Team Associated B4 buggy forum v2.0

[litegide]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEDE1&P=7

My objective is to be as fast or faster with this B4 I'm building than the nitro guys with there HPI cars racing up and down the street.

I realize I'd have to step up the speed control to a quantum pro reverse or a super rooster, but the extra oompphhh might make the extra 90.00 worth it?

PS I'd just recently built a T3 with a 15T Dbl A 48P/20tooth gear and the quantum super rev esc, it's fast (maybe 30ish mph) but still slower than the gas cars...

Thanks,

Phil

[pudder]

I meant the KR in my previous post.

Another good motor is Corally. I just got a Corally 12 tripple a few weeks ago, I'm just waiting for offroad to come around for me to use it.

It seems all of the guys at my track run Corally mods, maybe you could look into one of those. :)

[litegide]

How many turn? Assuming you're maxamizing your gearing corrrectly, will a 15t do 30 mph, a 12T do 35 mph, a 10T do 40 mph and a 8T do 42 mph 6T 45 mph?

All of those questions probably leave a bunch of variables that could come into play - although I'm just trying to get that "light to finally come on" as to where I understand how much motor makes a difference

:confused: :confused: :confused: To beat those gas cars should I get a 10T DBL? or more motor.

Thank you for putting up questions like these.

Phil

[Mystracing]

If those guys are running the 1 HP SS motor and 2 speed transmissions, your likely to need something in the neighborhood of a 6 turn to even come close to them in a long drag race. You simply can't reasonably overcome their HP advantage. If they are typical hpi's though a 10 double would probably do the trick. One note about the 10 double, I'm talking about a good hand wound one not a speed gem or something like that.

[pudder]

Also, if you have the cash, brushless would be a good option. It eliminates all maitenance and will go fast!

I know someone of KSW_31 who uses a brushless setup on his T3, as well as he has a B4. Maybe you could email him @ ksw_31@hotmail.com, or he might reply here.

[k_sw31]

Yeah on realativly low gearing from what my brushless could pull, I nudge the low 40's on 6 cells. Get a nice controller and the proper setup and you can be roastin those nitro guys! :D

PS, feel free to email me and you can also check out the brushless motor thread (in the electric forum).

But keep in mind they are very spendy, most run 300+ :(

EDIT: Pudder you have my email addy wrong: K_sw31@hotmail.com :)

[litegide]

Mystracing they are running stock vehicles (2) are the traxx monster trucks, one is the hpi stock and one is the duratrax something....all stock gas cars - they think electric cars ****

I really like the T3 we built, it seems extremely fast compared to our stampede and evader bx.

Now this B4 is ready for a power plant almost .

Do you guys have a link to the brushless setup? Not that I can afford it the brushless but by the time I get a esc - quantum pro rev or a super rooster or if I decide not to get in to deep I'll opt for the regular rooster.

Phil

[k_sw31]

Try www.rumrunnerhobbies.com and www.finedesignrc.com :)

[Bigred94]

Mystracing your exactly right, no electric will beat any 2spd Nitro car. The Novak Brushless System for cars is similar to a 19 turn motor, and the Aveox and Lerner Brushless wouldn't fit in a B4. The B4 shines on the track, very well balanced. I crack up over the comments "my B4 pulls wheelies with a stock motor, or pulls wheelies going down the track!!" Hee-Hee.....I run a 10 turn Litespeed hand wound modified and my car doesn't do wheelies. It's not meant to, it's meant to race, Team AE wouldn't sell one to any real racer if the car pulled wheelies. I have an e-maxx, that pulls wheelies. If you want a speed demon, get a nitro or an electric drag car running 14 cells. JMO

[k_sw31]

Actually the lehners and the aveoxs should both fit in the B4, and yes, with the right setup you can roast a nitro. And from what I have heard the novak is around a 12 turn, in terms of performance, some of the first ones to come out were just a little faulty.

[Bigred94]

Aveox are huge, I have one in my El Lobo boat. That's not the point. Are their no people who actually race their B4's in this Forum?? The B4 is a car that was designed to be raced, it's isn't meant to be a drag car. And I will take my Nitro Fusion over any electric and happly race for "title's" No electric would come close. That's why I bought the Fusion, to be fast, as a toy. 70 mph bone stock with a crappy .21 With my Nova Rossi I'm sure it's closer to 85-90..

[RichieRich]

My Bee-Fo

[litegide]

BadAss Paint Job!

Is that done w/a mask? decal?
I'm gonna attempt my T3 and B4 bodies this weekend and am still struggling with the concept of blendid colors such as your lightning or flames.

Can you tell us how you did it?

Phil

[tarvymoto]

What size are the steering bearings for the B4. I just bought my kit last night!!! Can't wait to get it together and race it this weekend.

[adam lancia]

the b4 uses the same steering bearings as the tc3....welcome to team AE

adam

[pudder]

Richie Rich- If you are talking about the design on the side of that Fusion, the one big one with checkers and the pink looking part is actually an internal decal from Team Orion. They have quite a few different designs and different colors for each one.

Actually, taking a second look, it appears that the car just has a black wing, and the rest of the body is silver with the Orion decals.

Hope that answers part of your question. :)

[RichieRich]

Actually guys, they're XXX-main internal decals. I was too lazy to paint anything terrific so I decided to take a shortcut. :) Anyways, I've already added Lunsford turnbuckles, carbide diff balls, ball bearings to the steering and the RPM gear cover. So, far, it's a great car.

[Mystracing]

Bigred94 - All the racers moved over to "are cee ten be four dot comm" including a bunch of us sponsored guys and the full ride factory boys as well. How do you like that code :D

[DLF]

Steering bearings? The kit does not come with ball bearings for the steering?

[pudder]

No, I don't think that the B4 comes with bearings in the steering, but he was just stating that the TC3 bearings are a direct replacement for upgrades.

[TUCRACEMAN]

I think Pudder needs a B4.
:p
~Dave

[BigBadTahoe]

I am thinking of getting a B4 what is a good stock motor for it? Is the kit hard to put together, is the manual easy to understand? This would be my first kit ever! What esc's are good? What about Radio and servos? Sorry about the multiple questions.:( :confused:

[k_sw31]

Basically most stock motors are of good quality (reedy mvp, trinity monster stock, p2ks and GM3s) it just depends on what track you are running.

The kit goes together very smoothly and the directions are great! :D

You shouldn't have much trouble building it at all. :)

Basically any esc should do well, particularly novaks and lrps, I personally prefer novaks though, great costumer service. :D

Most any radio will do, but I suggest a good FM system such as the MX-3 or the XS3i, both good systems, and you should be fine with a standard servo. :)

[pudder]

Originally posted by TUCRACEMAN
I think Pudder needs a B4.
:p
~Dave

Ya... I just need the money for one. :p

I'll probably get one next year, or sometime after the FT comes out. I like having the graphite and all the FT stuff because "If you can't drive good, may as well look good!" :D

[pudder]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
I am thinking of getting a B4 what is a good stock motor for it? Is the kit hard to put together, is the manual easy to understand? This would be my first kit ever! What esc's are good? What about Radio and servos? Sorry about the multiple questions.:( :confused:

Generally all AE kits and instructions are top notch, as well as ease of putting the kit together (parts fit good, ect). I found even their instructions from the late 80's are better than quite a few manufacturers today! :)

Radio: As KSW_31 said, the MX-3, and XS3i are good radios. I am not sure of the features of the MX-3, but I know that the XS3i would last you a long time for the options and technology it has. I have held one of these radios, I really like the feel, well balanced, good grip. Right now I have the XR3, I like it a lot, and the new JR's are even better! I do believe that the XS3i also comes with a metal geared servo, so that would do you for racing for a while. :)

ESC's: As said, LRP or Novak are good. There are several different models to choose from, you can choose the appropriate one deppending if you are going to be racing or not, but usually it is better to get the best you can at first, then you won't have the expense of upgrading later.

Servos: Radios generally come with "standard" plastic geared servos, they are slow, weak, and break easily. Hitec, JR, and Airtronics all offer good racing servos. Get a metal geared one, they will last long and provide the best performance. I do believe that Hitec has the best prices. I use Hitec 625-MG's in my basing cars, and race cars.

Motors: (I don't know if you wanted info, but here it is) Generally, for starting out, you might want to try a "stock" motor. They are "27 turn" motors, they don't require lots of maitenance, and provide decent performance. Some popular motors to this day: Reedy MVP (my favorite stock), Trinity P2k, P2k 2, GM3, and Monster Horsepower Stock.

There is also "Spec" 19 turn motors. They are like mild mod armatures in stock cans, usually with bearings in the endbell and can. They provide good performance, decent runtime, and the maitenance is medium. Companies like Trinity, Losi, and Reedy make spec motors.

Modified motors: Are basically anythingunder 27 turns. Usually people run from 17-6 turn deppending on the application. 12-14 turns give the best all round performance I think. Different winds give different performance, for example, a 6 turn is much faster RPM than a 15 turn because of the less winds, creating more RPM. Less turns also decreases runtime because of the higher amp draw. You can also select from "single, double, tripple, or quad" winds, you can go higher, but generally most motors are made from single to quad winds. This number tells how many times the wire is wrapped around the armature stacks. EX. a 15 turn tripple: there is three wires wrapped around the armature stacks 15 times. The higher you go (single, double, tripple...) the lower top end you will get.

Mod motors also need more maitenance. Brushes, comms, and so on wear out faster. You can get your comm. cut, usually the hobby shop will do it for you, and you can just replace the brushes. You must also make sure that your speed control will handle a mod motor. You can find out the specs of most ESC's on the manufacturers website.

I hope this helps.

If any of this info is false, just let me know and I'll fix it. :)

[litegide]

The B4 is together! The rolling chassis that is - next comes the paint and then the electronics - why...because paint the paint is cheaper!

Actually had a queation for you guys, the Wing on the B4 - Is the clear film on the bottom (or inside) vs the outside or top like the rest of the body? Are you supposed to paint the outside instead?

Painting the B4 and the T3 willl be tomorrow hopefully.

Phil

[drumr racer]

I have something amazing...

Just in from Josh "wheels" Lail (Drumr racer)
He was showing off on his driveway, pulling some fake wheelies, and caught the right front a-arm on the garage pillar thingy. The arm was so built well that it tore the hinge pin straight out of the bulkhead. I'll try to use plan B (super glue, CA, then shoo goo)

[drumr racer]

it tore the hinge pin straight out as in at a 90 degree angle, and nothing happened 2 the a-arm. I'm actually excited.

[litegide]

The wing on the B4 has it's clear plastic film on the bottom (or inside) ???

What am I missing here...Is the top of the wing the side that gets painted ?
:confused:

Maybe because of rocks and debris that could fly up and hit the surface so they reversed it...
Phil

[j. sorwell]

no, you should still paint the bottom of the wing. The film is mainly designed for the body, and the molding progress leaves the film on the wrong side of the wing. Simply seperate the wings from the body(scissors) and remove the film from the wing, a little splatter is better than a flat-colored wing.

[litegide]

Thanks, I'll do that - hopefully post a few pictures of the painted body tonight.

Phil

[pudder]

You are supposed to paint the wing like thus:

Paint the bottom, then paint the wing sides on the inside part.

I hope that makes sense...

Maybe this will help you:

(my rc10 graphite)

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC01903.JPG

Notice that on the wing, it is painted on the bottom, but on the sides it is painted inside. (you can't see the silver stripe on one side.)

[litegide]

I just painted the bottom of the wing (which included the outside of the sides)

I removed the film as instructed and painted that whole bottom side of the wing where the film was - which included the outside of the wing - maybe the decal will cover it :confused:

Phil

[litegide]

Although the inside looks good - I can't believe they don't say something about the film in the directions.

Do they sells wings for the B4 yet?

Phil

[drumr racer]

I saw, and heard in caraction that pro-line interceptor bodies 4 the b-4 includes 2 wings.

[pudder]

Ya, bodies usually come with wings.

Check pro-line's site to make sure. :)

[litegide]

You either like it or hate it! And what's important is - I like it ;) I splotched up the paint on the outside of the wing so I covered it up temperarily with some decals until I get another wing. I just came to terms today about my painting skills - I had put the orion decals on the inside of my T3 which I also painted ( red pearl) looked pretty good and then alittle later the decals shriveled up :mad: I t gets better- I scrambled inside the body to start removing the paint with some thinner I'd found in the shop at work - I was scrubbing away when I saw a tear in the front fender - must of been from the type of thinner - believe it or not I was relieved I didn't have to deal with those dam decals or scrubbing every inch of paint out.

Anyway, there goes 20.00 bucks on a body - I'll order another T3 body - this time no decals (especially the stick on the inside type)

I guess all of the above is called LEARNING :confused:

Phil

[k_sw31]

I like the color. :)

And yes, what you what you said above is a whole lot of learning! :D

[pudder]

Ya, it's okay, learning is good. :) Even if it sometimes costs money, which it usually does.

Decals are good for covering up boo-boo's. :)

[kilrbzz]

I like the color too.

Well, obviously....

[tarvymoto]

This buggy is awesome. I drove/raced mine for the first time yesturday....it was dialed right out of the box!!! AE really did a great job on getting this buggy set up.

[litegide]

What motor
what esc
what gear
what speeds were you able to achieve
what kind of run times diid ya get

? for all the above

- all would be great to know - it's always nice to hear what setups (components) worked good, as in your new b4.

Thank you,

Thanks, Phil

[tarvymoto]

litegide , The first time I put the new buggy down on the track I had a Monster Stock motor gear with a 21 tooth pinion.......it was DIALDED!!!

But we decided to run Mod so I ran a 14x2 Orion in my first heat...geared with a 19 tooth pinion but for some reason that motor had alot of drag brake so I pulled it.

For my second heat and the A main I ran a P94 11x2 gear with a 18 tooh pinion.

Batteries... I ran a combo of Sanyo 3000HV's and GP 3300's and had PLENTHY of runtime with both.

We have a medium sized track with some technical sections and jumps. The track had alot of grip with ifmar pins or ifmar studs if it was freshly watered.

As for gear in my B4....I put my spare speedo which is a C2 in it along with a XXL rx. I have a Futaba 9550 digital servo for steering. I have LRP speedos and futaba servos in my XXXT and XXX4.

I am a "Losi" guy but after seeing the B4 at the Losi race in Clearwater....I wanted to try this buggy and I'm glad I did.

[k_sw31]

Today I picked up some step pins and found some dirt that it hooked up on perfectly. :D

Here it is all cleaned up:
http://www.******.net/media/DSC00361.jpg

after one battery pack:
http://www.******.net/media/DSC00359.jpg

:D

[gubby]

:eek: That mud cant be good for the electronics!

[drumr racer]

Your crazy sacrificing your buggy like that...

...running with no class, put a body on you goof.

[pudder]

No kidding, run a body, you still need to get IT muddy. :rolleyes:

[Mystracing]

litegide - There's no good reason to paint the sides of the wing on the opposite side unless your trying to produce some sort of concourse winner. I've never heard of anyone, prior to this thread, that actully bothered with painting the sides of the wing on the inside. Seems like a lot of time spent for nothing given that the wings usually only last about half as long as the body anyway.

[pudder]

You do have a point about that, most people I know leave their wings clear or have a few decals on them. Actually, my B3's wing is clear as well, I just painted my RC10's because, well, I felt like it. :)

[wcoyote_racer]

Two words: Stupidity kills.

[Lapster]

My front bulkhead broke!!!:(

[litegide]

Hey guys,

I ordered another T3 body today, while I was at it I inquired about the b4 body - they (Tower) had it and it in stock - the additional amount put me up to the 125.00 point to get my 10.00 tower discount- I went for it, the 16.29 body was like 6.00 bucks kinda ;)

Ksw31 does the buggy still work good? Still waiting for the brushless Novak SS to come in, I ordered it and it's due some time in may - in the mean time I have some temperary stuff to put in the car. - A p2k2 and an older novak esc - that I got from a guy (not sure if it works..)


Phil

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by Lapster
My front bulkhead broke!!!:(

Your not the only one...A local racer had his break during practice.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by wcoyote_racer
Two words: Stupidity kills.

Theres something wrong with getting an off-road car dirty?

I dont see the harm in it, running at the local off road track I get just as muddy, take a look at my pede (http://www.******.net/media/muddy.jpg) after 2 batts at the track.

[drumr racer]

Originally posted by wcoyote_racer
Two words: Stupidity kills.

I bet it wasn't stupidity, maybee he was in the sand dunes, and someone caught his frequency, and drove it to a water hole while he was beating him up...




...



...



...suuuuuuuuurrrre

(it had to be pleasure duh. once the car starts getting muddy, the only thing keeping an RCer back is battery life.

[drumr racer]

Originally posted by Lapster
My front bulkhead broke!!!:(
Mine did 2, it was a frreak accident
running on concrete, going fast, hitting a pole= carnage, but only the bulkhead broke, crazy huh?

[wcoyote_racer]

Technically there is nothing wrong getting a bit muddy. I do at the races, but my car never looks like someone took a shovel of mud and dumped on it. If you keep racing like that and expect any life out of your electronics you should either : 1. race with the body on and clipped. 2. Totally encase your electronics so they are waterproof. 3. Use less water on the track, no need for an absolute mud bog.

But if you have the cash to burn. I know all of this will fall on deaf ears. I've been to mud bogs and have seen even the big trucks break because of the muddy track.

It's a matter of preference. If you have the cash and don't care, that's cool. But most kids don't have the luxury to replace servos, motors, and speed controllers every weekend. I frankly prefer to be able to race my car against others as fast as I can, with the least amount of breakage possible, than be stuck in the mud.

[wcoyote_racer]

And one more thing. If you want a really covered buggy with more of a challange (not for the faint of heart), try racing in wet concrete. It's tougher and it leaves more of a mess. But you can't wash it off electronics very well.

[drumr racer]

that sounds like a good idea...

...okay maybee not.....

[Hobbytown Racer]

Why would ANYONE run there car in wet concrete???? I've never heard anyone doing that. I guess if you want to throw your money away, it's your to do so.

I'll be getting a B4 in the next few weeks. After I get it, I'll be dumping packs one after the other at the track hosting the ROAR Modified Offroad Nat's!!! http://www.tiltyard.com/

The track is close enough that I can be there every weekend to practice. :D

[pudder]

Wow, that looks like a really cool track!

[wcoyote_racer]

Hobbytown Racer,

That was my point of the earlier two messages. I'm glad it came through so clearly.

[tarvymoto]

That track looks NICE!!!

I just painted 3 sweet new bodies for my B4. I may put one on eaby. ;)

[drumr racer]

Nice track, post some tips on how you built it.

How can I get an aluminum bulkhead?

[k_sw31]

wcoyote_racer- I appreciate your concern. You have to realize that was really a one time thing. I doubt I will ever see my B4 nearly that muddy again, and no, I think I'll hold off from the wet concrete idea. ;)

[k_sw31]

drumr_racer- From what I have heard you do not need the aluminum bulkhead, as long as you get the aluminum front hingepin brace. The bulkhead cannot break if the hingepin brace does not break. So that will save you a lot of money and weight in the front end. :)

[mike_Webb]

HobbyTown... You better get there soon... I will be there with my B4 :)

[litegide]

Awsome paint Job!

Can you post a side view of the B4.

Phil

[litegide]

Hi,

Alright I'm getting closer to running the B4, my motor showed up yesterday, I am going to install it now. Ws wondering if any of you have expirimented with similar setups.

Here is what I have:

1) 9 Turn speed gem pro Cryptonite mtor
2) 48 pitch gears - I have a 16, 18, 22, 24 and 26 variety
3) ESC - Quantum pro reverse (up to 7 Turn)

So, what do you think I should use in the above gear selection?
16-26 less the 20 which I already used...


Not much experience here :o

Thank you,

Phil

[pudder]

I think there is a gearing chart in the back of the manual, take a look there. :)

[litegide]

The chart in the back of the book, goes from a 24T through 10T,

They spec a 19 tooth pinion for the 10T, would it be the same for the 9T? Should I go buy another gear because what I have that's close would be either the 18 pinion or the 22 pinion?

Wondering what the ideal gear would be for my 9T?

Phil

[tarvymoto]

litegide , use a 17 or 18 for the 9x2 motor.

I run a 18 or 19 pinion for an 11x2 motor at my track.....which has some tight sections.

[drumr racer]

I need help with this, I already looked in the book for servo horn charts. What servo arm do I use with a multiplex PROFI-SPEED mc/v2?

[litegide]

You're right - forgot to say it was a Double.

I already have the 18, I might as well go with that right - is the car faster with the 18 - moreso than the 19?


The higher the gear the faster but the hotter correct...?

Thank you,

Phil

[pudder]

18 will be a tiny bit slower.

[tarvymoto]

Originally posted by pudder
18 will be a tiny bit slower.

The 18 will have a bit less top end but will have better punch coming out of the corners.

[pudder]

Thanks for putting it in more detail. :)

[BigBadTahoe]

Hey, I am pretty sure I want get a B4, as this will be my first AE car. I heard the front bulkhead breaks a lot, this is true right? What else breaks often, and is there any aluminum hopups for it such as the bulkhead? I also was wondering about what motor to use I want it to be fast but I can't really do much maintence work. I was going to run a 10 turn D5 or Kyr. 10turn and ethier a Quantum pro or novak duelly. Thats when I figured that a BL setup wouldn't cost much more, what should I do? I have already ordered a MFE truck with the SS BL, should I get an SS for the B4 also? Remember I want this buggy to be quick but no uncontrolable. Thanks! Any suggestions help.:D :confused:

[k_sw31]

Well, I have heard of people breaking the front bulkheads, but I have had a few hard smacks and haven't broken anything. From what I have heard if you get the aluminum front bulkhead brace then you wont be breaking the bulkhead. :)

[BigBadTahoe]

Where can I order the brace from? Any ideas about the motor setup for it?

[k_sw31]

Well, I have a 14x1 D5 in mine right now, I am happy with the speed, but still plenty controllable. You might want to wait till you get your first SS BL and see how you like it in your MFE, then based on your likes go for what ever you want. I personally would go for the brushless, just for the low maintenence. :D

[drumr racer]

Does anybody know which servo arm fits on a multiplex servo?

[BigBadTahoe]

What are some other BL setups on the market that would be a good choice to use for the B4?:confused:

[adam lancia]

i think hitec servo arms have the same number of splines as multiplex

adam

[drumr racer]

That's awesome that Ryan Maifield was in caraction. I just got help with the GT7 from him.
Small World

[BigBadTahoe]

I was just wondering if there were any BL setups that can compare to the SS if there are any? If I were to run a 12t double how fast wold it go approx. and how long would it have good performance without performing any maintence on the motor? Please just give some idea of what would happen eventually?:confused:

[k_sw31]

There are many brushless setups out there to choose from. There is a huge range of motors and controllers from lehner (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com) as well as hacker and aveox. Most of these combos will have just as much or more power compared to the novak.

But these setups are much more expensive and the controllers are not nearly as good as that of the novak setup.

Also check out www.finedesignrc.com for some cool brushless setups.

[litegide]

Hi Guys,

I finally got my B4 together! I installed the ESC tonight - (which I just got in the mail)

It's already dark here but had to take it for a test run through the house, it didn't take long before my wife, dog and cat shooed me to the basement. That baby feels fast and corners great!

Anyway, I 've zipping around and low to short spurt speeds for about 5 minutes or so. I decided to put the body on and came across the HOT speed control? Is it normal for the ESC to get hot just putzing? I just went through the setup, not sure if that has something to do with it or not...

The ESC is the Quantum Pro reverse (good to 7T) the motor is the 9T Dbl, and is has a 48 pitch 19 tooth pinion. If that helps any :confused:

Thanks,

Phil

[G24racer]

Your're rippin around on carpet with a 9 turn, things are going to get hot.

[k_sw31]

Well, things should be getting pretty hot since you are running a 9x2. But check to make sure your gear mesh is set right and there is nothing dragging in the tranny...You also might see what stepping down a tooth or two on the pinion would do...:)

[litegide]

How'd you know it was carpet! It was rippin alright! That cat can't even keep up with that buggy in the basement. LoL.

So, you think it's normal...? The ESC did come with heat sync's, do you guys use'em?

Phil

[k_sw31]

If you are getting pretty hot (how long can you hold your fingers on the esc without it feeling too hot?) then go and use the heat sink, it should help a bit. :)

[litegide]

Are 9 T pretty hot motors? Does the heat damage anything, I had an 18 in there before I fired it up, changed it to a 19, which you and pudder thought might be ideal for the 9T, I guess I need to hit the road to really tell.

I'll check it out tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys,

Phil

[k_sw31]

9 turns should run fairly hot, but none of your electronics should get so hot as you cant hold you finger on them for more than 3-4 seconds. If the motor itself gets really hot, then you can burn the brushes, they will appear purplish colored and result in a loss of power and increased wear.

[litegide]

The ESC was hot, to hot to hold your finger on it, the motor wasn't all that hot - no problem w/the finger test there.

When I was first getting ready to program it, I has the ESC olugged into the wrong slot on the receiver (where the 4AA batttery's plug in) the ESC lit up but couldn't get it to go into test mode - I had it plugged into the normal battery pack - the servo worked but nothing from the ECSC, Iaalthough ervo lit up I wonder if programming the ESC heated it up?

[litegide]

The ESC was hot, to hot to hold your finger on it, the motor wasn't all that hot - no problem w/the finger test there.

When I was first getting ready to program it, I has the ESC olugged into the wrong slot on the receiver (where the 4AA batttery's plug in) the ESC lit up but couldn't get it to go into test mode - I had it plugged into the normal battery pack - the servo worked but nothing from the ECSC, Iaalthough ervo lit up I wonder if programming the ESC heated it up?

[litegide]

The ESC was hot, to hot to hold your finger on it, the motor wasn't all that hot - no problem w/the finger test there.

When I was first getting ready to program it, I has the ESC olugged into the wrong slot on the receiver (where the 4AA batttery's plug in) the ESC lit up but couldn't get it to go into test mode - I had it plugged into the normal battery pack - the servo worked but nothing from the ECSC, Iaalthough ervo lit up I wonder if programming the ESC heated it up?

[litegide]

The ESC was hot, to hot to hold your finger on it, the motor wasn't all that hot - no problem w/the finger test there.

When I was first getting ready to program the ESC, I had the ESC plugged into the wrong slot on the receiver (where the 4AA batttery's plug in) the ESC lit up but couldn't get it to go into test mode - I had it plugged into the normal battery pack - the servo worked but nothing from the ECS, although I could hear a small hum, then realized that I had it in the wrong slot. :confused:

When I plugged it into the right slot it programmed AOK.

When I first went into the program mode the throttle was maxed! The rear tires turned into balloons - scared the **** out of me!

Hope I didn't mess nothing up....

Phil

[k_sw31]

Well, your esc should be fine, as long as you followed all the proper setup instructions, etc.

I guess you should see how it runs tomorrow...

Good luck. :)

[litegide]

Hi guys, took the B4 out today for the first time. I finished my paint jobs' too! I couldn't believe the orange/yellow flames turned out so good!

The B4 went through two packs, the Quantum pro reverse was warm (probably because of the 9T) but not to bad. The T3 has the Quantum Super reverse, it felt cooler (probably because of the 15T)

That B4 flies - Hence the Tires!




Thanks,
Phil

[pudder]

Lookin' good, and glad youre having fun.

[k_sw31]

Good job on the bodies litegide!

[litegide]

For charging Reedy 3000 NIMH Batteries can I use a Tower Hobbies model 420 120v peak charger, it has a 15 min timer?


I also have an older MRC Super Brain Model 809 charger - this one has a 2 amp anda 4amp charge setting?

I have a bunch of the prinah batteries but I just invested in two of the better batteries.

Phil

[tarvymoto]

You may want to use the Superbrain for the NiMh's , check to see if it has ajustable cutoff.

[drumr racer]

You should try to get a good charger with the nihm2 mode like the Ionic.

[MikeWz]

Guys, just bought a B4 that I plan to run in the Mod races at my track. I've never had an electric before(other than an Micro RS4, but that's not a real car) and I'm not sure what electronics to get. Any ESC, Motor, Battery recommendations?
I've heard good things about Fantom, Reedy, and Orion.

[Lapster]

I run a

Monster stock/D4
C2
Xs3
Hi speed/ torque servo


It is a great setup. Love the car a lot too.

[MikeWz]

Okay, bought the Trinity BK edition P-94 motor. It's a 9x2 motor. I bought GP 3300 605s matched pack, and an LRP Quantum Pro motor. Wadda think so far?

[Lapster]

Where are there any bulkheads in stock?

[litegide]

Me and the little guy had the cars out today screaming around a church parking lot. We had A ton of fun for a while -

Anyway, the B4 Broke first...

9566 Top Plate
and the
9568 Front Shock Tower are the broken parts. Our Evader had a Stress Tech warranty...Does the Asscociated come with anything like that? Will I be able to buy these parts from Tower yet?

Then we just ran our stampede and the T3, shortly there after with no collisions of sort and the T3 stopped working... I opened it up and found the Quantum Super reverse ESC had popped open :confused: when I snapped it back together it ran wide open and started smoking!

We called it quits right there.
Not sure why the Quantum would smoke like that
:o

Phil

[wcoyote_racer]

Associated kind of has a Stress Tech type of warranty. Most of the time if you think any part has broken abnormally during use, You can send that part in for evaluation. If the defect was not because of abnormal wear and tear (like driving into a concrete wall, doing extreme jumps and other abusment like that), Associated will most likely replace the defective part.

They do this to get more info on how strong the design is and if they need to redesign any parts to be stronger, or if they have problems with weak moldings.

One problem I have been hearing about is the front of the battery tub has been cracking and sometimes breaking off even with using the foam spacer. It seems like it happens only in the battery forward position. In previous designs, the upper battery brace post reinforced part of the front wall and gave it extra strength. If you know anyone with this problem, have them send the chassis to Associated so they can evaluate it.

[k_sw31]

I have not have problems with that front wall giving way, but something else did happen....

To make a long story short, I smacked into a wall, everything seemed fine, except for the steering, it was locked all the way to the right. It turned out on impact my batter bent my (homemade) aluminum battery bar up, then it slid forward and broke an ear off the servo.

I sorta would like to see associated re design that place in the chassis a little bit...:)

[wcoyote_racer]

That is pretty wild.

The more I talk with people, it seems that it is a chassis flex issue. The crack begins at the top front of the battery tray It was beginning to sound like an isolated incident but both composite and graphite chassis have been spotted with the crack. One guy thought it was absurd until he did a close inspection on his B4 and found one also.

Because of the low CG the chassis has a tendency to slap the ground off of jumps more, I'm thinking that while it's doing this The sides flex outward and cause the stress. Normally that's ok and the chassis is built for that if you land good, but if you slap it on the top of like a triple or something like that (fast and long jump) the sides flex too much and eventually that spot on the battery tray cracks.

The people I have been talking too are usually novices at RC and have had some major crashes. So that might contribute as well. This particular person has only had the car land on the middle of the third part of a triple jump. That doesn't seem like serious abuse to me.

[MikeWz]

We should talk to AE about this one. Maybe they can come up with some sort of reinforced design. AE is really good about that kind of stuff.

[Twist 2 Go]

OK guys, I pick up my B4 tomorrow at my lhs. What additional parts ( upgrades, shock oils, etc...) would you recommend and why? What spare parts are best to have? Also , I am forced to run modified at my local track so what motor, esc, and batteries would you recommend. It's a pretty large track set up mostly for gas cars and trucks. The lhs recommended a 12x2 for this track and has several brands to choose from. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[k_sw31]

I have been running a 14x1 D5 in my B4, it sure screams. Either a D5 or a reedy Ti or Kr would be good.

You shouldn't really need any spare parts except you may want to pick up a titainium turnbuckle set and go for an aluminum bulkhead brace to keep from breaking the front bulkhead.

[wcoyote_racer]

MikeWz,

So far I know of only a few people that have sent their chassis into AE for eval. I'm mostly posting this so people start watching for this problem. That way AE can get on the ball with it. Most are using Shoe Goo on the front corners of the battery tray to reinforce the area. I'm not sure how well this helps, too soon to tell.

Twist,

I would definately get the aluminum front bulkhead brace, or be prepaired by buying some extra bulkheads if you can't get the brace. Titanium is always a good upgrade. Get some springs too. Good tuning tool. Although I have heard the new brown springs are not in the spring kit, and have to be bought separately. Shock oil most people I've seen are running 20-30WT. And from those two you can make 25WT if you want.

[tallyrc]

or you can just buy 25wt oil....

[litegide]

I actually printed some of our good dialogue in this forum about the cars breaking and the parts in contention and the suggestion of sending them to AE for evaluation. And that is exactly what I did, I sent the parts to them on Monday due to arrive today. I'll call them tomorrow to see what they think?

Phil

[tallyrc]

your going to put a 9x2 in a 2wd buggy??????? that is a little much man. on a very rare case i will run an 11 turn, but that is as low as i go.

[DLF]

I'll run a 9x2 in a 2wd buggy...but that's pretty much my limit. I usually like low turn motors geared down on tight tracks. However, I'll admit my normal motor is also an 11 or 12 turn.

[Randman]

Not really sure what's up with the body there, but that's why I paint my own. I just ordered a bundle of parts for my B4 today, and I should have it at the racetrack by next weekend. I am going to be running a Reedy Kr 10x2 with Reedy XCell 3300 packs, I hope it's fast enough to keep with the expert mod class at SoCal Raceway... BTW, anyone race at SoCal, what tires work on the car?

[G24racer]

The Reedy Kr 10x2 should be very fast!! I believe most guys are running Holeshots at SoCal.

[dragracer28]

Trinity is selling an aluninum front bulkhead now for $20 this should solve everyones problem. It is an expensive part but you shouldn't break it.

[k_sw31]

Those new trinity parts look pretty pricey, I mean, c'mon, 10$ for the front brace! :rolleyes:

And then 20$ for the battery bar, sort of a rip, but I'm sure it will look good! :D

[Twist 2 Go]

The associated frt brace is ten bucks also.

[DLF]

What's everyone's feedback on the new slipper clutch? I've only put mine thru a quick post build test run on the street...hasn't been to the track yet. With that, I found that the clutch definatly has a finer adjustment than before. I like taking advantage of a clutch although they don't seem to work too well on an inconsistant track like mine.

[adam lancia]

going for my first test run on the track with the buggy tonight so we'll see how it works out.....:)

adam

[k_sw31]

I really like the new slipper design, much more easier to fine tune. :)

[Lapster]

If you want to have a cover that covers the whole clutch.... get one of the RPM covers. They fit almost perfectly and are a lot more durable.

[gedertr]

Has anyone heard if AE will produce a "Factory Team" B4??? I would like to get a B4, but I am waiting for one with more...stuff!

[k_sw31]

I dont think one will be coming out for awhile...seeing how they just released the FT NTC3. :p

[Twist 2 Go]

I've heard it will be at least a year. But with associated. Who knows. If you don't yet have a B4, DON"T WAIT!!!!!! Go ahead and get one and add the appropriate Factory Team stuff and build your own.

[pudder]

Ya, my race director said that FT probably won't be out for a long time either (half a year to a year). Upgrading to FT would be nice, but it sure costs a lot. :(

[adam lancia]

my advice would be just buy the FT stuff that makes a performance difference. don't worry about the aesthetic stuff unless that's something you really like. this will save a little $$$$,

adam

[k_sw31]

I agree, really the only factory team items I need are the Ti turnbuckles, and that is essentialy it, so I just ordered the team version. :)

[Henry G]

Is associated going to release an rtr version of the b4?

[tallyrc]

there still is no FT NTC3, that was just an add showing all the FT parts...

[gedertr]

I will not wait for the FT version, but will add the TI turnbuckles...I want to put some batteries together and I have noticed a whole bunch of different battery bars...copper, platinum, gold, etc .....is there really an advantage over plain copper bars? Is the price for the "platinum" bars worth it???

[litegide]

Hi Guys,

I finally purchased some ok batteries for the new buggy, here is what I bought.

(2) Reedy 3000 NIMH sport pack batteries
(1) Duratrax intellapeak digital charger

To tell you the truth after reading up and down on the battery forum, I'm afraid to plug this new charger in! in result of doing it it wrong and ruining the batteries? They cost way to much for me to trash!

Is their some simple way of explaining how to do this properly specifically for this charger and these particular batteries without so many variables. Once I understand how to do these batteries I'll try and digest all of the other rule of thumbs - but for now it's over my head.

Plug it in and charge it, discharge it - I guess all batteries are different but these came w/no instructions :confused:

Totally confused :confused: I'd be greatful if someone was familiar with this intellapek charger and 3000 sport pack that could help me with this.

Thank you,

Phil

[pudder]

I don't know much about that charger, but I can tell you some basics...

Make sure you have it set to a NIMH charge mode if there is one, which is basically a linear charge with a low cutoff point (I am not sure what the cutoff should be at if you can set it) and 3-5 amps is a good rate for charging batts. I prefer to charge mine at 5, but at a lower amp rate you will get a better quality charge, but it will take longer to charge. And remember, red to positive and black to negative. :p Trust me, it is hard to completely screw over your pack with one tiny mistake. Don't worry about it. :)

[kilrbzz]

Intellipeak Digital

I have one. Its a pretty good little charger as long as you plan on using it with DC power long term. The AC adapter is junk. My plug adapter blew three time in the first four months I had it. There service was quick to get it back to me though. Finally I bought a power supply and it has worked flawlessly for about eight months since. So if you are using the AC plug make sure you go easy on it. Give it a rest between packs. If your using a power supply it can go all day on a hot day pushed pretty hard (trust me!)

Its pretty simple. Like pudder said your not going to screw anything up permanently with one mistake. Just plug it in or hook up your power supply, make sure the positive ends go to each other and the Negative ones to each other. Follow Pudders instructions on Amperage unless you have HV's and want more punch for racing. I run Sanyo 3000HV's and charge mine at six amps with great results and minimal lost runtime. The Intellipeak automatically recognizes NIMH from NICD and Will adjust, so theres no switch to worry about. Press the start button and your charging. Also the discharge function is only at 10amps which is fine for bashing and what not but its kind of useless for cycling and will further stress out your adaptor plug. Hope this helps. Have fun!

[kilrbzz]

Geder - the platinum bars are not worth it. I use the Deans 2.0 and 3.0 with good success. The difference in ressistance minimal unless your racing at a worlds level and even then..

Henry - there is no plan for RTR B4. Get the kit, its easy to put together and you will learn more about the car that way. I doubt a FT will be out for at least a year.

[litegide]

Do I need to do a discharge first?

How ill I know when the charge is full? Also, where can I get a real ac power supply for the intellapeak charger and how much do they cost.

Thanks,

Phil

[kilrbzz]

I always discharge my packs. I use a 20 amp set bulbs with a custom cutoff. The intellipeak can do it at 10 amps but go easy on it like I said. The charger will beap when the pack is peaked. When it does check to make sure the pack is warm to slightly hot. If not it may have false peaked, simply hit the button again. I've found discharging my 3000 at 20 amps tends to keep there voltage high but I do loose a small amount of runtime. But since all I do is race voltage matters more than runtime. If all your doing is bashing you really don't need to discharge at all. Just make sure if your not going to use them for more than a week to leave about half a charge in them. Are you racing? or bashing or both.

There are a wide variety of power supplies. It depends on you needs amperage wise. If all your going to use it for is powering the intellipeak you don't need anything more than 6-7 amps. I got a 25 amp at Radio shack but I use it for 2-3 chargers and a motor lathe. I got extra power to avoid over working it. I've had it for eight months without a problem. They start around $30 for smaller ones and go up from there.

[pudder]

If you want a good deal and are not too fussy on what kind of power supply you get, look around the local tracks as well as some message boards, there are lots of good deals to be had out there.

I got a Pyramid 30 amp power supply for 50$ CAD. :)

[litegide]

How long does it take to charge aa 3000 NIMH on fast charge rate with the intellapeak? Not sure if it's considered fully charged when the pack gets warm....Is there a voltage I should be looking for on this intellaeak charger that tells me it's done?

Phil

[Henry G]

Are these descent bashers? What's the minimum amount of money I can spend on building the kit? My bud'll sell me his rooster for 20 bux, and a charger for about 15. the rest of stuff I'll just get cheaper electronics. (Except batteries.) I bought a shark pack for my kyosho pureten. I've been kicking myeslf ever since (about the shark pack and buying the pureten!):rolleyes:

[LavaPunk]

What is the minimum and maxium ride height of a b4? Also can you guys look at my setup and tell me what you think for a newbie? This will be my first real rc and am going to be mostly bashing.

Kit: Team Associated B4 Buggy
Reciever: Futaba 2PEKA R123F 2 S3003 78 75750
Pinion: Robinson Racing Pinion 48P 24T
Motor: Monster Horsepower Stock Pro Motor
Batteries: DuraTrax Piranha 1800mAh 6 Cell Flat Standard (3 of them)
Speed Control: DuraTrax Streak Forward/Break Hi-Frequency ESC J
Charger: MRC Super Brain
Hobbico Soldering Iron 60 watt (although I'm not exactly sure what I will need this for...:confused: )
Someone said I needed Deans plugs... but I'm not sure what they were talking about (as I said this is all completely new to me)
I'm also buying Pro-line road hawg tires so that I can run my b4 on the road without wearing out the nice m3's that come with it for offroading.

Any comments would be helpful!

[kilrbzz]

Sounds great Lava!
I would go for a smaller pinion or you will blow your motor after one run. That Monster Stock is a high RPM motor! They say gear it one tooth smaller than the GM3 which I gear at 20-21 in my B4. So I would say 19-20 but theres bound to be someone here running one so maybe they can chime in on the pinion.
Ride height go with arms level to start and you might want to raise it abit for bashing.
The deans plugs are connectors like the white Tamiya plugs your stuff comes with. Deans will increase efficiency, prevent you from plugging anything in backwards and last forever.

Henry, The B4 is fine for bashing but it is truly a pure-bread race vehicle. I would suggest a T3 or another truck.

[LavaPunk]

kilrbzz: So then, you are saying I should go for some deans plugs? Can you give me a link to tower with exactly what I need by chance? Thanks for the comments, will see what else people say about the pinion before changing, but will look into it.

[kilrbzz]

Eventually you will probably melt the stock plugs, so yes get the deans plugs. You can use your new soldering iron on it! Here's a link to deans plugs at tower and a link on how to solder them.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=7

http://www.balakracing.com/soldering.htm

As for the pinion, have you run it yet? If you do I highly suggest you stop and check the motor after each minute and see if its over heating the monster. If you can't keep your finger on it more than three seconds your frying it. And if you smell peanut butter its cooked!

[LavaPunk]

Nope havn't even ordered it yet. Am checking everything many times over to make sure I have everything and it is a good setup. This is still planning stages.... Guess I will go with the deans plugs then too. Thanks

[k_sw31]

If you have not ordered the MRC super brain yet, I highly suggest you get a different charger. This charger has a great tendency to over heat and false peak (not charging the battery all the way), I would suggest you either buy a new dynamite prophet charger or go for a super nice charger, such as the reedy quasar pro, an integy or a novak.

I would also suggest you get a high capacity pack or two. Although you will get decent runtimes with the 1800s, its always better to have the longer run times and lower IRs of GP 3300s. :)

BTW, I would suggest the Pro-Match 3300s from www.promatchracing.com

[LavaPunk]

Tower doesn't seem to be selling the dynamite and the others are just sooo expensive for a newbie. And the batteries, for a newbie, are just out of my price range. I'd end up buying only one 3300 (or even 3000)

[LavaPunk]

kilrbzz: Do I need deans plugs for each battery pack I buy?

[k_sw31]

You will need a female deans for each battery pack, and a male connector for the esc.

[speedydave]

And one(or an adapter) for the charger.

[LavaPunk]

So with 4 batteries that's 5 female one male plug correct?

[k_sw31]

That should be good, I think you only need four though, but its always good to have extras...:)

What you should probably just do is buy one pack with a male and female, and then buy a female bulk pack (contains four females).

EDIT, You will also need another male plug for the charger.

[LavaPunk]

So... since I just must have these Deans plugs I need 2 male plugs and 4 female plugs (one for each battery) correct. And these are definetly needed for a newbie?

[k_sw31]

They are not a definate need, but in the long run you will be much better off. Soldering your first few will build much needed soldering skills, plus eventually the tamiya plugs will get brownish and not perform to well. The deans plugs will stick around forever, plus they have much lower resistence, equaling more punch. :)

[CHEVYMAN07]

Hey B4 owners. Hows the b4 doing for yall? I ask because I recently took my t-maxx to the track and it wasnt running right but the electric guys just kept going and going one battery after the other, so I figured that if I want to get into racing that electric is the only way to have fun without frustration, unless you have years of nitro experience which I dont. So how is the b4 at the track, and how does it fair bashing? Thanks again

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by CHEVYMAN07
Hey B4 owners. Hows the b4 doing for yall? I ask because I recently took my t-maxx to the track and it wasnt running right but the electric guys just kept going and going one battery after the other, so I figured that if I want to get into racing that electric is the only way to have fun without frustration, unless you have years of nitro experience which I dont. So how is the b4 at the track, and how does it fair bashing? Thanks again
From what i hear from the local drivers the B4 is awesome on the track....and that was coming from losi fanboys.

I got into nitro about 4 years ago but changed to electric when i started racing. I would keep the t-maxx to bash around with, racing buggies/trucks arent much fun to take offroading. IMO

[LavaPunk]

k_sw31: Ok I am getting a 4 pack of female plugs, and 2 packs of the double packs

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=7

Will this solder be perfect for what I'm doing or should I just pick some up at the local hardware store/lhs?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX34&P=M

Thanks for all the help, hoping to order this weekend, am very excited!

[LavaPunk]

k_sw31: Ok I am getting a 4 pack of female plugs, and 2 packs of the double packs

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=7

Will this solder be perfect for what I'm doing or should I just pick some up at the local hardware store/lhs?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX34&P=M

Thanks for all the help, hoping to order this weekend, am very excited!

[k_sw31]

Lavapunk, Sounds good. :)

That solder should work great since deans specifically made it for rc solder jobs. :)

[kenfuji]

b4 isn't really a bashing type of car. it's a finely tune rc race car imho. the car handles unbelievely. i can squeeze in an extra lap on the 5 min main and it's not even close to being dailed for my track yet. it takes the whoops soooo much smoother then my b3 ever did and the transmission is so smoother. all you hear are the tries. i haven't gotten my fastest lap time yet but it so consistant it's only time that i will start to keep up with the local A-main guys. I feel driving a b3 for the past 3 month instead of jumping right into the b4 defiently made me a much better driver as well.


one thing you should definetly get is the front alu brace from AE or trinity. to avoid breakage of your bulkhead. there are some chassis beakage issues, but i'm not too concerned about that. since AE should be making a update to it.

also my B4 came i with the new proline velocity Wheels too!! an update wing mount!!!

[Hobbytown Racer]

I ran mine a few days ago for the first time and it is broken up pretty bad. I did wreck alot and thought the towers would have broke before the chassis would. When I get a digital camera, I'll post pics. It's cracked top to bottom, were the posts on the chassis are. At the screw hole nearest to the front or the front hole that the rear chassis brace screws to.



I think they should re-design the rear brace so it has 3 screws holding it onto the chassis on each side. I know there's 3 screws holding it together on each side but only 2, screw into the chassis. I think it should be reinforced all the way up to the first web were the speedo would be. If you look were the 2 screws go on the top part of the chassis, their only far enough in to hold onto the chassis ends. If they had 2 more screws holding it on each side, it wouldn't crack were the chassis plate screws on. I'd much rather have the chassis a tiny bit more heavy with the added material, then have to replace it all the time.

I'm sending the chassis into AE for evaluation and maybe they'll replace it. :)

[Lapster]

I just got some Reedy Xcell 3300 batteries..... and I used probar 2. The battery is too wide. What should I do? I took all of the solder off and it still is too wide.

[Lapster]

I just got some Reedy Xcell 3300 batteries..... and I used probar 2. The battery is too wide. What should I do? I took all of the solder off and it still is too wide.

[Twist 2 Go]

I'm using Trinity 3300's with deans probar 2 bars and the fit is snug from side to side. No extra movement whatsoever. I don't know if this will be a problem or not as I'm hearing the above mentioned chassis crack is coming from the batteries moving around alot while racing. Time will tell!

[kilrbzz]

Actually the cracks are due to chassis flex and not the battery moving around. If you were to grab both ends of your chassis and try to "flex" it you could see what I mean. By having the front kickup molded to the chassis it now absorbs all the impacts at equal force. The major strain is from lawn darting which happens to the best of drivers occasionally. I re-enforced the battery well with epoxy on each corner and around the screws into the back brace. I run the battery in the middle (split spacer) and put in some B3 sidewell foam along the bottom of the well. Haven't had any problems since.

[litegide]

Hi, I while back I read a post about when a screw is stripped into the plactic there are several solutions - one of which I thought was super glue???

Anyway the part I'm specifically talking about is the chrome ball with the threaded end (the one where the shaft and cap snap on over the top.

Sorry I don't know the name (I don't have ny book w/me...:confused:)

The chrome colored ball is the one that screws into the rear shock tower of the B4 that has two small washers on it - it's all wobbly and loose, just spins in the plastic - must be stripped...)

Does any of you guys recall how to fix it, short of installing a larger size screw?

Thank you,

Phil

[k_sw31]

What you are talking about is the ball stud, something similar happend to me. The fix is simple, just pull the ball stud out, put a little super glue on the threads and thread it lightly back in untill it bottoms out. Now just wait a little bit and you should be as good as new. :D

[litegide]

I'll do it now - Thank you

Phil :)

[litegide]

k_sw31 or anyone who know's the rc cars more than I do - maybe you can help me.

Our B4 got into another bad crash so this time the top shaft on the transmission had to be replaced.

Anyway, the change out is going good - however I 've read that's always good to clean and or check the motor out.

Since it's out I opened it up. The motor is a Speed Gem Cryptonite 9- Turn double - it runs really well, although with about 8 packs through it, thought it might be wise...

It's apart is there something I should be looking for or sand the brushes with? I do have some of the Tower Hobbies Duratrax speed hot or motor shot (whatever that spray is called)

Looks pretty clean - should I spray it inside anyway
:rolleyes:

Thanks,

Phil

[gubby]

i would. its not required, but cleaning the motor with motor spray can get rid of particles(brush shavings, etc) that slow the motor down. cleaning it every now and then helps a lot.

example: i had had my p2k in my ruslter for about a year and a half and i was bored so i pulled the motor apart and cleaned it out; it seemed as good as new! it had awhole lot of new torque and rpm. so, yes, its wise to clean your motor

[k_sw31]

You might as well pull out the motor and take a look at it. If you have a comm stick, pull the brushes off and swipe the comm. with that, and rub the brushes with a pencil eraser to de glaze them. The, spray out hte whole motor until the run off appears clear. Reinstall it and you should be good to go!

PS, I am very curious of how you broke your top shaft, please tell!

[litegide]

Me and my son were out in the street bashing around, it was not quite a head on because I tried to get out of his way! He hit me w/his Evader!

He clipped it pretty hard from the side - it ran but sounded like a playing card against a bicycle spoke :eek:

I pulled it apart trying to figure out if I broke a gear in the trans or what, turned out the top shaft was bent! He must have got me just right to bend the shaft.

The noise was the rubbing on the plastic cover .

Thanks for the help on the motor - so I just shoot and soak the whole thing with this motor spray?

Phil

[k_sw31]

Specifically use the straw to shoot it into the area where the brushes contact the commutator.

That is certainly one of the more interesting breaks you will every see!

[litegide]

Hey , I noticed a small fiber thin washer - (made from some materials similar to like a circiut board) This washer fell out of the face of the motor after I had it apart.

I'm guessing it was behind the brushes and acts as a gasket. I'm not 100% of what I'm thinking here...

Does this sound right?

Phil

[gubby]

double post

[gubby]

this is a rough sketch of what the your motor looks like(i'm no artist...heheh) the washer slides over one of the shafts(do you know which side it fell off of? the shorter shaft faces up in the motor can; i think, but am not positve, that the washer came off the top) hope that helps!:)

[k_sw31]

Gubby's drawing is correct. That is a teflon washer, it goes on the end of the comm. to keep the segments from shorting out, so you definatly need it.

[TPhalen]

On a note about the fiber washer, if there are any OTHER washers on that end of the motor still, make sure the fiber one goes on FIRST, then the remaining ones.

My guess is that if this one fell off, any other ones that might have been on there are off, too.

[litegide]

You know the drawing is different from my motor, basicallly the end bell as I think it's called pulled away from the motor exposing the sahft and the part of the shft that's thicker where the brushes rub against.

The fiber washer came from behind those brushes in the end bell piece.

I was able to minipulate the washer back inside behind those brushes. After I cleaned the motor with spray and rubbed the amature with an erasur I also did the best I could to get the brush ends clean.

I pryed open the brushes and was able to negotiate the amature back inbetween the brushes and carefully through the fiber washer to out the bell housing back -on.

I sure hope there was no more washers. Unfortunately I had a bunch of small washers on the table as I opened the motor. I'm pretty sure the only one was the fiber one.

Anyway, it's back together - I just need to run a pack through it to see if it works.

Thank you guys -

Phil

[k_sw31]

Oh, I get why it seems so odd now...

It appears as if you forgot to take the brush springs out to remove the brushes before you pulled then endbell off. That made it look like the washer was above the brushes.

I would suggest taking out the motor again, this time remember to pull those two mousetrap style springs off, and lightly pull the brushes out for inspection. next, put the washer back on the armature (BTW, that thick part of the armature is called the commutator), screw the endbell back on. Next, push the brushes back into their housing and reinstall the two springs.

You should be good to go!

[k_sw31]

Well here is an interesting equation...

A bunch of teenagers+a fast B4+some plywood+a bigass drop off = carnage!

Lol, it was interesting, we set up a plywood jump at the top of a 15 foot drop off, the first few landings were successful, but, heh, one wasn't. :p

[pudder]

Hmm, I can see you are taking great care of your B4 judging by all the rusted metal parts, and especially the bent CVD, that really shows care...

[k_sw31]

I do not see any rust, and, the bent cvd is to be expected from what I explained above. :p

[gubby]

hey, you only live once:p
i picked up some deans plugs today and everything went smoothly(i only have them on the motor, tomorrow is battery time) except my dad was busy so i had to have my mom act as my thrid hand:rolleyes:. note:you might want to wait for your dad in this situation.

she just doesnt understand exactly what to do and how to hold the wire over the plug. its fine though.

i think im gonna go charge some batteries and jump my b4 out on the sidewalk.:D

[k_sw31]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gubby
hey, you only live once:p
[/]

Too true. :)

[CHEVYMAN07]

Well I have finally made a decision on the b4. I plan to buy it:D and get the aggressor am radio. I also plan on getting a 11 turn double, probably a speed gem pro. I will be bashing and club racing and hope to have a blast. What run time should I be expecting to get with the 11 turn and a 2400 pack? I was thinking 7 minutes? Any ideas? Thanks again

[G24racer]

Its a shame what people do to thier RC cars. People should have to take a IQ test before they are allowed to buy anything RC. There are people out there that don't have enough money to buy a RC car and when they can get one they take great care of their stuff and respect their equipment. Then there are others who just waste money by junking all the stuff they own. I know it doesn't stop at RC stuff either. In the big picture, I don't really care what stupid people do to their stuff. It's just a shame though!!

Go ahead...start rippin'

[k_sw31]

Well, it really depends on peoples view on rc. My view is to just have fun, now I do agree that it was sorta stupid, but, am I harming anyone? Obviously I am going to fix it with my cash, I take the time to build every thing so I know the consequences of breaking it.

And, yes it can just stop at rc. Its not like I'll be driving cars willy nilly into street signs, etc. I know people who drive with more caution with their rc cars rather than their real cars!

One thing that I do not understand is how you can look upon one stupid little thing with such disgust. You have to look at it in the big picture, and relize it is just a toy.

JMHO

PS, I think it is sort of funny that you spell "their" wrong and in the next sentence you mention an IQ test, lol.

Dont worry, j/k.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by G24racer
People should have to take a IQ test before they are allowed to buy anything RC.

That is possibly one of the stupidest things I have ever heard! :rolleyes:

[kilrbzz]

Chevy - yea that sounds about right but there are too many variables to be sure (esc,battery types,resistance,voltage draw,gearing,etc) If you have a decent esc, batteries, and plugs you should make 5-6 minute heats without a problem. Also think about shelling out the extra $ for a FM radio its worth the upgrade especially if racing.

Gubby - At least she made the effort! Try using some vice grips or go to Radioshck and get the third hand tool its worth it.

[litegide]

Chevy, I have the MX-3 for my T3 and B4, it's an awsome and neat radio for 104.00 it comes with an 80.00 receiver, a heavy duty servo, everything you need except the esc - not to mention spend another 10.00 to qualify for the tower hobby 10.00 or 15.00 discout - not sure how much it is at the momnet but it's always available.


G24 Racer- might you happen to be a Gordon fan :cool: He's gonna rock today! Hey no need to say hurtful things :) KSW_31 has been very helpful to everbody on the forum including me when buying and setting up the B4. Your point is understood and a good one but heck it's his car "he built it" so it's not like he bought a rtr and trashes it, when you build it and you're rough on your stuff you know the consequeces. The dirty B4 was worse last week, you should go back a few pages ;) but promise not to freak out - it's bad alright! I believe what counts is that he's having fun and that's what the hobby is all about. In your defense - my friends used to make fun of me because I cleaned the head on my Yamaha YZ 80 with a Q-tip!

Phil

[gubby]

*grumble**grumble*

my dads friend is getting married today and we went to the church yesterday for rehearsal, and my dad told me to "take the b4 to mess around with beause youre not part of the rehearsal."

i did and we got into the parking lot and there was theis big hump thing for an electrical outlet or something. i got really ready to jump the b4 off of it and guess wat happened...i reached for my radio, and i had forgotten it!:eek: so i was forced to not use my b4. then later on i saw some bikers jumping off of the hump and i was thinking how much faster and higher my b4 could jump than them off of it:( anyways, today is the actual wedding and my mom wants to go early so we have a seat so im gonna take my b4 with...and a radio. :p lol

[drumr racer]

Does anyone know this, I need 2 tighten my diff, and I guess i put it in wrong, which allen wrench works on it? .050", 1/16", 3/32", or 5/64".

[k_sw31]

Well, I use the orange handled rpm wrench, which I believe is a 1.5 mm.

I think the conversion should come out to 5/64 or so, that should be it.

[k_sw31]

My mistake, it is a 2 mm wrench. But, it comes out to be 5/64 anyways. :)

[chevyman007]

Hey everybody, this is chevyman07, I had to change my name again because it wouldnt let me post. Anyways. I have a tekin rebel, tamiya plugs, ballistic battery 2400 packs, and thats about it.

[chevyman007]

How many people in here bash and race their B4? I know the B4 is a pure racing machine but how does it hold in the bashing area?

[dog8spam]

Is there anything that can replace those stupid little screws that hold on the hindgepins?

[gubby]

whats wrong with those screws? if they are falling out, use threadlock(i heard it doesnt work with plastic?) or ca on the threads.

oh, and i bash my b4 all the time. i wont have much oppurtunity to go to the track for...about 3 days! school is out and my friends mom can take my friend and i on her way to work:D

mine works good for bashing, except it gets stuck in my neighbors long grass.

[mtn bkr]

Here's a picture of my B4. It has a Novak Cyclone ESC and XXL receiver, JR 4750 servo, and a Birdman P2k2 motor. I've had some decent results so far, but nothing great since I've had some rear traction issues. I actually had faster times with my old B3 since I had it hooked up pretty well. Oh well, I'll get my B4 there evenually.

http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL36/886667/1831661/27008792.jpg

[DLF]

Yea, those hinge pin screws are a pain. The main problem is they strip too easily. Some stainless steel screws or at least some higher grade screws would be much better.

[gubby]

you dont have to tighten the hinge pin screws very much, just until they boittom out on the arm. they are there so the hinge pin doesnt fall out...

[DLF]

How much you tighten them is irrelevant. Any hex head screw of that size should be of a high grade steel or they will strip. For one thing, don't use the allen wrench that came with the kit. It is not of high grade materiel either. After a single slip, the wrench strips the screws.

[pudder]

Also, those cheap little allen keys tend to strip themselves too. It is best to invest in a set of good hex drivers. There are many companies who make quality sets if you dont have any already. I have yet to have a major problem with any hex screws.

[DLF]

I agree, Pudder. The main problem I have with those set screws is they seem too shallow for the grade they are. I actually had one that was so shallow that I couldn't use it. I'm sure that once the arms are threaded a few times, those screws may work ok. But for the first time, they were a problem for me.

[pudder]

Yes, I concur. I have had the same problem on one or screws in my time. Not many, but I have had a few seem quite shallow, I think I have maybe stripped one or two screws since I got my good hex driver set though, and those were shallow aluminum ones that I wrenched on. :rolleyes:

[k_sw31]

Heh, pudder, I dont beleive you have delt with these little screws yet. They are tiny .05" hex b.h. screws that are a pain the the as$ to deal with. :p

The are very annoying, but I did not have a problem with them stripping even with the kit allen keys.

[chevyman007]

Yea, well if there is a place where the B4 cant go I will just get my e-maxx on it;)
I have a question though, some people are not recommending a 11 turn motor for bashing so I need a good fast motor for bashing to atleast get me to 30. How fast do those stock motors go? How about the chameleon 2? Less maintenence? I no it will give me longer run time to.

[kilrbzz]

Chevy if your bashing and want low motor maintenance go with a mild Mod. I would go with a 17 turn mod. I heard the chamelon 2 is good but haven't ran it. Reedy makes the best mods IMO but since your bashing I would go something more reasonable $ wise. Speed Gems are a good value. If you go with the 11t motor you will need to rebuild it at least every 5-6 runs which means access to a lathe also. You can also put brushes on that are more friendly to the comm (Reedy 766) and will wear better and extend motor life. Even a 19t spec motor would work well here. oh yeah, and E-Maxx' rock!

[chevyman007]

Da** straight:D

[drumr racer]

I got a brand new LRP Quantum super sport off of Ebay just now!!!!!!!!!!
NOW I can literally run my b4, but one problem... no working motor... dun dun duhhhh

[Marciano1969]

What are most of you running for hop-ups, are there any parts to look out for on this buggy, I think I have found out about the front hinge pin holder, do you need to get the bulkhead or any more parts.

[drumr racer]

Marciano: The only things I'd get would be titanium front inner hinge pins, and carbon a-arms. The rest would be eye candy.

[k_sw31]

The only hopups I am getting/have got is the front bulkhead brace, ti turnbuckles, and possibly some ti hingepins. :)

[drumr racer]

The stock steel turnbuckles have never let me down
has anyone broken one or some?

[gubby]

i bent my steel turnbuckles many times. i had to use the rod straighteners in our vice(sp?) to straighten them. i upgraded to some lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins as well...no more problems!

[tallyrc]

had my b3 for years, never bent a thing. had my b4 for a month, first thing to break...... rear arm and bent hingepin...

[drumr racer]

Hey Tallyrc,
How did you break your rear a-arm.
Don't you think that it's cool that a t4 truck is coming out, It looks like you can convert b4 to t4, just the chassis is different.

[tallyrc]

just clipped a 90 bend of the pvc with the rear end. didn't look bad when i did it, but what a nightmare. when the pin gets bent, you can't remove it easily, either cut the bend off, or try straightening it. either way, you need to disassemble the whole rear end to work on it. no biggie, i still love the car and am very interested in the truck. i have never had a truck before (i have a GT). it will have to wait till lafter my little project i have going.

[Marciano1969]

Was able to race my b4 last night for the first time car handles great, very easy to drive you can tell when the rear end is going to break lose. I also run 4wd drive buggy and the b4 seems able to handle on the same level, can't wait till next weekend

[therealdanimal]

I bash too... at the race track!!!
I also broke my rear arm, I had an armfull of rc cars after a weekend of racing and it fell of the top as I was opening the door to my full-sized car.

[pudder]

Originally posted by drumr racer
Don't you think that it's cool that a t4 truck is coming out, It looks like you can convert b4 to t4, just the chassis is different.

If anyone is thinking about converting their B4 into a T4, don't bother. After all expenses for parts and stuff, it is better off just buying the T4 itself. Plus, if you convert one, then you can't have a T4 AND a separate B4 around, you will have to change back all the time. This is why I bought a used FT B3 instead of converting my T3.

Usually, to do a conversion like that you need:
-a-arms
-cvd's
-shock towers
-body posts-
-complete shocks and springs
-chassis
-tierods
-tires, rims
-body
-body posts

Just my opinion. :)

[k_sw31]

I agree with pudder, by the time you have spent all the money on everything, you are better off just having two seperate cars, plus you'll have a lot less wrenching that way. :)

[chevyman007]

Well I have decided to buy a B4 and I am going to order it sometime this week. I am also purchasing a MX-3 radio, speed gem pro 15 turn and a revenge of monster stock, and I already have a tekin rebel esc and plan to buy some deans connectors. I cant wait to go bash and race the B4!:D

[drumr racer]

Originally posted by chevyman007
Well I have decided to buy a B4 and I am going to order it sometime this week. I am also purchasing a MX-3 radio, speed gem pro 15 turn and a revenge of monster stock, and I already have a tekin rebel esc and plan to buy some deans connectors. I cant wait to go bash and race the B4!:D
I wouldn't go bashing with my b4, It gets highcentered on practically a 1-inh around rock!
If you wanna bash, save time and effort, and start building dirt jumps, sweep a path between them, and really pack the jumps down.

[Lapster]

haha, I broke the bulkhead on my b4 again. So I got the aluminum bulkhead and aluminum bulkhead brace. I hope it doesnt break again. What do u think?

[Twist 2 Go]

Probably overkill replacing both pieces w/ aluminum. But it sure adds bling bling.........

[pudder]

The bulkhead brace would probably been enough from what people are saying.

[Lapster]

Yep... the bling bling factor was what I was also after. I cant wiat to see my new ride in Bling form.:p

[LavaPunk]

Got my B4 today! Have to wait until the weekend to start building, but can hardly wait! Thanks for all the help with my setup a while back all. Here's what I finally went with:

Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro Motor
DuraTrax Piranha AC/DC Digital Peak Charger NiCd/NiMH
Robinson Racing Pinion Gear 48P 24T
DuraTrax Streak Forward/Brake Hi-Frequency ESC J
Peak Performance Power-Maxx 2400mAh (2)
2PEKA R123F 2 S3003 80 75790
Deans connecters
Pro-line Road Hawgs so I can run it on the street
And a 60 watt soldering iron + solder (found out I didn't have a soldering iron! :eek: )

Thanks for all the help.

[Hobbytown Racer]

Pic of my B4 ready to race at the Mod Nat's. :)

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/Photoloft/Asset21/2003/06/18/10765/10765935_0_8830.fpx,0,0,1,1,1024,768,FFFFFF

[LavaPunk]

Lovely paintjob! I like it much better than flames.

[Hobbytown Racer]

Lava, thanks. It looks better in person. :) It's my first attempt at drips/splashes. Everything was hand cut with sissors. ;)

[Lapster]

I like drips too.

[drumr racer]

Those trinity parts look phat

[pudder]

Originally posted by Lapster
I like drips too.

I like beer!

[Lapster]

I dont like beer yet.. I am only 14.

O yea... I took pix of my B4 today.... I will format them tonight and get them to you guys tomorrow as soon as I can.

[pudder]

I'm 15 and a half. :rolleyes:

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Lapster
I dont like beer yet.. I am only 14.

Yet? What age are you going to start liking it? :rolleyes:

[DLF]

Since you guys were posting pics, figured I would too. :D

[Lapster]

That is kind of retarted.... what is good about drinking beer when your 15?

[Twist 2 Go]

DLF-
Is that a SCORE decal from Savannah? Is that your local track? A friend and I used to travel and race there in the early 90's for all the big, regional races as well as the truck nats in 92. Awesome facility.