Mugen MTX-3 Competition Nitro Touring Car

[Manticore]

Originally posted by G87z
Ok I got my mugen MTX3, yet to put it together. I also have the mugen 5 cell hump pack. 730mah futaba style connector. my question is what kind of charger should I get to charge the pack. I dont really want to spend a ton of money one on. I already have a charger for my packs for my starter box but it dosent go down to 1 or 2 amps which the 5 cell hump requires.


any input would be helpful


thanks
George

this

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=1683&p_catid=23&sid=2dODWE0li0Tz6Rf-26103179573.dd

or this

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=1682&p_catid=23&sid=2dODWE0li0Tz6Rf-26103179573.dd

the same charger but the first one combo with a power supply.

the charger takes care all your battery from glow plug starter to TX battery.

[G87z]

humm those chargers are way 2 much for what im looking to do. not into Electric cars. I just need something to charger my RX pack.

thank you for your input though..

anyone else?

thanks

George

[jason102276]

if you only want to charge your reciever pack and you dont mind waiting all night i have a wall charger i was going to put on ebay

or if you would like something faster i use the hangar 9 double vision it was around $60 and will charge a glow ignitor reciever pack and radio it has all the necessary connectors and can charge all 3 at the same time takes about an hour for each item or all at the same time

[tekrsq]

I normally use an overnight wall charger also. To me it helps the packs last longer. On the off chance I need to re-peak at the track, I use either my Integy 16x9 or Integy Sigma (depending which one I have with me).

I use the CH-96 wall charger here:
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-9.html

[sccobra]

Is anyone using a sirio .12 outlaw in this car? I have one and the carb hits the brake and the radio plate. I cannot rotate to get it to fit. Has anyone had to shim the motor? Thanks.

[G87z]

there was someone at my local track that had one. seemed to work fine. I am personally running a nova mega sx.12. heh serpent motor in a mugen. haha. but if I get my MTX3 finished by sat ill look and see if that guy is at the track..


George

[Manticore]

Originally posted by tekrsq
I normally use an overnight wall charger also. To me it helps the packs last longer. On the off chance I need to re-peak at the track, I use either my Integy 16x9 or Integy Sigma (depending which one I have with me).

I use the CH-96 wall charger here:
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-9.html

the car engine compartment is a bit tight for sirio. I use a novarossi carb right from the beginning. i need to rotate the carb slightly and I need to file away some material from the carb body so that the carb wont touch on the brake rotor.

[ilaybrk]

hey tommy the wall charger has worked for me for 4 years the airtronics #95033 works great then at track I have a accu cycleplus

[tekrsq]

Jack, are you guys getting any racing in up there?? The rain is killing us down here!!!!!!!

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by tekrsq
Jack, are you guys getting any racing in up there?? The rain is killing us down here!!!!!!!

Here we had today slightly over 30ºC and a shiny sun without clouds, slight windy (good it cleans the track). Forecast for tomorrow is quite similar so I'm preparing mine sets of 40's and 42's. :D

If I could can a little of the weather, for sure that I'll send you. ;)

[jason102276]

tekrsq they are still predicting a possibility of rain sun and monday definetly today and tommorrow

[tekrsq]

You know Alfonso, that's just not right, lol...We've been under the clouds for about 2 months!!!!! I can't take it anymore, I'm starting to have nitro withdrawals!!!!

Jason, same here...I hope it clears up for our June 1 race. A couple of the NJ boys are coming down to run 1/8 scale. I think 1 or 2 of them has a 200mm car as well. Get the guys together and come on down!!!!

[turbochrgdRICE]

Over here in Cali the weather is perfect. Around 65° or so. Perfect weather for me to break in my MR-12 engine :D Well I gotsta go, *trys to start engine*

[jason102276]

sorry tekrsq i need to get up to the offroad track that weekend and get some more practice before our offroad regional the 7th and 8th

and if i am really lucky i will be putting my mbx5 on the track for the first time

i must admit since i have started racing 1/8 buggy the mtx3 has been getting closer and closer to being sold

dont worry i wont sell it though eventually i will get the bug to race it again did someone say trophy race?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by jason102276
i must admit since i have started racing 1/8 buggy the mtx3 has been getting closer and closer to being sold


Uhm.... If GF (A.K.A: The Big Boss) made me to choose between MTX3 and MRX3 surely that I'll be into a big problem, but comparing MTX3 with the OffRoad don't compares.

Don't sell the MTX3, surely that near has a National race and the venom should be present into your veins (Nitro + Foam is a tough drug) another time. :D Just remember what say my signature: Friends don't let friends run their TC with rubbers :D :D

[jason102276]

the wife couldnt make me sell it no matter what she says

if she says i cant have rc cars and race what would she take away next? food and water? sleep? i would be forced to leave pack up all my stuff and move to southern california

the nationals here this year are all the way in socal on the complete other side of the continent from my home in MD i wont be attending

i am forced by my wife and new daughter to race only locally and not as often as i would perfer

near here there are many onroad tracks mainly parking lot temporary tracks and a couple permenent i perfer to run on a permenent track but unfortunatly it is under new management and he has shown that he hasnt been putting all of his resources into running it well

the point is the local onroad racers are racing all over and turnouts are low

offroad there is only 1 track in all of maryland and therefore he gets big crowds every week usually at least 70 entries between the 3 classes whereas onroad you would be lucky to have 15-30 guys show up

and to boot the offroad guy runs probably the most organized races of all ive been to

every week racing offroad is a bigger turnout then onroad regional events it makes it all much more fun

and no matter how hard i try i cant seem to break my mbx4xr

i am not going to sell the mtx3 unless someone offers me a deal i cant refuse otherwise i will keep it and run it at as many trophy races i can make it to

but if i am asked to compare i will pick offroad before you can finish the question sorry

and i feel like there is more competition offroad i have already won an onroad points series and placed 3rd at a regional event offroad i have to work to make the A main

first time i saw an 1/8 buggy i knew i wanted one but i couldnt afford it then track closed so i got onroad now that there is a nice offroad track and i can afford it i have finally got what i wanted

i do love that signature when i started racing novice class was forced to run rubber tires (they thought it would be cheaper for us than foam) and i got kinda used to it then i moved up to the pro class and i said i was going to use rubber tires untill i ran out but after 1 qualifyer getting smacked down by foams i was in the shop buying them threw the rubber tires away after that run

[Nofri]

Anybody know an online shop in Europe that sells the Mugen MTX3?

[G87z]

alright. got my MTX 3 together to the point of setting it up. as far as camber,caster,toe in,toe out,ride height and droop im good 2 go. now on the set up sheet it says rebound stop 2mm for the front and 6mm for the rear and the bump stop there is none. I take it the rebound is set by the screw that goes down in the arms and bump is set by the screw going up. my only question is how to measure this?

been in Nitro Touring since the 4tec pro came out. just decided to sell it and move up to a better car. never had to adjust this stuff before.

Any help would be great.

Thanks in advance

George

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Which pipe/header you guys recommand for MTX-3? If you could give me the link where i can get it please

Thanks.

[tekrsq]

Try this one: http://www.rdlogics.com/products.htm . I run the "One-Piece Turbo" pipe. You can't beat it.

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by G87z
alright. got my MTX 3 together to the point of setting it up. as far as camber,caster,toe in,toe out,ride height and droop im good 2 go. now on the set up sheet it says rebound stop 2mm for the front and 6mm for the rear and the bump stop there is none. I take it the rebound is set by the screw that goes down in the arms and bump is set by the screw going up. my only question is how to measure this?

been in Nitro Touring since the 4tec pro came out. just decided to sell it and move up to a better car. never had to adjust this stuff before.

Any help would be great.

Thanks in advance

George

Rebound is the same as droop. You say you can set that??? Bump stop (or up-stop) most people do not use. I've been told it's a valuable tuning aid, however, most people have problems setting it correctly. If it's not set correctly, it actually does more harm then it you just didn't use at all. Therefore, nobody messes with it.

Just set your droop, and you should be ok. Experiment with different settings to see how the car reacts.

[G87z]

HEY!. thanks for the help man. I have just never heard of droop being called that. cant wait to break in the engine and throw down some laps on the track.




thanks

George

[codeman]

Hey all,

I've been running my MTX3/Paris Top engine, for about a month now. Love it! Excellent handling without a doubt.

Pain in the butt to clean and maintain the thing though if not track driven everytime; and even when, :mad: aw well ...

Anyways, any tips you guys might have with setups/tires etc.?

So far I've had to replace one of the front dogbones (replaced with front universals), and the rear belt. My rear diff gear has a tooth chipped, and same with my spur gears :( my fault for running it in a not-so-clean parking lot though. Seems to be a very strong and well built kit though, bending the dogbone in a crash while everything else on the car remained unharmed :D

Would you guys reccomend any of the hop-ups? I really don't see a need for anything more than front/rear universals on the kit, and soon enough replacing the stock chassis plate with one of the aftermarket plates with the more beveled edges. I find from the few scrapes on the ground, its chipped away around the very front and rear screws. ALways sad getting your first few scratches on the kit :p

[tekrsq]

The only hop ups it needs (in my opinion) are the cvds, the aluminum engine brace, and the aluminum wheel hexes. The car is awsome out of the box otherwise. If you want performance upgrades, go for lightening the car, especially the rotating mass of the driveline. Like hollow shafts, lightened tranny housings, lightened pulley mounts, etc.

[codeman]

cool ... yeah, I was thinking of the aluminum pulleys, although that might be a little tougher on the belts? I guess its cheaper to replace belts than the pulleys though.

I havn't found a need for the aluminum engine brace though, my pinion gears still look new and shiny green, which would mean the mesh is perfect, and I'm not getting any flex which would otherwise tighten/losen the mesh.


Definitly the CVDs though ... the dogbones just don't cut it. I don't know why they skimped out on that.

(offtopic)Anybody have any info on the Team Magic G4?? :P ... Im seriously debating on picking one up when its available here sometime late June.

[codeman]

cool ... yeah, I was thinking of the aluminum pulleys, although that might be a little tougher on the belts? I guess its cheaper to replace belts than the pulleys though.

I havn't found a need for the aluminum engine brace though, my pinion gears still look new and shiny green, which would mean the mesh is perfect, and I'm not getting any flex which would otherwise tighten/losen the mesh.


Definitly the CVDs though ... the dogbones just don't cut it. I don't know why they skimped out on that.

(offtopic)Anybody have any info on the Team Magic G4?? :P ... Im seriously debating on picking one up when its available here sometime late June.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by codeman
cool ... yeah, I was thinking of the aluminum pulleys, although that might be a little tougher on the belts? I guess its cheaper to replace belts than the pulleys though.

I havn't found a need for the aluminum engine brace though, my pinion gears still look new and shiny green, which would mean the mesh is perfect, and I'm not getting any flex which would otherwise tighten/losen the mesh.


Definitly the CVDs though ... the dogbones just don't cut it. I don't know why they skimped out on that.

(offtopic)Anybody have any info on the Team Magic G4?? :P ... Im seriously debating on picking one up when its available here sometime late June.

Actually the plastic pulley set is cheaper than one belt.

-Puma

[codeman]

ahhh, so are you hinting that its best just to keep the stock pieces, or?

btw, does anybody know an online shop that carries the front diff gears and parts needed to get it working? (microrcshop.com has them, but never in stock)

[turbochrgdRICE]

Hey guys. Does anyone know how to remove a broken hex ball end out of a hex screw? My hex screwdriver end broke off and now it's stuck in the actual hex screw. The problem is that it's stuck in the engine mounts. I may need to remove the engine sometime soon but i dont want to take a dremel to it. The reason why I might have to remove the engine is because I'm on my 4th tank and for the first three tanks the piston has been getting stuck at the top of the sleeve after I bump start it. The starter box can't turn over the engine so I have to remove the engine then turn the flywheel by hand. And now that the hex end is stuck I'm going to have a problem.


Another question.

Is there anyother way that I can mount my throttle arm?? The ball end on the carb (the one that opens the slide carb) touches the upper deck so now i have it at a deep angle. When I mount the ball cup the throttle rod is at a weird angle so my carb gets stuck sometimes. Is there any other way to mount the throttle rod to the servo arm? If I mounted it to the top of the arm then I'd still have a weird angle so...I'm not sure what to do.

thnx

[codeman]

have a strong magnet? good at soldering?

You could try and pull it out with a magnet after giving a good hit around the screw with a wooden hammer/wodden block to see if you can losen it ... or, if thta failed next I would try to see if I could solder a ball to the actual broken bit, and try and yank it out with plyers bulling on the solder?

Give it a try

[Nytrochaos]

Another thing.....while i dont have an input on your ball end squabbles, when your piston gets stuck in the middle of a rotation (TDC) you dont need to take the engine out to fix this! if that were the case.......i would have missed so many races trying to start my car! Instead, take a flathead screwdriver and brace it on the flywheel through the bottom of the chassis, and the chassis itself. then use the chassis as a fulcrum, and the screwdriver as a lever to rotate the flywheel. this will take away the anondize on your flywheel super quickly, but that doesnt matter much. It may sound complicated, but it only takes seconds

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Nytrochaos
Another thing.....while i dont have an input on your ball end squabbles, when your piston gets stuck in the middle of a rotation (TDC) you dont need to take the engine out to fix this! if that were the case.......i would have missed so many races trying to start my car! Instead, take a flathead screwdriver and brace it on the flywheel through the bottom of the chassis, and the chassis itself. then use the chassis as a fulcrum, and the screwdriver as a lever to rotate the flywheel. this will take away the anondize on your flywheel super quickly, but that doesnt matter much. It may sound complicated, but it only takes seconds

I just use a pair of pliers. :)

[turbochrgdRICE]

Well. I just finished running my 8th tank on my MR12. The engine is pretty powerful! I set the centax clutch to stock settings but the clutch engages late so I have to find out which way to turn the adjust nut on the centax so that it engages earlier. Does anyone know which way? Clock-wise or Counterclock-wise?

Well anyways. The car handles excellent at all throttle. I was going full throttle through long U-turn and the car didn't kick out. It stuck to the ground ^_^

I am having problems with the screws that hold the steering rods to the servo saver. After each tank I have to re-screw the screws in. I think that I need to buy some longer screws otherwise my steering may give out during a race -_-

[tekrsq]

If you are looking at the front of the engine, turn the clutch nut counter-clockwise for earlier engagement. You can do this simply by putting a small allen wrench in he hole in the clutchbell. Rotate the crankshaft until the allen wrench slides down into the groove on the clutch nut. Now simply turn it.

For the steering problem, put a small drop of locktite on the bolts and screw them into a nut NOT on the car. Once the lock tite dries, take out the bolt and install on the car as normal. The reason for this is-- if you put the locktite on the bolt and install it on the car, you will NEVER get it out without tearing the entire front end apart. With just a little residual left on the bolt, it's just enough to keep it from unscrewing itself, but not enough to lock the bolt so tight you can't get it out.

[Tag]

hey guys! anyone knows the initial carb setting for MR12 Turbo ? i use stock rex pipe , header. any info wil be highly appreciated !

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by turbochrgdRICE
I am having problems with the screws that hold the steering rods to the servo saver. After each tank I have to re-screw the screws in. I think that I need to buy some longer screws otherwise my steering may give out during a race -_-

Nope, only you need to do is to apply some threadlock on the screw prior to tightening (I use blue loctite) and I assure you that something other part can be loose during operation, but not the screws I applied blue loctite.

Saw some kind of little trick at mrx3.com regarding those nasty ball connectors and is to do a little cut with a cutting disk to use a flat screwdriver when you're tightening the screw.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Nope, only you need to do is to apply some threadlock on the screw prior to tightening (I use blue loctite) and I assure you that something other part can be loose during operation, but not the screws I applied blue loctite.

Saw some kind of little trick at mrx3.com regarding those nasty ball connectors and is to do a little cut with a cutting disk to use a flat screwdriver when you're tightening the screw.

I usually end up wedging a needle-nose and grabbing the ball. :D

[tekrsq]

I tried that a couple of times, but if you have more than a "drop" of lock tite on it, it's damn near impossible.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by tekrsq
I tried that a couple of times, but if you have more than a "drop" of lock tite on it, it's damn near impossible.

Yep, specially with blue loctite.... that's why I applied those trick appeared at Jason website...

Carry a gorilla flat screwdriver, for when the times are tough.... :D

[G87z]

WOOHOOOOO. ;)
haha well got the car all set up, engine broke in, set the car up my my friends hudy board to stock specs. then went down to the local track. went mid day, no one there. perfect time to get in some pratice. Car running great. putting in some fast laps as a friend times with a stop watch. so I run bout 10-13 tanks of fuel. On last tank I was running the tires broke loose around the sweeing turn and BOOM! into the wall. and if I didnt break the front up right. haha glad I read on here about making sure I buy extras of those. Anyone out there sell ALU front up rights?


just my little story. haha


George

[tranced]

this is why i always tighten the wheel nuts after every couple tanks.

lol nice story. im surprised the front wide bumper didnt help that at all

[waileun]

Originally posted by turbochrgdRICE
Hey guys. Does anyone know how to remove a broken hex ball end out of a hex screw? My hex screwdriver end broke off and now it's stuck in the actual hex screw. The problem is that it's stuck in the engine mounts. I may need to remove the engine sometime soon but i dont want to take a dremel to it. The reason why I might have to remove the engine is because I'm on my 4th tank and for the first three tanks the piston has been getting stuck at the top of the sleeve after I bump start it. The starter box can't turn over the engine so I have to remove the engine then turn the flywheel by hand. And now that the hex end is stuck I'm going to have a problem.




thnx

If you only have one broken screws, just removed the rest. then use a twisting action on the engine and the mount. the screw should come loose after a few twists.

[tranced]

if its a ball end, get a magnet and that should do it. if the driver stripped right at the point where the ball end tapers off it should come off fine.

[turbochrgdRICE]

Originally posted by tranced
if its a ball end, get a magnet and that should do it. if the driver stripped right at the point where the ball end tapers off it should come off fine.

the only problem is that the way it broke makes it stuck really tight. You know how after you use the hex screwdrives or wrenches you have to like jiggle the screwdriver/wrench out? Well it's stuck it there like that because when I was tightening the hex the tip broke off. I tried a magnet but it wont work since the hex end is lodged in the screw. I may try what waileun said but I don't have a need to remove the engine right now. Maybe if I run the car more the vibration from the engine will vibrate the hex end out.

[turbochrgdRICE]

Is anyone here running a MR12 engine? If so, do you know what the stock settings are? and how many turns out are you running? I heard that the stock settings are about 4.5 turns out. Isn't that really really rich though? Well anyways. I turned mine in about 5/8 or so inward from stock settings but the LHS dude said that the settings were lean already. He said that it should be about flush with the top, but that would be too rich rite? So I'm not sure about what I should do. When I checked the temp, the idle was about 160° and after I ran the engine at full throttle for awhile it was up to 240°. The LHS guy said that my idle temp should be around 175-180°, and after some full speed runs about 235°.

Can somebody please tell me their settings on their MR12?

thnx

[us_matrix]

Hi all MTX-3 guys,

I am ready to order these as spare parts, If there is anything else will break most easily and i should keep as spare ? Please advise.
For Dog Bone... u guys use o-ring or just replace w/Universal?
If Universal which brand you guys recommand 3Racing or Mugen ? Mugen Price is double.

Front/Rear Upgright
Front/Rear lower arm tower
Front A-Arm
3 Racing Universal or Mugen Universal ?

Anything else ???

Very appreciate

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Which FOAM tire are you guys using??? Can i use other brand like JACO instead of MUGEN FAST TIRE? Because I heard that Mugen suggest using -2 degree offset which Only MUGEN Fast tire is -2 degree offset.

Thanks.

[tekrsq]

There seems to some durability issues with the 3racing universals. The Mugen ones are much better but will still break if you hit something hard enough.

I have ran the Jacos with no problem. The fronts fit fine, but get the rears with the 2mm offset. I typically run either Super G (from Speedline) or the Fast tires.

[alvinm]

You put it politely about the 3racing universals.I've gone through two sets,they either come apart or the cup just crumbles.I've heard about the mugen universals coming apart but are more durable.Its funny because I had the mtx2 uni's on my impulse and had absolutely no problems with them.Has anyone tried adapting these on the the 3?

[TSR6]

I use the Mugen CV's, no problems yet.

I've used Nitro Shoes, with the 2offset, but prefer the FAST foams over Nitro Shoes.

the guys on rctech.net have been talking about the 3racing CV's lately too..

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by TSR6
the guys on rctech.net have been talking about the 3racing CV's lately too..

3Racing CVD's are cheaper than the Mugen ones, but they are brittle and easy to break after some time of use or if you rub a board, Mugens are a little more durable, ended using Mugen ones, at final are cheaper than 3Racing and don't break as easily.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by tekrsq
I have ran the Jacos with no problem. The fronts fit fine, but get the rears with the 2mm offset. I typically run either Super G (from Speedline) or the Fast tires.

Tried some a pair of times NS, but rears blowed due to a faulty glueing, like how handles the fronts, but wasn't much convinced how gripped the rears. Prefeer to use Italian makers (Enetti or Ellegis as a last resort).

Yesterday an HS passed me a pair of set from MicroSystem tyres for 200mm cars, he wanted to try them. Rim is very ugly but he assured me that is one of the best and durable rims, and the foam is real good (they have special compounds for wet and dusty tracks, need to try these in the future...).

The website is http://www.micro-systems.fr

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Corse-R
3Racing CVD's are cheaper than the Mugen ones, but they are brittle and easy to break after some time of use or if you rub a board, Mugens are a little more durable, ended using Mugen ones, at final are cheaper than 3Racing and don't break as easily.

Which is why I went with the Mugen CV's instead of 3Racing.

:D

[Sparx]

I hope my MTX-3 shows up in the week so i can start build it! :)

[mugenseike]

I would like to get the cvd's for mtx-3... a link might be good.
-mugen

[TSR6]

Originally posted by mugenseike
I would like to get the cvd's for mtx-3... a link might be good.
-mugen

www.speedtechrc.com

[mugenseike]

thank's.
-mugen

[TSR6]

Originally posted by mugenseike
thank's.
-mugen

no prob!

[alvinm]

Has anyone found the cheapest online store for parts.I've been using ace hardware because of the cheap shipping but i know theres some hong kong stores that are cheaper but take forever to get here and shipping is outrageous.Any others/

[tekrsq]

www.nitrohouse.com
www.speedline-rc.com (website is outdated, just get the phone# and call them)
www.justrc.com
www.ashfordhobby.com
www.microrcshop.com
www.speedtechrc.com

[alvinm]

How about some chasis tuning tips,any sites with them?

[mckrooz]

Anyone know where to find parts for the MR12? I'm specifically looking for the turbo button head.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Anyone know where to find parts for the MR12? I'm specifically looking for the turbo button head.

Have you tried Nitrohouse?

[mckrooz]

I did. They only have Mugen kits.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by mckrooz
I did. They only have Mugen kits.

Call Mugen, They should be able to direct you to someone who has them in stock. :)

[StevePond]

How's everyone doing with thier car? I've been running mine and it's completely dialed.

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by StevePond
How's everyone doing with thier car? I've been running mine and it's completely dialed.

Overall, I LOOOOOVE this car. I developed an on-power push last race that I couldn't get rid of. Not sure what changed to make it push, but I chased it all day. I think I'm going to try either 100,000 wt oil or my solid rear this week to see what happens.

[StevePond]

Tek - try installing some 0-offset front wheels. I put some on my car with the box stock set-up, and my car has mad on-power steering.

[tekrsq]

Thanks Steve...I've been running 0 offset on the front, and like you, had plenty of on-power steering. Ran my "standard setup" last week and developed the push early in the day, chased it all day, but ran best I could with it. I've ran that setup a bunch of times at this track with no problems, so I'm not sure why things changed so much. I'm in the process of breaking down the car to see if I can find something.

[StevePond]

You might have ended up with a pair of front tires that were mislabeled or were just from a funky batch of foam. Did you try different front tires and get the same result?

[tekrsq]

Actually, I did change tires, but it didn't hit me until just now. I was running "scrub" tires on the rear, and was putting new ties on the front. I forgot to true them down to match the rears, so I guess the under-drive was making it push.

Sometimes it amazes me how you forget the simple, obvious stuff sometimes. :eek: :o

[carlos_rico]

hello everybody
I live in bogota colombia in south america, I want to buy a mugen mtx3 but I saw that now it have the mt 12 engine and no the mr 12 that supposed to be more powerful.
I want a kit whit the best engine, but I need to know what I need to put this car in the track, like radio, fuel and all that stuff
thanks

carlos

[StevePond]

I would suggest any decent FM radio, a high-performance steering servo, and any good fuel with 20% nitro.

[carlos_rico]

thanks but I need to know which one is the best engine the mr 12 or the mt 12.

[morlock]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
thanks but I need to know which one is the best engine the mr 12 or the mt 12.

I have seen people race both the MR12 and the MT12. The MR seems to have a little more power. But if you can only get a hold of the MT12 don't worry, it is an excellent engine. They are easy to tune, hold a tune well, and I think are a very good deal.

I did not know you could buy the kit with either engine. I thought it was only available with the mr12. If you can buy the kit that comes with the engine, it should also come with the pipe and manifold (the part that connects the pipe to the engine like a connecting piece).

Computer translated SPANISH:

He visto la carrera de gente ambos el MR12 y el MT12. El SR parece tener un pequeño más poder. Pero si usted puede sólo obtiene un asidero del MT12 no preocupa, es un motor excelente. Ellos son fáciles de afinar, tener un aire bien, y yo pienso son un trato muy bueno.

Yo no supe que usted podría comprar el juego con cualquier motor. Yo lo pensé estaba sólo disponible con el mr12. Si usted puede comprar el juego que viene con el motor, debe venir también con el tubo y múltiple (la parte que conecta el tubo al motor como un pedazo que conecta).

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by carlos_rico
thanks but I need to know which one is the best engine the mr 12 or the mt 12.

I have both engines...Box stock, the MT12 has more low end punch than the MR12. However, the MR12 seems to have slightly more top end. I also have modded MT12s & MR12s. Both engines are VERY close on the top end, but the MT12 still has noticeably more bottom end.

Remember, you can change gearing to supplement an engine's weak (or strong) points.

[StevePond]

Agreed. Don't spend too much time worrying about the difference between these two engines. They're both very good.

[7pluts23]

what engine does it come with beacuse some places say it comes with mt-12 and some say mr-12?

[StevePond]

I was told that the kits are currently coming with either version of the engine. Some are coming with the MT, others the MR.

[speedydave]

How are you supposed to know which one you're gonna get? Is it just random?

[7pluts23]

does the mtx-3 come with a body?
If so what body?

Also

What stuff do nedd to buy with the kit w/engine? Other than radio equipment and starter box.

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by StevePond
I was told that the kits are currently coming with either version of the engine. Some are coming with the MT, others the MR.

When the car first came out, the first 200 kits in the U.S were supposed to come with the MR12 TURBO. All subsequent kits were supposed to come with the "standard" MR12. I was told (by Mugen USA), that somewhere during production Mugen ran short on MR12 engines. So to keep production of the cars moving forward, they stuck in the big head version of the MT12 engines.

I bought 2 kits as soon as they were released, both came with turbo MR12 engines, as advertised. A couple of guys have bought cars in the last 2-4 months, and both of those came with the big head MT12 engines.

[rc10t3racer]

7pluts23

The MTX-3 does not come with a body. Besides the electronics (battery, servos, servo horns, rx, ...) that is all you will need.

It comes with the engine goodies such as the manifold, tuned pipe, exhaust coupler, etc...

Enjoy

[7pluts23]

how fast does it go w/mr12?

[rc10t3racer]

7pluts23,

I've never used radar to get an exact speed. And I've never trusted people who just say it goes Xmph. None of us are good enough to guess the speed of a car just by watching it.

My track has a very long back straight and the car has plenty of legs. The MR12 is a top-end engine and does well.

If you're driving on a track (depending on the track) top speed isn't really an issue.

If you're racing your buddies up and down a parking lot, top speed is an issue.

How do you plan on using your MTX-3?

Good Luck

[rc10t3racer]

MTX-3 Hop Ups?

Since the car is new, there aren't many Hop-ups for the MTX-3. I have only made a few to mine.

I've done the following:
- Kawahara Aluminum Pulleys
- Kawahara Roll Bar and Mount

I had to replace one of the pulleys because it got damaged by the pipe, so I replaced the rest. They're more durable, but there is no performance gain/loss.

The Roll Bar and Mount are great. The stock plastic one is flimsy and a bit on the low side (doesn't protect the head very well).

Anyone have any good/bad experiences?

[StevePond]

Kawahara and 3Racing have a whole line of option parts for the MTX-3. The pulleys are a good choice. They're more true than the standard pulleys. I haven't tried all the option parts myself, but I'm sure there are others that are worthwhile from these two companies.

www.rcimports.net

www.rchub.com - go to E-Shop and select "hop-ups"

[BigR]

I've just added a new engine to my MTX-3. I went with the NovaMax MX12 Max5 MF engine which is actually a NovaRossi NS12 hand tuned by Massimo Fantini.

Just broke in the engine last week and will evaluate on how it does. My MTX-3 is "hopped" up with front cvds, titanium middle-shaft, 0.8 gear modules, a lola handle, RB x12 exhaust, aluminium screws on top, Ti screws on the chasis and lightneded first and second gear housings.

Will post pictures shortly when I get my digital camera working again.

[Im2lazy]

Originally posted by StevePond
Kawahara and 3Racing have a whole line of option parts for the MTX-3. The pulleys are a good choice. They're more true than the standard pulleys. I haven't tried all the option parts myself, but I'm sure there are others that are worthwhile from these two companies.

www.rcimports.net

www.rchub.com - go to E-Shop and select "hop-ups" Well, sorry to go against you, but most are extremely dissatisfied with these. What happens is, within two months of rigorous racing, the profile of the pulley teeth becomes considerably sharper, until they become so sharp, they just start eating the belts like nothing else. Everyone I know has just chucked them and went back to the stock pulleys. Not saying Kawahara and 3Racing make junk stuff, much to the contrary, but not when it comes to these little pulleys.

But I believe that Square Racing makes some slightly better pulleys, though they are considerably harder to get a hold of. I've got a set on my MTX2 for the past year with no problems. But I would still advise just sticking to the stock deal.


And, I have to say that the MTX3 actually has too many hopups... who needs an aluminum body standoff?

Here are what I feel are the most necessary hopups... Mugen aluminum hexes (along with the thick silver washers that go behind the hex). Using this, you can sock the wheel nuts down as hard as you like, and you won't cause a single bit of binding in the drive train.
The second would be Mugen universals for the front. If you hit something (another car, track boundary, etc.) while you are at full lock, the stock front dogbones will eject themselves, especially when using the 'A' ackerman steering bellcrank.
Also, last would be the Teflon brake pads. They are yellow, and are soooooooo much better than the stock pads. The stock pads have poor modulation. They really lock up the brakes, but they are more on/off than anything else. The brake pads help, especially if you use the one-way... because, while some racers say you can't... you absolutely have to be able to brake with a one-way in your car. If not, you won't be very fast.


edited because I missed a word

[Im2lazy]

Originally posted by rc10t3racer
...My track has a very long back straight and the car has plenty of legs. The MR12 is a top-end engine and does well.

If you're driving on a track (depending on the track) top speed isn't really an issue...
Lets just say 7pluts23, the car can go fast enough to get scary.


But rc10t3racer, I have to slightly disagree about top speed not being an issue on a track...

Example, August 30-31 was the Hawaii State Nitro Touring Championship. I run an MTX2 in both Stock class (rubber tires, ROAR legal motor) and also in Modified class (foam tires, any .12 motor). And I have to say, I got my car handed to me on the straight. I qualified 2nd in both classes (I changed tires in between heats... foams for mod, rubber for stock) and I've got a pretty decent MR12 in my car. Well the TQ in both classes happened to have a RS12 5port turbo and a NS12 ROAR legal motors. Along with THE ABSOLUTE BEST PIPE I'VE EVER SEEN, the OS T1030 triple chamber pipe. (better than anything else... and at our track, we've tried a lot, RB, Yokomo, RDLogics, none compare. All the guys with some money buy this now... not me apparently lol :( )
Well, now to the story... I made a pass on the leader coming on to the straightaway. It was so clean that five feet after the exit of the sweeper, I was ahead by 10 feet... 40 feet later, he passed me just by motor and pipe combo. By the end of the straight, he 10 feet ahead again. He had a bad run onto the straight (because of the move I made coming into the sweeper and through it) and still, purely through HP, he made 20 feet up on me. The straight is around 180 feet long, corner to corner, so it is long and we winded out, but HP does mean quite a bit....


But I still won Mod:D ... and had a chance in Stock, but my servo crapped out in the middle of the day, and I had to make a quick fix... (it was a JR 4750 too... $100:( ). It isn't all horsepower, but it can make or break it for you if your on the line.
And after all of that, I hope you see my point, because I think I've forgotten it... reminiscing... that was a fun weekend:) .

[Digit]

just thought i would let you guys know, this place apperently sells the MTX-3 with a 5-port Novarossi engine for $539!! they also have MANY 3-racing aluminum parts for dirt cheap. i recently bought a crapload of al. parts (including a 4mm chassis w/mounts from 3 racing for 30bux!) and everything was great! they are in Hong Kong, so shipping takes a little extra, but it is well worth it!
the place is dinballl r/c mart (http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_327&products_id=4144)

[rcracer12345]

hello
i have recently bought a MTX-3, but am having trouble with finding a set-up. Everywhere ive read people have been saying the the MTX-3 handles great out of the box with the kit set-up, but my car doesnt seem to. It will under-steer coming into a corner, and then when u pull on the throttle coming out of a corner the back end comes out and it just does donuts.

Did anybody else have this problem when they forst tried the mugen? what did u do to over come the problem?

thanks in advance

[StevePond]

Give is some information on your set-up and the track in relation to the amount of bite. Also, tell me if you've driven a car with a front one-way before.

As I recall, the stock set-up is pretty hooked up, but maybe leaning towards pretty aggressive steering (which I like). I didn't have a problem with the rear washing out on power, but that may just be a quirk with the set-up.

[rcracer12345]

The track probably isnt the best for traction, some times on a warmer day the track can heat up a bit, but there never a whole lot of traction. Ever since i started racin ive raced with a diff in the front, ive tryed a one way a few times but can never get the hang of it.

The car is pretty much the stock set-up. Tried roll bars, it handles a bit better with the rear one off, but is still taily.

If there is any one who uses gear diffs front and rear what oils are you using?

[StevePond]

Ahhhhh, you're using a gear diff in the front - that's at least one reason why it's pushing. Gear diffs introduce front wheel braking, which mean you have to do all your braking in a straight line. If you're still on the brakes when you start turning, you're not going to have very good steering. If you're more comfortable with the gear diff and have to stick with it, a lighter fluid 1000wt will provide better steering on corner entry, but you're going to lose a lot of drive coming out of the faster corners. The front diff will unload to the inside wheel and there's not going to be thick diff fluid to keep it from happening. At the other extreme, heavy diff fluid (10,000+) will give you better drive out of the corners, but off-power steering will suffer. I prefer a one-way in most curcumstances. It allows you to use the brake to get the car to rotate in the corners because there's only rear wheel braking. A one-way also maximizes on-power steering and improves acceleration out of high-speed corners.

Without seeing the set-up, I don't really know what to tell you about the rear end being loose. Make sure your camber is set to about 2 degrees and set the rear end to about 3 degrees of toe per side. This will give the car a little more rear bite. Hope this helps.

[raffaelli]

Hey Steve,

When are you going to bring your dialed MTX to the Hobby Chamber again? Interested in seeing how my dialed MTx is against yours...the track is fast now 6 second laps!

[StevePond]

If you're going, just let me know and I'll make it a point to meet you there. I'll bring along Raul. :D The schedule is a little tight this time of the year, but I'll come up as long as I'm in town.

[raffaelli]

Steve,

Raul, Carl and I are heading to the Chamber on Saturday. Can you make it?

[mandinho]

hi everbody, im from portugal!!I dont know , what choice to make !! for my new mtx 3, Jp turbo or the Rex???are any motors better?!??? i hope some answer ... :confused: :confused: :D ( sorry about my English... [[[]]]

[Im2lazy]

JP motors are massaged (modified in a couple ways) while Rex is straight from the factory Novarossi power... so I'd say JP if you can spring for it (if these are the same engine models).

[Wilso]

Hi people i was looking at buying a MTX-3, as a kit from rcmart.com

Package Included:
MTX-3 1/10 Scale Gas Powered 4WD Touring Car
NOVAROSSI (#RS-12 T5S1) 5 Ports Engine
Fast Tires: Front Foam Tire -42deg (#FVW04F); Rear Foam Tire -42deg (FVW5F)

and

MTX-3 Kit with
MS12 5 Ports Turbo Engine
Calsten Tuned Pipe
GRP Foam Tyre Set

from another place thy are both $550 USD
What are some option parts that you ppl in RC LAND recommend
im willing to spend an extra $100 USD

What do you guys recommend

Post and Ideas Guys

Thanks

Wilso
Down Under Racer.

[tekrsq]

Personally, I'm not too impressed with the JP engines. Too much money for the small difference in power.

Wilso,

You really do not NEED any hop ups. The car is awesome right out of the box. A couple of thngs to "help" the car would be CVDs, and the aluminum wheel hexes and side brace. Other than that, I wouldn't worry about it if you are just club racing. However, if you're really into eye candy, then there are plenty of "pretties" to put on the car. Also, if you race, there are a few things that might work for you (like the 16/19 overdrive conversion), but aren't necessities to be competitve.

[josephkim]

is the mtx-3 compareable to the serpent 710 and hpi r40? Are all these cars similar in performance?

[tekrsq]

I have not had my hands on the 710 yet, but I can say this...all "pro-level" cars are pretty much equal in performance. Some may be slightly easer to work on, set-up, etc, but performance will be about the same once properly set up.

[Digit]

hey, just a quick question, why is it that the style of fast tires the mtx-3 uses are designated as "only for the mtx-3"??? they seem to work normally on my R40, whats the deal?

[tekrsq]

They will fit any touring car with standard hexes. They say "MTX-3 only" because when the MTX-3 was first released, it was the only car that needed offset rear rims to run 30mm tires. To use them on other brand cars would put them over 200mm wide. It also changes the roll center of the car and changes handling characteristics.

I believe the "Fast" brand tires still require the offset rims for the rear of the MTX-3. There are other brands that redesigned their rims and will fit fine.

[mckrooz]

Anyone have any input on this? Running a 19t front pulley and 16t rear side pulley and a smaller belt to solve the overdrive problem with the Mtx-3. I've read and noticed that my rear tires are wearing awfully quick compared to the fronts which look almost new. I've been told that I HAVE to true the fronts to run it. I've asked guys at my track and they have no idea about the conversion and suggested I run harder rears. They say "It's just something you have to deal with." With my V-One R, there is a slight overdrive and the tires wear pretty much even.

[laorc]

I am currently running this convertion. So far I like it a lot. The tire wear is evenly front and back. the pulley set for $6.99 and the kawahara belt for $10.99

[Dingus]

Hate to spam the thread, but I've got tons of stock MTX3 parts on ebay right now. My user id is dmong2 or just search for MBX5 and I'll ship internationally.

[SLO NIZ]

Got the car yesterday, ive now spent a total of 18 1/2 hours on the dam thing but owner to find out out i was suppose to super glue the edges of the C/F bits :mad: :mad: :mad: Oh well atleast its all together,.... Must sleeeepppppppppp,.zzzzzzzzzzzzz

[SLO NIZ]

I forgot to put lock tight in the 2spd screw and i was wandering if i could still just unscrew the screw out dab a bit of locktight then put it back in? maybe? no?

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by SLO NIZ
I forgot to put lock tight in the 2spd screw and i was wandering if i could still just unscrew the screw out dab a bit of locktight then put it back in? maybe? no?

You can, but you really need to take it apart and fix it. If not you stand a chance of getting loctite on the springs, ball, etc.

[SLO NIZ]

Thanks tekrsq, i'll pull it out today later on at the track cos i got to start running in me engine anyway and i suppose locktight does just that locks tight :P

BTW does anyone have info on the NSR12?

[SLO NIZ]

Heya, im currently using a standard JR servo for the throttle and a Hitec HS615MG i think it is, its from the discontinued range of Hitec but was told to get cos it was cheap and its better than a standard one. Is there anyway i could speed things up using these servos with my jr xs3? Or do i just have to get ultra speed servos or something?

[tekrsq]

You can't do anything to help those servos. Just buy better ones. Why trust your $800 car with $20 servos?? I run Hitec 645mg throttle/ 5625 steering, AND a failsafe.

[SLO NIZ]

Originally posted by tekrsq
You can't do anything to help those servos. Just buy better ones. Why trust your $800 car with $20 servos?? I run Hitec 645mg throttle/ 5625 steering, AND a failsafe.

Is me HS615MG s that bad? Hm,. Digital servos, i heard they really chew through ur bat pack. Will a futaba s9402 be ok? Its a quick speed but still analog. But if i do get digital will my xr3 hav the functions to utilise the a dig servo?

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by SLO NIZ
Is me HS615MG s that bad? Hm,. Digital servos, i heard they really chew through ur bat pack. Will a futaba s9402 be ok? Its a quick speed but still analog. But if i do get digital will my xr3 hav the functions to utilise the a dig servo?

I also have the xs3 and I do believe that it has an option to run digital servos. I think it's called High frame rate or something like that. I don't have the manual in front of me.

[SLO NIZ]

Cool i've jst got a futaba S9402 (H/speed H/torque) for the steering :D Turns like nobodies business, i was wandering does this mean my cars gonna handle different now? Will it take much more juice from the battery pack?

Anyone have any info on the NSR12?

[SLO NIZ]

I bought my xs3 in the 27mhz range and theres like a good 2 3 ppl at my local track using the same freq :( So i was wandering if u could change the module?

[tekrsq]

The XS 3 is synthesized. You simply change the frequency in the menu on the transmitter, then either change the frequency on the rx or change the crystal (depending which type of rx you have). There is no module to buy. If you want to go to 75mhz, then I'm pretty sure you have to buy another transmitter. The XS3 also has a feature to turn down the "speed" of the servo response (which makes the car less twitchy), but I don't remember what they call it. Most radios call it expotential.

As for servos, I can't comment on the Futaba's, I don't run them. However, from what I understand, they are good servos. Yes digital servos (of any brand) will put more of a drain on the rx pack. That's why you only run one-- for steering. You don't absolutely need a digital, but I like the precision.

The NSR12 is truly a beast, and not for the inexperienced tuner or driver.

[SLO NIZ]

My xs3 is the non-synthesized version :( Oh well i suppose im gonna have to fork out more dough for xtra xstals then.

I just got a futaba s9402 non digital and i suppose it does the job ok cos it's actually got a fair bit of torque and speed so yeah im happy with it.

I've been told its a really grunty engine from the rossi range and yes i think im as UN-experienced as they come but im lucky enough to have dis guy at the track i go to thats won the New Zealand championships and stuff so he tunes and gives me a hand on the car :p

p.s here in nz we've got this thing called the "Ultimate Open" and its the biggest in nz but because i've just got me mtx3 i havent really gotten use to it to compete but hey, there's always nxt year

Cheers for info again

[mckrooz]

All the XS3's are synthesized. You have the 27Mhz which only allows 6 channels. Not good if you have alot of off road people where you race. If you wanted to go to 75mhz, you'd have to get a new transmitter and receiver. There is no module to change.

[SLO NIZ]

Crap! Near to my running in process i've managed to go thru a plug cos apparently it as a little lean, either that or i gave it too much throttle. Today my 1st gear pinion fell off so i had to put a little dab of super glue on it then the spur gear fell off cos i was told there was no play at all on the spur gear, oh yeah to top things off this newbie crashed into my car breaking off this knob thingy on the rear arm where the rear roll bar screws onto.

argh!!!! one more thing guys, the servo adapters are u suppose to use A,B or C? My local tracks got 1 short strait and the rest is really slow and pretty much a technical infield, so me thinks to use A?


Cheers

[tekrsq]

That sucks....

If the pinion gear came off, then you had it screwed on backwards. Turn it around and try it again.

If the spur gear came off, either you lost the e-clip that holds the mount on the shaft, or you lost the screws that hold the gear onto the mount. It just doesn't "come off".

The "servo adaptor" are actually Ackerman setting plates. Without getting technical, they basically help control steering angles, which translates into steering responsiveness. In short, "A" makes the car more responsive, "C" makes the car least responsive. www.rctek.com is full of info on different handling characteristics.

[SLO NIZ]

Wish me luck everyone, my clubs season kicks of this Sunday so yeah ill be running the mtx-3 for the first time for points. By rights i should have a little advantage because the whole field is running mainly v-one-rr and 1 guy thats running the new serpent with this jp engine, i dont know whether to go full song at the start or just wait after the big pile-up :D

one last thing, yesterday at the track this newbie stalled on the straight and i just so happened to be flying round the corner full speed and ploughed right into him, we checked my chassis and its bent just a slight fraction at the very front and would like to know if it would change anything? Its only a slight bend and only when put a ruler on it then u can see it so yeah just a little bend upwards.

Cheers

[tekrsq]

If your car has enough ass to get out in front, then go for it. BUUUUUT, if it doesn't, then hang in the center of the pack until you get through the inevitable pile of cars in the first turn, then let her eat.

The bent chassis will affect the car. As to how much, it depends where, how much, & the direction of the bend.

[racecar850]

http://www.msnusers.com/14eir7qf70da2hv4h7tnjenik3/Documents/Pictures%2FDSCF1297.JPG

Heres mine...hope to put first run on it this coming weekend

[mckrooz]

I agree with waiting a bit at the start of the race. I qualified 8th at my last race and after the first turn I was in 3rd. Never dropped below 5th during the race and finished 2nd in the A-main.

[mckrooz]

Here's my body after the race. I had to do a body quick and couldn't make it to the LHS to get some lexan paint so the houseold paint chipped. :(

[mckrooz]

....

[mckrooz]

Custom 5th body post.

[mckrooz]

Powerplant. NS12S5.

[mckrooz]

Lowered throttle servo.

[tekrsq]

Nice looking car !!

[SpeedLine]

YO its the best

[SpeedLine]

Ive had a V ONE RR But the mugan is the bomb

[rcabj]

hello..i'm thinking off getting a used mtx3....

i have 1 questions about tires ( foam) ...does every brand of foam tires with
whatever offset/no offset can fit to the mtx3 ?

just need to be sure...my current kit gs have to use offset tyres or another way is to trim a little the rear knuckle..

thanks.. :) ...

[PaulH]

Most of the good foam tires are made by GRP, regardless of the name on the box. Mugen sell GRP tires under the name "Fast Tires". I have used them and they are very good.

"Action" is another GRP-made tire. You can find these for around $15/pair, which is a really good price. http://www.ashfordhobby.com/ carries a variety of tire brands and sizes.

[LoSick]

Hi Mugen Men! My new mtx3 with mt 12 will arrive next week. I´d really appreciate if you help me with some answers.
1) the rx battery is 3plus2 hump type, must be aa or aaa?
2) gear mesh possible combination, my track is huge and has 400 feet straights?
3) rear wheels with zero offset fit? if not up to what offset?
4) thinking of rd logics 81623 universals only for front, is it good?
5) what kind of material are the pulleys?
6) if racing once a week, how long will the belt last?
forry for too many questions! I´m two weeks away for any mugen part to arrive and wanna be prepared for any eventuality,

[LoSick]

forgot to mention, is it possible to switch the mt12 head with a turbo like my sirio evo?, having a turbo head increases performance up 5%

[GramdeGixxer]

I just sold my NTC3 and am looking for a nice MTX3 anyone looking to part with theirs pm me.

[GramdeGixxer]

Got a smokin deal on eb*y. 325 shipped brand new kit.

[GramdeGixxer]

is this thread officially dead?

[rcabj]

yes..it does look rather unlively....check out rctech...i find theirs is reasonably lively...

[evanb]

This is the rex/Novarossi .21 Inline Pipe and header for a 1/8 scale Buggy , its polished finish and has only been run about 5 tanks. Mint condition

$90 shipped

[GramdeGixxer]

why would we want a .21 pipe on an mtx3 thread?

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys i just got a used kit from a racing buddy.

He has done some good mods to the car but a second opinion is always nice.
I hate asking these questions but im new to this car. Not racing just the car. Is there anything really worth getting? like the front universals, chassis stiffners, ect...
the car is all together right now with all my running gear in it waiting for saturday night. hope it turns out good!

Brian~

[GramdeGixxer]

Brian, I'm telling kevin. j/k. I think as long as you put the fuel tubing in the front diff outdrives you shouldnt need the universals. good luck tonight. Joe.

[mckrooz]

Brian, I'm telling kevin. j/k. I think as long as you put the fuel tubing in the front diff outdrives you shouldnt need the universals. good luck tonight. Joe.


I would get the universals. They are cheap and well worth it. I got the RD Logics unis and they are still fine with no bends after 6 mos. The fuel tubing in the outdrives is a quick fix but I've had the bones pop out before. You'd have to run your track narrow to totally prevent the bones from falling out.

[rcabj]

since i am new with this mtx3....how do u seasons mtx owner find the

performance wuth the stock gearing...thank u

[GramdeGixxer]

I just got my mtx3. upgraded from a ntc3. I thought the gearing was fine for a small to medium size track. the track i run on is pretty small and i had plenty of gear left at the end of the straight. only reason to change gearing is if you are on a very large track.

[nitroguy2001]

hey all last night was my first race with the mtx-3 and wow was it good. i had some setup help, and it took a while to get used to the car but holy cow. the laps were just clicking off. to bad turbo plug motor are retarded and are super finiky to temp changes. so it flamed out, but the car was more like a slot car than an rc car. hopfully it stays this fast

Brian~

[rcabj]

hello...just like to share this with u guys...

i only got the mtx3 (used not new ) around a few weeks back.

haven't got much practice with it be4 entering the race(last sunday)...

and guess what....i qualified 10th in the A main....b4 with another kit i was always going through the d's and b's mains...i think the car might have improve half a second on my driving.. :)

[PhsykoManMKAO]

thinking of buying an mtx-3.
well. definately buying an mtx-3. is it worth the extra 100 for the prospec kit? seems like it comes with tons of extras.
this will be my first touring car. and maybe my only.

anyone have an average price on the jp .12? is it below 200? or atleast ~200

has anyone tried the mugen comp. pipe yet? they sure look nice, but do they work well?

going to get the protoform stratus body. i have candy purple and metallic black paint for the main body color, then a bit of pin striping with flour. blue. should i back it with white or black? got a can of pactra window tint to try out on the body. has anyone tried this. sounds pretty cool

[darkangel]

I am currently running the Prospec kit and I am very pleased with it. Do you need the all the stuff that comes with it, no, but it is nice. It is worth the extra $100 to $125 extra when you start looking at getting universals all around and a 4 mm chassis (which were some of my requirements when I switched from the GS Vision Pro).

For a JP engine, you are looking at $350 + (probably a little over $400). The average new Novarossi engine goes for around $250 and the cheapest nova based motor is the RB V12 at around $210. If you're just getting into onroad, you might be better off with an OS TR (including the new one) until you're able to handle the extra power that comes with a stock nova based motor and then move on to a high end mod motor.

Rcabj,

Congrads on your Amain showing, I'm still working on it (need a little more throttle control, my new engine is still a tad bit on the strong side for me :D ) I will see how I'll do the next two races.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

wow :eek: $350+!!! they actually sell for retail price?
guess i'll get the mt or mr12 for starters.
one more question does the pro-spec come with a rear gear diff ball diff or solid axle?

[darkangel]

Yeah, they go for that price. Pretty insane, but the power is insane to go along with it. The MT12 or MR12 are a decent start, not too overpowering. The new OS TR that is coming out is suppose to be pretty good and will be about $200.

None of the current touring cars come with a rear solid axle as a standard feature. The Prospec comes with the sealed diff (not a ball diff). Not sure I would want a solid axle on a touring car.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

Yeah, they go for that price. Pretty insane, but the power is insane to go along with it. The MT12 or MR12 are a decent start, not too overpowering. The new OS TR that is coming out is suppose to be pretty good and will be about $200.

None of the current touring cars come with a rear solid axle as a standard feature. The Prospec comes with the sealed diff (not a ball diff). Not sure I would want a solid axle on a touring car.
thanks for the help. is there an aftermarket ball bearing diff? i mean a gear diff is fine with me, but it is quite weighty, but i probably couldnt tell much of a difference anyhow..

im going to go with jr servos. in a touring car speed is more important than torque. should stay about 80 on torque and under .15 on speed right? i cant dish out the cash for digital servos, but i do want a decent set in their. being young and having multiple cars to take care of is hard on the wallet, yet it seems to be a family trait of ours that if your going to get something, get the best and forget the rest.

[darkangel]

sorry, no optional ball diff :p The stock one isn't that big or that heavy, just be sure to put some silicone sealer on the gasket (need to do that to mine).

I'm running the Futaba 9451 for steering and Futaba 3010 for throttle. If you can afford it you want a good high speed/high torque (.10 sec/85 oz) for the steering. You don't need anything too fancy for the throttle servo. I ran with the Futaba 3003 and it was just fine for throttle/brake, I just wanted a little more holding power for the brake. Btw.. the Futaba 9451 should run you around $80 + maybe a Futaba 3003 (or one of the servos from your radio system = $0) for approx $15 and you won't need anything more to keep up with the fast guys (at least as far as electronics go)

Yeah, understand about split responsibilities. I'm currently saving for a nice new car but still want to make sure I have enough to race as well.

[BigR]

My MTX-3.

Engine - NovaMax .12 P5
Throttle Servo - ERG-VB
Steering Servo - ERG-WRX

Mods - Solid Rear Axle by Kawahara
- 3 racing universal drive shafts
- Ti Middle Rod
- Ti Ball Joints

[BigR]

Next Image

[BigR]

Last image

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys i had a problem the other day. my second gear keeps getting eaten up. the mesh is set good both 1st and 2nd. my thought was that it was shifting to early, and putting to much strain on the gear, but its just buggin me cuz it took me out of the main. the wierd thing was is that 1st gear is fine. im pretty sure that the gears are the correct size for eachother.

any ideas would be greatly apreciated
Brian~

[rcabj]

sorry pic quality not very good :)

[rcabj]

...rear end

[rcabj]

...3rd pic ;)

[rcabj]

the tarmac in the picture is not a track whatsoever...

if it was i think have to use 70-100 shore tires :D

[GramdeGixxer]

brian, make sure you have the same tooth split between the pinions and spurs. ie. 20-47, 22-45

[ole]

Hi! I'm planning to buy the mtx3 not the prospec type. What are the most important hopups do i get?

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i cant decide if i want the ntc3, r40, or the mtx-3. i dont want a car that the company is going to update as soon as i buy it, how long until the mtx-3 will be updated with something newer, like an mtx-4. i know they just came out with the prospec, so does thst mean it should be around for a while?
the thing most important to me is the quality of the car and how its built, im guessing that would be the mtx-3 out of these 3 cars. but i really like the new r40 as well, its a good design, but its their first competition car so im guessing that it will be replaced in a year or 2 with something newer, like they do with their pro-series electric cars.

then there is the ntc3, i like that the most because its shaft drive.

this is so confusing. i will race it, and the engine i will get is the o.s .12tr or the turbo version. so i just want your opinions on these 3 cars and your likes and dislikes of each, thanks.

[GramdeGixxer]

out of the 3, get the mtx3. the r40 is ok but not as easy to hook up. I just upgraded from a ntc3. spent way too much money to get it close to a stock mtx3. and it still was a very fragile car. the shaft drive is ok but the belt drive is just as good. plus the mtx3 has gear diffs which are totally bulletproof. they shouldn't need to be rebuilt for at least a year. go with the mtx3, its just an all around better car.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

i've read that the mugen requires a 2mm offset on the wheels? im going to be running on unprepared surfaces so i dont want to use foams. what kinda of wheels/rubber tires work well with the mtx3?
edit: http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=2853 anyone see a price lower than 465 for the prospec yet?
also does the kit come with a pipe and header?

[rc addict]

hey im thinkin about gettin a mugen mtx 3 and i know that rc mushroom site too. they haved it for 346, but is the ntc3 factory team kit better? its 350.

[PhsykoManMKAO]

hey im thinkin about gettin a mugen mtx 3 and i know that rc mushroom site too. they haved it for 346, but is the ntc3 factory team kit better? its 350.
the mugen by far is my favorite, the ntc3 is easier to drive, but if you can get the hang of the mugen it will run better lap times. the ntc3's shaft drive is less maintanence than the mugens belts.. with the ntc3 you need a special ntc3 starter box becuase of how the engine is mounted. i like belt drive better, since the engine sits more centered, and since its the heaviest part of the vehicle i like having it balanced in the center. also the fuel tank is more centered. so as you get less fuel in the tank you wont feel as much of a handling change, just a bit more push in the front.

[nitroguy2001]

ok trying to change this thread back to the car it was intended to be about and not as a which car is better thread, have any of you played around with the different blocks in the rear? Just curious on the changes they make.

[carlos_rico]

hi
last weekend I was racing at my local track here in colombia in south america, when I arrived to the track the car was excellent and I made the pole and the track record but when the race started my car turn off and I dont now why I think could be the clucht because it stalls when the car stops.
hope you can help me.

carlos

[PhsykoManMKAO]

hi
last weekend I was racing at my local track here in colombia in south america, when I arrived to the track the car was excellent and I made the pole and the track record but when the race started my car turn off and I dont now why I think could be the clucht because it stalls when the car stops.
hope you can help me.

carlos
you can race and make a track record but you dont know why your engine dies when you stop?
sorry just poking some fun.
turn up the idle adjustment on the carb throat maybe? thats the easiest thing to think of.

[smracer31]

i havent been racing my mtx for a couple months now and when i stopped racing was when i ran into engine problems. My MT 12 had basically died. So now im trying to figure out which engine to get, im looking at the trinity sirio EVO2 5-port with sg shaft. Im wondering how many of you have experience with this engine. Also the reason im not really looking at the MT or MR 12 is cause i get get a hold of one. and if you dont think the sirio is good for the price, can you name something better for the same price, which is like 180, thanks

[offroadcrazy01]

What's wrong with the mugen mt12 I think that's a great engine the only engine I think that might be a little better it a RBx12 look on www.ace-hobbies.com you could try a wasp or if you want a easy engine that does not have to be tuned just right and still runs good try a o.s tr I heard diffrent things about sirio's some bad things and a few good things if you have had less then three years of racing I wound just get the os

[Want MBX-4]

I'm getting my MTX-3 from someone within my state of VA in a couple of days!!! I'm getting with the car: a never started, modified MT-12, foamies, and maybe a pipe and body- all for $330!!!

[evanb]

MTX3 Pro Spec..Loaded and New. Custom Body
I built this kit about a month ago and have ran it 2 times, not even 4 tanks running on the car (besides break-in)

The motor was broken in correctly and has been well maintained for its short use. The car is built as bad as it gets including a super sweet custom body which has never been mounted. I have tons of extra parts.. The car just needs a receiver and transmitter and you will be ready to go race. Everything is in new like condition. $1700 invested below.

Mugen MTX3 Pro Spec
Extra Belts, Extra Gears, Extra Arms - $200 worth of spare
3 Extra set of twister tires (37 shore)

Kawahara Aluminum Rear Chasis Brace

Mugen X12 Motor
Mugen Racing Pipe

2 - Futaba 9451 Digital Servos
Custom Mazda 6 Body (Never mounted)

Ofna Starter Box w/ 2- Viper 3000mah Packs
Racing Dynamics 800mah Receiver Pack

I will sell for $1200

ebalbier@bellsouth.net

[rcabj]

hello...i'm intending to run a lola b/shell on my mugen....what parts do i need to alter/add in order to run them...thank u...

[nitroguy2001]

hello...i'm intending to run a lola b/shell on my mugen....what parts do i need to alter/add in order to run them...thank u...

The only thing i would really recomend is the handle that sticks up over the engine head to protect it in a roll over and to serve as a way to pick the car up. Other then that you should be good to go.


Does anybody truley know what the different roll center blocks in the rear affect. As in the A blocks all the way around does this.....the B blocks all the way around does this and so on. Also the combinations of them.

Brian~

[us_matrix]

Anyone interested please go here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5929328520&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

[rcabj]

The only thing i would really recomend is the handle that sticks up over the engine head to protect it in a roll over and to serve as a way to pick the car up. Other then that you should be good to go.


Does anybody truley know what the different roll center blocks in the rear affect. As in the A blocks all the way around does this.....the B blocks all the way around does this and so on. Also the combinations of them.

Brian~

i myself is rather confuse about them blocks....but must have something to do with the hole for the pins....adjusting the height of the rear end...
:rolleyes:

[KyoshoKev]

hi guys. i am a newbie to 1/10 on road. i got a mtx-3 prospec.

i currently got the one-way in there, but i cant drive the thing!!

i want to change to stadard diffs.

what would be a common diff oil setup?

cheers

[rcabj]

hi guys. i am a newbie to 1/10 on road. i got a mtx-3 prospec.

i currently got the one-way in there, but i cant drive the thing!!

i want to change to stadard diffs.

what would be a common diff oil setup?

cheers

common diff oil is 10K rear and 30K front.............

[I_Like_F150s]

Just got a used MTX-3 and went looking for a instruciton manual. I downloaded both MTX-3 manuals from mugenracing.com, and both have issues (missing pages, edges cut off). Does anyone have a link to a complete MTX-3 manual? Thanks!

[Needler56]

how does everyone feel about the mtx3 out of the box in general? just want to know the pro's and cons.

[rcabj]

how does everyone feel about the mtx3 out of the box in general? just want to know the pro's and cons.

well...4me no complaints whatsoever....or let me put it this way...since i change to this mtx3 my lap times is getting quicker...on durabality issues its tough..i think...haven't broken a single parts...maybe i'm the lucky ones ( i rarely get hit or hit anything..) but anything breaks if u get whack hard enough... :D

the rest really rely on your setups and driving...good luck...

[kicksgalore2005]

wassup guys i just got my mtx3...... what is a good engine to put in it ?

[rcabj]

wassup guys i just got my mtx3...... what is a good engine to put in it ?

so many good engine out there....do u require legal or outlaw?

anyway os,novarossi, and rb's to name a few...good luck...

[ryanD]

a really really good engine for it is the novarossi NSR12S5, its and outlaw engine turbo 5 port, that is what i run. its very fast, easy to tune, idles good, for 245.00 dollars. but if you need a legal engine get the NSR12S3, its a 3 port turbo. you can get them at www.rcmart.com

ryan

[performula]

Someone please explain the 16/19 conversion to me, these are the two pulleys closest to the exhaust correct?

Right now my car has the Kawahara 19T in the rear and Kawahara 24T in the front, what does this combo do?

What are the benefits of each combo and how does the car need to be set-up for each combo?

[evild]

FOR SALE: BRAND NEW MUGEN SEIKI MTX-3 PROSPEC

http://www.evild.com/wegottaracing/mtx3/small/DSC00263_s.jpg

Mugen Seiki MTX-3 Prospec with O.S. 12TZ 3-port and MSR .12 Competition Pipe (P01002) for US$700.00 O.B.O

I'm also including at NO EXTRA COST:
B0217 - Mugen Seiki Power Pack 730 Battery Pack ($34)
B0514 - Mugen Seiki Clutch Spring Adjustment Tool ($30)
MUM3P-1024 - Hexcrews HexHeads Conversion Kit ($13)
FREE SHIPPING!!

DOES NOT INCLUDE PICTURED SERVOS.

I am willing to sell all pieces separately:
MTX-3 Prospec Chassis only for US$470.00 ($490 retail)
O.S. .12TZ 3-port for US$200.00 ($230 retail)
MSR .12 One-piece Competition Tuned Pipe for US$65.00 ($90 retail)


This car has NEVER seen pavement. The engine and pipe HAVE NOT tasted fuel. I put it all together and at the last moment decided I didn't want it any more.

Many photos (1024x768) at http://www.evild.com/wegottaracing/mtx3/

If you have any questions, want even more details or want to make your best offer please email me: mtx3@evild.com

[Mr. Schumacher]

MTX-4 is on its way and that's why people selling their MTX-3.

http://www.mugenseiki.com/mtx4_01.jpg

[2Speed]

MTX-4 won't be available until late summer / early fall at the earliest. What to do till then? Race the best 200mm tourer available... MTX-3!!

[ryanD]

heres a picture of my MTX-3. its alittle dirty because i just got done breaking in my JP FX12 T-05!

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/ryandalnogare/rccars004.jpg

[asw7576]

There seems to some durability issues with the 3racing universals. The Mugen ones are much better but will still break if you hit something hard enough.


This is true, 3Racing universals are made from cheap materials but they market them as hard steel universal :mad: :mad: I bought maybe 12 set and few months later I have only 3 set remaining. 3Racing universals are weaker than Mugen despite fatter looks.

I'm planning to use regular Dogbones ( much stronger ) after my universals stock is depleted.

[brc358]

MTX3, here is one you wont believe. I was running my CD3s at the track about 3 weeks ago, and a guy walked up to me with looked a brand new MTX3,with Novarossi 12,pipe,complete car minus the receiver,plus a huge box full of new foam tires. He neede to sell it that day. After looking at it and the price he wanted, I of course thought it was stolen, but after checking with the owner of the track, he knew the guy selling the car. I bought the complete car,tires,plus a new body for $100.00. I sold the tires about a week later for $70.00 because I already had so many sets. I already had a new Airtronics receiver, so I have $30.00 into a new MTX3. I swapped out the Novarossi for a new SX12 Novarossi, and this thing just runs great. I wish he had more to sell, I would have bought them all. BRC

[SSteady]

The MTX-3 is still a very good and strong car but the MTX4 is here now. I am building one and have posted some pictures with tips and tid-bits at 3hobby.net if you are interested.

Will there be an MTX4 forum thread here? Can someone create it please?

Thanks!

[brc358]

The MTX-3 is still a very good and strong car but the MTX4 is here now. I am building one and have posted some pictures with tips and tid-bits at 3hobby.net if you are interested.

Will there be an MTX4 forum thread here? Can someone create it please?

Thanks!
SSTEADY, I have a couple of MTX3s now, and I am really considering the new MTX4, what do you think of the new car so far. I downloaded the specs. already, but have not seen one as of today. I see that there are quite a few changes. If you did not know the car well, you would not be able to tell some of the changes, but what is your opinion so far? thanks brc

[rcabj]

SSTEADY, I have a couple of MTX3s now, and I am really considering the new MTX4, what do you think of the new car so far. I downloaded the specs. already, but have not seen one as of today. I see that there are quite a few changes. If you did not know the car well, you would not be able to tell some of the changes, but what is your opinion so far? thanks brc

hi there....

yes there r parts different from the x3, and from what i've heard and see 'assembling' the kit ( x4) doesn't have any major issues...can be solve with minor adjustments, also the car in "person" looks more 'aggrassive' .

feedback from few former x3 driver's who has drove the x4 r very positive...

[Josh_C]

Need some advice on whether to have a Novarossi NS12 S3, NSR12S3, RR12LL3 or an OS 12TZ(P) in this car

[Josh_C]

When you apply the brakes, should all four wheels lock, or just the rear. Just put an MTX4 together and only the rear wheels lock, front has no brake but has power.

[brc358]

When you apply the brakes, should all four wheels lock, or just the rear. Just put an MTX4 together and only the rear wheels lock, front has no brake but has power.
The MTX4 should come stock with a front one way. You will not have any braking on the front wheels with a one way. It does take some times getting used to it if you have never ran with one before. I use a one way in all my cars, and I also use the new Airtronics M11 radio, and you can set the ABA, EPA to help control the braking power. You are able to dial in or out how much rear brake you need. If you dial in too much brake, a car with a front one way will spin out in the corners.Its also a good idea to use a good throttle servo if you use the ABA, as this setting will pulsate the braking side of the servo.

BRC

[Josh_C]

Thanks for that. Just wasn't sure if it was right. It mys frist touring car, i usually race buggies.

[raffaelli]

When you apply the brakes, should all four wheels lock, or just the rear. Just put an MTX4 together and only the rear wheels lock, front has no brake but has power.


For proper breaking, non of the wheels should lock. When your wheels are locked...the driver becomes a passenger. You will want to adjust the end points so that you have enough breaking at the end of the straight, but not enough to lock the wheels during breaking on the infield.

[rcabj]

Need some advice on whether to have a Novarossi NS12 S3, NSR12S3, RR12LL3 or an OS 12TZ(P) in this car

all these motors r good motors....u'll be happy with any of them...also heard many good stories about the os too..

[JamminJay]

I just picked up a MTX-3, I was curious, what is the best starter box out for this car? thanx.

[JamminJay]

I need part # TO220b. It is a little ring that gets glued to the side of the front one way gear to keep the belt on. It is not sold seperately, only in the group fo parts labeled TO220. If anyone has this piece or that set of parts, and is willing to ship to me cheaply.... or for just the cost of shipping please let me know. I don't have much in my paypal, but i can cover shipping, possibly a little more. Thanx.

[rcabj]

I just picked up a MTX-3, I was curious, what is the best starter box out for this car? thanx.

any starter box would be fine...i'm using the "Q- world"

[rcabj]

I need part # TO220b. It is a little ring that gets glued to the side of the front one way gear to keep the belt on. It is not sold seperately, only in the group fo parts labeled TO220. If anyone has this piece or that set of parts, and is willing to ship to me cheaply.... or for just the cost of shipping please let me know. I don't have much in my paypal, but i can cover shipping, possibly a little more. Thanx.

u better buy the whole package, the other parts u don't want can be used as spares

[azizhousecallz]

which should i get? I can get a new mtx3 kit for 200.00 or bid on this very clean mtx4 used kit but its very clean and has some really nice upgrades. Is there a big dif in these two kits? and can parts from these two kits be used on each other? help me out here guys? :D

[devious17]

go for the 4, the 3 is slowly running out of parts in the store.

[masterchief06]

WAKE UP!!!

Anybody still have MTX-3's out there? Its pretty bad that the MTX-2 forum is more active than this one! I got my MTX3 about three weeks ago and LOVE it. It has an OS .12 tz EB Mod motor, RD Logics Turbo II pipe, Kawahara 40 shore tires, front one-way, kawahara rear aluminum chassis brace, aluminum wheel hubs, etc etc. What else can I say: SHE COOKS!!!!

[Saboteur]

It'd be nice to have an MTX4 forum as that's what I run since parts are going on the 3. The 4 does drive a lot nicer too and overall is better so that's why I bought it.

[davecisco]

I Have The Mtx 4r And Wow! Very Good Car. I Did Not See Much Of A Difference From The Mtx 4 , But Very Happy W/ The One I Have. Brookly Hobbies Sells It For $379.00, Which Is A Great Price.

[T-ROY]

been out of the r/c world and just got back in. got a hold of an MTX3 and I'm trying to purchase a clutch bell for the 2 speed tranny. the hobby shop says it's on back order and gave me a part name "mugen mrx centax". If there is anyone that can help me I will greatly appreciate it.

[Saboteur]

I Have The Mtx 4r And Wow! Very Good Car. I Did Not See Much Of A Difference From The Mtx 4 , But Very Happy W/ The One I Have. Brookly Hobbies Sells It For $379.00, Which Is A Great Price.


I got mine way back but it was the original MTX4 for $310. ;) Overall any of these versions are awesome cars.

T-Roy, the clutchbell from the MRX4, MTX4 and mtx3 are all the same, but the MTX4 uses slightly different pitch pinions.

[T-ROY]

thanks , do you know of any hobbie shops in CT that would have what I need ? if so shoot me the info:D

[Saboteur]

Aces Nitro rc is in BPT that has exactly what you need however I need to call em to see if they have moved. What part of CT are you in?

[Saboteur]

While we are at it lets update this thread with pics.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3715.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3714.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3710.jpg

[T-ROY]

I'm in atlanta, GA but I will buy what I need from whomever has it because my car has been sitting in the hobbyshop for almost 2 months waiting on this clutchbell. That info will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[T-ROY]

BTW Nice cars!

[T-ROY]

how does that MRX4 compare to the Kyosho Evolva? I was thinking about getting a Kyosho Evolva Worlds car

[Saboteur]

Both cars are really awesome. Some like how kyosho handles saying its more smooth while others like the way the Mugen prefers to be driven more aggressive. However it all depends on who is driving it. Both are great, but you can win with a box stock MRX3 osaka edition, MRX4/R, or Kyosho kit. All you need to do is work on setup and driving skill. Also some track skills during competition is good like to avoid cars that have crashed or on their way of crashing, stay way from pillups and try not to tag the person infront of you constantly causing you or him to whipe out.

[T-ROY]

sounds good maybe I'll get both

[excaliba]

hey t-roy I just moved to the atl from nyc also. Do you know of any racing tracks out here? :roll2: :huh:

[T-ROY]

there is an old hobbyshop/race park called the Sugar Bowl in gwinett county up near the buford dam area. It's been closed but alot of guys still run up there and I think there was a race in may of 06. The story I got is the property was sold and they tried to turn it into a sub-division but the county won't let them. they have a paved road course, an paved oval and a dirt road course. They run the dirt track on saturdays and the paved road course on sundays and the have a working lap counter system also. The owners can't convert it into a sub-division so they just never destoyed the tracks but the hobby shop is closed and I hear this has been going on for about 4 years now.

[excaliba]

cool. I also just found out that there is a indoor and outdoor on road track in newnan.

[excaliba]

I will be getting a mugen soon. I'm still running a ntc3 and loving it. I plan on going back to sugar bowl this sunday to see whats up.

[T-ROY]

Got in touch with the hobby shop and they got the parts for my car and it should be ready today. Let me know how it goes up at the Sugar Bowl cause I'm outta town this weekend but nest weekend I will try to get out there.:cool:

[T-ROY]

Hey Excaliba shoot me that info on that track in Newnan. I just got my cars back from the hobby shop today and I'm ready to rock

[excaliba]

hobby town usa. exit 47 off of I-85 on bullsboro rd. you can give them a call for track info

[T-ROY]

Thanks, for the info. I was at the sugarbowl yesterday and saw a little racing and then it started to rain.

[excaliba]

Good to know there still racing. Did you see mostly 1/8 scale or 1/10 scale? I've been thimking about getting an 8th scale but only if there is alot of other 8th scale racers.

[T-ROY]

1/8th and 1/10th have a strong presence out there so I will be doing both and I had your same concerns you had but 1 other thing i did was find tracks within a 2-4 hour driving distance and they seem to support 1/10th as well as 1/8th nitro on-road racing. There about 4 in GA 2in Savannah and 2 in Augusta. I plan on doing a little traveling with this. How far are you from the Newnan track?

[excaliba]

I'm in douglasville. west side of atl. I'm about 45 min from newnan and within an hour of sugarbowl raceway.

[T-ROY]

Ok I'm in Riverdale 5-10 min from hartsfield

[excaliba]

hey t-roy I just e-mailed some info where atl georgia racers chat about area tracks and race events. :driving:
also check your PM.

[excaliba]

was up at sugarbowl this past sunday (9/09/07). saw 1/8 scales and 1/10 scale mugens there was also a mugen factory racer out there. It was cool up there. motivated me to fix up my car and look for my new purchase. there was some excitement about xrays nt1, got my curiosity.

[T-ROY]

yeah i met Demetrius but yet to contact him. I'm still breaking in my car but it's coming around and I need to practice. do you know if they are open on saturdays for practice seeing they run nitro on-road on sundays?

[Toad]

Hi There All Mtx-3 Riders

I Am Looking For Some Hop Ups Any Help From Anyone Would Be Cool. :)

[Toad]

Ok this is my MTX-3