TTR Dt-10

[unknown person]

uummm hello again

dxl..what ever your name is thanks for the advise hopefully that ruddy gear wont keep on striping

Im going to post some pics of my car in a few days to come. Can everyone in the dt-10 forum post pic of their cars (recent ones) that would be cool :D

Once again another darn question why does me heat sink go yellow if i run my car for a long time???

hope u can all post pics

Dan

[unknown person]

oooooooooohhhhhhh 21 pages

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by unknown person
uummm hello again

dxl..what ever your name is thanks for the advise hopefully that ruddy gear wont keep on striping

Im going to post some pics of my car in a few days to come. Can everyone in the dt-10 forum post pic of their cars (recent ones) that would be cool :D

Once again another darn question why does me heat sink go yellow if i run my car for a long time???

hope u can all post pics

Dan

It's DCLXVI, 666 in latin numerals...
You're welcome
I will do
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/videos/Stills/KingoftheHill_022.jpg
I haven't got the faintest idea...never happend to me...

And if you wan't more pics I have them at my page...just click WWW below...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Ohhh...forgot to mention...I "finnished" with my "rollcage"...it's really just a "fancy" way to mount the body (the body posts won't take the force down to the diff casing)...

/DCLXVI (usualy DCL för short :D )

[dicko]

did you soulder the rollcage together ok? I am still waiting on parts. been over 2 weeks now. the garden hasn't looked so good for a while, been spending my time out there pruning instead of mucking around with the dt-10. have been looking at making a track in the backyard but the dogs tend to go nuts everytime i start up the truck. so i will probably keep walking round to the park and using the track there. if i ever get the truck going again.:rolleyes: the frog and subaru get boring pretty quick.

[DCLXVI]

Yeah, I did solder the rollcage...it's really just two bent sticks of 3mm brass...I will run this and see if it works and then I'll see where I'll go from there...

[pistole]

Hey , DCL , the place where you run your car ......... its really similar to the place where this bloke :-


http://www.sauron.no/videos.asp


does his crazy stuff with his monster trucks.

RB Maxx is kinda like a God in the EK4 world ........ just see that Vid of his ...........

Bye.

[DCLXVI]

I saw RB Maxx's videos along time ago...he's from Norway and I'm from Sweden...look that up on a map and you'll see something funny :)

(*hint look at northern europe*) ;)

That video is really impressive...

Now if I just can get my new engine mount I can go out and try my rollcage!!! Get ready for some serious bashing vids if it works :D

/DCLXVI

[unknown person]

wow cool vids. I looked at them at school cuz at home we only have a 56k modem (ugh) and the have a 3mb coonection cuz we cant get adsl round here so....... they made there own adsl server its huge ive seen it the casing is over 9ft!!

any way on to dt-10s ummm yes im taking a pic of me car when i get hold of the dc!? DCLXVI what kind of roll cage do u have does it make a difference?

Might sell me DT-10 :eek: and get a ofna hyper 7 pro or a terra cursher (will swap if u know any one that wants a dt-10 in england (poss south (west)) will sell let me know. For more info plze email me

Im sorry i have to do this:( but life goes on:o

[DCLXVI]

The "rollcage" I have are really simpel as of now and I have not tested it yet...the only real protection it offers (intends to offer) are for the diff casing, you could say that it is a rather different kind of body posts...

I don't have a camera right now so I can't post pics either... :(

[dicko]

The part is due to arrive tomorrow:) hope it is in the box. have been waiting 3 weeks now. will be good to get the dt-10 rolling again.

DCL, looking forward to seeing how you put the roll cage together. I will look at putting one together soon. might use a blow torch to weld up a beefy one for some abuse.

Cheers
Dicko

[DCLXVI]

DCL, looking forward to seeing how you put the roll cage together. I will look at putting one together soon. might use a blow torch to weld up a beefy one for some abuse.


I think I would recommend that...

My rollcage are just a prototype...I'll have to test it and see how the general design works...as of now the body and rollcage are more or less held in place by the front body post...with is itselfe lenghtend... (I have mounted the cage in the diff casing, upper holes on the side, but it is not secured)

I'm waitnig for my parts too but I'm not really hopefull since this is the last day before the 3-day midsummer holiday!...

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

No more holidays for us until october:( I am not holding my breath on the parts coming in tomorrow, but the supplier said they sent them out yesterday, so it SHOULD come in tomorrow (Friday), but i think Monday is more likely. I was looking at mounting the front of the rollcage under the bumper screws at the front, and taking them over the front and rear shock towers to the lower diff casing at the back. but in hindsight it may be difficult to bend the wire into a small enough loop to fit snuggly around the screws. But i will give it a go.

Have had to put the Trac-ta-gator tyres on hold for a while, they are a bit expensive for my current budget:( but hopefully i will get them before next winter:rolleyes: only 2 days till the shortest day of the year, so summer is almost on its way:D I can't wait.

have you played around with the camber on the rear wheels? i have worn out the inside of both back wheels. I am looking at winding the rods out to stand the wheels up straighter like | | instead of / \ . I didn't know that the tyres were so expensive.

Cheers
Dicko

[dicko]

My part finally arrived:D now I can get the dt-10 going again. I was looking at new engines to put in the dt-10. I am looking at a 0.21 TTR at the moment, from local goss it is the best value for money, most reliable and best power output for the price range. Plus it will be the easiest to fit into the car. I will look into it after I get the new wheels and tyres up & running.

Looking forward to the rebuild tonight.

Cheers
Dicko

[DCLXVI]

I think that a .12 would be easier to install inte the DT-10 due to the fact that .15 and .12 are the same size...

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

I was looking at getting a larger, more powerful engine. I think it would be ok putting in a 0.21 if I make my own gears that are stronger than the stock ones. I have a 0.21 in another car but it is less powerfull than the 0.15 I have in the DT-10. So it will remain in the other car, unless i put the 0.15 from the DT-10 in there after I get a new engine. Not sure what I'll do yet. It will be a while before I do anything anyway. The tyres are the first priority at the moment.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

If you manage to "create" those gears, do you think you could let me buy one?

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Stick with the .12 or the .15.

A .21 is far too powerful for that type of car.

Its not just a question of whether the .21 will fit , but has alot to do with suspension/gearbox/driveshafts and chassis setup.

When I broke my stock .15 and changed to the EVO .12 engine , I started to break pinion gears in the gbox , strip main spur gears and at full throttle , I get rear suspension chatter due to the over powering of the rear end.

Get a good .12/.15 , it will serve you fine.

Cheers.

[dicko]

Do Thunder Tiger make a higher profile 0.15? I was looking at some others but the exhaust won't fit the dt-10, ie the OS has a rear exhaust, and one of the others jetted the wrong way and it wasn't reversable.

Cheers
Dicko.

[pistole]

No , there isn't a 'hot' .15 from TTR.

What there is , is the EVO .12 ( 5 port , 2 piece head and lightened everything ) ....... which is very good.

The OS/Nova Rossi engines , most , do not fit because , as you observed as well , are rear exhaust. I believe that it can be modified , but may not be worth the effort /money.

Bye.

[DCLXVI]

It sould be possible to find a new mainfold that fit for rear exahust engines...I've seen those, don't know where though...

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

I've reconsidered the new engine. I have come up with another option;) Shaving the head of the existing 0.15:D i spoke to some guys who race the 0.21 and shaving the head is the easiest way to boost power. i spoke to my toolmaker friend last night and he can do it to within 1/1000th of a millimeter accuracy. All i need to know is how much to shave off:confused: so if anyone has had any experience let me know. i don't want to shave too much off and stick the piston into the head. I think i will do it to the 0.12 first to see how it goes, then make a decision on the DT-10.

DCL,

if i manage to get the gears up & running, we will make a heap all at once. It takes the longest to set up the machines, so we may as well make as many as we can while we are there. but it is a long job so I have to wait till they have less work to do, and it will have to be on a weekend. but I will let you know. I haven't seen the guy who works the cnc machine for a month now, and he starts his new job next monday, so it will be quite a while before i can get the diff housing made, but the top half will be first when i get it done.

[DCLXVI]

That sounds very interesting...

Porting and polishing the engine are, I think, somewhat of black magic...

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

I've found another option. If the top of the piston on its maximum up stroke is below the lowest part of the exhaust port, the port can be widened so that the lowest part of the exhaust port is level or just above the top of the piston. this allows for better release of exhaust gasses. I'm not sure how this works but apparently a few fliers do it. Haven't hard of cars doing this though yet:rolleyes: :confused: so i will ask around.

I still haven't found anyone willing to tell me how much to shave off of the head. they all seem very protective of this measurement, I think they don't want to lose "the edge" on their competition:rolleyes: but i am sure there is someone out there who will share this information. All I have to do is find them.;)

Cheers
Dicko

[DCLXVI]

Aren't the ports closed on the TDC? Otherwise you would get no compression...

Both the inlet port and the exhaust ports are opend at the same time...when the piston are at the lowest part of the stroke...
That is why it is hard (impossible?) to supercharge a model engine...

[dicko]

Your right, i got it the wrong way round. when the piston is at bottom dead centre, that is the point of reference for shaving the exhaust port. but you can definitely supercharge a model engine. i have seen two that have been done. the hardest part is getting the screw right. I have some photos of them but i can't post them on this site, they are too large. they are road cars. If you want i could email them to you. they are roughly 600-700kb each, bitmap files. very impresssive and lots of time spent on them.

Cheers
Dicko

[DCLXVI]

sure, mail ahead...adress at my site...

/DCLXVI

[el^barto]

Helo fellows!

This is my first post here. I'm from Portugal and I have a TTR DT-10 too, just like you.

I just bought the truck a few days ago and it ran about 10/15 fuel tanks so the engine is just a baby for now, but I've just experienced some problems with the stock shocks which are loosing oil (just one of them). I think it's a problem with O'rings or it might be another problem but I just can't realise that. I think I'd solve it with an alluminium ones which are much better.

Ok, after my short presentation, here's my first question:

How can I build myself a Throttle Return Spring for the truck?

I have just some ideas to improve the servo runtime with two sets of batteries and a voltage regulator, but I didn't tested it yet so I can't share it with you now. But since I'm an Electronics Engineer Student I will try to test it asap and perhaps design another projects that can be implemented at home with a few electric parts.

Well It's all for now!

Enjoy the rides!!

P.S. I've just seen this -> http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/html/main_main.htm and I loved It. Congratulations to de webmaster!! :)

[DCLXVI]

Thanks for the congrats...thats my site...

I have never had problem with the stock shocks leaking, besides cracking the top I have had no trouble what so ever with them...

As for servo battery run time, I'm running four GP 2000 mAH AA batterys with works really good, I have never had any trouble with them...and I'm running a 5 kg steering servo...(Hitec 545)...

TRS, I have no idea...I had a spring with did fit but it was to strong and the servo wouldn turn...I suggest that you get a fail-safe...not the same kind of protection but the batteries fails less often than the radio gliches...

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

I have a shorter battery run time since I have installed a heavy duty digital servo for stearing and the failsafe, but I'd rather shorter battery life than a destroyed car. I have noticed lately that my failsafe kicks in after braking over bumps, but I just turn the reciever off & on again and it starts working again. I don't have leaking shox but the oil gets less viscous over time and needs replacing now and again to keep the damping right. same as my shox on my bike. I'm currently running 30 weight oil and drive mostly on grass, dirt RC track and uneven surfaces. if you are running on road I would go for thicker oil, ie 40W.

I do recommend a tuned exhaut pipe though, i put one on and there was a noticeable difference in speed and acceleration.

Cheers
Dicko

[dicko]

Just remembered, DCL, what did you think of those supercharged cars? I think the owners have too much time on their hands;) but if I could I probably would too:D The car is running very well at the moment but I know that something will go wrong now that I have said that. It's a fact of life that can't be changed. I am going to the shop next week to order all the spare parts for the gearbox. Hopefully we can measure them all before I need to use them. That way we can attempt to make our own spares (I'll let you know how I go DCL). Hope the ones in the car last a while. I have shimmed everything and it is all running smooth. I may just have a few easy runs until I get the parts made, hope it doesn't take too long.

I have been running it in a huge shed that has had the floor sanded (and swept smooth), but not yet concreted. Great fun, fast and we have even made a few jumps. The only problem is that it gets quite smoke filled with 2 cars running WOT together:D but a fan should help. Better than standing in the rain getting wet, or sitting inside looking at a square box.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

The SC cars are pretty cool....makes me wonder about the effectivness though...my truck are STILL down... ARGH!!!!

I have started to ponder buying a TXT-1 ro have something to crawl with...300 USD for the car then some more for chargers and stuff...around 5-600 USD for everything... :)

[dicko]

My old Tamiya Frog is the most reliable and toughest electric car I have ever owned. And it is still quicker than most of the new stock Tamiya electric cars. It thrashed a super hornet the other week, even with slicks on wet grass against a superior battery (I still run the stock black 6 cell battery, they are cheap and do the job). They don't make parts for that car anymore, and haven't for over ten years, but I haven't needed any.:cool:

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I like the old metallic-era tamiya cars such as the HiLux 4x4 and the Sand Scorcher...to bad they are super expensive though...

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

DCL,

Did you ever get that stearing set up redesigned? I noticed that I have split the servo arm on the stearing. I used a zip tie to fix the problem. Works well so far. but I still want to find a better solution. I'm not sure what it will be yet, but there has to be a better way to do it than the way it comes out of the box.

I noticed you have a hose on your exhaust as well. The pipe I got is stiffer and pokes straight out level with the two wheels. So all the oilly exhaust is jetted past the rear wheel. I was amazed at first how well it worked.

I need to buy a new exhaust joiner. The yellow one that came with the car is almost destroyed. I have been using hose clamps to attach it so that the exhaust doesn't slip off when it gets oilly. No matter how tight I did the zip ties they were never tight enough to hold it together. The thin stainless clamps are the best.

Has anyone found a 2 speed gearbox that fits? I think that would be worth while. Especially on large flat sandy surfaces where you can really wind the speed up:D .

Signing off for the week end, have a good one & safe runnings

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Well...I haven't looked at the steering thinamajig...It works now with a zip-tie around the "C"...
The exhaust system I have now works, even with the zip-tie...

Two speed, I think that you could fit the SSR two speed with some modding ut I don't know if it will allow braking...

/DCLXVI

[unknown person]

hi, me again

Ummm dt-10 running well just read a load of replys from this forum and i have the same problem with my steering thingamijig, its slack as hell!!!

Anyone tryed the eb4 springs yet on the dt-10 If so please give me ur verdict

Dicko,i want to change my engine aswell for more 'power'. i was thinkin about gettin on os engine this one:

http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2023.html

i think ill go for the 15 size engine with the pull start!

Does anyone know if you can get a bigger fuel tank because mine is a 2 minute jobber!!!

Away in spain on sunday for a week so the dt-10 is out of action unless my dad uses it! My mate has a terra crusher (git) and we usually go up the local bmx track with the cars. Sadly he somehow lost the radio for it and the electric start

Hopefully will get it runnin 2morrow if i can might get some pics of it

Dan

[DCLXVI]

Anyone tryed the eb4 springs yet on the dt-10 If so please give me ur verdict

I remeber that someone did that, can't remember who though! The result was really good IIRC...

The reason I haven't done anything to my steering yet is that I pretty happy with how it works now...

I STILL HAVEN'T GOT THE ENGINE MOUNTS!!! I'M GETTING SICK OF WAITING!!! :mad:

Eh, sorry about the cap's, I got upset...hope you under stand ;)

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

I spoke too soon about the car running perfect. It was running really well on the w/e but It needed a little tweking on the tuning. So while I was tweeking the engine stalled. Pulled the pullstart and guess what? Yep, the pull start snapped in my hand. I have heard of a couple of other people snapping their DT-10 pullstart (on this forum I think), so it came as no surprise. :mad: But it is dead easy to fix. It took me 5 minutes and a better quality cord. The one on the DT-10 is thinner than any of the other ones I have used. I replaced It with a piece of building cord for now, but I will put some 2mm spectra cord in there tonight. Strong, and fuel resistant.

I think that the OS engine needs to have a modification to the exhaust to fit it onto the DT-10. I think the exhaust faces the wrong way.

I looked at getting new shocks, but replaced the oil to 30 weight and haven't had any problems since. much cheaper too. I would recommend doing this first before spending lots of money on new shocks.

I put a zip tie around the c-clip and it resulted in a broken servo arm. I have since removed that zip tie from the c-clip and put it on the servo arm to hold it together. I might look at finding/making a stronger c-clip that will still spring open on impact but hold together tighter under normal running. that may be the easiest solution for now.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Wonder why I didn't recive any notification for you message...plain luck I got here now...

I have bought myselfe a digital camera! :D So now I have pics of my "roll cage"...remember the only purpouse of are really to mount the body somewhere else than on the shock tower...and I'll have to see about how this one works before I start modifying this...really crude beta!

[DCLXVI]

BTW, funny, I hve never had any real trouble with the steering assembly since I put that zip-tie on the "C"...

Pull-start cords will break, no matter the brand...I heard of one guy that has broken his OS "puller" about three times and he has had the engine for a shorter time than I have had my DT-10...(don't know if his cord has survived though)...

More pics... :

[dicko]

Nice soldering job. do you have cross mounts that attach to the side of the chassis in the middle of the car? can you post a pic of the front part? I was thinking of attaching the rollcage to the lower holes on the diff casing at the rear of the car. I think they would be less likely to snap off down there as they are partially supported by the chassis.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/img_187.jpg

[DCLXVI]

I have plans for a more "complete" cage...I'll have to see how this holds first...

[dicko]

DCL,

Have you glued those tyres on? I looks like they are coming away from the rim in one of the pics on your website. I have lost a tyre after it came off at max rpm, it went so fast and far that I had no chance of seeing where it ended up. superglue (very thin layer at short intervals around the rim) works well. Too much though and you will have all sorts of problems when it comes to replacing the tyres, and if you use too much it takes a long time to set and gets very messy.

I haven't had time to look at anything on the car since the week end. I might try to start building a roll cage this week end.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I think I know with pic you are talking about...it's about 6 month old... I have glued all my tires (5 pair)

I just got the engine mount...I doesn't fit all that good...but I think that it will work anyway....

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

The brickies cord i used for the pull start is starting to frey all ready. Looks like I will be changing it again this weekend. I have to make a new gasket for the exhaust pipe too. the one on there at the moment is leaking badly. two easy jobs that shouldn't take long. I am planning on ordering a heap of spare gears this week, they take a while to come in so i may as well get a few spares before I need them.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I took my and my cousins trucks (he has a USA-1 nitro) out yesterday...I think both mine and his engines are experiencing air leaks, his at the pull starter, mine around the carb needel, I need to get some form of do-it-yourselfe-gasket...

Other than that, it ran great...almost lifted the front wheels from the ground with the stock engine and pipe :D
Managed to do some minor flips aswell, the rollcage seems to be working as designed...

[dicko]

air shouldn't leak out through the pull start. I got some off cut gasket material from a friend who uses it at his work, didn't cost anything as they would have just thrown it away. I got some 2mm dacron rope from the marine shop to replace the pull start. that is dirt cheap compared to buying it from the Kite shop or Model shop. And it is exactly the same rope:rolleyes: . I will be fixing both the gasket and pull start tonight.

If you get some gasket material and want to make your own gasket here is how to do it.

1. after thouroughly cleaning, put a very thin smear of grease on either the exhaust port on the engine or pipe. whichever has the larger exhaust hole is the one to do. otherwise you will blow gasket material through the pipe and possibly damage it.

2. very carefully place the gasket material over the greased port and make sure you don't let it slip, press firmly.

3. pull the gasket material away from the port. you should see a perfect outline of the port.

4. using a sharp pen knife cut out the gasket shape and punch the holes out for the screws.

5. put it on the engine and locktite the screws.

It is a pretty simple procedure and cheaper than buying the whole TTR exhaust kit for 1 gasket. It can get fiddly if you don't have a sharp/thin enough pen knife, but I once you have done 1 they get better with practise.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

Hello,

I recently orderded mt DT-10 and should be getting it delivered today. I havent read all the posts, but I read some of them. It sounds like the dt-10 doesn't come with a TRS, do I need one if I'm going to be wsing a fail-safe?

Thanks!

[DCLXVI]

Fail-safes and TRS won't save you from the same kind of failure...
You sould be fine with only a fail-safe as long as you keep your batterys securely mounted and recharged...

[dicko]

Here is a hint when you are re-threading your pull start. dip the cord in 0% nitrous fuel first. It not only helps to stop the cord from freying, but lubricates it so that it re-coils neater and faster (less friction). I put in a new cord and exhaust gasket last night. took me longer to clean the engine than to replace the pull start and gasket. I probably should have done that a while ago. looks like new now:D

can't wait to test the gasket on the week end. It is almost dark by the time i get home. should be enough light in another month to run the car after work. looking forward to it.

The gasket material is thicker than I have used before so I hope it doesn't leak on such a small port. I didn't want to over tighten the screws and strip the thread. I am not a fan of tapping threads, especially on small holes that will need to be welded up first.

I ordered all the gearbox gears yesterday as spares, so with any luck I won't need to use them. I will try to get some copied DCL, but it will take a while before I get the chance. I will test them when I have made them and let you know how durable they are.

Cheers & safe runnings
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I were out running yesterday afterwork (as we are in the middle of our summer here it's light untill about 0:00...)
The truck flew around :D Sooooo smooooth...I think that the new diff-gears helps alot... (they are hardend instead of cast)... :D

[unknown person]

Wow midnight that is cool, If that happened in England all of 'our' neighbour would get a bit on the old niggly side hearing a nitro engine scream past their house, especially where i live, its bad enough just running it up and down the garden!

any way im back from spain and saw a few r/c cars but they were electrick (suckers) one was one of those cheapeo monster truck things that last for 2 minutes (no offence to anyone that has one) until the batt runs out (thank god for nitro) and the other one was a tamiya subaru which i had to say was a bit....................slow!

I went into me local hobby shop yesterday and they did eb4 spings (about time) and i found an os tuned pipe with looked a lot nicer and better than the thunder tiger 1.

Hoping to get that os engine if i have enough money (im only 14)

DCLXVI, like what u have done to ur arrangements in ur car ill try that and the roll cage is great

post another lecture later

Dan

[DCLXVI]

I still haven't really checked the ruggedness of my rollcage...It feels alot more secure to do a bad roll now though...

[Falco]

Well, I got my dt-10 the other day, and it looks good! I got the ARTR, so I still need a few things which I plan to order today. If I'm luckey, I'll be able to break it this weekend!:D

[Falco]

quick question, will associated tyres fit on the front of the dt-10? I have adapters for my HPI tyres, but only for the rears.

[DCLXVI]

Tires sould fit, rims I have no idea...you might have to drill the axel hole abit...but all 2,2" tires sould fit the stock rims...

Hope you'll enjoy your DT-10, I sure have :)

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Hi. How have you'all been ?

Good I hope .

Nice to see you fellas here.

[Falco]

sorry, I ment wheels, not tyres

[unknown person]

its a good idea to change the wheels cuz there r cheap stock ones

I wouldnt mind puting some proline tryes and proline rims if i can

[unknown person]

ps Falco just a quick bit of advise. i dont know if anyone else has had this prob but i have CHANGE THE BATTERY HOLDER i remeber when mine fell out and it nearly hit a subaru!!! (the new one aswell)

I have now got a moded futaba 2400 batterys boy r they good:D
But the throttle servo moves like a disabled slug (very slow) I think its time for a new servo!

[dicko]

It's going to be a fine and sunny all weekend. I'll be down the rc track with the DT-10 I think:D. I don't know when the spares I ordered will come in and it doesn't matter at the moment, everything is running OK. But when I strip one of the gears, I should have a spare to put right back in there. No waiting for a week or more before I can get it going again. All I need now is some decent tyres, the stock ones are next to useless on wet grass, and almost as slippery on hard packed dirt that the rc track is made out of. I haven't had a problem with the stock rims though and I plan on getting another set of them.

I looked at some other brand stadium trucks at the hobby shop and they may have the same size engines, but the rest of the cars are cheap plastic. AND THEY COST MORE than the DT-10. I couldn't believe it:eek: they had plastic chassis, plastic drive cups, plastic shock mounts and plastic shock towers to name a few of the plastic parts. Are you getting the picture that it was plastic? can't remember the brand but it was supposed to be a good one. I was surprised that they had it chained up! As if anyone would steal it. At least all of us here were smart enough to buy the real deal.

I would love to put the DT-10 up against one of those in an indurance race, boy would that be fun.

Cheers & fast runnings
Dicko.

[Falco]

the stock body for the dt-10 dosen't have any cooling holes in it. Every other nitro car I've seen dose, do I need to put them in?

[DCLXVI]

I did take the whole front window out on my Chevy body but that was more of a saftey measure...

[unknown person]

grrrrrr, Who ever made and designed (i know thunder tiger made it but the person who designed it) should be shot, its such a crud layout and overal design. I could easily spend over £500 (dunno about exchange rates?!) on it and would be a different car. Can u get a carbon chassis is not ill make 1 myself :o :D

Cooling: Ive never really thought of it, I usally run it naked!

any way going 2 run the car around the garden

Dan

[unknown person]

Pics r here

who do u get the pics on her cuz mine r 2 big dammit

[DCLXVI]

I think that the DT-10 is an average design...what do you expect for the price you pay? 24 carat gold cooling head? full carbon fibre double deck chassi and shocktower in titanium? Seriously...the truck is fine...it has an in-line engine as opposed to some of the competitons across mounting (Kyosho Ultima, AE RC10GT, Losi XXX-NT and afew others) that requires different design philosophy...
The truck as two major weak-spots...the diff casing and the body mounting pins...they are also part of the same problem...IE if you fix the pins you'll break the casing easier...I think that my simple rollcage will remidy the problem sufficently but it will take some more hardcore crashes to find out...I also must find out how to keep the cage in place in the front end...

Witch brings me to my next topic...I ran a tank through it today...great fun...I swear that the truck goes better and faster for each tank of fuel! I managed to pull the truck trough a crash also...the rollcage *seem* to do it's job but I'm as I said, not really certain yet...

On another note...I did some thinking about reconfiguring the steering and I think I know how...comes complete with ball-bearings :D I'll keep you uppdated, ok?

And finally, Hi Pistole, where have you been? Long time, no see amigo! How does all of your ThunderTiger cars/trucks run?

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by unknown person
Pics r here

who do u get the pics on her cuz mine r 2 big dammit

Wow...exact same time!!!

If you are running WinME, Win2000 or WinXP you can use paint to resize them...about 600 pixels with usualy works (needs to be around 60 kb)...

Sorry, btw if I sounded hars in my pervious message but its hard communicating through text with no emotions and especially it being 22:00 here and I'm not speaking my native tounge... :D

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

Like I said, you think the DT-10 is bad, look at some of the more expensive plastic heaps out there, Traxxas makes an all plastic one that costs more than the DT-10. The DT-10, like DCL said, is excellent value for money.

On another note, I haven't had to put holes in the body running duwn under in our hot summers. There seems to be enough air flow under the body as well as the front of the body being high enough to let airflow in there. But on my roadcar I have had to cut all the windows out plus vent the roof. I like the DT-10. Once you upgrade the gears, no probs. When you get good traction it is possible to accelerate hard enough to keep the front wheels 2-3 inches off the ground for several metres, my best so far is about 5-6m on the back straight of the local rc track. you can't do that with many other stadium trucks.:D :D :D .

I always run with the body on, it gives more protection and i think our warmer climate allows the plastic on the car to be a bit more flexible. It says in the manual not to drive it below 5 deg celsius. we don't see that very often, it got down to 4.8 yesterday morning and that seemed freezing to me. Bring on summer.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

5 deg C? I've ran mine below -10 deg... :D

[dicko]

By the way Dan,

Carbon fibre is brittle on its own. I t would make for a spectacular crash with debris flying everywhere, I'd use a composite of Kevlar-Carbon. that would give some flex as well as strength. I use it a lot on my sail boats. It will take a thrashing too. but you will have to keep it out of the sun. Carbon and Kevlar both deteriorate in sunlight. But it is very easy to work with. Just maKe or buy a sheet, trace the original chassis plate onto it and carefully cut it out.

Minus 10! I wouldn't get out of bed if it was -10;) but so far i haven't had that. I have had -4 or 5 in the morning when I was working in the desert, but that was followed by a 48+ degree day(in the shade). Glad I don't work out there anymore.

Friday:) going to go home and have a tall glass of beer tonight. what a hectic week:rolleyes: .

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

so no running in -5 deg huh? I guess that rules out running in during a tipical canadaina -30 winter. :mad:

[unknown person]

right, since xp is being a pain in the ass then you will have to e-mail me for the pics

I was messing around on paint and i came across invert colours and what a cool shell design, ask for it, its worth it

Kevlar-carbon you say, sounds good, hopfully get then new springs when i got some more money cuz im bankrupt at da moment and might get a new tuned pipe as well:D

Dan

[dicko]

I had trouble tuning the car in on the weekend. I could get it to run max revs no problem but it kept stalling on desceleration. I knew it had something to do with the fuel line to the carby but it took a while to find. It was a leaky join on the fuel nozzle on the carby, all it required was to tighten the mixture pin housing and no dramas:) .

Then less that 2 minutes later, i bumped into the water meter out the front. I wasn't even giong very quick, and the whole front right wheel assembly folded under the car:mad: :confused: . I guess all the bangs and hits had created a weak spot and that last bump was the straw that broke the camels back.

I broke a front bulkhead, tie rod end and the top of the shock. I am off to the model shop at lunch to order the spares. I still haven't recieved my other spares yet so they will probably all come together.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

got the car alset up and reday to go, but the clutch will not emgadge!!:confused: :mad:

It idols fine, but stall when i open the throttle. I hardly get any movement out of it. any ideas??

[dicko]

It's stock take time. The hobby shop isn't taking any orders for another 1-2 weeks. Aurgh.:mad: . looks like the dt-10 will get a good cleaning and the Subaru will get a few runs now. Better check I have enough fuel for that one, it only takes 10% nitrous. I think I may be heading back to the hobby shop to buy fuel tomorrow.

I'll be buying spare parts for the front too now, I may as well buy a whole second car & use it for spares.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I had that problem with the clutch when I first got the car. Pull the bell gear off & check that there isn't a ring around the clutch that holds the clutch in. My problem was that the stock clutch was useless and melted closed on the first tank of fuel. TTR make a replacement that is grey in colour instead of white, it is much more durable. The hobby shop where I bought my DT-10 replaced it for free. But I don't know if they are all that generous. Otherwise they are cheap to buy, about $8 Aussie, $4 American.

Good Luck
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I have put my rollcage to the test...it came out looking for more! Only problem are looks and fastening...now it's sitting there with zip-ties...I'd like to use something more "reusable"...since I have to remove the entire thing just to work on the truck...

[Falco]

dicko,

are you talking about the spring around the clutch? do you think it will help/hurt if I take the spring out?

I'll look for the new grey clutch, is it any bigger, b/c i have a fare bit of play between the clutch and bell housing.

Thanks

[Falco]

has anyone else found they get a lot of fuel in the cooling head around the glow plug? I don't want to over tighten it, but I'm seem to be getting fuel everwhere. :(

[DCLXVI]

The spring is extremly important to have where it sits...otherwise the cluch will always grip/slip...
Tighten the glowplug all the way...there sould be no damage done from that...quite the opposite, the glow plug can be shot loosefrom the compression in the ingition chamber, giving it a nice orbit around the earth...

[DCLXVI]

I have another modification in mind aswell (apart from the steering thingy)...I were thinking about building away the upper chassi deck and replacing it with a considerably smaller peice...and mounting the servos to the lower chassi...
What do you think? Will I save weight and space enough for it to be worth my while?

[DCLXVI]

I may as well buy a whole second car & use it for spares.

I would say that my car, with all the mods I have done, is pretty bulltet-proof...when I ran this saturday I tried to jump a almost vertical wall resulting in a few substatially cart-wheels and a few tough crashes and nothing broke! (lost one of the head-light lenses on my body though...)...

[Falco]

I took the clutch apart again this morning and cleed it off with alchohlo and streched the spring a bit. stared the car up and it moved!!!!!!!!!:D :D

It didn't go all that fast, but atleast it moved!

[unknown person]

Falco, check your brake tightness! i dont know if that will work

Anyway, Disaster!!!:( :mad: :mad:

I was blasting it up and down a big grass patch in my village and i kind of (cough cough) ran it into a pudlle that was rather deep:eek: :eek: !

I think i have broken the reciever even though i have sealed it the battery is ready sealed and...............it doesnt move or anything (the servos dont work either!):mad:

So on to a different note:

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/remote/dan/

Big thanks to DCLXVI who did this 4 me some of them r bit blurry but they are basic picks of my car (before it broke lol)

Dan

[Falco]

wel, i went out at lunch to run the car some more, but the glow igniter was dead :(

I think I figured out why the car wasen't going that fast before though... anyone know where I can get a metal spur grear? :p I snuged the moter up closer, hope this works!

[DCLXVI]

anyone know where I can get a metal spur grear?

Nope...why don't you try one of these ROUND spur gears instead?

:D

[el^barto]

Originally posted by dicko
I like the DT-10. Once you upgrade the gears, no probs. When you get good traction it is possible to accelerate hard enough to keep the front wheels 2-3 inches off the ground for several metres...

Hello!

How do you upgrade the gears? What do you change? I'm new to this, can you explain me?

Thanks a lot!

[dicko]

The stock TTR gears aren't as good as there replacement parts for some reason. the replacement diff gear is much thicker and heavier and lasts a LOT longer than the stock one. Same goes for the clutch, shockers and several other parts.

I found a hobby shop that had the front bulkhead and shocks in stock:) the replacement shocks are much beefier than the stock ones. The loopholes to mount them are made thicker and stronger and there is a whole range on baffles to put in them. I put the baffles with 1 hole instead of the stock 2 and they are much better. I also used 30w oil. Results in a very nice stiff shock. I have super glued up one of the holes in the set with 2 holes. I will put them in the other shocks tonight.

I am still waiting on tie rod ends though. No one had them in stock:( .

Falco,

The spring will open up as the revs get higher and engage the clutch. If the clutch doesn't look melted or the spring worn, it probably won't be the clutch. To get the right distance between the bell gear and the spur gear use a piece of paper to put between them. When the engine mount scews are loose roll a piece of paper between the bell gear and the spur gear, push the engine close and tighten the screws. Then roll the paper out and that should be the right spacing.


By the way check the scews on your exhaust, they come loose easily and get fuel oil everywhere, that may be the source of your oil on the head. I locktite every screw on the car, I can't stress this enough, they come loose very easily. I have brought the car in from a run with 1 (yes 1) screw left holding the engine to the chassis.

Hope this helps.

Dicko.

[dicko]

I couldn't be bothered waiting for the tie rod ends so I bought some Tamiya ones. They are a 2mm shorter but they are made out of softer, less brittle plastic. This can only be a good thing for crashes. I think they will work well as a stabiliser tie-rod end. I wouldn't use them on the stearing arms as I think they may pull out over time, but the stabiliser arms don't experience this force, they are more of a compressional force so it shouldn't matter.

The car should be back running again tonight. Hopefully the Tamiya parts will hold up to the challenge.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

no kidding the screws come loose! I just took the car out for a quick run before work and my manifold almost came off!!

I just hope that's why I was getting super high revs and no movement.

Other wise the car is running good. Ran not bad yesterday morning (abit slow) after cleaning the clutch and streaching the spring. Then after relising I was stripping the spur gear, I move the motor in closer and it was running great after work! After supper I had some trouble getting it giong, but it finally went after crashing into a school. :( I bent the rod holding the tuned pipe, and it came off the manifold, that was loud. :)

Time to tighten some screws and hope I didn't fry the motor!:(

[unknown person]

Guess what i found the problem and it was the most unobvious thing that i could think of!

I took the reciever out, only to find that i had no crystal in there!!:eek: :eek: I found it in the reciever protector!! thank god

Now it runs like an angle, well...... not quite. I was running it allong yesterday and suddenly, the engine sound went really low and quite! its never idled like this before, but when you try to pull away it take a couple of seconds to kick in!! and then it goes like stink.

I changed the suspension settings on the shock tower and it makes a slight difference!! It still bottoms but not as much as it used to.

Im at school doing this so i have to go now

Dan

[DCLXVI]

And I was thinking about asking you about the crystal! Why didn't I???

Bogging down usually means that your needle is set to rich...

[dicko]

That bogging down is how my problem started on the weekend. It may be that the fuel inlet on you carby has come loose and is letting air in with the fuel. This will make it rich. If you haven't changed the settings on the carby yourself and it started doing it by itself I would check the pin housing on the carby. Another sign is that the engine will stall on desceleration. If you can move the nozzle (sideways) that the fuel line connects to on the carby easily, you need to tighten it. That solved all my problems untill the front wheel folded under the car.

I finished re-building the car last night, I have redone all the shocks as well. Much better at cornering with the stiffer shocks. I can see the tyres wearing out quickly now though:D. I have now got a front bulkhead and spare shock and tie-rod ends in my kit. I don't want to have to wait for spares again and those parts are likely to be the ones that fail.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

Still having some clutch trouble. :( The car runs fine almost all the time, but it takes awhile fir it to reach top speed (scary fast :D ).

Was running it this morning and lost a wheel, guess I need to locktight them too!:) Oh well, it was only the cheep nylon nut and wheel pin that i really lost, but no more runing the car for a bit. :( Hope the rest of you guys have better luck! :)

[Falco]

Well, I managed to fix the wheel!:)
It's still taking some time to get full rev's and top speed, I think I might have it set to rich.

What do you guys reccomend for a steering servo? I find mine a bit week when it comes to high speed turns in the parking lot, I usualy use the breakes to spin around, but half the time it stall out. :(

[DCLXVI]

I'm using HiTec's HS-545 for my steering...I think that the HS-525 or mabey even one of the HS-4xx sevos would be better...the 545 are abit slow (I'm currently running 4,8v, I'll have to try 6,0v)...but you'll have to use a good reciver pack for these servos...alkaline batts won't last long...(I'm using four GP2000 AA cells in the orig. holder)

[dicko]

I use a Fatuba metal geared digital servo on 6V battery supply. It works really well. I can't remember the model number though. It sound like you still need to tweek your engine a litttle to tune it in right. You should be able to get it to hit max rpm almost straight away and hold it for long periods of time then hit the brakes without it stalling. you should make sure that there is always visible white smoke coming out of the exhaust, otherwise you are running it too lean and that isn't good for the engine. My settings are way out compared to the standard, I have 4.5 turns out on the pin where the reccomended is 2.5 turns. each engine/carby is different and you need to spend the time to find the right settings for your car.

Good luck

Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Soon we will se what the DT-10 is capabable of...orderd some stuff from Tower Hobbies yesterday... wait till you hear this! :D

1 O.S. 15CV-R (1,2 HP @ 30 000, max 36 000 rpm)
1 Alu tuned pipe
1 HiTec HS525 servo (throttle)
4 HPI Geolandar 2,2" off-road tires
+some misc. supplies
Order total about 275 USD (thats what I'd have to pay for the engine alone here)...including shipping (air, 10-30 days) I'll just have to see if I have to pay $$$ for custom and VAT and s*it...

:D

[Falco]

tryed to lean out my fuel mixture, and the car stalls:confused: :(

I still get a fair bit of white smoke coming from the pipe, so it's not too lean. (think I might even be getting more smoke with the screw a 1/4 turn in??)

I put the screw back where it was 2 1/2 - 3 turns out, and it was running ok again. It still stalls in an idel, and it's a bugger to start if I don't get to it quick, the car wont stay primed.

DCLXVI
sounds sweet, hope it all works for you. I was planing on getting the geolanders for my eletric truck, but nobody had them in when I was shopping, let me know what you think of them.

[unknown person]

hi all

Dt-10 is going fine but i have run out of fuel!!!:eek: , so thankfully im using my dad heli fuel which i have to say makes the car run a bit smoother! (i think its 10% nitro)

I should shart to think about getting some new tires cuz mine are turning into slicks. Im going to try and get some from pro-line any1 recommend any?! I might also get a new shell???

getting my new shocks 2morrow, the hardend eb4 ones, i hope they make a difference, if anyone has attepted this then please let me know the result. And also might get a bigger pipe:D for more power!! (im curious about this, has any1 made thier dt-10 wheelie yet cuz ive been trying but it doesnt work (new engine time then))

Dan

[dicko]

I have had my DT-10 do wheelies on numerous occasions. you need stiff shox and to lean out the fuel mix to gain maximum acceleration. But br carefull not to lean it out too much or it will stall. Plus don't hold it max revs for too long or it will stall too. you will also nee a surface that you can get maximum traction on, like dry short grass or compacted dirt. I have done most of mine on the back straight of a RC track with hard packed dirt.:D have fun.

Falco,

Wind the Idle screw in a bit to open the hole up while idling. This will increase the Idle speed and make it less likely to stall. When you say your car doesn't stay primed, do you mean that the fuel leaks back down the fuel line towards the tank? If so you have a leak on your carby. It is most likely the tuning pin assembly. If you can move the fuel nozzle around it is probably leaking. Tighten it up. I have had this problem a couple of times, it seems to vibrate loose, but don't thread lock this as you will gum it up and block the fuel flow.

I am still having problems with the car stalling on desceleration. I have it running and idling perfectly, holds max revs beautifully. But as soon as I decelerate, it stalls. It is also bogging down after about 20-30 seconds somtimes, but not always. I have pulled the entire engine apart, cleaned it and rebuilt it with no leaks at all :confused: . I am stumped on this one.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I found my problem. The engine WAS running too lean. The garket I was using was too thick (the one beetween the engine & manifold). I spoke to some guys in the know and they told me that gasket thickness does have an impact on performance. In my case too thick resulted in a mixture that was too lean, and it also made it much more difficult to tune the engine. I have gone back to a thin piece of cardboard cut out of an office folder. I haven't yet got the tuning perfect, but it is much better and easier to fine tune. I hope to have some time after work one day this week to get it right. Otherwise I will try again on the week end. I have also adjusted the length between the manififold and the pipe. So I will put this back to how I had it and it should all be good, I hope:rolleyes: . I will probably run out of fuel before I get it right though.

My spare parts are in but they are still doing a stocktake so I have to wait a couple of days.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

dicko,
that's what I thought, but I didn't get a chance to play with it much this weekend. :( I was running it the other day and I seem to have melted the clutch shoe open, :( now I need to find some where to order one for less then $25! Oh well, at least it gives me time to clean the car and mabey work on my electric truck! :)

[Falco]

I was looking at tower hobbies for clutch shoes for the dt-10, and couldn't find anything that would specificly (sp?) fit. I was thinking about just getting a new clutch assembly and if required, a new flywheel, and advice?

[DCLXVI]

I din't think that Tower sells TT spares...the sell the bike and the mighty EK-4 though...no parts go figure...

I'm going to get what is called a vespel cluch when I get my new engine...I have no idea what it is called in enlish thougt...It's a different material (vespel) and costs more than four times more...it's supposed to be "unwearable" so to speak...

[unknown person]

finally i got my 'stiff' ek-4 spings today and it means stiff. they r stiff as hell (lots of jumping for me and hopefully no more bottoming:D ) ill have to put them to the test later

I dont think i will be able to wheelie cuz the stock servo is a heap of crap or is it just a fault.

Dcl have u got ur new engine yet??

going to put the springs on and tell u the result later(, ill post a result)

Dan

[Falco]

No, tower dosen't have any TT spares :(

I saw some vespel clutch shoes though, just didn't look like they'd fit. I was thinking I would get a different three pin flywheel, and the clutch shoes/bell housing to match, mabey in aluminium?

[unknown person]

Springs are excellent i recomend them. I havent had a chance to do some jumps cuz of typical british weather!!! (rain)(and lots of it)

Falco i have the same problem as you, whenever i de-accelerate the engine stalls, i have checked the carb and thats fine and the the fuel pipe is alright. I did see that there was a leak on the exust pipe (it was leakin fuel!)

Dan

[DCLXVI]

Not gotten the engine yet...10-30 days...I'm hoping around the weekend as I'm going on vacation then... :D

Right now I'm installing a NovaRossi for my cousin in his USA-1...that will scream ;)

[Falco]

Dan,

where about was the leak? I think I'm still getting some "extra" fuel on the car when it was running, but I'm not sure where from.

[DCLXVI]

I have a leak in the block, where the block ends and the piece that sits before the flywheel...I haven't found it neccesaey to do anything about it though...the engine runs great as ever...easy to tune, starts in one or two pulls... :D

[dicko]

I am going to buy the TTR 9223 carbie for the car, it's a lot cheaper than buying a whole new engine and will give top and bottom end tuning.

If your car stalls on desceleration it is too lean. you need to wind the needle out. But do this with very small increments, especially if the car is running fine on all other settings (ie flat out & idling) as it will be pretty close anyway.

If it is the block that is leaking and you are a fussy person like me, it is easy to fix. undo the 4 screws that hold the pull start on (very carefully) and gently and CAREFULLY remove the pull start. Don't rip it off in a hurry or you will have a metre of thin metal spring unwind in your face. Once the pull start is off, place it somewhere and put a weight on it to stop it unwinding if bumped. Then tighten the four screws holding the back plate on. you may want to pull it off completely and clean it and check that the gasket is in good condition. I use threadlock on all these screws as they have come quite loose before. if you have put the back plate on so that it doesn't move when you twist it, it shouldn't leak (as long as your gasket isn't torn). The hardest part here is getting the pull start off without unwinding the spring. It isn't hard to fix though if it does go.

I am ordering my carbie today. Can't wait to get it.

Cheers
Dicko

[dicko]

I ordered my new carbie. should (but won't) be here on Thursday. I don't expect it to arrive until late next week. If I get it this week it will be a bonus.

The stock carbie tends to let fuel keep coming into the carbie when you descelerate while cutting off the air. This floods the engine and it stalls. The carbie I ordered adjusts both fuel and air mixtures together so you can't flood the engine when you descelerate. the part number is 9223 for anyone who is interested. You could put the 0.21 carbie on it to get a bit more rpm out of the engine but you will go through more fuel. but then again fuel is cheap. I intend to put the 0.15 carbie off the dt-10 onto my 0.12 engine in the road car.:D

The clutch part number you want for the TTR DT-10 is PD 0140. This is the one I have been using and have had no problems with. E hobbies have it for $4.99 U.S. which is more than I pay for it here down under. They are at www.ehobbies.com. The original one I had melted into 1 piece as well. It wasn't a pretty sight or smell.

Dan,

I got my car as an ARTR, so I put my own fm radio and servos in it. I use a relatively stock, high speed low torque servo on the throttle, and a digital metal geared high torque servo on the stearing. It works well. I have also put a fail safe on the throttle and have that set to full brake, just in case of emergencies (there have been a couple of times it has saved the car).

Cheers
Dicko.

[unknown person]

Falco, im getting the leaks on the fuel tank:confused: i dont have foggyest how its getting there cuz i usally run about half a tank of nitro:confused: :confused: Weird

dicko, my stock steering servo is.....well, it glitches now and again which is annoy but no one else is running on the same frequency as me (i have checked). I think ill just change the throttle servo. (i have tryed doing some wheelies but failed misrebly every time (the car just shoots down the road/track

Dan

[unknown person]

on top of the fuel tank if u want to know in more detail

Man i really want to bash but its typical engish weather again (windy and rainy) so i cant dammit

[DCLXVI]

If it is the block that is leaking and you are a fussy person like me, it is easy to fix. undo the 4 screws that hold the pull start on (very carefully) and gently and CAREFULLY remove the pull start. Don't rip it off in a hurry or you will have a metre of thin metal spring unwind in your face. Once the pull start is off, place it somewhere and put a weight on it to stop it unwinding if bumped. Then tighten the four screws holding the back plate on. you may want to pull it off completely and clean it and check that the gasket is in good condition. I use threadlock on all these screws as they have come quite loose before. if you have put the back plate on so that it doesn't move when you twist it, it shouldn't leak (as long as your gasket isn't torn). The hardest part here is getting the pull start off without unwinding the spring. It isn't hard to fix though if it does go.

Mine leaks at the other end...by the flywheel...

And about the servos...the stock HiTec 303 servos won't hold up for long...I've replaced three I think...they are just not sturdy enough...I'm using a HiTec 545 for steering and I have orderd a 525 to use with the throttle...

/DCLXVI

[shelter]

Hi all, new DT-10 owner here.

I've read this thread from the begining and it contained some useful information so I guess it was worth it, but it sure took some time. :)
Too bad I'm not into all this technical engine/car type of english so sometimes it's kinda hard to get what you're talking about.

I can't run my car for some weeks because the reciever seems to have given up on me and I have to send it in (warranty I hope), if i start the engine, the car vibrates a bit and the reciever doesn't like that and makes the servos live their own lives. If i put the receiver next to the car, it works fine.

You guys seem to enjoy wrecking your cars too, all you do is break stuff. :)

Take it easy out there!

PS.
DCL, check your e-mail, I mailed you a few questions I had.

[unknown person]

oh dear o dear o dear

I was changing the pipe that i found in my dads box of goodies (its got everything you can think of) and i found a pipe atleast 12.5cm long (5 inches long for you imperial folks). I plonked it on and started the car up and it was a well nice deep noise but the engine suddenly went onto full throttle :eek: luckily i caught it and cut the fuel from the engine.(i had the servo on idle, if you come to a conclusion). So, i took that off and put the original pipe back on and i started it up again and it went onto full throttle with the servo on idle!!!:eek: :confused: :( Oh dear

please help me/ email me for tips and advice

Dan

p.s Shelter you will experiance alot more problems than that and i can ashore you that now. Watch the battery holder, it gave me alot of greif so i changed it.

[DCLXVI]

Shelter, check your e-mail...

Unknown : I have NO idea...check your carb and see if it is fully closed...check the mainfold seal to see if it is broken, other than that I can't really see what has happend...

:confused:

[shelter]

Originally posted by unknown person
p.s Shelter you will experiance alot more problems than that and i can ashore you that now. Watch the battery holder, it gave me alot of greif so i changed it.

What kind of problems did you experience? So I know what to look for. :)

Btw, the full throttle thing you experienced sure was weird. But just look at the most obvious stuff first. The carb, the receiver/transmitter, the wiring etc.
It's good to put the car on something so the rear wheels are in the air, atleast when you have been fiddling around with the car, that way you won't cause any disasters. I know it might sound a bit lame but better safe than sorry. :)

PS.
DCL, thanks again for your answers.

[shelter]

Hey, btw...

Do you guys use airfilter oil?

[unknown person]

Shelter: I have checked my wirers,carb the only thing i havent checked is the gasket from the manifold!!:confused: even though i put a new one on

Problems to look out for: The main spur gear is a pain in the arse every now and then it will decide to strip which is annoying when you are having a good time bashing, it happened to me at the local bmx track, i was going over an 8 foot jump (with a landing ramp of course!) and i put the stick flat out and all i could see was a gert puff of smoke coming from the exust which was funny but on closer inspection a stripped gear.

Battery holder; that was a bugger to stay in on fast runs. It would slide out of the tie wrap which resulted to all 4 batterys fly all over the place and the engine on full power (ive mensioned this in a previous post) and that could have been fatal, it scared me actually because it shot off out of site and found it upside down next to a subaru (seriously) on full revs.

Umm what else ahh glue the wheels cuz mine came off on the third run up the park in long grass and it took ages to find but found it.

the body posts are a heap of cr*p if you flip it and land it on its back the back ones break!(i know it sounds obvious but its happened to me) ive got through 5 sets of those allready!

the steering joint is a pain in the ass aswell. check the slackness of it it and youll find out why. Mines slack as hell so i tryed to tighten it but it made no difference!

Thats all i can think of for now but there is lots more to come yet. If it gets to bad then im going to sell it and get a monster truck (t-maxx/Terra crusher:D /savage 21)due to the amount of upgrades you can get for it, comparing with the dt-10 its a big difference.

Dan

[DCLXVI]

About that battery holder...I only had one incident where it fell out...other than that I works just fine (only problem are it's limited capacity, 4 cells x 1,2 NiMH = 4,8 volt)...

[unknown person]

i got so annoyed with it falling out i changed it to a futaba battery stick which cant move a mm. :)

[unknown person]

29 pages.... another 400+ posts to go until we beat the ek-4 forum

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by shelter
Hey, btw...

Do you guys use airfilter oil?

I just recenlty found some to use... :rolleyes:

Again, about the battery-holder...I use electrical tape around mine...I have a hard time getting it out even when I loosen up the zip-tie...

Ohh...and about those darn body posts...I have made that crude roll-cage I talked about earlier...It works like a charm...darn easy to do aswell...basicly it is two peices of solid brass (3 mm) that are bound together almost at the top and are mounted in the top two holes in the diff-casing (the unused holes)...

[unknown person]

thanks to dcl for this

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/remote/dan/

its pics of my car which was probably a before pic, u dont want to see the after pics

[unknown person]

mines tied down with a tie wrap but i have a separate plug for charging the battery so i dont have to go into the receiver and all that sort of hassle.

i dont use airfilter oil because there is some all ready in there i think by the looks of mine or is it somink else. Ideally i want a k&n filter that requires alot of airfilter oil (a gert sachet cmes with it)

[shelter]

Originally posted by unknown person
the steering joint is a pain in the ass aswell. check the slackness of it it and youll find out why. Mines slack as hell so i tryed to tighten it but it made no difference!

DCL fixed that didn't he? Maybe he can post some picture showing what he did?

BTW, if I want to unmount the engine to clean it, it's just to unscrew it and lift it off without any problems? And then just put it back the same way? Does it work or will I run into some gear problems or something like that?

[dicko]

You can take the engine off with out any worries, I do it all the time (about once a week). just remember to put a piece of paper between the bell gear and the spur gear when you put the engine back in. this will give you the right spacing & help stop your gears from stripping. I have yet to strip a spur gear. But I have done a main diff gear and a pinion gear. I haven't broken any body posts as yet either. But I'm sure the time will come.

I use air filter oil on my filter. I also clean the filter frequently and re-apply the oil. But down here in Oz we have HEAPS of dust. So it isn't wise to run the car without oil, let alone without a filter. I also use a button filter instead of the stock one. It is smaller and less cumbersome, and it has never come off.

I haven't had any problems with the battery holder yet either, just put it in a balloon. It will then stick very well.

Dan,

This may sound stupid, but if you have checked to make sure your carby is closed properly and it still peaks at max revs, your mixture is probably far too lean. All you have to do is get the fuel-air mix right and it will run at max revs. So if the barrel in the carb is open only 1-2mm, and the car is running really lean, it will get the right mixture in the piston chamber to rev like mad. But unless you have changed your mix it most likely won't be that. If you have put a thicker gasket on the manifold it may have some effect but I don't think it would do that.

DCL,

I haven't had to fix a leak at the fly wheel end before. Hope your new engine doesn't leak. Sounds good though. I thought I would try a new carby & see how that went. It will be much better for tuning top & bottom end compared to the stock one.

Cheers
Dicko

p.s so much happens while I sleep.

[dicko]

By the way Shelter,

USE THREADLOCK. I can't stress this enough. you will have screws come loose if you don't:eek: and it can get scary.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

I know, I have to get loctite or something.

First time I took the car out for a ride the exhaust got loose. Was a pretty messy sight as it was kinda dusty where I ran it. I didn't expect it to be that dusty. So I had dirt all over the engine and smoke was coming because of the nitro on the engine.

The exhaust pipe gasket (the one between the manifold and the engine) broke too and the hobby shop didn't have one for the moment so I had to go and buy some DIY gasket material. :)
Bought one that should stand 220 degrees C and a pressure of 65 bar. It's almost as thick as the normal type of gasket you put there.

[shelter]

I noticed TRAXXAS had some nice howto's... it's for their cars and engines tho' but some information might be useful.
http://www.traxxas.com/support/howto/trx_howto.htm

Too bad TTR doesn't have that kind of support.

[unknown person]

yes...i should have used loctite when i took the enginge off to clean it and put it back on, because yesterday i just realise i had a screw missing from the engine mount:eek:

Dcl,dicko & shelter:

I have fixed the engine problem. It was the servo trim. It looked fine but when i took the filter off, it was 3mm out!! so i adjusted it so its half a mm. So thats that out the way. Gaskets, i kinda broke mine when i took the manifold off, i must of knocked it on somethink and split it, so i replaced it with castrol instant gasket and it works fine

Ive just run out of fuel!!!! so ill see if i can use some more of me dads heli fuel (he has a moded nexus 30) (im learning to fly it at da mo and its hard as hell) Ill see if i can go to the hobbie shop to day and get some more fuel thinking about it

Here in Britain (anyone else from britain reading this and has a dt-10 please reply to this thread, if u all havent done so):)

hopefully all the probs are fixed for now, (fingers crossed)

Dan

[dicko]

After I lost 3 of the engine mount screws I went out & bought a bag of the Tamiya screws. They are the same thread and have a hex and screwdriver top. Plus they were cheaper and could be purchased in bulk. But I haven't lost any since I have used loctite.

I am running out of fuel fast. I will get some 20% nitrous next. I have been running on 15% so far but I thought I would give 20 a go. That is what the manual reccommends so why not?:D I am going to put the old carby on my 0.12 road car this week end and see how that performs. I can't be bothered mucking around with the DT-10 carby any more until I get the new one. It is too frustrating.

I am currently using a piece of cardboard from a manilla folder as a gasket. It works really well, and is easy to cut to shape. I have pulled it off a few times and it is still in one piece and doesn't leak:cool: I can't believe TTR don't sell them seperately:rolleyes: they only sell them with the whole pipe assembly. But they are easy to make anyway, so I'm not too fussed.

I noticed that the ball joints on the front tie rods had come loose today. I hadn't thought about them before. Every screw that goes into metal on the car has now got a coat of loctite. I am not chancing it:rolleyes: once is enough.

Have fun. Good to see some posts before I get to work in the morning & see a page or more. I should check in the evenings more often.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

After I lost 3 of the engine mount screws I went out & bought a bag of the Tamiya screws. They are the same thread and have a hex and screwdriver top. Plus they were cheaper and could be purchased in bulk. But I haven't lost any since I have used loctite.

I am running out of fuel fast. I will get some 20% nitrous next. I have been running on 15% so far but I thought I would give 20 a go. That is what the manual reccommends so why not?:D I am going to put the old carby on my 0.12 road car this week end and see how that performs. I can't be bothered mucking around with the DT-10 carby any more until I get the new one. It is too frustrating.

I am currently using a piece of cardboard from a manilla folder as a gasket. It works really well, and is easy to cut to shape. I have pulled it off a few times and it is still in one piece and doesn't leak:cool: I can't believe TTR don't sell them seperately:rolleyes: they only sell them with the whole pipe assembly. But they are easy to make anyway, so I'm not too fussed.

I noticed that the ball joints on the front tie rods had come loose today. I hadn't thought about them before. Every screw that goes into metal on the car has now got a coat of loctite. I am not chancing it:rolleyes: once is enough.

Have fun. Good to see some posts before I get to work in the morning & see a page or more. I should check in the evenings more often.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

So, Tamiya screws fix, good cause I've striped the heads of my engine mount screws, and I prefer hex anyway.

I think I'm going to order a new clutch shoe (or two) soon, as well as the ONFA clutch kit from tower. I forgot to chect yesterday when I was cleaning the car, it a 15 tooth bell housing right? I might pick up a new one of those too, my has some nice heat damage from the melted clutch shoe.

LMK how the clutch upgrade goes, it's would be nise to high and low end adjustments (assuming I could set them up right! :)). Any carb with a rotor adj. shoud fit/work right?

I'm thinking about putting in an HPI or O.S. engine down the road, but i'm not sure yet... Duratrax have a .18 engine that could be nice too...:D

locktight is your friend!!!!!

[Falco]

I forget (yes that happens alot :D) if anyone asked about this or not, is there a 2 speed tranny that will fit in the DT-10?

[Falco]

I'm not 100% sure, but I was comparing the DT-10 dogbones to my electric truck, and the seem to be the same (DT-10's are offset 90 deg. :confused:). If your intrested in updrading, any dogbones or CVD that will fit HPI's electric RS4 MT should fit the Dt-10. MIP makes a shiny CVD (http://www.miponline.com/CVDhpi.html) for about $40 USD. They also make CVD for TT, but not specificily the DT-10.

that is all, cary on

[shelter]

Will threadlock work instead of loctite? It's much cheaper...
http://www.biltema.se/Archive/Product_images/36/Large/36-2774_l.jpg

[unknown person]

as long as it says 'threadlock' on the tube them it should be fine lol

ill have to look into those tamiya hex heads. Im sure ive got some of the same kind in my r/c box (of goodies) somewhere

Im going to ty and put that pipe back on that i mensioned in an earler post, even though its a .60 size heli pipe:D its going to sound noisy and deep:D :D

Has anyone seen or have an offical Dt-10 upgrades cuz i havent seen any on the market anywhere so i have been buying eb-4 and ek-4 upgrades 4 it (imagine the new ek-4 engine in the dt-10, It would break:p lol and have amazing power to weight ratio!!!)

Dan

[DCLXVI]

The diff I bought are an upgrade as it is made in steel instead of cast iron...I have seen some uppgrades but that was like shocks and ball-bearings...

[dicko]

You will need a thread lock or loctite that will be able to stand high temperatures for the engine parts (ie. the exhaust manifold & body mount screws) but for the rest of the body parts it won't make a difference.

Dan you will probably loose some performance with that huge pipe. You won't get enough back pressure on your piston and will probably notice it most under acceleration.

DCL, are you sure it is steel? Mine is still aluminium but it is of a higher grade. If it is steel where did you get it? I want one. I will see what the one I ordered is made out of when I get it. They are still unpacking all the boxes that come in over their stocktake. I should hopefully get it today. I might ring up & check a little later. The new carby should be in today too, but I won't hold my breath on that.

Their is a company that makes hop up options for TTR, but I can't remember their name. I was looking at their tie rod ends, they are all brightly coloured. But no one stocks them here. Pitty, they looked cool:cool:

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Acually, I'm not sure they are steel...I just assumed they were... :(
They are pretty durable though, no noticable wear yet, on the other hand I've only put like ten tanks through them...wonder how they will hold with the new engine...

There are many parts from other manufacturers you can fit with little or no problem at all...shocks and tie-rod ends are a prime exaple...I have experimented quite abit with the rod ends for the shocks in order to increase the ground-clearance...most of them have the same hole-diameters...and shocks...any shocks of sufficent lenght sould work...(don't get to long of the arms will be lowerd to much)...

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

I noticed that the replacement diff gear looks like it is cut out of billet aluminium but the pinion gear looks like it has been cast and stuck onto the axle. I still want to cut my own pinion gears and diff gears out of billet. But it will be a long time consuming project.

My parts haven't come in. NO SURPRISE;) I have a bet on with my friend about the day they will arrive. I just picked the day after his so I should win:D .

I might fiddle with the old carby on the week end but i doubt it. I tried to put it on the road car last night but there is no way to fix it in position with out drilling it. So I will keep it as a spare.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Sent my receiver in on repair, so I can't run my car. All I can do is wait and maybe clean it a bit.

I have to get one of those OS #8 glowplugs, I'm running the one that came with the car and DCL told me to get an OS #8 instead.
Got to get some nitro fuel too, I'm out, only got fuel for 2 tanks or something.
Considering on buying a failsafe too.
It's just that I have a long way to go if I want to get parts and stuff...

DCLXVI - you know any hobby mailorder in sweden?
I found Soders RC-Hobby AB (http://www.sodersrchobby.com/) but they mostly have plane stuff. So they don't have parts for cars. :(

[DCLXVI]

Shelter : Where do you live?
I think that www.rmf.se does mail-orders...they can be abit cranky in the telephone though...great guys otherwise, I do (almost) all my R/C shopping there...

I suggest getting a Fail-Safe...better sae than sorry... (my GWS FS-1 have saved me from a runaway atleast one time, I was pointing towars a busy street when it "died")...

Dicko : I can't say that I think that the pinion gear looks like cast...I think it looks loke it were cut, there are circular marks on the "non-gear" side of it...altough...I'm not that in-to that stuff as you seem to be....

/DCLXVI

[shelter]

I live in Härnösand but I'm in Sundsvall quite often and that's where I can get some RC stuff. Not sure how much they got, I've only shopped there once.
They don't have a pure hobby shop in Sundsvall, it's more like a hobby deparment in a toy store.

[unknown person]

Sweden sounds cool. I was running my car around today and i was givin it some stick up and down the street that i live and the tranny didnt seem right. It was making noises like it was rubbing against something and when u turn the wheels the main gear doesnt turn with it:confused: . Is this normal, Smoke comes out the bottom of the air filter:eek: and top sometimes.

I have half a tnk of car fuel left!! looks like its onto the heli fuel!

ne1 here from uk,if so where abouts

Dan

[dicko]

The teeth on the pinion gear I got have what looks like bubbles on the wider end. They would still file the ends down, but the teeth aren't as smooth as they should be if they were cut.

Is the OS #8 a good plug for the dt-10? I have been trying to find one tht works well. I have one but I don't know what it is. If the OS#8 is good I'll get a couple.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I just picked up my spare pinion gear, diff gear, clutch, rear bulk head and screws. Now I can look at measuring them up to make some spares out of billet aluminium. The spur gear, drive cups and carby have arrived but they are at the end of a 56 box list to be sorted and recieved by the shop. So I will hopefully be able to pick them up next week. I really only wanted the carby, but those are the breaks.

The pinion gear is better than the last one I ordered, but it still has chips or bubbles on the teath. I think I will work on that one first.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

I called the "hobby shop" today and they had OS #8 glowplugs, they also had QwikFire F7 glowplugs.
And they had the GWS FS-1 failsafe. So I have to go there some day and buy those things, I don't really have any use for any of them right now since I don't have the receiver.

Last time I was there I bought the "racing box" from kyosho containing some misc screws etc. I also bought a 5 way wrench and some after run oil.

[DCLXVI]

I got a paper in the mail today..."You have stuff from USA waiting" MY OS ENGINE HAS ARRIVED!!! :D

[shelter]

How much did the shipping+custom+VAT cost?
If it doesn't get too expensive I might order from TowerHobbies sometime.

[dicko]

I am still waiting for my carbie.:( hope it gets here soon.

I didn't get the car out on the week end.

Cheers
Dicko

[dicko]

It's here. I just picked up the carbie. It is a lot better than the stock one. No plastic parts except for the lever, even the fuel nipple is metal. I can't wait to put it on and tune it in:D gold anodizing on the mixture screw and no defects at all. Now this thing looks spectacular. Hope it works as well as it looks;) . I know what I am doing tonight.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Hehe...good for you dicko... :)

On a simmilar note I'm off to pick-up my tower hobbies shippment... :D

/DCLXVI

[dicko]

Hope to see some photos of that engine in the car soon. How about a video when you have it up & running. I need to get a digital camera someday.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I'll have to wait for a new engine mount as there are no pull-start on my new engine...

[shelter]

I called the repair company up and asked about my receiver. They found the problem, it was the crystal that had become sensitive to vibrations. So they changed that for me and promised I would get the receiver tomorrow.

So soon I get to smell the *cough*wonderful*cough*smell*cough*of*cough*nitro again. :)

But some small problems remain, soon out of fuel and no new glowplug yet. :eek:

DCLXVI:
So you have to use a starterbox now or?

BTW, You didn't answer my question on how much the shipping+vat+customs cost?!

[DCLXVI]

Sorry about that...

Shipping ~ 35 USD (varies)
VAT = 0 USD
Custom = 0 USD

:D

Keep it under about 300 USD and you sould do fine...

[dicko]

I fitted the new carbie last night. I had to adjust the throttle & the brakes but it only took about 10 minutes to get it right. I started it up in my hobby room and it idled for a while:D . I stank the room out & had to get the exhaust fan cranking to clear it out:cool: . It was allready dark so hopefully I will get the chance to have a bit of a play tonight, but the weather looks pretty bad, rain & windy today. I might go round to my friends house and run it in his shed. It is huge in there, plus the jumps are still set up from last time:D

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Sounds nice...I have gotten my tower hobbies things now...all I need are the damned starter box (and some otehr things I HOPE that my LHS has lying around)...then it's off to the land of OS :D

I fitted my new pipe and it sure sounds and runs sweet...had to richen the mixture some for the engine to run well...seems it has to run abit rich to not overheat but it could be the weather also...

I've made up my mind not to put any more money into my DT-10, no more hop-ups anyway (one ore two sets of tires mabey and a new body perhaps)...I just don't see the point...

Oh, and btw dicko...the more expensive carbs are made of teflon...just so you'll know...

Some pics of the new stuff...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_226.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_228.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_229.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_233.jpg

[dicko]

Those tyres look like they would grip pretty well on loose dirt, and not wear out too quick. How soft is the rubber? I may have to look into them. The engine & pipe look pretty cool. What else can you spend on your DT-10 anyway? You have upgraded most of it all ready. I have found some aluminium shocks designed for stadium trucks on a car at the local store. I don't know the part number yet but I will be looking into it soon. They look very well built and the guy said he could order them, in any time I wanted them. I guess they will cost a bit but they look like they would be worth it.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

The shocks are still uppgradeable...but I refuse to spend 70-100 USD on shocks...I don't need them...the stockers are working just fine...

The tires are HPI Yokohama GeoLandar...the rubber seems abit soft but after running a few tanks, abusing them on asphalt, grass and gravel they showed no wear...

[Falco]

well, I finally broke down and ordered a clutch shoe, 2 actually, for about $4.50 US each, plus shipping, tax, etc. :mad:

still thinking about getting that onfa 3-shoe clutch kit, bit I still don't know if it will fit. I haven't heard back from onfa, and all tower says is that it will work on pico style engines, which is a bit vauge for a first-timer like me.

stupid question time: if i replace the bell housing with one that has more or less teeth, will it change my speed, and which way? I believe more teeth and the stock spur gear should make it go faster, but I'm not 100% sure

[DCLXVI]

Yes, it will make it go faster...
Why bother putting on a 3-peice cluch...the stock cluch works just fine for me...and I belive some others. But didn't you have the white cluch? If you buy a new one you should get the black one...

[unknown person]

hi all

Dcl, Still saving for the land of os or maybe even xtm!!, i like the new pipe and tyres, i wonder of losi truck tyres will fit they look good. Have u changed the shock tower screws. I need to cuz mine r all bent so i am going to replace them wid hex heads, like the engine ones on mine. p.s what did u do to get the pics on to here?

Quick question: When i run the car on idle (lowest it will go before it cuts out) the tranny is v loose and the car rolls along? Slowly though:rolleyes what can i do. I have tightened the drive shaft connections and checked the brake pads

Dan

p.s im out of fuel, cant use me dads heli fuel because it is not recommended for it

[unknown person]

Wow i was browsing to whole forum and there used to be loads of ppl who had this truck and they have all disappeared, Pistole, where did he go or dcl are u still in touch with him, confuzed and Khemical, i used to live down the road from them in heat waved britain at the moment As i am writing this its about 28 degrees outside:D and v sunny even though its half 8 here

Every1 COME BACK

[DCLXVI]

Dcl, Still saving for the land of os or maybe even xtm!!
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_230.JPG

i like the new pipe and tyres, i wonder of losi truck tyres will fit they look good.

Thanks, I think so to :)

i wonder of losi truck tyres will fit they look good

*All* 2,2" truck tires sould mount...you have all the pro-line tires to choose from aswell...If you mean rims, thats harder...sould be doable though...

Have u changed the shock tower screws.

I think I have replaced one of them or so...I had the problem with them bending early on but managed to uppgrade to metallic spacers with follow (as usual) a spare...can't seem to remember witch though...

p.s what did u do to get the pics on to here?

I have put them on my web-server...

Quick question: When i run the car on idle (lowest it will go before it cuts out) the tranny is v loose and the car rolls along? Slowly though:rolleyes what can i do. I have tightened the drive shaft connections and checked the brake pads

Sounds like the cluch or the cluch-springs...hard to tell though...

[Falco]

DCL,
yes, i did have the original white clutch shoe, untill it melted and turned brown :(

I only reason I was looking at the 3 piece clutch b/c it could allow for upgrading to aluminimun shoes, and if i melt those, I'm in toruble! :D

are you running your new pipe with the stock manifold, or the one that came with it?

[shelter]

Hi all again.

Went and bought some stuff today.
* One charger for the RX and TX. I couldn't stand recharging 4 batteries at a time. :)
* Some fuel, 10% nitro, Model Technics.
* GWS FS-1 Failsafe, which I had trouble fitting. The connector didn't match the socket on my receiver.
DCLXVI, I mailed you about this one because you have the same failsafe.
* Some threadlock.
* 1m fuel tubing. Always good to have some lying around.
* Model Technics - Firepower F7 glowplug, they didn't have the OS #8 one so I bought this instead, I hope it's good.

I forgot to buy a fuelfilter tho', don't know how many of you that have one, but I guess it's standard accessories?

No racing today tho', it got too late, the time flew away.

[dicko]

I am off today to buy a better battery and a flight panel to use to warm the glow plug. I was trying to tune the new carbie in last night and my glow battery went flat. So my friend pulled out his flight box and we used the battery on that:) no problems and it lasts for ever. You can then plug a starter box into that aswell.

I didn't manage to get the carbie tuned in yet, but it is close. The knot I tied on the pullstart didn't have a long enough tail and it came undone. I fixed it and will give it another go tonight. Hopefully with a new battery and starter panel.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Originally posted by dicko
The knot I tied on the pullstart didn't have a long enough tail and it came undone.

Put some superglue or something on that knot... will prevent things like that.
It was a tip I got at the Hobby Shop where I bought my car.

[shelter]

I installed the new glowplug in the car today and fixed some other things aswell.. but I ran into some trouble, the idle is WAAAAAAAY too high... not sure how to fix that. It makes the car run by itself on idle, I almost burnt something in the gearbox because of that (smoke).
I don't know how to fix it either. Any ideas are welcome.

I've messed around with the idle screw but as it is now I can't get it any further back because then I would engage the brakes.
I'm really lost in the IDLE adjusting department. I mean, one end on the throttle linkage is on the carbie and the other end is on the servo. So if I find a nice spot that I want to lock the IDLE on then I have to move the servo arm too. So the carbie needs to be closed more than it its.. but then the brakes engages as I mentioned earlier.

Did that make any sense? No? That's what I thought... :confused:

[shelter]

Well... looks like I fixed my problem more or less, I started to mess around with the yellow thingies on the throttle linkage (the ones holding the spring, don't know what they're called). I got a nice idle now but instead the carbourator won't open fully if I give it full throttle, just almost.
I guess I can adjust that a bit later, I hope.

Lot's of post by me today... :)
It's not easy being a nitro car newbie and no one around which can help me out. Heh...

[DCLXVI]

Yeah...that can be tricky...hard to help someone over the net aswell... :(

I think that the solution to your problem would involve adjusting ALL the thottle/break linkage...even the break linkages...(it's also possible to adjust the throttle-arm position)

[Falco]

Originally posted by shelter

It's not easy being a nitro car newbie and no one around which can help me out. Heh...

no kidding!

I almost picked up a new engine, an AE .15 pull start for RC10GT for $50.00 US on e-bay (item # 3140763816 if anyone's intrested, 10 hours left), but desided against it, it's not the engine i want anyway. Does anyone have an opinion or advice on HPI's .15 SS engine? or a decent carb with high and low speed adjustments that will fit the stock TT engine.

one last question, what's the purpose/bennifet of a boost?

[DCLXVI]

I'm 95-98% sure that the AE RTR .15 engine are the same as the PRO15BX, just a different carb...(they share the air-filter and the cooling-fins looks the same, hard to judge on the block as most of them seem like but...)...

[Falco]

that wouldn't suprise me, I've been told that AE and TT are the basicly the same. Keeping that in mind, i was also looking at an AE stealth gearbox...

[unknown person]

Shelter,
u have had the same prob as me but i accidently put the throttle linkage toooo high when i was tryin a futaba ultra high torque servo (one i found lying about in the goodie box) and on idle it shot off (lucky i was holding it (the 'rear' end))

Dcl,
I have to ticket to o.s land:D :D :D My dad has an aeroplane (model) engine, i think... well it says .46 on it and its only been used once because wecrashed the plane:( but it was funny to watch:p

Still out of fuel :( :mad: :confused: :eek: -sorry that was over the top (we english would say ott)

Dan

[shelter]

It's me again.. :)

As I said the car run fine now, except that it stalls sometimes, not very often tho'.. after I've been driving around some and returning to IDLE, it's the mixture I guess, I just haven't bothered with it.
I don't know if it's too lean or too high.

Today's story:
I lost the rear wheel after half a tank during today's first real run, not knowing how it's supposed to be I just put the wheel back but the car didn't run... Yeah, you guessed right, the "wheel pin" was gone... went home, my dad made a new one for me. Then I realized that I had forgotten my radio... so I went back to get it and drove some more then I went home. :)
The *beep* battery pack fell off too... I also have a problem with it (like unknown person or who ever it was), it really wants to fall off.
It's kind of amusing that when you think you checked everything something ALWAYS tend to happen anyway.

BTW, I fixed the failsafe connector, it's working fine now.

Cheers! And remember, drive safely. :)

[unknown person]

Sorry for that i was meant to say i have 'a' ticket to o.s land not some stupid gobbledygook (ha haa what a funny word)

[unknown person]

That *beep* (i agree with u on that) battery would come out some day. i fixed it by putting a futaba battery stick in there it can move a mmmm lol

[unknown person]

i want to fun my car but i have no fuel and second, we britons have been in a 4 day heat wave so far and its hot. So hot i went to the beach. Couldnt take me car :mad: :mad: so i took my big traction kite (4.9 square meters) too big to count in inches

[DCLXVI]

As I said...put some electrical tape around the batt-box and you won't have the problem with it falling of...

/DCLXVI

[shelter]

Originally posted by unknown person
i want to fun my car but i have no fuel and second, we britons have been in a 4 day heat wave so far and its hot. So hot i went to the beach. Couldnt take me car :mad: :mad: so i took my big traction kite (4.9 square meters) too big to count in inches

Good for you, it's mostly raining in England anyway. So some sun should do you good. :D


Originally posted by DCLXVI
As I said...put some electrical tape around the batt-box and you won't have the problem with it falling of...

/DCLXVI


Done that now, I had major problems getting it there instead, but now it wont move... I hope.... :)

Here's a pic of the car...
http://wilderness.concepts.nl/~shelter/DT-10.jpg

Unfortunately you can't see the failsafe, it's in the plastic bag.
I've put a "mat" under the plastic bag to get rid of some of the vibration.

[dicko]

There is an idle screw on your carby. it is the one opposite the mixture screw. If youn wind it in it prevents the barrel from closing all the way. Try to fiddle with that to adjust your idle speed. That is what it is there for. The TTR 9223 carbie is excellent for the pro 15 engine. It has a needle for idle adjustment and is much better than the stock one that comes out on the DT-10. I am still in the process of fine tuning mine. Once the idle needle is set you never have to adjust it again, just the mixture screw. The idle pin stops the problem I had with the engine stalling on desceleration as it adjusts the fuel and air mixture together, instead of just reducing the air.

I got the flight panel and big 12v battery yesterday, it is so easy to start and it lasts for an extrtemely long time. I am building a box to put all my gear in this week end. should be good.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Originally posted by dicko
The TTR 9223 carbie is excellent for the pro 15 engine. It has a needle for idle adjustment and is much better than the stock one that comes out on the DT-10.

I checked it out on the web... it was a bit expensive. But that's the way it is if you're into this hobby.
The price in sweden is 356 SEK (43,34 USD) (26,77 GBP).

I can live with the original carbie for now. :)

[shelter]

Took the car out today... here's the aftermath:
http://wilderness.concepts.nl/~shelter/DT-10_dirty.jpg

Time for some cleaning don't you think? :)
I'm gonna remove the engine today so I can clean it and so I can clean under the engine properly too. It wasn't that hard to remove it and get it back, right?

BTW, today's my birthday, I turn 25... if you find that intresting. :)

[DCLXVI]

Congrats (I have one month and ten days to go to 25)...

Be careful when you put the engine back...bad shimming between the cluch gear and the main gear aren't any good for the main gear... (I've stripped atleast 3 or 4)...

[Falco]

Happy Birthday!! (hit 25 about 8 months ago myself)

[unknown person]

Dammit im only 14! i hit 15 in october

Car still not in action

[dicko]

All you youngsters:p i turn 27 on the 1st of january:rolleyes: . The 9223 carbie was expensive, but well worth it.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

No wonder I couldn't tune my new carbie in:rolleyes: . The old carbie couldn't tune the high & low ends properly, so it was running leanish at the high end. Add to this a worn bearing on the crankshaft which in turn caused the mixture to be even leaner. The fuel was draining out of this worn bearing and air was also leaking in when running. If your engine is leaking badly here, fix it.

The result :

A worn piston and piston sleave. This let the fuel drain straight back down to the bottom of the engine when the engine warmed up and the oil became thin. That is why it was hard (wouldn't)start second time round.

It is now in the shop waiting on spares and maintenance. :(

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

I took her (the car :)) out today, the engine looked as good as new, the sun was shining, I started the engine and started to race. She ran better than ever today, maybe the engine was happy because I cleaned it... :)

Only issues I have left is the carbie not opening fully (just almost) on full throttle and that the engine tend to die on me after I get the *beep* body on. I have to do something about that.

Any ideas on how to fix the body problem are welcome.
I'm thinking about cutting a hole on top of the body (roof) so I can access the pullstart and glowplug easily. Not sure if it's possible tho', I mean if I cut the hole and I can't start the car that way I have a destroyed body more or less..

Another thing I noticed, it feels like the car eats more fuel when IDLE than when it's racing around.

BTW, Sorry to hear about your engine problems dicko... I hope you get them resolved asap.

PS.
I let my girlfriend drive some today, she had fun but she had some problems steering it. The car almost flipped once after she accidently crossed some grass at high speed (we were racing on tarmac). Luckily nothing happend and I guess I can let her drive again. :)

[DCLXVI]

Hey shelter...does your GF have any friends? ;)

On a more seriouse note...I have a tip on my home page making it easier to refuel (Info/DT-10, and theres a lime on mods I think)...

Problem are that is somewhat fragile...won't take a roll...but again...my body posts won't either...

[shelter]

You mean this?
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/html/info_dt-10_bodypost.htm

That's basically the same as putting the body on, you still have to mess around with the antenna and stuff. Besides, maintaince is harder that way, the body will always be in the way.

[DCLXVI]

It's sure is easyier to put the body on...you'll only have to worry about one clip and the antenna are easy enough...just make a larger hole in the roof...also, the body won't be in the way when repairing ect...it's still secured the same way in the rear...it's just that the posts are bendable...

[unknown person]

Dcl ill have to try that cuz ive got thru 5 pairs of body posts already!

If no one minds me asking how much did they get there cars for. I got mine for £240 at LHS ($370 & dunno about SEK i worked it out at about 2,000SEK:confused: :eek: ) this come with radio gear and fuel.

Still havent got any fuel but us britions r still in a 38+ degrees c heat wave :D (vvvvvvvvvv hot)

[DCLXVI]

Only problem with my mod are that it breaks somewhat easier than the stock...on the other hand...2 cm of fuel line won't cost you nearly as much as a new body post... (the fuel-line tends to snap)...

[shelter]

Originally posted by unknown person

If no one minds me asking how much did they get there cars for. I got mine for £240 at LHS ($370 & dunno about SEK i worked it out at about 2,000SEK:confused: :eek: ) this come with radio gear and fuel.

I bought my car for £224 (2995 SEK) , the price included a fuel bottle and fuel. So it was a nice deal.

BTW, is it just me or does the car go faster after awhile? It sure felt like it was faster today but I don't know. :)

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by shelter
I bought my car for £224 (2995 SEK) , the price included a fuel bottle and fuel. So it was a nice deal.

BTW, is it just me or does the car go faster after awhile? It sure felt like it was faster today but I don't know. :)

I got mine for 3300,- can't be botherd to calculate that into pounds...

Shelter, I have felt the sameting to...I think that may have to do wih inconsistancy in the drive-line...

[shelter]

Now it will go faster for sure, fixed my carbie settings. I think I have set it to a nice idle now and the carbie will open up just fine at full throttle.

Don't have so much left to fix now (at least not until I break something).
I might give the toe-in adjustment a try but I have no idea how to set it. Now my front wheels look like this (seen from above):

|----|

I guess that's no good, I know it's been discussed before but as I said, I don't know how much the toe in and stuff should be and I don't really know WHAT to adjust to fix the toe-in.
A picture would be nice, anyone? :)

[DCLXVI]

This is not a pic of the DT-10 but it is the exact same placement and adjustment...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_106.jpg

The ting you have to do is to make the linkage from the steering longer (have to be exact, more or less, on both sides, otherwise you'll lose steering)...that is the part that looks like a metallic screw on the pic and goes out to the "back" of the wheel...hope you understand...
As for how much...I really don't know...I have had a extremly agressive toe-in (like 3-4 deg) but I have recently changed to a more moderate setting (1-2 deg) but I have not had the chance to test it out...

[dicko]

38 degrees? try coming down to our Australian summers. It's not a heatwave unless you crack 35 for a week, and that is a mild heatwave. We had +40 for a while last year, I think 43 or 44 was the hottest day. Most days in summer crack the 33 degree mark. The nitro cars tend to overheat after a tankfull in that weather;)

I have to ring up today to check on the car parts they are ordering to fix my engine. If I can't get that running I now have an older OS 21 that my friends neighbour gave me to get going. I have to make a manifold and buy a tuned pipe for it but that won't be hard. It doesn't have a pullstart though so I am going to put it in an engine mount with a prop on it and borrow a plane starter off a mate. I should be able to run it and get it roughly tuned like that before I put it in a car. I think it will probably kill the DT-10 though. I was thinking of putting it into the road car:D .

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

DCL,

The OS engine you got looks like a side exhaust port, but the engine manifold in the picks has a 180 degree bend (for a rear exhaust port). Did that manifold come with the engine or the pipe? Does the TTR manifold fit on the OS engine or are you intending on using the new manifold? I am interested as I was looking at getting the pullstart version of that engine.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

Originally posted by unknown person
If no one minds me asking how much did they get there cars for. I got mine for £240 at LHS ($370 & dunno about SEK i worked it out at about 2,000SEK:confused: :eek: ) this come with radio gear and fuel.

I paid $150 US for the ARTR version, I forget what I paid for the radio, glow starter and fuel bottle.

Still waiting for my clutch shoe :( Think I'm going to have to verbaly abuse someone!

[dicko]

I paid $440 aussie for the ARTR version. That is a lot more than you paid Falco. If I knew they were cheaper overseas I would have got it on mail order. But the parts here seem to be a little cheaper than overseas, but I have to order most of them in unless I go to the dodgy model shop. I'd rather wait.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

Dicko,

They aren't really that cheep here, I just lucked out on mine. I found it on e-bay, and had the higest bid.:) Normaly they probally go for around $300-$450 US.

Unfortunatly, nobody around here carries any parts (except the gut I got the car off, and he wants way to much, $30+ for the clutch shoe), so I have to order all my parts online and get them shipped. I don't really mind much though...

[shelter]

I'm quite satisfied with how my car run now, haven't done anything about the toe-in yet tho'. And I might fix the shocks to make them a bit stiffer.

BTW, do people race 1:10 offroad nitro cars? It seems like 1:8 buggy and those big ass monster trucks are much more common.

[DCLXVI]

1:10 Off-road nitro are not an official class here in Sweden...1:10 off-road elec are though...not much support though...

[DCLXVI]

Dicko...sorry for not answering earlier but I have not had the time to check...the header (blank) came with the pipe...the stock header fits on the OS engine...

[dicko]

That's excellent. I have a tuned pipe, so all i need is a quote on the OS 15 cv-r with a pull start. I am going in to the hobby shop today to try to get a manifold and pipe for the .21 I was given. It is an old engine but I think the Exhaust pipe should still be a current size (the engine was built in the mid to late 80s, but it still in excellent condition). I hope they have something in stock. I may as well pick up a new glo plug for it while I am there, and an engine mount. This could get expensive. Why are all my hobbies/sports so expensive?

Prices seem to vary considerably. I know that the rtr version of the car would be less here in Australia than the 240 pounds Dan paid in England. That translates to about $720 Aussie, when it is closer to $600. A clutch shoe here in Australia goes for $7, which is about $3.50 U.S.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I got a quote on the OS 15CV-RX, which is the pull start one, with the barrel carb and it will be $310 Australian, thats roughly $185 U.S. I think I will save up for one of them. I get my tax done tomorrow so I should get a nice little cheque from the government. Hopefully it will cover the engine.

The parts to fix up the TTR engine are on their way. So I should hopefully have that up & running by next week end.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

I ordered some QwikFire 10% fuel (4L), so it'll last for a while, I doubt I will need to buy more fuel this year. The autum is closing in here in sweden and stuff so it'll be less racing for me.
I also ordered a fuel filter and an OS #8 glowplug as a spare.

BTW, there was some discussion before about 30W and 40W oil. If I want an allround car (tarmac, offroad, grass etc.), what's the best oil to put in the shocks?

[DCLXVI]

40w-50w I would think...I'm running 40 but that still feels abit weak...

[unknown person]

try 50w then:) or get new shocks that are stiffer, thats what i did and the shocks r fine

Thank god the forums are back up,

[DCLXVI]

The shocks on the DT-10 are acually quite good...there this thing about the front springt though ;) Get new springs and fill'em up with 50w... I run 40w now, with one-hole membrane (I think that there are two hols in the stock membrane) and stiff kyosho spring, havent tested but I'm quite certain that it will work good...

Anyway...I have the OS engine mounted waiting for the starter box...sould be here come monday... :)

Also these HPI are really good...again, I have not tested them much but they sure are all-round :)

[shelter]

DCLXVI, what brand/type of oil should I get then? Any hints?
And how much oil should the shocks contain?

[dicko]

I run 30W oil with a single hole membrane in the stock shox. I find this really good for off road and the dirt track I drive on. But it comes down to personal choice. Tyre choice will also affect the driving characteristics and shock setup. If you have thin walled tyres that are easily compressed, you can run stiffer shox as the tyres will absorb a lot of the smaller impacts. If you run thick walled stiff tyres the shox should be set a bit softer for off road to stop the car bouncing and bucking over the bumpy surface. You can either do this by using a different number of holes in the spacer (more for softer, faster compression & rebound or less for slower compression & rebound) the oil weight (thicker heavier weight oil slows the compression & rebound rates and the opposite for lighter oils) or spring weight or tension. You can put some of the spacers in on the shox to shorten the spring and give you a stiffer shock setting or get new heavier springs that will give you a stiffer setting. If you put some spacers in and like that you would be better off in the long run getting new stiffer springs that are as long as the original ones. If you shorten the spring by putting spacers in, the top end of the shock movement will be much stiffer, but if you get the stiffer springs the shock travel will be relatively fluid the whole way through with some ramping up at the top of the movement to help prevent bottoming out. All in all there are heaps of different things you can try. I would start off by putting the single hole spacers and heavier oil. If you still bottom out try the thicker spacers. It is a matter of trial and error to find out what you like and don't like. I have set my car up to keep the wheels on the ground over the bumpy type of terrain. If I drive it on the road I put a few extra spacers on the springs to stifen them up as it is easier and quicker than pulling the shox apart and changing oil and membranes.

I do change the shock oil on a regular basis, when it turns grey/brown it has been in there too long. You will also notice that they become easier to compress when the oil is worn out.

Hope this helps. If you want a more detailed explanation I can give you one but this should be enough to work with to get a setting you like.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Woha... that's some writeup you made. I think I got everything except the "single hole spacers" part.
I only got the extra "spacers" that came with the car.

[dicko]

There are round discs with holes in them that connect to the Stanchion (push rod) inside the shock. You can swap these for discs with more or less holes. As the stanchion moves up & down the oil has to pass through these holes, the more holes the easier for the oil to move through & the less stiff the shock. The thinner the oil is, the easier it is to move through these holes and you get the same effect as more holes. The spacers are put at the top of the shock (on the outside) to compress the spring and stiffen up the spring. These should only be used if your car sags a lot (by sag I mean the level the shocks sit at when the car is on the ground compared to when you lift it off the ground and let the shocks fully extend). If the shocks compress a lot under the cars own weight when sitting on the ground you can put in a spacer to help lift the car up. You will want some sag so that when the car goes over a dip the wheel will stay on the ground and not drop away suddenly. If you have to put the large spacers in you may as well get new stiffer springs as compressing the spring reduces the quality of the shocks motion. The amount of sag is different for different driving styles and terrains. Off road generally has more sag while on road will have less. It's entirely up to you.

Cheers
& have fun fiddling, it is a bit of a personal thing but I enjoy fiddling with shox to get them right. I have compression, rebound and spring tension dials on my mountain bikes to play with. A fair bit more complicated but very important in the Downhill scene.

Dicko.

[dicko]

Sorry, forgot to mention, If you only got the spring spacers, you can do what I did and super glue the holes up in the existing discs so that only one hole is left. Superglue took a while to set as there was so much, & it took me a couple of days till I got it right. But it is well worth it. The discs in the replacement shox set are much better than the stock ones too. they have holes drilled out of the middle instead if cut out of the side of the discs.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Ok... but the question about the oil still remains. WHAT type of oil should I put into the shocks? I asked the hobby guy in the toystore today and he said that the real shockoils didn't use 30W, 40W etc. definitions, he also said that they were silicon based.

Will normal motoroil do or what do you suggest? :D

[DCLXVI]

Team Associated Silicone Shock oil 40w-60w...depending on what membrane you are using or how stiff you want it to be...

[unknown person]

As I said Replace the stock springs for eb-4 ones. It makes hell of a difference :) ;) :D (they dont bottom out as much)

Im in a spin at the mo cuz im learning to fly a remote control Heli (which is fun) with my dad and i might get my own when i get the knack of it. (This may mean i might have to sel the DT-10:eek: :eek: :confused: ????, or mabye get another on in Monster truck version (saw the new t-maxx in action the other and I WANT ONE they r amazing). Anyway back to DT-10'z, i had to clean mine off a few days ago cuz i went down a very dirty track!!! (it was a laugh). I also rearranged the wiring and fuel/exust tubes cuz they were in the way, so thats all out the way now.

Dan

p.s y r we having such a big debate on stupid shock fluid/oil, i personally if i had to would go for 50w cuz the stock is 40w neway so........................

[shelter]

Well, the debate was good, at least I learned something.
I don't want to buy new shocks, they're a bit expensive, there's nothing wrong with the stock ones, except for the "stiffness".

[dicko]

My last word on shock oils. Yes they do use 30 & 40 weight oils (W stands for weight and is a standard world wide viscosity index at a set temperature, equivalent to API or american petroleum index), I have even seen 15w used (the holes were tiny and the springs were pretty heavy). He doesn't sound like he knows much about shocks or oil properties. The oil I bought from my hobby store had 30W on it in the largest type, and Shock Oil written under that. Yes you can use silicon based oils (and I do), most synthetics will work better than natural oils. If 40w is standard, my shock oil was not of good quality, when I drained the stock oil out (didn't use it for long) it was about the consistency of 20W oil. The more expensive the oil you buy, the longer it will retain its viscosity and dampening effects. They aren't that expensive so maybe buy a couple of bottles of different oil and experiment. you can also blend 30 & 40W together to make 35 if you want something in between, but make sure they are the same brand or they may react to each other. (I am in the petroleum industry, so trust me on this)

Still waiting on my piston & piston sleave to arrive, they may be here so I will take a stroll down to the store in my lunch break. I have been playing with the road car lately, boy it's slow compared to the DT-10, might need to upgrade that engine:D

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Hey dicko, thanks for everything.
So basically it's only hobby shock oil you should put in your shocks and nothing else. Strange that the guy told me that silicon shock oil didn't use the weight to define the oils tho', confuses me a bit but maybe he was wrong. As all I've seen here is that weight defines the oil.

[dicko]

Yep, I'd buy a bottle of 40 & a bottle of 50 weight hobby shock oil if you want really stiff shox & are only running on the road (buy a common brand that you know you can get in future like Tamiya if you are going to mix the oils, but there are better brands). I like 30W with the single hole disc and stock spacers on the springs, but I run mainly off road. You will learn how to adjust the shox and what changes you make affect what part of their performance. I started with little knowledge but learnt it pretty quickly. A good shock set up can improve the performance off road considerably and cornering on road as well.

Have fun & I hope you get it sorted, Aas for me I need to get my car back so that I can just run it. I hope it will be ready by this week end.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Doh, I hate that you can't edit your msgs after 10 mins.

Well, I read what you wrote once again and yes, apparently he was wrong.

BTW, howcome your streetcar is slower than the DT-10? Is it smaller than the DT-10? What engine does it have?
I was under the impression that most street cars were a bit faster.

[dicko]

It has a Tamiya 0.12, all show, no go. If I buy the new OS for the DT-10 I will put the old TTR engine in the TG-10 (the street car). The large diameter wheels on the DT-10 help it go quicker as well. But they don't fit in the space provided on the street car. I like the big wheels:D faster is better. The street car is 4wd which also takes out a little bit of speed but gains more control.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

Well I don't have my clutch shoes yet :mad: , but I put the engine back in the car last night and ran some fuel through just for fun, and I noticed something odd. I don't know if it's the way I have it set up or what, but when I move the throttle servo to wide open, there is still alot of movement left in the carb. Basicly, my carb will not open all the way (stops at abot half way) unless i move it by hand. Is this normal, or is my set up wrong? I can post pics tommorow if it would help.

Thx

[unknown person]

Falco, that does sound strange, how much is alot to u? . I would change the setting of the servo, if that doesnt do anything i would change the hex head thinger doofer on the carb and see if that does nething (probably change the idle a bit).


im getting some new springs for the front of the dt-10 2morrow so i will try and post a pic of it (if can get the pixel res right!)

[Falco]

I get about 45 deg. (gusssing) of movement on the carb, with the current setup, and the servo horn can still move, but the linkage dosen't open the carb anymore. So long as the car is stationary, I can open the carb another 45 deg. (guessing again) or so, and I get fair bit more RPM's (sounds much nicer). It seems like the servo horn is too small, and can't push the linkage stright back as far as it should. I'm just conserned that I'm being robbed of power, buy if anyone elso has this problem, I wont be too upset.

[shelter]

Seems like you have to adjust the whole throttle linkage/brakes/carborator thing. I basically had the same problem as you (I think), it takes a bit of fidlding to get it right.
You might have to move the servoarm position too.

The best thing, is ofcourse to find someone who can help you adjust it all.
But I guess we can help you out aswell. A picture with some arrows and stuff can help much. :) But I don't have my Car here, nor my digital camera (I'm at my gf's place)... so I can't help you much right now.

[dicko]

I agree with shelter. It sounds like you need to set up the whole assembly again, but without seeing it it is difficult to say exactly. I had to get a longer servo arm and bend the wire push rod a bit to set mine up. Then I just had to adjust the two yellow stops to set the idle spring up and max throttle up. Try setting it up with just the throttle first and once you have that set up adjust the brake accordingly. And set max revs up first and see if you can adjust it to pull back to idle. BUT DON"T HAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING. You'd be surprised at haw many people I know who have been stupid enough to do that. You can do it all by looking down the carb.

If you can move the barrel in the carb to the correct positions, without the servo attached, don't mess with any settings on the carb, just the servo linkage.

Any problems and you know where to find us.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

Well, I forgot to take pics last night, but I think I fixed the problem anyway. I was getting impatiant waiting for my new clutch shoes, so I cleaned up my original, melted one and put it back it, I couldn't see it hurting much. Unfortunatly, I forgot to hook up the throttle linkage when I mounted the engine, and b/c i was being lazy, I tryed to connect it with the engine mounted. Long story short, the plastic slide valve on the carb made a "snap" kind of sound, and would spin all the way around. took the engine and air filter off, fixed the plastic slide valve thing, re-mounted the enging, and re-adjusted the slide valve. Now I get WOT on the carb, but it dosen't close all the way at netural. I had to re-tune the engine to get it started (still needs work), but I think it was all worth it. The car runs better, dosen't stall as much, probally goes a bit faster (more consistant any way), I get more white exust smoke then before, but I think it's still running a bit lean/hot, and most importantly, I HAD FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D :D :D

[dicko]

Don't run the car too lean for too long. That's how my piston & sleave got worn out. They aren't cheap to replace. I would get a new engine with a good carb instead. But I had already bought the carb so there wasn't much point buying a new engine.

Have fun running the car
Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

If you can see the smoke coming from the exhaust when you're driving around it's not running too lean.
If there's almost no smoke, it's running too lean....
Atleast that's what the manual says, I think... :)

Correct me if I'm wrong.

[Falco]

I was reading somewhere yesterday that the engine will lean out after warming up, so I'm going to richen my air/fuel mixture a half turn or so, better safe then sorry. First i'm going to play with the carb settings though, see if I can get it to stay still at idel. :)

Hey, what's everone running for nitro? I went with what the manual said for break-in and am using 10%, but I would like to go up to 20 - 30%.

[DCLXVI]

I'm running 20% 15% synthetic oil...

[shelter]

Strictly 10% nitro here.. so far anway.

[dicko]

Tune your top end in first, then your idle (wind the idle screw in for higher revs, or out for lower revs till it is just above a stall), it is much easier to get a balanced top & bottom tuned engine that way. I run strictly 15% and no more. You should tune the car in with what you intend to run, as the piston will bed in according to that type of fuel.

The more nitro you have in your fuel the better the engine will cool, but there is always a draw back. The more nitro you run in your fuel the quicker you will wear out the engine. Most of the guys I spoke to at the model shop who race them use 16% nitro.

Engines aren't always designed to run nitro through them, ie plane engines have no problem cooling down (out in the open with a big fan/prop cooling them) so they run 0% nitro. The manual recomends 20% nitro, but if you can keep the engine cool you can run less. You guys running it in sub zero shouldn't have a problem with this. I am happy with the performance I get from 15% in the DT-10 and 10% in my road car. The more nitro in the fuel the quicker the car burns fuel as well.

By the way I found a club near me that races 1/10 nitro stadium trucks. I am going to find out when they meet next & go check it out. Hopefully I will have the car back & running by then:D I might check on that today too:rolleyes: it's been a while.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

The parts still haven't arrived for my engine, so they are ringing up to see where they are. I went in and saw my DT-10 sitting in their glass cabinet all alone waiting for its new piston & sleave:( All it wants to do is hammer across the local footy oval at WOT. I think I will order a new engine, it would come from a different supplier and get here quicker. Very tempting to do that. then I would have a spare engine in the tool box for those rainy days.

[pistole]

Originally posted by dicko
Tune your top end in first, then your idle (wind the idle screw in for higher revs, or out for lower revs till it is just above a stall), it is much easier to get a balanced top & bottom tuned engine that way. I run strictly 15% and no more. You should tune the car in with what you intend to run, as the piston will bed in according to that type of fuel.

The more nitro you have in your fuel the better the engine will cool, but there is always a draw back. The more nitro you run in your fuel the quicker you will wear out the engine. Most of the guys I spoke to at the model shop who race them use 16% nitro.

Engines aren't always designed to run nitro through them, ie plane engines have no problem cooling down (out in the open with a big fan/prop cooling them) so they run 0% nitro. The manual recomends 20% nitro, but if you can keep the engine cool you can run less. You guys running it in sub zero shouldn't have a problem with this. I am happy with the performance I get from 15% in the DT-10 and 10% in my road car. The more nitro in the fuel the quicker the car burns fuel as well.

By the way I found a club near me that races 1/10 nitro stadium trucks. I am going to find out when they meet next & go check it out. Hopefully I will have the car back & running by then:D I might check on that today too:rolleyes: it's been a while.

Cheers
Dicko.


Dude ........... if you hobby shop guys can race competitively with 16% nitro , something is wrong. Over here , 20-30% nitro is minimum.

[DCLXVI]

Hi, pistole, long time no see ;)

Plane guys do not run 0%...they run from 5% to 30% depending on engine...
The nitro increases performance in the engine and also makes it cooler by no requiring as lean mixture as the lower precentage do...

I have the starter box and everything, but I can't use it since it won't reash the fly-wheel :( I have checked with the HS I bought the car from and my LHS how asked the distributor, came up with nothing... :(

I'll probably have to manufacture something myselfe...