TTR Dt-10 [Archive] - Page 2 - Radio Control Zone

pistole

11-25-2002, 07:44 PM

before I say anything else ......... DO NOT wrap your Rx antennae wire around your fuel pipe ( this applies to everyone out there ). They don't supply you that plastic-pipe thingy for nothing.

Moving on ................

That is a nice pic of whats left of your car. At least its still basically recognizable as a DT10 ... LOL.

I ran my DT on asphalt yesterday evening after dinner..... the roads had dried up a bit after the rain ....... the car was flying great ... I have charged up the igniter last night .........

I have a confession to make ...... the DT10 is more fun to drive than the EK4. She's faster , more manouverable and easier to trash. But the EK4 has 'show-off' written all over it.

Later , I may try to get an OS engine to replace the 0.15 in the DT10... but the stock engine is still going strong so I have no complaints thus far.

As for the two speed ....... the Store is telling me no ..... not without major mod work ... and I think that basically they're trying to tell me that its not worth their time ........... but they do have the 2 speed parts in stock for other cars ( like the Kyosho V1R ) ....... I really do not know whether it will fit .......

I have poured engine oil ( from my car ) into my shocks ...... and they're doing fine ........ nice handling and controls the car nicely. But the rear ones are still leaking ....... I have to find a way to fix the seal.

Bye and safe runnings.

pistole

11-26-2002, 12:07 AM

hey , I forgot to mention , the scenery/weather in your action pics are really pleasant ..... which part of Down Under are you from?

I've been to Perth and thereabouts ..... nice warm weather there.

Bye and safe runnings.

nitrorich

11-26-2002, 01:33 AM

Pistole....

I indeed come from Perth, Western Australia. I live north of the river- if that makes any sense!!!

Yeah, I love the climate here, although probably not as consistent as where you come from.

to stray a little...

I have continued to work on the 'hot pink' theme. I bought last night a silicone tuned pipe coupler, anodised aluminium 3mm nuts(to replace those cheap yellow ones on the shock towers), servo horns all in that wicked colour (well I think so, anyway).

more pictures maybe......

regards

DCLXVI

11-27-2002, 12:17 AM

before I say anything else ......... DO NOT wrap your Rx antennae wire around your fuel pipe ( this applies to everyone out there ). They don't supply you that plastic-pipe thingy for nothing.

I know...I tried that setup the week before and it was working like a dream...had flawless control about 100 meters away...then went to another place...worked 10 meters...

/DCLXVI

Attachment: Teh kyosho shocks...this weekend I will drill some holes in the front shock tower to increase the eide height somewhat....

pistole

11-27-2002, 01:01 AM

those shocks of yours look kind of OILY .................. like mine ... except that mine are leaking like a sieve.

LOL.

Bye and safe runnings.

pistole

11-27-2002, 06:52 AM

helllloooo

pistole

11-27-2002, 06:54 AM

Better days ....

pistole

11-27-2002, 06:57 AM

and bullying the little one .....

DCLXVI

11-27-2002, 09:55 AM

Originally posted by pistole
those shocks of yours look kind of OILY .................. like mine ... except that mine are leaking like a sieve.

LOL.

Bye and safe runnings.

Except that they are supposed to look like that...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

11-27-2002, 09:56 AM

Originally posted by pistole
Better days ....

Mine is worse...I'll post a pic later this week...

/DCLXVI

pistole

11-27-2002, 10:08 PM

HEY ! This thread is really rocking now !!!

MORE PICS ! MORE PICS !

I finally got down to tuning my DT 10 last night .... by balancing the throttle stop screw vis a vis the High Speed Needle and also adjusted the linkage ....... so now the DT can idle forever , steady, and rockets away like a bullet.

Have you tried ( on asphalt ) , a standing start , then FULL THROTTLE .......... it is really a sight to behold ..... the DT is really fast.

I like my DT !

Bye and safe runnings.

nitrorich

11-27-2002, 11:29 PM

yep me too....

and you guys are responsible for telling me to get one, thanks!!(No, dont accent the 'thanks' sarcastically)

well I have more pink stuff (when am I gonna stop). I now have the 4mm nuts that hold on the front bumper and all 4 wheel nuts in anodised pink, zip ties( for the muffler & cables) and antennae holder.

I also put on some stiffer front shock springs(traxxas 2.6 weight red)- they are a perfect fit!! I did this 'cos on very fast jumps the nose dips a little ie when you come of the throttle nearing the launch of the ramp, the front shocks dont kick off enough, hence, it takes off with a nose-down attitude. Of course you just tap the throttle & the nose will lift. The pre-loaders on the std. shocks didnt help much??? Still untested, though.

know what I'm rambling 'bout?

how about some action shots of your DT's ???

pistole

11-28-2002, 02:35 AM

G'day mate.

I think that there is almost no time difference between Malaysia and Perth.

Anyway , glad that you're liking your DT as much as I am. Properly tuned , she is really really quick ... the light chassis and 2wd contribute to the outright speed. Handling wise ... well... it could be better.

With the pull start , she is so convenient to run.

I am thinking of getting a larger clutch bell to get better top speed .... will see if the store has anything like this later. And my rear tyres are going BALD again !!

Too much asphalt time , I guess.

I will try to get some action pics done ... but that would require the services of an assistant .. who are in short supply at the present moment....

Bye and safe runnings.

DCLXVI

11-28-2002, 01:02 PM

pistole...I've fount the stock tires to be quite the all-round tires but they will indeed wear fast...

One tip would be to buy new rims and attach street tires to them and then but some "real" off.road tires (from Parma/Proline or other brand, I have found that Parma/Proline is qiute good at making tires...) then just change tires when going asphalt/grass...

Hope I'll get the new diff housing tomorrow...hope, hope, other wise me and my cousin (213 on this board) will run his USA-1 (probably)...but I'd really like to run both at the same time...with his soon broken in, it will be quite fun... :D
Also I WILL put a Zip-tie round the servo-saver this time...tired of replacing that infernal device so often...I can't understand why the guys at TTR made that design when both the SSR and SSB have the much wider used design that probably resides in the EK-4... :(

Oh and what time zone are you two on (I'm on +1 GMT, central european time...)...

Oh...and action shots...All I have are my movies...I could take some stills from theese but I will be best veiwed in motion... :p

/DCLXVI

nitrorich

11-28-2002, 06:21 PM

I'm GMT+8hrs,

Pistole, you probably are too- what part of Malaysia are u from?

hope to have fun tomorrow.....goin racin' with some more 1/8th buggies & some other 1/10th trucks.

bye

pistole

11-28-2002, 08:32 PM

I think that your advice about the different tyres mounted on different rims is the best for my situation.

Only that my LHS has a limited selection ( ie , no selection ! ) of tyres ( at the 2.2" class ).

Did not have a chance to go to the Store yesterday.... work ....

So I will try to go after office today. Lets see , new larger clutch bell.....

Bye and safe runnings.

pistole

11-28-2002, 08:35 PM

There is , almost , no time difference between Perth and where I am at ( just at the tip , bordering Singapore ).

So when you're having fun with your DT , I am probably also having fun with mine ! DCL would be probably still be sleeping .... in Stockholm........ LOL.

My DT is healthy ... especially after I had tuned it ... I am happy.

Bye and safe runnings.

System

11-29-2002, 06:29 AM

Jasså det fanns lite grabbar från Sverige här :D
Har precis köpt en DT-10 som funkar bra.
Har dock problem med att hitta reservdelar/options till bilen i Sverige :(

DCLXVI

11-29-2002, 01:58 PM

Originally posted by System
Jasså det fanns lite grabbar från Sverige här :D
Har precis köpt en DT-10 som funkar bra.
Har dock problem med att hitta reservdelar/options till bilen i Sverige :(

Var bor du? Uppgraderingar finns det ont om dock så kan man använda delar från andra bilar/tillverkare och sen kan man tillverka själv (som jag gjorde med mina karossfästen...
Reservdelstillgången är det inga större problem med...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

11-29-2002, 02:11 PM

Originally posted by nitrorich
[...]

hope to have fun tomorrow.....goin racin' with some more 1/8th buggies & some other 1/10th trucks.

bye

How does the DT-10 handle the competition handling-wise?

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

12-01-2002, 10:44 AM

This is what a used chassi sould look like!!!

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

12-01-2002, 12:48 PM

Body post mod....

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

12-01-2002, 12:52 PM

Cool tires...

/DCLXVI

nitrorich

12-01-2002, 06:39 PM

I've arrived at the conclusion that the DT-10 is not the best handling beast. The 1/8th buggies are far superior in the tight corners. I've found that in real tight corners if you let off the throttle the diff sort of gives way(ie inside wheel loses traction) because of excess body roll(it is, after all, only a gear diff). So, the answer is to sort of power into the corners;so that you slide into them rather than break & accelerate out of them like the buggies???

does this make sense......?

by using this method you can match them. The 1/8th buggies can't seem to use this technique 'cos of the grippy tyres they use(ie. they roll over)

The track was grass, so for soil it will most likely not work.

I still cannot master fast(low) jumps-it just keeps nose diving I tried the new shock springs...better, but still not fantastic?

any ideas?
1/2 throttle - the car lands on all 4's perfectly. Full throttle:head in sand.

pistole

12-01-2002, 09:21 PM

Hey , great photos , DCL............... your chassis does look like the dog got to it !!!!!!!

Are those new rims that I spy ?

Handling
________

Yes , NITRORICH .... the DT10 is not the best of handlers...... I have been able to reduce the amount of steering slack by tying a small zip tie around the servo saver's "C" collar ........ like DCL said, this really works !!! Amazing.

I crashed it heavily again yesterday ......... as in you case , NitroRIch ..... after a jump she lands heavy on the front... resulting in an END over END tumble AT TOP SPEED !!!!!!!!

Just a broken shock mount screw ... thank goodness.

Bye and safe runnings.

YOU GUYS ARE GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GREGG

12-03-2002, 02:54 PM

i live in states and i have one but can not find parts and if you guys are interest another one drop me a e mail

DCLXVI

12-03-2002, 05:33 PM

Originally posted by GREGG
i live in states and i have one but can not find parts and if you guys are interest another one drop me a e mail

Have you checked your local dealer for the parts?
What part(s) is broken?

check acehobby for the list
http://www.acehobby.com/acehobby/dealers/dealers.asp

or you can try this link : http://www.ehobbies.com/

/DCLXVI

GREGG

12-03-2002, 06:09 PM

could you email me a explode veiw of dt 10 if you have one so i could tell you what i need help me

GREGG

12-03-2002, 06:11 PM

pettigrewclowers@aol.com

DCLXVI

12-04-2002, 03:08 PM

Sorry for little reply in a long time but I have been busy! Check the result!!!

Nitro R/C (http://nitro-rc.has.it)

DCLXVI

12-04-2002, 05:02 PM

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Sorry for little reply in a long time but I have been busy! Check the result!!!

Nitro R/C (http://nitro-rc.has.it)

Anyone want's anything hosted? I got my own webserver now!!!!

Oh and since I forgot to do this earlier I might as well tell you all how teh weekend went...
Saturday me and my cousin (213 on this board, he's the one with the USA-1) went to a BIG parkinglot and had some fun around 21:30 and were running for about 45 minutes when my pullstarter started to stop winding in the cord and I had to abandon the last run when I was just about to show 213 how fast I found the DT-10 to be. Pistole - your lecturing me for downgrading the speed of the DT-10 is absolutly right, it easily does 50 km/h (not MPH)...
Well, at home dismaneling the pull-starter and finding that the platic that holds the cord-spring is somewhat worn (misshandling) I screw everything back together and on the Sunday we went for another trip, this one we made at about 12:00. The location was the driving ranch I've been talking about earlier and at first we ran both of our cars at the small make-shift gravel parking lot beside the "ranch" and after a few minutes 213's USA-1 isn't moving. When we inspect it we notice that the counter gear has moved some mm's up and is no longer engaging the idle gear on the crank shaft, this had been easy to fiz had we only brought all the tools but there is also a thing called heavy baggage... :)
Well anyways back to my DT-10 that was somewhat hard to start being that the pullstarter cord didn't want to wind completly back if the enginr didn't start, well started though the cord went in completly (probalbly due to the vibrations of the engine)...and it worked marvelous... I was running it on damp short grass and I had so much traction with the Pro-Line tires that the car pushed like crazy, I've never vitnessed anything like it : A rear wheel car that understeers whatever you try to do!!! I couldn't get the rear wheels to loose traction and had some small problems controlling the car in any speed due to the fact that I didn't have enough traction in the front wheels!

Oh, and by the way my LHS was quite starteld when I went and told him (tuesday) that I hadn't broken anything during the weekend... :)

If you feel sorry for yourselfe having to read all this rambling nonsense, think about me that has to write it!!! ;)

/DCLXVI

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-04-2002, 08:29 PM

Great WEBSITE !!!!

How were you able to set it up ? It must have taken you loads of time.......

As for my DT10 ...... she's going fine ... I am still looking for the best way to sort out the rear shock mount screw.... it broke AGAIN after I crashed it spectacularly by going end over end ...

Will report later when I take them both to the park to trash them later.

Bye and safe runnings.

NB : Great work on that website .... congrats !!

DEAR GREGG
_____________

Sorry , but wasn't there a schematic blow-up provided with the manual of the DT10 when you bought the car ?

Its really large and I can't scan it for you .............

Bye and safe runnings.

HEY NITRORICH
_______________

Have the 1/8 buggy boys eaten you up for lunch yet ??????? I can hear yer screams from over here ................ LOLLOLOL.

BYe and safe(r) runnings.

pistole

12-04-2002, 08:29 PM

pistole

12-04-2002, 08:29 PM

pistole

12-04-2002, 08:29 PM

DCLXVI

12-05-2002, 12:21 AM

Eh, quadruple (sp?) post?!?

Pistole - I've helped Gregg, sent him e-mail with the links I posted last week

That page took about 4-5 hours to set up, the server I already had, just a small matter of installing Apache on it and figuring out how that worked... :)

/DCLXVI

nitrorich

12-05-2002, 02:23 AM

Hi Guys,

hey pistole - 4 x replicated posts!!!- you obviously have not had your DT-10 nitro injection today. That itchy finger had got to be scratched! LOL at your expense. J/K

DCL- nice web layout- maybe you might want a few more colours & borders etc. Only early days yet I guess.

my DT needs a bath.

Have any of you blokes tried cleaning your cars with a air gun/compressor? Just thinking (v.unusual) about trying it out

c u later....

pistole

12-05-2002, 02:30 AM

Dear DCL & Nitrorich,

Sorry for the Quads. The server was not responding over here so I ended up keying "post" a couple of times ( in my abject desperation )............... so the result was .........

He He.

Hey , have any of you seen some of those R/C Helicopters in action ?

Here's a vid just to wet your appetites ......

http://208.169.227.155/video/heli3.mpg

Bye and safe runnings.

danmark

12-05-2002, 10:46 AM

Hi guys just bought the dt 10.,,ive already got a t-maxx 2.5 but i saw this truck and had 2 have one.
not broke here in yet ,hoping 2 do that this weekend.
just a couple of questions, the user man does not realy explain the break in clearly,do u need to do short bursts and then break slowly over the first 2 tanks, and then procede on to 1/2 , 3/4 , full throtle
over longer distances???
Also the user man explains setting the low speed mix??my car has no low speed mix,hum,hum,,also does the high speed mix need 2 be 4 turns out or 4and1/4 witch is my understanding of the user man??may be im am wrong.

Hope u guys can help me out..

DANMARK,,,,,,

DCLXVI

12-05-2002, 12:26 PM

Hello Danmark, we are pleased to see that yet another person has found his way into this very cozy place... :)

In my manual (the yellow on for the engine) it clearly says :

"Because your Thunder Tiger engine has been precision made from quality materials and is an ABC-type engine, a prolonged break-in period is not necessary. In fact, your engine can be run in your car ro break it in.

1) We strongly recommended a fuel containing 20% caster oil or castor/syntetic blend with no more than 10% nitromethane be used for break-in. We strongly discourage using fuel containing only synthetic lubricants during the initial break-in period

2) Turn the needle valve clockwise to the fully closed position and back counter-clockwise about 2-2½ turn. Start your engine as described above.

3) Use the throttle-stop screv to set the idle position (with the throttle opening approximatley 1 m/m) where the engine runs with a fast idel but without engaging the clutch. Then, disconnect the battery from the glow plug.

4) Let the car run down the longest available straight, or at least, around a wide curve of sufficent radius to permit full-throttle driving and allow the engine to consume the entire tank of fuel a this needle setting. If it stops from being over-rich (i.e. dense smoke comming from the exhaust), close the needle 1/8 turn and re-start the engine.

5) All adjusments during the break-in will be made to the high speed needle valve. If your engine stops in the mid-range or does not accelrate smoothly (when throttle is opend from any setting above idle), please adjust the mixture metering screw as described in the CARBURETOR ADJUSTMEND paragraph after break-in.

6) After the full tankfull, allow the engine to cool for a few minutes before re-filling the tank. Then close the needle valve 1/8 turn ad restart. During the second tank of fuel, run the engine at alternate throttle settings (i.e. 1/2 throttle for 30 seconds, then full throttle for 30 seconds, etc) for about half the tank. Advance the throttle to full, and slowly lean the needle settings (about 1/8 turn at a time) until the highest speed is obtained (the smoke has thinned to a light grey).

7) At this point, richen the needle setting about 1/8 (counter-clockwise) and run the third tank of fuel at this needle setting. After 4-5 runs, your engine will be completly broken-in and ready for consistent performance."

Hope some of this will help...ask otherwise. BTW I did not follow this and had some trouble at the start but my engine screams now...

Oh, and I reserve myselfe from any spelling errors in the above text...

/DCLXVI

danmark

12-05-2002, 01:59 PM

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Hello Danmark, we are pleased to see that yet another person has found his way into this very cozy place... :)

In my manual (the yellow on for the engine) it clearly says :

"Because your Thunder Tiger engine has been precision made from quality materials and is an ABC-type engine, a prolonged break-in period is not necessary. In fact, your engine can be run in your car ro break it in.

1) We strongly recommended a fuel containing 20% caster oil or castor/syntetic blend with no more than 10% nitromethane be used for break-in. We strongly discourage using fuel containing only synthetic lubricants during the initial break-in period

2) Turn the needle valve clockwise to the fully closed position and back counter-clockwise about 2-2½ turn. Start your engine as described above.

3) Use the throttle-stop screv to set the idle position (with the throttle opening approximatley 1 m/m) where the engine runs with a fast idel but without engaging the clutch. Then, disconnect the battery from the glow plug.

4) Let the car run down the longest available straight, or at least, around a wide curve of sufficent radius to permit full-throttle driving and allow the engine to consume the entire tank of fuel a this needle setting. If it stops from being over-rich (i.e. dense smoke comming from the exhaust), close the needle 1/8 turn and re-start the engine.

5) All adjusments during the break-in will be made to the high speed needle valve. If your engine stops in the mid-range or does not accelrate smoothly (when throttle is opend from any setting above idle), please adjust the mixture metering screw as described in the CARBURETOR ADJUSTMEND paragraph after break-in.

6) After the full tankfull, allow the engine to cool for a few minutes before re-filling the tank. Then close the needle valve 1/8 turn ad restart. During the second tank of fuel, run the engine at alternate throttle settings (i.e. 1/2 throttle for 30 seconds, then full throttle for 30 seconds, etc) for about half the tank. Advance the throttle to full, and slowly lean the needle settings (about 1/8 turn at a time) until the highest speed is obtained (the smoke has thinned to a light grey).

7) At this point, richen the needle setting about 1/8 (counter-clockwise) and run the third tank of fuel at this needle setting. After 4-5 runs, your engine will be completly broken-in and ready for consistent performance."

Hope some of this will help...ask otherwise. BTW I did not follow this and had some trouble at the start but my engine screams now...

Oh, and I reserve myselfe from any spelling errors in the above text...

/DCLXVI Tanks for replying so soon,uve made it sound mutch easier, ma y be my user man is slightly different than yours,,i dont know?anyway thanks for the time and info , and i will let u know how i get on over the weekend "THANKS"

DANMARK.........

DCLXVI

12-05-2002, 02:38 PM

Tanks for replying so soon,uve made it sound mutch easier, ma y be my user man is slightly different than yours,,i dont know?anyway thanks for the time and info , and i will let u know how i get on over the weekend "THANKS"

No problem...

Be sure to check my homepage, click WWW below...

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-07-2002, 09:53 AM

My DT10 is FASTER then an on-road CEN car ( with 2 speed , mind you ) !!!!!

I was ripping up a carpark today when a couple of CEN boys showed up. We ran the cars together .... and the DT acquitted herself very well.

One of them crashed his CEN into the curb at WoT. Only bits and pieces was left .... he had messed with his linkages and then immediately tested his car and ran it WoT , and then found that it did not have any brakes !! We had to dive for cover as the car came for us .... LOL !

Bye and safe runnings.

pistole

12-08-2002, 02:30 AM

I hope your breaking in went smoothly.

You can actually drive the car normally when breaking in the car .... just do not go past 1/2 throttle. After about 2-3 tanks full , you can up the pace and do alternate laps , some WoT , some half Throttle.

After 5-6 tanks , your car is there already , then you can slowly lean it out to get the best performance. Go by ear and see how the car is behaving.

Bye and safe runnings.

danmark

12-08-2002, 01:53 PM

Hi again guys

Broke her in today, had a bit of bother at the beginning, starting wise,may b because the engine was so tight, and boy was it cold, so that didn,t help things much ,haha.
Anyway went by the book and advise from u guys ,which i must say helped me out a lot.
Got through 4 tanks and just started leaning here out a bit, the motor soon loosened up and she seems to be going ok, till ilost a screw from the steering arm, must of just come loose and poped out,lol, never minde ill pick up an other in the morning, and try and take here out again to tweet up those final settings.
One other thing ,,those shocks seem a little on the soft side,ive been on tarmac today , but will be oing a bit of the grass thing as well, u recon changing the oil for some 40/50w??

Tanks guys.. SPEEK TO U SOON

DANMARK.................

DCLXVI

12-08-2002, 02:06 PM

I have been using 30w and 40w for quite some time now...but since I have changed the front shocks to kyosho shock I can't really tell witch one you sould use, but I think that 30w rear and the largest spacer would be quite good for asphalt/hard surfaces (not real off-road bashing), I tried running the car with ultra hard suspensin on rough ground anf that is not really funny...

/DCLXVI

Kyosho shocks:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/IMG_012.jpg

danmark

12-08-2002, 03:19 PM

Originally posted by DCLXVI
I have been using 30w and 40w for quite some time now...but since I have changed the front shocks to kyosho shock I can't really tell witch one you sould use, but I think that 30w rear and the largest spacer would be quite good for asphalt/hard surfaces (not real off-road bashing), I tried running the car with ultra hard suspensin on rough ground anf that is not really funny...

/DCLXVI

Kyosho shocks:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/IMG_012.jpg Thanks, ill try the oil change and see how it goes, try and get the happy mediun for tarmack and grass.......

DANMARK,,,,,,,,,,,,

pistole

12-08-2002, 07:22 PM

4 things :-

(a) zip tie your cylinder head ( for when you flip the car ),

(b) locktite all the screws,

(c) put some balloon / shrink wrap around the shocks to prevent ingress of dirt ... destroys the inner seals resulting in shocks that can hold their OIL !!!! , and

(d) bag your rx & battery.

Bye and safe runnings.

DCLXVI

12-09-2002, 03:30 PM

DANMARK : (whats with that nick? That means Denmark in Swedish!?) So long as the grass is not "bumpy" it won't matter/you sould have hard springs/shocks...

Pistole: (a) Isn't really that nessecay as long as you keep the body on (and using my body-post-mod)...
But (b) is the most important step...don't loctite the screw that goes into plasics...loctite solves the plastics and eitherway doens't seem to help...
(d) Is not that important either but running in damp grass or in water puddles makes this point a MUST!!! Of course the Rx unit can take some moisture, but be on the safe side...the batteries are important to at the very least secure better than "stock", I had mine fly out once, I was lucky I didn't end up with a broken runaway, I had min. throttle and the engine just died... phew!

But all the point posted by Pistole are valid!

/DCLXVI

Oh, and by the way - some major updates on the homepage... :)
Check out the Carlsson 1/8 -80 car in the info and photo section...

pistole

12-10-2002, 02:16 AM

Hi.

DCL ......... I like the pics of the CARLSSON ..... looks positively great..... but the server was a bit slow when I was there ...

Great work on the Website though ....

DANMARK .... hope your break-in went smoothly . My DT is going fine .... I was thinking od installing a larger clutch bell with more teeth .. so a better top speed. Does anyone know whether one is available ?

Thank , bye and safe runnings.

danmark

12-10-2002, 11:27 AM

just pickedup some new shock oil ,gona do them tonight, think the left rear shock is leaking anyway,because the cars leaning slightly to the left.
im gona do the body post mod as well, thats a cool idea as they look rather flimsy, and will definightly break on the first roll.
as for baging the bats and rx, what u guys use,like a plastic zip bag or something.
PISTOL, thanks for asking ,the break in went fine.
As for the nic name "DANMARK" its the name of my building company,the last part of my name is dan, and mark is my partner.

speek to u guys soon

DANMARK........

DCLXVI

12-10-2002, 02:00 PM

as for baging the bats and rx, what u guys use,like a plastic zip bag or something

I use baloons...

As for the car leaning, that could be the shock mounting screws that are bent, they have a habbit of bending...I replaced the things that are mounted on between the screw and shock with metal ones, I haven't bent the screw since...

As for the nic name "DANMARK" its the name of my building company,the last part of my name is dan, and mark is my partner.

I see...hehe, don't try to expand to Scandinavia...that would complicate things some...

but the server was a bit slow when I was there ...

Forgot to shut down Direct Connect when I went to bed...that was probably stealing all the bandwidth, on on a 10 mbit line so there sould be plenty of BW otherwise (The fact that the server is located in sweden will make things slower of course...)...

I was thinking od installing a larger clutch bell with more teeth .. so a better top speed. Does anyone know whether one is available ?

More speed? I find the top speed to be almost to mutch...but thats probably just me... Could be that I may have more "off-road-terrain" here in sweden as it is (probably?) not as urbanised as malasiya...

/DCLXVI

nitrorich

12-10-2002, 08:56 PM

G'day fellow Dt-10 hoons,

just what I use for rx covers & Batteries:

I have the Kyosho Rx cover(pink-you can get other colours:D ). This way u just use double side tape to stick the Rx to the chassis. I used 2 strips so that the battery zip tie can go between them and so is completely out of view( the cover also holds my failafe & exta cables).

I made a 6 cell NimH pack up & heatshrinked it. I also glued a brass square tube piece to the bottom for the zip tie to go through. The result: a battery pack that lasts for ages & wont come loose...ever!!

I have already posted a picture of my chassis a couple of weeks ago. I'll see if I can get one of the other side.

bye

pistole

12-11-2002, 04:30 AM

Hi , Great to hear from all of you.

Nitrorich
___________

You have a really good set up rigged up there ....... sounds like you expended real effort in having your DT look and perform great. Nice to see that. My DT on the other hand looks like it is in need of some work ....... bits and pieces sticking out all over the place. DCLXVI even , almost , called my car ugly ......... sob sob sob.......

How was your run with the 1/8 off road buggy boys ?

I now know that some of those "on-road' cars are not really all that fast ..... ( eg the CEN cars ) .... but I have yet to see a 1/8 on road car perform .... I hear that 70 mph ++ is nothing to these 0.21 missiles.

DCLXVI
____________

Great work on the website. I wish I had the knowledge and time to do such things. As it is , I am already drowning here from my backlog of work ........... augh ...........................

No need to bore you guys with the ugly details..

DANMARK
____________

Hope your DT is going strong. She is a good car , will handle alot of abuse and yet ask for more.............

Just remember to allow the mixture to result in a puff of smoke when you're accelerating / at WoT. You are quite safe there.

MY DT
________

Nice . Going great . The store had obtained my new shocks and shock tower , will pick them up later. No larger clutch bell though.... later they said.

Bye and the very safest runnings to all of you.

Christmas is coming .......... plan ahead !!!!!

DCLXVI

12-11-2002, 01:59 PM

DCLXVI even , almost , called my car ugly ......... sob sob sob.......

I din't mean it like that...but you could tidy up the electronics bags some and start to run with the body so you can ditch that spare tire on the shock tower...

I hear that 70 mph ++ is nothing to these 0.21 missiles.

Pretty expensive car with a two-speed mabey...

Great work on the website. I wish I had the knowledge and time to do such things. As it is , I am already drowning here from my backlog of work ........... augh

It's really not that much work in creating a basic homepage...maintaning it and designing all the fancy graphics are the big time consumers...

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-12-2002, 01:39 AM

No. 1 ............. put a small zip tie around the c-collar of the servo saver , like DCL said , this really works.

AND

No. 2 ............. put a couple of shims ON TOP of the servo saver between the servo saver's top plate and the aluminium servo mount ( ie the top chassis ).

This will work .. try it.

BTW , my rear tyres are BALD again.

Bye and safe runnings.

Jmorgan

12-12-2002, 04:36 PM

Hey,

I have been in this hobby off and on for a while, I havea electric grasshopper and rc10 electric..

Also currently building a battlebot.. (From scratch)..

I was in my hobby shop and spotted a 1/8 scale buggy. the guy told me it was a kyosho inferno he thought (volunteered) this is a local mom and pop store and he has it for 275 with engine adn remote. I Didn't see the remote but the bugg looks verrrrryyy clean and does not have a body (so what).. I plan to buy this unless you guys have anything bad to say bout doing this..

Also, you have to have a 'box' to start it where u put the rear tire on it and spin it to start.. can you build this cheaper?

Thanx

Jacob

nitrorich

12-12-2002, 07:38 PM

Hi Jacob,

this is really a DT-10 post. But since were not rude people......

Ive have a little to do with 1/8th buggies.

The infernos are a good car. Nicely built. It does depend on what model of inferno it i, though. The 7.5's are excellent. I have heard that the 6.5's had some engine heating problems (maybe thats why they are called 'infernos'?????)

try one of the inferno posts!

that's all I have

nitrorich

12-12-2002, 07:52 PM

about the starter...it spins the flywheel on the motor, not the rear wheels to start the engine.

a cheaper way, yes!

get an old kids pedal bike, turn it upside down pedal a few times with your spare hand and bring the chassis down on the rear spinning tyre. A quick start...just not as neat as a starter box.

bye

P.S. us 1/10 guys have pull starts on our motors, albeit at the expense of some power.

Jmorgan

12-13-2002, 05:06 PM

hehe SORRY, I really thought I posted in inferno I just reposted there askin why my post was deleted.. LoL, Sorry guys.. thanx for the tip tho and I really like that starting idea hehehee..

Jacob..

p.s great forum, been a while since I have beein this hobby but this seems to be a better forum then I was at last time.

pistole

12-14-2002, 10:22 PM

I was driving my DT on asphalt near my home when a CEN road car guy came by to run his car as well.

He was so impressed with the DT's performance and cheap price that he immediately took his full sized car ( and me as well ) to my LHS and bought a brand new DT10 to add to his road cars.

He loves the DT ... really fast.

Just to show that the best advertisement for a DT is just to drive it !!

Bye and safe runnings.

BTW , bought :-

1. New Rear Shock mount,
2. New Rear Rims,
3. New Rear Tyres,
4. And a Gallon of Gammalube (25%) fuel.

So my DT is going to be up to mark now. But I crashed it badly last night ... tore off a bit of the top fin of the Cylinder Head .... too bad . But its still runnings strong , so I am happy.

They did not have the new shocks ... next batch of goods from TTR , they said.

They had the new EB4 in .... looks nice........

AUGH....................

DCLXVI

12-15-2002, 07:16 AM

1. New Rear Shock mount,
2. New Rear Rims,
3. New Rear Tyres,
4. And a Gallon of Gammalube (25%) fuel.

1. Did the eb-4 one break?
2.Why new rims?
3.Still no 3rd party tires?
4.Does 25% work good in the DT-10? How much castor are there in it?

So my DT is going to be up to mark now. But I crashed it badly last night ... tore off a bit of the top fin of the Cylinder Head .... too bad . But its still runnings strong , so I am happy.

So it is starting to look like my cylinder head...

/DCLXVI

danmark

12-15-2002, 10:11 AM

HI GUYS

The break in went fine, and i changed that shock oil because she was a bit soft,but ive got a small problem now,wich im shure u guys can sort out for me,,lol.
When i press the front of the car down , the shocks dont seem to return back up, thus causing the tires to toe in /\ it seems to make the handeling a bit sloppy,, is the oil to thin or to thick???.
when the car is just sat on the floor, its fine,but when it starts to move ,over bumps they drop about 1/2" and stay there, hope u can help me out here??.

Tanx DANMARK................

DCLXVI

12-15-2002, 10:57 AM

Good to hear from you danmark, and good to hear that it's going good :D

To fix your problem you would have to stiffen up your springs one way or another...etither by using the preload spacers that follow the car or by buying new springs...

But remember the rougher the surface you run on, the looser you sould have the shocks set at (both springs and shock oil)...
Otherwise the car will just bounce around...

/DCLXVI

danmark

12-15-2002, 11:17 AM

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Good to hear from you danmark, and good to hear that it's going good :D

To fix your problem you would have to stiffen up your springs one way or another...etither by using the preload spacers that follow the car or by buying new springs...

But remember the rougher the surface you run on, the looser you sould have the shocks set at (both springs and shock oil)...
Otherwise the car will just bounce around...

/DCLXVI Thanx again for the speed reply,,i dont know what oil was in the car when i bought it,, but the shocks used to return , ive tried the spacers, they help a little, so im guesing the new oil is to thick,"fool me"
I m thinking of emptying them and may be try some 3 in 1 oil from the d.i.y shop,see if that works ok,, what do u reccon??/

TANX ,,,,DANMARK.........

DCLXVI

12-15-2002, 11:24 AM

As I told you guys, I piced up a Fail-Safe unit a few weeks ago...
I bought a GWS FS-01...so far so good...

http://www.gws.com.tw
http://www.gws.com.tw/english/product/aux%20circuit/fs-1.htm

Heres a pic of it...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

12-15-2002, 11:26 AM

If anyone wants to get a replacement body heres my tip:

Kyosho USA-1 body

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

12-15-2002, 11:35 AM

Originally posted by danmark
Thanx again for the speed reply,,i dont know what oil was in the car when i bought it,, but the shocks used to return , ive tried the spacers, they help a little, so im guesing the new oil is to thick,"fool me"
I m thinking of emptying them and may be try some 3 in 1 oil from the d.i.y shop,see if that works ok,, what do u reccon??/

TANX ,,,,DANMARK.........

Talk about speedy reply...I was in the middle of posting the two picture meassges...

If you empty them, you can see if you can change the inserts in the shocks also...that is a little round plastic plate with a small dent in it...different sizes of the dent makes the pild flow easier...I haven't experimented with this much but I have used 30w oil and 40 w oil from AE and springs from Kyosho (bought them before I bought the shocks) and with a swithching between 30 and 40 oild and using much stiffer springs I have been able to run good on most surfaces...

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-16-2002, 12:45 AM

HI !!!! Glad to see that we have picked up a new friend in DANMARK. Hey , DANMARK ..... nice to see you here. Hope your DT is going great.

As for your questions :-
______________________

The modified rear shock mount for the EB4 is still ok ...... but I wanted the DT10 to be original as regards to that department. So I bought the new rear shock mount anyway. I have already mounted it. I plan to move the ergal part onto my EK4 later when I find the time.

I had bought the new rims because my original ones are slightly out of shape ( maybe caused by the constant crashing !) ..... the drive hub pin has also deformed the plastic on the rim that mates with that pin. Did this happen to your DT ?

TYRES
_________

Yeah , no other tyres other than stock were available. Actually I do not have much complaints about the stock tyres except that they do not last at all. A couple of fast asphalt runs will render the threads bald very quick.

FUEL
__________

The GAMMALUBE fuel is actually what I started with initially before switching to BLUE THUNDER (25% also). The GAMMA fuel is great ...... easy starting and idling. Awesome top end.

CURRENT NEWS
_______________

I cleaned up the DT this weekend ....... she looks much better now.

Unfortunately , I am still undecided about the Failsafe. I see that you have bought yours already ..... does it work fine ? Was it difficult to install ?

Actually the latest crash that I had with the DT was caused by a strange phenomenon. I was going WoT on asphalt when I had to slow because i was running out of road (!!!!) ..... the strange thing was that when i let go of the throttle-trigger .... ie , to neutral .... the engine was still screaming WoT and looking eagerly for the curb.

I then panicked ..... put on full brake ( heard the engine finally respond slowly to the throttle closure ) and put full lock on the steering ....... the car was going very fast at that time. So she promptly flipped and rolled and cartwheeled , all at the same time. There were sparks flying everywhere from when the aluminium parts contacted the road. I thought , oh no , not again.

I am still trying to figure out what happened ...... I had a close look at the throttle/brake linkage again ( I think that it may have been a binding linkage that caused the throttle servo to encounter resistance ) and will test run it after office today. I will report later about the progress.

EXHAUST MUFFLER
________________

What NITRORICH said about the stock muffler is true. There is actually an internal baffle ( some kind of a plastic plate with holes in it ) in the plastic muffler canister. You can see in when you hold up the muffler in the light.

The canister itself cannot be opened up ( the plastic is thermo-bonded in the middle ) , unlike the metal ones.

What I did to get more power ( since I realised that the DT is MUCH MUCH faster when you remove the muffler completely and run it just with the manifold ---- the engine makes an awful racket but is VERY EXCITING and very fast as well ) ....... is to destroy that baffle with the judicious application of force with a long screwdrive and small hammer. Do remember to remove the left over pieces of plastic with a pair of needle nose pliers.

The resulting sound is throaty ( no more the high pitch whine ) and there is alot more power from the motor.

Do try it out ....... its worth it since it does not cost anything.

Cylinder Head
_______________

My head is now missing portions of the top fin because of the latest crash. By the way , it actually blew off a glow plug ( an OS No. 8 too !!! ) the other day because the plug loosen during a run.

I remember seeing a nice anodized blue head for the 0.15 engine at the STORE ......... will go and look for one later after office.

Actually , even with the damaged head , the car is running fine. I tested it a bit this morning.

Stock Glow Plug
______________

Oh , one small point here for the newbies. The stock glow plug that comes with the car is useless. Sometimes it causes erratic running .... you end up messing with everything else trying to solve the problem ..... when it is actually the plug.

Only buy the OS No. 8 plugs. They are the best and are really worth the money.

I found this out the hard way with my EK4 . The engine would cut out intermittenly after a WoT run. I messed with the mixture , etc etc ........ when in the end I traced it to the useless stock plug.

A valuable lesson there to be shared with you guys.

Bye and safe runnings.

DCLXVI

12-16-2002, 02:51 AM

I'm at work so I'll just make a short reply, longer when I get home...

Glow plug : I'm running Quick Fire F7 and that works really good, but I think that this is because it is an hot plug and it's cold here...I'll have to wait untill spring/summer and see...

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-16-2002, 08:22 AM

The problem was with the throttle servo. There are 3 wires leading into the servo ( red, white and yellow ) ... the red one was not soldered properly onto the potentiometer ( the circuit board inside the servo at the bottom - the gearbox is at the top ). It was actually hanging on by just one copper thread... this caused the problem with the servo not responding properly to commands.

I resoldered it and now it is running fine.

Do try the exhaust baffle removal .... the car is like a bullet now.

Bye and safe runnings.

DCLXVI

12-16-2002, 01:00 PM

I'm having some trouble with my throttle servo too...It responds very slow...and are running somewhat erratic...might be the same...but it seems to be working now...

drive hub pin has also deformed the plastic on the rim that mates with that pin. Did this happen to your DT ?

Well it has been doing that since I lost the original metal pin...

Unfortunately , I am still undecided about the Failsafe. I see that you have bought yours already ..... does it work fine ? Was it difficult to install ?

Buy it...it's just to connect it between the reciver and the throttle servo and adjust a small screw that tells the failsafe where it sould position the servo in the event of loss of contact...

I'll look into the muffler suggestion as soon as I start to dissasembel the car...

Sorry to hear about the crash bwt...

/DCLXVI

nitrorich

12-16-2002, 07:42 PM

buy it buy it!!

hi guys,

I have the same failsafe as you DCL,

Pistole you have to get one- they are worth their weight in gold!

V easy to install, just 1 pot. to adjust the setpoint: thats it.

hmmm so you're the noisy person in the neighborhood eh?? just watch that the ranger doesnt have a word with you.

sounds good but, dont it?

you just sacrifice a bit of bottom end (compared to a proper racing pipe)

catch ya

pistole

12-17-2002, 04:11 AM

Hello !

I am really glad that this thread has the quality and depth that it does.

What I mean to say is that what we do not have in quantity ( ie of members ) , we more than make up for in the quality and speed of the postings.

I think we all deserve a pat on our respective backs ....... more so DCLXVI , with his website up and running now. I stand in awe at the guys who have the time/energy & knowledge to do such things.

EXHAUST SURGERY
__________________

As for my DT10 , it is going fine. The Baffle Removal Surgery (with hammer and screwdriver) has resulted in a much better car , the engine breaths easier and the power comes on very strongly towards the higher end of the power band.

I did consider getting a proper metal tuned pipe .... maybe its something I will look into later . But for now , I am content with messing with the stock set up. Do try it out , its cheap and effective.

PORTING & POLISHING
____________________

Do any of you have any experience with PORTING and POLISHING the engine's intake and exhaust ports ? I remember doing it on my Austin MINI ( 1/1 car ) a long time ago , there was a marked improvement in the engine's power.

Is there the same effect for out little 2 strokers ? I have looked at the exhaust port when I removed the manifold for cleaning. It does look a bit undersized and the edges are sharp ( ie machine cut ) ...... I think that a couple of minutes on it with a Dremel tool (or for that matter , any drill with the suitable attachment) will improve the engine's breathing markedly.

Your thoughts on this would be more than welcome.

FAILSAFE
____________

I will think about it.

My fear is that the throttle servo problem that I had recently (refer above) would not have been solved/prevented by the FAILSAFE because the fault was not caused by some electrical interference or some other person being on the same frequency.

It was caused by a plain and simple connection problem in the internal wiring of the throttle servo which COULD have caused disastrous damage to life, limb and property had the car lost control and went into traffic or into some child. The Failsafe would not have addressed this issue.

I will rely on my Throttle Return Spring for now and see how things go with my sub-standard soldering !

REAR SHOCKS
____________

These are really causing me grief.

I do not have the time to strip them down to see whether it is the seal or something else causing the leaking.

Anyway , for now the shocks cannot hold their oil. So my DT's rear end is like a spring pole ...... you should see it when I am driving it fast , the car behaves really peculiar especially when doing a high speed turn , one of the rear wheels will kind of come off the ground and the car will pivot into the turn. Very cute .. but not very effective.

Don't even ask me how the car behaves when it jumps ...... it kind of goes , boing ... BOING ....... BOOINNNNG ............ and into the curb !

DANMARK
__________

You asked about your shocks not resetting after compression.

This is normal for the front shocks since the front rises when the car runs normally. The rear ones have very hard springs , so there is no problem there.

If you do most of your running on asphalt and that therefore you require a sharper handling car ....... then do as DCL suggested , ie either use harder spring all round AND/OR put spacers onto the shock body in order to stiffen the shock. There is a limit to how many spacers you can install before the spring begins to take the shape of a pretzel .... you get the idea.

If you really want your DT to behave like a road car .. then you would have to :-

(a) change the springs to HARDER ones,
(b) change the shock oil to GREASE ( basically, LOL ),
(c) install as many shock spacers as you can get your paws on,
(d) seal all the air escape holes in the rims to stiffen the tyres,
(e) change tyres to slicks ( or as near to slick as possible ),
(f) dial negative camber (5% and above) into all the tyres, &
(g) increase toe-in for the front tyres.

For a period of time I did mess with the settings to encourage the car to handle better on asphalt. It was quite successful in that body roll was largely eliminated. Body roll is the main determinant factor in restraining the DT from cornering and braking sharper. By Body roll I mean both side to side and fore-aft types of roll.

You could also try fitting anti-roll ( aka .. anti sway ) bars to the suspension arms .... but there are no mounting points available for the stock arms ... you would need to modify.

Ride height is also a factor , you could reduce this by re-aligning the shocks although the change will be slight at best.

STEERING SERVO
_______________

On a related note , I believe that the stock steering servo is under powered. This results in a not so sharp handling car .. you can tell by the large turning circle at speed ...... the servo is struggling to overcome the caster effect from the front wheels.

Mine is a stock HITEC HS 303. I plan to get beefier ones ........ we'll see later. Something along the lines of the 12 kg one that I have on my EK4 would do great ....... a bit pricey though.

DCL , does your FM radio come with a better steering servo ? Was there any improvement ?

GLOWPLUG
_________

DCL , sorry , I am not familiar with that brand of plug. I imagine that the weather where you're at is the main determinant factor in plug choice. Over here , we only have one weather ...... ie HOT HOT HOT.

BTW , what is the temperature there now ? Below Zero ?

Watch out for brittle plastic parts ............

DEADCAT
___________

What has happened to our feline friend ? Anyone heard from him/her lately ?

NITRORICH
_____________

G'day mate.

I heard on the BBC a couple of days ago that you guys had your annual DUMMY RACE ( ie the one where you mount a toilet bowl onto a wheeled sled , one guy sits on it and the other does the pushing ) ......... great fun !!!

Most of the blokes were pissed drunk before , during and after the race.

Hows your DT and your house building ? Tough . I did put up a wall ( ahem ......... ) a while ago ........ so - so effort.

Hope to hear from y'all soon. Bye and safe runnings.

DCLXVI

12-17-2002, 05:23 AM

Failsafe : You cannot go wrong with one more fail-preventing unit...as you saw from my pic, it's really small and light...

Steering servo : I'm using HS 545, 5 kg, high torque, witch works really good, as long as you put a zip-tie around the servo saver C... I think that the HS 525 (5 kg, high speed) would acually be better since the main problem with the steering is the C...

Temeratur/Climate: Yes the temp is Sub-Zero (Celsius) most of the time and this is the reason that I have decided to put the DT-10 on the shelf for the winter...
Mostly it is all the parts that are braking, secondly is the darkness (sundown at around 15:00, sunrise around 10:00) and third, have you ever stood still driving an R/C car in sub-zero weather with high humidity in the air and a strong breez? Well, it is damn cold! -5 deg feels like -20 deg!!!
I will get an Kyosho PureTen Alpha 2 elec car soon! That one I will drive in the winter since the lower speed would make less suspecable to impact...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

12-17-2002, 05:42 PM

OMG, OMG, OMG, OMG...sorry a bit exited here, just installed something for my web page...!

A Forum!!!

:D

I'm so happy right now...

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-20-2002, 07:54 PM

are ya still here ?

Sorry , I was helping out DCL with his Forum by posting some stuff over there and therefore , neglecting this thread here.

Hope that your DT is going fine ....... mine is really souped up with the baffle surgery and the new Gammalube fuel ..... she's really quick.

So quick in fact , I ran her on asphalt yesterday after work and at top speed , executed a turn and she promptly flipped over ..... broke that rear shock tower AGAIN !!!!!

Anyway , I have bought a new one yesterday evening. Had a look at the TS 4N road car ..... looks nice .......

We're having a 1/10 ( 0.12 ) road race this weekend over here ... I'll probably go over and support the Store's promotion a bit ... they've been nice to me.

Bye and safe runnings.

pistole

12-22-2002, 02:57 AM

Anyone out there ?

Hey , come on , post ! I beseech you .............

Bye and safe runnings

DCLXVI

12-22-2002, 05:42 AM

Did you buy that on-roader?

/DCLXVI

nitrorich

12-22-2002, 06:56 PM

G'day cobbers!!

I havent had a chance to drive my Dt-10 for 2 weeks now
:(

but it is holidays v.soon!!

anyway about performance.....particularly you pistole - it seems the power bug has bitten ya!

porting & polishing is quite an art. I have yet to experiment on nitro engines, however I have managed to wreck a few chainsaw engines through mods that have gone too far. I'd suggest just upgrading the engine.

but to gain some extra power why not port the header. It is easy and it is a cause for quite a bit of power gain. I did mine as soon as I got my DT. I guess it is something I just do(from my nitro boating) just dont overdo it or you'll go through the header wall. (I did this once but patched the hole with JB weld. (still hangs on after 3 years!!)

happy grinding

bye.......

pistole

12-22-2002, 10:07 PM

Hi , you buggers !!!!!!

Yeah , I am thinking of just grinding the header (aka manifold) first to see what happens.

I have indeed been bitten by the POWER BUG !!!!! I am going to see what other DIY mods that I can manage before I inadvertently destroy the engine ....... and then I can justify an ungrade to an OS CVR / Nova Rossi !!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't wait !!!!!

Bye and safe runnings.

BTW , DCL ..... no I did not buy that road car. It was 1 speed only (the RTR version) ..... and so I thought , no way for a road car to have only 1 speed ....... the TS4N PRO is 2 speed , but much more expensive ......... oh dear .

AND HAPPY HOLIDAYS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :) :) :)

MERRY CHRISTMAS and PEACE TO YA !!!!:) :) :)

pistole

12-25-2002, 09:44 PM

Hi , everyone ...........

NITRO RICH
___________

I was able to run my modified DT10 against my buddy's just-broken-in DT10 , head to head , yesterday and my car was one hell of alot faster !

It was really - really fun ........ can you imagine two DTs screaming and darting this way and that way , all along a long stretch (about 350 meters ... two lanes) of asphalt , rounding the cone and then screaming all the way back ....... wonderful.

I had inadvertently barged into my friend's car's rear. You should have seen my DT go flying into the air , over his car and land perfectly on all four wheels. Great time to be had by all !

The muffler-surgery really did work and GAMMALUBE is a very good fuel to use ..... my friend's car was using some other type (I think something from Model Technic ...... or some fuel like that , which was also 25% nitro) of fuel and he just could not catch my DT ............ I mean , even if I let him have a couple of meters run-out first , I could still catch him and pass before reaching the first cone.

The Cars are really fun , we had a great time ...... there were even spectators who came out to have a look ........... all were throughly impressed.

Hey , hows your racing with them 1/8 buggy boys ? Are those buggies much faster than the DT ?

Let me grind my header first and do a little porting on the exhaust ports later ....... we'll see whether I can strip the tyres off my DT on a standing start .......... wheeeee

Bye and safe runnings.

nitrorich

12-26-2002, 07:09 PM

hi all !!

pistole you're a man after my own heart. I cannot rest until I'm the fastest!!

yes I'm going as fast as the 1/8 guys. I actually made up my own 'c' collar out of brass for the servo saver, otherwise I wouldnt stand a chance against the big boys on a tight track.

That plastic 'c' is just too ordinary.

anyway keep racin'

C ya.

pistole

12-26-2002, 10:15 PM

Yeah , after racing her again last night , the Connnecting Rod broke at the wrist pin , and poked a hole through the crankcase ....... that is , bye , bye engine.

I am going to the Store to look at :-

an OS CV-R ,

a NOVA ROSSI racing engine , and

a TTR EVO 12 engine

Wish me luck ... I am building a real cracker of a car now !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bye and safe RACING !!!!

Gas_axe

12-27-2002, 05:04 PM

I have a DT-10 and have two problems the first is

When the car gets to running temp, you hit full throttle and you get a flat spot and the engine revs at low speed. Tryed adjusting the mixture and its still the same

Secondly the steering is slow to work and sometimes stops alltogether as if it were jamed, will changing from 4 cell batteries to 6 cell batteries help this problem

DCLXVI

12-27-2002, 05:36 PM

Originally posted by Gas_axe
I have a DT-10 and have two problems the first is

When the car gets to running temp, you hit full throttle and you get a flat spot and the engine revs at low speed. Tryed adjusting the mixture and its still the same

Secondly the steering is slow to work and sometimes stops alltogether as if it were jamed, will changing from 4 cell batteries to 6 cell batteries help this problem

First of all, if you are running NiCD or NiHM you could try changing to 5 cells (6,0 V) instead of 4 cells (4,8 V), if you are running 1,5 V alkaline cells you can't go any higher, 6,0 V are the maximum for the reciver (does not matter model or make!)...But try change the batteries or recharge them if they are rechargables...

The throttle problem: Does the car just go down in revs and then pick up again or does it die?
It sound to me that you are running somewhat rich. I have the car set so it does the down revs before it picks up, just to be sure (on the rich side)...

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-27-2002, 10:03 PM

Hi !!!!

I bought the TTR EVO 12 ( 5 port ) motor with 2 piece head , 3 needle composite carb with restrictor , etc ........

I installed it , starter it up and broke it in with 5 tanks of gammalube fuel ( 25 % nitro ) ..........

She's is one hell of alot smoother than my old engine ...... that carb is a beauty .... the engine idles really slow and steady .... no hesitation at all.

The power is slowly coming through .... she's still tight.

They did not have any OS in stock.

The Nova Rossi motors that they had are all rear-exhaust ...... and they did not have the serpentine header to fit it in. That and the guy warned me that the Rossi is seriously overpowered for my little DT10.

Looking at how beautiful the EVO engine is ..... I am now thinking of putting the 0.70 in my EK4 into storage and source an RB Concept 0.21 Buggy engine and fit it into the EK4 ............ does anyone have any experience with this conversion ?

I understand from the Store that its a straight fit and the RB engine is one hell of alot faster and can out run the 0.70 with a drop of the hat ..............

Here I go again ...... augh.

GAS AXE
__________

Hi. Are you the same guy with the EK4 (V1) over at the EK4 thread ?

If you are , how's your EK doing ? Returned it ?

Anyhow ..... for your DT's problem , it is very likely a Carb associated problem ....... why don't you take the carb off the engine ( its easy to do ) and totally dismantle it for cleaning , especially the jet assembly ....... then put it back on with a little bit of silicone sealer on the o-ring. Then tune the motor again from scratch.

Just By the Way , what Plug do you have on ? If its not an OS , then it belongs in the Bin ......... some erratic engine problems are caused by the plug ... its cheap , start there.

The STEERING problem is more difficult ..... could be a host of things wrong ....... try fitting another servo and test it ..... if not , then look at the servo saver ..... the batteries are rarely at fault unless they are really dead / dying.

Servos do not last forever , even with care ..... sometimes they just run wild and then they quit on you , just like that.

Lets hear how you turn out ....

Bye and safe runnings.

Gas_axe

12-28-2002, 03:14 AM

Yes its me with the EK-4, I took it back to the shop and got a full refund and got myself a DT-10 the guy was well helpful and changing the EK_4 was not a problem.

As for the DT-10 been using it all over Christmas and its so cool done the suspension adjustments on the camber ect and all went well. The steering and the flat spot is now my problem.

As for the flat sot, its ok from cold but as it warms up you put the power on and it "berererererererers" and engine RPM drops to tick over speed, as Pistole advised I have cleaned the carb out but have not had time to rerun it as yet.

As for the steering, on first use the car had super steering ,but now its totally crap, I use Nicad batteries and they only seem to last about one hour (strange),we tryed the swopping of the servo to ,all ok there. Its as if there is not enuff leverage betwean the servo and servo saver, will look into this today, will keep ya posted

DCLXVI

12-28-2002, 07:58 AM

Originally posted by Gas_axe
Yes its me with the EK-4, I took it back to the shop and got a full refund and got myself a DT-10 the guy was well helpful and changing the EK_4 was not a problem.

As for the DT-10 been using it all over Christmas and its so cool done the suspension adjustments on the camber ect and all went well. The steering and the flat spot is now my problem.

As for the flat sot, its ok from cold but as it warms up you put the power on and it "berererererererers" and engine RPM drops to tick over speed, as Pistole advised I have cleaned the carb out but have not had time to rerun it as yet.

As for the steering, on first use the car had super steering ,but now its totally crap, I use Nicad batteries and they only seem to last about one hour (strange),we tryed the swopping of the servo to ,all ok there. Its as if there is not enuff leverage betwean the servo and servo saver, will look into this today, will keep ya posted

Might be either that your servo is broke or that the servo saver has kicked the bucket...
The servo saver is a pain in the-you-know-where...
The "best" way of dealing with it is to put a zip-tie around it and change the servo gears if they break (full set of gears for the HiTech 30X series is a whopping 38 SEK) (10 SEK ~1 USD)...
It could also be some sort of binding within the steering assembley...
My steering is binding on the right hand side. Where the rod goes out from the steering, the ball-end binds against the screw that holds the chamber rod ball-pin (upper suspension arm)...
I haven't figured out why...

Oh, BTW, I bought a elec car...that I'm going to run during the winter...

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-29-2002, 01:12 AM

glad to hear that you were able to return that V1 EK4.

Why did you choose to get the DT10 ? Was it because , ahem ahem , of us here on the DT10 thread ..................

Anyway , you've got yourself a bulletproof car there in the DT ..... just go easy since its still new.

Bye and safe runnings.

pistole

12-30-2002, 07:36 AM

Hi , Have a look

pistole

12-30-2002, 07:36 AM

Hi , Have a look

pistole

12-30-2002, 07:38 AM

Pic here too.

pistole

12-30-2002, 07:41 AM

here .........

DCLXVI

12-30-2002, 08:49 AM

Nice, does it work better than the .15?...

I was figuring that an uppgrade to a .18 or maybe even Traxxas nev TRX 2.5 (or whatever it is called), would be more fun...
Since I run in (what seem to be atleast) more harsh terrain then you pistole I think that a .12 has to little torque/bottom end to be a worthy replacement for the .15 Pro....

I may just be wrong...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

12-30-2002, 08:53 AM

Oh, I forgot...my DT-10 is in 1,000,000,000 peices...maintanence...
One could say that it is in kit-form... :)

Pistole, can you take a pic of your old crankcase? I would love to see that hole... :D

/DCLXVI

pistole

12-30-2002, 09:33 PM

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!!

The new engine is very very fast ........ the real benefit comes from the much faster revs from the motor ....... the lightened crankshaft , con-rod and piston , better bearing and also the 5 Ports contribute to the outright speed of the engine.

I have run my new motor head to head with my buddy's stock DT10 and my car is still much - much faster ......

To be honest , I was really worried that the change from .15 to .12 would kill the speed/torque ..... and even the Store was not sure ....... but the proof comes when I fire it up , the idle is PERFECT , no hesitation at all from that 3 needle carb , and then let her loose ............

Great stuff . I had originally wanted an OS / Nova Rossi but they did not have any OS in stock and the Rossi engines were all rear exhaust ..... so not possible to fit without a special manifold (looks like an S).

Bye .

nitrorich

12-31-2002, 02:12 AM

hi guys,

Wow I have been missing out on some action.

Great new engine Pistole!!

You just had to go too far with the mods, hey? None the less the TT engine is OK. If mine blows I think I'll try the force .17 - .8HP and loads of torque!!

The navarossi's are 1 hp + but ?? bottom end.

gas axe.... just to add to the confusion. I had an identical problem to yourself, however, I new the mixture & carb were OK. It turned out to be the the tuned pipe inlet had melted. No power!! You might want to check it out. (also the baffle further up the pipe) I fixed mine with a steel racing one.

Bye all & have fun!!!!!

Gas_axe

12-31-2002, 02:48 AM

Hi there
sorted my running problem it was dirt in the carb, runns so fast now its untrue I love it. Still got problems with steering thou.Tryed cable tie around servo saver just stripped the gears on the servo (damn), so goint to try a high torque servo and a 6 cell battery pack.
Thanks again for the tips

pistole

01-02-2003, 02:52 AM

engines is that they create more power by being able to rev faster ......

That is why when you go with an OS / Nova Rossi / RB Concept engine ..... you are generally advised to drop a tooth or so on the gearing in order to allow the faster revs to come through.

Please see :-

http://rcnitro.com/rn/articles/dyno_15cvr.asp

and you'll get what I am trying to say.

The new EVO engine of mine positively SCREAMS when its at WoT. Great Stuff !

Bye and safe runnings.

danmark

01-02-2003, 11:34 AM

H i guys how are u all
By the way " HAPPY NEW YEAR" hope u had a good one.

The dt is going well, i did the body post mod, and boy is it much easier 2 re fuel and start.
Ive burned loads of fuel this week and not had much time for anything else,,lol,, lost the air filter on the last run,, but made a temp one out of an old shock oil bottle and some foam,,least i can still run till the new one comes in.
I changed the plug to,, got the os8, the car seems to run alot smother now,, or may be its my imagination,,lol.Had a play around with the shocks and they seem 2 be ok now,, well , hell of a lot better than before.
M y tires are getting a bit worse for ware though now,, u guys know any good ones?????? i do most of my running on tarmac and loose ground,,a link would be handy..

TANX,,,,,

DANMARK.................

DCLXVI

01-02-2003, 04:06 PM

M y tires are getting a bit worse for ware though now,, u guys know any good ones?????? i do most of my running on tarmac and loose ground,,a link would be handy..

Pro-Line has the best selection of 2,2" tires I've seen...

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/

/DCLXVI

nitrorich

01-15-2003, 08:51 PM

Yoo hoo, anyone here?? Or have you all buggered off???

pistole

01-15-2003, 09:41 PM

But have been busy with work , groan ........

will post more later.

bye.

nitrorich

01-16-2003, 07:09 PM

oh well, for those not on holidays or busy....

I've managed to machine up a aluminium servo saver. (not hard I know). Cos the servo that I've got didn't allow enough room for a zip tie(it rubbed on the rubber servo post cover-no good)

I'm gonna try it out tommorow!!!

apart from that I havent done much else.

oh, except for making an electric mountain bike...but that is another topic entirley-not for this forum :)

bye

Confuzed

01-29-2003, 03:59 PM

Hi everyone,

I thought I'd say "hi" - I'm another DT-10 owner, over in soggy England.

I've been reading back over this thread. You guys have done some cool stuff to the trucks! Its inspired me to start fiddling with mine again, hence I've just ordered a pair or Pro-line Dirt Paws! :cool:

At the moment my truck is fairly standard. I've fitted a failsafe, changed the shock oil all round, and I've changed the shock springs for blue EB-4 springs.

I'll get a couple pictures online and post a link here soon.

Cheers,
Confuzed.

Confuzed

01-29-2003, 06:07 PM

I'll get a couple pictures online and post a link here soon.

And here they are!

First of all you can check out my truck and those belonging to a couple mates on one of them's website, photoalbum.org.uk (mine's got the blue shell and blue springs):

http://photoalbum.org.uk/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=rc_trucks

We haven't grabbed many photos recently so I've just taken these so you can see the state of my truck now:

http://www.confuzed.org.uk/photos/DT-10/IMG_0010.JPG

http://www.confuzed.org.uk/photos/DT-10/IMG_0017.JPG

I'll try to remember to post a couple more when the new bits arrive.

Laters,
Confuzed

DCLXVI

01-30-2003, 01:32 AM

That is a perculiar coincident, I was at your "site" yesterday confuzed...and now you decided to come here...welcome... :)

Oh, btw, have you seen my site?

/DCLXVI

Confuzed

01-30-2003, 05:49 AM

That is a perculiar coincident, I was at your "site" yesterday confuzed

My site (confuzed.org.uk), or my friend's site (photoalbum.org.uk)?

There isn't really much to see on my site at the moment, I really must find the time to fill in the content!

Oh, btw, have you seen my site?

Indeed, I spent some time looking around your photos yesterday. It was one of your photos, with the proline tyres, that inspired me to get on and buy some better tyres myself! Hopefully they will be delivered in time to try them this weekend ;-)

DCLXVI

01-30-2003, 09:09 AM

My site (confuzed.org.uk), or my friend's site (photoalbum.org.uk)?

Eh, the photoalbum one...

Indeed, I spent some time looking around your photos yesterday. It was one of your photos, with the proline tyres, that inspired me to get on and buy some better tyres myself! Hopefully they will be delivered in time to try them this weekend ;-)

Don't forget to get a white pencil and fill in the text on the tires...
The Trac-Ta-Gator's are sooo good it's unbelivable, I ran the car at the same place where the Fore! video was shot and I had so much rear traction that I couldn't spin the rear end at all...the car acually understeered because of the low traction in the front....

/DCLXVI

Confuzed

01-30-2003, 09:16 AM

The Trac-Ta-Gator's are sooo good it's unbelivable, I ran the car at the same place where the Fore! video was shot and I had so much rear traction that I couldn't spin the rear end at all...the car acually understeered because of the low traction in the front...

Sounds excellent! Can't wait to try the Dirt Paws!

Actually my mate, the guy that runs photoalbum.org.uk, phoned up just now. He's running down to our local store to look at pipes and wandered if he should pick one up for me. "Of course!" I reply, so hopefully we'll have nice new tuned pipes later today :D

Confuzed

01-30-2003, 11:14 AM

Hi All,

We got the new pipes, and an OS No. 8 plug. Here's a pic with the new pipe, a CEN part, fitted:

http://www.confuzed.org.uk/photos/DT-10/IMG_0003.JPG

khemical

01-30-2003, 12:22 PM

Hi everyone,

I'm Confuzed's mate with the DT-10. Bit of a coincidence but we both stumbled across this thread over the last day or so!

As Confuzed has already mentioned we're in the middle of getting some bits and pieces for our trucks. Just picked up a new exhaust so I'll hopefully get to try that out tomorrow or at some point over the weekend. Also picked up an O.S. no.8 to replace the quickfire plug I lost during a run last weekend, damn thing just popped out!

Going to wait and see how the "Dirt Paws" are on Confuzed's truck but I suspect I'll be putting in an order for a pair of them or maybe the "Trac-Ta-Gators" fairly soon. Probably get some new tyres for the front too but haven't made any decisons on what to go for. Unfortunately our local hobby store only carries stock DT-10 tyres/wheels but I told them that I was after pro-lines and they said they'd see if their suppliers can get them in. If not I'll just order them online.

I'll make sure I get some up to date pics up once I've got some of the new bits in place, most of the stuff on http://photoalbum.org.uk/ is pretty old now.

Oh yeah, almost forgot to mention that my truck is the red one in the pics and the one with the yellow beetle shell is my other mate's DT-10 although we all have that shell so not all the beetle pics will be his (just to confuse you all!). ;)

Anyways, nice to see so many DT-10 owners here to share experiences with, see ya!

Khemical

DCLXVI

01-30-2003, 01:18 PM

Great with so many new, eh, keyboards?, well any way...

The Dirt-Hawgs sould do nice but I think that for really slippery (loose) surfaces the Trac-Ta-Gator are hard to beat...I have orderd another pair that I will use as front tires since I can have so much more traction with them than the std. front wheels...
I have also ordered a pair of Masher 2000 from Pro-Line as I have noticed that the "tractor" pattern are a really good all-round pattern...

I have also picked up a fuel filter and a new exahust coupling...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

01-30-2003, 01:22 PM

Oh, and btw, how do you guys like my site? I have had little fedback, I'd like to know if anyone besides me like it...

/DCLXVI

khemical

01-30-2003, 02:45 PM

DCLXVI

Yeah, I like your site, any site that covers the DT-10 is good in my opinion! ;)

I found the photos section kinda hard to navigate + the pics are too high a resolution to show in full on my display. You might want to give Gallery (http://gallery.menalto.com/index.php) a try, that's what I use on my site and it's by far the best web based photo album I've seen. It requires Apache and PHP but I notice you're using them both already so that won't be a problem. It can take a lil work to get it setup the way you want it but it's very flexible.

OK, enough of that, back to the trucks........

Fitted the new CEN pipe to mine now as can be seen in the following pics......

http://photoalbum.org.uk/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=tt_dt10&id=aar

http://photoalbum.org.uk/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=tt_dt10&id=aas

DCLXVI

01-30-2003, 03:25 PM

Ok, mabey I'll redesign the photo section during the weekend...

Does the CEN pipe work good?

Have you gone through alot of body posts?

How did you notice that I run Apache? The link?

Sorry for the shallowness of this reply but I am in my bed wrinting on my cordless keyboard...and I have some troubke seeing the screen... :)

/DCLXVI

EDIT - forgot to tell you...the front of the body is supposed to sit in front of the bumper... ;)

Confuzed

01-30-2003, 03:32 PM

How did you notice that I run Apache? The link?

I don't know if this is what Khemical did, but if you ever want to know what a site is running just check out Netcraft (http://www.netcraft.com).

Confuzed

01-30-2003, 03:53 PM

Oh, and btw, how do you guys like my site? I have had little fedback, I'd like to know if anyone besides me like it...

The site is pretty good, though a bit slow. What line are you hosting it on? Do you get much traffic?

The only suggestion I have is perhaps adding a section outlining the mods you've made - how you did them and what the pros and cons are.

Cheers,
Confuzed

khemical

01-30-2003, 04:07 PM

Does the CEN pipe work good?
Haven't had a chance to try it out yet, will definitely be giving it a run over the next couple of days though so I'll report back.

Have you gone through alot of body posts?
Nope, still on the originals.

How did you notice that I run Apache? The link?
As Confuzed has already said, I used Netcraft, very useful site!

forgot to tell you...the front of the body is supposed to sit in front of the bumper...
Yeah, I figured that out a while after I switched to using the truck shell (the beetle shell is supposed to sit behind) but I think it makes more sense to have it behind the bumper. It doesn't really fit that well either way but at least with it behind the bumper it's less likely to crack in a head on collision with a hard stationary object such as a wall. ;)

DCLXVI

01-31-2003, 04:05 AM

Originally posted by Confuzed
The site is pretty good, though a bit slow. What line are you hosting it on? Do you get much traffic?

The only suggestion I have is perhaps adding a section outlining the mods you've made - how you did them and what the pros and cons are.

Cheers,
Confuzed

I'll look in to that suggestion this weekend...
I'll probably link to that section from the car's info page...

Also, I'm in the middle of writing a small review about the DT-10 and mabey the PTA2...but I'll need some more experience from other Stadium Trucks to finnish it off...

I host my site myselfe...am running it in Seden on a 10 Mbit connection...I have been running some other applications on it though, but I will minimise those, if I can only remember to shut them off...

/DCLXVI

Confuzed

01-31-2003, 07:13 AM

I host my site myselfe...am running it in Seden on a 10 Mbit connection...I have been running some other applications on it

You have a 10Mbit connection to your home!? Is that common in Sweden? :eek:

We're pretty lucky to have our 512Kbit ADSL connections, 10Mbit just isn't available for home service.

See ya',
Confuzed

DCLXVI

01-31-2003, 07:38 AM

10 Mbit is only available in apartments...it's a fiber optical network that is quite well extended through the country, some of the people that have BredBandsBolaget (that is the name of the company suppying the connection, it means TheBroadBandCompany...) have been upgraded to 100Mbit, (not me though)...there are also another supplier that are offering 10 Mbit here, Tele2, then you get fiber to your house...it's available to almost everyone, but it costs about 1500 USD to get connected, my connection costs about 70 USD to open the account and 30 USD per month...

/DCLXVI

I also have 2,5 Mbit ADSL as a redundant connection...

khemical

01-31-2003, 08:45 AM

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Have you gone through alot of body posts?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nope, still on the originals.

Woops, looks like I spoke too soon, guess who has just snapped both rear body posts! :eek:

Odd that I run it for 5 months and go through gallons of fuel without breaking a single one and then just after you bring body posts up I go and break a pair, I think you jinxed my truck, lol! :p

Truck was going from a rough asphalt track on to slightly raised grass at about half throttle (something I've done many times before) and the nose dug in resulting in a fairly impressive 2.5 turn flip + the broken body posts. Perhaps the truck is quicker with the new pipe than I thought! Looks like I'll be running with the beetle shell again until I can be bothered to pick up some new ones since the beetle shell uses different mounts which are still intact.

The new pipe sounds sweet, much better than the half melted stock pipe and the truck seemed to be going very well. Top speed was good as was acceleration once it had warmed up, all in all I'm very happy with the new pipe, especially since I stuck the needle at 2 3/4 turns out and left it there without any tweaking. It was running a lil rich so I'll try some adjustments over the weekend.

Had a lil trouble with the brake locking after the flip but it seems ok again now, have to keep an eye on that when I run it next.

Khemical

DCLXVI

01-31-2003, 08:53 AM

Woops, looks like I spoke too soon, guess who has just snapped both rear body posts!

I have snapped so many body posts that it's just not funny, that is why I came up with the solution I posted earlier...I have acually made a revision for that mod, using a wider pipe I can mount the body lower, I can post a revised scheme for that later...

/DCLXVI

khemical

01-31-2003, 08:56 AM

I can post a revised scheme for that later...

Yeah, please do, I'd be interested in taking a look at that.

Cheers,

Khemical

DCLXVI

01-31-2003, 12:04 PM

I made the new pic...

I belive that the fist mod is a bit more useful for things like refuelling and starting as it makes it possible to swing the body like if it were on hinges...this is possible with the new solution aswell but the tubing I were using were quite a bit less flexible...
The biggest benefit with the new version is that it is more rigid and that the body can rest lower...
I haven't had a chance to field test this construction yet but I have crashed hard with the old one and the worst thing that can happen is that you can snap the fuel line and lose the zip-tie...
It is possible however to crash so bad (I have done this) that the lower part of the post CAN snap also (my upper diff bulkhead broke to, so it was quite a severe crash), but it is NOT likely...
As I have not made any field tests I cannot say for sure if the new design requires zip-ties or not but I think that it does...

/DCLXVI

Confuzed

01-31-2003, 12:52 PM

Just got home from work and opened up the package from Modelsport and....

No tyres! :confused:

Apparently they're on back order. Harsh. I was looking forward to fitting them this weekend and giving them a run!

Still, gotta give the truck a run with the new pipe and plug.

Oh yeah - the new fuel line I bought - its pink! LOL! :D

Khemical - I think our third driver might be interested in the fuel pipe for the pimp-mobil ;)

See ya' laters,
Confuzed

khemical

01-31-2003, 03:07 PM

Thanks for the pic DCLXVI. Shortly after I posted earlier I noticed that the beetle body mounts are the same as the stadium truck ones only they have a longer vertical piece (the bit with the holes in for the clips) and they are screwed on the other way around to allow for different placement of the holes in the shell.

I might try out the mod on a set of those as I have some spares so I can afford to play around with it without making another trip to the shop. Probably try the second mod since I don't need to make use of it for refueling/starting, the "cut a huge great hole in the roof" mod has that one covered! ;)

Khemical - I think our third driver might be interested in the fuel pipe for the pimp-mobil
LOL, don't get him started again!

See ya,
Khemical

DCLXVI

02-02-2003, 04:35 PM

As some of you might have noticed my page is off-line at the moment. I have taken some time this weekend to upgrade the hardware...but as always everything didn't go very well...One of the two network cards do not work...I'll look more into it tomorrow when I come home from work...probably just a driver issue...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

02-04-2003, 10:12 AM

Fixed the error, I just had to move one of the networks card to another slot, witch was my second guess (really!)...

...Well I'll be darned, I was just going to post this message and tell you guys that I had some issues with the adress...but I decided to check one last time...now it is working as it sould... :D

I'm currently waiting on some spares...but hopefully I will have them in time for the weekend, then I will displace alot of snow... :)
I will have to remember to either rebuild my front shock with 30w oil or change spring on them...hmmm...I think that I will tick to just changing springs...much easier...

Am I talking to myselfe....?

/DCLXVI

Confuzed

02-04-2003, 05:12 PM

Am I talking to myselfe....?

Well, I'm still reading the thread and I expect Khemical is too. Actually, its about time we posted after the weekend...

We had a pretty good weekend with our trucks. Saturday started off with the usual performance from my truck - the drive cups slipping after a few minutes of running. I picked up new diff gears (the small internal gears) because the flat edge on the shaft exiting the left (from the rear) of the diff was getting rounded. We ran again Sunday and the problem seems to be fixed.

What else...?

The new tuned pipe is excellent. The sound is better and there's loads more power. I'm also really pleased with the OS No 8 plug.

Oh yeah, I managed to break the rear shell mounts. Typical. We go all this time without breaking 'em, join this thread, then Khemical breaks his, and now I broke mine! :rolleyes:

Eventually something had to give - I think the brake locked up. Anyway, the result is my main gear got eaten so today I had to replace that. I also cleaned out the clutch bell and the carb. Finally I've spent some time rubbing down the edges in/around the exhaust manifold and polished it up a bit. :cool:

Laters,
Confuzed

DCLXVI

02-05-2003, 12:15 AM

Well, I'm still reading the thread and I expect Khemical is too. Actually, its about time we posted after the weekend...

Good, I was starting to feel lonely... ;)

We had a pretty good weekend with our trucks. Saturday started off with the usual performance from my truck - the drive cups slipping after a few minutes of running. I picked up new diff gears (the small internal gears) because the flat edge on the shaft exiting the left (from the rear) of the diff was getting rounded. We ran again Sunday and the problem seems to be fixed.

Augh, I haven't even started mine since long before christmas! :(

Oh yeah, I managed to break the rear shell mounts. Typical. We go all this time without breaking 'em, join this thread, then Khemical breaks his, and now I broke mine!

I dont even understad how you've managed NOT to break the body posts... :confused:

/DCLXVI

khemical

02-05-2003, 08:55 AM

ell, I'm still reading the thread and I expect Khemical is too.

Certainly am, just haven't got around to posting since the weekend.

As Confuzed has already said, we had a pretty good couple of runs over the weekend with relatively few problems!

I had to replace one of my rear wheels as it finally gave way during Saturday's run. It's been getting chewed up for a few months now from when I didn't tighten it enough after a cleaning operation.

The age old drive cup problem returned to my truck on Sunday and I could only run for a few minutes before they'd start to slip and I'd need to re-tighten them. The head of the lil grub screw had become so mashed that I couldn't tighten it correctly so I've now got some new ones.

While the car was running it was going extremely well, between the new plug and the the new pipe the car is running the best it ever has and is very quick. A couple of guys with 1/8 buggies (Kyosho Inferno + Ho-Bao Hyper 7) came over to see what we were running and my truck was significantly quicker than them so I was pretty happy with that. One of them ended up crashing head on into a wooden post, it didn't drive away from that one!

Waiting on new tyres + air filter now along with Confuzed, hopefully get them in the next week or two.

See ya,

Khemical

DCLXVI

02-19-2003, 01:53 PM

I set out to run my DT-10 some last weekend but it wouldn't start...I have orderd some new parts I think will be required but I will have to see...
Picked up some new tires also and some new front tires (tried and used Trac-Ta-Gators as fronts also)
The new rears I picked up was a pair of Pro-Line Masher 2000 since I know that the cheveron patter are a superior thread pattern for all-round terrain...

What I didn't count on though was their size...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/small/IMG_061.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/small/IMG_060.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/small/IMG_062.jpg

/DCLXVI

Confuzed

02-19-2003, 06:26 PM

Originally posted by DCLXVI

What I didn't count on though was their size...

Wow, those tyres are fat!!

I just put the Proline Dirt Paws on my truck tonight. Actually, they still need gluing - I'll do that tomorrow night and then hopefully we'll take them out on Friday. I haven't grabbed a photo yet, but I will tomorrow if I remember.

I've also fitted a new air filter.

Later,
Confuzed

khemical

02-20-2003, 11:19 AM

Spent a lil time this afternoon sorting my truck out. Fixed my front right suspension which I broke whilst running last saturday and gave it a general check over. I noticed that one of my drive cups is coming lose again (but not the one that I usually have problems with) so I I tightened it up and threadlocked the grub screw so hopefully that'll hold now. Also fitted my new Dirt Paws to the rear, looking forward to giving them a try!

Pics of the Dirt Paws here:

http://photoalbum.org.uk/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=tt_dt10&id=aau

and here:

http://photoalbum.org.uk/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=tt_dt10&id=aat

Sorry the pics aren't too clear, I had better ones but my digital camera decided to lose them! :eek:

Khemical

DCLXVI

02-20-2003, 12:25 PM

Those tires looks good...
That pipe looks really good...to bad my LHS said "What is CDN?" when I asked for a CEN pipe... :rolleyes:
I'll just have to pay for a Kyosho, wonder if they have a pipe that is about the same as the CEN you installed... :confused:

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

03-16-2003, 02:34 PM

Are you guys still here?

Anyway, I ran my truck both Sunday and Saturday...funny thing is that on Saturday the drivecups started to come loose (thread.locked and all), something that has never happend to me before... :confused:
Seems that some of the trouble you guys have had are now happening to me and vice versa... ;)
Also, my TracTaGator tires proved to be to good, so I flipped trying to corner full at about 3/4 throttle :( that broke the modded bodyposts and I decided to go bacl to the first mod I made...I tink that I use a tubing that were not flexible enough...
I also managed to tear the nut that holds the steering linkage onto the L shape that makes up the servo-saver...

I've modified my original pipe (removed the internal baffle) and the car goes like there is no tomorrow, only problem is that it keeps dying after a few minutes... :( I'll have to figure out if that is because of the baffle removal...

As I were saying before, the TracTaGator tires (with I now run on all four tires) are probably one of the best tires for wet grass/compact mud in existance...
The new tires I bought I haven tested that much yet but they seems to be quite poor concidering the fact that on ½ throttle the look alot like LP records ;)

/DCLXVI

khemical

03-17-2003, 11:18 AM

Are you guys still here?

Yep, just haven't had a chance to take the truck out for a while so haven't posted anything here.

I did run it through a few tanks of fuel yesterday and again this afternoon though, couldn't resist the fantastic weather we're having at the moment! ;)

It was running really badly yesterday, stalling a lot and very difficult to restart. I put it down to the sudden change in weather (was fairly cold when I last ran it) and set about adjusting the fuel/air mixture to suit but didn't get very far.

Same trouble again today but then I noticed that the needle valve had come loose at the base so my adjustments to the mix weren't accurate because fuel was able to leak out around the seal at the bottom. I tightened it back up, turned the needle all the way in and then back out to around 2 3/4 turns and things were running much better, still stalled too easily but things weren't too far off of being right.

I left it at that and came home as my starter was going flat making it difficult to start the truck even if I did have it setup right! The truck was absolutely flying on the final run though, seemed even quicker than the last time I ran it but it might be that I've forgotten just how quiclk these things are in the break from running. Amazingly I didn't break anything over the last couple of days, it's a long time since I've run that much fuel through and not had some kinda problem. I don't think the cold weather does these things any favours, plastic doesn't half get brittle when it's cold!

DCLXVI

04-01-2003, 09:53 AM

Argh!!! Two posts lost!!!...one from me and one from pistole!!!

/DCLXVI

pistole

04-01-2003, 08:42 PM

I was off doing something else , MIA for a while there .....

As for my DT10 , I have just cleaned here up and ran her in the park the other day ...... she is going well and I really enjoyed myself.

Thanks , glad to see that you guys are still here.

Will post more later.

Bye.

DCLXVI

04-02-2003, 10:02 AM

Well, as I said before, my DT-10 is down for repair...the diff bulkhead has broken (for the second time) and my throttle servo are starting to act up... :(

But hopefully I will drive some this weekend... :)

As also said before, it's nice to have you back Pistole, I was starting to miss you ;) :P

/DCLXVI

pistole

04-05-2003, 12:12 AM

Well , I have now resorted to using Automotive Grease in place of the Shock Oil in the DT10.

The result is a very very nice handling machine !!! No more chattering suspension ...... good on road manners , does not lean like a boat into the turns.

A bit messy , the Grease , but well worth the trouble....

She is very very fast now. Unfortunately , I just broke the fuel tank ..... the mounting leg broke and it lost its fuel quick. I will try to patch it up ......

Bye.

DCLXVI

04-07-2003, 06:02 AM

Fixed the car up friday but did not do any running this weekend (ran my PTA2 some though) due to the weather (some light snow and 999999999999999999,991 m/s winds)... :(

I'll probably have to change my main gear, it seems as it have melted some of the teeth...

/DCLXVI

pistole

04-07-2003, 10:21 PM

I was able to patch the hole in the tank.

What I did was to put a small self-tapping screw into the hole covered in Super-Glue ( Cynoacrylate ). It sealed is up nicely and does not react with the fuel.

Bye.

mustangfreak

04-09-2003, 09:14 PM

Hi im new to this site and was wondering if anybody here can tell me where i can find a parts list and dealer in the U.S I had bought this car about 2 months ago from a friend of a friend and the guy had wrecked it and broke a few things and i got it really cheap. Now im not really sure that this is really a dt-10 but it is the only thing on the net that even looks like what i have thanks in advance

pistole

04-10-2003, 12:04 AM

Mustang,

Post a pic. We can help you confirm what you've got there.

bye.

pistole

04-14-2003, 07:33 AM

Crashed , broke my rear diff casing ........... augh.

DCLXVI

04-14-2003, 07:45 AM

I am on my third PD0254... :(
I have to order a main gear today...mine has melted (it would seem...)...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

04-20-2003, 01:12 PM

Car is going GREAT...I tweaked some old shocks I had laying around (my stock ones have broken, all six of them, exept one and a half ;) ) so I tried putting a different "foot" (the thing with the hole that holds the ball-joint) on one of the crap shocks I got from my cousin (the stock USA-1 shoks) and managed to get about five centimeters of ground clerance...quite nice...

Today I took the truck for some eh, rock climbing...not the easiest thing to do when you have RWD and the tires I have (I have to get some more tires that are more all-terrain)...I was supposed to be more of a show for my cousins USA-1 but he managed to loose the screws that holds the pull-starter, when he managed to replace them (quite some time later, after lunch) doing some field repair, the glow-igniter had run out (I was driving while he were repairing)...

DCLXVI

04-20-2003, 03:38 PM

Some more pics...

Thats a 3,5" HDD...

DCLXVI

04-20-2003, 03:45 PM

Out in the wilderness...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_114.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_116.jpg

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

04-20-2003, 03:54 PM

Oh, BTW, I have many more pics on my WWW below... :)

/DCLXVI

pistole

04-20-2003, 10:39 PM

Very very nice ............. glad you're having fun.

As for my broken diff casing , I super-glued it back together ..... and its holding up so far ...........

Will report on the fate of my diff .......

Bye , and great to hear from ya !

Nyss

04-21-2003, 02:08 AM

Hi All,
I new to R/C so forgive me if i use the wrong terminology.

Me and a mate decided to have a go at R/C, being Easter weekend and all, so we both bought a DT10 each ( only thing the model shop had two of). Armed with our new toys we set off home to set them up, with a challenge that we would meet again later and kick our respective butts.

A few hour later and i was shooting around the local supermarket's car park, like a bat out of hell :)

Untill i clipped the kurb and after a few airbourne spins the car landed upside down in the garden of a adjoining property.

Checking for damage, i noted a broken shocker. Determined to keep my promise of a race with my mate (who by the way was, carefully running his in, as per the instructions) I glued the shocker back together with expoxy resin.

This lasted about .05 seconds so i resorted taking off a rear shocker and replacing both rear shocks with 10mm timber dowls.

Great I thought, ready to race again.

Meeting my mate up the field, 2 pulls of the cord and hes off.

Me, im tugging away and all my car can manage is the odd splut. I then noticed that throttle was not operating, bent from the crash, a few tweaks with a pair of pliers and im off as well (took about 20 mins though).

Both cars lined up ready to go....... a few revs to make the engines scream ........ my mates exhust falls off :(.

So that was it, great fun, and we are off to have another go later today. As its another Bank Holiday here in the UK, most shops are closed, so my car will have to remain repaired with timber and tape. Oh forgot to mention the bit when my engine moved and stipped the teeth off the drive cog, still seems to work though.

Any tips please, i could use them.

John

pistole

04-21-2003, 02:34 AM

Hi , JOHN.

I have not read such an exciting post in a long time. It was
pretty gripping , such that I could not wait to read the
outcome of your adventures with the DT10s.

As for your DT10 , my advice would be :-

(a) break it in properly , please. The manual is there for a reason.

(b) gluing back high stress items like the shocks usually does not work very well. You might as well look for replacement aluminium ones, the stock plastic shocks are , shall we say , not up to the job.

(c) at the very least , LOCKTITE (thread locking compound) the 4 screws holding the engine to the engine mount , AND the 4 screws holding the engine mount to the chassis. You can use Locktite Blue. There is a tendency for these screws to loosen and if it happens , the clutch bell on the engine will chew up the main-plastic-spur-gear ( the big black plastic gear at the front of the gearbox which engages the engine's clutch bell).

EXHAUST
________

As for your mate's DT , the exhaust falling off ......... make sure he (and you as well) also LOCKTITE the two long screws holding the exhaust manifold to the engine itself.

Thereafter , use additional zipties to secure the exhaust pipe to the manifold (they are joined vide the silicone hose).

Have fun with the car. She's a rear cracker.

Bye and good luck.

DCLXVI

04-21-2003, 09:21 AM

I'd like to say that the stock shocks are good performers but are quite fragile at the top...

I have six of them, five are broken at the top mounting hole....

/DCLXVI

Nyss

04-22-2003, 12:57 PM

Hi again Guys (and Girls of course),

Just to give you an update on the latest antics,

Next day...........Back up the field, mates exhust screwed tightly back on, all screws, nuts ect checked and tightened (many were loose though), first pull and my mate is running, me im tugging and adjusting mix scew until i fire, then whoosh were both off!

Mine seems to need a lot richer mix than my mates to run smoothly, it also cuts out if i do sharp circles for any period of time, i think maybe the fuel is lacking pressure, again advice from you experts would be good.

Back to the race, great fun, both going like rockets, then ........
bash! we clip cars, my luck, mine ends up in the air before returning to earth, upside down.

The result, both plastic arms that hold the body on are broken.
Though as luck would have it, my mate had suffered the same damage :) he just didnt notice until it return.

Still good fun, we carried on until a Park Ranger came and told us we could'nt use motorised R/C on the field :(

Ok, we thought, lets try tarmac.

Blimey, I thought they were fast before, on open tarmac they really do move, until...... yep again, we cliped cars and again mine came of worse, hitting a wall and breaking another shock.

Luckily i had one on me from the rear, where i replaced both with timber. So off we went again till it hunger took over and we called it a day.

Today, I bought two new shocks, could only get plastic ones though. So as a former welder, ive decided to make a roll cage, ill post some pics when done. Has any one else made a guard to protect the shocks?

I'll keep you updated if your interested.

John

DCLXVI

04-22-2003, 02:19 PM

Nice to have another "regular" at this thread...

I have not tried to build any special protection for my car but since I'm running another body (Kyosho Chevy Silverado from a USA-1 kit) I have modified my mount quite a bit...I have but the front posts in the rear and added a little bit from a rear post at the accual front post to raise the body a bit...
But the real only solution to the body posts are to make some kind of adjustments to them ore make new ones out of metal or like wise (care sould be used not to make them out of a material that is not flexible enough, otherwise other parts of the car may break, namely the shock tower and the diff casing)...

Regarding your set-up trouble, the only advice I can offer are to change the glow-plug...I have no idea witch one you sould get...nice advice huh? :(

You could "reroute" you fuel line, mine goes under the throttle servo and in-front of the fly-wheel and are loosely zip-tied to the mainfold (to stop if from getting caught by the fly wheel). I had one incident before I zip-tied the line where the line apparently went between the gears (main and spur) because I had to remove one end of it to put it back where I had put it some hours earlier...no noticable damage on the line but thats scary stuff..

I'll keep you updated if your interested.

But of course we are interested, if you can take some pics and/or videos that would be higly entertainingn :cool:

ukguy

04-25-2003, 07:52 PM

Hi all:

I am totally new here, just got me a dt-10, great fun truck and all:)
I was wondering if anyone here knows of a UK supplier of bits for this truck, especially bearings and 'proper' shocks, as my local shops do not stock them.

thanks
kev

DCLXVI

04-26-2003, 12:01 PM

There are no real need to get TTR bearings and shocks...just get some kyosho or other brand, as long as they fit...

pistole

04-27-2003, 05:24 AM

I am not even from UK but you would need to contact :-

Amerang Ltd, Lancing Business Park, Commerce Way, Lancing, West Sussex, BN15 8TA

Tel. 01903 765496 Fax. 01903 765178

for all your Thunder Tiger stuff.

Hope you have fun. The DT is great fun !

housetown

04-27-2003, 09:45 AM

hi i`m new in this forum but i have 2 qestions..
nr1....my car is 2 days old and the cluch has melted...how can this hapend...i have runed for ca 3 tanks...

nr2...my car is to days old and my motor is runing and the main gear is running but the car is not running....can somebody help me??

DCLXVI

04-27-2003, 10:22 AM

housetown: If you profile is correct we are almost neighbours... :D

Q2: I could guess that the scres that holds the out-drive cups at the diff have come loose... unscrew the lower rear suspension arm so you can remove the dog bone, then try and remove the out-drive cup, if you can, the screw has loosend. If you can't it is probably the other side that has come loose...test that one...
Remember when tightening that the screw are supposed to go against the flat part of the diff shaft...
If you want to discuss this problem or the DT-10 (or R/C in general) in Swedish you are welcome to my board...

Q1: The only possibility I can think of are that you have the gears (main and cluch) improperly shimed...probably the engine mounting screws has shaken loose when running and the gears has come to close together witch will make the cluch slip constantly due to the increased friction...
The gears sould be shimed using a paper between the gears and pressing them together, tighten the mounting screws and then remove the paper...

Oh, and it is extremly recomended to lock-tite every screw on the car...otherwise theese things happen...

/DCLXVI

housetown

04-27-2003, 10:52 AM

hei kan du si det på svensk eller...foresten tusen takk for svaret

DCLXVI

04-27-2003, 11:13 AM

Check your PM-inbox...

/DCLXVI

pistole

04-30-2003, 08:35 PM

I did try gluing back the diff casing , no luck , it broke again whilst I was running the DT and I lost a drive shaft in the process....

This car is costing me more in maintenance than what I had paid for her new !

Better luck next time .. Bye.

dicko

05-01-2003, 12:41 AM

the mods i have made to the dt-10

new stearing servo, JR metag geared 5kg loading
new tuned pipe, Eureka Pro
upgraded clutch (1st didn't even last running in)
upgraded drive gear to diff (the gear that the diff is screwed to)
Locktite everything, and i mean everything.
replaced zip ties on pipe to hose clamps, when they get oily they won't let go.

still on original tyres but only just.
looking at new shocks but i can't find ones with small enough ball joints to fit the dt-10, any part numbers on shocks that fit would be appreciated, Ali only though, i am sick of plastic. i have only changed to 30w oil so far as i run mine almost entirely on a track. roads are to dangerous with curbs that don't get out of the way (stubborn aren't they haha).

i also run a nitro 1/10 subaru, an old tamiya frog (elec) and an elec 1/10 subaru. electric is good indoors, especially on polished floors, slides a plenty.

cheers

dicko

05-01-2003, 02:10 AM

Nyss, my DT also needs more fuel through the carby. mine is set at about 4.5 turns. took me ages to sort out my tuning & i went through 3 glo plugs in the process. this was the hardest engine i have tuned yet. i even took it back to the shop & it took them 3 attempts before they got it close enough for me to sort out the rest. sometimes the manual works, sometimes it don't. i think i got a lemon, i had heaps of trouble with certain parts (clutch, diff gear etc) but once you sort them all out they are a ball of fun. wait till you get it on an rc track designed for off roaders. YEAH BABY. they jump really well when you get the shocks sorted out. i can't wait for some free time. i am flat out at work with no after hours daylight left now (winter coming) and booked week ends. will be at least 2 weeks before i get a chance. so she will be clean and raring to go by then.

DCLXVI

05-01-2003, 04:07 PM

Glad to hear that you have sorted all the initial problems out...

I managen to break the "kick-plate" (AD2355) yesterday running over a large rock... :rolleyes:
Fixed it with zip-ties (holds it pretty well but I really hope that my LHS has that part in stock (going there tomorrow)...

Pistole: It's rarely any use in glueing anything that breaks because of the stress the parts are exposed to, but I guess that you already knew that ;)

Zip-Ties on the other hand :D

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-01-2003, 06:03 PM

i spoke to a few model fliers about the baffles. they are there to give compression back to the piston to help itin its downward stroke. this gives the engine more power & torque. you can get higher revs without the baffle but you are putting more stress on the internal parts of your engine. i remember geting the same story from a muffler place when i got a new exhaust on my V8 ute.

another tip. if you are sick of dirty oilly rear wheels & car parts, this is what to do. put a piece of axhaust tube about 5cm long (2 inches) on the pipe from the muffler. this should be the same internal diameter as the exhaust pipe. it jets the oil out away from your car and makes it easy to stop the engine. all you need to do is pinch this pipe and the engine stops. no lean running involved. i used a bit of left over exhaust pipe from my tamiya subaru 1/10th but you should be able to get it from any LHS. as long as it jets out past the rear wheel you will have a clean car as long as you don't spill fuel on it. :cool:

cheers & fast runnings.

dicko

05-02-2003, 01:38 AM

has anyone ever put their bicycle lights on their car & taken it for a night run? what a blast. all you need is a large area (preferably grass as it is more forgiving in those moments of error) and different colour lights so that you know which way your car is facing after a spin. :D

i guarentee its fun. try it out, just don't do it too late because not everyone loves the sound and smell of a nitro engine at WOT late at night ;)

And remember, distances are harder to judge in the dark, so be carefull :eek:

cheers
Dicko.

pistole

05-02-2003, 03:36 AM

Hi.

You're right about the exhaust. The baffle helps the engine lower down in its power band ( ie, the torque department ).

Whereas a free-flow exhaust system will help the motor's top-end , ie , the upper reaches of its rev range.

Even so , what I have stated above is a very simplified explanation. Exhaust technology borders on the black-arts , kind of like suspension tuning. There is the need to "tune" the pipe (thats why its know as a tuned pipe exhaust). This tuning refers to the matching of the engine's exhaust pulses to be in tune with the +ve and -ve pulses from the muffler [the (in)famous 'back-pressure' event].

If this tuning is done correctly , then scavenging (a form of extraction) of the exhaust gases happens and thats when you hit your sweet spot on the power band.

To cut the long story short , the silicone joint between the muffler and the manifold (aka Header) results in the length between the manifold and the start of the muffler to be adjustable.

The longer it is , the more torque the engine has , but loses a bit of top end. The shorter it is , more top end , less low end torque. It just depends on the type of running that you are doing. If its alot of straight line work , the by all means , go for the free flow system. If you need to do hill climbing , for instance , then you need a torquey engine.

From my experience with the DT10 , removal of the Baffles in the Muffler allowed the engine to reach a higher RPM within a shorter period of time. This was when I was using the car for , basically, drag racing with my buddy's car, ie , long 300-400 meters straight of tarmac. This kind of racing requires all the top-end that the little motor can muster.

Have fun and be safe.

Bye.

pistole

05-04-2003, 12:34 AM

Bought new diff casing - installed it - ran it - now the gears are gone - no drive at all ...

I am real tired.

Bye.

DCLXVI

05-04-2003, 06:50 AM

I'm kind of agree with pistole here, exahust design/efficency are really "black-magic"...

I were out almost all friday running the car and shooting some video fotage that I'm cuttently are editing (one film are ready and are found on my page, WWW below)...the car was running quite good, I didn't shim the main gear and the spurgear properly so at the end of the day my main gear was completly round...melted!
Also, my dampning set-up was a bit hard for the first place where we ran...
I put a temorary page up with still from the new video material...
(http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/html/temp.htm)

Dissassebly of the car showed that the cluch has melted somewhat and that the diff cogs are going flat :(

I have also made up my mind to get an EK-4 as soon as I can afford it... :)

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-04-2003, 06:00 PM

I had a spare 1/2 hour on the week end so I tuned the engine in for the Eureka Pro pipe. it took another 1/4 turn out on the mixture to richen it up a little. it is close to 5 turns out now! i think the tuned pipe has given me at least an extra 5-8kph on the top end speed. very pleased. a couple of my friends who fly model planes came around while i was doing this and were amazed at how fast the dt-10 goes. they have only seen the tamiya 1/10th nitro subaru go (which is slow in comparison) and are now thinking about a dt-10. wasn't hard to convince them. hopefully i will have a couple to race against on the track soon:D

cheers
Dicko.

pistole

05-05-2003, 04:01 AM

From what I have seen about TAMIYA cars , they're all flash and no go.

They do not even have a 1/10 on road car worth mentioning. Nor any 1/8 on road OR off roaders of any repute whatsoever.

I'll stick with my DT/EK/EB here !!

Bye.

pistole

05-05-2003, 05:49 AM

Well , I have fixed my g/box.

The (new) pinion gear broke a tooth (again).

I think that this new EVO engine is too hot for the g/box to handle. Thank god I was not able to get a NovaRossi (they're all rear exhaust !) , if not , I think the tyres would fly off the rims !!

Well , I am gonna run those gears in first before I rip the throttle open on that DT10. Will report on its progress.

Thanks and bye.

DCLXVI

05-05-2003, 06:07 AM

Pistole: Do you mean the diff gear or the spur gear? I have started to strip spurs on a regular basis...my last one melted completly...not one singel cog left! :(
Now I'm thinking about changing the pinion gear since mine are starting to reach a state of pretty bad shape...

Tamiya makes some really nice cars...IIRC they won the IFMAR last year with their 1:10 electric...they have never been big on nitro though...

*EDIT*
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=123789
*EDIT*

1:8, the terra crusher seems to be a quite nice truck, but quite under-motorized...also, in the electric field Tamiya has made some of the best MT's ever created...the ColdBuster and the TXT-1...

/DCLXVI

pistole

05-05-2003, 06:29 AM

electric ......

dicko

05-05-2003, 06:23 PM

i have 2 tamiya electric which i run very rarely (ie when it is raining outside & i am bored) and the Tamiya nitro which is more of a spare car that only gets a run when the dt is out of comission. all of them are snails in comparison to the dt-10. but the 4wd nitro is a bit of fun on the street as it is slow enough to be manouvered without catastrophic crashes, yet fast enough not to be boring.

the DT is still the pick of the bunch. no questions there.

i bought a failsafe yesterday, $30 aussie. all i had to do was plug it in, pull back on the reciever to full brake and push a button on the failsafe to set the correct servo position, dead easy. all i have to do now is hope it never needs to be used.

Cheers
Dicko.

DCLXVI

05-06-2003, 01:51 AM

I got a fail-safe to, apparently another model than yours...I had a screw on mine for setting the throttle-fail-position...

I were at my LHS the other day and ordered a cluch, spur gear and the diff-gears (and gasket) since mine is getting really bad...

Also, my pull-starter are in quite bad shape, I had to remove about 30-40 cm of cord that was worn...now I'm saving up for a starter-box.

/DCLXVI

pistole

05-06-2003, 05:14 AM

Hi DCL ......

The Starter Box will not work. The engine mount is too tall (in order to accomodate the pull start mechanism), so the starter box's rubber wheel will not make it to the flywheel. I have tried.... I know.

What you need to do is to convert to the plain engine backplate(non pull start) and then to change to the lower engine mount.

Bye.

DCLXVI

05-06-2003, 08:25 AM

What you need to do is to convert to the plain engine backplate(non pull start) and then to change to the lower engine mount.

Yes...I know...btw, do you have the part no. for the lower engine mount?

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-06-2003, 08:54 PM

the failsafe works, the batteries went flat last night & the failsafe kicked in, paid for itself allready. i checked the batteries before i ran it and they seemed ok. new batteries now so it should be good for a few more hours.

has anyone tried the tube off the pipe to jet the oil away from the car. it really works well. very easy to shut the car down as well. my rear wheel and suspension assembly stays clean now. try it out.

Cheers
Dicko.

sla

05-08-2003, 02:31 AM

I am new ti i/c cars - just bought a DT10 with Thunder Tiger Pro15 pullstart engine...
Any advice / hints / tips on running in a new engine. I have read the manual and I guess I just run it rich for 4/5 tank loads??

Cheers...

dicko

05-08-2003, 06:41 PM

follow the manual and you should be right. check ALL the screws after each tank as they have a tendancy to vibrate loose. I lost 3 engine mount screws during the running in process. locktite all the nuts if you can. if you have the time to read this thread from the beginning there are lots of tips all the way through.

Cheers & have fun with your dt-10.

Dicko:)

DCLXVI

05-14-2003, 10:01 AM

My truck are running great! If you check my homepage (under videos/sneak peaks) I uploaded some nice action shots yesterday...there are some action shots under videos/stills also...
Comments?

/DCLXVI

sla

05-15-2003, 12:05 PM

Hi,

Anybody know where I can obtain spares for my DT10 in the UK?

Web addresses would be great..

DCLXVI - what is the URL for your site??

Cheers

SLA

DCLXVI

05-15-2003, 12:53 PM

Serched the net, this is the only thing I could come up with...

http://www.fortmodelcarclub.plus.com/tips.htm
"Sussex Model Centre on (01903) 207525. If they do not have it in stock, then go across the road to Amerang (the U.K. importer)."

As for my site URL, it's http://dclxvi.no-ip.info
Or you can just click WWW below... :)

/DCLXVI

pistole

05-15-2003, 10:39 PM

Hi Hi !

Still here !!

DCLXVI

05-16-2003, 01:11 AM

Pistole : Have you had any problems at all with your EK-4? I'm thiunking of buying one...I'm thinking about the budget...$1500 is what had in mind for the first round...new shocks, 9 kg steering (thinking about digital, $10 more) servo, 4 kg throttle servo, 3000 mAH reciver batteries, 1/8 grave digger body, a nice radio...what do you think? It's an V2 of course...

/DCLXVI

pistole

05-16-2003, 07:22 AM

Hi DCL,

My EK4 is going fine. No problems at all.

You can check out my regular reports on its progress at the midmad.com forum.

Perhaps I can get the car cheaper for you here ......... let me know if you're really serious. I'll then put you in touch with my guys at the Store and you can take it from there.

Bye.

DCLXVI

05-16-2003, 09:02 AM

Thanks for the help Pistole, but I don't know about toll and tax...mabey if we could arrange it so that it ship without any cost printed or something...

Have you checked out the TrippleH eller MSJ option parts? I'm thinking about the whole MSJ range...

/DCLXVI

pistole

05-17-2003, 05:07 AM

Dear DCL....

I think that the Store guys can arrange something for you as far as a "special price" invoice is concerned.

Its just that you'll have to trust them enough to send over your hard earned money first before they will release the car. From my experience with them , they are absolutely trustworthy.

If you're really serious , email me personally ( you do still have my address don't you ? ) and I'll put you in touch.

Hope that I can help you out.

Bye.

pistole

05-17-2003, 05:09 AM

As for those HHH and MSJ parts , yes , I have seen them on the net but they're far - far too expensive to buy.

For example , for the price of the MSJ Head and Starter (converted from USD to my local currency) , I could buy , almost , a whole , NEW , EK4.

So , no logic there at all for me.

Let me know about your decision on the EK4 ........ I'll try my best to help.

Bye.

DCLXVI

05-17-2003, 07:37 AM

How much are the EK-4 in Malaisya? Here it's about $790 for just the car (ARR, w/o radio and servos)...in the US I have seen it for $450 (ARR)...

/DCLXVI

pistole

05-18-2003, 12:21 AM

Hi.

See here :-

http://www.midmad.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1654&page=1

I paid , about , USD375-00 for the car alone. You'll need to contact them directly to get the actual price now and also the cost of shipping.

Let me know.

Bye.

DCLXVI

05-18-2003, 11:41 AM

$375 :eek::eek::eek:

Could I have their adress please?

375 dollars are less than I paid for my DT-10!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (paid about $413)!!!!!!!!

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-19-2003, 07:31 PM

I paid 440 aussie, roughly 265 U.S for my DT10. took it out on the week end and had a ball. ran perfectly all day. lost a pin that holds the body an but that was all. i was surprised to see they don't supply spairs. guess i will pull one off one of my other cars. ran it against some guys with electric off roadwers. they are looking at nitro now. hehehe.

dicko

05-27-2003, 12:39 AM

It's getting wet down here now, winter is well & truly on the way. i was looking at getting some grippier tyres to run in the mud & on grass. i am undecided on the trac-ta-gator and the dirtpwas. has anyone compared the two types against each other. If so which is the better set? i was looking at putting the trac-ta-gator on the rear and the dirtpaws on the front. this is entirely based on an earlier post saying that the car oversteered with the trac-ta gator on front & rear, aswell as the fact that the dirtpaws looked less knobbly in the picture. so i figure the ditpaws may be better than the trac-ta-gator up front for stearing purposes. but this is all suposition.

any clues?

DCLXVI

05-27-2003, 10:42 AM

I tried running Trac-Ta-Gators in the rear and stock in fron but the steering dissapeard totally...

With Trac-Ta-Gators front and rear in grass and mud there aren't really any oversteering...just that the cars goes like on tarmac with slicks... 100% grip...

For grass, I'd recommend Trac-Ta-Gator 100% (x4)
For mud/sand, depends on the firmness...to firm, lot of wear, to loose, no grip (use sandpaws)...(I'm talking really LOOSE here)

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-27-2003, 05:43 PM

I run it on a firm dirt track, almost concrete in firmness except for the layer that has worn off which is like having a thin layer of sand over the track. so there isn't many tyre treads that will grip on that. but the track is built on the side of a large sporting oval which is great for running WOT when the sports aren't on.

I think i will get the trac-ta-gators and a new set of rims to mount them on so I can change tyres quickly depending if i run on the track or the oval.

cheers

Dicko

DCLXVI

05-28-2003, 12:27 AM

I think i will get the trac-ta-gators and a new set of rims to mount them on so I can change tyres quickly depending if i run on the track or the oval.

Sounds about right...However, I think that you sould change to trac-ta-gator in the front also if you're plannig on running in grass...espec. wet/damp grass...stock fronts will have no grip and rears won't loose the grip = no steering!

But getting spare rims for mounting the new tires on are what I'm doing...works well, mind the pin on the axels when changing tires...

/DCLXVI

DCLXVI

05-28-2003, 12:29 AM

Double post, sorry... :rolleyes:

dicko

05-28-2003, 08:25 PM

yeah, i was intending to get a whole set of trac-ta-gators and wheels. i got some prices and they aren't cheap. will have to wait till next pay(i only get paid once a month:mad: ) but it will be worth it.

i have a friend who works in a tool making place so i get some parts made to order, ie pins and the like at no cost (offcuts usually). they are looking at machining a gearbox housing and gears out of aluminium but it may take a while as they can only do it after hours. some of those guys are wizards on a cnc machine. they were also looking at making some rims but i don't know what happened with them, they may have been put in the "i'll do it later basket" & forgotten.

the tuned pipe is running really well. the tube that directs the exhaust out past the rear wheel really works well. my rear wheel is spottless after running about ten tanks of fuel, even in the dust. should have done that a long time ago.

cheers
Dicko

DCLXVI

05-29-2003, 01:41 AM

i only get paid once a month

Who doesn't? I get paid every 25th (arrives on the 24th thought)

Cnc:ing a diff case sounds like a really good idea...

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-29-2003, 02:00 AM

it was their idea, but they think it will be difficult to write the program. they want to give it a go, and i want to let them:D apparantly making aluminium gears is easy for them, and relatively inexpensive as they can use offcuts. once they have written the cnc program it will only take a matter of seconds to cut the housing, i hope they can work it out. they can even anodise stuff but i don't think i will go that far. polishing though, now that might look classy:p

I'll let you know if they ever sort it out.

Cheers
Dicko

DCLXVI

05-29-2003, 02:03 AM

Let me know if they want to sell a casing or a main gear... :)

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-29-2003, 02:18 AM

if they get the program to work i couldn't see a problem. i.ve seen the machine run. it would literally only take about 40 seconds per side for the casing. it is amazing how fast the machine is. it would be a waste to create the programme and only make one casing.

just finishing work now, one day till the week end. i can't wait. it's been a hectic week.:(

cheers
Dicko

DCLXVI

05-29-2003, 02:46 AM

Today is a holliday here (Christ went to heaven or something like that) then I have taken some vacation... :D

I'm home next week and start working again on the 10th... :)

/DCLXVI

dicko

05-29-2003, 05:48 PM

we have monday the 9th of june off for the queens birthday. its great, she lives on the other side of the world, and no one in Australia cares about her at all, but we still get a day off for her dirthday. i know what i will be doing on june 9 as long as it's not raining.

i'll try to catch up with the guys this week end about the cnc work, but they can be hard to pin down, especially when they take off on their motorbikes. so hope for bad weather, then they'll stay home.

cheers
Dicko.

pistole

05-30-2003, 05:19 AM

Did someone say HOLIDAY ........................

DCLXVI

05-30-2003, 06:42 AM

Originally posted by pistole
Did someone say HOLIDAY ........................

I think that I said vacation in the same breath to... :D

/DCLXVI

pistole

05-31-2003, 12:03 AM

Yeah , that Queen is looker. I wonder if she still bonks her husband ...................

Hey , is this the right forum.................

Jimmy33

06-01-2003, 04:27 PM

thinking of getting one of these - why should I get one of these and not a CEN or Kyosho? Please tell as stadium trucks arn't my nomal ground :D

dicko

06-01-2003, 07:48 PM

DCLXVI,

latest on the cnc casing, they said it woulndn't be too difficult to make, but he has just handed in his resignation at the place he works at to move to another company. he did this on friday while i was posting those other posts. he will do them but it will have to wait a few months till he settles in at his new job and the workload reduces. the gears are do-able but they are a bit more labour intensive as they will do them manually and it takes a long time to measure up the tooth parameters and set up the tool. but once the tool is set up they will cut a whole heap at once. both the guys now work at the same workshop so it actually will make it easier when the time comes.

I drove the dt-10 on the weekend and destroyed the drive axle. i will order in a couple, one as a replacement and the other as a template to copy. we will make it out of a single aluminium piece instead of the gear tapped onto the end of the axle. this will increase strength and reduce slop. the slop is what caused the gear to fail.

cheers
Dicko.

DCLXVI

06-02-2003, 02:20 AM

Dicko, sounds great, I'm getting very anxious though as I broke the diff casing again yesterday...almost took the shock tower as well... :( But I'll patiently wait untill they are finnished! I won't nag!

Jimmy, I don't know witch Kyosho you have been looking at and I haven't heard anything about the CEN truck but I know that the DT-10 better equipped out of the box than the basic Kyosho ST are...thats about all I can say, oh exept that the DT-10 looks much cooler :D

/DCLXVI

dicko

06-02-2003, 07:20 PM

Jimmy,

the dt-10 is also cheap as for spare parts and is easy to work on. fast and fun to drive and has no shortage of power up hill.

DCLXVI,

what do you do to break the diff casings? where do they break? is it the shock mounts that break? if so it might be due to your shocks being too hard and exerting too much force on impacts. i've seen this on downhill mountainbikes with disastrous end results for bike and rider:eek:
that is one part i haven't yet destroyed. i go through gears though. i think that is due to the rough treatment over jumps etc. we are looking at making thicker solid aluminium gears. it will probably affect acceleration but onc up to speed they will probably have more momentum. some testing will be in order:D they will still be a while away though. they are working 12 hour days this week. lots of money but no time for fun. i can't live like that anymore.

cheers
Dicko.

DCLXVI

06-03-2003, 12:42 AM

what do you do to break the diff casings?

Almost every time I flip I break the diff-casing...and as you said...it's the tower mounting, little " |\ " part...

/DCLXVI

dicko

06-03-2003, 02:03 AM

a role cage that covers the shock tower mounting and bolts onto the chassis plate may be the answer. i try to run mine with the cover on as muh as possible. that protects the shock tower a bit, but here in oz it can overheat the engine without the airflow over the fins. i might look into fabricating something up, i'm thinking about filing out the bottom of the diff casing where the screws go through from the chassis and mounting the cage there and possibly somewhere further up the shassis. i'll have a look tonight and see what looks good. some old coat-hangers may be destroyed in the prototype stages;)

Kenny T

06-03-2003, 06:50 AM

I am thinking of getting one of these but i have a few questions.

1) Does it come with a slipper clutch?

2) Any parts the break easily?

For $AU384 it's the cheapest nitro truck at the hobby shop and doesn't look so bad.

pistole

06-03-2003, 07:22 AM

Hi Kenny.

Just compare the price of that DT10 with the price of a RTR EB4 1/8 buggy (combo with radio and 0.21 engine installed). If the price difference is great ...... buy the DT10.

If the difference is minor ..... buy the EB4.

Thats my 2 cents worth anyway.

Kenny T

06-03-2003, 07:42 AM

I think they are about $AU500 and i'm pretty happy with the DT-10 but does it have a clutch

pistole

06-03-2003, 07:51 AM

Hi Kenny,

All nitro cars have clutches.

If what you mean to say is whether the DT10 has a slipper-clutch ....... the short answer is no. I think that it was a cost saving measure.

If the EB4 is AU$500

and

the DT10 is AU$384 ...................

............... I would recommend you to save up for the EB4. I started out with a DT10 ......... but the car is really, really fragile ...... mine is lying on the floor now ..... waiting for me to install the new rear shock tower and new ( !!!!DCLXVI !!!!!!) aluminium shocks.

I have not driven it lately.

The reason is simple. Everytime I drive it , I break something. It gets real tiring , really fast to have go looking and shopping for parts like I own the Store ...........

As for the EB4 ( i also have an EK4 ) , these 1/8 cars are as tough as nails ........ nothing on them breaks at all.

Cheers.

DCLXVI

06-03-2003, 09:23 AM

The DT-10 is not as fragile as Pistole suggests...there are weakspots though...the diff casing the foremost...but on the other hand, I have never had a A or H arm breakage...

/DCLXVI

Kenny T

06-03-2003, 10:09 AM

This would be my nitro so I'd take it easy and I have a electric I play with.

1/8 is a bit too big for me, I don't have a car to take it to bashing places and the hobby shop only has an EK4 or the DT-10 or some other brand which I've never heard of(C Y, Hoaboa/Pirate, Flying point, Great Vigor and Hong Nor).

Would you recommend this truck to a beginner.

DCLXVI

06-03-2003, 10:21 AM

Well, I was a beginner when I bought it...although I'm fairliy maechanical inclined so...
I still don't think that is it really hard to use/fix...

/DCLXVI

dicko

06-03-2003, 06:02 PM

the dt-10 is good for a beginner as long as you learn to drive it slow and build up the speed as you get confident. they are considerably faster than most electric. my main glitch is the gears, but having said that all the replacement ones i have bought seem to be more robust than the stock ones. I had to buy a new clutch as well, which was also more robust. Thats cheap if your talking aussie dollars, i paid 440 for mine. but I no longer support that model shop, no after sails service AT ALL. and they treated me as if i was a stupid child even though i have had many other rc cars before.

DCLXVI

I had a look at the shock tower last night and have a couple of ideas. The first was the roll cage, i think that you could drill a couple of holes in the rear corners of the chassis and use some nuts & bolts to secure a rollcage there. replace the yellow plastic nuts that hold the front bumper on with metal ones and there is the front mount for the rollcage. then fashion some medium strength wire into a triangle design that goes over the front and rear shock mounts. i think a couple of soft welded cross beams will be required and these can be fixed to existing chassis mounts, or, like the rear, bolted to new holes drilled in the chassis along the sides. i don't think that drilling the holes on the back corners will affect the strength of the chassis at all.

the second idea is to place a rubber washers between the diff casing mounts and the shock mount. this will give a small amount of play and may be enough to stop the diff mounts breaking without affecting the shock performance. Tamiya make small orange ones to put in drive cups to stop the wishbones slopping round ( i have put these in the dt-10 as well) which might do the trick.

I'm waiting for some parts to arrive from sydney so i can get mine back together again:rolleyes: but they should be here tomorrow or friday hopefully. just in time for the long week end:)

cheers
Dicko.