Mugen MTX-3 Competition Nitro Touring Car

[StevePond]

This is a thread that originally appeared as part of our coverage of the Chicago Model Hobby Show. I guess this is as good a place as any to kick off the discussion since the cars are now beginning to ship to the hobby shops. Post away!

[EngenZerO]

this is what I am talking about....sweeeet...all other nitro tourers beware mugen is about to open a can of *choice wording* :D definitly going to buy this...

[Turbo][]

I am with ya bra-tha! Thisthing is a mini-MRX3...it's going to kick butt!!!

[StevePond]

It certainly appears the MRX-3 was the inspiriation behind some of the features.

[nitroguy2001]

the 2speed clutch looks like a rip off from the associated one. Just about everything is the same.

[stefan]

you joker.:mad:

This kind of two speed has been around for years, developed by Serpent and available for almost any car on the market.
I had one of these on my MTX2 before AE was even thinking about the NTC3.

[Turbo][]

from the cad drawing it looks like the rear diff is a standard planetary diff. I hope they will include a ball diff instead....

[synapse75]

where does it look like the Rx battery will be?

[Turbo][]

The RX battery will be 5 AA. Probably will have to build your own, or Mugen will sell a pack.

It will be located in the center of the chassis, under the fuel tank. Just like it's older brother MRX3.

[synapse75]

did you really mean 5AA batteries..
whats wrong with a standard Rx pack..

[Turbo][]

I think it's too long. I believe tthe battery looks like an L shape. the longer part of the L is layed down.

[ImpulseGTP]

The batteries will stack up like this.......3 on buttom and 2 on top of them, and i think they are AAA's.

[rc10gtisthebest]

The Pack looks like a standard hump pack just "flipped" to me...

[nitroguy2001]

my bad on that, i wasnt aware that it had been around. I am pretty new to the nitro tc and i only really know my NTC3. I apolojize

[EuroKRN]

Not a big deal, that's how we all learn. :D

But I wish that people wouldn't make such a big deal about copying... every industry does it. Microsoft made a killing doing it.

Most of the technology being used in the current lineup of touring and on road cars was developed by Serpent including the Centax centrifugal clutch. But the thing is the whole industry learns from each other. Take for instance the 1/8th cars.. The MRX2 and 3 took design cues from the Serpent Vector.. but if you look at the latest batch of Serpent cars, they take design cues from the MRX3.

Just be happy that there are ton of choices out there. And that any good driver can beat any bad driver with any car.

[Coconut]

Actually Associa5ted was first with the clutch and Serpent got it from them when associated got out of 1/8th on road. At one time associated's RC500 was king of the hill and many modern designs are a development from them. In fact ther are several older 1/8th manufacturers no longer in business that modern designs are only a improvement of. Also Delta;Bmt and others should be give credit for the development of the modern Rc on road cars. Serpent is still a relative new comer but should also be give credit.

[synapse75]

is smp newer or older?

[SilverFox]

Coconut, you're right when you said that Team Associated has long before Serpent use 2 and 3 speeds tranny on their 1/8 on road.

In the early '80's Team Associated had 3 on road cars.
RC-250
RC-300
RC-500

RC-250 was the basic car. Rear wheel drive straight axle (without diff).
RC-300 (if my memory is good) was the same as the RC-250 except that it has a diff instead of the straight axle.
RC-500 was something completely different. 2 or 4 wheel drive and 2 or 3 speeds automatic clutch-type tranny. The front and the rear diff was driven by belt, much like modern RC on road car are. The front shocks was inside (hard to explain) a little like a Formula 1. Activated by lever. For the time, it was one hot car!!
Nothing on the market in the early '80's could match this one!!

[TUCRACEMAN]

So the RC500 had inboard shocks like the Serpent Veteq?

[synapse75]

i dont remember the rc500 having shox.. i thought it had small coil springs like the L3
but i cant remember for sure..

[SilverFox]

The RC-500 was not exactly like the Veteq, the shocks on the front of the Veteq are horizontal, and in the RC-500, they were vertical, but inside.

I have to find a picture of it.

[hasminor]

Hi there,
serpent impulse wake up Mugen is too close for comfort.:mad:

[StevePond]

Here are some early pictures of the MTX-3 courtesy of Jon Ko in Japan. This appears to be pictures of World Champion Kenji Osaka's car during testing.

<center>
<img src=http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/mtx3/mtx-3a.jpg>

<img src=http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/mtx3/mtx-3andosaka.jpg>

<img src=http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/mtx3/mtx-3b.jpg>

<img src=http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/mtx3/mtx-3c.jpg>

<img src=http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/mtx3/mtx-3d.jpg>

</center>

[Nytrochaos]

well, with the popular craze of mini z's and micros, we now have a mini snake killer!!!

Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3Mini MRX-3


oh my god i want one.....itll have to replace my mtx-2......oh well!!!!!!!

[KingWillie]

Looks very similar to many of the current crop of Asian racers you can purchase anywhere, just alot more expensive (well except for the Serpent). Hope its justified. Very "nice" yes, but lets see if it can race. The Serpent 705 was'nt so great in it's initial outings in the states, being bested by both the NTC3s and the Reflex NT at the Nationals in Cincinnati last month. Yeah the driver could make all the difference, but these guys were all very good. Maybe it will be a great tuners car like the MTX-2, we will see.

Those are some wide bumpers on the front of the MTX-3.......

[synapse75]

the serpent did win when it mattered most....

[neuromatic]

really has nothing to say. nice history though...

[jason102276]

ive got it and its awesome

special battery required very small no extra room for anything bigger

they were saying special tires were needed they are not if your familiar with mtx-2 mugen made a spacer for behind wheel hex if used on new car 30mm tires fit fine on rear and width is 200mm

cant wait untill tommorrow when i get to race it for the first time

i wouldnt say its expensive considering you get centax, front and rear sway bars, and graphite shock towers and radio tray i got mine kit only 355 i used to have a ntc3 that was 280 and it did have any of those things

[TalleyRacing2]

Looks to me like the only thing it really needs is the universals. Then again, maybe I'm wrong.
Jason, is it that much better than the NTC3? I can get the ntc3 for $220, but it still needs all the extra stuff, which runs the cost well over the mtx3.
What is the cost of the battery packs, and how many volts are they?

[jason102276]

get the mtx-3 i traded my ntc3 for mtx-2 and mtx-3 is better

after my friend saw my car run he is getting rid of his ntc3 that has everything and getting a mtx-3

battery was 29.99 from speedtech for 730 mah 6v pack

[fasRC]

I have one too......but can't build it yet.....wife bought it as a b-day present which I should get this weekend........I had the mtx-2 and i just recently sold it....

I made my own battery pack for it and it cost me $6.....5 for the 700 mah batteries and $1 for the battery wire:)

At the track this weekend there were Team Mugen drivers running the MTX3 and they said the the car handle like an electric car.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by TalleyRacing2
I can get the ntc3 for $220
where?

[synapse75]

id like to know too, last time i checked that is lower than cost...

[TalleyRacing2]

A friend of mine is a dealer.

[jason102276]

i still wouldnt buy the ntc3 for 220 add the cost of centax, swaybars, foam tires, and graphite the subtract universals and mtx-3 is cheaper than factor in the fact ntc3 will break far more often mtx-3 is far cheaper and in my opinion easier and more fun to drive

broken parts= lost races

[TalleyRacing2]

I totally agree.

[rc4me2]

does the mtx3 use ball diffs?

[TalleyRacing2]

Nope, it's a gear diff setup. Ball diffs, from what I've delt with them in offroad, tend to slip a bit, and are also higher maintenence also.

[synapse75]

the best limited slip diffs are ball diffs...

usually for onroad diff slippage is not such a problem as it might be for offroad, and sometimes it is desireable to have a little slip with a ball diff.

Gear diffs have an advantage where you can change the weight of the diff fluid for desired effects..

usually i run solid axles though in 4wd cars and a ball diff in 2wd, havent had the chance to try a limited slip yet, or the $$...

[jason102276]

i thought a ball diff was a cool idea being able to infinetly adjust with a turn of a wrench appealed to me
but on my ntc3 the diffs would loosen up after afew runs and needed constant adjustment also they get gritty and need to be rebuilt often
they are lighter though and less rotating mass is faster
but gear diffs are just easier fill em up and unless they leak they are good for a long time
i did find that my mbx4xr diffs were pretty much empty after about 10 races so i must rebuild them more often it makes a really big difference on how the car handles when they go empty plus the gears are more likely to burn up
the mtx-3 comes with a fornt one way and rear gear diff the diffs are smaller than the ones on mtx-2 the kit also has the plastic case for assembling a front diff if you buy the internal gears and the outdrives which are the same as on mtx-2

[jason102276]

oops

[four20]

hi everyone, I want to purchase the mtx-3 but I want to know where would it be a good place to buy it from. I only found one hobby shop (nitrohouse) that had it, I think they had it for $379.00. I would like to know if anyone know of a better place to get it from,thanks.:)

[fasRC]

You can try speedtechrc.com and microrcshop and they are $$350 there.


I love mine...I have never driven a cars as good as this before and my last sedan was a MTX2. Handle perfect if you set it up to factory defaults.

[rc4me2]

anyone have problems w/ leaky diffs in the mtx3 (or did they fix it from the mtx2)?

thanks

[jason102276]

the new diffs are a slightly different design that looks like they may not leak as easily

but if you put the mtx-2 diffs together with some rtv they didnt leak in fact if you were lucky you could get them sealed without rtv or at least i did

[rc4me2]

thanks for the reply

another ? about pricing on this model

i think this guy is sadly mistaken, but i contacted a dealer and he said the mtx3 kit WITH ENGINE was only $360...

is this so, or is he way off?

[BigR]

i got mine here in Singapore for USD330 WITHOUT the engine. I'll say that the guy is WAYYYY OFF.

If he can package the engine in at 360, grab it without a second thought.

[fasRC]

I got mine for $510 with engine and pipe out the door.
If you can get it at that price, grap it.....the engine alone sells for $160.....


I don't have leaky diff problems with it so far. I had it in the MTX-2. i took it apart and drilled the inner diff casing and never had that problem again

[four20]

thanks for the replies. about the pricing on the mtx-3 I was mistaking, nitrohouse has them for $354.99 w/o engine and $549.99 w/ engine, but I haven't checked out any other place for prices though. I will have to do some searching on that I'm pretty sure I could find them cheaper elsewhere if I look around.

[Pro3/nmt105]

how is the MR 12? im thing about getting one for my ntc3. IS it easy to tune?

[jason102276]

i have mr-12 but its been modded

its just like any mt-12 as far as tuning they have the same carb

my car screams with this engine i would recommend it

[Pro3/nmt105]

is it good un modded cause im not planning on having it modded if i get one

[rc4me2]

ultimate hobbies has mtx 3 w/ mr12s1 for $499.95

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by jason102276
i still wouldnt buy the ntc3 for 220 add the cost of centax, swaybars, foam tires, and graphite the subtract universals and mtx-3 is cheaper than factor in the fact ntc3 will break far more often mtx-3 is far cheaper and in my opinion easier and more fun to drive

broken parts= lost races

Centax is a bit of overkill if u ask me...
but then again i might know nuttin
Is'nt only usefull on long tracks???

The NTC3 still beats the MTX3 here
I found out alot of the guys.. (well most of them are running Sirios while the Mugan boys are running their MT12's or MR12's...

[show2ime]

This was the Ntc3's first year of competition and it won. Also tq's at most events. I hear through the grapevine that the o3 ntc3 will have the centax as well. All for 299.00. As well as upgrading the car from what they learned the 1st year out. I was going ti get an mtx3 but I see no need now.

[rc4me2]

do you have any idea when the "03" ntc3 might come out

at the associated website, the last post regarding this or a "factory team" said "not sure when or if at all...probable, but no idea of a date yet"

im hoping to get a new ride before the first of the year, but if the ntc3 will be new before too long, i might look into that

[rc4me2]

once you find the right combo of diff fluid front and back, how often do you need to change it (or fill it, if it happened to leak)?

thanks

and how easy is it to access, remove, and work on the diffs in this car?

thanks

[Pro3/nmt105]

is there any diffrence in power between the MR 12 and MT 12 and what does the S1 stand for in when its labled as MR 12 S1?

[schnitzer]

Gotta chose between Reflex team kit and mtx3...


I need some advice regarding MTX3 and reflex team kit. Both are about the same price but which kit offers the most bang for the 0.35 grand in your opinion?

Some questions regarding mtx:
1. Does it includes a front one way?
2. Does it accept side exhast coz i had an extra CVR lying around waiting to be utilise?
3. How does a cvec pipe complement one of these two kits?

BTW, i had just snapped the cord for my hyper21 8-port in my buggy. i had decided to keep the turbo fan inside without replacing the pull start(will use a starter box but will not convert the backplate) How does it sounds?

[tekrsq]

1. Does it includes a front one way?
Yes

2. Does it accept side exhast coz i had an extra CVR lying around waiting to be utilise?
Looking at my car, I don't think so. There isn't enough room between the engine and the rear bulkhead to fit a header.

3. How does a cvec pipe complement one of these two kits?
A CVEC will compliment any engine on any car if you have it PROPERLY ADJUSTED. They are kinda finiky on their adjustments. Remember though if you plan to do any sanctioned racing, the CVEC is illegal.

Can't help you with the Hyper 21. I don't know anything about those engines.

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
is there any diffrence in power between the MR 12 and MT 12 and what does the S1 stand for in when its labled as MR 12 S1?

The MR12 is the "latest version" of the MT12. There is some noticeable power gain, but I'm not sure what the hp rating is. Not that it really matters, you can't go by those anyway. If memory serves me correct, I think Novarossi puts those designations for the carb and crank style. The "S1" designation is "S' for slide carb, "1" for SG crank.

[rc4me2]

mr is shortstroke, higher-revving version
more hp up top

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by show2ime
This was the Ntc3's first year of competition and it won. Also tq's at most events. I hear through the grapevine that the o3 ntc3 will have the centax as well. All for 299.00. As well as upgrading the car from what they learned the 1st year out. I was going ti get an mtx3 but I see no need now.
I dont think associated will update it for another year to year and a half cause they seem to update the gts about every 2.5 years. Do u think i will be able to convert to it? cause im getting a ntc3 pretty soon. I doubt they completely redesign it after a year so i bet theyll make a conversion kit like for the gts.

[TanMingChau]

I'm a dealer from Malysia looking for mugen mtx3 car kit for my customers. Can anyone help me? Drop me an email at tmcmp5@yahoo.co.uk

T.q

[jason102276]

schnitzer i dont think the reflex will work with a rotary carb and i know the mtx-3 wont

if associated comes out with a new car anytime soon i would be surprised they dont seem to come out with stuff very fast and so far do they have their own centax?

centax lutch is great on all tracks you can easily adjust your clutch for any kind of reaction you can imagine i never had one before the mtx-3 but i can tell you i will never go back i only wish it was something they made for my mbx4xr so i could adjust to track conditions

the mr-12 is rated at 1.35 hp whereas mt-12 was 1.15 both from same source so its safe to say its more powerfull

it takes a few minutes to access the diff in mtx-3 but if you build them correctly they wont need any further attention

if you set it up according to instructions the setup is very good i have tried it on med and small track size so far med track setup was perfect on the short track i would like a little more steering but by no means was it far off

[jblaze725]

i was wondering does anyone here have the mugen mtx-2 pro spec. i just bought one and wanted to get any opinions/tips slash anything else you might be able to tell me.

[jason102276]

pro spec is a great car the setup is good my old mtx-2 handled almost as well as new mtx-3 one of the guys i know still perfers his mtx-2 over mtx-3

there is a mtx-2 thread that should have lots of setup info but i never had to go far from the stock setup to get dailed in

[cHckbOY5]

is this a good first nitro car? cause i was thinkin in gettin an ntc3 or gt4

[jason102276]

only if you plan to race have built a kit before and can afford to

your going to need a starter box etc

and no matter what you get you need to learn how to tune nitro engine

also could you get parts and advice from others near you

mtx-3 is one of the best racing cars out there box setup works great and its very durable but the instructions arent the best but if you have experience with building kits it wont be a problem i wish my first nitro had been this good

ntc3 is the easiest for a complete newbie because its designed for entry level racing but not necessarily the best car all around

[cHckbOY5]

can i use this car for bashin aroun too?

[jason102276]

you can but beware belt cars run in parkinglots can get dirt and peebles stuck in the belts and pulleys causing problems in that case ntc3 is a little better because it has shaft drive but it can also get peebles in it that bind it up

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by jason102276


ntc3 is the easiest for a complete newbie because its designed for entry level racing but not necessarily the best car all around

A Bit of a biased oppinion there.....:rolleyes:
If it is entry level.. why is it the National Champion in the USA and in other Countries????

"NTC3 can be a rookie car, sure, but it can be RACE ready straight out of the box, you just need to know all the engineering behind, and you have to KNOW how to drive first......... "

"If I give you Barry Bakers car right now, I garantee you won' t win any local race with that, because no one knows that car except Barry himself, and that apply to your own NTC3."

[jason102276]

answer this does ntc3 have swaybars one way diff a centax clutch or foam tires? my mtx-3 did

do you have hopups on your car or is it box stock how about bakers?

were you at sedan nats?

did team associated run out the box cars at nats? worlds?

how do you like the new revised tank that wasnt a problem when the car originally came out even though me and many others were pleading with them to come out with a new tank for us to buy then got to nats and all team drivers had new design tank?

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by jason102276
answer this does ntc3 have swaybars one way diff a centax clutch or foam tires? my mtx-3 did

do you have hopups on your car or is it box stock how about bakers?

were you at sedan nats?

did team associated run out the box cars at nats? worlds?

how do you like the new revised tank that wasnt a problem when the car originally came out even though me and many others were pleading with them to come out with a new tank for us to buy then got to nats and all team drivers had new design tank?

Swaybars: no
One Way: no
Rubbers
no Centax Clutch

My car is box Stock...
Bakers Car:
http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/races/2002_photos/TQ.200mmSWCup_chas600.jpg

Pavidis 's Car:
http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/races/2002_photos/winner.200mmSWCup_chas700.jpg

About the tank.....
I have both and i dont seem to have any problems with it.....
Theres a couple of guys here that dont either..
I wonder why is it that so many ppl apparently hade problems.....:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

On both Bakers and Pavidis's car i can only see 2 things that aint original AE parts...

2002 IFMAR 1:10 200mm Sedan World Cup

Place Driver Mfg/Car
1 Mark Pavidis Associated NTC3
2 Josh Cyrul Trinity Reflex
3 Toshiyuki Iwamoto Serpent 705
4 Mark Green Serpent 705
5 Brian Berry Serpent Impact M2
6 Billy Easton Associated NTC3
7 Barry Baker TQ Associated NTC3
8 Ralph Burch Serpent Impact M2
9 Michael Salven Serpent 705
10 Marty Barnes Serpent 705

and BTW... if u look on some of the other forums.. ive counted now 8 ppl who sold there Serpents 4 NTC3's.... what does that tell u... and they notnovice guys with big wallets.. no there experienced Racers...

[NTC3Fan]

Straight from the Snack Pit:

Q: Associated seemed to be the strongest competitor. In which area are we ahead, and in which area are we behind their TC-3?
A: The area in which I think we have the advantage is the team work that Ralph and I have developed over the years, and the experience we have in gas racing, as well as Art's great set-up on this 200 mm car. Art's hard work made my job really easy at this race. I think the Associated car accelerates faster than the Serpent car due to the drive shaft system on the TC-3 car.

Q: The Worlds are in September, same track, same competition, but probably even more prepared. We want to win this one as well. Where should we focus on to prepare for this big race?
A: In order to repeat our success on this track for the World Championships in September, we need to make our drive train more efficient or develop more horse-power to compete with the acceleration rate of the TC-3. With the exception of the acceleration differences, the Serpent car performed exceptionally in the 45 minute main event, running qualifying lap times during the entire 45 minute race.

AE just don't have the experience to compete in a 45 minute main "yet". My NTC3 has been out on the track 6 weeks now and no broken parts. Knock on wood. Everything great. Car is awesome. No problems with the tank with the relocation of the pressure line. About a $2 fix and 30 minutes of your time. If Burch and Art were running a NTC-3 he would have TQed and won the race with even fast times than any of the cars out there. Don't forget that Ralph Burch is a world-class driver. He is like in the top 3 in the world. The AE boys only were able to run with him because their cars were much better in all areas. Other wise I think they would have really gotten smoke.

[jcomtx3]

i just got my mtx3 need some advice on assembling the on what to look out for like bindings etc........

[jason102276]

if you follow instructions you wont have any problems

there was an adendum in my kit about sanding the brake pads

i suggest the use of a couple o-rings in the front outdrive cups because the front dogbones are too loose or use mtx-2 dogbones or the best solution get the universals

my kit was perfect all suspension moved freely and instructions guided me right through assembly in about 4 hours

[oldginger]

Does the kit come with graphite radio tray, front & rear shock towers? And how thick the chassis is? Thanks

[jason102276]

yes all graphite is included chassis is 3mm thick

[StevePond]

Hey MT! The kit does come with graphite shock towers, and upper deck. The lower chassis plate is 1/8 aluminum (3.18mm) and the woven graphite upper deck is 3/32" thick (about 2.4mm).

[oldginger]

Hey SteveP, thanks a lot. I almost placed a big order for the graphite upper deck and 4mm shock towers. :o

oldginger

[cHckbOY5]

did mtx3 compete in the worlds? if it did, how come it wasnt in top ten?

[jason102276]

they didnt have mtx-3 at worlds

team mugen from overseas were having thier nats at same time

team mugen usa tried to gear up the internal ratio and i think they said they overdid it and had no acceleration

i heard this from a friend so it may not be accurate but mtx-3 wasnt there for sure

[cHckbOY5]

ooo, dats good, cause i was just wonderin, it was all ntcs n 705 n one trinity heh. i dunno wat to get, ntc3 or mtx3.

[StevePond]

Originally posted by jcomtx3
i just got my mtx3 need some advice on assembling the on what to look out for like bindings etc........


Here's a few tips I noted during assembly:

Sand the metal brake components liberally where the pads are attached with glue - it makes them stick much better. Also, follow the instruction addendum and sand the fiber surface of the assembled brake shoe liberally. It knocks off the glaze of the pad for more consistent braking, but it also provides critical clearance needed to allow the drivetrain to spin freely when not applying the brakes; otherwise the brakes may bind a little too much.

Step 9: The gasket for the diff will be in the same bag as the foam bumper - Trust me, it's not easy to find because it blends right in with the bumper.

Step 33: Install the screw for the left side of the roll bar through outermost hole in the left side of the graphite upper chassis plate. The inner screw hole is to attach the upper plate to the chassis brace and the instructions are not clear on which hole to use.

Step 34: The 18mm screws holding both servos in place are too long. 3x12 screws work fine. You might also want to mount the throttle servo from below the upper deck instead of from the top. It may require removing a rib from the servo mounting tabs to allow the servo to sit flush up against the bottom of the upper deck, but it will lower the servo by about 1/4, which helps lower the CG.
P.S. Don't use the rubber servo grommets shown in the illustrations.

Step 38: be sure to use the tapered flywheel collet from the kit and NOT the one that comes with the engine. They have different lengths and taper angles; only the one in the kit will work properly with the Centax flywheel.

Step 42: Cut the threaded portion of the carb linkage rod in half. This allows the ball end to be threaded on all the way so the spring is not rubbing against the remaining threaded portion of the linkage rod. Also, leave off the locking collar that is supposed to be installed on the throttle linkage rod between the servo horn and the ball end that attaches to the carb. It will only pre-load the spring too much and it may cause spring bind when you hit the brakes.

I don't know the step number for this one, but it's related to the rear bulkhead brace and body mount. The four flathead allen screws that hold the rear gear diff together, rub lightly against the right inside of the molded bulkhead brace/body mount. You should gring a little on the inside of the brace closest to where the screws pass to prevent subtle binding.

Stuff the extra wires for the servos, battery and on/off switch, between the throttle servo and fuel tank. It's easiest to do this from the bottom of the chassis with the receiver pack removed. This is the only place for the extra length of electronic wires. Otherwise they kinda hang out there in the breeze.

Lastly, it appears some of the early kits have a little extra clearance that allows excess front-to-back movement of the lower rear suspension arms. Shim the rear arms with some electric motor shims.

Thats about all I know for now. I'll pass more along as I get more time with the car.

[Corse-R]

Hi:

Revised the Square catalog for hop up parts for the MTX3 and saw some interesting springs. that comes between the brake pads and forces them to remain open if there isn't servo operation.

Those springs go on the pins that support the brake pads (not the ones that force the brake the pads to the disk).

Cheap, quick and cleanly, grab AE part no. 8429 (.020" springs from RC10L3 or stiffer, part no varies) and put one on each pin between the pads.

.020" springs work, but a stiffer spring would be better, If not wrong, there are .022 (#8431) and .024 (#8432) sizes.

Not having the car at hand to test but is a fairly quick, clean and cheap trick for the brake pads.

BTW: Sometimes to cure the brake pad sticking you only need to do a light pass with the body reamer thru the hole (I said light, no need to enlarge the hole of the metal part!) no matter what quantity of care you put bonding, some gets out of round and causes friction to the pin.

[StevePond]

The binding issue isn't related to the clearance around the pins from the brake pads, although I routinely do exactly what you've suggested to make sure the pads float freely on the pins. It's an issue of clearance between the brake cam, and the pins in the lower chassis plate and the molded upper brace that capture the outer brake pad. The tolerances are very close, so if you don't sand a little of the thickness of the brake pad away, it might be too tight and cause binding.

[rc4me2]

for owners of this car...any feedback / experience would be greatly appreciated

im lookin for my first nitro tc...
driven everything else, nitro included (offroad), but never onroad

looks like this car is bout the best for the price?

[jason102276]

not only best car for price quite possibly best car period i am very pleased with it

ive had associated ntc3 and rc10gt, losi xxx-s, gs storm, traxxas t-maxx in the past two to three years so ive had cars from most big manufacturers and the mugen cars are my favorite i have now mtx-3 and mbx4xr and im waiting for new mugen buggy and just maybe a mst-1 but non of the other brands really interest me anymore except possibly new t-maxx

mugen has good performance and durability

[rc10gtisthebest]

i am getting one i a few weeks (2 or so) I CAN'T WAIT!

[cHckbOY5]

damn i should have bought the kit on new years day, it was 469 with engine at ultimatehobbies, but only for dat day =(

[hq9760]

<B>Corse-R:</B>

I got one for Christmas with a Top Novarossi 5 Port Turbo Engine and picked up a second one from Ultimate Hobbies with the MR-12S1 engine. After building a few, the Pro racer (Chester P) down at my local hobby shop (Bruckner Hobbies) advised me to use some clear silicone on the diff ring to keep and maintain all the grease in. He said it would create a tighter seal. He has been in this hobby for eighteen years. I have yet to meet someone that has impressed me more than he.

What do you think about using silicone?

Anyone else?


;)

[jason102276]

using silicone on the diffs is fine just be sure that you only use a little try not to get any inside the case if possible

[jjl]

other than breast implants, silicone works well on the diff rings, used it on my mtx-2's diffs, no leaking. use just a thin coating of silicone.

[cHckbOY5]

is gettin the kit with motor better than just the kit? if so, do i save alot?

[rc4me2]

kit runs about 360
engine mr12s1 (they say the kits include these) run around 160
pipe would be 50+
in the end, you probably save nearly 100

just from what ive seen

[jason102276]

buy the kit with engine and pipe and header are pretty much free

thats what ive got and you will not be disappointed

[bighurt98]

Where is a good place to get this battery pack? I use a Futaba setup and I'm having a hard time finding the power pack with the futaba connector. Will the power pack with airtronics connector work ok?

bighurt98

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by bighurt98
Where is a good place to get this battery pack? I use a Futaba setup and I'm having a hard time finding the power pack with the futaba connector. Will the power pack with airtronics connector work ok?

If you're getting problems finding the packs for the MTX3, you can do it by grabbing 5 AAA cells and wiring on a 3+2 scheme (3 cells and 2 cells on the upper side).

[rc4me2]

four20: go to www.ultimatehobbies.com

theyve got them for 499.95 w/ engine and pipe
and watch for sales...on newyears day, they were going for 470

can anyone compare this car to a fellow racer's...lets say, 705?

thanks

[jason102276]

i dont think the 705 is even available yet

they are both good cars but serpent will most likely cost more

i think the mtx-3 will have the advantage on most tracks because it has a lower cg

the 705 may still have the advantage on the really big tracks due to its internal drive ratio but the have changed it vs impulse

[JWF_FRANI]

first impression of the car.
quality of the cars parts fit was great
as for the instructions and parts bagging
could be better.
I put it through its first race yesterday and
was very pleased with the car using the
basic set up with a heavier diff grease for
the rear diff.

[di_water]

Hi all,

Does anyone know the spring rate of Mugen shock springs in lbs/in ?

Thank you.

[Corse-R]

Last weekend did some serious testing and setup of my car and did some real serious laps to the track (in fact lowered my best lap for 0.62 seconds).

Found some things:

[list=1]
Car weight is very low. In fact to be legal my car needs about 60 grams of ballast (Gee: now I need to think where I put those serious quantity of lead). Car is box stock and my radio equipment is very usual.
Brake: Found that the normal 'Ferodo' brake pads are too much for this car. In fact are the same pads and disk that brakes my MRX3 and weights 1200 grams more. Yellow teflon pads are much better to this car, makes the braking less critical and the best of, isn't needed sanding parts to get a bind free transmission.
10000wt oil seemed to me 'too light'. With 30000wt went much better and allowed me to put some 40 foams. With a completely dry and the lots of rubber that leave on racing, going up to 50K or a solid axle is a must (Kawahara: wake up!) :D
[/list=1]

Steve: what about a big shootout with the 'King' NTC3, MTX3, 705 and VoneRR/Reflex for a forthcoming issue?

[NitroOwnsYou]

Corse-R,

Hows the on/off power steering with this car compared to a serpent that usually has tons. Im getting ready to pick one up to compliment my MRX-3!

Thanks,
JR

BTW I never owned an overpriced sled from serpent! :D

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NitroOwnsYou
Hows the on/off power steering with this car compared to a serpent that usually has tons. Im getting ready to pick one up to compliment my MRX-3!


For my personal liking the car is a little squirrely to put into low and med speed turns and is here where you can note some push, I'm in process of getting into the MTX3 (NTC3 handles a lot different), but found that the stock setup isn't the best setup to do good laps (much of the push of the car is due to the massive rear toe-in) reduce it to 2 degree each wheel and 3 degree camber at rear and put a little more toe-out at the front much of that push is gone.

This weekend plan to check some changes (50K and 100K on the rear diff) and start testing different tyres and some gearing (backstraight is of 200Ft long and in the stock gearing you run out of steam before 75% of the straight).

If you use an MRX3, as an indication, on our track we usually use all the year the B-D rear parts (higher) and the B ackermann piece, 600wt front and 800wt rear, foams can range from 35/35, 35/37 or 37/37 (if you dare to put on winter with the track moist... :D ) change the front pulley at your personal likings some got good results with 25T and others go with 26T.

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Steve: what about a big shootout with the 'King' NTC3, MTX3, 705 and VoneRR/Reflex for a forthcoming issue?

I second that. The contenders should be Kyosho V-oneRR, Reflex, Yokomo GT-4R, Serpent 705, NTC-3, and the MTX-3. Set up with whatever radio gear. Use the MR12 or Sirio .12 and an appropriate pipe. Obviously the same gear on every car is a must. Gear them all appropriate for the track as well. Another thought is to run on more than one different track (long and short) and let us know your opinions on what is best for each type of track. Switching of basics (shock and diff oil and gearing) to suit the track would be appreciated. These are the basics to tuning and handcuffing a kit by only using what is in the box is hardly fair as any serious racer will change these things.

I saw the MTX-3 when it first came out here in Tokyo, and I was not impressed for the money. It was fully $100 USD more expensive than the V-oneRR and they still didn't center the fuel tank. You would think they would learn. I bought another V-oneRR needless to say.

[jason102276]

the fuel tank not being centered doesnt affect the balance significantly and allows the front window opening to align with tank and engine head directly

i think the steering servo placement kinda balances it out somehow

[Corse-R]

Due to wheater, I've run aproximately 30 or 35 tanks of fuel, and think that the car isn't affected for not having the fuel tank centered, car is quick when properly adjusted (as other cars).

Doing a shootout of this can be better suited to rcnitro rather than RCCA, but love to see 4 or 5 contenders like NTC3, MTX3, Vone RR, Serpent and Reflex, other may apply, but surely that on those 5 brands have the 98% of the racers covered

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by jason102276
the fuel tank not being centered doesnt affect the balance significantly and allows the front window opening to align with tank and engine head directly

i think the steering servo placement kinda balances it out somehow

The problem is the car will really only be dialed for a given quantity of fuel. As the fuel quantity changes, the left to right balance of the car changes as well. Not a huge deal, but they thought it was important enough to center the tank on the MRX series.

[oldginger]

MTX-3 owners, I think you will be very happy to see what hop-ups you can put onto your Ready-To-Race MTX-3. Check them out at http://www.rchub.com :cool:

[oldginger]

http://www.rchub.com/gfx/3racing/MTX3/350/graphitekit-350.jpg
The graphite conversion kit includes one of each 1)front bumper plate, 2) 4mm front shock tower, 3) rear shock tower and 4) radio tray.

[ME-student]

i already got some from www.justrc.com
super fast delivery and their price are lower too...:D

[Ah10]

Originally posted by ME-student
i already got some from www.justrc.com
super fast delivery and their price are lower too...:D

Hey guys, Finally I posted all the images I have since the first day I got my hop ups! yeah yeah yeah I know it took me forever to post them but here they are

Hi guys,

As promised, I am posting my MTX3 with all the hop ups I got from Justrc. Eventhough I got all my hop ups 2 weeks ago but didnt have enough time to put them on, besides I dont want to put all of them on at once, I want to test what would work and what would be eye candies! Anyways, here they are

Stratus 2.1 Body
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 stratus side.jpg

Stratus 2.1 Body 2
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 stratus front.jpg

Rear Sway Bar
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 rear sway bar.jpg

Rear Shock Tower
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 rear shock tower.jpg

Upper Deck
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 upper deck.jpg

Light Weight Pulley Adaptor
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 light weight pulley adaptor 2.jpg

Light Weight Pulley Adaptor 2
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 light weight pulley adaptor.jpg

Side Brace
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 side brace.jpg

Mid Block
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 mid block.jpg

Front Sway Bar
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 front sway bar.jpg

Light Weight Engine Mount
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 engine mount.jpg

Mid Support
http://www.eglobalescrow.com/anthony/rc/mtx3 mid support.jpg

Enjoy guys!

[talon51]

Ah10, thats one sweet car!! I'm gonna get one come summer time, and I was wondering what other option parts you have on there... I just read the article on it in Nitro, and its one awesome car to begin with. Can't wait til summer...

Anything else I should know, consider, etc about this car?? Let me know...

Later,
Talon

[yann]

What's do you prefer, ntc3 or mtx3?

regards

yann

[talon51]

The MTX-3. I has the potential to whip up on the NTC3, besides, everyone runs em, I want something different.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by talon51
The MTX-3. I has the potential to whip up on the NTC3, besides, everyone runs em, I want something different.

I've run all two under race conditions, all two handle much different and transmit quite different feelings to the driver. NTC3 is easy and gentle with the driver and accepts very different driver skills, if you sweat at the track with this car can be two things:
- Messed setup.
- You're riding very hard.

Yes, NTC3 is ugly but quite effective on the right hands.

MTX3 is a serious race machine who needs a steady hand with the setup. A great car with great handling but needs to be run accordingly. It handles like a electric car on the chicanes (side to side turns are lightning fast).

All two cars are quite capable of running and winning races, but the MTX3 is more demanding on the skills of the driver. In fact on my track all the races that we had this year (3 by the moment are won by a NTC3 and MTX3).

[fuse01]

i have tried both cars and manz.. the mtx 3 is very very smooth to drive.. in my option the mtx3 is the best belt driven car today.

given a choice i would trade my ntc3 for a mtx3 anytime

[talon51]

Originally posted by Corse-R
MTX3 is a serious race machine who needs a steady hand with the setup. A great car with great handling but needs to be run accordingly. It handles like a electric car on the chicanes (side to side turns are lightning fast).


Now thats what I wanted to hear. I usually run a very aggressive setup on my electric TC, and I'd like to get a Nitro TC with the simliar handling characteristics. I love having a car that can change directions quickly and can really turn in a lot on or off power.

Ok, I'm getting the MTX-3, too bad I have to wait til summer to get it, cause I'm an umemployed college student...summer won't come fast enough.

Later
Talon

[Ah10]

Originally posted by talon51
Ah10, thats one sweet car!! I'm gonna get one come summer time, and I was wondering what other option parts you have on there... I just read the article on it in Nitro, and its one awesome car to begin with. Can't wait til summer...

Anything else I should know, consider, etc about this car?? Let me know...

Later,
Talon

Hey Talon51, Honestly you probably dont need all the hop up for this car, I would break it down into 2 areas for considerations.

1. Stiffen up the chassis:
rear radio plate support, both front and rear 4mm shock tower, newer style rear sway bar(greater tunability and stiffen up the rear bulkhead, aluminum front sway bar(the plastic part has a lot of flex. Aluminum mid block.

2. Light weight stuff(now on this area is up to each individuals, since if you are going after stiffen up the chassis you are putting some weight back into the car and may be it is a good idea to take some off to compensate the weight you put in!
Light weight 1st and 2nd gear housing, light weight lay shaft and mid shaft(the mid shaft is only 1/3 of the weight compare with the stock mugen one), Light weight pulley adaptors, Light weight brake disk, light weight pivid balls, light weight engine mounts.


And most importantly clean the car really good, afterall we are trying to put our mtx3 on a diet and we always overlook the dirt we collect on the car after each run, and those dirt could easily put 20~30grams on the car!

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Ah10
Hey Talon51, Honestly you probably dont need all the hop up for this car, I would break it down into 2 areas for considerations.

Hey Ah10, you missed the third area - Eye candy parts, are those on bright anodized colors that are really the responsible of making your car go real fast :D :D :D :D

Basically got some parts like you said, now my problem is: where I put the 55 grams that I need to put my car on legal weight? :mad:

More eye candy parts! :D Wait, don't want to do my car frightening fast (it's enough fast...).

[talon51]

55 grams underweight!!! Wow, thats crazy...what did you put on it to get it that light?? How much does it wieght stock?

Thanks for the info/advice,
Talon

[Ah10]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Hey Ah10, you missed the third area - Eye candy parts, are those on bright anodized colors that are really the responsible of making your car go real fast :D :D :D :D

Basically got some parts like you said, now my problem is: where I put the 55 grams that I need to put my car on legal weight? :mad:

More eye candy parts! :D Wait, don't want to do my car frightening fast (it's enough fast...).

one easy way! before you actually go on a race dont clean the car, with all the dirt in there, I am sure you can make up that 55garms! :p :p

Now you might want to consider the rear body post mount, the aluminum one it weights more then the stock plastic one but I dont know if it is 55 more grams!

or another alternative is to put some drywall tape and shoe glue onto the body make it stiffer! you can add some weight and yet make the body stronger! kind of like one stone kill 2 birds

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by talon51
55 grams underweight!!! Wow, thats crazy...what did you put on it to get it that light?? How much does it wieght stock?

Thanks for the info/advice,
Talon

I've heard so many variations in weight, I don't know what to think about what the stock weight is supposed to be. My car (BOX STOCK, with radio gear, body, new foam tires, no fuel, no transponder) weighs 1723 grams (60.8 oz). I assume the weight difference is the radio gear and how many coats of paint are on the body. I've got the Novak XXtra rx, with Hitec 5625 servos and the Stratus 2.1 body. It's not the lightest body I ever painted, but it's not the heaviest either.

I'm in the process of lightening the drivetrain and adding a few aluminum chassis parts which will hopefully add a little overall weight while reducing the rotating mass.

[Sike]

Hey guys. I'm in the process of buying this friday or sometime next week. I have been using my nitro 4tec to run and i was able to keep up with guyswith NTC3 and MTX-2. This is not full track just so you guys know. It's a Lowes parking lot with a cone on each end. My engine is a modified MT12. It's a modified 4tec too but the belt keeps ripping every 10 or so run.

I like the MTX-2 and NTC3 handling, MTX-2 better. Since mtx-3 is newer, i guess it's better. Do you guys have any problem on your belts or any part of the car that gives after a few run using very powerful engines?


It's says the new MT12 that come with the kit is more powerful, does it have more power than RB Concept 5 port turbo? Will the mtx-3 handle this engine?

any help is greatly appreciated
Thanx in advance
-Sike

[fasRC]

If you liked the 4tec....than u'll love the MTX-3....trust me....i bought the very first one that came out and have yet to break anything....once i broke a rear a arm due to running out of gas and an 8th scale hitting it at full throttle...other than that...not one broken part and i run the RS12 engine on it 2x a week.

[Sike]

good to hear that. How's the belts so far? Do they have any sign of wearing out?

Have you seen anybopdy else running an MTX-3 with different engines?

I'm still not sure weather to purchase with or without engine. I like my MT12 but I want to move up from there and I wanna do it with a $200 engine budget. Legal or outlaw

[fasRC]

My local track here is basically all mugen...so everyone is switching to the mtx3......they all run all types of engines without any issues....my belts look pretty good so far......i hade a mtx-2 before this and I also have a mrx-3...all very durable and affordable....you can't go wrong with it....trust me...

[Sike]

I am set for the MTX-3 but my dilemma is if it's worth getting the MR-12 engine or is there anything better out for under $200. I have no problem tuning my MT12 though. I've ran it with messed up dial but learned from it. 4 gallons later, still has good compression and does not flame out. they really built it to last, but i just need something a notch or two up.

what engine did you have on your mtx-2? you think mtx-3 is much better though?

[fasRC]

I had the mt12 in the mtx 2 and have the rs12 in the mtx3..the rs12 is faster......but you can get more speed by adding the 22/42 pinion combo on the mtx-3 for the 2nd gear///many guys still run the mt12 at my track and they don't have any problems keeping up....in my 8th scale i run the serio and love that motor.....i may get one for my 10th scale after my rs12 dies.....the mt12 on my mtx2 lasted me 2 1/2 years and it still had compression after I sold it with the mtx-2.....i had very well over 12 gallons on it.....i bought a new piston sleeve for it just in case and never used it, its still setting in its original package in my tool box......as long as you take care of the motor and not run it too hot...it'll be fine. If your mt-12 is still good...just keep it.

[Speed De]

Just wanna know how good the rs12 realy is because it's quiet a good deal if you get the Mugen MTX3 with it?

[fasRC]

Bascally your getting a RS 12 and and a Rex pipe and header for $160 if you buy the MTX3 complete...if you buy piep, header and engine by itself....it'll cost you around $220.....so your getting a good deal....if you don't have a good motor and pipe already..than get it, if you do.....well thats up to you....I personally would stick with what i have until that is completely gone than i would get a new engine.

[Sike]

fastrc, thanx for the reply. I'm confuse about something though. What's the RS12? is that the one that came with the engine?

I saw on speedtechrc.com that the mtx-3 comes in kit and with an engine called MS-12 S1 and have a higher rpm. I just picked up an R/C magazine (not r/c nitro nor rcca ;) ) and they said the mtx-3 come with MT12 (same engine i have).

Did Mugen sent out different type engine combo with this kit? Also, on that magazine, it says the top speed of only 45mph?!? I know mtx-2 accelerate like crazy but my nitro 4tec was able to keep up in no time and has a bit more top end. Both cars were using MT-12. I thought the MTX-3 has a bit more top end without sacrificing bottom end.

What's the pinion option? Can this make the top speed higher while still have the same acceleration?

Thanx again

[fasRC]

The mtx-3 is supposed to come with the MR12 motor and mine for some reason came with a Novarossi rs12 motor.....I don't mind or know the difference....but it runs great and fast......Top speed is a lot faster than 45mph but exctly what, i don't know?????? I can keepup and even pass bad 8th scale drivers with this car.....what does that say????? It says its not the car or motor....its the driver......;)

[fasRC]

I use the stock 1st gear with a 22/42 second speed gear.....I think thats right...too lazy to go and look at it....basically on the spur...i went down one tooth.

[tekrsq]

FasRC is right. Thy're supposed to come with the MR12, which is the short stroke version of the MT12. If memory serves me, the MR12 and the RS12 are the same engine, just the blocks are labeled different. The first 200 MTX-3 cars released had the MR12 turbo engine included in the kits (I got one, hehe).

Because of the weather, I have yet to get mine on the asphalt, but I have seen one run. Believe me, it's considerably faster than 45mph.

[Speed De]

I had looked through several R/C forums and can't find a an onesided opinion which of the two 705 or MTX3 is better. Can I have your opinions because they are both great touring cars!

[helotaxi]

The driver makes more of a difference than any of the minor differences between the top cars. Luck even plays a bigger part. You really can't go wrong with any of the current breed of top-shelf racers. If you are in the US, support and prices for the 705 and the MTX-3 make them the best choice. In Asia, the Vone-RR is the best supported and cheapest. Get what ever you can get parts the easiest for. If you want 3rd party aftermarket parts go for the MTX-3. The aftermarket for this car is already huge here in Tokyo, and the car is only a few months old. No one makes anything more than a chassis for the Serpent and I don't know if the 705 is even supported in that area yet.

[Speed De]

I wanna know about performance on the track strenght balance, quality because the Serpent is a little more expensive but I think it's more rigid.

[YR4Dude]

Helotaxi - How much are MTX-3 selling for in Tokyo? with and without motor?

[helotaxi]

The basic car without the engine is going for 31800 yen. The exchange rate is 116 yen to the dollar. Basically $275 plus Tax. I haven't seen it with the engine yet, they probably sold out really quick. The engines go for a pretty penny here so the set is sure to be a great deal and in demand.

Speed- If you did a double blind comparison of the Serpent and the MTX, I don't think you could find a driver that could tell them apart.

[YR4Dude]

Doesn't look like there's much differenece in price between there and here(SoCal). MTX-3's with MR-12 are going for $500. Separately, the motors are selling for $160/ea. Factor in shipping and handling from there to here and difference is not significant.

[Sike]

hey guys... I just ordered the MTX-3 kit from nitrohouse. I have my engine selection down to a Sirio .12 Outlaw SG Shaft (buying on my next paycheck), anybody used it on their car? I won't be doing any ROAR legal race. Nothing but parking lot race. Bragging rights baby :)

I know I have to buy the mugen battery. Going to use Hitec 5625MG for steering and maybe 605BB throttle with a Novak Xxtra reciever. I'm going to buy the battery from SpeedtechRC next week. might as well get extra front and rear foams. 26mm and 30mm offset.

1.)Do I need anything else?
2.)What spare do you think is neccesary?
3.)What's on your wish list part for this car? (the benefit of that part)
4.) Do I need to buy fliuds? I have yokomo thick grease (makes my n4tec front diff into a front way) and a bunch shock oil

thank again guys

[jason102276]

first thing is to get the universals got to have them in the front

up to you whether you want them in the rear or not i have chosen to get them

the stock dogbones come out of the front when turning hard

the kit comes with all necessary fluids to build

for spare parts it will be necessary to get a pair or 2 of the front uprights part #TO138 these will be the first thing to break

another thing ive heard is to get the teflon brake pads the stock kit pads must be sanded so the brakes dont drag apparently the teflons dont and you dont need the braking power of stock pads cause the kit comes with the oneway

another hopup that is needed is the rear brace the little piece that goes over clutch is best to be replaced with a metal piece

justrc.com is a good place to get mtx-3 hopups for cheap the shipping was fast also

[fasRC]

Jason made good comments on what extra parts to get...they are all necessary stuff if you have the money......for me......everything is still all stock.....for the front dog bone issue, I use fuel tubing for the both the inside and outside cups to make sure they don't pop out. I have yet to break something on this car....i broke a rear a arm and shock boot when an 8th scale hit me when i ran out of gas on a fast corner and thats it.

Sirios are awsome motors.....i have not used the .12 but I run the .21 in my MRX3 and that puppy screams....ran the C4 before and the Sirio has more top end..................

[Sike]

do you guys know which servo dimension to have so it will fit on the lower part of the upper deck? I might as well get something that will fit so it'll lower the CG. I do tend to stick with hitec due to price though

fasRC: I read a few page before that you built your battery pack for $6? Can you tell me how? I have some extra servo wir extension that I can use and some 14, 16, 18 and 22 ga wires around.

ps. justrc.com doesn't seem to have the universals in stock. I might buy them just for spare. btw, are the front and rear different?

thanx again.

[tekrsq]

I would think just about any standard size servo will fit under the deck. I've got Hitec digitals and the throttle servo fit fine under the deck.

I THINK the only difference between front and rear is the o-rings included with the front. I didn't measure mine when I put them in, but I didn't notice any huge difference between the 2 that would have made a difference.

[kakolitoy]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tekrsq
[B]I would think just about any standard size servo will fit under the deck. I've got Hitec digitals and the throttle servo fit fine under the deck.



Question?

In ur experience, Is Hitec servos any good even if they r digital?

I used to buy this piece of crap and I always send to hitec for repair, and still never been happy w/ it. I have not try the digital ones. Because of bad experience, I throw all my hitec away in the garbage (I bought all of it NIB). Then, I started using KO propo servos 2143, and 2173.

[jason102276]

i use hitec digitals 3 things

1 they do have a much higher failure rate then the more expensive brands best servos ive heard KO and futaba

2 to fit it under the dech you must file or dremel a small lip on the servo

3 my hitec digitals have a 2 year warranty so when they die i take them in and trade for a new one luckily the guy at the store will do this for me after the warranty is up futaba servos will be bought

justrc universals are different lengths the fronts are longer and come with o-rings i would like to have bought only fronts since i realized this but it was cheaper to buy the sets of front and rear together

i broke a mugen brand universal in a hard hit with the wall i have heard others who did the same the mugen brand was 32 for 1 pair i got the justrc for 29 for 2 pair so i bought an extra 2 pair figuring breakage may also be a problem if the expensive ones break cheaper ones probably would too but at least i will save money

when i got the justrc universals i saw the area where i broke the mugen universal was slightly reinforced on the justrc one i was impressed if the justrc last as long as mugen they are more than 2x cheaper but if they last longer than mugen even better

and if they dont last as long as mugen at least they were cheap enough i could buy an entire extra set for less than the price of mugen brand

[tekrsq]

I had a terrible time with their 605, 615, 625, etc servos burning out and not centering correctly, but I never had any troubles with the 525 or 545 servos. I switched over to the 5625 & 5645 digitals and haven't had any problems since the switch. I guess it's been about 2 years, I started buying them right after they came out. My 525 & 545 servos are old as dirt and still performing flawlessly.

I know some people still have problems with Hitec servos (even the newer digitals), but I honestly don't know why. I don't know if they are not using the right servo the application, not the right servo horn, or what the problem is. Between myself and my sons, we have 13 RC vehicles, and all run Hitec equipment and servos. Except for the problems with the "600 series" servos, my stuff has performed great. So I can't talk bad about Hitec.

This just goes to show difference in opinion. A hobby shop "rep" gave me 2 KO 2173 servos a few months back to try out (trying to get me away from Hitec). I put them both in my MRX-3 and hit the track (I know it's a little strong for a steering servo, but it had the speed, so I tried it). I got sideways coming out of a horseshoe and got t-boned. It snapped the servo shaft. Never hurt the servo saver, tire, anything else. I chalked it up to a freak of nature. The next day, the 2173 I had for throttle burned out. Just stopped working, and locked about 1/2 throttle. So, I personally won't recommend KO servo, I still know people that use them, and swear by them.

[kakolitoy]

[

This just goes to show difference in opinion. A hobby shop "rep" gave me 2 KO 2173 servos a few months back to try out (trying to get me away from Hitec). I put them both in my MRX-3 and hit the track (I know it's a little strong for a steering servo, but it had the speed, so I tried it). I got sideways coming out of a horseshoe and got t-boned. It snapped the servo shaft. Never hurt the servo saver, tire, anything else. I chalked it up to a freak of nature. The next day, the 2173 I had for throttle burned out. Just stopped working, and locked about 1/2 throttle. So, I personally won't recommend KO servo, I still know people that use them, and swear by them. [/B][/QUOTE]


I have 17 cars as well, I used to use a lot of futabas. Then, I tried hitec its just a really crappy. Here in Chicago a lot of people are complianing to Als Hobby (One of the biggest shop here) about this servo. I do not even know any manufacture drivers use this Servo. In one review (I cannot remember that specific magazine), they claim that hitec is lowest brand of servo in its class. Also, in 5th scale cars. Some of the 5th scale that somewhat ready to run have this servo already w/ the car I am not just probably itd cheaper than multiplex.

Anyway, that is good if u have a great exoperience w/ hitec u should stick w/ it. I am still not sure on the comment if I want to use this servo. So far ko, JR, Sanwa and Airtronics are in demand. Lots of drivers and manufature drivers use KO its been proven that is a great servo as. In my opinion, any servo out there even the most expensive one will have malfunction effects when u crash to a board or something. In any word stay away from the boards!!!

[jason102276]

out of the 6 hitec digital servos i got 4 have failed within a year

they are ms-5925mg

most if not all were throttle servos

i use the abs and i think that is where the problem comes from

i had a regular cheap hitec servo something fast with aprox 50 oz torgue in my electric sedan last winter i had many accidents where the front of my xxx-s was destroyed never did the servo give me 1 sec of problems

i think hitec servos are the ntc3 of the servo world when they work they are great but mess up and they are destroyed

[helotaxi]

Most throttle servos fail due to improperly set endpoints. The servo is trying to move to full travel but the linkages only allow it to move say 80%. Most good FM radio systems have endpoint adjustment and that is why FM systems are recommended for nitro cars.

[Sike]

I have 2 5625, 1 5645.... one of my 5625 is messin up on me.. it's like possessed or something... It's about less than a year old... do I think I can just send this to hitec without the reciept or do I need to find it?

I have other hitec on my electrics yet none of them failed... even the 605bb which is 2 yrs old and tons of abuse on my stampede.

btw... I have a JR servo which came with XR3.. i think they're 40 oz. is that good enough for throttle on a gas car or what's the minimum? it's height seems to be lower than my 605bb and should fit under the upper deck

[jason102276]

on rctech.net there is a forum for hitec you should be able to contact them through there to ask if reciept is needed

i know some of the servos are marked with a date i saw it on a recall or something

[fasRC]

The stanadard servo wire works well in building ur battery pack,that is what i used. For connecting the batteries, i just fusesed togather some short wires and I heat shrinked them...still works great!


I use the Hitec 6925 on my MRX3 and the 645 mg for throttle on all my cars and I am very pleased with them........no problems with them at all....I guess its luck of the draw?????

[Digit]

can any1 please explain what the different roll center blocks r 4???i dont have the "setting sheet"

thanxxx

[helotaxi]

This site give a great explanation in fairly simple terms. I applies to all cars not just the MTX. Handling Guide. (http://users.pandora.be/elvo/)

On another note I just picked up a MTX-3 as a third nitro tourer. I won't get a chance to run it for probably 3 months. I am building it right now. Any suggestions or problems to look for? I already have universals all around for it, Ti shafts and Ti screws. I bought a set of Ti pillowballs but grabbed the wrong package (V-one set, fortunately I have two of them and one is really itching for some Ti balls.) I will be picking up the correct ones before I move here in a few weeks. Is there anything else I shoud be looking for?

[JWF_FRANI]

digit the roll center blocks raises and lowers the lower hinge
pin positions the A block with the lowest roll center B middle
setting and C with the highest roll center.
C gives the most overall traction. While A with give you the
most responsive feel.

for anybody looking at a replacement chasis here a pic of the
new RD logics chasis

[jason102276]

that chassis looks cool

how much and when will it be available?

i am getting the mugen 4mm chassis sometime early next week

but im sure some of the other guys would like to know

as far as building tips all i say is really just follow the instructions and you will be good

although you have to sand the brake pads for a proper fit without binding i have heard using the teflon pads eliminates that problem

what universals did you get i have had some universal problems so far and if i cant get them resolved soon i am going to run dogbones from mtx-2

[helotaxi]

I have universals by Eagle Racing. I also have a set for the front by Mugen that I'm not using. The Eagle Racing unis are what I use on my V-oneRR as well. They are very inexpensive at about $12 per pair. The are kinda hard to come by even here in Tokyo.

[puma1824]

A few questions before I buy:

1. Would I be able to run rubber tires correctly with the MTX3?

2. Does the rear always needs 30mm wheels?

3. Any hop-ups I should purchase right away to avoid any problems?

4. Does the Sirio .12 work with the clutch kit (Collet etc)?

5. Sirio/Mugen engine, which is better?

6. Is it really faster than the NTC3? (with equal gearing/engines) Only asking because that's what I have now ;) Possibly looking for something different.

7. Are parts expensive?

8. Which parts are weak? There's at least one in every brand kit - just an assumption.

Yes I'm a noob but would like to get into some racing this year.

Thanks,
Puma

[helotaxi]

Originally posted by puma1824
A few questions before I buy:

1. Would I be able to run rubber tires correctly with the MTX3?

2. Does the rear always needs 30mm wheels?

3. Any hop-ups I should purchase right away to avoid any problems?

4. Does the Sirio .12 work with the clutch kit (Collet etc)?

5. Sirio/Mugen engine, which is better?

6. Is it really faster than the NTC3? (with equal gearing/engines) Only asking because that's what I have now ;) Possibly looking for something different.

7. Are parts expensive?

8. Which parts are weak? There's at least one in every brand kit - just an assumption.

Yes I'm a noob but would like to get into some racing this year.

Thanks,
Puma

1. You SHOULD be able to run rubber tires on any car. If someone is telling you otherwise, I would question their knowledge or motives.

2. No. It is built to be able to accomodate 30mm wheels without modification, but they are not required.

3. I've asked the same question. Still waiting on some answers. As with any touring car, front universals are always a good investment.

4. You should be able to run any SG shaft engine.

5. They are both excellent engines and will be fast enough to win any race.

6. First, I have yet to find a car with 2nd gear as tall as the NTC-3. My opinion the NTC-3 is geared too tall. Puts it at a disadvantage on all but the largest tracks. You notice it shifting gears because of the huge difference between first and second. Now to answer your question, I doubt you would notice a difference in speed (assuming both cars were properly set up for the driver and the track) over the course of a race. Straight line drag with stock gearing, I would give the MTX the advantage off the line because of gearing. The NTC-3 would catch it eventually assuming the parking lot was large enough. The driver will have much more effect on the outcome of a race than the difference between these or any of the top nitro tourers, assuming you don't crash much. If you crash much at all you will be much faster with this car because it will survive a crash better than the AE.

7. They are cheap here in Japan, but one of the reasons I bought this car was better parts availability and cost for when I move back to the States here in a while. They may be a little more expensive and a little harder to find than the AE parts but you won't break as much so it shouldn't matter.

8. Not a valid assumption. All I have heard is horror stories about the durability of the NTC-3 and the growing pains of the Reflex. While these guys are trying to sort out their cars those of us driving the good Japanese cars have been out racing and fine tuning setups and running practice laps. The only question I have about this car is the lack of a brace to tie the front end of the front hingepins together. This transfers all the stress of an impact to one front tire to the bulkhead on that side. The bulkheads are pretty beefy so I'm not really concerned, but it is something I'll keep an eye on.

You can only learn by asking questions. I for one know that I am more than happy to pass on my experiences and observations to help out anyone that asks. Good luck on the track.

[smurf1122]

I would like to know what engines you guys are running in your mtx-3's. Has any of you guys gotten your cars clocked?? If so could you tell me what engine you are using and what was ur clocked speed.

[jason102276]

i have a modified 3 port sirio and a modded mr-12 both are quite fast but as far as actually being clocked i dont have access to a radar gun

i say it all depends on gearing with proper gearing for top speed and a large enough space i am sure the sirio would get into the 60s and the mr-12 wouldnt be far off

the mtx-3 isnt really designed for rubber tire racing but can be adjusted to accomodate them rubber tire racers usually run the shocks much straighter up and the roll center differently

i think ive seen someone adapted mtx2 rear knuckles onto mtx3 for running rubber tires and also had special shock towers which allowed more adjustment

honestly i think rubber tires dont give enough grip for touring car racing and that the ntc3 is setup better for running rubber

this past weekend at my local track practicing there were alot of good racers there and my car was great i was pulling them in on the end of the straight and everywhere on the infield i dont know if i was out motoring them or out handling them but the ntc3 guys were getting passed the other guy with mtx3 was much harder to get around and the guys with ntc3 spent a whole lot of time wrenching were i was able to just chill in between tanks

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by jason102276
this past weekend at my local track practicing there were alot of good racers there and my car was great i was pulling them in on the end of the straight and everywhere on the infield i dont know if i was out motoring them or out handling them but the ntc3 guys were getting passed the other guy with mtx3 was much harder to get around and the guys with ntc3 spent a whole lot of time wrenching were i was able to just chill in between tanks

That's the way it should be!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jason102276]

tekrsq did those guys (eric jack rob and tony) come down to race with you on sunday?

[tekrsq]

The 16th race was rained out. There was a race on the 9th, which was a make up for the rained out race that was supposed to have been the 2nd, but I had to work. I didn't hear that any of the guys came down though. The weather has been killing us!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[puma1824]

Well I just added another car to the collection...bought a NTX3 yesterday. I'll be using this new car along side my NTC3...so I have no favorites yet.

So does anyone have a good rubber setup for this car? I have a ton of rubber tires and wheels laying around and would liek to use for bashing around and some practice.

Thanks,
Puma

[jason102276]

good luck with rubber tires

stand shocks up as much as possible and change roll center block to c i think and maybe take away washers under rear upper arm

but i may be wrong cause i dont run rubber tires

you can use rubber tires if you want but the mtx-3 was designed to run foams

[puma1824]

Originally posted by jason102276
good luck with rubber tires

stand shocks up as much as possible and change roll center block to c i think and maybe take away washers under rear upper arm

but i may be wrong cause i dont run rubber tires

you can use rubber tires if you want but the mtx-3 was designed to run foams

so I can't run my new car with rubber tires correctly :(

[helotaxi]

With all the adjustability available on this car you could probably set it up to run on Krispy Kreme doughnuts if that is what you wanted to run.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by helotaxi
With all the adjustability available on this car you could probably set it up to run on Krispy Kreme doughnuts if that is what you wanted to run.

Well if anyone does run across a good rubber tire setup please let me know...don't need the Krispy Kreme setup ;)

Anyways still debating which engine/pipe combo to get.

[jason102276]

i am sure any car could be setup to run rubber tires

mtx3 is no exception it could be setup for rubber if you want

BUT WHY?

except for the fact you stated you have alot of rubber tires already why wouldnt you want to run foam

when i first started racing my mtx2 in novice class the rule was we had to run rubber tires

i spent a fortune trying to find a tire setup that worked when i bumped up to pro class i thought ive got all these rubber tires im going to still run them but when racing in the pro class i was getting smashed so i switched to foam and i ended up throwing my rubber tires away

the rubber tires were suposed to save the novice class guys money but i know i spent well over 100$ on useless tires and even the ones that hooked up would only last a day or two

a guy on rctech.net has this in his signature line

friends dont let friends run rubber tires on their nitro touring cars

its my favorite signature

[helotaxi]

Jason- I agree 100%. Strangely enough there are people who still insist that rubber hooks up better than foam. Of course these people also insist that you should use the same setup for foam tires and rubber tires, and I got sick of arguing with them. You can run rubber tires if you want but a guy with foam tires is going to have an advantage assuming he knows how to drive and setup a car.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by helotaxi
Jason- I agree 100%. Strangely enough there are people who still insist that rubber hooks up better than foam. Of course these people also insist that you should use the same setup for foam tires and rubber tires, and I got sick of arguing with them. You can run rubber tires if you want but a guy with foam tires is going to have an advantage assuming he knows how to drive and setup a car.

Not saying that you implied me but I didn't insist that rubber hooks up better. I just wanted to use rubber when bashing around a parking lot.

So still looking for tips.

Thanks,
Puma

[helotaxi]

Not referring to anyone in this forum, but rather another forum on this board.

[jason102276]

i understand not wanting to run foam tires for bashing in parking lots

i was thinking about getting medial pro tires for those rare ocassions when i feel like running in a parking lot

but during my engine break-in on my mr12 in a parkinglot next to my work and a trip to a parking lot race track i ruined 2 sets of belts and pulleys and scratched my chassis pretty badly so ive decided not to run in unswept parking lots anymore

[Sike]

I have set my radio to open the throttle not more than half way. I started the car and I hear it revving up... but the clutch didn't seem to engage. there's no binding on the brakes and when pushby hand it moves freely.

I have follow the manual illustration on how to install this centax clutch, this is my first one but I did what the manual says. Is there anything am I missing? btw, I lube the thrust bearing with some grease. The only I have was gear grease. I'll get some high temp one later.

btw, The thrust bearing opening faces the flywheel, correct?

TIA!

[puma1824]

Originally posted by jason102276
i understand not wanting to run foam tires for bashing in parking lots

i was thinking about getting medial pro tires for those rare ocassions when i feel like running in a parking lot

but during my engine break-in on my mr12 in a parkinglot next to my work and a trip to a parking lot race track i ruined 2 sets of belts and pulleys and scratched my chassis pretty badly so ive decided not to run in unswept parking lots anymore

This will be my first belted car...so should I expect problems often just bashing around with some friends?

[jason102276]

whether or not you have belt problems depends on where you are running

i was using a parkinglot that had most likely been salted during snow and it tore the car up

i am supposed to race at a parkinglot track tommorrrow hopefully it will have been swept before setting up the track and it also got extremely hard rain this past week i hope everything is ok

but if the conditions you may be running in are sandy or dirty it could become a problem

i also must admit i didnt break any belts or strip any gears but they were damaged so i changed them

[lbckevin]

Hey guys.

I was wondering where can I get the best price on the Mugen MTX-3 ? I am looking for the one with the motor. THanks for your advice.

Kevin

[puma1824]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Hey guys.

I was wondering where can I get the best price on the Mugen MTX-3 ? I am looking for the one with the motor. THanks for your advice.

Kevin

Ultimate Hobbies (LINK) (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com) sells them for $499.95. Lowest I found so far.

-Puma

[supra528]

ok, wat is the performance of the mtx3 compared to the 705???? like if they both had the same engine????

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by supra528
ok, wat is the performance of the mtx3 compared to the 705???? like if they both had the same engine????

Probably all the answers you get could be a little biased, but had an experience several weeks ago with a car offered by a semi official Serpent team with a brand new 705 and let me the enought time to try to setup the car from zero and play with it and get some impressions.

My impressions about this car are mixed, some things liked me and other didn't liked me. First of all is the 'difficult' to get a decent setup with this car (had previous experiences with many other cars and I have a grasp doing setups).

Didn't found a suitable setup, enough good to get the same times I'll do regularly with my MTX3 and the easy to do chicanes and tight sections on the tracks.

Liked all the lightening of the tranny, but lets you some margin to continue lightening if you need to.

Didn't liked the rear end and the myriad of screws, plates and structural parts needed for the body mount (one of the worst finished zones, IMHO), very prone to breakages if you get a T-bone under racing conditions.

Loved the shocks, are the same (or almost) found on the Xray and the easy of adjustment.

After getting 3 weekends testing the car, making mods to the setup and playing with it (used 8 litres of fuel in total with the car) liked much more my MTX3 and returned the car and will stick with it during all the season (BTW: didn't accepted the Sponsorship from Serpent with this car).

705, besides all the people say isn't a brand new car. Is an evolution from their Impulse Pro car. Someday, when serpent launch a completely brand new car, designed from zero will test another time, until this I stick with my MTX3.

[helotaxi]

Well... I guess there you have it.

[bighurt98]

For the past 4 weeks, I have been setting up my MTX 3 at each one of the races I have attended. This past weekend, I won my first overall lap leader at days end for our point series races. I been racing for just over 1 year and the MTX 3 is by far one of the easiest car to dial - in at any track. The top 2 drivers where I race, both race MTX 3's and are well ahead of the other racers in performance. The MTX 3 is the best possible choice to race if you want a top performing race car. I know, because I tested several different cars from the TC3, Impulse, MTX 2, HPI RS4, and Mugen MSX 3. The 705 is solid, but it is taking my friend much longer to get the 705 to compete with the MTX 3. MTX 3 is out of the box one of the fastest stock setup cars around and is so easy to make adjustments too, any driver from the novice to the PRO can make this car go fast with the minimun number of changes.

[adim_x]

anyone know what the battery for this car looks like, or have a link to a pic of one, i want to know if it is a total custom size, or if could assemble one at home

[Sike]

you can assemble using alkaline 4 AAA (6volts) 3 bottom and one top and connector. they have the mugen one for $30 thoug. rechargable 5 AAA

[Race4ever]

What is the best foam compound for a high wear low traction track, front and rear? I will be racing on an asphalt parking lot. Thanks for any information Jerry.

[adim_x]

hey guys, when assembling the servo saver how do i know which peice to use, a, b, or c, i am using a hitec digital servo 5945 i think, fast response appreciated, seeing is how im building the car RIGHT now, thanks adIm_x

[adim_x]

nevermind that last question, figured out my problem, didnt realize that was the ackerman thing, and it told me on the set up sheet what to use, newbie here

[adim_x]

how do you guys free up your drivtrain, mine is a little notchy, if you pull the large belt its smooth for a few inches, than a notch, then smooth, i have sanded the brake pads, and tried moving the pulleys on the rear a tiny bit to see if i could loosen the brake, that is where i think the problem is, but i could be wrong, i would appreciate any suggestions

[bighurt98]

Foam tires on asphalt or a parking lot depends on the outside conditions. I personally race this way;

Below 60 degrees: 35 shore front and 30 shore rear

60 to 75 degrees: 40 shore front and 35 shore rear

76 degrees and up: 45 shore front and 40 shore rear

Sometimes during the summer I run a 50 shore or the plaid two compound tire for the front to have a little more grip for acceleration and less tire roll over going hard into a corner.
If you need more grip for the rear, I drop to the TRC Tan rating or 37 shore.

But, 45/40 during the summer are your best all-around compound to use.

bighurt98

[bighurt98]

I sanded the pads twice and it took driving the car to help free the drivetrain up. Moving the pulleys don't help, but you can sand or grind the ventilated disk between the pads down 1/16 inch.

All your trying to do is to get so play between the pads.

Remember, since you have a oneway up front, under braking conditions the rear of the car will break loose and most times the rear will come around. Dial out most of the brake until the just starts to slow up. If you ABS braking on your transmitter, use it to help control the loose affect under braking. Your transmitter is the best way after freeing the drivetrain to control your braking.

[KulSecHskY]

Originally posted by adim_x
how do you guys free up your drivtrain, mine is a little notchy, if you pull the large belt its smooth for a few inches, than a notch, then smooth, i have sanded the brake pads, and tried moving the pulleys on the rear a tiny bit to see if i could loosen the brake, that is where i think the problem is, but i could be wrong, i would appreciate any suggestions

i had the EXACT same problem. its ur two speed. the clutch type thingy is catching.

step 20 was changed in the manual you should've gotten a supplement. you checked for any corrections to the manual before building rite? ;)

yeah just rebuild your two speed and you should be golden. check ur rear pulley also to make sure the belt is FULLY on the pulleys. you might have to adjust the brake pulley and move it more towards the center of the car =)

[us_matrix]

Did anyone buy the MTX-3 w/engine,pipe,header pacakge?
I was wondering that it comes with MT-12 or MR-12 engine?

Please confirm

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Did anyone buy the MTX-3 w/engine,pipe,header pacakge?
I was wondering that it comes with MT-12 or MR-12 engine?

Please confirm

Mine came with the MR12 turbo engine. I was told the first 200-300 kits in the US had the turbo MR12 in them, while subsequent kits had the standard MR12. Another guy here recently bought one; his came with the standard MR12, but it had a couple of revisions to the chassis as well.

[KulSecHskY]

umm mine came with the MT12

i uno maybe MR12's were on backorder so Mugen just threw in some MT12's???

[adim_x]

I found out my drag problem, my brake was hanging up a bit, so i bent the two pins you press in the chassis to give it just a bit of room, and now it works great i had tried moving all the pulleys around, and my 2 speed was good, brakes work great and car drives smooth, i broke in my rb x12 turbo, and this thing is a rocket. this is the second mtx series car i have had, but i had the same brake drag on my mtx 2, now its fixed cant wait to race this badboy.

[xfader]

Anybody suggest what gearing to run at Crystal Park?

[Nofri]

Does a nitro engine with pull starter fit in the mtx3 or is a starter box a must?

[tranced]

u must use a starter box.

you cannot fit a pullstart equipped engine in.

[turbochrgdRICE]

Hey guys. I might be getting a MTX-3 sometime this week but i was wondering where the on/off switch goes if you are using the transponder mount??

thnx.

Does anyone know where I can get a Mtx-3 cheaper than $325? (ultimate hobbies).

[Nofri]

Originally posted by tranced
u must use a starter box.

you cannot fit a pullstart equipped engine in.
Ok thanks.

I have droven en built three electric touring cars now, can I build the Mugen MTX3 as my first Nitro Car?

[puma1824]

StevePond if your out there....

Which (manufacturer) aluminum servo horns did you use when building your MTX-3?

Thanks,
Puma

[tekrsq]

Originally posted by turbochrgdRICE
Hey guys. I might be getting a MTX-3 sometime this week but i was wondering where the on/off switch goes if you are using the transponder mount??

thnx.

Does anyone know where I can get a Mtx-3 cheaper than $325? (ultimate hobbies).

Technically, I think you are supposed to use one or the other. HOWEVER, I've seen guys using both, but the switch actually gets mounted upside down.

Also, there is an aftermarket paiece that allows you to use both the switch and transponder. I think it's sold by www.justrc.com .

[turbochrgdRICE]

Yah. thnx tekrsq. i found out about that site earlier last night cuz i actually read most of the posts in this thread. Now onto the good news! I'm getting my Mugen MTX-3 tomorrow!!! YAY!! :D :cool: I can't wait to get it.

Do you recommend getting the MTX-3 front universals or just using the mtx-2 front dogbones??

thnx

[turbochrgdRICE]

I forgot to ask this with my other post. Here's the question.

What type of servo horn do i use for the steering servo? Can i use one of those aluminum single type horns?? or do i need a servo saver for it?

thnx

[tekrsq]

Front universals are almost a necessity (as far as I'm concerned). Just make sure you get the Mugen brand. Some of the aftermarket units are very weak.

I use the Ofna aluminum horns. The servo saver is built into the ackerman pivot.

[waileun]

Hi, does anyone know of any website that talk about how to setup the MTX3? I find that manual only talks about fixing up the car and do not talk about the tuning... I have the car all fixed up but do not know how to tune it.

[waileun]

Hi, does anyone know of any website that talk about how to setup the MTX3? I find that manual only talks about fixing up the car and do no