TTR Dt-10

[mattmoon]

eh im from texas, im still in highschool so i dont have much experience with r/c. do any of yall fly rc planes? im still workin on the body but wen i have it done ill take some pics and maybe have a few action photos too. im not real familiar with this site so itll take a little bit of figuring out before i have picsc on here

[dicko]

I don't fly planes, but one a couple of my friends do, one of them has too many to mention, I think he is up to 2 gliders and 4-5 powered planes.

[unknown person]

well,

i got mi savage fixed hpi fixed it for free and put some extras on by the looks of it. So all i need now is radio and im away

i know this is stupid on this forum but heres a sneek preview of mi car

[shelter]

Neat car unknown person! Looks cool...

Well, I haven't posted here much.. and I guess you can understand why, there's no way near outdoor r/c season here. Heh...

BTW, there's a game for PC called R/C Cars, I haven't tried it yet tho'... but it could be fun.

I'll be back... :)

[shelter]

Just noticed that we got most replys/posts in the thunder tiger section of this forum! :)

The EK4 forum got waaaaay more views tho'.

[dicko]

The Evader ST forum is pretty quiet. I don't think a lot of people run them either, pitty, it is a good truck. This forum is the most active I've been on.

[DCLXVI]

I played R/C Cars some today...it's not much, fun for awhile but there an older game called Re-Volt that is much more amusing, altough, it's not as realistic, then on the other hand R/C Cars are not realistic either...

I started to rebuild my DT-10 today, I've done the front and rear A-arms and the front skidplate/bulkhead and shock-tower, I also started put the diff together, I think I have to replace the spider gears soon because they are not that smooth and the seem to be binding somewhat...but running it is usually a different story...

[dicko]

Is that the Duratrax RC car game? I know they have one out or coming out very soon. It is in there 2004 catalogue. I'd rather do the real thing, but sometimes the weather won't let me. It is nearly 40 deg C all week this week, so the trucks are put on hold till it cools down, I don't want to destroy another engine.

[DCLXVI]

Na...R/C Cars are just some arcade game made for P/S2 and PC...

DuraTrax RealRace G2 seems to be really good...it's like ~90 USD tough...

[dicko]

something to put on the Xmas list. I need a better pc at home though, I use a unix station at work, but I can't load games onto it, IT have put a ban on loading software onto computers unless they do it. My home PC is so old it is listed on the fossil record.

[dirtbike]

hey i got a new digitial camara and i took lots of pictures of my dt10, take a look now and tell me what you think, http://www.geocities.com/nitroandelectricrc/thundertiger.html

[DCLXVI]

Link doesn't seem to be working...

[shelter]

Originally posted by dirtbike
hey i got a new digitial camara and i took lots of pictures of my dt10, take a look now and tell me what you think, http://www.geocities.com/nitroandelectricrc/thundertiger.html

Neat wheels, what brand/type is it? I think I have to get those myself... :)

[DCLXVI]

Those are Pro-Line Masher 2000...I have one pair but they were a bit to big for my liking...

[unknown person]

Originally posted by dicko
It is nearly 40 deg C all week this week, so the trucks are put on hold till it cools down, I don't want to destroy another engine.

What!!, its -1 deg c over here in UK, it sucks

thats shelter for the comment

tell u what comparing a .15 size engine to a .25 is a hell of a difference!!

might start the car up tonight and run it in, so ill post on what has happened! (ill put a link from the hpi savage ss forums)

[dicko]

It's still too hot to run the cars, looks like 33 deg plus till after the week end. This is my last day at work for a couple o weeks. Looking forward to the xmas beer drinking & new year shenanigans. My parts got shipped from tower hobbies yesterday so I should have all 3 car/trucks running again shortly. Hopefully the weather will cool down a bit so I can run them. The DT-10 is sitting on the floor of my hobby room just waiting to go, new tyres, new gears & new batteries, I even have 5L of fuel in the fridge waiting to be burnt.

Merry Xmas & happy new year, incase I don't post again before hand.

[mattmoon]

yeeeehawwww!... happy christmas, im still waitin for parts for my dt-10 its drivin me insane! do yall know of any websites or places i could call to order new parts? im seriously thinking about taking my whole car down to a friend of mine and tellin him to make everything aluminum. have u ever heard of anyone just makin their own car? without a kit or anything just out of scratch? just another project im thinkin about tryin... see ya later
merry new year

[dicko]

I have seen a complete home made car (except the engine) but getting all the suspension angles and stearing set up was a nightmare for the guy. He only ever did one, then started to alter ones he bought. It can be done, but research your angles, stearing design & gear/diff set up before you get all gung-ho. It isn't as easy as it looks.

Too many beers at lunch, i feel a bit seedy.

Once again merry xmas & happy new year. it's almost time to go home & have a few beers/rum/anything with grog in it.

[unknown person]

hhhhmmmmmmmmmmm, forums gone a bit quiet, spose it is crimbo, but hey!!

Havent been able to run the savage in yet cuz i havent had time, but i got a 2 stroke started, that was fun (old strimmer engine)

hows everyones cars doing?

Happy Crimbo

Dan

[DCLXVI]

Been away from here for awhile :(

Been working on my new TXT-1...this thing is massive... :D

I had a question for you dicko, could you take a really close pic for me at the upper shock mount of your Evader? I'm really interrested to know how the shock spacers look like...

[unknown person]

DCL, i saw the pics of ur txt on ur website, it looks well big, same size as mi sav by the looks of things

i got mi savage run in and by god is it loud, you can compare it when the dt-10 is on full throttle, its loud right?, well thats the noise the sav makes when on idle!!!! full throttle is out of this world

hopefully when i get mi webpage up and runnin (workin on it) ill put some vids and pics on there!!

[Monkeyman1]

Can someone please help. I own a new dt-10 and the exhaust fell off earlier on. I have found one screw so had to use another of my own . I screwed it back on but now the engine is making a terrible noise and the clutch isn't engaging. the flywheel spins slowly. Please help me out. thanks. By they way I am 17 and live in the uk.

[DCLXVI]

As for the engine sounding terrible that could be the exhaust gasket (it sitts between the engine and the exhaust) that is broken or missing...

Also, check the cluch and related parts so that there aren't any loose parts...

[Monkeyman1]

Thanks I've done that and used some instant gasket and pushed the shoes bak onto the flywheel. After doing that, I realised that there was a clicking noise when i drove the car and discovered that i had also chewed up the diff gears. since sorting out the clutch I also discovered that when i try to brake the car just whines carries on and then locks up. What can i do to stop all this from happening as i dont have hardly any money at all. while I am saving up for these things are there any other spare iems that I should get and any tune ups that would help me enjoy my car more than what I am. Thanks for any help.


P.S where shall I order my parts from in the uk or shall I use e-hobbies.

P.P.S The dt-10 is a super quick car

[Monkeyman1]

One other thing. I have rounded the heads on my exhaust and engine mount screws. What can i do about getting them out. Thanks

[dicko]

Hi all, just got back from a nice relaxing break, ran both the cars a fair bit without any damage WOOHOO:D :) :p . The only problem I had was the standard one where the drive cups come loose. I found some old Tamiya body posts that are really long so I screwed them onto the diff casing and they work really well and flex a fair bit, so they don't break. The evader is running really well, I am picking up a new radio gear for it today (the JR digital display one).

Monkeyman, use a manilla folder to make a new gasket instead of using gasket goo. Just greast the port on the engine and press a piece of cardboard cut off of a folder onto it. You will then have an outline to cut out for your new gasket. As for the rounded heads, cut them off with a dremmel, pull off the exhaust and then use pliers to undo the screws from the manifold. You may find that once you have the manifold off you can undo them with your fingers.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Just picked up my new radio, a JR XS3 FM. Very nice, 3 channel & 10 model memory. I can't wait to install it & give it a go. I bought a recharge switch with it as it goes through a lot of power, especially the transmitter with the digital display. Shouldn't have any more radio glitches now hopefully.

Cheers
Dicko.

very quiet out there. people still recovering from the holidays???

[DCLXVI]

I have recovered from the hollidays...on the other hand I have just been on my companys "christams party" so I have had a bit to drink right now...

My DT-10 are still in the process of being assembeld (sp?)...

Come Mars/April, I'll have the truck RTR...and kicking...

[dicko]

I love this time of year, long warm days, barbeques, beer, & the smell of nitro fuel in the air. looks like another good weekend for running the trucks.

my new radio gear is the go. just need a while to sit down & read the manual so I can set it all up properly.

[DCLXVI]

I love this time of year, long warm days, barbeques, beer, & the smell of nitro fuel in the air.

I'm sorry but I have to kill you now!!! :P

Atleast the temperature here are starting to get above 0 C....but it's not over yet...

[dicko]

I still don't own a digital camera, so I haven't had a chance to take a picyure of the front shock mounts. But they are mounted in the same fashion as the DT-10, except with shorter thicker bolts and a shorter plastic bushing. The plastic mounting tower is designed to flare out more allowing the shock to fit closer to it without hitting it. The metal shock tower on the DT-10 has to have the long bolts to keep the shocks from hitting the tower.

hope this helps.

nice 28degrees C today, fine & mid to high 20s till sunday when we soar back into the mid to high 30s. great beach weather:D :cool:

[dirtbike]

man theres snow here by me, so i dont get to run my dt-10 till spring. and does anyone know what the stock shock weight oil was in the rear shock on the dt-10. thanks.

[dicko]

its pretty light, I use 30w oil with the single hole diaghrams in the shock, and stiffer springs.

[dirtbike]

i put 35 wt in all my shock and left the stock springs on cause i thought they were good enough

[dicko]

I had the stock springs on with a few spacers, but wanted better progression through my travel. I put the 2 hole spacers in instead of the 4 hole ones to slow the compression & rebound rates to stop the car acting like a pogo stick. the tyres are pretty much glued to the track now, except over the jumps where it launches off nicely without twisting or ducking. I wrote a pretty long post a while back about setting up shocks. It's on this thread somewhere if you're interested.

[DCLXVI]

I have used the Evader shocks on mine (they are pretty cheap @ 15,5 USD / pair) and I have been using 40wt in them using the DuraTrax green (hard) springs, that has worked very good exept for a bit much rebound when doing big jumps...

[dicko]

I'll be putting 80w oil and green springs on my evader next week. I am keeping the 4 hole shim (apparently the correct word for diaghram/spacer inside the shock) in and seeing how that goes. Should be similar to the single hole & 30w oil I run in the DT-10.

Hows life in your hemisphere.

Looking forward to this weekend, 1 day left at work till the weekend, then a perfect day for sailing tomorrow and a perfect day for driving the trucks on sunday. And a quiet beer or 2 at Schutzenfest on saturday night. hope I don't suffer a hangover on sunday, headaches don't fare well with nitro engines at high revs.

[dicko]

DCL, here is a top view from the Duratrax website, you can kinda see the shock mounts here. hope this helps.

[DCLXVI]

Life in the northern part of the northern hemisphere have turned a bit worse since last time...a bit more snow (not much but anything are to much, little snow are worse than a lot of snow) and colder weather... :(

I have placed the DuraTrax spacers in my TowerHobbies cart, they fit really well on the DT-10 (the shocks I mean) one just have to replace the lower ball-joint to one that is metric...(imperial sucks big time ;))

Work on the DT-10 are progressing slowly as I've had much to do at work + I don't feel any preassure of getting it together as there will be atleast two or three month before I will run it (I can run it now but I don't want to get gangrene in my hands)...
Also I'm missing some spares (out-drives are heavily worn) and I'm planning on getting new ball-joints and ball-holders and turnbuckles all around...

I have however noticed some possible improvments; 1. Turning the shock screw around making it much easier to move it around to change the ride height and suspension geometry. 2. Using a non-threaded ball in the upper "A-arms" (and the steering linkage aswell) to make it easier on the balls when mounting (as of now you have to hold the ball with a plier while you screw a screw with thread-lock on it, and it still comes loose after awhile)...

[dicko]

If you want your ball joint to last longer, get some foam and cut it into circles, punch a hole in the middle and push ono your ball joint before connecting the push rod. This keeps the dirt out and stops the joint wearing from grit. If you look closely on the evader pic above you can see the foam on the push rods to the turn buckle arms on the front hub. I have done this to all my ball joints now. It is really dusty down here at the moment.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dirtbike]

i am think of getting onroad tires for my dt-10, what would you guys suggest

[dicko]

Go to the pro line website, they have a few on road tyres for stadium trucks. Most other brands are just relabelled pro line anyway.

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/

They have 4 to choose from, road hawg, road rage, speed hawg & striker. If you get a set let us know what you got & what you think of them.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dirtbike]

out of those 4 what set do you think i should get

[dicko]

Without trying any of them I couldn't say, but the striker & speed hawg look the most durable (bigger lugs) but would have less traction, depends on what you want. The road hawg & road rage come with foam inserts which is always a good idea. i'd personally go with one of those two. you may want something different, read the info on them & you should be able to pick something.

cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Pretty quiet out there lately. I have a long weekend this weekend. looking forward to it. The evader is out of action, waiting on a new bell gear, and I just made a new battery pack for the DT-10. 5 X 1200 mAh AA cells so I get hours of run time from a 6volt pack. It is the same as I am running in the evader. The only drawback is that with the long run time comes a long charge time. If the batteries go dead flat I have to charge them for 26 hours. But the transmitter will go flat before the reciever, so I charge them both overnight & no probs so far.

The DT-10 has been pretty reliable lately, so I am wondering if this is the calm before the storm where everything breaks all at once. Hope not, I want it to keep going for a while yet.

Hopefully the evader part will come in this week & I can get both up & running again.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dirtbike]

i never broke one part on my dt-10. and i have hit a few hard things a couple of times. i thinks its very strong.

[dicko]

I've broken plenty. mainly gears, but a piston sleave & piston, front hub, drive cups, body mounts, front bulk head. high speed crashes aren't good for any vehicle. The evader is pretty strong too, just got to get the new bell gear & I reckon it will be pretty good. It uses ball bearings and slipper clutches instead of gears in the diff. and it has an enclosed gearbox (except for the spur & bell gear, too hard to enclose those.

[dicko]

Does anyone have any views on wiring packs up in series or parallel? I just wired them all up in series, then as an after thought I suddenly thought of parallel. I just wired them up in series as that is how the packs you buy are wired. The only drawback I can see in parallel would be the sudden decrease in voltage when the batteries went flat, instead of a bit of a slow drawdown with some warning.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

If you have 6 1200 cells and wire them in parrallel you are going to get a pack with 1,2v and 6000mHA...if you do them series (like you have done) you get a 6v 1200mHA pack...

After work, I think I'm going to my LHS to order the last parts for my DT-10 (out-drives) and some turnbuckles and ball-joints...

[dicko]

Yeah, I figured it out last night. That isn't really what I need. Good thing I wired them up in series. Heaps cheaper to make your own recharge packs. I made mine for less than 1/3 the cost of buying one. And I got better cells.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I buyed two 1100 mHA (one straight and one humpback) packs and made one 2000mHA (AAx5 / humpback), the ones I bought was really cheap...

[dicko]

I am running 5 X 1.2volt 1200 mAh NiMH batteries in a hump pack design. I was going to get 2000 mAh, but with my charger (60 mAh) it would take 43 hours to charge them from flat. So I got the 1200s, it only takes 26 from flat, but once the failsafe kicks in I charge it overnight & they are good. The transmitter goes flat 1st, so I usually charge them both overnight together. The batteries that come with the solder tags attached are really easy to soulder up. It took me about 15 minutues to make a whole battery pack from scratch.

I hope I get my parts today, I don't think I will be that lucky, but you never know your luck.

Cheers
Dicko.

[Monkeyman1]

Hey guys, just bought my new set of diff gears. I was just wondering if perhaps putting a load of grease on them will help stop them braking. Any views

[DCLXVI]

Inner or outer? I've only had to replace the outher gears once, but the spider gears are starting to fall apart, might be wise to use some kind of grease, I have put bearing grease in mine now, I'll have to see how that holds up...

[Monkeyman1]

Have you had any problems with the very small internal gears because I also ordered them just in case. It's my drive axle one which has chewed. Should I cancel the order for the small ones

[DCLXVI]

Naa, get the spider gears (small internal ones), it might come in handy...

I have had NO problem with the driveshaft gear, but I recall that dicko had some trouble with it...

The drivetrain seems pretty strurdy to me once you have upgraded the diff with the spare (the spare that are indicated in the manual are much stronger than the one supplied in *my* RTR)...

[Monkeyman1]

Thanks for that DCL.. Are the spare parts really that much stronger or is it that you take much more care of them the second time around. lol. Does this mean that the spare hardware bag screw are tougher to because all mine have rounded.

Also please could you inform me that I have broken my engine in properly. I tried to follow the instruction booklet but the car was not performing as it should so instead I just ran it quite rich and basically left it like that. Because every time I lean it out it stalls at mid speed. I've now left it as rich as it was when I broke it in so it is very thirsty and a lot of fuel is spitting out of the exhaust. Should it be like this.

Have any of you managed to get a steel spur gear made yet and if so is it any good cos I could get one made I think.

Are the cvec pipes any good for the dt-10 and what are the other best pipes to get. Please can you tell me what tune ups should I get and what modifications should I do to my car to make it more reliable. Thanks for all your help.


p.s If you live in the uk and cant find parts for your dt-10 try ashtonmodels.co.uk

[DCLXVI]

Hmmm...I'm not really sure on the engine performance issue, try changing glow plug to a QuikFire F7 or a O.S. #8, I sure about the F7, that one are so MUCH better than the stock one, the OS #8 are acclaimed as the best alround plug as far as I've seen...

Steel spur are not really neccecary if you use thread-lock and shim the cluch/spur properly, I have only had minor scratches on mine (not original, I have stripped it several times but that has been caused by incorrect shim every time) and I have been running the OS CV-R for 1,5-2 litres...

I think that dicko or some one else had a CEN pipe that worked good, I'm using a THS pipe I got from Tower at a resonable price but I have some problem with it as it is to long and the coupling are different from the stock pipe (it uses .21 class mounting for the pipe/header coupling) and I have yet to find a header that fits (on the other hand, I have not been searching that much)...

Roger on the ashtonmodels, I don't live in the UK (I live in Sweden so it not that far away) but it might come inhandy if I get the Q from someone from the UK...

[dicko]

I had problems like that with the engine stalling out at mid revs. I ended up winding the idle screw in so it idled at higher, and adjusted the mixture needle from there. But I ended up wearing out a piston & liner (expensive) and needed to buy the 2 needle carbie anyway. I suggest you either buy the 2 needle carbie or a new engine. Before I had the 2 needle carbie the engine was almost impossible to tune, but now it is one of the easiest and most reliable engines I have. I run a Eureka pro (0.12-0.15) tuned pipe. I don't know if you can get them overseas, I live in Australia. The pipe is very light & gave a noticeable improvement in engine performance. But it dents easily on impact, but I have only had one so far & I used a screwdriver to push it back out.

I ran the DT-10 against a RC-10GT Traxxis nitro rustler & a nother car running a nova rossi engine yesterday, the novarossi engine is insanely powerfull, the car was flipping over on acceleration.

You can buy special diff grease to put on your spider gears, I use a molybdnum grease which is pretty good. But definitely grease them.

Cheers
Dicko

[Monkeyman1]

Hey thanks guys.

DCL.. You know that rollcage you built. Does it work and how did you build it. I've looked all over the forum to try and find out but I can't. Maybe that could be one of the first protection parts that I build for my car

[dicko]

I use the long Tamiya body posts that come with the nitro subaru (TG-10) and screwed them to the diff casing. They are much more flexible than the TTR ones and I have yet to break them. Never run you car with out the air cleaner and try to keep the body on, it gives a lot of protection.

[Monkeyman1]

Did you have to change the mountings for that engine and did you have to buy a new pull start. I read online that by moving my exhaust closer to the manifold exit that I would get a higher to speed so I have now moved it right up. I've also flanged the edges of the manifold to stop it sliding out of the blue rubber coupling. Does taking the baffle out of the exhaust actually work and how do I do it. Will it wreck my engine.
Dicko you know those body posts. Do they stop the diff casing from braking.
Plus you'll never believe what happened to me today. I orered some parts for my car online two days ago and now i'll be waiting ages. Then today I went to my LHS and discovered that they had ordered in a huge batch of parts and are selling them cheaper than online. I couldnt believe it.

[DCLXVI]

The rollcage (witch cost me about 4-5 USD to make) works like a charm...I had one crash with resulted in the body looking like some kind of mars explorer vehicle but not a part broke on the car (the cage was bent but since it is brass it is easy to bend it back)...

[Monkeyman1]

Hey dcl how did you make it then

[dicko]

most engines will need a backplate specific to that engine if you install a pullstart. you are better off buying the pull start designed for the engine. Don't pull the baffle out of the exhaust, it is there for a reason (to supply back pressure for the downstroke of the piston) if you remove it you will decrease the performance of your engine overall. Just buy a good tuned exhaust & you'll be fine. The body posts I screwed on were mounted to the tabs that poke out the side of the diff casing, and they are flexible enough that I can bend them round on themselves, so if they break the diff casing I'll be scratching my head in amazement.

As for the engine mount, DCL has done that, I believe if you keep the pullstart engine you will be able to use the same engine mounts, but if you want to go with a starter box you need a shorter engine mount to get the fly wheel low enough to access it through the hole in the chassis plate, or you could buy a bigger fly wheel. I just bought a new carbie for it.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

The body posts I screwed on were mounted to the tabs that poke out the side of the diff casing, and they are flexible enough that I can bend them round on themselves, so if they break the diff casing I'll be scratching my head in amazement.

That is exactly where I mounted my roll-cage...

Rollcage: It is made from two 50cm long 3mm brass wire, cut to aproprate length and solderd together with a 180w soldering iron using brass-solder (I think it is more tin in that) using a 6-8 cm long peice of the same brass wire...the lenght and width you'll have to do yourselfe, I can post a pic of the installation, the length varies since you'll have to bend the brass wire more or less free-hand, it is more siple than it sounds and I guess that, if you do not posses a soldering iron of sufficient power, you can use zip-ties...

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_186.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_188.JPG

http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_187.JPG

Engine mount:

Are we talking about the OS CV-R engine I installed? The only reason I had my cousins friend custom make some alu mounts was to LOWER the engine to get a starter-box all the way up to the fly-wheel. If you want to upgrade, either get an engine with a pull-starter pre-installed or get a starter-box, lower engine mounts (eiter modify/cut the stock one or have someone make them for you, or to gain bonus points, make them yourselfe)...

Mind you, an engine upgrade can be more expensive than it sounds...I spent about 100 USD on the engine, then another 100-150 USD on the starter-box, some 30-40 on batterys for the box, 50 on a new cluch, 20 on the pipe and mabey 20-30 on some misc. supply (cluch bell and new screws ect)...

The reason my cluch was so expensive:
http://dclxvi.no-ip.info/images/photos/small/IMG_215.JPG
(engine not mine, that is a NovaRossi .21, but the cluch looks almost the same, only somewhat smaller)...

[dicko]

the NovaRossi engines are insane, I raced against one on Monday. He had so much power he could flip the car over backwards from a rolling (and standing) start when he accelerated. I WANT ONE. Might need to start saving again.:D

[DCLXVI]

If you do, get the new .15 if you are not worried about ROAR ect limitations...

Or you could get the new OS .18 (I'd guess that it would somewhat more powerful than the DuraTrax .18, witch IIRC is an OS .18)...

[dicko]

I have the Duratrax .18 which is made by OS and it is pretty gutsy. I was looking at getting a Traxxas or NovaRossi .15 to put in the Evader & putting the .18 into the DT-10. The NovRossi isn't much more than the Traxxas money wise, but has better performance. Why isn't the NovaRossi under ROAR limits? I thought if it was a .15 it was legal. I don't think I'll worry with the OS .18. They (traxxas & NovaRossi) are getting great performance out of a .15 that you don't really need a .18.

[Monkeyman1]

Are the tamiya posts the same as the tbo1. I will try that tonight. Is it possible for the baffle to fall out because before my exhaust fell off and it might have come out. Also my parts have come today so I should be out with tyhe car tomorrow.

[DCLXVI]

The baffle is a part of the moulding so it is impossible for it to "just comming loose", you'll have to break it with a screwdriver...

[dicko]

Before I knew what the baffle was there for I tried to remove it to get more power. I ended up breaking the muffler in two, the baffle sits where the two parts of the muffler join together. Another point to note, if you push the muffler all the way up to the exhaust manifold you may melt the stock plastic muffler.after a run or two check the inside of your muffler to see if it has started to melt. Mine melted before I bought a metal one.

I cleaned the car last night ready for a bit of a thrash this weekend, I hope I get the parts for the Evader soon. I also cleaned up the TG-10 ready for some road rage. I haven't driven that for a while so I should give the engine a run to stop it gumming up. 2 tanks of fuel might do it, but if it becomes fun I might run a 3rd through.

It's amazing how dirty a bench can get from fixing RC cars & trucks on it, I gave it a well overdue clean last night & found 2 old pinion gears that I should have thrown out long ago amongst other worn pieces.

[dicko]

Just got a new OS CV-RX 0.15 for he evader. Nice engine, I can't wait to get the replacement bell gear so I can run it in. I was going to get the TRAXXAS 0.15 but it costs far too much money. My parts should arrive this week, but I won't be holding my breath.

I took the DT-10 out & bent the rear shock tower on the week end, It still runs, so I am going to leave it. If I try to bend it back it will most likely break, so I will just wait for the next big stack to do that for me. I noticed that one of my head screws no longer bites into the block. I will be keeping a close eye on that to make sure the engine doesn't start to fail there.

DCL, how did you get the fly wheel, clutch etc onto the OS? the drive axle out of the TTR engine is different from the OS one. I was going to put the old 0.18 into the DT-10 but the drive shaft needs a clip section on it. Did you buy a different bolt for the fly wheel?

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

I bought a new flywheel for it...

[dicko]

Is the drive shaft that you clip the clutch bell onto part of the nut that holds the fly wheel on? or is it part of the drive shaft from the engine? I thought it was part of the drive shaft from the engine, thats what it looks like on the exploded diagram. My CV-R only has a short threaded drive shaft. It suits the evader, but not the DT-10. I was going to put the DTX 18 in the DT-10, but I don't think I can.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

There are three types of cranks (IIRC), the short threaded on (called pilot I think), one called "short" (AE uses this alot) and SG-shaft...the threaded shaft are made so you can screw the other type of shaft onto the threads...my TT engine and my OS engine were of the same type, threaded...

You'll need an adaptor for this kind of shaft...

[DCLXVI]

This threads onto the crankshaft:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSZ7&P=0

[dicko]

You had a different crank shaft on your TTR than I have, I have the crank shaft with the straight section after the threaded section. I'll have to look into getting the right engine nut & see If I can get the 18 into the dt-10.

Cheers
Dicko.

ps. 35 degrees today 38 tomotrrow & saturday, 40 on sunday & not sure about monday. I'll be at the beach all weekend, too hot to drive nitro. airconditioners will be working overtime this weekend.

[Monkeyman1]

Hey guys howz it going. Today I found a great spot of gravel to use my car on. The car was going great and throwing up loads of gravel and stuff. I managed to get it to max speed a few times to. I pulled a huge crowd and then it stalled in front of them all. How embarrissing but it got worse. Once I started it back up again, it hit a rock and broke the front bulkhead. I went home and superglued it back on. (It broke at the part where the hole is to put the wishbone pin in so the wheel is hanging off.) It worked for about two minutes and broke when I hit a tiny bump. So i had to order a new one. Any tips on emergency repairs so I can at least get out on the weekend with it. Cheers guys.

[dirtbike]

where can i get aluminum parts for my dt-10

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by Monkeyman1
Hey guys howz it going. Today I found a great spot of gravel to use my car on. The car was going great and throwing up loads of gravel and stuff. I managed to get it to max speed a few times to. I pulled a huge crowd and then it stalled in front of them all. How embarrissing but it got worse. Once I started it back up again, it hit a rock and broke the front bulkhead. I went home and superglued it back on. (It broke at the part where the hole is to put the wishbone pin in so the wheel is hanging off.) It worked for about two minutes and broke when I hit a tiny bump. So i had to order a new one. Any tips on emergency repairs so I can at least get out on the weekend with it. Cheers guys.

I've only had one front bulkhead break one me...the temp fix I did was with a zip-tie...

where can i get aluminum parts for my dt-10

Tower sells alu shocks for the DuraTrax Evader (that fits the DT-10) otherwise I haven't seen anything else...

[Monkeyman1]

Hey dirtbike. Your best bet is to probably speak to a local fabricator or something. Thats what Im going to do as my local welder and fabricator says that if i give him the original then he will mold it into alu and steel for me. I bought my new front bul;khead today too.

[dirtbike]

yea now i just got to find someone that can do it, if you do it post a picture here and maybe i can buy them off you then.

[Monkeyman1]

Yep no problem. Where are you located to anyway. I had a total trouble free run today and had great fun. I also found a guy for me to race with as well. He owns an ssb. Should be a good laugh racing around a rugby pitch.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by Monkeyman1
Hey dirtbike. Your best bet is to probably speak to a local fabricator or something. Thats what Im going to do as my local welder and fabricator says that if i give him the original then he will mold it into alu and steel for me. I bought my new front bul;khead today too.

Hmmm...make him quote a upper diff casing for me, I'd love to have one of those :)

I will probably make my own radio deck out of either alu or CB, I'll make it much smaller as I will move the battery around a bit...I'll see if I can make the truck a bit more balanced as I feel it is a bit forward heavy...

[dicko]

DCL, if you want to more weight near the back, put the battery pack next to the throttle servo when yu make your new top deck. If you are using a 5 sell recharge pack that will bring a lot of the weight back. But you still need to keep the weight on that side to balance the weight of the engine. The car pitches sideways on take offs from jumps otherwise.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

That is actually exactly what I was thinking, I have a five cell 1100 mHA, 2/3 AAA flat pack and I thought that the perfect mounting point would be beside the throttle servo...

On a side note...I have modified my site somewhat, I am starting to get the hang of PHP so I can update my page at a more regular interval... :)

[dicko]

Alternatively for an even better weight distribution, you could put the battery pack where the fuel tank is, put the receiver next to the throttle servo and the fuel tank in the middle of the car where the battery pack and receiver are now. this would allow the weight to stay even when your fuel decreases. It might take a bit of fiddling but it would be worth it.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

It's been stinking hot all week, 38 deg C plus. it is going to be 40 on Saturday. Looks like i'll be leaving the cars on the shelf for at least another week. I may as well give them all a good clean.

Pretty quiet lately.

[LazeR_88]

what new tires do you guys recommend?? do you know about the traxxas rustler rear tires? are they good, and last for long?

Dcl, what do the tranny gears cost, i mean the big alu gear on the diff, the diff gears are fine but the alu one is a bit worn.

//Tommy

[DCLXVI]

I think I payed 350 SEK for it...check the recommended price at www.carrocar.se

[DCLXVI]

Tires, that depends on what you are running on...Trac-Ta-Gators are insane on grass an the HPI GeoLandar are awesome all-round (although a little bit hard to find)...

[dicko]

I run Proline Edge on the front and proline bow-ties on the rear on the track & in the dry (unreal traction). in the wet I run dirt paws, but not on the track, only on grass & mud.

[Monkeyman1]

Hey guys wassup. Using my car with no problems recently. using it so much that rear tires are starting to wear. I have a problem now though. I crashed the other day and now my steering servo seems to have gone. it doesnt go on full lock to the right but when it has fully turned either way the servo make a loud noise. Does this mean a new servo. Thanks guys

[dicko]

congratulations, sounds like you have stripped your 1st servo. I run high speed metal geared servos on my trucks. Hitec make an excellent one that holds high torque as well. It is the Hitec HS 625MG, it can hold at least 5.5kg and it turns in 0.13-0.16 seconds with 6 Volts. With metal gears you will find it a lot harder to strip the gears in your servo. They are more expensive but well worth it.

To check your servo take it out of the truck ane put a servo horn on it, with it switched off turn it with your hands & see if it makes clicking noises when you turn it from full lock to full lock. If it does the gears are stripped. You might feel it grinding a bit as well.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

You can also take the servo apart and check the gears...it is probably stripped though...get a new one, you could spend a few dollars on new gears but it's not that good of a servo (if you haven't upgraded)...I'm running the HiTec HS545 witch are a bit cheaper but I think that it is slower and it does not have metal gears (I have not stripped any gears in this servo even though I run without the servo saver)...

EDIT: the 545 manages 5,5 kg / 0,17 sec @ 6v

[Monkeyman1]

hey guys jus thought up a new plan. I dont know if it will work but it's worth a try.
If I can get hold of some tubing the same width as the carb then i could fit it to it and then run it up to the top of the body shell facing forwards. That mean then that as you go faster more cooler air will get into the the engine resulting in more performance. I could also put a tight or something over the carb opening which is what my mate done to his real car to get more performance. tell me if u think it will work first before I wreck my engine.

Bye the way yes it looks like a new servo for me

[dicko]

people have done this with their evaders. you have to make sure that the air filter is securely fastened to the tube and that the tube is securely fastened to the carby. you also have to make sure the air filter is securely fastened to the front of the car & won't get knocked off in a crash. the tube needs to be heat resistant aswell. If you get a bad knock & the tube comes off somewhere you are likely to suck a whole heap of dust/dirt into your engine & wear your piston & liner. then your engine will not work properly if at all.

It does work, but you have to do it right. If you get it running, let us know how it performs.

Cheers
Dicko.

[dicko]

Had both the evader & DT-10 out on the track on the weekend. I ran the new OS CV-RX engine in on friday night, finally the weather was cool enough to run nitro.

The dt-10 is still kicking along really well, I did some fine tuning on the idle mixture screw & got the engine tuned in nicely, it accelerates like a bullet now. I just need to get some new front tyres so I can turn around the corners without fornt end sliding.

Cheers
Dicko

ps, pretty quiet here lately.

[DCLXVI]

I'm still "snowed in"... :(
My DT-10 are comming along slowly...new turnbuckles all around (6 pcs) and new drive cups (inner and outer) and new bearings (complete set)...I'll resolder the roll-cage also and some other minor stuff, I have one shock left to mount (seems to be something wrong with it though, it leaks like crazy when I compress it) and the electronics are mounted as are the engine, gas tank are not monunted but the engine are, the break are not in place but it sure will be (after I install the upper tray)...

My PureTen has gotten some new tires (2" buggy, tires from TT and rims from Kyosho) and my TXT-1 has been sligthly modded (acually, that means that I removed alot of stuff today, if you can call that modding)...

[dicko]

sounds like the o-ring in your shock has gone. If your stanchion is still silver (they go brass couloured when they wear out) you may need to get some new O rings. I don't know how easy they are to replace though. DTXC9056 is the shock seal set you will need to fix your evader seals. I checked the exploded diagrarm & it looks like you pull off a cap & there is 2 o rings & a spacer between them.


If you want titanium nitride shock shafts (stanchions) the part number for them is

DTXC9728 for the front
DTXC9729 for the rear.

Cheers
Dicko.

[DCLXVI]

Funny thing is that the seal seems to be holding...the fluid comes through the threaded part...

[dicko]

Get some thread tape that plumbers use on tap fittings & wrap some around the thread. That should stop any leaks & it is really cheap. Don't do it up too tight, just firm enough to stop any leaks & so it won't come undone.

[DCLXVI]

I'll check it out...I haven't botherd yet, it may be that it is a really simple fault...

[dicko]

yeah, most of the faults I have found have been simple, but unfortunately they are also often expensive. such is the nature of this hobby.

[shelter]

Heya...

You haven't heard much from me ... well, there's a reason for this, SNOW! :/

My DT-10 is just sitting in it's box, I guess I could clean it but some of the cleaning needs to be done outside I think.

So I'm sitting here waiting for spring to arrive...

[unknown person]

hey ppl

good to see that all of you are ok

Mi savage is doin fine, with quite a few upgrades, i ripped a brake pad (dual brake converson). But i got that fixed and waiting to get it to run it again.

My god comparing this to mi DT-10 its soooo much quicker!! Plus it soo much more agile than the dt-10, but sayin that i was at the local bmx track and giving it a fair beating when i was goin over a jump and the front wheel fell off, i lost the drive pin but lucky had a spare fo i was able to have some more fun. Its really annoyin cuz i have no one to race with and i used to have a guy who lived over the road from me who had a terra crusher!! love to kick his ass!

Oh well, mi dt-10 days are now officaly over, and off to hpi ones

C u around

[Monkeyman1]

Hey guys picking up my metal servo tomorrow. Which one do you think I should get. Also going to get reciever battery back. Any ideas for a good un.
Im also going to be looking at picking up some new shocks. Are there any makes and models you would reccomend for the DT. I dont mind having a slightly lower ride height. Finally im going to get some new tires. What are best for mud, grass and gravel.

I also spoke to some guys today who were running ultima gps st's. I got talking to them and they told me that their cars are much better than the dt-10 although the cars appeared quite slow. I also saw that they were running narrow wheels and tires on th front cos they said it gave better handling, speed or something. Is this true and if so can you get them to fit on the dt-10 cos I thought they looked cool.
Oh one more thing what tuned pipe is best to get and what failsafe do you think is best. Cheers guys

[DCLXVI]

Shocks: The DuraTrax Evader shocks are really cheap/good value
Tires: On grass, nothing beats the Pro-Line Trac-Ta-Gator, I'd say that the HPI GeoLandar or the Pro-Line DirtHawgs are more all-round though...
Fail-Safe: Just get the cheapest one, I bought a GWS FS-1 and later noticed that Futaba and Venom sells the exact same unit for the double price...
Tuned pipe: I don't know, I got a THS pipe but it is slightly to long and has the wrong coupler
Metal gear servo: I do belive that the HiTec HS625 and 645 are recommended by many
Narrow front tire: That is what 1/10 buggies are using, I'd say that the broad tires are better since all the serious competitors are using the usual ST tires (ST racing that is)...

[dicko]

the Edge tyres from pro line hook up really well. the Hitec HS 625MG is an awesome servo, I use it on my trucks.

Cheers
Dicko.

[LazeR_88]

i plan to sell my dt 10 to a friend and buy a traxxas nitro rustler. byy the way, i buyed a dual needle carb of a friend and that made my modified tt pro 15 to push my car into the sound barrier:D

[dicko]

I think you'll find you wish you kept the DT-10. I have run against rustlers with both my stadium trucks & all the rustler has going for it is speed. the rest is (in my opinion) average. You can always build the speed in other trucks up to match the rustler, but you are limited in how much you can change handling & toughness.

[LazeR_88]

about the rustler, is it more durable and can it take more pain??
or do you recommend to keep my dt 10..

[dicko]

From what I've seen the stock rustler isn't as tough as the dt-10, but you can buy upgrades, I'm not sure how many & how easy they are to get. The dt-10 is very easy to work on & replace worn gears & parts.

I have a duratrax nitro evader also, & that is my truck of choice, I have put a lot of upgrades into it (ie engine, fuel tank, hubs, diff, servos & radio gear) but you will rarely run a trruck stock for long. Look around & get the best truck you can afford & remember all trucks will have parts that are substandard & need upgrading. But the dt-10 is an excellent truck for what you pay for it.

Cheers
Dicko

[dirtbike]

i love my dt-10, i have not got to drive it for about 5 months, its just been sitting because of winter, maybe one more month then i can take it and start it up outside. Its really wet here. it sucks.

[dirtbike]

Hey guys whats up, anyways i started a Thunder tiger dt10 thread on rcuniverse.com i know most of you here are on that site as well, here a link to the dt-10 thread i started. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1624606/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#1624606

[DT-10 basher]

hi my dt-10s steering servo has given up and wont turn the wheels properly, i ve only had it for 3 months, can i get it replaced or if not can u suggest a good servo to buy.

[DCLXVI]

I'm using a HiTec HS-545 for the steering and I have locked the servo save with a zip-tie...it works good but could be better (= more expensive with a HS-6x5)

[DT-10 basher]

how much is the servo ur using and can u get it in the UK

[DCLXVI]

Mine was about 500 SEK and you sould easily be able to get it in the UK...

[DT-10 basher]

do you know how much that is in pounds sterling roughly?

[DCLXVI]

I think the pund is worth 12-13 SEK...

[Monkeyman1]

Hey guys bought my new servo but when I tried to get the red servo saver thingy off the old one I snapped it. I cant seem to find one that actually fits into the car. any ideas. I have th hs 625 one.

[DCLXVI]

You mean the servo arm? You sould have gotten a part looking like it only it looks like a +...you have to cut three of the arms of it...

[Monkeyman1]

Ha ha cheers. duh im stupid. which hole shall i put it on mind

[dirtbike]

Try what wroks best for you, i have mine on the very last hole near the bottom of the arm, works good for me.

[DCLXVI]

Since you are using a HS625 I'd say, put it at the last hole (as far out as possible), you'll get faster steering responce that way...

[DT-10 basher]

is the hitec 645mg a good servo for steering?

[DT-10 basher]

sorry its a 425 bb

[DCLXVI]

It is probably ok...the 5x5 would be better and the 6x5 would be best but the 9x5 would be even better ;)

[dirtbike]

Hey guys, i need money real bad and i am trying to sell my dt10, so i though i would come here and ask how much you think its worth. It has the following on it that i had add/ or replaced.

.15 Pro engine With only 1/2 gallon of %20 nitro through it
Standard 1/10 stadium truck tires, on Proline dish rims.
Proline Masher 2000, like brand new still.
Dubro fuel filter
2 new glow plugs.
Recharge able glow ignitor, with charger.
New Airtronics steering servo.
New Airtronics controller
New crystals.
New side exhust gasget
Rebuilt shocks on all four corners
One purple gas line


How much do you guys think i could get for my truck its still mint. Pleace let me know, i need money real fast and cant really decide on a price, i have it right now at $200 shipped. is it to much, let me know.

[Monkeyman1]

Oh dont go dirtbike. Where did u get that exhaust gasket from.

[DT-10 basher]

which way do u route your fuel tubing on your car?

[Monkeyman1]

I route mine up from the fuel tank over the top of it and round the back. it goes over the end of the brake linkage and out to the left of the car before going back to the carb. I s that good

[DCLXVI]

I have routed mine about the same, over the tank (fuel filter secured with zip-tie in the hole on the rear of the tank), under the break linkage (between the plate that hold the break and the bulkhead part that secures the rear shock tower) and forward to the carb...

[DCLXVI]

Forgot to say, I have "secured" the fuel line between the lid and the pump, it works quite well...

[DT-10 basher]

thanks from both of you helped a bit cause i was havin trouble re-routing it. taken care of now.

[dirtbike]

Monkeyman1, I got my gasget from my LHS (local hobby store).

[Monkeyman1]

hey guys passed my driving test too now so I can take my car to further away places. is it safe for me to use on sand.

Hey dcl what shocks are u using and r they any good. also got some fine weather over here so straight out with the beast after weeks of not using it.

Did i tell u what happened.

well my batteries went flat out the street and the car sped of before getting jammed right under the middle of a park car. so i lay down to reach it but couldnt drag it out and the engine was still on full revs so i pulled off the fuel line and lost a tank load. I dragged him out and the body was all scratched. no worries though eh.

Also my mate has jus ordered an hpi rs4 rally. would my dt10 beat him in a race.

[DCLXVI]

Horay for Monkeyman :D Congratulations on your drivers license...It is GOOD to have one...

Running in sand...no real danger, depends somewhat on the type of sand, the finer the more damage it does...the main concerns are the bearing (if you have uppgraded) and the engine (make sure that you have oiled the air filer and run with a fuel filter)...

About that run away...use a rechargable revicer pack and a fail-safe that detects low reciver voltage...it is cheap compared to what a run away can cost (compare 30 USD vs. getting the truck run over by a full size car!)

EDIT: The shocks I'm using are the DuraTrax Evader Rear RTR shocks, I have not tried them that much already but so far they are the best value I have on my DT-10 (save for my 30USD servo saver ;) ), they costs 15,50 USD on TowerHobbies...

[DT-10 basher]

ive tried to unscrew the top of the shocks and they are stuk tight can anyone help me?

[DCLXVI]

the stock shocks? Try to use some plyers at the top and a monkey wrench at the body...other than that I don't really know...

[Monkeyman1]

Cheers dcl. Yeah being able to drive does help you get about but the downside is is that cars cost u loads but who cares because it make girls fancy u even more but then agin they cost loads too.

Lol


Ill look around for duratrax shocks then. I've already got a fuel filter but what oil is best for the air filter. Plus I havent used the car for a while and didnt use after run oil. does that really matter.

Ive now got access to a garage and some cnc machines too now so maybe i could turn my dt-10 into a super DT-10. Ha Ha. well I suppose it could be possible.

I like the newlayout of the website mind. Its cool innit

[Falco]

Hey guy's, it's amazing how much time a new kid can take up! I took my DT-10 off the shelf the other day, and finally installed my clutch shoe, but now I have a new problem. I took the car out to run, and all I got was a puddle of fuel!! :mad: I hope I just didn't tighten all the screws the lats time I took it apart. DCL, how is your OS engine running, and what model did you get again

[Falco]

Hey guy's, it's amazing how much time a new kid can take up! I took my DT-10 off the shelf the other day, and finally installed my clutch shoe, but now I have a new problem. I took the car out to run, and all I got was a puddle of fuel!! :mad: I hope I just didn't tighten all the screws the lats time I took it apart. DCL, how is your OS engine running, and what model did you get again

[DCLXVI]

I have the OS 15 CV-R and a custom engine mount to run w/o the pullstart (I'm using a starterbox)...

The engine are holding up just fine...I'm using a 17T clutch and I almost get it to wheely and I don't think that I'm running optimal setting and I don't think that it is totally broken in yet so you could go with a larger clutch...

[DT-10 basher]

should the whole engine including the carb and clutch etc be really hot when finished a tank, cause im a wee bit concerned about it all being really hot.

[DCLXVI]

The engine sould be HOT yes...it sould be under 100 deg C though...try the spit test, put some spit on the head and see if it boils directly, it sould vanish pretty fast but it sould not hiss and start to boil, if it does, richen your engine...

[DCLXVI]

Cheers dcl. Yeah being able to drive does help you get about but the downside is is that cars cost u loads but who cares because it make girls fancy u even more but then agin they cost loads too.

Lol


Ill look around for duratrax shocks then. I've already got a fuel filter but what oil is best for the air filter. Plus I havent used the car for a while and didnt use after run oil. does that really matter.

Ive now got access to a garage and some cnc machines too now so maybe i could turn my dt-10 into a super DT-10. Ha Ha. well I suppose it could be possible.

I like the newlayout of the website mind. Its cool innit

Hmm..I'm completly missed your reply... sorry 'bout that :o

I used the fuel as air-filter oil before I got hold of some "real" air-filter oil...it worked...

Nice on the CNC access...mabey you could sell us other some parts...I'd really like a new upper deck, I've got some plans that I think will work fine/better than stock...

[Monkeyman1]

Yep once I have done some designs I will try and get them made and will show u them. Does it matter not having used after run oil

[DCLXVI]

So long as the engine works...but I'd recommend atleast WD-40...

[dicko]

i've been on holiday for a week. I didn't get a chance to drive any of my cars till yesterday as it has been too hot. but the dogs got a good run chasing the trucks around the backyard yesterday. winter is coming so there will be a bit more driving happening soon. summer was too hot most days to get the cars out. you guys must be looking forward to summer.

[dirtbike]

Monkeyman1, if you could make some aluminum a-arms, that would be cool, i would have to buy some off you.

[DCLXVI]

i've been on holiday for a week. I didn't get a chance to drive any of my cars till yesterday as it has been too hot. but the dogs got a good run chasing the trucks around the backyard yesterday. winter is coming so there will be a bit more driving happening soon. summer was too hot most days to get the cars out. you guys must be looking forward to summer.

Looking forward to summer? No kidding! It was 4 deg C this morning, and that felt warm! The sun are starting to feel warm aswell...

[dirtbike]

Hey guys i just sole my Thunder Tiger Dt10 today, I just got the money order in the mail today, i sold it for $175, now i am gona get me a savage ss, and then an rc10gt, i dont have the dt10 anymore but i will still come here and post and info if anyone needs help.

[DT-10 basher]

my stock steering servo final died and killed all the gears inside it. is there anything i can do about it gettin replaced under the warranty or do i have to buy one.?

[DCLXVI]

I don't really think so...just get a new servo (a better one than the stock one)...

[DT-10 basher]

thnaks for that ill try and get one but theres a cash flow problem ahhhhhhhh

[Falco]

hey, what's everone running for servos? I'm using standard Airtronics servos, not sure the part/modle number.

[dicko]

Hitec HS 625MG, best servo I have found to run the stearing on any truck, & it's cheap. high speed & metal geared, you can't go wrong.

[DCLXVI]

HiTec HS545 cheaper than the 625 and not as good...but good enough... :)

[DT-10 basher]

was lookin on the net and saw that you can by a set of replacement gears for the servo. are they worth while cause my servo has just ballsed up its gears. does anybody know how much they are in pounds sterling.

[DCLXVI]

They sould be cheap, mabey around 2 GBP?

[DT-10 basher]

can u use 3in1 oil for the engine after your done for the day?

[DCLXVI]

I have been using WD40...I can't find any rust in my engines and they are running fine...some ppl recommends that you use "real" after run oil though...

[shelter]

Spring is HERE! I sure hope it won't snow anymore... :)
You can actually go outside and take the car for a spin now... but I'll wait a little bit more myself before I do that.

But real soon now... :p

[dicko]

it was raining for about an hour this morning, winter is coming, still 23 deg C for the temp today though. perfect nitro weather. track isn't dusty anymore.

[Falco]

I've already been out with my electric, but still have to fix my DT-10. I'm taking next week off, so hopefully I can get it working!

[DT-10 basher]

how do you remove the primer on the fuel tank without bustin the whole thing.
And i got new tires for the back, do you have to 'prepare them' and how.

[DCLXVI]

I haven't got the slightest idea on the primer...I looked at it last time I serviced my truck but I let it alone...if it doesn't work, get a new tank...

I did some running a few days ago, it was nice :) I redid my suspension set-up using softer springs and 30w oil...the truck went REALLY smooth over most of the bumps...It will however take some considrable time before I learn to jump it properly... :( Also, this OS engine is insane! I wasn't able to go full speed...when I had the room it wheelied on a bump and ripped the body off and I refuse to run the truck w/o the body (that ALWAYS leds to me replaceing the rear bulkhead...I was able to get the body back on using the same (broken) zip-ties but I didn't dare to go back on the grass...to unpredictable performance, a slight bump over 50% throttle during hard acc and I wheely...I've got to make some sort of wheely bar since my body get stuck instantly then...

[Falco]

Well, I had the DT-10 out today, and I think I know what's wrong with it.

I seem to be leaking fule around the glow plug, and mabey the pull start.

I think I might be running rish too, I went through a full tank of fuel with out the wheels "hooking up". They would spin slowly when I lifted the back end of the truck, but just before I ran out of fuel, the engine reved higher, and the truck too off. Didn't go verey far, but it's a start.

Four more days of vacation to get it running right, hope it's enough time.

[DT-10 basher]

got some new tyres for the back, is there anyhting you have to do to them before you stick them on.

[dirtbike]

just glue them onto the rims.

[dicko]

You may want to clean the rims up with some fine sand paper 1st to get the glue to stick well.

[neilwillis]

Hi All,

Just read my way through most of your posts....

Well I just got my DT10 up and running for the first time.

All I can say is what a great car!! Well built (ish) and its great fun. :)

Had a few problems though. - - :mad:

I noticed the engine and come to think of it most of the car was covered in fuel deposits after about tank No. 8. It seems that one of the bolts that holds the exhaust on worked its way loose and it was loose causing most of the crap to exit all onto my car!

The second problem was that the screw that holds the back suspension together came loose too and one of the drive shafts came off, Luckily I found it near by.

So I will be calling my local shop to see if they can order those bits for me.

I have a small video of it running. It’s an onboard shot!!!

http://www.willisonline.co.uk/videos/DT10.MPG

I also strapped my GPS to it and managed to get 38.9mph :eek: . I didn’t have the longest of runs to see if it you go faster, but to be quite honest I couldn’t handle it any faster.

Thanks for you time,


Neil

[DCLXVI]

Cool vid :D

Welcome to the board...nice to see you enjoy your DT-10...

I think that you'll need to get some threadlock for the rear screw (infact you sould use threadlock on all the screws going into metal)...and for the mainfold, get some longer bolts and put a self-locking nut on the other side, it is somewhat hard to fit the nut on there but it won't come off...

I haven't run mine that much lately, I haven't had the time...and last time I drove it I hit a root and broke another rim and the part of the steering that the outer part of the steering linkage attaches to...but that was a quick fix and I hope to be out again before the weekend...

I've also done a quick and simple wheelie bar, not that my truck wheelies all the time with the OS engine and the faster gearing but I've noticed that it won't take that big a bump to make the front wheels airborne, and when they to, the rear of my body catches the ground and the truck crashes...

[dicko]

Welcome aboard. I agree with DCL, get some blue threadlock & put it on all the metal on metal screws. Especially the engine mount and exhaust ones. you might want to upgrade the stearing servo eventually too. it tends to strip the standard one. I use a metal geared one.

have fun with your new truck.

[dicko]

oh one other thing, get a pen & pad & read this thread through in your spare time. there are some great tips to be had along the way. it will save you a heap of time & money in the long run.

[neilwillis]

Thanks for the replies.


Do you know if the engine screws should be counter-sunk onto the chaise? As mine are sticking out about 2-3 mm.

Also, I was thinking of getting some new rims/tyres for on road and some for off road. What size do I need? Is it 2.2?

Any help on wheel/tyres would be great.

hope to get some more video and pictures soon. when my parts turn up.

Thanks,


Neil

[dicko]

as for the screws, the chassis is too thin to countersink them, I use the Tamiya hex head screws with the phillips head top, that way I have two chances of getting them out if they get stuck.

Tyres, go to Proline on the web & check out their range of 1/10th scale truck tyres, I personally use the boe-ties for racing, but a lot of people are using the step-pins as well. yep 2.2" is the size you want.

[neilwillis]

Hi,

Does anyone know the size of the screws that fit the exhaust onto the engine? I phoned my local model shop and they said it comes as part of the exhaust kit and you can't buy it!

So i was going to pop to my local DIY shop and just get a screw the same size, but i dont have the car with me at work and wonderd if anyone knows?


Many Thanks,


Neil

[DCLXVI]

30 mm long, then you can put lock nuts on them aswell...

[neilwillis]

Thanks for that.

Do you know the diameter?


Thanks,


Neil

[DCLXVI]

M3, 3 mm

[shelter]

Hi All,

http://www.willisonline.co.uk/videos/DT10.MPG


Cool Video, now I can really imagine myself sitting in it while driving. :)



I also strapped my GPS to it and managed to get 38.9mph :eek: . I didn’t have the longest of runs to see if it you go faster, but to be quite honest I couldn’t handle it any faster.


OMG, I knew the car was fast but not that fast. It's about 62Km/h for those who didn't know. :)
No wonder the car breaks pretty badly if you crash, luckily I haven't crashed yet.

[neilwillis]

Yeah, I think it will go faster, but the area i was using just was not long enough to keep the throtle open for long enough.

Will let you know when i have another try. It might be faster, as my exhaust was half off at the time, which would effect the engine, I think?


Neil

[shelter]

Will let you know when i have another try. It might be faster, as my exhaust was half off at the time, which would effect the engine, I think?


Yes, it affects the engine. During my first run with the car the exhaust fell off... so I know how it is.

[DCLXVI]

The engine need the backpreassure created from the pipe since it is a two-stroker...

[dicko]

My DT-10 is pretty standard, the evader that I race has a few hop ups & is now pulling around 72km/h, or 45 m/hf ish. it's a blast to drive & handles so well. I can't wait for the weekend to get em both out for a bash. it rained all monday & tuesday & has been clear the rest of the week, so the race track will be nice & firm, perfect for a few fast laps.

[neilwillis]

Well I hope my parts will arrive before the weekend as I want to get up and go for a blast.

I got the 30mm screws from a local DIY shop, and they are just the job. 6 for 60p, so I get spares. :)

Anyone here from the UK? I am trying to find a place take the car out, I am Wiltshire and there are not many places to use off road without getting it covered in mud. A little is ok, but plastered is not fun. :(

[neilwillis]

One quick question.

I have just tried to undo the screw that holds the back wheels onto the car. Not sure what they are called, but there is a support bar and that makes sure the drive shaft is in place.

Anyways, as I was undoing the screw and the universal joint that the screw is in kept turning. I couldn’t find a way to stop it and have almost rounded off the screw.

Any ideas?

I hope you understand what i am trying to say. :confused:


Thanks


Neil

[DCLXVI]

I think that you mean the rear chamber link...you have to more or less destroy the ball that the link are attached to...remove the chamber link and then grab hold of the ball with some plyers or simmilar...then you should get it loose...

This is one of the reasons I replaced all my chamber and steering links to turnbuckles and unthreaded balls...it is so much easier to service the car that way...

[DT-10 basher]

ahhhhhhhhhh burnt my fingers trtin to get tires off the rims then i stuck them together while glueing the new ones on. will try to do less donuts and stop wreking tyres.

[neilwillis]

Ah, Yes, donuts.

I have only had 8 tanks of fuel through mine and i have bald patched on the back tyres already!

Where do you get your tyres from?

I called ALL my local shops and they dont have any in stock.

Cheers

Neil

[DT-10 basher]

i got a rear set of the proper ones for the dt-10 but next time i might get somw proline ones cause they look pretty good.

the bit about where to get them, i get mine from my lhs, i was over in england last week or so and i tried 5 diff hobby shops and one had thunder tiger parts, there must be some serious probs over there.

[DCLXVI]

Forget about the stock tires...they offer quite good grip on most surfaces but they wear far to quickly...get a set of HPI's GeoLandar...really good all-round grip and low wear...or for loose surfaces and grass get a set of ProLines Trac-Ta-Gator, the preformance on grass with those tires are simply amazing...it's like using foams on asphalt...

[neilwillis]

OK I have few questions. Sorry about this, but being new there is much I need to know:

1) Wheels. I purchased some 2.2 wheels for a thunder tiger. When I got home they were far too small. I guess there are for a touring car or something. Is there a particular type I need to get?

2) How do I take off the wheels? I have taken off the nut that holds them on, but I didn’t want to pull to hard. I gave is a good tug, but it didn’t want to play.

3) I am looking at getting some proline roadrage’s. Will the tyres fit the wheels? Or is there a certain type I need to get. this links back to No.1 as I thought 2.2 was a type of tyre, but if there are different types of 2.2 then AHHHHHHHHHHHH.


That’s it for now!

Thanks for all the help so far,

Neil

[DCLXVI]

1. Well, you need to get 2,2" truck wheels, either ThunderTiger PD#6066 (nor 100% on the number but you have it in the back of the manual) or one of HPI's many different 2,2" truck wheels...they are supposed to fit all types of trucks but I have not tested them yet...

2. The rim has probably gotten stuck on the pins that transfers power from the axle to the rim, you'll just nedd to pull harder...

3. The RoadRage tires are made to fit 2,2" but I think that there are different models of the RR's, the 2,2" truck ones sould fit the stock wheels as well as the HPI wheels...

[neilwillis]

Well I took out my truck today.

I forgot to put the nuts on the muffler! So after about 3 minutes it was hanging :mad: fixed it now so that’s ok.

I let my wife have a quick go and as she turned, one of the back tyres rolled down the field!! :p . I just put it back on and it seems fine for the moment.

Another quick question :confused: How much does your engines leek? I seem to get a bit of mess round the engine area, which always needs cleaning. It’s not just a small about, after 10 minutes the engine is pretty much covered.

Is this normal or does it sound like there is something need tightening?

Thanks again for your replies.

Neil

[DCLXVI]

The engine guck problem sound like the mainfold gasket...

[neilwillis]

Ah, well.

I did wonder.

It's possible, but i dont think mine come with one fitted! When it took off there wasn't one there!

I will try and make one out ok a kit this week if i can get the bolts off as i just used locktight on them! oopss.

I thought it was strange, but as there wasn't one i didn't question it too much.

Thanks

[dicko]

when you order tyres there are 2 types of 2.2 inch, the truck ones and buggy ones, the truck ones are higher profile, and the buggy ones are low profile. hope that helps.

[neilwillis]

yep, thanks

[shelter]

Heh, Neil... you've managed to do everything I did in the begining when I ran my car. :)

BTW, it actually says in the manual that you SHOULD tighten the screws etc before running the car for the first time. But it's hard to miss that text, I did... :rolleyes:

[DT-10 basher]

i try to start the car but it goes for a sec and then cuts out and sometimes it goes for a while and when you hit the throttle it cuts out. is the glow plug bust or is it somit else?

[DCLXVI]

Either the mixture or the glow plug...if you are running the stock glow plug, try to fint a QuikFire F7 (or, I think, a OS #8)...it will make the engine much more reliable...

[dicko]

I run the OS #8, never had any problems with them.

[DT-10 basher]

how much usually is the OS #8

[DCLXVI]

Under 10 dollars...

[DT-10 basher]

is there any other thing you can use for the aerial cover or anywhere else you can put it becasue mine keeps braking everytime i roll the car, they are the crappy one from my lhs.

[DCLXVI]

Get youselfe a fail-safe before you start to tinkter with the antenna...

[DT-10 basher]

already have one

[DT-10 basher]

does anyone know of anything else i can use for the aerial cover

also i read somewhere once that if the inside of your engine is a certain colour you are running rich etc, what is it exactly???

[Falco]

I just use heatshrink to put the antenna tube back togeather. I think I saw aluminium ones somewhere, but I'd rather go through a bunck of cheep ones, I don't think any tube would hold up long. You could try to heat the tube and then bend it back to match the DT-10's profile better, but that could effect preformance, and make removing the body harder.

Great Hobbies has some cool antenna tubes!! part number: GSCASB
http://www.greathobbies.com/frame_index.html

[DT-10 basher]

i read somewhere that you can tell how you are running your engine by the colour of the residue or something inside the engine.can someone tell me exactly how this is?

[DT-10 basher]

my receiver is playin up, its alright whenever the engines not runnin but when its on the failsafe goes on but everythings seems ok. also if i flik it it does the same then i flik it again and it goes bak to normal. anybody know what might be wrong

[DCLXVI]

Sounds as if your reciver crystal are broken...get a new one...

Place your reciver on some sort of vibration dampening material, otherwise you'll break crystals 'till kingdom come...

[DT-10 basher]

thanks for that, i have it on some foam but it still vibrates loads

[shelter]

Yeah, it's probably the crystal. Same thing happend to me, when the engine was running the car had its own life. But worked fine when the engine was off...

[Falco]

YES!!! I got the dt-10 running again!!!! I still have to play with the carb to get full throttle, but it's nice to have it working again.

[DT-10 basher]

i had mine runnin nicely for a while on the weekend too(until the crystal went) was doin cartwheels and everythin in the forest

[shelter]

Ok, today's the day... I hope. :)

I've charged the batteries, I cleaned her up a bit, put on my never-used-before fuel filter. So I'm ready to go... I just have to make sure she starts and all that first. :)

Two "scary" things happend when I was cleaning.

First, I removed the fuelline going from the tank... just took a peice of paper and cleaned it when I noticed there was a HOLE in the fuelline. I can't believe it actually ran last year when I ran it the last time, I don't know home long the hole has been there. Only explaination I have is that it got stuck in the gearwheel that connects the engine with the "gearbox" (hell I haven't messed around anything lately I've forgotten what things are called).

Second, while cleaning, the screw that holds the drive shaft in place got loose.
Luckily it happend while I cleaned it.. it's had to see the screw because it's "inside" the wheel.

[shelter]

Argghhh, I'm screwed. The car started and ran fine.. to start with. I ran it slowly just to run it in a bit.

Well.. after 5 mins. the car stopped but the engine was running and it didn't move when i pressed the throttle..
It turns out that a gear or something in the gearbox is stripped, I haven't opened it up... but the flywheel spin and all that.. and the gears are fine on the outside.

I haven't opened up the gearbox and that before so I have no idea what to expect. Any hints, pictures whatever? :confused:

BTW, if i spin on any of the rear wheels the other wheel doesn't follow. What can be wrong then?

[shelter]

Update:
I opened up the gearbox/diffcasing and found that there was nothing wrong in there.
The problem was that the screw that holds the "drive shaft cup" was loose on one side (closest to the diffcasing).

What I don't get is that only one of the cups were loose, so... with my logic it should've turned the flywheel/diffgear when I moved the wheel which cups was ok... But it didn't, why?

[DCLXVI]

Because of the diff, it automatically forces the power to the wheel with the least traction so if one tire are not connected and you spin the other one the diff will spin the non connected out-drive insted of the spur/cluch...

[shelter]

Ok... Thanks for the answer.

I have a small problem with the fuel line, it tend to get lose from the fueltank because the thing you connect the fuel line to on the tank is a bit short.
I have no idea how to prevent it from happening, if anyone got a solution to this issue please share it.

[neilwillis]

Can anyone tell me if the hex for the wheels are 12mm?

Cheers

Neil

[DT-10 basher]

this is to do witht attachin the fuel line to the bottom of the tank

Use super glue: it works wonders and will be guarentied not to fall off.

[DCLXVI]

Can anyone tell me if the hex for the wheels are 12mm?

Cheers

Neil

Huh? Did your truck come with hexes? Mine uses a pin...

[neilwillis]

Well there is no pin on mine, but i just got my tool kit out and a 7mm socket fits the bolt.

I think i my well be misunderstanding the different sizes.

I ask because i am looking at some wheels on eBay and they are for a Cen Funfactor. I asked if they would fit a DT10 and he said "If they have standard 12mm hex fit they should be fine "

Attached is a pic of my wheel. 12 is BIG. I dont think any car would have 12mm. Sorry for the low res. I used my phone to take it.

Neil

[DCLXVI]

I see, the hex normally would sit on the other side of the wheel attached to the drive axle, transmitting the power from the axle to the wheel, if you remove the wheel you are going to end up with a pin stick through a hole in the axle and not a hex...you could probably mount a 12mm hex onto there but I have not tested that...

If you are looking for new wheels, HPI sells some that comes with differnet adaptors so you should be able to fit them...

[shelter]

DT10-Basher:
Thanks for the super glue hint, why didn't I think of that myself? :rolleyes:

Neil:
If you think, 12mm (1.2cm) is quite big compared to the one on your car, yes. ;)

[shelter]

Hmm... got another problem here now.
The engine dies if there's any kind of resistance (like grass whatever) when increasing the throttle.
It's just like the engine isn't able to handle the resistance and therefor it dies.

I'm really lost about this one.. because when the wheels are in the air it seems to work fine..

I tried fiddling with the carborator setting but it didn't work that good, I noticed the engine kinda went to full throttle by itself... when i released the throttle on the radio the engine kept going on high revs. Very weird, the servo/receiver seems to be fine.

Ideas? Changing the glowplug maybe?

[DCLXVI]

Sound as if though your engine are really lean...try richening the mixture somewhat...and, if you are using the stock plug, I recommend you replace it with a QickFire F7, it's alot better...

[shelter]

I got a quickfire glow plug... but maybe it's bad now. I got an OS #8 which i can replace it with.
There's no sign of leaking anywhere so i don't think it's air coming into the engine either.

It's kinda weird....

[DCLXVI]

Try changing the plug and see, if it continues, reset the needle to 2,5 turns out from fully closed and try to adjust it from there...

[shelter]

Changed the plug... engine works nicely now. However there's still something odd with the rear part of the car. when the engine reaches high rev's the car does not accelerate as it should. The flywheel moves nicely.. but nothing happens, the car stands still.

Must be something that's not gripping as it should...

[DCLXVI]

Sounds as the old out-drive set-screw problem...

[shelter]

Not sure what you meant by the "Sounds as the old out-drive set-screw problem...", feel free to take that in swedish. :)

But it's ok now i think... at least it's better. I couldn't test it so much because it was raining and the batteries in the reciever was pretty much dead.

I *THINK* it had to do with the "drive shaft cup screws", they weren't in the correct position. Took the "diffcasing/gearbox" apart again and cleaned the inside and corrected those screws... applied some grease and put it all back.

[DCLXVI]

out-drive set-screw = drive shaft cup screws :D

[shelter]

The car's falling apart, now it looks like the steering servo has given up on me.
I'll probably go with the HiTec HS545 or something like that.

The fuelbottle is broken aswell, damn plastic crap, so I gotta buy that too.

I also need new tires... not sure which ones I should get but I want them to be good at most surfaces. Grass, gravel, asphalt etc...

Oh well... I see the money just flying away...

[DCLXVI]

While you are at it you might aswell try and order from www.towerhobbies.com and pick up som HPI rims and tires, a fuel bottle, a throttle and a steering servo...the HS545 are quite good for the steering, the 645 or perhaps the 625 would be even better though...for throttle, I recommend the HS525, it can handle the duty pretty well...

Tire, I'd recommend the HPI GeoLandar (on all paws)...

[shelter]

I got a few questions then...

Why do I need rims too, won't the ones I have fit the geolandar tires? Which ones should I get if I need new ones?
I kinda liked these tires also.. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU11&P=ML - Will they fit?

And regarding the servos, there seem to be different types of them, which type do I need? For example there's "Hitec HS-545BBS Servo High Torque S/JR/Z" and "Hitec HS-545BBS Servo High Torque J".

[DCLXVI]

They will fit but I find them on the weak side...I havent acually tested the HPI rims but they sould fit (if you get the ones that says fits all 2,2" trucks)...
I have no experience with the dirtpaws but I hear they are good...I'm using the GeoLandar on the other hand and they are super, good grip and low wear...
Get the cheapest servos, the only differance is that the "J" (Futaba IIRC) connector has a small flange that needs to be cut (this is a complete no-brainer, I'd trust my little sister to do it)...

[shelter]

If I'm gonna buy rims I really need to be sure they're ok with the DT-10.
I have no idea if these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWX54&P=7 works for example.

[DT-10 basher]

why dont you just get the original rims for the dt cause they are pretty cheap and good

[shelter]

Because those look cooler? :)
And I don't think Towerhobbies have any TTR parts at all. :(

[DCLXVI]

One part is that it may look cooler but more importantly, I think that they would hold up better...but if you don't want to try it's ok...I will order some next time I get stuff from tower...I'll have to order some RC10 parts to see if they fit the DT-10, more on that later...

Tower carries some TT parts but mostly heli/EK-4/motorcycle parts...

[neilwillis]

Hello guys,

Can you tell me how i add oil to the suspension as i took my truck out on Sunday and was using it over some rough ground and the bottom is now like sand paper.

What procedure do i need to follow and what oil is best.


Oh, and is there a battery i can buy rather then keep putting AA's in. I have a square 4.8v battery pack form my RC Glider, but its a 3 pin connector type. Is there a 2 pin available as wall as a 2 pin switch?


Thanks


Neil

[DCLXVI]

To add oil you simply unscrew the top of the damper...add the oil and screw the top back on...

Try using 30 or 40 depending on how hard you want it...

(higher number = thicker fluid)