TTR Dt-10

[unknown person]

I run 15% nitro methane and 5% synthetic/castor oil (i think?). I got some new eb-4 springs from LHS and they are great, they make hell of a difference compared to the stock springs. Ive tuned my carb so its just above stall every run, which makes the engine idle v quiet for a model engine and it runs great, even though it takes a second or two to get going.

My dad uses 15% nitro for hs heli, and i ve seen 70% nitro in me LHS guess thats for boats or summink:confused:

[Falco]

ok, try to figure this one out...

I was running the car after work today and it was giong ok. Everyonce and a while it will stall going from WOT to full breaks, and it could still be a bit lean, as I haven't played with the mixture yet (3 3/4 out). The last time it stalled, I went to start it again, but felt hot so i decided against it and just put it away for the night. when i was putting it away, I saw that I blew a hole in the tuned pipe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:confused: has anyone else seen or hered of this before?

[shelter]

I guess it's possible, things gets hot while running.
IMHO, it shouldn't happen... but I have learned by now that alot of weird things happen to Nitro RC cars.

My car also tend to stall after it's been running around for a while and going back to idle, I hear when the engine is about to die, then I just give some more throttle, usually saves me from stall.

I have a question, when I start the car, it idles fine and it isn't moving. But after it's been running and returning to idle, it tend to move forward (not very fast tho') by itself. Any solution to this?

I was going to increase the mixture today but I forgot my tools at home so it became a normal racing day with no fiddling around.

[Falco]

shelter,

adjust your throttle trim. Your carb is open too much at idle, I have the same problem, but it's the only way I can get the carb to open all the way. You can leave it too, just watch your clutch. :)

[Falco]

sorry about the quality, but here is a pic of the new hole in my pipe...

[shelter]

Ohh... you managed to blow that hole in the pipe/muffler itself, that's something I didn't think was possible at all.
Thought you were talking about the plastic between the exhaust and the muffler.

You sure you have a standard .15 engine and not some big whoopiedoo engine? :)

[DCLXVI]

Mabey he got one with the PRO70 accidentally installed... :D

[Falco]

Pritty isn't it? :) No, it's all stock. I just pulled the pipe off, and the inside of it's melted too, I guess i had it too close to the manifold, but it was the only way it would stay on.:(

When I was running it after work though, I swear I saw something black fly off the truck, mabey it was the melted plastic. Oh well! guess I'll just have to save for a nice shiney metal one!!!!:D NOw can one of you guys help me convince the g/f i need one?:)

[DCLXVI]

Eh, I don't know what "mood" your g/f are usualy in but you could probably "pursuade" (sp?) her quite easy...

Dicko, how are the diff casing and the spur gear comming along? Not to nag or anything, just curious... :)

I have made a drawing of a new engine mount...I'll have to hope that my cousins friend has the time to make it anytime soon...(he has access to CNC, made a really nice radio plate for my cousins USA-1), it's a quite simple design, two rectangular blocks of alu measuring 8 mm wide, 24 mm long and 13 mm high with four holes in it...(I will probably have to make some sort of spacer to if the engine sits to low)...

I went against my earlier plan to (not to uppgrade anything more) and orderd two par of DuraTrax alu shocks...hope they'll prove adequat...new tires also, Pro-Line Sand-Paws...(I got a burning sensation in my pocket after reciving my extra grandiose pay-cheque)...

/DCLXVI

[shelter]

Well, I adjusted my carbie once again, now the car's got a nice slow idle instead of the high idle I had for a while which made the car move some.
Also tried increasing the fuel mixture but I can't really increase it anymore because then the car would stall on idle because it get too much fuel (i guess). I have it open a little more than 2.5 turns.

I have to clean the car soon, which I hate, it's starting to get pretty dirty after some rounds of tarmac driving.

[dicko]

I have a few friends who fly planes, Only one of them uses 5% nitro. The others use 0% as their engines are not designed for nitro fuels. If you bought a plane engine designed for nitro you would use nitro in it. Nitro only improves the performance of an engine if it is designed to run nitro.

I haven't seen my friend who does cnc for a while, He is always out on his new motorbike riding in the hills. I'm not sure how busy he is at work either. Next time I see him I'll ask how busy he is. I have a spare casing so I can leave that with him to measure up. The gears are on the backburner for a while though.

I melted my stock plastic pipe, but not right through like that. I had the engine running too lean, that was the cause of a lot of my problems (worn piston and bearings).

The stockists in Sydney mucked up the order and hadn't sent it to the model shop on Friday. The piston and liner should go out today (Monday) but they (the warehouse) still hadn't ordered in the bearings. They must sit around and do nothing in that warehouse. The model shop is still waiting on some of the parts I ordered over a month ago. I usually get parts within a week:confused: .

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Still no car, I am going away with friends this week end so we are going to take the planes instead:( I'd rather drive the car. I might drag the old Tamiya Frog out of mothballs for the trip.

Pretty quiet on the DT-10 forum lately.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

It's been raining here so I haven't played with the car.
I haven't done anything with the car either, I have a fuelfilter to put in but I'll do that after I cleaned the car.

BTW, it's starting to show on the wheels now that I've been running it... they're becoming more and more flat.

[Falco]

Well, I just fixed the hole in my pipe, I hope. I sanded it down and filled it with body filler, so it should work fine. I don't really feel like buying a new pipe unless I'm getting a new engine to go with it, mabey a fantom .15? :D

Should be getting my new clutch shoes next week, they were supposed to ship today, with 5 days shipping, i think.

OK, I don't like driving my electric truck in water/rain, but how does nitro like the water? I know everyone says to put the reciver in a ballon, but how does the engine itself act when it wet?

[DCLXVI]

The only real danger of running the truck in water are to get water i the air filter/engine...It's probably not good to get to much water on a warm engine either...but I have ran the car in rain and through deep puddles and my stock engine still runs good...talking about running good...I took the car out (only got as far as about ½ tank when the set sdcrev on the diff out drive loosend but anyway) and started the engine without touching the needle...ran abit rich but still strong :) Thats after almost three weeks of not running at all....

[shelter]

I doubt the servos like water... hard to put a balloon around those. :)

[DCLXVI]

I have driven with the car completly covered up in snow...I think that the least of the problems are the servos...the 303 sould be upgraded anyways...

[dicko]

The servos should be fine if they are of good quality, But as DCL said try to keep water out of the air intake, and off of a hot engine. If you get water on a hot engine it can become brittle and crack the casing. I run mine in the wet with the cover on & haven't had a problem, it just takes a long time to clean it afterwards. Baloons over the battery pack and reciever are a must anyway to keep fuel and muck out of important parts.

Falco, I bought a new pipe for my car and there was an noticeable improvement in performance with the TTR engine. plus you can use the new exhaust on a new engine, as buggy engines generally don't come with an exhaust anyway.

DCL, did the fly wheel and bell gear fit onto the OS engine without any modifications? I assume that it would fit onto the engine mounts OK.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

The flywheel, cluch and cluch gear sould be no problem with...I bought new parts though, the cluch housing are 100% fitting (altough since the new engine has consirable more preformance I'd suggest a bigger cluch gear)...the engine mount fits but the flywheel are unable to reach the starterbox, I have made draving for a pair of CNC'd mounts, I'll see if they are tall enough, otherwise I'll have to use spacers...

[dicko]

I was looking at getting the pull start version anyway, so as long as it all fits I will probably get it in a few months. If I don't have the parts for the TTR engine by the end of next week I will probably order it then, It will take 3 days to get the engine and it has allready taken 2 weeks for the parts to NOT arrive.

If I can't get the stock parts to fit I will have to get the part numbers from you. When you say bigger clutch gear, do you mean more teeth or larger bell and clutch plates? More teeth on the bell gear would make the car go even faster.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

The only problem you might encounter are the possibility that the OS pulltart takes more room than the TT one...other than that it sould fit...

Yeah, I mean more teeth...I was a bit tired then and now 4 am I'm ever more so but I think that I have a 17 on now, but since I have not tried it yet I can't really say if you sould got with that or the stock one...

[dicko]

I'll go stock for starters, It won't be too hard to modify the top deck to alow a bigger pullstart to fit. A bit of grinding and a drill hole here & there and you will never know;) :D . I'm not worried about warranty anymore. The place I bought it from wouldn't honour it even if it was legitimate. I don't go there anymore, I'd rather get another shop to order it and pay extra. They have great customer service at the place I go to now.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Hehe...time is now 7:20 am...still no sleep...anyway...I was thinkning about creating a new top deck...all I the top deck really does are to stiffen up the chassi...the servos sould be monuted somewhere else and I think that it would be easier to fit larger batteries and such...

[dicko]

We just got back from a work lunch, so I have had a few. Carbon Fibre and Kevlar are really easy to work with. If you are going to make a new top deck, blend those two together and you will have a bullet proof deck. I wouldn't mount anything to the lower chassis as the engine vibrations aren't absorbed like they are on the top deck. You may destroy a few recievers if you don't mount them with the right padding. Plus my bottom chassis tends to get covered in fuel and grease that leaks from the engine. I think I will just look at a new engine for now.

[dicko]

I've noticed that my 6v batterty packs don't last too long since I put the heavy duty servo and failsafe in. But the replacement 5 cell pack not only costs alot but makes the failsafe pointless as the power doesn't fade out but instead drops off all at once. The failsafe kicks in after the batteries get below a certain level, but it needs battery power to work. so if the battery drops off all at once, there isn't enough power for the failsafe to pull the servo to full brake. I don't know what I will do about this, but for now I just buy lots of batteries.

[dicko]

I just thought of something really cool, a moulded top deck. I could make that easily, you could mould spaces for batteries, servos and a nice bucket to put the reciever in. a nice carbon fibre kevlar finish (interwoven black & gold) would look really trick, especially if it was polished with a clear coat. Really easy to make too, just shape it out of foam first and lay the fibre over top, then lay on the resin.

[DCLXVI]

You could use four AAA batterys and connect them to the fail-safe directly, that way you'll always have power to shut down the throttle...

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by dicko
I just thought of something really cool, a moulded top deck. I could make that easily, you could mould spaces for batteries, servos and a nice bucket to put the reciever in. a nice carbon fibre kevlar finish (interwoven black & gold) would look really trick, especially if it was polished with a clear coat. Really easy to make too, just shape it out of foam first and lay the fibre over top, then lay on the resin.

Didn't see that post...sounds cool enough, but where does one get that material, and what do you mean by "lay on the resin"?

[dicko]

you get it from a marine shop. I use it to fix my sailing boat. For this I would cut the shape I want into a polystyrene or similar foam (it would have to be resistant to the type of resin you would use) Make sure that there is a strong-flat rim or something (hard to describe but easy to show visually) to keep the strength, and press the weave (Carbon Kevlar or Carbon alone, depends what you buy)into the shape and then use a brush to paint resin over the weave. You will have to dab is areas to get the resin to soak into the fibres but it isnt hard. then allow to set over night (kept at a warm temperature, this will emit a strong smell that can make you feel sick) in the morning/ next day rip the foam off of the bottom, sand it back and cut the loose ends away with strong scissors or sand the edges back. Then give it all a light sand and another coat of resin to bring up a nice shine. drill the holes to match it to the body and servos/radio gear and your done. If you run the car with the top off you may need to paint it as both Carbon and Kevlar are not UV resistant, but in the mild sun you have up there you probably wouldn't need to. I would use the existing tray as a starting point and design holes and fixing points around that.

I might try using Fibre glass first as it is cheaper and you will get an idea of what your limitations are before spending the big money on carbon.

I'll have to loook into that thing with the AAAs I don't know how I would set that up. Electronics is not my speciality, but one of the guys I know who flies model planes usually fixes my radio gear when it goes funny. He should know how to set something up, he works on real plane electronics for a living. I'll ask him tonight.

Cheers

only 25 minutes till i get to go home from work. one day till the week end.

[Falco]

Getting servos wet dosen't bother me too much, they are seald not too bad from the factory. So the engine can crack if it gets wet... good to know.

DCL, what ever happened with your roll cage, and what did you use to make it? I'm thinking about making my own rear body posts, and mabey putting in a roll cage too. At first I was going to use heavy gauge copper wire (we have alot at work, so it cheep/free), or a smaller gauge stranded wire, with solder and the bend points for stringht. Now I think I'll use a wire coat hanger.

Did you buy new engine mounts for your O.S., or reuse the stock ones?

[pistole]

Yeah , I fibreglassed the floor pan of my Mini a long while ago ......... easy enough ........ just be careful of the fumes from the resin ..... it'll burn a hole in your lungs if you're not careful.

How have you'all been ?

Me , I have been busy with work , my DT10 , the EK4 , the EB4 and now , my Raptor 30V2 AND now , my newborn son. So , as you can tell , alot on my plate now.

Cheers.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by Falco
Getting servos wet dosen't bother me too much, they are seald not too bad from the factory. So the engine can crack if it gets wet... good to know.

DCL, what ever happened with your roll cage, and what did you use to make it? I'm thinking about making my own rear body posts, and mabey putting in a roll cage too. At first I was going to use heavy gauge copper wire (we have alot at work, so it cheep/free), or a smaller gauge stranded wire, with solder and the bend points for stringht. Now I think I'll use a wire coat hanger.

Did you buy new engine mounts for your O.S., or reuse the stock ones?

The roll-cage are installed and seems to be working...a had several roll-overs that did not end up cracking the diff casing...I made it from 3 mm brass wire installing it in the holes in the upper part of the diff casing...(those holes are used for the a-arms on the SSB and SSR)...I have pics of on my page...close to the bottom of the DT-10 photos page...

I have my cousins friend making me a new set of engine mounts (hopefully) this week...the stock will fit if you buy a oull-start engine I'm sure...

Pistole, glad to hear that your genes are spreading ;) How are the little guy? Fine I hope...
So you have started flying helicopters now also? Hard? The how are the Ex-4's going and what about the DT-10? Everything in order?

[Falco]

Pistole,
CONGRADULATIONS!!!!!!!! I'm expecting my first in early Oct.

[dicko]

Congtratulations Pistole, you will have to start buying toys for the little one straight away, remember, they will grow into them, so minibikes and rc gear is perfect. He He.

I was looking at a 2nd hand Raptor over here with everything and heaps of spares with the flight simulator, all for $1200 aussie, about $600 U.S. but I don't have the money at the moment. I was looking at them brand new and this is a bargain. Oh well, you get some, you don't get some.

Better get to work, It's friday & I am going away this week end so I want to leave a little early. Still no car. I will be flying model planes & gliders this time tomorrow.

Cheers
Dicko.

[unknown person]

Hi all,

Congratulations Pistole

Finally some r/c heli action, I have some raptor parts for sale only a few (20 odd), I myself have a Kyosho Nexus 30 that is a great starter heli, im learning to fly with it at the moment. (miraculasly i havent crashed it yet, well my dad bent the main rotor bar. Its hard when u start but when u use it again and again u will get used to it and crack the hover. Basicly its like riding a bike (as i remember it)

Havent been able to use the dt-10 cuz i still havent got any fuel, but i went over my mate house who has a CEN mt-2 and he said i could borrow some of his fuel so i was doing some jumps but that was when i didnt have the front shock upgrade and it was jumping really bad but now i have the upgrade, its fine. I was going to put a 20t on the clutch but i dont think anyone does one.

Might be getting a terra crusher or a t-maxx, thats a thought :eek: how about putting an electric start in the dt-10, hhhhmmm ill have to try that

[Falco]

Originally posted by unknown person
how about putting an electric start in the dt-10, hhhhmmm ill have to try that

Been thinking of that myself, check out khb racing for conversion kits for the EZ Start, the Picco edition should fit, $25.00 US at tower.

[shelter]

I have to congrat pistole too even to he doesn't "know" me. I've read his previous posts tho'.
Don't spoil the kid with too much R/C stuff.. :)

I haven't driven my DT-10 yet, I was thinking of doing so today but it got too late.
I have to drive some tomorrow before I go to my girlfriend and live in her apartment for a while. We live in two different cities so I can't run my car while I'm there.

[DCLXVI]

It is so...I was able to start the OS "today" (friday)...still running in but I'll soon be able to tweak the HSN... :D I have already seen the result of it...(it gets leaner as I approatch empty tank)...

(Man am I drunk or what?)

[dicko]

My piston & cylinder finally arrived, the bearings are still on back order, but I should have the car up & running by the weekend:D Just in time as there is a race at the local track behind my house this weekend. I will take the DT-10 down & see how it compares to other trucks out there. They just put a new controller platform in about 5 feet above the track so you have an excellent view of you car while driving. Pitty all the local kids have been using it as a bmx track and have destroyed some of the corners because of the mud.

I went in yesterday to order a new engine because I was sick of waiting for the piston, and it had arrived. so I am going to spend the money on something else. The new piston looks a lot better than the old stock one, yet again another TTR spare part which is better than the original. I am definitely seeing a trend here.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

Well, my repair job to the tuned pipe didn't work, I'll have to try with epoxy or fiberglass i think.

I made new rear body posts the other day. I used a wire coat hanger, so they souldn't break if the car rolls!;) I try to post some pics later, I got to get off my ***** and get a website up and running! No more small pics!!

Once againe I metled the clutch shoe (original still) so I wont be running the car 'till I get the new ones, which should be this week!:)

[dicko]

Be carefull with wire body posts, you may snap the suspension mounts instead. That is the problem a few of the other guys are having. I have yet to break the body posts, but there is allways going to be a first.

I just picked up the car from the shop. It is sitting under my desk waiting to go for a spin. It will have to wait till the week end because there isn't enough light after work yet to run the engine in. I have the joy of running the new piston and liner in all over again. I will keep it really rich for the first few tanks and hopefully it will be all good. It is amazing how much compression this new cylinder & piston has, even more than the original one! when you have the head off and turn the engine over, the piston actually pushes the liner up out of the engine. I can't wait to get it tuned in and screaming at WOT:D . I will put the new bearings in when they arrive sometime in the future.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Uhm... lamer question... where's the clutch shoe anyway? :)

[DCLXVI]

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_215.jpg

The orange stuff with the speing around are cluch shoes...on the DT-10 those are black... (or white on older models)...

[Falco]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
The orange stuff with the speing around are cluch shoes...on the DT-10 those are black... (or white on older models)...

Actually, my clutch shoes are a bit brown...:p

nice looking engin though, want to sell it? lol

[dicko]

I love that new carbie, I had a bit of daylight left when I got home last night (even though it was still wet from the rain) so I ran a tank of 10% through the engine to start running it in. There is a definite advantage to a dual needle carbie. The engine runs so much better than with the old piston & liner (couldn't possibly have run any worse:p ). I will run the 15% nitro through on the week end to finish running it in. Then WOT all the way:D . I bought a new bottle of 15% to run it in with, I think the old fuel may be going off by now. It is supposed to start going off after 6 weeks or so, and the old fuel is a lot older than that. I will only buy it in 1 litre bottles from now on so that it doesn't have a chance to turn. It has been pretty wet lately so the old fuel has possibly absorbed a bit of moisture as well.

Cheers & here's to fast runnings
Dicko.

[shelter]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
The orange stuff with the speing around are cluch shoes...on the DT-10 those are black... (or white on older models)...

So I have to remove the gear to see the actual clutch shoe?

[Falco]

Shelter, yep, and to do that you need to remove the engine too.:(

Well, it's not much, but I got a start on my web page (http://www.mts.net/~tysimons/)

[dicko]

Be carefull taking the C clip off of the drive shaft, it can spring off and dissapear. Use a small screwdriver, cup your hand around it and push it off gently. the car doesn't come with spare C clips. There is a bearing that can come loose inside the bell gear as well, but if it is greased properly it shouldn't come apart.

I am looking forward to getting the car out on the week end. But fathers day will play a part in how much (if any) tuning in I get done.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by Falco
Actually, my clutch shoes are a bit brown...:p

nice looking engin though, want to sell it? lol

It's not mine and and it's a .21... :rolleyes: :D

[dicko]

I just heard that the TTR pro 70 has had a few problems and has been taken off the market until next year when a new revamped one comes out. All the cars with this engine are off the market too. They don't make a airplane engine in a 70, only a 61 then a 120 I think. If you want something in between you need a 4 stroke. Makes me glad I only have a small 15. But then again that has had its problems. Hope they fix it up, I was looking at getting a 1/10 4wd for something different.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I have a whole week end with no plans and no commitments. Good weather and an engine to run in. I know where & what I will be doing. The ocal RC track looks like it will get a work out once the engine is ready.:D ;) . I will give it a bash before they start to redesign it. They are supposed to be putting in a longer straight. I can't complain with that.:cool:

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

sounds like fun dicko!

Well, I got my clutch shoes yesterday, and they look a hell of a lot better then the original ones!:D The only problem is that I stippped the heads off two of the screws holding my engine to the chassie!:eek: :( :rolleyes: I managed to get them out at work, got to love dremels!!:D Now I just hove to go to the hardware store and replace them, unless I can find some at work... I don't suppose anyone knows the proper screw size of hand?

[dicko]

Not sure on those screw part numbers, but if you looked up the Tamiya ones on ehobbies.com you will be able to find the part number and get a whole bag of them dirt cheap from your local hobby shop.

I ran the engine in and got the car nicely tuned on the weekend. It is amazing what a bit of compression will do to an engines performance. You can now pull the car off the ground with the pull start and have the engine not turn over again. The new carbie is easy to tune in too. Should have got it a while ago.

I found a websit for my local track. They are also starting up a 1/10 nitro stadium truck competition. The website is www.ozemail.com.au/~racecar If you find the map of how to get to the track my house would be where the left cross hair intersects with the circle. I live on the other side of the block that is next to the park where the track is, about a 3 minute walk away.

I was looking on the box cover and noticed that they have the rear body posts facing forward on the car and mounting the body further forward toward the cab. Does anyone out there have their car set up like that? I don't know if it would reduce the risk of snapping body posts or not but I am curious to see if they released any set up like that.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Falco]

actually, I found the screws at the hardware store, for $0.24, so I got 5 (all they had :D) If any one needs to know, there a M3 10mm long.

I still havent re-mounted the engine after replacing the clutch shoes, havent had any time yet.:( Hopefull I'll get to it soon, as well as post a pic of the old clutch shoe, it looks pretty sad!

I've got to fix my PC first though, so it could be awhile:(

[dicko]

I just looked on the schematic diagram of the DT-10 and HN M3_10 is the label for those screws. So there you have it. you can use that diagram for something after all.

I still have my melted clutch shoe somewhere too. Not only did the clutch shoe melt but the spring that holds it in was visibly worn from rubbing on the inside if the bell gear. I haven't had any problems with the new one. The car seems to be running well since It has had such a long break. I am still waiting on the bearings for the engine. The engine seems to be running well but I will replace the bearings when they get here any way. The leak was coming from the bearings so better to be safe than have a blown engine.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Heay DCL,

did the Trac Ta Gator tyres come with foam inserts? I am ordering some DirtPaws today and a pair of race tyres for the rear aswell. I know the race tyres come with inserts, But I don't know if the others do.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

No, they don't come with inserts, mine didn't anyways, I think that theyare supposed to now...probably won't need them anyways...they are really hard...

The rollcage I did really works...I have had several roll-overs and crashes that would surley have broken the diff-casing...but as it stands now, its fine...the rollcage on the otherhand are a bit bent...and the rear shocktower are also bent...

[dicko]

I ordered some spare rims and the dirt paws at lunch. They had the pro-line bow ties in stock so I grabbed a pair of them to replace the stock rear tyres. I intend on using these as race tyres only as they sound like the right tyre for the track I will be running them on. I wanted to order the latest pro-line tyre but they can't get them yet over here (the hex ones, I can't remember their name) so they will be the next set I will test. I forgot to order a spare set of dog bones while I was there :rolleyes: so I will save them up for next time.

This week end will be spent destroying the old rear tyres, so lots of wheelies, donuts and power slides are in order. I will use the inserts from these in the dirt paws, I will probably put them in the front as I will replace the rear more often, so I should have a spare set of inserts (from the stock front) by the time I need to replace them.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I'm thinking about "converting" my truck to the use of hex adapters...only problem are that I will "loose" several rims doing that...I think that I have like four complete sets, 16 rims that is...and I don't know whitch rims that will fit the axle...I know that Kyosho axles are to small...

[dicko]

Use a drill and drill out the centre of the rim. The hex adapter itself just locks onto a pin anyway. I will check my Tamiya ones tomorrow night & see if the hex from the subaru fits the dt-10. I'll let you know.

I just got an e-mail back from the guy who organises racing at my local track. They still need a few more trucks to make up a class. Any of you guys want to move down under to race? Nice mild winters (15-18 deg C) and warm summers, only 500mm of rain a year so there is always a good chance of nice weather. Basically a beautiful medditeranean climate. Come on, I know you want to;) :D :)

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

DCL,

Have you found a hex adapter that fits yet? I will have a play on the week end and see if I can get the Tamiya ones to fit & what you need to do if they don't. I have a heap of spare Tamiya ones from the Subaru so it shouldn't be too hard, as long as they are smaller than the DT-10 axle diameter.

It is going to be a good week end for driving by the look. Intermittent rain. It should keep the track nice & soft with no dust.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

No I haven't looked into it...the only rims I can get are Kyosho and those are not as good looking as the TT rims...

I know that I can get "thin" hex adapters though...they are about 3 mm thick so monting will not be any trouble...

[Falco]

HPI hex adapter will fit if you drill out the center a bit. When I bought my HPI rims (rears only, fronts could be different) it came with a set of different size/style adapters, I think the Tamiya ones fit best, but I forget what size I re-driled the axel hole, probably 1/4 inch or 3/16 inch. You should check out RPM (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/core.htm) for some cool rims. Any HPI rim should fit w/ the hex adapter, and Associated wheels (better selection) should also fit.

[DCLXVI]

Well I have to wait awhile, I don't really wat to get eight pairs right now...I'll replace when the rims break...

[unknown person]

hi all

well.............after 4 weeks of not running the car i went out for a blast a few minutes before posting this post. I went to the local bmx track for some bashing and i had great fun, but after the third tank disaster happened!:eek: i went to full blast along a big grassy straight and suddenly the wheel fell off and the cluch with it:eek: :( .

oh well looks like some more money to blow for me.

dan

Why doesnt thunder tiger do hop ups for the dt-10. they do them for the ex-4's and the tx-4 SO WHY DONT THEY DO THEM FOR THE DT-10!!!!!!!:mad: :o :( :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

[dicko]

I got the Tamiya hex adaptors to fit on the week end, just a bit of drilling to open the hole up and no problems. The DT-10 looks a little silly with touring car wheels on it though, so I will stick with the standard ones.

My new tyres arrived this morning so I will pick them up at lunch. I went through a glo plug after running the engine in last week end, but once I put a new OS#8 in it it went really well all week end. I have almost entirely worn out the stock rear tyres so I'll be ready to put the new tyres on soon. The bow-tie tyres look like they'll hook up really well but they are a bit lower profile than the stock tyres, so I will get less top end speed, but better acceleration.

Had a wheel nut come loose on Sunday and the pin got sent into orbit, good thing I have a few spare of them. look out for a low flying axle pin coming your way, if you find it can I have it back? I think they may have been the only nuts that I forgot to put threadlock on. I have replaced ALL the plastic nuts though, they are useless.

Cheers & safe runnings
Dicko.

[Falco]

Originally posted by dicko
Had a wheel nut come loose on Sunday and the pin got sent into orbit, good thing I have a few spare of them. look out for a low flying axle pin coming your way, if you find it can I have it back? I think they may have been the only nuts that I forgot to put threadlock on. I have replaced ALL the plastic nuts though, they are useless.

Cheers & safe runnings
Dicko.

Same thing happened to me when I first had the car. The reason they are nylon nuts is because they are supposed to be self locking, if only they worked! I replaced the missing wheel nut with a 6-32 nylon nut. (The stock wheel nut should be an M4, and 6-32 is the SAE equivelant (sp?) of an M3). Basically, the nut I'm using is a size too small, but b/c it is nylon, I don't have to worry about stripping it. It's a nice snug fit, but it's also easy enough to take off if I want to change wheels/tires.

Unfortunatly, I didn't have any extra axle pins when I lost mine, paper clips work not too bad... :rolleyes: :)

[DCLXVI]

I'm using lock-nuts whatever they are called...you know the metal kind with nylon inside...works 100% never lost a wheel...

[dicko]

I use lock nuts with a dab of locktite just to be doubly sure. I went over the car last night and looked for things that can come undone or cause a problem and found that I have pretty much everything covered. The only thing I am slightly concerned of is the possibility that the pullstart cord may get jammed in the throtle arm in a freak occurence. I am looking into making a wire clip to hold it out the way.

I got my Dirt Paws yesterday, they didn't come with inserts. The outside diameter on these is HUGE. They will certainly increase the top end speed of the car. I was amazed at how much smaller the bow tie tyres were to the stock ones, and these are the opposite extreme. All I need mow is for the rims to arrive and I can set them up for a thrashing;) :D . I have to go in and get some bearings for the rear axles today, I meant to get them a while ago to replace the bushes but completely forgot. When I saw the bushes still in there on the weekend I remembered :rolleyes: short term memory loss I guess. May as well get some fuel and a spare glo plug while I am there.

Cheers
Dicko.

[unknown person]

how much do cluches cost cuz as i said in a prev post i melted it (alot more of them to come yet lol)

would any 2.2'' tyres/rims fit the dt-10 or will i have to get proline ones cuz i saw some team losi tyres with rims that looked cool but they were over size

DCL how are the hpi tyres because they looked beasty on the truck are they the rush ones

[DCLXVI]

The tires works great...

[dicko]

cultch shoes cost me around $7 aussie, or $4.00 U.S. I just picked up the Pro line Dirt-Paws & they are excellent. any 2.2" tyre will fit the DT-10 rims, but you need a pin slotted rear wheel unless you make some hex adapters to fit for the rim you want to put on. You may need to drill the hole in the middle of the rim out. The DT-10 axle is 5mm, so the hex adapter & rim should be made to fit this.

I also got a pair of bow-tie proline tyres, but they are very low profile and look a bit funny on the back with standard front tyres. So I am going to get another pair of Bow-ties today for the front.

Still waiting on another set of 1050 bearings for the rear axles. They only had 1 pair when I went in. hopefully they get some more in stock before the week end.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

The old rear rims were a bit beaten up on the face that has the pin insert, especially the one that lost the wheel nut. So I had to do the nuts up tighter to get them to hold and as a resul;t the wheels wouldn't spin freely. SOLUTION, I gave them to my friend who works at a tooling business and got him to mill off 0.5mm from the face, now they are perfect. I can do the wheel nuts up tight and they spin as free as a bird. No more problems with wheel nuts flying off, and axle pins going into orbit.

I might do this to my new set as well as a preventative measure for future stuff ups.

Cheers
Dicko.

[unknown person]

hi

Dcl looks like u want or are getting a txt (dont blame u)

Any1 seen shelter lately?:confused:

[unknown person]

Still no clutch oh well..................looks like my car will be out of action for 10 weeks supposedly:mad: :eek: :confused: oh well ill resort to the heli insted. Need new tyres aswell and the throttle servo broke aswell so...............

[DCLXVI]

True on the TXT-1 thing, I'm saving up for a TXT-1...where did you see that?

I will still have my DT-10, nothing will take that away from me...I want the TXT more like a winter truck/climber...it's not meant to replace the DT-10...just to supplemt it... :D

I wan't to do some running on sunday...hope the weather is fine...
:rolleyes:

[unknown person]

i saw it in the mt forums

i wouldnt mind the savage ss or the new tamiya tnx or what ever its called, if i had to have a electric mt i would probably go for the e-maxx due to it being a good mess around car/mt

[DCLXVI]

For messing around I have the DT-10...now it can take abuse, alot of abuse!

The TXT are for the looong winter months and for crawling...

[unknown person]

if my car goes near a jump it will wimper! no it can jump really well but thunder tiger havent engineered it so it can take much abuse (when it comes out the box) you have to spend atleast £100 to get it right

Ill get it setup perfect one day

im hopefully getting a savage ss

[DCLXVI]

er...double post... :rolleyes:

[DCLXVI]

All you need to do :

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_246.jpg

It costs less than a clutch shoe...

[unknown person]

ill have to do that:D
It looks like you made urs out of copper or something like that. How do u put the body on? or do u run it naked

How is the os doing, looks like its had a lot of abuse:D and the car does to

Last question what tyres are they, are they the hpi yokohamas. I am going to get some proline gladiators

[unknown person]

Still no clutch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad: :(

[DCLXVI]

Yes it is HPI Yokohama Geolandar tires...

The cage are made of brass and it's soldered...

I mount the body with a zip-tie...

The OS are going good...some small problem with the low-speed needle though...(almost all the dirt and grime on the pic are from one tank of fuel)...

[dicko]

Those Dirt Paw tyres from Proline work really well on grass & softpacked dirt. I had them out on the weekend & they hooked up so well I was rolling the car on turns and pulling wheelies on the footy oval. impressive, I haven't been pulling wheelies for a while with those old worn tyres. I will get the bow tie tyres out for a blast on the track at some stage this week. They hooked up really well on hardpack dirt which is what the RC track is made out of (It would probably class as a blue groove track). I bought some new 16% nitro fuel which is scary fast in the engine. It has a blend of synthetic and de-gummed castor oil. I have previously run 15% with all synthetic oil, but this stuff is a lot better, it smokes a bit more though, and you go through it a fair bit quicker (I had to open the high end needle out a fair bit).

That Tamiya TXT 1 looks pretty burly. Should be a fun winter indoor car. you will have to set yourself up a carpet track with a few jumps to test its full potential;) :) . I am still looking at getting a 4wd 0.21 1/10 stadium truck, but funds are well & truly lacking at the moment.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Insted of getting a 1/10 .21 save abit more and get a 1/8 .21...will probably be more fun in the long run...

The TXT wont be for winter-indoor running ;)

[dicko]

If I get a 1/8 I'll get one with a bigger engine, something like a 70. But I know the car I want to get. They have it at my local hobby store for about $300u.s. I have seen them run & they do over 60mph (96kmh) I can't remember the name of it though. I had a video off the web with one on it and it was insane. Plus I can't afford to fix a 1/8th truck or buggy. I have checked them out & they are too expensive to repair. The DT-10 will do me for a while, with the tuned pipe & other upgrades I have done to it, it does quite well.

I raced against some other cars on the local track yesterday (Sunday) & the DT-10 performs really well. I had no trouble beating them but I would have done a lot better with the bow tie tyres on the truck(instead of the dirtpaws). I noticed HPI have the same boe tie tyres (I think Proline make them) but in a higher profile.

[shelter]

Hi guys!

I'm still here, been doing other things so I haven't played with my DT-10 anything.

I charged the batteries in the car and the radio last saturday hoping to do some racing on sunday but it was raining like mad so no racing. :(

I'll take the car out next weekend if the weather permits it. It's starting to get cold up here, so it's going to be less fun to go out and run the car...

[unknown person]

hi all

Shelter where have u been, good to see u were going to use your dt-10 but no it had to rain didnt it, (i know how u feel, my car is out of action due to a melted clutch:( )

proline tyres are sort of cheap over here they are about £11.00 which is about $13 (v roughly), so i am going to get some of those (dont know what to get, can u guys help me!)

Savage ss/25 all the way or maybe a t-maxx for a 1:10 car/mt. If i was going to get a road car i would get an hpi

[DCLXVI]

dicko, you'll spen less money repairing the 1/8 buggy than you would an .21 1/10 ST...

Imagine hitting something at about 90-100 KPH...

Shelter, welcome back...I had a simmilar experience this weekend...I went out to run some and to shoot a vid of the OS engine...well the darn low-speed needle had moved so it ran to rich to run... :( (the needle sits in a place where I can adjust it, the engine sits to low)...

[dicko]

DCL,

Have you tried to rotate the carby? It doesn't have to sit at 90 degrees to the engine. If you can set it up so that you can still run the throttle with the servo you may be able to get it so that you can also reach the idle needle. Just a thought.

Proline tyres are good, but be carefull, they make buggy tyres (low profile) and truck tyres (high profile) I got the bow tie in low profile before I realized that they also made a higher profile for the stadium trucks. They have their range of tyres on line, the lug nut T was what I wanted to get, but they didn't have any in stock, so I got the bow ties which hook up really well on hard pack. I found the Dirt paws hook up really well on grass and softpack, but wear really fast on hard pack. I put the inserts out of my original tyres into the dirt paws, while the bow ties come with inserts. All depends on what you are driving on really. HPI have a bow tie tyre which looks identical to the proline one, it is probably made by proline, but sold by HPI.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I'd recommend Pro-Line Trac-ta-gator for grassa nd semi-loose surfaces and HPI Geolandar for about anything else... (Pro-line Sand-paw for really loose, like sand or snow)...

I can't really turn the carb that much...I don't think it will fit...

[unknown person]

im/was running my car on grass and lose chippings (very small and loose) which is a real pain cuz the stock ones r rubbish on it, it just slides every where.. so trac-ta-gator it is then by the looks of it but the 'spikes' on it look a bit lethal and just rip up the track :D

I NEED MY CLUTCH DAMMIT:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: (just goes to show how fustrating it is when you cant drive a car for 10 weeks!!!!!!!)

[dicko]

Looked at a whole range of cars yesterday, but they are nothing on the DT-10. They all had PLASTIC shock towers, and plastic upper decks???? The only advantage any of them had was the sideways engine, and the tank in the middle of the car. So I will stick with the DT-10 and upgrade the shocks and get another FM radio that I can use on the race track (I am currently using an aircraft one) I like the look of the Sanwa digital display FM one.

I found out that HPI are selling Pro-line tyres, ie the bow-tie. The geolanders look like the Dirt-Hawg, but i'm not sure on that one. I love the Dirt-paws, I think they are very similar to the trac-ta-gator, but I liked the hole in the top of the lug (spike), it allows better traction on wet surfaces & is a great all round tyre. but if you are just running on small chips the trac-ta-gator would be fine.


I have been pulling a few wheelies with the new tyres. Very impressed
;) :D :cool:

Cheers
Dicko

[shelter]

Originally posted by dicko
I have been pulling a few wheelies with the new tyres. Very impressed
;) :D :cool:

Cheers
Dicko

Not possible with the stock tyres, at least I haven't managed to do a wheelie. Not sure if it's possible with the stock engine either, sure doesn't feel like it. :D

[dicko]

I have done 1 with the stock tyres & engine (when it was near brand new, on hard packed race track)). But the engine was running lean so acceleration was good. But it resulted in a worn piston & cylinder. The new carbie keeps the mixture right throught the whole range of revs so acceleration is pretty good. I found it easiest to pull wheelies on short cut grass with soft soil underneath, with the dirtpaws on. MyDT-10 is running pretty well at the moment.

Cheer & fast runnings

Dicko.

[dicko]

Just noticed there is a new Radio Control Zone logo at the top of the page. ooh aah.

[dicko]

Remember how I said the 70 size TTR engine was pulled off the shelf due to troubles, along with all the cars it was sold in. WELL, this just in.....

It has been re-released. It should be on the shelves anytime now. If you get one, make sure it is the latest version. I am tempted. But funds just say"no".:(

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Me again.

I have found thunder tiger's direct website and their e-mail adress for questions. Send them an e-mail and ask them to make hop up options for the DT-10.

Thundertiger@tiger.com.tw

their web adress is

www.tiger.com.tw

let them know you want aluminium or titanium bulkheads, better shocks and a better steering mechanism.

But be polite. People ignore rude e-mails. Suggestions and congratulations go down better than harassing.

Cheers
Dicko.

[unknown person]

ill do that

[DCLXVI]

I've known about that site for quite some time now...I don't think that they will be making any hop-ups...to small market...

The make upgrade shock by the way...or you can buy duratrax alu shocks for the Evader (rear)...

[dicko]

I was looking at them but they had a thin plastic ball joint on the bottom. I'm not sure if the later ones are like that or are a bit thicker. I am looking for some I saw on a bigger truck with ALL aluminium parts, no plastic. The balls were pressed into the joint. I have asked a friend who knows someone who runs them to get the part number.

I have been looking tor a thunder tiger site for a while, but have only found the Ace hobbies one. how long has it been up. It would have been a few months ago that I last looked. I found some aluminium bulkheads (front & rear) on the Pro-line sit, but they weren't for the DT-10:rolleyes: .

I have been playing with springs on my shocks lately. I am currently running a dual rate. I have a stiff 5-6cm spring with a stiffer 2.5cm spring. PROGRESSIVE ABSORPTION. It works really well. I have set the front up stiffer so that there is no rear wheel tyre lift trhrough corners. The way it is set up the shock is harder to compress the further into the stroke, instead of easy the whole way through.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Well the duratrax shocks uses imperial ball joints so I couldn't fit an M3 through there, but I had some kyosho ball ends lying around...that worked prefecly...I don't think that the stock ball-joint sould cause any problem though...it is probably as thik as it needs to be...

It might be possible to fit 1/8 scale buggy shocks but they are a bit long and quite expensive...the lenth are of course adjustable somewhat but the truck won't be able to sit as low...
I don't know but mabey front shocks would fit...

[dicko]

Your right about the price, SKY HIGH. looks like I will go after the duratrax after all. I checked some out on the evader they had in store & they didn't look too bad. by saying that the m3 wouldn't fit through, do you mean the screw through the ball? and does that mean they come with balls in the joints? Also what springs do they come with (colour will do if you don't know if they are hard, medium or soft)? I was looking at getting a set of hard if they didn't come in the kit.

I was looking at getting some Aluminium ends made up or bought seperately for the stanchion if they were too weak.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

The holes throught the balls are probably 4-40 or something like that...the springs that comes with them are yellow I think, but they are medium and I recommend the hard green springs fully screwed down rear and in the middle up front with 40w AE oil works wonderfully...

The shocks are a bit special though...you fill them from below...so you can't overfill them, or they won't compress at all...:confused:

[dicko]

Sounds good. I've been running the front harder than the rear so that the inside rear wheel doesn't come off the ground through turns. It also helps going through jumps by holding the front of the car up off the lip and helps stop the car going rear end over front. I broke the front C clip for the stearing on the week end, and I went through another drive axle. They are definitely a week point in the car. I noticed that there isn't a part number for the C clip in the manual. I hope the hobby shop stocks them as a single item and know what I want when I describe it to them.

Cheers
Dicko.

[unknown person]

Only another 6 days till i get my clutch replacement!!!!!!!!!

Its annoying read what you guys do to your cars and mines just sitting in the garage!! (all in bits)

oh well

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by dicko
Sounds good. I've been running the front harder than the rear so that the inside rear wheel doesn't come off the ground through turns. It also helps going through jumps by holding the front of the car up off the lip and helps stop the car going rear end over front. I broke the front C clip for the stearing on the week end, and I went through another drive axle. They are definitely a week point in the car. I noticed that there isn't a part number for the C clip in the manual. I hope the hobby shop stocks them as a single item and know what I want when I describe it to them.

Cheers
Dicko.

Just put a zip-tie around the C-collar...espec if you are running a better-than-stock servo...HS303 gear sets only cost like 3 USD overhere...so logically it would be even cheaper down there...
I have just managed to break my servo gears one (and that was before I put the zip-tie there go figure)...and I've done some stupid things with my truck...

Unkown...sorry to hear that you are still waiting...mabey you sould find some other parts supplier...?

[shelter]

Originally posted by unknown person
Only another 6 days till i get my clutch replacement!!!!!!!!!

Its annoying read what you guys do to your cars and mines just sitting in the garage!! (all in bits)

oh well

My problem is the #&¤!#%?¤ rain. It was raining madly this weekend so I couldn't play anything!

[shelter]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Just put a zip-tie around the C-collar...

A picture would be nice to show what you mean, especially since I don't know what the C-collar is. :)

[DCLXVI]

I don't have a pic but it's the part of the steering assy that are supposed to make sure the servo don't bite it when you crash...big help it it :rolleyes: I have replaced that to many times...running in snow makes plastic brittle... :(

Hint - It looks just like a C and are located "under" the screw that holds the muffler...

[dicko]

I used to have a zip tie around the c clip. But with the metal geared servo, the servo arm split instead of the c clip springing opening. At the time I didn't have any spare zip ties so I used the one off of the c clip to hold the servo arm together to stop it slipping on the servo. I had to get a whole stearing assembly just to get one c clip:confused: :mad: . For something like that you should be able to get it as a separate item. But at least I now have the importer in Sydney's number so that I can order through them direct. It is cheaper and they courier it direct to me at work, over night. I should have my parts today hopefully (I hope our mailroom delivers it & doesn't let it sit around down there).

Going away on a houseboat trip up the murray river this weekend (holiday weekend over here) and there will be plenty of radio controlled gear going up. (planes, boats, sail boats & cars) not to mention the odd beer or 2.

Looking to be a good weekend, only 2 days left of work before a 5 day break for me.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Just got the parts. BUT THEY SENT THE WRONG ONES:mad: :confused: . When I spoke to them on the phone they said that PD 0419 would be the steering kit I need. But that is a tie-rod set for a smaller car. I now have PD 0454 (TTR servo saver bag) on order for tomorrow. Hope it is the right part number or this will be an expensive waste of money. At least the service is really quick-next day. I need to find a cheaper/better option. I don't want to buy a whole kit everytime I break 1 clip.

I will make some out of aluminium I think.

Cheers
Dicko.

[unknown person]

Im getting my clutch replacement on saturday!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thank god!!!!!!!!! then i can do some more jumping

I might have to sell my car cuz i might be getting a savage 25 by the end of october so it might be a goodbye from me but i will regularly send a post to c how all you guys r doing:(

[unknown person]

This forum has gone a bit quiet

Saturday is the best day to date. Im hopefully getting loads of stuff for my car (clutch, tyres and so forth), im getting a new phone and im getting ADSL!!!

[DCLXVI]

It's nice to have ADSL...I have 2,5 Mbit ADSL and 10 Mbit W/LAN aswell (overkill ;) )

It is quiet ob my end as the weather are bloody poor here :mad:

[unknown person]

10mb w/lan HS that is fast:eek:

2.5mbit connection thats faster than we can get. We can only get a 2mbit and im only getting 512kbit. I want VDSL 50-90mbit connection (depends hoow close you are to the connection)

Getting me Clutch 2morrow (id better or im going to go crazy:mad: :rolleyes: ) then i can put my car bk 2gether :D :D

[unknown person]

Finally i got my clutch, but im selling my car :eek: :( its on ebay, so im saving up for a savage ss or 25:D

Car runs fine, better than it was.

C u guys around

[DCLXVI]

Sorry to hear you are leaving us...good luck with your Savage though...(glad you did not get a T-Maxx)...

[unknown person]

Ill still be around this forum hopefully but not always

How come i shouldnt get a t-maxx? I saw one the other day and they looked pretty good, Ovbiously the design looks good but the overall performance is a bit......

[DCLXVI]

The T-Maxx are probably not a bad MT...I still hate it though...just the thought of putting a .15 in a MT, no matter how strong it is are revolting...

And, as I have heard, you need to put $$$ in to it to make it stand up to abuse...

[dicko]

Gday,

I just got back from a nice week away from work & now I have to endure two whole days till the week end. I have seen quite a few MTs with 0.15s in them. they aren't that bad, especially the Traxxas 0.15. I want that engine, it is much better than the O.S. 0.15.

I have had some problems with the drive cups coming loose even with locktite on the thread. I am going to dremell a small hole into the diff gears to set the grub screws into, hopefully that will solve the problem.

I also bought a new Duratrax Nitro Evader. This is one insane car. The adjustable steering and gearbox ( adjustable ball bearing diff) are much better than the TTR DT-10 and a 0.18 engine made by O.S. is insane. The plastic parts come with a 1 year stress test warranty, so if you break it they replace it at no cost. You can even get aluminium hubs, bulk heads and shock towers as upgrades. Much quicker and gruntier too. Side mounted engine, rear battery box and central fuel tank means it is really well balanced over jumps. I ran it against 3 other stadium trucks on the local track with the DT-10 and they both are as fast (evader faster, except for the traxxas powered truck) than the others. I am keeping the DT-10 aswell as it is still a good car. It was good to get the trucks out against some others on the track. All good fun.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

Well, I've finally done it... The car flipped and rolled 2½ times and landed on the wheels. I saw the money just flying away, mainly because I ran the car naked and expected a disaster but fortunately I only broke one body post. Those body posts really suck...

So now I wonder are these standard body post or do I have to buy special ones?

Anyway, I thought the car ran like lightning today. Either it was because I forgot how fast it was going or it enjoyed the pause it had in the "garage". :) Might have been the weather too.
But the most important is, I had really fun. Whish I could take the car out more often.

Over and out...

[DCLXVI]

If I had flipped the car like that I would have snapped my diff casing...

I havent used the stock bodyposts for soon one year...I have tried differnet methods but my current fix are the best by far...I haven't brokrn one single part since I installed the roll-cage...

Dicko, I was entertaining thoghts of buying the DuraTrax Evader BX (electric) but for now I will settle with a TXT-1... ;)

Oh, and I think that the TRX 2,5 engine might havve more power but from what I have heard the OS engine are MUCH more reliable...

[dicko]

That new traxxas 0.15 hasn't been around long, but everyone is raving about it. I guess it will just be a matter of time to see how reliable it is. If it does rev at 50000rpm you'd think something would give a little sooner than the O.S.

I am still having trouble with the drive cups coming loose on the DT-10. I will have a go at putting some old inner diff gears in tonight & see if they hold any better.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I started to dimantle the car yesterday...I will make a kit out of it...IE, every screw, every part will be taken out and cleaned...

I'll attach a pic of my chassi plate later...it looks as it has seen better days...

[dicko]

Yeah I know what you mean. You should see the plate on the Evader. I have only had it 1 week and there are some nice battle scars all ready. They really stand out because of the blue anodizing. That is one thing about the evader, you can get all aluminium hop up parts, but they are all anodized either blue or purple. I HATE ANO. But at least it is stronger than plastic. have fun dismantling. If I send you my car can you pull that apart & clean it too??;) :D . I often give it a quick squirt with metho & a wipe over (being carefull to keep away from the gears) to clean it off.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

It wasn't the drive cups that had come loose this time. I pulled out & completely rebuilt the diff last night and put it all back together. Then I realised that the problem still existed and that the wheel nut had come loose (don't know how I missed that). If I had realised that I could have saved myself some time last night:rolleyes: . Oh well, at least it is ready for a bash tonight.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I replaced the drive shafts and have ordered new drive cups as the old ones are severely worn. The spokes are no longer round, but elongated lense shapes, and the cups have rounded holes instead of slits. The car should perform much better when it is up & running again.

Very quiet lately, is there anybody out there?

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I'm here but my car are still in the process of being cleaned...all I have left now (exept assembly) are the steering spiders...

[shelter]

I'm around too...
The first snow came tonight... it was about 5cm of snow so I think it's the end of the R/C season here. :( I don't think I want to run the car in the snow... I might try one tank or something later tho' and see how it goes.

I've ordered new body posts...
I'm thinking of making a rollcage too, not sure if it will save the body posts from snapping tho'. And I really don't have any material to do the rollcage. Heh...

[DCLXVI]

Shelter, winter are closing in here to...no snow yet but it is below the freezing point in the morning and the evening... (and completly dark around 18:00)...

Anyways, the rollcage I made are "instead of" the rear body posts...and it protects the diff case...

The material for it are two 50 cm / 3 mm brass (mässing) available from Clas Ohlson or most hobby stores...soldering would be harder since a 180+W soldering iron would be nessecary but I think one could to with zip-ties...

(I have to fix the roll-cage though, it has become a bit bent)...

[DCLXVI]

Update pics:

New dampers (recognise them, dicko?)
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_259.jpg

Current status:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_260.jpg

Scratched up pretty bad:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_262.jpg

New hobby corner:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_263.jpg

[dicko]

Well summer is well on the way down under. We had our second plus 30 degree day on saturdy (33C) and the sun is rising before 5:30 in the morning and setting after 6:30 at night all ready. Bring on daylight saving so I can run the car after work.

My hobby desk is no where near that tidy. I have 4 cars on it at the moment and both the stadium trucks are partly dismantled. I just finished fixing the subaru last night so that and the frog are the only complete cars at the moment. I have an electric subaru in the box below the table too.

I need to get the hard springs for my evader. They come with the yellow (medium) ones as stock and no different baffles for the shocks (3 holes) so I will have to get some super heavy weight (50 or higher) shock oil to put in them. I am still waiting on the CV joints for the Evader and drive cups for the DT-10. Apparantly I am the first person in Australia to break a CV joint on the Evader. It broke because of a difficult landing (sideways rear wheel first) and only broke because the hub broke first and rolled the wheel under the car. They were so confident in the strength of them they didn't even have any in stock down here. So I may be waiting a while. The DT-10 has been put through its paces though.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Only reason the hobby room are that tidy is that I just fixed the table and light yesterday...

[shelter]

Nice pics!

Guess you have some adjusting to do when you'll put your car back together again. :rolleyes:

And after all is set I wouldn't run the car in the dirtiest place I could find, I'd stick to tarmac or something for a while. I know how dirty your car can be... :p

[dicko]

You should see all my cars. the cleanest is the subaru, I am trying to sell it. My hobby table is covered in newspaper. After I work on the cars I throw out a layer of paper along with all the oilly grit with it. But everything is still filthy:rolleyes:

Cheers
Dicko

[DCLXVI]

I'll probably just screw everything together and then worry about installing everything that is adjustable...

(I'll install new bearings everywhere and turnbuckles everywhere)...

[DCLXVI]

Quiet!?!

Now it has started to snow here aswell...I was sliding around driving to work just this tuesday (alot of people got stuck in the ditches), first snowfall of the year always yeild the same results...

Anyway, has any of you tried to measure in a .21 into the DT-10?
I was thinking about the 2-speed from the SSR aswell but I don't know how to solve the breaking...

I just custom made a reciver pack from 5 loose GP 2000 AA cells...boy was I nervous? But I pulled it of... :D I'll mount them in the rear of the truck and then mount the reciver up-side-down where the batterys are supposed to sit (that will lower the CoG somewhat) but my main objective are to move alot of weight backwards to make the truck more stable during jumps (I have a problem keeping my front-end up during jumping, lost a front rim to that last time I ran)...wheelys are also welcome ;)

I'll probably look into replacing the stock rims, especially those in the rear, I'd love to have hex-rims...problem is to find good looking rims that will fit (and then buying ALOT of them since I have so durn many tires)...

[dicko]

OS is bringing out a new engine. The 0.18, in a 0.12 block. It will be similar to the one they build for Duratrax. I am tempted to put my 0.18 into the TTR & buy the new Traxxas 0.15 to put in the Evader to race. Somewhere on this site they have allready started a thread about the new OS 0.18. I saw it yesterday.

Here is the link

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=143829

Where on the rear of the truck were you looking at mounting the battery pack? You would have to be careful to put it somewhere protected. Even the failsafe won't work without battery power.

Nice days down here, 20 degrees C, sunny days often light rain over night. I will be having a blast with the DT-10 this week end. My new rear axles came in yesterday, I am picking them up today & the car should be running shortly after I get home. My Evader is still waiting on parts:rolleyes: :mad: :( . I want to get them both running against each other.

Cheers
Dicko.

[pistole]

Hi you guys.

Just thought that I would drop by.

Cheers.

[dicko]

Cheers for dropping in. Hope you enjoyed your visit:D

DCL, didn't you just buy a new O.S. .15? Do you now have the "NEED MORE POWER" bug?? I think you will need to drill some new holes in the chassis to mount a .21.

Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Um, I did didn't I :o

Well this is more of a EK-4/Shumacher project...to se how much power the drive-train can take...(weakest link would be the out-drives and spur gear)...and I won't exactly get an expensive .21 either...I'll look for a used one...

[dicko]

The weekest link is definitely the drive axle (part # PD0374) I have gone through 2 of those all ready. I still have a cracking noise coming from somewhere in the gearbox when the car lands after jumps. I have checked everything and replaced all the dogbone and drive cups. I am now just going to drive it until it breaks. At least that way I will know what is making the noise;)

Be careful when you buy a used motor. Make sure you at least get a manifold. I had a 0.21 given to me but I couldn't buy a manifold to match. It would have ended up costing me more than a new engine just to get a manifold, pipe and glo plug for the old one.

Cheers
Dicko.

[LazeR_88]

hello Dclxvi :D Is ther many ppl with the TT DT-10 around here?? Never Seen a dt-0 in an american site.. thats wierd, isn´t it dcl?

[LazeR_88]

I think it could be fun with some modifiying to the standard TT pro.15, i have already made a nice job on the con rod, it is optimized to make no "drag"..

[DCLXVI]

Dicko : Funny you sould feel that way...I don't even have any wear on mine...?!?! I feel that the spur or the out-drives would last the least...so to speak...

Lazer, took me some seconds to connect why you started talking to me...:rolleyes:

Well, ThunderTiger are not as renownd in the US as it is here (here it is Kyosho as the BIG no. 1 while I feel that TT are a far behind second) but I think that TT's close relationship with Team AE will benefit them alot...

[LazeR_88]

does your clutch slip in the dt 10?? my does, do you know about a better one? maybe traxxas uses the same size.

[DCLXVI]

I don't think that I ever had that problem...I have changed now to a wespel anyways...

Do you have the black one of the white one?

[dicko]

I had the stock clutch melt on my dt-10 which caused it to slip at first then it would hardly engage. The replacement clutch is a vast improvement. I haven't worn one out yet. The replacement is dark grey in colour & much harder.

Cheers
Dicko.

[LazeR_88]

mine is black, and made out of a softer material than on my old kyosho.. what does a new vespel clutch cost, and how much does it improve acceleration?

[shelter]

Hiya!

I got 2 new rear body posts now, I got them for 40SEK. I thought it was a bit much for 2 small plastic parts but I got the nylon nuts and the screws too.

BTW, last time I was going to start my car I noticed that the pullstart kinda slipped (there were no resistance), it might have been temporary as I've noticed it before but not as much as this time.
It only happens once in a while tho'.

What do you think causes this?

[LazeR_88]

nothing dangerous.. it does on mine too.. kinda normal..

[DCLXVI]

I think I paid about 300 SEK for my clutch...

The cause of the slipping pull-start are probably the one-way bearing...As I recall you can dissasseble the pullstart and clean the shaft that goes into the engine (with an he in one end)...and it will work better for awhile...

[dicko]

You can clean it but as soon as you run the engine again it will be relubricated with fuel. It isn't uncommon. I have the problem on all 3 of my pullstart engines. I just don't worry about it.

Cheers
Jason.

[LazeR_88]

im with you dicko! its just waste of time..

[DCLXVI]

It works for a coulpe of minutes...but I agree that it is a bit much work for so little working time...

That problem are mostly what made me get a starter box...now I need to make some spacers for my engine mounts...(I made the mounts to short and placed the holes to far from the center)...

[shelter]

Ok, so it's nothing to worry about. That's all I wanted to hear. :)
Thanks for the answers!

[unknown person]

well hi every1

i sold my ttr dt-10 on ebay and it went for a considerable amount actually.

Anyway im going crazy without the noise and smell of nitro cars but i have resorted to the heli alot.

Everything looks good in this 4rum and a new member (welcome)
I had a lot of clutch probs with my car if you allready havent seen (stupid car) but i finally fixed it and i sold it.

I actually miss my car and doin jumps with it oh well only a couple more days till i get a new car ill tell u what i get when i get it.

c u 4 now:D

[unknown person]

well after posting that post i went onto ebay and brought meself a savage ss

will come to me in 2 weeks:(

but hey i got a new mt!!!

[DCLXVI]

Great...tell us how it goes when you get it...I'm still waiting for my TXT-1 but I'll run my DT-10 when the weather turns brighter...(it's pitch black here by 4-5 pm)...

[LazeR_88]

hopefully my spares is here today..

[dicko]

I had a lot of trouble tuning my car in on the week end. I had it running perfectly for about 5 seconds then it would bog down. I ended up tuning it in and holding the back wheels off the ground and revving it. When I revved it i watched the mixture screw wind itself in & richen the engine up:eek: :confused: :( . Never seen an engine do that before. I ended up replacing the needle with the one out of my old carbie as the o ring looked a little bigger. I looked on the carbies on my other 2 cars and they both have springs under the needle to stop this. There is no spring for the TTR carbie. A design flaw I think. I am going to look into fitting a spring in somehow. I haven't had a chance to run the truck to see if the problem is fixed yet. I hope it is.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

That sounds quite weird...never happend to me...

[dicko]

Really frustrating is what it is. I haven't had a chance to see if the thicker O ring has worked yet. I intend to pull the pin out again & rinse out the needle chamber & needle with some metho to clean it. It may have been slipping due to too much fuel in there lubricating it.

I am still waiting on CV joints for the Evader:mad: :confused: . been over a month now. Whenever something has to come in from overseas it always takes a long time. The only thing I know is running consistently is the subaru. But it is slow. Slow but reliable I guess.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I should have my CV joints for the evader in about 2 weeks. I can't wait. I will hopefully be able to drag the two trucks off then. I still haven't broken whatever is making the clacking noise in the DT-10 and it doesn't seem to be getting any worse. I guess I'll find out what it is sooner or later. hopefully nothing expensive and something I allready have a spare for.

Cheers
Dicko.

[LazeR_88]

clicking sound? what can cause this "clicking" sound, is it from the drive train? my car has never done any strange sounds, it is reliable as h*ll. It just goes on whatever happens to it.

[DCLXVI]

Dicko, try checking your spider gears...I found that I had some "******" or what you would call it...some small parts had come off...I don't know if that is the thing but in my car, it's either that ot the transmission bearing (heavy wear) thats making the sound...

I have not had any trouble with it but I have experienced it for some time...it is a bit irritating but probably nothing serious...

Lazer, broke anything yet? (apart from the front bulkhead?) or is it just me who are breaking diff housings?

[LazeR_88]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Dicko, try checking your spider gears...I found that I had some "******" or what you would call it...some small parts had come off...I don't know if that is the thing but in my car, it's either that ot the transmission bearing (heavy wear) thats making the sound...

I have not had any trouble with it but I have experienced it for some time...it is a bit irritating but probably nothing serious...

Lazer, broke anything yet? (apart from the front bulkhead?) or is it just me who are breaking diff housings?


the diff house may be extremely hard to damage. what i have seen from some pics, is that the part of the diff house, that holds the shock towers is weak. but mine is different. i think it is different versions.. mine seems to be VERY strong.

[dicko]

Well the mixture needle is fixed. I just had to put the one from the old carbie on (fatter O ring helped it to grip). As for the cracking/clicking sound, it only happens when the rear wheels land back on the ground under power. last time I heard the noise it was a worn drive axle. I have pulled the entire drive line from the bell gear to the rear axle apart and replaced everything slightly worn. I now have an almost compoletely new drive line. I checked the bearings & they seemed ok. But I can't put them under the same stresses the car can. So I will wait & see what breaks first. Odds are that is the part making the noise. I'm not too fussed, the car still goes & I have plenty of spares.

I have a spare rear bulk head & it is much bearlier than original (screws together) but the shock tower mounts are still likely to break first.

Oh, just remembered, loose drive cups make the same noise, but they are so tight, I don't know if I will ever get them off.

Cheers
Dicko.

[LazeR_88]

when the drive cups is loose, they make extreme noise. mine did. but will never make it again! locktited with the hardest locktite.. :D

[dicko]

Trust me, they will come loose again. Mine did. I have everything locktited. Its amazing how nitro can vibrate screws loose. But so far so good. going to have a blast tonight. I wonder if the noise will show itself???

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I think the problem with the set screws in the drive cups are that they wear so after awhile there are nothing that acually presses upon the shaft...

[LazeR_88]

there is a "slot" in the diff gear axles.. so it not just pressed into place by a set screv..

[DCLXVI]

More or less since the hole in the drive cup is round (mine is anyway)...

[LazeR_88]

Nitro-rc.has.it dosnt work.. WHY??????

[DCLXVI]

It sould be working now...I have had some downtime due to a faulty HD and to little time to fix it...

(use http://dclxvi.no-ip.info instead, it works better)

[dicko]

If you know a friend who works as a tool maker or similar job, you can get them to drill a divet into the flat spot on the diff gear axles. This lets the screew from the drive cup slot into it for even better bite. But it has to be lined up perfectly. I figure it isn't worth the hassle seeing as though they wear out pretty quick anyway.

Had a good run on the week end. the noise is still there but the car is still running so I'm still waiting for it to get worse/break. I am still not sure where it is coming from.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Seems to me that another method of securing the drive cups to the out-drives are in order...hmm...

[dicko]

It is a bit tricky, you have to get the right sized drill to make the hole in exactly the right spot. I found putting the drive cup on and marking the position through the hole a good start. Then drilling the hole in the centre of the flat section along the mark. If you drill the hole off centre slightly that is where the screw will end up. So good clamping and precise drilling are a must.

Basically I put it in the too hard for the amount of good running you get out of it basket. Drive cups are cheap compared to the amount of time spent getting the divets drilled. I have a few spare in my box. when they go I just put new ones on.

Cheers
Dicko.

[shelter]

I haven't replaced a part on my car yet, except for 1 manifold screw (the long black ones), 1 rear body post, the "fuel lines" and the little pin holding the one of the rear wheels.

I guess I drive more safely than you guys. :) I prefer running on tarmac aswell, the car gets so dirty otherwise.
Don't have many "offroad possibilites" close to where i live, no good ones at least.

But the day will come when I have to open the diffcasing and stuff, when I think about it I get a bit nervous. :)

[dicko]

You will be surprised at how simple it all really is inside there. Just keep the exploded diagram near you, it is helpfull in case you put something down out of order. 8 gears in total from the bell gear through the drivetrain and diff to the drive cups. That's all.

[LazeR_88]

My parts came yesterday. The optional pipe did a small gain in acceleration and top speed, and it is screaming much more now :D This bulkhead looks a little bit stronger than stock piece.. but i couldnt compare it to the old one, cause i have threw it away..

[dicko]

Hellooooooo..........Is anybody there............?

Pretty quiet lately. Haven't had much of a chance to take any of the cars out for a spin. I will start them all up for a blast tonight to run some fuel through the engines so that they don't gum up. We have just had a week of +30deg C temp. Thunderstorms due midday, but no drop in temp expexted. Woohoo, summer is here.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Gaak...summer?!?...here winter are fast approaching...temperature are already well below zero during the night and my car was coverd with snow this morning... :(

This is mainly the reason I'm so quiet (that and the fact that I'm still waiting for my TXT-1)...

[dicko]

I am still waiting for the cv joints for the evader. 2 months now. how ridiculous is that, if I had gone with mailorder I would have had it a month & a half ago. I starte the engine up every couple of weeks & let it idle to stop it gumming up, but I can't wait to run it properly with 4 wheels instead of 3. I might go in today & see if they have an update.

[dicko]

Still no cv joints. $#%^@ not happy. looks like I won't get them till after Xmas. I don't know why the stockist can't keep stock, especially if they are the only ones in a country who stock that brand.

sorry for the rant.

looks like th dt-10 is the go for a long while to come yet. Hope it doesn't break something out of stock.

[dicko]

I ran the DT-10 against a Traxxas Tmaxx yesterday. I was surprised at how well The DT-10 stood up. I had the low profile tyres on(lots of grip, less top end speed) and started off running too rich. But even then the Tmaxx was only just pulling away from it. After I leaned out the mixture to get it tuned just right it was closer still. If I had the Dirtpaws on it would have been an even race, the tyres I was running are only slightly bigger than the rims, so I gave away a bit of speed with them. It was good to get out & give it a bit of a thrash.

That cracking noise has me completely stumped now. I never found it but it has gone. The whole time I ran the truck yesterday I never heard the noise. I am hoping it fixed itself. I think it was a bearing which is now either sufficiently lubricated (I haven't cleaned the car in a while & there is oil everywhere) or it is so worn it can't make the noise. I will have a look tonight when I clean it.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dirtbike]

wow i just found this forum and i am glad i am not the only one that has this thunder tiger stadium truck. well i am glad to of found people that have it besides me. and let me start off by saying that. i have had it for just about a year now, it was my first car that i got for christmas last year. heres what i have done to it. i got a new steering servo, new controller, new crystals, durbo fuel filter, purple fuel line. proline masher 2000 monster tires, and some new 30wt oil in all shocks, and side exhust gasget. here are some pictures that i took with my webcam so sorry about the quality. there here on my website
www.geocities.com/nitroandelectricrc/thundertiger.html (http://www.geocities.com/nitroandelectricrc/thundertiger.html)

i have had it for 1 year now and have only ran half a gallon through the engine. i love this truck its strong, and thats why i have not had to replace anything cause the parts are really strong.

[DCLXVI]

Nice of you to find your way over here DirtBike, I'm DCLXVI from the ACE board...I would have sugessted for you to come here earlier but I felt I had left enough ads for this board already... ;)

Nice to hear that your truck are doing fine, I have not had the chance to run my DT-10 a long time due to difficulties with the weather (cold and now, snow)...I had some problem with parts breaking but that was just body pins and diff casing but that is fixed now with my custom roll-cage, now it is acually near to bullet-proof (last time I broke something it was a front rim). Speaking of rims, I'm on the look-out for a replacement rim but I don't like most of the ones on the market (either to flashy or just the flat disc, racing style) so I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what rims might work for the DT-10 (both front and rear, rear, preferably with hex)...

Could you guys check out my homepage (WWW below) and check if it loads to slow or if it is ok...

[dirtbike]

your home page works just fine. and hey i want to see pictures of your truck if possible post some here that you took, expecially ones with the roll cage on. and i was woundering i need all 4 stock rims that comes with the dt10, where can i get them. i just need the 2 front and 2 rear rims.

[dicko]

Tower hobbies have them, but I prefer the Proline style of rim. They shed the grime better than the stock ones. Instead of having oily dirt build up in the rims, it is spun off and keeps the rear wheels cleaner. Plus they are lighter and allow better acceleration. The last place you want to have weight is in the wheels.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dirtbike]

i cant find them on tower hobbies. and i want the stock one, if you can give me the link to where i can buy the stock ones, that would be great

[dicko]

try e hobbies, they are at www.ehobbies.com it can be difficult to find what you want though. What country are you in? If you are in Australia I have the number for the Importer. If you can find out who your nearest importer is you can call them direct to find out the nearest stockist, or even order through them.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

I had a chance to have a look around on the web for the wheels. I could only find one UK shop on the net that stocks them, and they were rediculously priced. I know Kellet's Hobbies in sydney stock them and mail them, but they don't have email:rolleyes: . Can't help you more than that, sorry. I was surprised ehobbies don't have them.

[unknown person]

yo all

mi savage came friday!!!!:D :D :D , but ive broke it already:rolleyes: :( , i was cutting out the shocks and somehow i cut them in the wrong places and now all the shocks leak!!!!!!!!!

apart from that wow what a truck. it is beasty as hell. The tyres are bigger than i thought!

i wonder what mi dt-10 is doing (hhhhmmmm) id dread to think! (probably in bits)

will post some pics and get a website up and running (if i have time, dam GCSES)

[dirtbike]

i live in michigan, umm the stock rims that i need, do you think i can call ace up and order them with the part number.

[dicko]

worth a try. if you got it from a hobby shop you could call them up & order it through them. If you have a part number ie PD6010 you shouldn't have a problem ordering a part as long as you deal with someone who can order TTR. It looks like Ace is the US importer from what I can work out on the TTR homepage.

http://61.221.10.42/english/indexmain.htm

Good luck.

[DCLXVI]

Some pics of my DT-10...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_251.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_246.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_237.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_187.jpg

[dicko]

My DT-10 is much much dirtier than that:D ;) . It is still waiting to be cleaned. won't happen this weekend, I am flat out till next monday with sailing titles, riding, work & xmas dinners. I don't know why I have xmas dinners a whole month before xmas, oh well, I will enjoy the free alcohol. The part for my Evader may have arrived. I'll look into it today.

Have fun getting that thing dirty, I like the new blue paint job.

Cheers
Dicko

[DCLXVI]

I'm ALWAYS up for free alcohole... :D

All that dirt in the 2nd pic was from one (1) tank (break-in of OS engine, running castor oil)...

The body is purple not blue :mad: :P I used candy purple and silly me backed it with black...:rolleyes:

[DCLXVI]

Oh, and btw, I got a new radio yesterday...a Hitec Agressor CRX...computer radio w. 20 model memory, 3ch, channel mixing and loads of features...It will come in handy soon when I get my TXT-1 (one radio, several kits)...

[dicko]

I am looking at getting the JR version which can run different frequencies with the one set of crystals. I will then be able to set up one reciever for all my cars and adjust the frequency if someone is running one the same as mine. Hopefully I will get it early next year. My budget is shot.

Blue - purple, it still looks good. Next pic needs some dust/dirt/oil on it.

[DCLXVI]

It will take awhile for me to get dirt on the body as it is freezing here, I won't go outside to start a nitro engine, my fingers will fall off... :(

[dicko]

we have plus 30 degrees C for the next few days. have to be carefull not to cook your engines down here. not that that will be a problem for me, I don't have time to start em up:( . Sunday night I will have a few hours to annoy the neighbourhood hopefully.

[dirtbike]

cool pictures, does anyone else have any more pictures of there thunder tiger, i would like to see more.

[dicko]

I have a picture of my Subaru somewhere, but none of my stadium trucks or buggy. Maybe I should do something about that. My friend has a digital camera, I may have to borrow it.

[dirtbike]

yea you should try and do that. we might be getting one before christmas, and the only way i took pictures of mine was with my web cam which take crappy pictures.

[dicko]

My cv joints for the evader arrived. I picked up a hitec HS 625 MG servo while I was there for the stearing on the evader too. I am now smiling again. will be good to get the two stadium trucks running against each other this week end.

[dirtbike]

i am thinking on selling my thunder tiger stadium truck, so i can get the new xtm mamonth, and i want to know since you all here are thunder tiger stadium truck owners, what do you think i can get for my dt-10.

as clean as it is with only a 1/2 gallong through the engine, along with new controller, new crystals, new steering servo, proline tires, fuel filter, side exhust gasget, and the stupid purple fuel line,

its all mint so what do you think i can get for it.

[dicko]

unfortunately as soon as you open the box it is considerably devalued. consider yourself lucky to get 2/3 what you paid for it if it is as good as what you said. I don't know conversion factor or what the U.S. price is new, we pay less here than you guys do for a new truck.

look on ebay & see what they are getting for a similar truck. then compare the price of the other truck to what you paid for the TTR. that should give you a rough asking price.

[dicko]

I blew the gasket out from between the exhaust manifold and the head on the weekend. I heard the exact moment it went, sounded terrible. Now the engine is completely covered with exhaust oil, I have to clean it up tonight. I broke another CV joint in the Evader in a spectacular cartwheel after landing a jump wrong. It is a good thing I had a spare. The evader is considerably faster than the DT-10. But I still like the DT-10. I broke the front and one rear body post on the DT-10 aswell, upside down landings aren't the best way to finish the day.

[DCLXVI]

I have found that liquid gasket works quite good...the trouble is to get it were you wan't it and not everywhere else...

[dicko]

I have found that thread lock (the high temp one) works well too, but you have trouble cleaning it up. I will just make another cardboard one out of a manilla folder.

[dicko]

A piccie of the fleet, sorry it is a bit dark.

[dicko]

notice how much lower the Evader body sits on the chasis compared to the DT-10, I have to be carefull running it in hot weather. The DT-10 has better cooling because the body is higher.

[DCLXVI]

I really like the painting on the DuraTrax...it looks sharp espec for being a factory painted body...(espec compared with the DT-10, I wish they would have made a nicer scheme for it)...

My spares are probably in (drive axles and drive cups) but I'll have to wait for wedensday to pick them up (overtime at works to day and tomorrow is ladundry day :( ), I'll pick up some turnbuckles for it to...tree pairs ought to do it...

I'm thinking about getting some carbon fibre and cutting a custom upper deck that would me MUCH smaller than the stock one (mounting as much as possible directly on the lower chassi)...but as for now, I have nothing to cut the carbon and I have nowhere to cut it...I will probably pick up a Dremel soon (I have a gift certificate for about 40 USD at the "hardware" store)...then we will se...

I'm still pondering the possibility of getting some other rims, (with hexes), did I ask about the differences between the DuraTrax and the TT rims? If I didn't, do tell... :)

Anyways, STILL WAITING FOR MY TXT-1 and the DT-10 are in pieces :( , soon I'll rebuild it but I seriosly doubt that I will run it before spring (about mars/april) as the weather will not really allow extended periods of running a nitro truck (electric on the other hand is much better during the winter as there is much less fiddeling with the car)...

Opps, long post... :D

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by shelter
Took the car out today... here's the aftermath:
http://wilderness.concepts.nl/~shelter/DT-10_dirty.jpg

Time for some cleaning don't you think? :)
I'm gonna remove the engine today so I can clean it and so I can clean under the engine properly too. It wasn't that hard to remove it and get it back, right?

BTW, today's my birthday, I turn 25... if you find that intresting. :)

I was checking back some on the old disscutions and found this pic. I remember I used to run the fuel line that way but I stopped after a peculiar thing happend - I was running as usual (witch means quite hard but not all that good ;) ) and when I stopped I noticed that the fuel line now was above the spur/cluch gears...what I like to know was how the hell that could have happend as there were no marks what so ever of ANY wear on the fuel line (I checked carefully)... :confused:

Another think I noticed was that we all break really different things, I have broken several diff casings but dicko, you have replaced at least two PD0374 while I hardly see any wear what so ever on mine...also if I recall correctly pistole complained that he broke the rear shock tower "all the time" while that has happend to me one time but that was from a 2-3 meter drop straight down, car practically landing on the tower, on stone (the one I have now is a bit bent but not even close to breaking)...

It is a bit confusing but I guess that it really showes that we all have different driving styles and are doing different things with our trucks...the one thing that amazes me is that, for all the abuse I have put my DT-10 through, I have never broken any of the A-arms...and I have really, really done stuff that ought to have made them "build togethers"...like hitting a brik wall WOT at about 30 degree impact angle, I ripped the rear hubs and front spindels and two rims but the arms fron and back held... (the "turnbuckles looked like hockey clubs if you know what I mean)...and that was in sub-zero weather as well...

I guess that you could say I'm not to fond of returning to the cleaning of my apartment... :rolleyes:

[unknown person]

Dam car i broke it allready and havent even got to break it in yet!!!!!

The shocks have tiny pin holes where i cut them out from the plastic moulds!! so im sendin them back to hpi and complainin

ill get some pics of it and put them on a web page or summink


c ya 4now

[DCLXVI]

I guess all "good" things sould be three right...

I don't think that I posted the pics of my new body (well one but what the heck)...

Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher painted with: Pactra Outlaw black, Pactra Candy Purple, Humbrol Silver...

Custom masking with Bob Divley's liquid masking.

Same body but this looks a bit better...(not as cracked up)...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_236.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_237.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_238.jpg

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/Photos/Small/IMG_239.jpg

I messed up the purple part witch makes the body appear black on the pics but it looks dark dark purple when you see it for real...

[dicko]

I ran my fuel line like that until I discovered a couple of wear marks where the fly wheel had been rubbing on the line. That could have been dangerous. I now run it overtop & away from spinning gears. The Duratrax rims as far as I can tell are Proline rims. They are simple dish or cone rims but have a larger diameter hole for the axle than the DT-10. They are still breakable (I have both rear wheels internal rim cracked) but are a lot lighter & easier to clean. because of their shape they spin off the dirt & exhaust oil instead of accumulating it inside the rim.

I completely cleaned the DT-10 last night.. That pic of yours was looking clean in comparison. I had 1cm of buildup in some places. I pulled the engine out & stripped it to clean it. One new manifold for the exhaust and a rebuild & it all ran sweet. Hope the neighbours didn't mind me running it at 8pm last night:D

One thing to note, wrap a bit of electrical tape round your battery packs. I had a flip last night at the RC track & the car landed on its rear. result: one battery came out of the pack leaving me out of control. No failsafe will work with a sudden loss of power, so luckily for me the engine stalled before it landed on all four wheels. Yes the carbie was in WOT when I checked. Very close call considering I backed off as I hit the jump & it landed in idle.

[DCLXVI]

Well, that is always the way it is...thanks to Murphy, the car always goes WOT if you loose the power or for some other reason loose control...never ever on low RPM/idle...go figure :rolleyes:

Hmm...DuraTrax have larger holes...then I will have to check out the AE/Kyosho rims or mabey (god forbid) Traxxas rims...I'm not really certain that I want dish wheels though, I don't think that they will fit with the body...

[dicko]

For the front it isn't a problem, just put the right bearings to suit and your fine. Proline make rims to fit many cars, so you would probably have to drill them out to fit the Duratrax. I like the bigger holes, it means the axles are thicker & stronger, but I still broke the rear axle on the Evader with a hard landing to cartwheel. But you're right they don't suit the body you are running. Most rims I've seen are the dish style, only monster truck rims come with different designs, but they are only a little bit too big;) .

which reminds me, I have a problem when I run the dirtpaws, the tyre hits the exhaust pipe when I turn, I have bent the support wire as much as I can to shift the pipe out of the way, but it still hits. I need a shorter pipe, but then the engine won't be in tune. I might go back to stadium truck racing tyres for the summer, the ones on the Evader are really grippy in the dry, and they haven't worn out yet either. Proline front & rear, I am impressed.

[dirtbike]

here i have my thunder tiger for sale so i can get a mt.
It has a .15 pro engine (1/2 gallon through it), new controller, new steering servo, new glow plug, and new crystals, and rechargeable glow starter, alunium blue fuel filter, cool purple gas lines, Factory painted Ford F-150 Lexan body.
• 4 large capacity, oil filled, composite shocks.
• Double deck T6 aluminum chassis.
• 30 degree front kick-up.
• Strong, fiberglass reinforced composite parts.
• Adjustable fr/rr camber and fr toe-in.
• Single disc brake system.
• Durable gear differential..
• Performance manifold & tuned pipe.
• Oil filled composite shocks.
• Rear dog bone and drive axle.
• Standard 1/10 stadium truck tires.
• Proline masher 2000 monster truck tires on it

i am asking 280 shipped or obo RTR, or i can take all the radio gear off and put the stock tires back on it and sell it for $200 shipped, and the stock tires are like brand new, never used much.

anyone want it. make offer. i really want money so i can get a mt

[dicko]

Sorry, I allready have one. I don't need another, I get in enough trouble with the trucks I have.

DCL try

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline.html

click on products, then the truck, then go to wheels. the traxxas ones (agitator) look pretty trick. They would suit your truck. You wouldn't want to scratch them though.

[dirtbike]

anyone want it

[DCLXVI]

Na, I don't really need another one...

[dirtbike]

come on you guys dont even make offers.

[LazeR_88]

Why should we buy a car we already have?? think i will buy a new engine soon, dcl, what about the tranny gears? will they wear like h*ll with a new engine?

[dicko]

If you get an engine with similar specs, which you will if you get a 0.15, you should be fine putting it in the DT-10.

My cracking noise from the rear end has finally resulted in slipping. I will pull the truck apart tonight & find out what it was making the noise. I also broke a connecting rod in the engine of the Evader. I have no idea why it broke, I ran the engine in perfectly and the car was running on open flat terrain when it broke. I wasn't running it rich or lean. I now can't find any mail order place that stocks the part I need. Guess that car is on the shelf for a while again. But it runs so well when it runs, very frustrating.

[DCLXVI]

I don't see any problem what so ever with the spur after I've ran the CV-R...as long as you mesh the gears properly it sould be fine...I'd guess that you could drop the new OS .18 CV-R in there...as long as you re-gear it...(I'd say that with proper gearing you could put a .26 big block in there as it won't increase the load that much)...

[dirtbike]

hey everyone i am just woundering but, home come the dt10 is not popular, lol, all i hear from other people and on other forums is that its a crappy car. i wish it was a little more popular so that i could get mine sold, lol.

[dicko]

It isn't an American design & it is a new truck on the scene. Give it a few years & a few upgrades & you will see more people buying it. There hasn't been any wins in competition and it hasn't been around long enough for people to get to know it. I bet the people who are bagging it have never owned one. for a beginner they are a good stadium truck at a very good price.

[DCLXVI]

Also it has a good (almost) great engine and are quite durable...(mine's almost bulletproof)...

[dirtbike]

i thought they have been out for 2 years, i got mine 1 year ago for my first car and i think its great for people who are not beginners, i think we should all tell people that want a stadium truck to get the dt10.

[dicko]

Plus they are dead easy to work on. In half an hour, last night I replaced the drive axle, spur gear and diff.

I finally found the clacking noise. Where the pin from the drive axle sits in the spur gear was badly worn (the pin had ripped up the spur gear & enbedded itself in there). but the car was still driving on that ok. The spur gear and diff were both slightly worn and skipping teeth occasionally which is why I was losing drive. I replaced all the gears between the bell gear & the drive cups & it runs sweet now. I will now have to order all new spares.

When you know how to pull as little off the truck as possible to replace parts you can save yourself heaps of time. I only undid 7 screws to get the diff casing off & gears out. I just undo the tie rod ends to get the dog bones out first.

[DCLXVI]

You can get the dogbones out without loosening the tie-rods...just "wiggle" the entire diff casing as it comes loose...5 screws with the old diff casing and 9 with the newer (the newer diff casings requires four more screws to dissassemble then the old one)...

[dicko]

I find it easier & quicker to get the dog bones back in if you ondo the tie rods. I used to pull them out like that, but when you are in a hurry its easier to undo them. I don't think I would bother using those 4 screws on the diff casing, especially since I have all ready pulled them out of the pack & used them on the evader. Don't forget the screws on the brake housing, you need to undo 2 of them to get the diff casing out.

I want to take the truck for a run tonight, but I have to work on my real car (replace the water pump). I might get time to do both.

[dirtbike]

hey i thought of something, i know how rc magazines and rc site do reviews on cars and truck, but have any of them done a review on the dt10. if the have not i think they should. then it might be a little more popular truck.

[dicko]

the easiest way to get that done is to write the review yourself, compare it to a few other similar brands (include specs and price comparisons) and add a few pictures, then send it out to a few online magazines & see if they bite. good luck.

cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Thats right, I forgot about those two...

I use the four screws on the diff casing, better safe than sorry...

[dicko]

I gave it a quick run last night (1/2 a tank) and it ran perfectly, it needs a little tuning, but other than that it was spot on. here sits one happy driver.

[mattmoon]

hey guys , ive had my Dt-10 for about a year now.. most of the time has been spent in a box in my closet, im having a few problems and would like some advice on how to fix it. this is my first nitro car and i love it when it works but everytime i get it out it seems to just demolish my spur gear, ive tried several different engine placements and they all seem to end up ruining the spur gear! if yall have any ideas let me in on it

[dicko]

When you mesh the bell & spur gear together, place a piece of paper (photo copy paper is about the right thickness) between the gears. push the engine across firmly so that the paper is wedged in beween the bell & spur gear, but don't push too hard. then tighten two diagonally opposite screws to hold the engine in place. put loctite on the other two screws & screw them in. then undo the first two and loctite them & rescrew them in. pull out the paper & grease the gears. you should be able to push the car along the ground without hearing the gears grinding together, and the car should roll freely. I have never stripped a spur gear that has been put in like this. good luck.

[mattmoon]

hey dicko, thanks for the info. i just got a new body for my truck and im paintin it silver with red flames down the side and on the hood.. Ive noticed that alot of other trucks i have seen have many aluminum parts can u get these for the dt-10?

[dicko]

Not that I know of. If you know someone who can work a CNC machine you can give tham a part you want and they can create it. I have a friend who can do it but he is too busy to have time to make what I need. I have got aluminium parts for my Nitro Evader ST, but the drawback of ali parts is that you end up breaking something else, usually a more expensive part. I put aluminium hubs on my evader & broke a CV joint. Personally I wouldn't bother upgrading to Ali.

The body sounds like it will look pretty sweet.

[mattmoon]

hey all, ill try to get some pics of my cars posted, i had a wicked run today i set up a 3 foot ramp and flew over a ditch. this thing can haul! i like to chase around the dogs with it they love it.
see ya

[mattmoon]

hey anybody else alive out there?

[DCLXVI]

We sure are...we are waiting for the pics you promised... :)

[dicko]

I feel a little flat today, 1 xmas do down, too many to go, another one tonight & I'm not sure the liver can keep up with me. i know I'm going to have a headache on the week end, nothing a little screaming nitro engine won't help:D . looking forward to it.

where are you from mattmoon? I'm from Adelaide South Australia.