer]

Another SD SSG price from www.stormerhobbies.com $339.95 Those cars look sweet.

[eliseracer]

I was looking around the Yoke forum, and I couldn't find anything on the MR4 i have: MR4-TC Barry Baker edition "BB30". I haven't seen anyone who has one, and I had a few questions about it.
How do you like it compared to a standard MR4-TC?
What size wheels are they? 26 or 24?
Just needed a general impression of where this car stands. Personally, I love it and I'm having a blast driving it.

[RcLaB1]

hello,

just wanted to know, what is the part #'s
to convert the Special into a regular Ball diff up front
set up and also the middle one way shaft to a locked one.

thanks

[mickafet]

hi, any of you guys still using this forum,

I just got a tc sp, looking for pics of the rear ball monut and bulkhead mod. Also did any of you guys do the ftront diff??

Would great to get some advice even if your not racing them any more dogbone??

cheers

[mickafet]

Okay then!!!

What about springs? god there so short, my hpi springs make it sit so high. Are there any other springs other then yoke's that will fit these shocks?

Also I noticed the team drivers adjust the length of the front shock, how do you do this? with the pistonsetc. Also can you take the foan out?

Sorry for all the questions but you lots must know

cheers

[mickafet]

This car is great, but I seem to have very little front dropp? do people run longer shocks? or have the springs hard. I run on carpet and even tho the turn in starts good I wash out mid corner???

cheese