Team Associated B4 buggy forum v2.0

[DLF]

Yep..that's SCORE. I've been in this club since 89. It is a great facility. We've been having a few problems the last few but are currently trying to straighten them out.

[chevyman007]

Just ordered my b4. I also purchased a mx-3, and monster stock. It will get here probably thrusday. Cant wait:D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Lapster
That is kind of retarted

:rolleyes:

[chevyman007]

What is good drinking beer period?

[chevyman007]

Woops i meant what is good about drinking beer anyway

[k_sw31]

It tastes good, plus there is way less sugar than regular sodas.

[k_sw31]

The real question is what is so bad about beer as long as it is drank in moderation, and the person who's drinking knows how much they can take.

[pudder]

And it gets all the bad things out of your system because you piss so much when drinking it. :P

[Lapster]

It is ok if you dont drink a lot. But what is the point of putting crap into your body?

[RokleM]

Originally posted by Lapster
But what is the point of putting crap into your body?

Better yet, what's the point of polluting this thread with all this crap?

-RokleM

[chevyman007]

Yea lets get back to the B4. Should I put 40wt in the rear? And any building tips?

[Lapster]

I put 40wt all around to start off. I switched to 50wt in the back at my track. It worked better. All with the stock springs.

[Lapster]

My b4 that I have had for a while... but I was too lazy to get pics.

[Lapster]

The inside...

[Lapster]

Ill format my jumping pics later. I am lazy.

[LavaPunk]

OK I've been building my B4 and have a question. In step C16 you put the slipper pads in. How tight is the fit? I can get them in but they don't stay in. While it seems that this is how it's supposed to be it just seems odd to have them fall off (guess that's why you put on the plates next).... Is this the correct fit?

Also does a bulkhead brace = hinge pin brace? That's all my lhs had and on thinking about it I'm pretty sure it's the same thing, but just want to check.

I'm a newbie what can I say... :rolleyes: Took my an hour and a half to do the diff + tranny last night. But it seemed easy the whole time :) Can't wait to finish it up though! Looks so fun, plus the local school is being redone and is all torn up... looks perfect :)

[Lapster]

Yes... the bulkhead brace and hingepin brace are the same... as long as they are bot for the front. I have an aluminum front bulkhead and aluminum front bulkhead brace.

The slipper pads should be like that.. mine were... once you tighten the slipper down they will sompree into the spur where they are supposed to go. Just lick your finger and put it in the pad... so it wil stick until you can get the plate on.

[LavaPunk]

Ok thanks much Lapster just wanted to check, better safe than sorry after all :)

BTW nice buggy

[Lapster]

haha.. thanks. The aluminum brace and/or bulkhead is a good idea. I have broken my plastic bulkhead twice. So i got the aluminum brace and bulkhead.

[gubby]

yeah, you need an aluminum brace up front. i did run my b4 w/o one for about 3 weeks and never had a problem, but once one was made available, i got it.

[Lapster]

What do you guys think about my car. I am only 14 so it might not be the best best. But I get by.

I have a

C2
Fantom team stock
hitec 605 bb
jr xs3 radio and reciever
reedy x cell 3300's and peak 2400's


The body is supposed to look like that. Where you acn see some of the green under it. It looks a lot better in person. I looks as if it has texture.

Tell me whaddya think!!

[pudder]

Sounds like a pretty good setup. I like the body too. It is very unique.

[Lapster]

HAHA... i used cans.

[k_sw31]

How'd you do that texture anyways?

Did you put a light coat or two of yellow and just back it with that blue?

[Lapster]

I took my can of yellow.... then some pearl white... which was basically clear and my blue.

I put the pearlwhte on the whole body except for the bottom part. The put blue on after about 2 mnutes. So it left some uncovered spots. Cause the pearl was still wet. I let it dry... then put yellow over the whole thing.

[gubby]

well, heres my b4 setup...tell me what you think....(if lapster does one, i might as well too:D )

1.novak fusion esc
2.novak xxl receiver
3.standard airtronics servo(im gonna upgrade sometime, no need yet)
4.soon to be a D5 14 turn(was thinking about the reedy KR, but d5 sounds like a better deal)
5.deans plugs


oh yeah, and im only 14 too. not bad, i think. the car runs well, and hsnt given me much trouble(except i never could tell if the diff was set right, so i was always messing with it, but now i am pretty sure its set just right)

[Lapster]

Sweet setup... I had a xxl in mine until I got my XS3. Which is like a week after I had my car.

A yea... does anyone know if Novak makes a 75 mhz xxtra synthesized. I have looked... but cant find it. If there is one... can you tell me where to get it.

[gubby]

here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWL88&P=7) is a 75mHZ version...they only have FM, hope thats what you wanted...

[speedydave]

What do you guys recommend as far as hopups go? I've got plenty of racing experience, so don't give me the "You don't need hopups, just get the right tires and practice" line. ;) Just looking for anything that makes a noticable difference in performance, or anything that's needed as far as durability goes. So far it sounds like I'll need the front hinge pin brace and some Ti turnbuckles. Anything else? Also, I used to have a Cyclone Updated, but stupidly sold it. I'm looking into the GT7, but it's damn expensive. Anyone have an ESC suggestion that can handle any motor(or like down to 8T or whatever, I don't plan on going below 11T, but just to be safe, gotta have a buffer) that's around or below $120 that comfortably fits the chassis? Also, I've been out of the electric loop for a while, so I've been kinda vaguely following the battery wars going on. Are my Panasonic Stock Metal Hydrides still competitive? Thanks!

[k_sw31]

Well I have been using my Novak Dually for awhile, only 90$, I have taken it down to 11 turns but it did not have a problem. It doesn't have all the fancy programming stuff that the GT7s and the C2s have, but it works just fine for my purposes (club racing and bashing). Or if you want, I am sure you can find tons of good deals on the C2s now that the GT7 is out...best check out on ebay...:)

As far as hopups go, there is really not much you need. The Al hingepin brace and Ti turnbuckles are pretty much all you need, but any RPM parts are usually good, such as the spring retainers, and I would say definatly pickup a gear cover from them, the ones for the B3/T3 fit just fine. :) Otherwise, just get racing, see what breaks and make the decision of what you need from there. :)

With batteries the best in terms of capacity and IRs are the new GP3300s. But, the Sanyo 3000 hvs and the other top of the line 3000s are just as good as they used to be, so if your doing club racing you are fine. :)

[speedydave]

Awesome. I used to run a Dually in my T3, and my B3 had the Cyclone, but considering the Dually was a close fit in the T3, I figured it might not even fit in the B4. It's definitely a nice ESC for the money though. :)

[k_sw31]

Yeah, my dually's heatsinks just touch the body above it, and just fits on the side, its pretty much one of the biggest escs you can get in the B4...:p

[speedydave]

Awesome. I'm tempted to go for a GT7, but it's just so expensive...I remember how nice my Dually was. Too bad it really can't be run without the heatsinks. :(

[Lapster]

If you still want heat sinks you can either....

1) Cut a small hole in the body... and allow for a lot of cooling.

or

2) Get a dremel and shave down one of the heatsink sides.

I personally didnt run heatsinks when I had a dually in my XX. I loved that speed control. But some little moron down the street stepped on my car and smashed it.

But have you also looked at the LRp sports? Those are also competitive esc's. And they are smaller than the dualy. And also GM is very good. I love My V12. I would reccomend that.... except it is $150. So the V6... LRP sports.... or the dually will be great. O yea... what do you guys think about the intellispeed for him. (or whatever their intelli-names are.):p


Thanks for the reciever. I just couldnt find it... :confused: .... and yes..... i was looking for FM.. I am using an xs3. The reciever suplied with the xs3 is a little big. I might get one or 2 of those. One for my B4 and one for my xxx-s.

[adam lancia]

not trying to set up a flame here but i've had a little bad luck with both the GT7 and the LRP sports esc's. i run stock class and had the IPC pro sport esc in my T3...i blew the brake fet on the 8th battery pack. i sent it in, they sent me a new replacement and the guy i sold it to blew the brakes in 12 packs. needless to say, i'm avoiding them now. i also blew the GT7's brakes in a matter of a week. there is another guy at my track that has had this same problem with all 3 of his GT7's. i'm not sure if it's the stock motors that are putting so much strain on the brake circuitry but it seems that the IPC 7.1 and the C2 are still the most bullet proof esc's out there. i have one of each and they are still going great. i think ultimate hobbies has the 7.1 for $120 and you can get a C2 on ebay for pretty cheap. hope this helps,

adam

[kilrbzz]

Adam - That's pretty wild. Everyone you blew the brakes on? Strange. Did they replace all of them?

I can vouch for the GT7, the C2, the SR -superrooster.
All great esc's. with great customer service. Only thing I've had a problem with was the side mounted switch, GT7 (I broke it) they sent me replacement free.

I've heard nothing but good stuff from LRP also. I just happened to have started with a Novak and they've been great.

[LavaPunk]

Sorry for the newb question here but, where exactly do I mount the hinge pin brace at? Yes I know on the bulkhead but which set of screws and which was is up? Im assuming the flat side is down and the side with the lip is up? Thanks

[gubby]

the screws are the really small ones, the driver size for them is .05 (the smallest size in the kit) and on the hinge pin brace, which one are you using? for the AE aluminum brace(and stock brace), the long flat side is in front.
see the picture:
in it, the braces are shown from looking at the front-top view while they are on their side. the left side of the pic is the front, right side is the back.

[LavaPunk]

Thanks gubby! It's on and looking good. Blue sure does look nice :)

[pudder]

That is an amazing picture!

[gubby]

Originally posted by pudder
That is an amazing picture!


err....yeeeeaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh...

lol i end up making a pic on paint a lot of time to help people....its just easier to explain witha drawing than ramble on with words sometimes...if you look back in older pages i think i have 1 or 2 drawings in there...:D

oh yeah...the pictue was clear too..but then i was cropping it so i could post it, and i accidently did a resize...and boom, it screwed up the clarity. oh well, it gets the job done;)

[gubby]

Originally posted by LavaPunk
Thanks gubby! It's on and looking good. Blue sure does look nice :)


and in pudder's words...blue is the fastest color!(or something like that)

[drumr racer]

This is my setup:
Stock setup,
Aluminum hinge-pin brace,
Titanium front-inner hinge pins,
Hitec 625 super speed servo,
XS3 radio system,
LRP Super Sport,
Battery- buying stage,
motor-buying stage,
Tires- front;stock rear;proline bow-ties

[drumr racer]

I think that ohh, I got this and that, and I'm only 14 has nothing 2 do with anything, what you really should say is, I bought all of this stuff by myself, and I'm only fourteen, there is no shame in that, but there is shame in "... and I am only fourteen, did I or did I not do good huh." and you had your parents buy it for you, what's the point if you put no effort to it?
By the way, I'm fourteen, and I bought that stuff up there,:rolleyes:, with my own money, washing dishes in a resteeeraunt!! Aren't I great! :D

[Lapster]

Who said I didnt buy my stuff?:confused: :rolleyes:

[adam lancia]

play nice boys.......:rolleyes: :)

[chevyman007]

I need help building my diff. I lost a ball in the diff so there is only 11 balls. And the thrust bolt wont go into the white thing with dog ears. I cant get it to screw in. SOmeone help

[kilrbzz]

Is the screw stripped, the plastic nut stripped? You can get a Diff bolt and T-nut for a couple bucks if so.

#6575 is the part number but I would double check the diff bolt to see if its the same size. But it is listed on the B4 parts list so it should be the same.

Loosing one ball shouldn't kill ya but I would replace them with some carbide balls when possible (smoother and long wearing)

If thats not the problem I would start over double checking the directions.

[chevyman007]

I dont think the thrust bolt is stripped but I dont cant tell if the plastic nut is stripped, how do you tell

[gubby]

hey, i bought all my stuff too. it took a lot of work, but im very happy with how i did:)

[gubby]

look at the bolt and see if it has threads on it, if it doesn't, it's stripped. if it isn't stripped, pull the t nut out of the outdrive and try screwing the thrust bolt into it by its self. if you can, the t nut isnt stripped. when i was building that part, i noticed i had to put a lot of force on the t nut and then screw the bolt into it.

[adam lancia]

i think gubby has hit the nail on the head.....a tight t-nut is a good thing, it'll keep the diff set longer without backing off,

adam

[fountainhead]

Has anyone set their car up for on road action? I have a GT and was able to make quite a road racer out of it. I thought since I can lower it down quite a bit I might be able to make a good on road car.
Inline axles
Foam tires
ect.

any suggestions?

[drumr racer]

I don't know about foams, but you might have an easier time getting road hawgs!

[k_sw31]

Yeah, foams are generally for carpet racing, or extremly smooth and prepared asphault. Your best off with some road hawgs and road rages, lowering the whole thing and you should be good to go...for the most part. :)

[chevyman007]

Well thanks for everybodys help. I got a new thrust bolt and t-nut and was good to go, after that it went together nicely. I took it to the track today with a couple of friends and man was it awesome, I was clearing the triple, double, sweeps, everything looking like a pro (well to me I thought I looked like a pro) anyway, no one was on the off-road track but my friend had his nitro tc3 on the on road so I just took it on road. That was also awesome, I didnt flip it over once and took him in the corners but on those straights he would blow me away, so I would just run over the pvc:D
Anyway I had a great time with my b4 and plan on purchasing some dirt hawgs for the front and rears, and some road hawgs to. And again thanks for everybodys help.
One more question, which wheel do I grab when I adjust the diff? Thanks again

[gubby]

umm, the diff isnt externally adjustable...so you cant grab the wheel for adjustment. you have to pull the right cvd(the bone part) out of the outdrive and slip and allen wrench in the other outdrive to keep it from turning, then slip an allen wrench in the outdrive w/o the cvd in it, and tighten/loosen accordingly...

[chevyman007]

Thanks for the help everybody. Well today was my first race, and I think I placed 8th because of heating problems. Well my rebel was acting up I guess, it ran fine for the first 2 qualifiers but on the third it overheated I believe and shut down. It might just be a connection or something but I think it is time to get a new esc anyway. I am looking into the IPC super sport. It operates at 2300 htz, forward only, and can handle motors down to 12 turns. Is a 12 turn enough for a buggy? Thanks for everybodys help again.

[k_sw31]

I would recommend the Novak Dually.

No turn limit, and at 90$ it is a steal. :)

[kilrbzz]

Hey Chevy,

If your gonna upgrade your ESC look into LRP and Novak. I can vouch for Novak being a quality product and lots a guys say LRP is top notch also. They can accomidate most budgets and you won't be dissappointed.

As far as is a 12t enough for a buggy. Yes and no. Yes a 12t is pretty fast and rarely do you absolutely need more motor for a majority of tracks but No because you always need more speed! LOL Actually, if your gonna run 12-13 turn motors anyway why not get an unlimited ESC for added assurance? Just my two cents.

[chevyman007]

That is true. I guess I could get an unlimited one. Well what does everybody suggest me get for my B4?

[Lapster]

The novak dually is sweet for 90$.

[gubby]

i have a novak fusion in my b4, and the heatsinks on it get hot enough to burn your finger if you touch for one second. i have the venting holes cut out on the body, and yesterday i took a reamer and made them bigger for the esc. it didnt help much. does anyone have any ideas as to why it's running so hot? it has a 12 turn motor limit, and im running a 14 turn double, and the motor is very cool, it does'nt run hot at all. help please!:(

[RichieRich]

I have a Dually in my B3. Excellent ESC. It's a little bit on the large side with the heatsinks attached so you may have to be a bit creative when you install it.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by gubby
i have a novak fusion in my b4, and the heatsinks on it get hot enough to burn your finger if you touch for one second. i have the venting holes cut out on the body, and yesterday i took a reamer and made them bigger for the esc. it didnt help much. does anyone have any ideas as to why it's running so hot? it has a 12 turn motor limit, and im running a 14 turn double, and the motor is very cool, it does'nt run hot at all. help please!:(

I have been running a 14x1 d5 with my fusion. I do notice the heatsinks get really hot, but the actual esc is just warm. A good sign that the heatsinks are doing a good job. :)

[chevyman007]

Does anybody in here race their b4 with the novak ss? If you do, tell me if you look it and what about it you like.

[DLF]

I'm not sure how many of you guys actually race, but I have a question anyway. I ran my B4 this weekend and was very impressed. The track was very loomy and hooked up. However, even with that, the car seemed just a touch loose. Too much steering. Anyone else notice this? I can't help but wonder if the car will be unconrollable when the track gets dry and dusty.

I was thinking of changing the spacers in the rear hub to lengthen the wheellbase. This may help to take away some steering. Thoughts?

[pudder]

Might help... What tires are you running anyways? If you are running in loose **** you should try the Red Losi Step Pins They are a soft compound tire that I use at my track. I actually tried the silver (medium) tires and they hooked up good as well.

Usually the track I run at is really loose in the first and second qualifier and gets hard and dusty by the main or last qualifier.

I find I like the Losi Step pins better than the Pro-Line, if this is what kind of track you are running on, it should hep you out maybe.

BTW: I run a B3.

[DLF]

Step pins are the tire of choice for our track in that condition, which is what I was running. The front I was running usually work as well. I'm also used to the B3 which didn't have that much steering. Don't get me wrong, I like having the steering, but the car somtimes was on the edge of being squirrly. I'm just curious if people are finding that they too have to end up trying to get rid of some steering in the B4. I'm gunna wait I think and run the car in drier conditions and see what happens though.

[firebladerunner]

making the wheelebase longer will only add to your problem what I would suggest would be to add a washer under the rear ball stud or even raise the front ride height. in the back of the manual there is a small tuning guide that will tell you what most of the adjustments will do. plus what is your full setup front and rear

[pudder]

Oh, DLF, you could also turn down the servo endpoints on your radio, if your radio has that option.

[DLF]

My setup is the out-of-the-box setup. It's ok with that exception. Also, I agree with your other suggestions, Firebladrunner, however, lengthening the wheelbase from the rear forces the car to be less responsive. Doing so plants the weight more on top of the of the rear wheels to increase rear traction. That kind of suttle change is all I'm really looking for.

[firebladerunner]

go to a 1 piston in the rear and try silver springs in the front that is what I would try first. changing the wheelbase will take away rear traction I promise and probably add way more steering than what you would like, when you lengthen the wheelbase it shifts the weight more to the front of the car adding steering and taking away traction the cg of the car and its placement has more of an effect on the handling of the car than the wheelbase being longer or shorter by1/16 of an inch.

plus it has been my expeience with the car car that it becomes much more balanced on a high bite track with the stock setup it will actually push a little but is still quite responsive very easy to drive fast

[wrstl888]

i just bought my b4 and its all put together i dont know what u guys are waiten for but i already have got one... since june 29

[firebladerunner]

I have had mine since march 28th

[therealdanimal]

How's it goin'. I got my B4 at the April Fools race too. So, when's the big race up there so I can schedule some time off. Do you know when the Boise race is, I'm gonna try and make both. Digger wants to make both also. But he's an unemployed loser and probably can't afford to make both. HAHA!

[firebladerunner]

the race in boise is aug 2-3 and our race is sept. 13-14 both races should be good races I just hope I get a t4 in time for boise both tracks should take a similar setup and tires as we are both using the same stuff for traction on the track with our track being a little rougher and there track more on the groomed side with very high bite

[Hobbytown Racer]

I wonder how the B4 and T4 will work on this!!?? It will groove up better then this at the nat's. :D

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/Photoloft/Asset21/2003/06/30/10815/10815238_0_3389.fpx,0,0,1,1,1024,768,FFFFFF

Here's another pic of the track before the Pro Series race held last weekend.

http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?s=cano&src=/Photoloft/Asset21/2003/07/05/10834/10834048_0_2360.fpx,0,0,1,1,1024,768,FFFFFF

Note that I took the pic of the 8th scale on the outside of the track as you come onto the straight. You can see this in the pic, and my B4 coming through the doubles on the infield. :) Note the groove that developed by the end of the Pro Series race.


The ROAR Mod Nat's will be held here. http://www.tiltyard.com

[MachWon]

This may seem like a silly question but I can't find the answer anywhere... (board search/rc10.com etc)

What spur comes standard with the B4.. 81? None?

Mine will be here later this week and I need to order a variety.

Thx!

[RS4rally1124]

ok im getting a b4 now what are good bodies for it and who makes them also could someone give leads on parts that break easily because the lhs is faaaaar away. thanx and can i see sonme pics of your b4's

later

JT

[pudder]

As far as bodies go, I think the only company that makes bodies for the B4 is Pro-Line.

With parts breakage, I haven't heard much breaking besides the front hingepin brace and bulkhead. It would be a good idea to pick up atleast the Trinity Blue Aluminum front hingepin brace, and maybe the aluminum bulkhead.

Hope this helps.

[tallyrc]

i'm sure pudder meant hingepin brace. there is no kingpin brace as that is the part that runs through the caster block. and trinity now makes a body for the b4, but it is ugly as hell and makes it look like a xxx.

[pudder]

Oh, thanks man. Just woke up. :)

[k_sw31]

Yeah pudder, I know what you mean, I just woke up and its 12:20 now! :)



rs4rally- Really the only part that usually breaks on the B4 is the front bulkhead, a 4$ part. This usually breaks because the plastic hingepin brace is sorta weak, so you are best off getting the aluminum hingepin brace for either trinity or FT. :)

I have broken a few other parts but that was because of some stupid **** (on my part ;)).

For bodies I think the stock one looks really nice, I haven't seen the trinity body but it probably wont look to nice (IMO it seems all the reference series bodies look like craps).

[gubby]

Originally posted by MachWon
This may seem like a silly question but I can't find the answer anywhere... (board search/rc10.com etc)

What spur comes standard with the B4.. 81? None?

Mine will be here later this week and I need to order a variety.

Thx!


Yep, the 81 tooth spur is what it comes with

[pudder]

You should get a selection of pinion gears as well as some spurs. I don't really have a huge variation of them because I just change my pinions, but I do always have at least 2 extras for my racing vehicles, just incase I strip out. It is better to have more pinions because they are easier to change and you can usually keep your slipper setting good withougt having to re adjust.

[therealdanimal]

Thanks Macho. Can't wait, sounds like it's pretty hooked up then. I know just what tire combo will work then, 'cause I was hooked up in truck last year at Twin Falls!

[chevyman007]

First hop-ups today, bow ties with velocity wheels and dirt hawg front and rear tires on velocity wheels. Now I have to glue them. Oh well

[k_sw31]

I have glueing tires...the damn ca just seems to get on everything! :p Clothing, fingers, shoes, its annoying!

[RS4rally1124]

thjanx for the help
i also love the stock body i cant wait to pick up this body on sat. talk to ya later

JT

[MachWon]

Originally posted by gubby
Yep, the 81 tooth spur is what it comes with Thanks for the info. I guessed at that and went ahead and ordered an 84 and 87 since I plan to run modified. Got all the pinions I need.

BTW, Cars (I ordered three) got here yesterday!! Am building as we speak :D

[TallMouse]

well im going to be getting my b4 hopefully in a couple of days and was wondering what are some good hop ups to make it run faster cause most of the time i just run it around in a track out back of my friends place and want it to jump high and go fast heh. and also what motors and esc's and radio you recomend for it.:confused:

[drumr racer]

Yesterday I bought a bulkhead, front hinge pin brace, servo mounts, shock bushings, and Battery brace/ heatsink all in aluminum, and they are all from trinity.
I'm working on the trinity motor mount/ heatsink, and hopefully a b4 aluminum front a-arms set to have a bulletproof front end.
I hope to also get l/w aluminum slipper plates, l/w outdrives, Crescenzi Racing Pro Diff Rebuild kit, Threaded shock bodies, and Trinity shock collars with locking o-rings

[drumr racer]

I better start washing more dishes at a resturant.

[adam lancia]

i hope your bulletproof front end doesn't end up ripping the chassis in half.....all that aluminum will direct the force of any impact to the next weakest part. if that happens to be the chassis, things could get a lot more expensive. as for the diff rebuild kit, i would stick with the associated parts. i've never heard of crescenzi...do you have a link?

adam

[Railman]

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/custrides.htm
Also check out their bearings, & bearing prices.
Joe

[gubby]

drumr racer, i have heard bad things about the trinity lightwieght slipper plates:they are only one or 2 grams lighter than the stok plates(which wont make a noticeable difference) and they warp easily(wont sit flat when you lay them on something flat) i think AE is working on some(heard it a while ago) but i wouldnt get the trinity plates though.

[drumr racer]

Yes it would be the chassis to go, but the top plate will help, and how the bumper is behind the front wheels, the shocks would cusion it. If or when my chassis snaps, I'll just get a carbon one.
The link is http://www.rc10gthobby.com/tranny_parts.htm The pro diff rebuild kit is about halfway down.

[jimmy nitro]

If anyone could tell me the length of the rear arm center of hole to center of hole it would be really cool ! also what size is the hinge pin's diameter. The next question is kinda the same, how long is the cvd, pin of the bone to the pin hole in the bell part of the cvd?
Thank's in advance
Jimmy

[chevyman007]

Lol. What the problem was when I thought it was my esc it was actually the motor. It needed new brushes so I got some and it brought that motor back to life. Anyways, now I want to get the novak brushless for my local club racing. Im sure they wouldnt care if I get. Does anyone in here have the novak brushless? How does it perform? Later

[slotracer]

can anyone tell me what the differences are between the b4 kit and rtr? (chassis, components, etc) i've already looked at rc10.com but would like to get the owners opinions.

[gubby]

well, the RTR isnt out yet, but based on looking at the picture, the RTR comes with all the electronics(without charger and battery), different servo mounts(which TPhalen said only work with the cheapo airtronics servo), the improved and beefier front hinge pin brace(plastic) and a painted body, plus it is all built. If you are mechanically inclined, I would strongly recommend building the kit and buying electronics separately, you will get more out of the car(respect, feeling of accomplishment, etc):)

[k_sw31]

I think the RTR B4 has a few lesser features such as the blue al. shocks (but they look better ;)) and dogbones, I think that is for the most part it though.

Chevyman, I have not personally owned a novak system, but every owner of one I have talked to is extremley pleased with their systems. :)

[slotracer]

I guess what im trying to find out is can the lesser features found on the rtr version be upgraded to be as good as the kit version?

[k_sw31]

Yes you will be able to buy and add any of the upgrade parts you want to the rtr.

[slotracer]

OK Thanks:cool:

[BigBadTahoe]

I think I am going to wait and buy this rtr B4 since I want something that i can run a spec motor in, do you guys think the esc and servo would be good enough in it to race in a 19turn class? Also what would be a good spec motor to run in this buggy? This is my first buggy and am used to trucks and onroad cars. Thanks!:D :confused:

[k_sw31]

You should be fine with the stuff the rtr comes with. If need be you can up grade later.

[slotracer]

Will the b4 rtr take a stick pack??

[k_sw31]

Yes, you can use stick or side by side packs.

[MachWon]

Well.. got my B4 all built and raced last week and.. WOW! What a ride. Averaged a full lap more each heat than with my B3 right out of the box and took second in stock. Pretty impressive for an old fart like myself! Sure do love this car!

Do have some gripes though..

One has already been mentioned here, and that is the random crappy screws that have been giving people problems. We had many strip, with good tools, along with some oddballs.. one with no allen slot in it and one that had no threads at all!! :o

Also, here is a problem I couldn't find in this forum and that is the wheels. Good lord are they out of round! Every one of the front rims that came with the three kits we ordered, along with the 6 extra pair from Tower, wobble horribly.. Ugh!. You can actually see it on the car and makes it nearly impossible to true or acurately balance.

Lastly, it kind of ticked me off that rc10.com faq's state that the B3 wheels and tires won't fit the B4. That's rubbish.. they may be wider than ROAR specs but it forced us to loose a couple of bashing tires trying to get them off of well glued B3 rims before the kits got there. We stopped and discovered that they all fit (front and rear) and are not that much wider. Heck, at least they are round :)

OK.. done ranting... I do love this car!! :D

[BigBadTahoe]

I didn't know the the rtr comes with a 17turn motor. How low can the esc handle does anyone knoe yet? I'm talking about the rtr b4 by the way.:D

[k_sw31]

I beleive the RTR's esc handles down to 15-16 turns.


MachWon- Thats a bummer about all those poor rims! I havent had problems with mine at all. I did have a few of those odd screws though, one of my ball studs had no threads at all.

[MachWon]

I know k_sw31.. lot of cash seemed wasted!! :)

Given that so many have had those type of problems it would seem that AE needs to work a bit on quality control eh? In our kits, almost every one of the screws that hold the top of the motor cover on were bad. We ended up replacing them with some spare deep head blue aluminum ones we had from our B3's.

I would think that ProLine needs to up QC as well since they made all the wheels.

Mind you, these are minor probs, but I have to imagine that there are some, fresh into this hobby, that will be forced to make an extra trip to their LHS since they don't have spares. If it were me.. I'd be angry. :p



RTR's in general? - I wouldn't bother.. It doesn't take long and you'll be much better off putting it together yourself. Then you'll know it inside and out. Plus, by grabbing the other necessary components seperately, you'll be able to get those that will best suite your needs. Besides, who wants to settle for those blue, non-teflon coated shocks? :D

But hey.. that's just me :) Do what you think is best, chances are they'll probably be just fine for bashing or the novice class.

[BigBadTahoe]

I understand completely what your saying I just figured getting the rtr with the esc, motor, and servos included and even the radio is a better deal than buying all the stuff for a kit. Plus I have built 1/10 scale trucks before and understand how stuff basically works, plus the manuals have pretty good exploded view of everything too. Just what I think.:)

[k_sw31]

double post

[k_sw31]

I sorta agree with MachWon. It will be better to know the buggy inside out right off the bat. Plus chances are you eventually will want to upgrade some of the electronics anyways. In my opinion your best of picking out the gear you want. Plus you want the teflon shocks ;)

Its your choice though, go with what you want.

[gubby]

actually, the ESC that comes with the rtr b4 takes motors down to 17 turns...

[pudder]

What ESC is this we are talking about?

[BigBadTahoe]

I just need something for a novice class in a buggy because I have run trucks only before like a mfe w/ss novak BL. So I don't want to start off with a mod buggy. I will probably disassemble the whole think after a few runs so it will be just like building it. Does anyone know its approx. or exact realease date?:confused:

[k_sw31]

Late august I suspect...

[BigBadTahoe]

That's not to bad! AE is really making a lot of new stuff fast! MGT, T4, B4 kit, rtr, soon to come T4 rtr. There sure working hard I guess.:D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
soon to come T4 rtr.

Slow down there bud, they need to T4 to come out before they work on an RTR ;) But I bet they'll try to have one out before christmas time.

I myself can't wait for the T4 though. I plan on refining my fleet a bit by selling my T3 and B4 to pick up a T4, on top of the FT TC3 I eventually plan on getting. Heh, plus I'd like to get the MGT when it comes out. I guess if you count the FT GT I sold then you could say I am trading 3 ae cars for three new ae cars. :D

[BigBadTahoe]

Out with the old and in with the new, or something like that. Except I have a collection problem, I can't get rid of the old!:D

[k_sw31]

Yeah I know what you mean! I had been telling my self to sell my GT for some months, somehow I just couldn't do it, even though I didn't have an engine that worked! :p

[chevyman007]

Sell your B4! why why! lol. I love my b4 and I love ae so much I might just buy the tc3 racer kit, either that or the novak ss. Either one.

[BigBadTahoe]

Yeah I definatly have to add a B4 rtr to my collection after listening to most of the posts you guys make.:D Now if I could only sell one? naaaaa;)

[k_sw31]

Yeah, I really dont want to sell my B4 but it just doesn't have a good use. The nearby off road track is really rough, geared more towards maxxes, so my T3 is better suited to it, thats why I want a T4. So I figure its not that bad selling the B4. ;)

[slotracer]

is that b4 roar legal? tower says the rear width is 254mm.
doesnt the roar rulebook say 250mm ?

[gubby]

yep, the b4 is ROAR leagal...tower screws up a lot of their descriptions of their products

[gubby]

*legal

[slotracer]

ok, i should of known. www.hobbypeople.net has the rtr advertised for $224.99 even though their not in stock yet. for an extra $50 above kit price, it seems like their offering a lot more for the money. so guess i'll wait.

[pudder]

One problem you won't have with the B4 is bent wing wires... man it's annoying!

Check out that wing angle!

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05682.JPG

[k_sw31]

Superior aerodynamics!

[banditwing]

Man pudder with that wing angle you should get massive downforce and great handling at speed!:D

How thick is the hingpin brace? I figure that I could make one with some epoxy, metal, and my dremel easily enough:cool:
Oh, and are the holes in the brace threaded, or do they thread into some plastic in the bulkhead?

-Thanks

[ajouvenat]

I just bought my RC10 B4 for $140 yesterday along with the following components:
Factory Team Carbon:
Top Plate
Battery Strap
Front and rear arms
front and rear shock towers
Aluminum front bulkhead
Aluminum hinge pin brace

Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins

I may also complement my other carbon parts with a carbon chassis because that would be the most significant weight drop, and because I can get then for $33 :D

I spent about $100 on the extra parts and I also picked up a new LRP Quantum competition ESC for $110



As for the other stuff, I plan on using an Airtronics MX3 and either a Fantom stock motor or a Reedy.

I am so glad to be getting back into R/C cars!!!!!

[k_sw31]

Wow, did you get it used for 140? If you got the kit at that price its a steal!

[ajouvenat]

NEW IN THE FREAKING BOX my friend! The same goes for all of that stuff I bought. I really got the kit for $120, but shipping was $20 more. I am really glad I got it for so low because with the money I save I bought practically all of those graphite parts. I will also be getting that graphite chassis this week too, and I'm happy about that :D

I know it's a steal! I remember buying an RC10 B2 sport like 5 years for about $120 right when the B3 debuted.

The only draw back is that I have to wait 2-3 weeks for the kit and ESC to show up :(

[k_sw31]

Wow man where did you order it from???

[ajouvenat]

ebay

just do a search for "rc10b4" and you'll quickly spot who I got it from ;)

[drumr racer]

My friend got a used LRP IPC 7.1 used 4 85.00.
It didn't come with a manual. Can someone give me a link to somewhere on the internet that would have a manual,he can print out?
Thanks

[pudder]

www.rc10.com and followthrough to the LRP page, which should have manuals.

[drumr racer]

I checked it REALLY well, and I can't find the stupid manual, where is it, what's the site?

[k_sw31]

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/manuals/kit_manuals.htm :)

[ApriliaRacer]

Based on everyone's experience with the B4, what items do you deem necessary for racing to put on the car during assembly?

What I mean by this is, I'd like to build a reliable race car with the good parts before I get it assembled then have to tear it down to add the parts later.

I'm not interested in just "Bling Bling" parts but stuff that actually improve either the drivability or reliability of the car.

TIA

[Accord]

Originally posted by ApriliaRacer
Based on everyone's experience with the B4, what items do you deem necessary for racing to put on the car during assembly?

What I mean by this is, I'd like to build a reliable race car with the good parts before I get it assembled then have to tear it down to add the parts later.

I'm not interested in just "Bling Bling" parts but stuff that actually improve either the drivability or reliability of the car.

TIA

For pure performance, ease of adjustability, durability, and reliability I highly reccomend the following items:

-Front aluminum hinge pin brace
-TC3 ball bearings for the steering rack (the stock bushins suck!)
-Basic spring set for the front and rear
-Threaded shock bodies
-Titanium turnbuckles
-Titanium hinge pins
-Trinity aluminum servo mounts because the stock servo mounts strip out easily on hard landings or crashes
-Carbon upgrade set (this includes carbon arms, front and rear shock tower, front bulkhead brace, chassis, battery strap, etc. and just use the stock plastic parts as spares)
-Aluminum rear hub carriers

[ajouvenat]

Well the *major* upgrades I would say, are lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hingpins. Those are the most important things you can get before you build, because there are a pain to setup perfectly in the first place. I also got some heavey duty RPM ball cups to go with the new metal.

I try to shy away from aluminum unless I am using it to replace a steel part. As for the plastic, I have bought every carbon upgrade TA offers for the B4 to get it as light as possible.

You gotta keep in mind that usually carbon and aluminim will break easier than plastic and steel because they don't flex nearly as much and arent'as forgiving when you crash (like A arms and shock towers), so if you are building a backyard basher and not a racer, you should be careful on what you buy. If you see a titanium part gor for it, they are damn strong and most companies back them up 100% for life (like lunsford)

[jnegrx]

I installed the front aluminum hinge pin brace. The stock plastic piece is a waste of time. This prevents the front bulkhead from breaking. The Ti turnbuckles and hinge pins are also a good idea.

[MachWon]

Originally posted by Accord
..-TC3 ball bearings for the steering rack (the stock bushins suck!)..Which ones in the TC3 kit work in the B4 steering? Or should I just look at size alone?

[Accord]

Originally posted by MachWon
Which ones in the TC3 kit work in the B4 steering? Or should I just look at size alone?

This is what you need: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSG53&P=7

[Lapster]

Hey, do you guys know where I can print off the warranty sheet. I blew my v7.1... and I dont have the warranty sheet. I couldnt find it on any of the pages you guys listed above.

Thenks in advance.

[chevyman007]

So hows everybodys b4 running? Mines running great and I am going racing as soon as I get my novak brushless, and save up some money.

[ApriliaRacer]

I'm curious too as to how people are finding the "durability" of the B4?

I've not assembled my B4 yet as I'm waiting for some after-market parts suggested by other board members but wondering besides the bulkhead if there are any other weak points?

[colinradford]

I've been to 3 race meetings with it so far and haven't managed to break (or damage) anything.

Its been through a few tumbles after jumps etc, seems to hold up pretty well!

[banditwing]

I don't think its the bulkhead that is weak, its the lack of an alluminum tie bar. Because the tie bar is a weird shape, its a little harder to make one out of alluminum and thats why I think associated went with a plastic one as stock. I built my B4 two nights ago and the thing rocks. Agile and quiet. I guess I have become a better driver and I havent hit anything. I have coasted slowly into a wall and stuff and no injuries. Seems like a tough buggy. With the 12 SG pro that I have in there, the thing flies :)

[Gmanlusk2004]

what is a tie bar???

[speedydave]

I think he means hinge-pin brace.

[drumr racer]

He does mean Hinge-pin brace.
I do not suggest getting a novak brushless, I have one, and it stinks, what a waste, well with the b4 anyways, and the speed control is so huge.......
If you have money to blow, blow it on a Novak Super Sport, If you don't, I suggest just getting a speed control, and motor.

remember "The slower, the faster"
you get what I mean, get better driving skills first
Go b4, decent radio, an ok speed control, good motor, basic servo, Thaat's what you should start at for your first car. Then it goes, 1.aluminum front hinge-pin brace
2.extra front-inner hinge-pins, not titanium, unless lunsford. It's easier getting a broken hinge-pin out that a bent one.
3.extra set of front plastic A-arms, not carbon. Carbon ones are not I repeat not stronger. Flex is better than rolling brick!
4.Better servo, preferably one that has alot of speed.
5. Better batteries
6.better speed control
Do that, and it would be better.

[banditwing]

Yeah tie bar/ hingepin brace, same thing. In fact I'm making one using 4 strips of 2mm alluminum and then epoxying/ JB welding them together.

Yeah the graphite stuff is definatly stiffer than the plastic, I'm going to install some of it after I get some runs on my track to feel the difference.

[gubby]

*cough cough*

so.....how's everyone's b4 doing?

i just bought some aluminum shock caps cause i popped one of the plastic ones off the body...now its running real good....

*cough cough*

[drumr racer]

This is what I bought so far. as in hopp-upps
alum. battery brace,
Alum. shock caps
alum shock bushings,
35 weight,
blue bulkhead
2blue hinge pin braces
alum. servo mounts

[banditwing]

I haven't installed anyhop ups but the new graphite updated hingepin brace. (Had the stock on before and it worked fine...). Haven't broken a front arm or bulked or brace yet, and car has been holding up extremly well. (Knock on wood). Are any of you guys members of www.rc10b4.com? It seems like there has been a steady decline in the amount of posts in this forum and I was just wondering if a lot of the users went to that site...

[Lapster]

Where do you guys get your aluminum shock caps?

I dont want to put too much aluminum... but iI think the alum. shock caps are a must.

[k_sw31]

I disagree for metal shock caps. I have been using AE shocks for years and the plastic shock caps have never failed me. It works on the same principles as your spur and pinion combo. Since the pinion is metal and the spur is plastic it provides the ideal gear mesh, the same effect that you get when you screw the plastic shock cap on the shock body; it provides and ideal seal. :)

IMO...

[Lapster]

Ive gone through 8 shock caps... they just get stripped when i land off of some big jumps. Then I get shock oil all over my car. But just from my experience I think I will need them. Although... I havent blown one in about 2 weeks.

[k_sw31]

It sounds like you have too much shock oil in there. Try building the shocks, screw the cap on just a little bit and compress it so all the excess shock oil comes out....I have never had any problems...and I have done some pretty big jumps!

[Lapster]

Thats exactly what I do.... I might just tinker with my shocks too much... I hate having dirty oil and such... I take the shocks apart probably every 5 runs. Thats probably it.

[Lapster]

Woah... How did I post twice?

[k_sw31]

Thats pretty odd, never heard of AE shock caps popping off. You may be over tighting the shock caps to begin with. I know the manual says "do not over tighten, at risk of stripping shock caps" or something like that.

I just tighten the caps down till they lightly bottom out...

[Lapster]

Yep... I thighten them. Make it so it is about half a turn from being able to turn it anymore.

[ApriliaRacer]

I was wondering if I have to "insulate" the B4 Graphite Chassis if I'm running the side by side home built battery packs?

My Losi XXX-T MFE came with some clear tape to put inside the battery area where the "poles" of the batteries touch.

When I picked up the B4 Graphite parts, there was no such "insulation" and was wondering if I should put something in there?

Does graphite short batteries?

[k_sw31]

Graphite can short batteries, but I am not sure about the AE graphite composite. You might as well stay on the safe side and put some electrical tape on it...

[Twist 2 Go]

There are 2 decals included on the decal sheet for insulating the sides of the battery box

[wcoyote_racer]

As far as the RC10B4 site I am a member. Here is what I do with my setups. This all depends on taste though too. My particular taste was for racing.

1. Get a good FM radio if you can right off. An extra 30 dollars now saves you $90-$120 later, $40-60 on ebay for transmitter only if you already have the reciever for it. You don't need an M8 to race.
2. Speed control. Unless you need or want it, never bother with a reversing one. The internal resistance is higher on them which will make them less efficient than the normal forward only ones. They are heavier too. Buy one that can do 12 turns or 14 turns if you do are going to race modified class. 16 turns for stock. The internal resistance seems better on those and it allows you to buy a faster motor to get used to driving later on.
3. Start with a good stock motor to help with your driving and tuning abilities. Consistancy wins. The person who wrecks the least usually wins.
4. Hinge pin brace is a must. Titanium turnbuckles are a nice addition (easier adjusting). But different springs and shock oil, usually 25-35wt, will be a better investment to begin with. Remember first you tune the car to find out what setup is best, make sure you are comfortable driving the car with that setup, then you buy the lighter accesories unless you break something (like the turnbuckles). Graphite is lighter and stiffer, but more prone to breaking than plastic during a crash.

[ApriliaRacer]

Ah so those are what those oddly shaped decals are for!

I didn't really look at the sheet as my paint job doesn't have any room for any stickers. Well, what I mean is I don't want to cover my paint job with stickers :)

Thanks!

[drumr racer]

I bought the aluminum shock caps because I was driving on a tennis court, and into the pole to hold up the net.
the a-arm broke, and popped a ballcup off, tore the shock cap off the shock body.
so I was riding tripod
the aluminum shock caps are better because they are harder to strip, but if you are a speed demon, get the plastic ones, because it won't screw up the shock body.
besides there is a rubber o-ring (hopefully)

[drumr racer]

man, I got the new issue of Rc car action
That is so awesome that they made a buggie shootout with the b4, and xxx

[lil_general_lee]

2 words, Awsome Car!

[k_sw31]

Moo. :)

[gubby]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Moo. :)

LOL


that is a cool paintjob though lil_general_lee

i wish i could have a cool one...mine is plain blue:p

[DLF]

Everyone, I'm trying to put together a list of avaliable updates for the B4 as there appear to be quite a few being released by AE. Do we have anyone here with connections to AE that can provide that info to me so that it can be posted somewhere on the web? There doesn't appear to be one that exists now. Thanks.

[RCB3]

That reminds me of the paint scheme on the RC10T's that Associated factory guys ran when it first came out.

[lil_general_lee]

Well gubby, It sure beats my other B4's plain yellow paint job, lol. sometimes I think a simple one or two color paint job looks better then some wicked crazy paint job.

As far as the plastic caps go I have never had a problem.. Check to see if the piston and shaft hit the cap before the shock fully bottoms out, if it does then put a spacer or two from Associated part #6466 on the shaft so it bottoms out before it can hit the cap.

[drumr racer]

is it possible for the shaft to hit the cap?

[pudder]

It could be possible, but I have never had it happen to any of my cars before.

[lil_general_lee]

A think a couple of the older AE cars had the shaft/piston hit the cap before they bottomed out, I believe the T3 was the first vehicle to eliminate that. I believe it was also one of the first to use composite caps. I remember I bought a set of the Hammad Ghuman Clear VLT lexan shocks, Blew three of them out within 2 days. The piston/shaft hit the cap before it bottomed out, and the lexan bodies couldn't withstand the abuse. I checked the shocks on my B4 and it does not have that problem. When you built the shocks you may have blead them incorrectly and there is too much pressure inside them. You should easily be able to push the shaft all the way in till it bottoms out.

[Twist 2 Go]

The lower spring retainer should keep the shaft from hitting the cap.

[jnegrx]

I think he has too much oil in the shock. I've used the plastic caps since they first came out and i haven't had any problems with them blowing out. The only problem with them is if you don't tighten them staright.

[RCB3]

I believe the RC10 World's car was the first to keep the pistons from hitting the caps by using shorter shock shafts compared to the shock body size. The best way to get the pressure out is to push the shaft all the way in with the cap just a little loose so the oil can come out then tighten the cap.

[microrcdude]

can someone tell me what upgrades i should consider buying?

[Fluke]

What pinion should i put with a P2K in the B4?

[ApriliaRacer]

Pinion "size" is going to depend on the size of the track you are running. At our local track I run the stock spur with a 22 tooth pinion.

If you are running at a track, check with some of the locals. If you are bashing, you can basically go with what you like as long as you don't "fry" the motor by either running too long or way over gearing.

Upgrades to the B4. The buggy doesn't really need any. There are quite a few guys out at my local track that run them right out of the box.

Here's what I did;

I went with the full Graphite kit. I really don't think this one is important at all, especially at my level of racing. But I know how I am. I'd eventually do it, so I did it when I began assembly. Again, the Graphite stuff for me is just pure bling-bling. Also, when you look at the stock stuff and the graphite, you really can't see a difference. They look very similar.

I replaced the small plastic piece in front that holds the "A" arms with a trinity aluminum piece. Important note here. Make sure you use the hinge pins that came with the trinity piece as they are shorter (this assumes you have one of the newer B4 kits). If you don't and use the ones that came in the kit, you are asking for problems. I also put bearings in the steering area rather than using the bushings.

I also went with Lunsford Ti turnbuckles and an RPM gear cover. I've got a Trinity Ally bulkhead too, but won't replace that till I have to.

The rest of my mods are peformance related such as the shock pistons and springs.

I've heard of some guys replacing the shock caps with the Ally bits because they've had problems with the stock plastic ones, but I've not had any issues with them so far...

[Fluke]

That didn't answer my question
What is the best # of teeth on a pinion for a P2K in a B4 mainly a basher with the stock spur?

[pudder]

What he meant was, deppending on what you are running on, and how you are driving it will effect your gearing choices. There should be a gearing chart in your B4 manual somewhere. Try looking there if you don't get any good answers.

[wcoyote_racer]

I'm not aware if that motor comes with a sticker that may also show the spur/pinion combinations. Usually the best way is start with the gear chart for the motor or the gear chart with the car. Most modifications people use to those charts are by one or two teeth in either direction on the pinion. Have some one time you if you can, or if your radio has a lap counter use it.

I've also had luck with borrowing pinions to use on practice runs(key words practice runs) if you don't have much money. That way you can test out what one works best and buy it without having to buy 5 pinions for only one you will use for racing. Just remember to return the ones you borrow. People will be more apt to helping you out next time at the track if you do.

[Fluke]

THX Guys
I think i gonna start with a 24t and see how it goes

[RC_Flames]

I got a B4 in June and have loved it ever since! Its awesome car. However, I want an ESC with no motor limit so I can buy a better motor. Would a Novak Spy Micro Reversible work with the B4???

Thanks

[speedydave]

Hey guys. I know I've posted the same question here before, but it's probably waaaaaaaay far back, and parts are different now, so here goes.

I'm going to be buying a B4 at the beginning of next month(most likely), and I want to buy all the hopups I need for it before I build it. I want to keep it relatively low budget, and will be racing mostly stock with some mod. I already have a servo, receiver, and I'm buying a used purple label Cyclone from a friend($50 :D ), and I have motors and batteries taken care of. I am by no means a newbie to the hobby, or to racing, I just want a cheap car to race with my gas truck when winter rolls around and we head to the arena(Delta R/C, if any of you know of it). I've been reading for a while, and here's what I've come up with as far as what I think I've seen as the most recommended hopups:

Ti turnbuckles
RPM gear cover
alum. front hinge pin brace
TC3 rack steering bearings(for the bellcranks)

Am I forgetting anything? I'm not sure what springs to pick up, since AE has changed some around since I last raced electric(over 18 months ago). Just so I know if I have any pinions that are close, what's the recommended pinion for a stock motor? I've got all my truck pinions(18-22), but I'm assuming I'll need something bigger for the B4. I'd like to keep this car as inexpensive as possible, so only the essentials, really. Does it really matter what hinge pin brace I get(they vary in price, but I don't know if somehow they vary in quality or anything like that)? Same with turnbuckles...I had good luck with the AE ti turnbuckles on my FTGT, T3, B3, and TC3, but I have lunsford's on my gas truck, so maybe it would be easier to stick with everything the same? Thanks for all the help!

Edit: RC_Flames, as far as I know, the Spy won't work with "normal" 540 motors in this application. At least, I wouldn't push it, and it definitely won't handle mod motors in a B4.

[drumr racer]

I am absolutely positive that the Spy Micro doesn't work on 1/10 scale cars, only 1/18

[jnegrx]

The spy is for micro motors ONLY. I also need a speed control, i wanted a novak gt7 but some people tell me that it can have problems. My choices are LRP Quantum2, the novak GT7 or the GM V12. Any suggestions?

[pudder]

I know of quite a few people that use each of those ESC's. As far as I know, none of them have had problems. But I think the GM is one of the best as far as being reccomended here at my track. Look into the features, price, and reviews as well as word of mouth, it will help you make a good decision.

[Lapster]

I would definitely vote for the GM V12 xc... by far the best esc out there... in my mind at least.




But you dont know what crazy things are goin on in my mind right now.:p

[speedydave]

Anyone have any comments on my hopup situation? Also, are silver front springs still one stiffer than green, and are browns softer or firmer than greens? Is green still one softer for the rear, or is it green, grey, silver, softest to firmest? Thanks.

[adam lancia]

spring rates softest to hardest:

front:
brown
black
green
silver
blue

rear:
black
green
silver
gray
blue

as for the hop ups, i think you have everything covered. depending on the size of your track, you might want to pick up 23t to a 26t pinions for the stocker and maybe down to a 16t for your mods. good luck...oh yeah, TIRES!!!!

adam

[speedydave]

Thanks, Adam. I've got an 18, 20, (screwed up) 21, and 22 tooth pinions left over from my truck racing days, so I'm ordering another 21, and a 23 and 24 with the buggy.

...oh yeah, TIRES!!!!

No kidding! I think the stock tires(if they are actually M3) should hook up well on the track I'm going to run on. Do any of you know how Evil Twins compare to Losi Taper Pins? Also, how does the R3 compound compare to the M3 compound? Thanks!

[drumr racer]

It would be so sick if I got Evil Twin, where can I find them?

[speedydave]

Evil Twin M3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDCX2&P=7)

Evil Twin R3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFHL8&P=7)

[drumr racer]

what is the difference between the R3 compound, and M3?
which one is soft, which one is hard, what are their traits?

[speedydave]

M3 was Pro-Line's softest compound. I don't know how R3 compares to it, since R3 is new. Go here (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/r3/r3-info.html) for info on the R3 compound.

[k_sw31]

From what it seems, the R3 compound its geared more towards high bite, hard packed conditions. It looks like pro line came up with a completley new compound, looking to add life and traction to their tires. I'd guess your probably better off getting the R3 rather than the M3.

[RCB3]

Hey even a better idea would be to go back to fluff tracks instead of blue groove and you wouldn't have to worry as much on how long your tires will last and you could run bigger motors.

[drumr racer]

What are fluff tracks?

[adam lancia]

i've run a pair of the R3 compound evil twins and i can say that what pro-line claims is true. they feel a little softer than the M3 compound but after a night of racing, they have hardly any wear visible where the M3 compound would have shown a lot more wear.

adam

[speedydave]

Same amount of traction between the two(M3 and R3)?

[RCNitroDude999]

Sup dudes. Just got the B4, awesome car, since i've been into nitro, i dont know much about electric, so I went with the RTR version. A couple of questions....maybe yall could help me out here. The stock speed control has a motor limit of 18 turns, but a 17 turn is included. Will this affect anything? Also, can I replace the motor with another 17 turn safely?

[k_sw31]

The stock speed control has a turn limit of 16 turns I beleive, you should be fine. :)

[adam lancia]

the R3's have more traction, especially if the track is blue groove.....


adam

[k_sw31]

I need some new rear's, not for the track, but playing around the house/yard. I can't get out to the track a whole lot, so I need some good long wearing rear's. Step pins seemed to give good traction for the places I like to bash, but didn't last too long; I'll just use the steps for racing.

Does anyone know of a good bashing tire? I am thinking of these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU13&P=7

If anyone else has some ideas, lmk. :)

[pudder]

Ya, those tires are really good for bashing. I have tried them before on pavement, loose sand, gravel, grass, and they hooked up great on most surfaces. Not to mention, they also look cool.

[RCB3]

drumr racer- Fluff tracks are tracks that aren't hard packed and you have to run a much more aggressive tread. This is the style of tracks from the '80s and early '90s back before foam inserts and super soft tires.

[pudder]

We used to have a track like that here. They even ran paddle tires on it too. :D The track I run on is sort of loamy, loose dry dirt with hard underneath, it is nice to run on actually.

[Twist 2 Go]

I would love to run on tracks like that again. The track I run at now is hard packed clay that blue grooves, but it has a nice layer on sand about 1/8" thick on some spots that make it very hard to get traction on.

[drumr racer]

Is it harder to drive better, and get more traction on fluff tracks?

[drumr racer]

I have a tip: don't CA your metal-sheilded ball-bearings stuck.
I got a heavy duty servo saver spring, and I stripped two servo saver lowers to get it in there. Just put CA on the threads on the inside to make new threads. If you have ball bearing steering, take the ball bearing out before you glue the servo saver lower.

[pudder]

Originally posted by drumr racer
Is it harder to drive better, and get more traction on fluff tracks?

Yes, because the dirt is fluffy, you need large pin type tires, and there is a lot more wheelspin.

[speedydave]

Pudder, did you get one of these yet? :p

[drumr racer]

sorry to butt in, but one of what?

[speedydave]

A B4...

[pudder]

No I havent yet. I really have no desire for one right now, I'm fine with my B3. I also want to get a GT too. Maybe when the FT versions of the B4 and T4 roll out I will get them. For now I will just hang around here. :)

[ole]

what ballcups do you use for the B4? the associated ones are weak.

[pudder]

I think you can use the standard length RPM ballcups.

[Gmanlusk2004]

i use the (gulp) losi ball cups. don't hate, but that's all the shop had when i was racing! I broke a cup and they only had losi. I had to cut it to make it work, but they are strong as crap!!!

L8r,
Garrett

[pudder]

That is a real no-no. I wouldn't reccomend mixing Losi parts with AE vehicles. I have seen the Losi ballcups to be rather poor actually. Hmm...

[k_sw31]

RPM ballcups are the best IMO, but remember, any ball cups will weaken and "wear out" over time of being popped off for adjustments and what not.

Just do us a favor, take the losi off your AE! :D

[Gmanlusk2004]

Originally posted by Gmanlusk2004
don't hate, but that's all the shop had when i was racing!


Hey.... i already changed back. hahaha

geez.

L8r,
Garrett

[RCB3]

Originally posted by drumr racer
Is it harder to drive better, and get more traction on fluff tracks?


It also makes you drive a different line because the groove moves. You don't have to spend alot of money buying wheels and tires all the time.

[gubby]

i prefer fluff tracks, but i suppose it would be nice to ry blue groove once to experience a clean rc car:D

oh well, that will probably never happen seeing how i dont wanna pay money for tires after every few runs(i hate gluing tires, too)

[pudder]

I like my track, I wore down one set of Losi silver compound Step Pins and barely any wear on my second set. That is for all season long. :D

[ole]

Anyone using Threaded shock bodies? What are the part nos. for the threaded shocks?

[Lapster]

I am going to order mine soon from www.greatmodels.com .

Front- 9312
Rear- 9662

[gubby]

i had my first race last night(a kid at my school who i know told me to try and make it, luckily my mom was off early that day), so i got to go! i only had a KR 14x2 so i had to race mod(which is like an expert class at this track, only one mod class too). so in the 2nd and 3rd heats, i didnt have much traction. because of that, my b4 was all over the track(i accidently hit someone who was upside down on the straight, didnt see them. its good i didnt break anything on his car). so it was a really fun night, and i placed 6/10!!!!

:D

[pudder]

Well that is pretty good. Racing sure is fun for the first time. And by the sounds of it you didnt really take anyone out, which is mistake most people new to racing make. :)

[gubby]

yeah, i was afraid i would. im gonna buy a stock motor(my existing stockers are bashers thatre trashed) because mod is a little fast for me right now. anyone have a reccomendation for a stock motor? i was thinking about the reedy mvp.

[pudder]

The Reedy MVP or P2k 2 Pro are both great motors.

I have had both, and they are both around the same level of performance. I liked the look of the MVP better though because it's brush hoods dont tarnish over time like the ones on the P2k, but at the same time there is no surface mounted caps. As well, the MVP does tend to get a bit hotter than the P2k 2, but it is nothing really to worry about. You might want to check out what is the racers choice down at your track for stock motors as well.

[gubby]

alright, thanks. i think i'll call down to the track and ask which is the most popular stock motor. stock is the biggest electric class there, so they should know, hopefully.

[ole]

Got my B4 today ! What hopups do i need to buy? What parts usually break? Do i really need aluminum servo mounts and aluminum front hinge pin brace and aluminum bulkhead?

[pudder]

From what I have seen and heard, you really only need the front alumnum hingepin brace. I dont think the aluminum bulkhead or servo mounts are necessary. Just make sure that you dont wrench down the servo mounts and your threads will last long and not strip.

[drumr racer]

I got my aluminum hopup; hinge pin brace, servo mounts, shock bushings, front bulkhead, and battery brace just for show.
get the hinge-pin brace, it doesn't have to be Trinity, you can get a cheep anodized one for like 5 bucks, just seach Ebay for it, and there are cheap bulkheads on it too.

[gubby]

but wait...which version of the b4 do you have?

if you have the old version, you need the alum. himge pin brace

the old one has a plastic hinge pin brace thats about 1/4 cm thick.

the newer one has a hinge pin brace thats about 3/4 cm thick. its a lot thicker, andit sticks out more.

[ole]

thanks guys for the tips about hopups. So what parts wear or break easily?