TTR Dt-10

[DCLXVI]

Since I could find no thread covering this Stadium Truck I might as well start one...

There must be more ppl than me that owns one...

I live in Sweden and I have had this one for three weeks now (has been incapacitated this week due to cracked rear suspension tower) but I have found the car to be quite durable and fun to drive, my cousin will recive a Kyosho USA-1 any day now and I hope that I can beat him in some way (more on this later)...

If anyone reads this and live in Sweden (near Stockholm) it would be great to race some (even different Stadium Truck IE Kyosho Ultima GP/EP ect)

/DCLXVI

[R/C_Newbie19]

Jag ska nog köpa en... e den bra? hur snabb e den?

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by R/C_Newbie19
Jag ska nog köpa en... e den bra? hur snabb e den?

Hmm...snabb...tillräckligt :) runt 30-50 blås...
Man behöver inte så mycket hastighet i början, det är nog svårt att köra ändå...

/DCLXVI

[TitansGT4]

ne1 in here speak english?

[DCLXVI]

Yes!

/DCLXVI

[TitansGT4]

do you like this truck?

[DCLXVI]

Love it...

It's tough, it's fast, it's cheap...

There are some minor errors on it...
The rear shock tower has a design flaw that makes the screws holding the shocks bend but I haven't had any problems with them snapping, just bend the other way...I'l look into building a alu plate to mount behind the shocktower so that it supports the screws from behind...

Otherwise (not conting HEAVY abuse) this truck is built to last, almost every thing exept A/H arms are T6 aluminium (virtually unbrakeble (by hand anyway))

Also the body is somewhat ugly but not worse than any other stadium trucks I've seen, will look at a new body for my DT-10 (leaning towards BoLink Dodge Charger, if I only can have it deliverd cheeap to Sweden)...

I just installed different rear tires, must go and find glue for them, I drove so hard to day that the glue came off the outside of the rims... :)

Oh, I also liked the feature that the tires comes with inserts already installed, that was a suprise to me...

I'll post some pictures of my (dirty) truck later today (2-3 hours)

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

was looking into getting one of these myself a while back...LHS wanted about £260 for one in RTR form....decided to buy a Schumacher XTR-21 instead...great parts avaliability as it's english truck, very fast 'cos it has a (thundertiger).21 engine and only slightly more expensive than the DT-10 in RTR at £280....


what engine does the DT-10 come with as standard?? i was told by the guy in the hobby store that you could easily put a .21 in it (same engine as the one in mine)....and combined with a 2-speed box it would do roughly 70mph!!

do you have the optional sabattini tuned exhaust for yours???

[R/C_Newbie19]

the dt-10 comes with a .15 pro thundertiger engine at 0.6 bph

[DCLXVI]

everything exept rear tires and front springs are stock on mine so far...

I don't think that would be that much troubble mounting a .21 on a DT-10, but you would definitly have to tinker alot! ;)

The only thing I'm having troubble with now is the bodymount pins, they break when you roll w/o the body on... :( new ones are like $2 or something like that...then you get the stock ones a pair that is longer (for different bodys) and servo monts and the poles that keeps the radio deck in place...

/DCXLVI

Will post pics soon...

[carerra]

you say the DT-10 is fast with a 0.6bhp .15 in a 1/10 truck....you should see my schumacher with 2.1bhp in a 1/10 scale truck....now that is quick!!!

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by carerra
you say the DT-10 is fast with a 0.6bhp .15 in a 1/10 truck....you should see my schumacher with 2.1bhp in a 1/10 scale truck....now that is quick!!!

I'm just saying that the DT-10 is fast enough!
I'm having trouble finding places to run my car as it is...

Besides, this is my first car, I don't think that I could handel that speed...

btw, you know that the engine in the XTR (or whatever) is made by Thunder Tiger ;)

That will be next winters project, mounting a .21 engine in my DT-10 :D

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

the schumacher was my first car too...didn't have ANY experience with r/c cars at all but my mate got one, so i wanted one that was faster than his...hence the XTR.

yeah the 21 in my car is the TT Pro-21 with the pull start....good engine, easy to tune.

[DCLXVI]

Three pictures from yesterday...

Somewhat small but I haven't got the time to resieze the originals....

I can mail full sieze pictures (why would anyone want them ;) ?!?!)

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

...

[pistole]

Dear All,

This is my first post here. I had recently bought a TTR DT-10 (RTR) and I am absolutely astounded by the performance of these modern nitro-cars. It is far too fast for me , especially since I am just starting with Nitro.

Anyhow , I have 2 questions :-

(a) Would an upgrade ( later perhaps ) , to an OS CV engine be
possible with this car ? What modifications would be
needed ?

(b) As regards to the fuel , I plan to mix my own ( ie 80%
Methanol and 20% castor-oil , without any Nitro ) , is this
adviseable ? I used to do this years ago , and got a
reasonable level of performance , but with lots of dirty gunk
flying out of the exhaust . Your views please .


NB :- Please always check the tightness of the drive-crowns
that exit the gearbox. They got loose with mine and
completely lost drive , I thought that my gearbox was
shot. There is a little recessed allen-screw if your rotate
the wheel and you can see it and just insert the allen
key to tighten it.


Best regards.

Bye.

[carerra]

to get a decent level of performance i'd suggest you use nitro in your fuel....as for an upgrade, i believe the thundertiger pro-21 engine will fit....therefore making it VERY fast.

[DCLXVI]

I can recomend Pro-Line tires for better grip when using the car in real off-road conditions (not "blue groove")
These are the tires I'm using:

[DCLXVI]

pistole : a) Yes, any small block .15 engine should fit as the mounts are standard size...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Great pic of the tyre. I will definitely look for them at my hobbystore the next time I go down there.

I am planning to get bearings to replace the bushes mounted
on the wheel shafts. Are these bearings generic in nature?
Ie , are they obtainable from any general bearing merchant
since bearings are all governed by two numbers ( namely
internal and external diameters ) ?

If so , I would probably just pop down to the bearing merchant
and buy rather that pay absurd prices at the hobby shop for
basically the same item.

Your views please. Thanks again.

[DCLXVI]

The tire is called (I think) Trac-Ta-Gator or (more problable) Dirt Paw and the addres for pro-line is www.pro-lineracing.com

try thoose tires if you feel that your car spins alot, I know that I thought that - "hey, I can't get anywhere!!!! I'm just spinning everywhere!!!"

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Hey , thanks alot for the help with the tyres.

My DT10 also seems very happy to slide all over , I guess thats
a Nitro 2WD truck's trademark !

But it is really quick ....

Bye.

[pistole]

Please post . .... if not the thread will DIE.

Anyway , my DT 10 is going great , I bought the bearings already
for the four wheels and she's really flying now.

Bye.

[DCLXVI]

Dang, I want the bearings too...! :P
Pistole : did you try thoose tires?
It's getting hard to find places to run here in Sweden as it is getting colder and the ground is starting to freeze :(
Problably will have to change back to the org. tires or the new ones will tear to quick :(

I'm looking at a new body anyways and it will probably be a Volvo 850 station wagon BTCC body that will replace the Ford F-150 one that comes with the car...

Don't let the thread die!!!

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Great to hear from you !

Anyhow , those bearings are really cheap here, the
complete set of 8 pieces ( 4 for the 2 front wheels AND
4 for the 2 Hub-Carriers Behind ) is about USD10-00
only.

Send me a note if you need them.

As for those tyres , I did check out my local hobby
store , but they stock only the original-style tyres.
They did say that they would try out other tyres for
me and see if they fit , anyhow ..................

My DT is going great , but recently the batteries in
my Transmitter died ( dry-cells ). So now I am looking
for NiCd cells to replace them , but , oh my god , 12
pieces ........ i am gonna have to rob the bank !

Bye.

[DCLXVI]

At least we are two Pistole ;)
Those bearings are all four the same size?

Hehe, I had my reciver batterys die on me, almost crached into a concrete pipe, managed to avoid it but smacked one of the rims...no damage...
/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Ohhh...two pages!!! :))

[pistole]

Dear DCLxvi .........


The bearings are as follows :-

(a) front : "1150" - Four pieces,

(b) rear : "1050" - Four Pieces.

Remember to bring the car along when you buy just to make
sure that they fit. Any decent bearing merchant will stock
these "micro-bearings".


After changing to Dyamite ( 20% nitro ) fuel , my car does not idle so good , ie after about 5-10 seconds of idling , the engine splutters to a halt ( probably due to flooding - snuffing out the
glowplug ).... what to you recommend , a hotter plug ?

I don't dare to lean it out too much , she's still almost , a virgin....

But once when I guess I did lean it out too much ( about 1 turn ) , she was REALLY FLYING .....


Bye.


Hey , 2 WHOLE PAGES........... best regards.

[DCLXVI]

16% nitro is what I'm running, didn't really noticed the difference from 10% but then I haven't run that much either...
Problem ideling you say, can it be that the engine gets to hot? Seems to be abit fast with 10-15 secs but could be...
Last time I run I couldn't get the car lean enough, the car just died on me on high revs... I think that my carb is somehow damaged, there is a dent in the end of the exaust header, and I think I know where I got that dent. I was running in a gravel parking lot, when I hit something that made my exaust pipe came off, and my carb was askew, now when I pump fuel from the tank, the carb leaks fuel onto the engine...guess I will have to check the gasket if there is one...the car works thats the importand thing... ;)

[carerra]

when it cuts out it's 'cos the crankcase becomes flooded with fuel, i bet when ya blip the throttle after it's been idling for a bit, it spurts out tons of smoke and sounds a bit course?? this is ok, though it means your bottom end it a slightly rich...if ya have a bottom end needle you may wanna screw it in 1/8 turn... as for moving to a higher nitro content, your gonna have to change your plug...theres an article on www.rcnitro.com which explains things a bit....

[pistole]

You are spot on about the spluttering , and throttle blip , and then the smoke from the exhaust !!!!!!!!!

I guess when I blip the throttle , the crankcase is cleared of the
excess fuel that was making the engine falter....... thus the
smoke from the exhaust.

There is unfortunately , no low speed needle on this particular
carburettor , only the High Speed needle adjustment is available and therefore , there is a bit of compromise , I guess...

The article in rcnitro.com about tuning states that all the engine needs to be able to do is a steady 10 secs idle before dying , because there are no prizes for the car that idles the longest....
and if it can idle properly indefinitely , the mixture is Probably,
too lean...

Anyway , the car is running great ( plenty of power ) , the handling is so-so ( I go mostly on asphalt ) , the shock-springs are way too soft and the shock oil too thin.

Any recommendations about changing the shocks ? I would like to get rid of those tacky plastic shocks and get a nice set of aluminium ones .....

I'll get my digital camera later and take a few pics for y'all . How do I post these pics ?

Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

The article that I mentioned from RCNITRO.COM is as follows ( the relevant part only ) .........

__________________________________________________

Another common way is the “see-how-long-it-will-idle” method. The low-speed needle adjustment affects how long the engine will idle. A too lean fuel mixture causes the engine to race and possibly stall, limiting the duration of a steady idle. A too rich low-speed-mixture setting causes the engine idle to steadily drop and eventually stall. The ideal setting allows the engine to hold a smooth, steady idle for 10 to 20 seconds (max), and then the engine rpm decrease steadily because the crankcase loads up with fuel. Why? There are no awards given for the longest-idling engine. If the engine is able to idle steadily for a longer time, then it may start to lean out and heat up during a race and make it difficult to drive the car and keep the engine running. The only flaw in this method is that it doesn’t tell you whether you have an artificially rich mixture to compensate for an idle speed that’s too high.

__________________________________________________


As for your carb troubles , DCLXVI , sorry to hear about them but do try to take off the carb , clean the needle and jet , check if the o-ring under the carb is ok and apply a LITTLE bit of silicone sealer to the o-ring in order to ensure no air-leak.

Are you happy with the fuel primer thing on the fuel tank ?

When I try to use mine to prime the engine , sometimes the fuel simply refuses to "walk up" the pipe , instead , the fuel goes back and forth in the pipe according to my pumping of the pump... really strange.... I think that maybe the one-way valve in the pump is sticking ..... any views ? If so , how do I open up the pump ? Or should I just throw the pump away .....

Just a bit of bad news , I rolled the car the other day and damaged ( scratched only , thank goodness ) the cylinder head. I hate to run with the body - it is really slow to put on , and what with my idling situation ....... LOL ....

Any ideas about a ROLL CAGE ? That would be COOL , ya ?

Bye and safe runnings.

[carerra]

Originally posted by pistole


Any ideas about a ROLL CAGE ? That would be COOL , ya ?

Bye and safe runnings.

i think a lot of people use cable(zip) ties....thread them through the vanes at the top of the cooling head and tighten them up....then it's the ties which hit the dirt first - well in theory anyway.


also regarding your primer...if your trying to do it when the engine is hot, the fuel will vapourise when it get to the hot carb, expand, and then force the other fuel back down the pipe.....if it's doing it when cold then it's probably a dodgy primer....

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by carerra

also regarding your primer...if your trying to do it when the engine is hot, the fuel will vapourise when it get to the hot carb, expand, and then force the other fuel back down the pipe.....if it's doing it when cold then it's probably a dodgy primer....

This is the problem I posted on ace hobby about...

[carerra]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
This is the problem I posted on ace hobby about...


i'm canned_heat on that forum...it's my usual screen name but was used already on here...

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by carerra
i'm canned_heat on that forum...it's my usual screen name but was used already on here...

Oh, ok...I tried shortening the fuel line (under the radio tray behind the engine) and that works pretty good...of course the line goes quite near the flywheel. That time I was talking about (when I think I broke my carb) the fuel line almost ruptured against the flywheel, there is almost a 1 mm deep 4-5 mm long cut in my old line (changed it)...

[pistole]

Yup , I finally crashed it big time. I was going all out , then trying to turn a corner , the DT started a four wheel slid , I could control the slide ( it was a very pretty four wheel slide ) , then ...... the curb ............................

Well , I BENT the rear-right-upper control arm ( I took it off , and bent it back straight ) .

The rear-right-lower swing arm got shifted ( it can move a little even with the two screws holding the mounting ) which I missed when fixing the DT , so when I test drove it , she was moving around like a CRAB.

Finally traced it to that Lower Arm mounting , sorted it out ... and she's going great guns again !!!

BUT the rear tyres are bald ( after just 2 weeks of hard asphalt running - I deserve it I guess ).

I solved the matter with the priming-pump .... the trick is not to pump on it vigourously ( unlike other pursuits ..... ) what you need to do is to push it all the way down , watch the fuel WALK up the pipe , then , HOLD THE PUMP DOWN for a second or so , and THEN ONLY release the pump and repeat till the fuel reached the Carb ... just a bit of fuel will do , if not you'll flood the damn thing and it'll be a bear to start.

Best regards and safe runnings !

[pistole]

Dear DCLXVI / Carerra ,


Do you guys run your cars with any Camber at all ? Since I do most of my trashing on asphalt , I was thinking of setting the wheels at a bit of Negative ( is that correct ? ) camber , like the racers do with their road cars.

As for the Toe in , I notice that the DT has inherent toe in for the two rear wheels but none for the front .... is this correct ? I thought that the front ought to be toed in slightly to take into account the opening-stress when the car is running fast....

Maybe my DT could have made that Turn without meeting that CURB if my camber was in place..... just an optimistic thought there.......

AND , that DT is really fast ............ I love it !


I thinking of getting a EK 4 just for Fun. I know there are other threads for that truck , but what do you guys think of it ? Have TTR solved the problems with that .70 engine ( ie the ring/piston breakage ) ??

Thanks and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Ugh! Two posts dissapered!!!
Ugh! me have changed wheel angels, tell more later
Ugh! me posts picture now!

[carerra]

regarding the camber/toe in.....toe in at the rear will make it turn in better, same with toe in at the front....toe in at the front though can make the car less stable at higher speeds though, so i run a bit of toe out on my front wheels instead....this makes it more stable at higher speeds - which in my case can by 50mph :D :D

as for camber run negative all around....about 2degrees neg front and back should be good as this'll give better grip during turns...

[DCLXVI]

Ahhhh....sweeeeet nitro, sweeeeet metanhol, sweeeet, sweeeet DT-10, had two runs today, the first nearrly ended in dissaster, the second was just, sweeeeeeeet... :)

The first was in a (abandoned?) quarry and went so and so, my shocks are to ridgid so my car jumps lot on uneven terrain. The bad part was the end of the ride, newly refilled, just started, 2m meters and I heard a sound like stone against metal and the engine just stopped. When I tried to start with the pull-starter I heard a sound not unlike the sound of metal against stone. Me and a friend went to his place and I was prepared for the worst, that some grain of stone or simillar had enterd the engine and the engine was toast...or that (simply) something simillar had happend to the pullstart.
How very pleased I became when I found that a small stone had lodged itselfe between the cluch and the starterbox hole, after removal the tires turned normally and the pullstart sounded all-right, witch brings us to the second tour of the day...

Since it was getting somewhat late (aabout 16:00) and there isn't really much daylight here in Sweden in the autum/winter, me and my friend choose a place not very far from his place, a gravel football field, quite small but with quite loose surface and a hill right next to it...man that was a blast! Almost entierly troublesome, no damage, 1,5 tanks of fuel in like 30 minutes...

/DCLXVI

btw pistole : I think you sould try using 40w oil in your shocks and run your suspension abit like mine, I have almost the lowest run height and about half of maximum chamber both in the front and rear, really good for asphalt!

[pistole]

Hey , thanks for the replies ....... I am going to set the camber as soon as I can , but its a bit of a nuisance since the turnbuckles do not have the portion in the center for gripping , its just a plain rod threaded at both ends. ..... which means I will have to take off one of the tie-rod-ends ( which I try to avoid because it eventually loosens the joint ).

Dear DCL ,

Great pic ! But I noticed that you have not zip-tied your cylinder head ...... better do that soon ........ if not you're going to damage that head the first time you roll the DT ... like I did ....


Dear Carerra,

Are you sure that the front wheels ought to be toed-out ? I mean with our normal full size cars , the front wheels are always toed in to take into account the opening of the wheels when the car in on the move.... but I'll defer to your learned opinion herein in view of the obvious wealth of RC knowledge displayed by your goodself ... ALL HAIL CARERRA ! ALL HAIL CARERRA !

Sorry , just a bit of leg pulling here.............

Thanks ang safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole
[...]
Dear DCL ,

Great pic ! But I noticed that you have not zip-tied your cylinder head ...... better do that soon ........ if not you're going to damage that head the first time you roll the DT ... like I did ....
[...]

Too late...

[pistole]

is a must if you don't want a C-Head looking like it got mangled.

Anyhow , the DT is going great - save for the bald rear tyres (I have already bought new ones - Original Equipment - there wasn't anything else available ! ).


Be carefull , all DT owners , the battery pack is sometimes minded to slip loose from its Zip Tie Holder and render your DT a runaway ( what with there being no throttle return spring ) . So please wrap alot of stout rubber bands around the battery pack and stuff it into the big Zip Tie and band it tight.

Please , also remember to bag the receiver to prevent the ingress of water AND wrap the Receiver in dense-foam to cut out the vibration.

Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole
is a must if you don't want a C-Head looking like it got mangled.

It already does...I'll be a top contender for ugliest/most mangeld heatsink, I have drilled some in it and crashed it and put a saw in it...

[...]

Be carefull , all DT owners , the battery pack is sometimes minded to slip loose from its Zip Tie Holder and render your DT a runaway ( what with there being no throttle return spring ) . So please wrap alot of stout rubber bands around the battery pack and stuff it into the big Zip Tie and band it tight.

Been there done that... ;) fixed it...
I think that you can arrange the break linkage to work as a TRS...I'll check that out...

Please , also remember to bag the receiver to prevent the ingress of water AND wrap the Receiver in dense-foam to cut out the vibration.

Fixed that to...

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

Originally posted by pistole



I thinking of getting a EK 4 just for Fun. I know there are other threads for that truck , but what do you guys think of it ? Have TTR solved the problems with that .70 engine ( ie the ring/piston breakage ) ??

Thanks and safe runnings.


haven't really heard much about the engine problems, but have heard that the diffs are about as good as a chocolate teapot.
apparently to make the truck pretty decent you gotta spend nearly $1000....this is from what i've heard/read any way...

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by carerra
haven't really heard much about the engine problems, but have heard that the diffs are about as good as a chocolate teapot.
apparently to make the truck pretty decent you gotta spend nearly $1000....this is from what i've heard/read any way...

Thats probably fixed with the S2...

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

Originally posted by pistole


Be carefull , all DT owners , the battery pack is sometimes minded to slip loose from its Zip Tie Holder and render your DT a runaway ( what with there being no throttle return spring ) . So please wrap alot of stout rubber bands around the battery pack and stuff it into the big Zip Tie and band it tight.

Bye and safe runnings.


get yourself a failsafe...easy to fit - go between the reciever and throttle servo. if anything goes wrong it'll cut in and put your throttle servo to a predetermined position...i.e max brakes.

[DCLXVI]

All work and no play...
I'm currently cleaning the car, I have decided to tear it down to molecules (sp?) and clean every singel bit while I wait for some spares...

Any of you had any problem with stock screws, I have been forced to drill of the heads of four screws because the X has been made an O ...if you catch my drift...
Yesterday when I tried getting the screw that holds the steering linkage from beneeth loose I slipped and put the screw driver with about 60-70 kgs of preassure into my thumb...luckely it didn't hit my thumb straight on from above or I would have had a nice hole or atleast a nice dent in the bone...just got a ,5 x 1,0 cm flesh wound...

I'm really recomending 40w oil for your dampers pistole, and see if I can find that part number for the spring set from Kyosho...
Myselfe I will try with 20-30w oil in my dampers as I have found the 40w Im currently running with is to thick for offroading...

If I can put the car together in time for the weekend I will go to a recently opened RC track not far from here...It's 40 km away and that is the second closest, the fist being 25 km away... :(

Well, anyway, good luck with your trucks!
btw, I have recived msgs from two Swedish guys wondering if the car is any good, I told them the truth : It's really darn good! :D
So there may be one or two more people from around my parts (well same country anyways) owning one of theese sweet, sweet little things :)

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

because although I have just bought new rear tires for my DT, I am thinking of glueing a strip of rubber onto the old tyres to 'extend' their seviceable lives. Is this possible or am I wasting my time ?


Anyhow , the DT is going strong , I have set the camber already and she's cornering better , less slippin-and-sliding.

My local hobby store is bringing in the new EK4 (V2) next month with the revised 'everything' , does anyone here know anything about this truck ? The store had an old EK4 ( used ) on display and the truck is Huge ! It sure looks the part .......

As for anyone asking about the DT , I strongly recommend it for beginners since it is :-

(a) relatively cheap,
(b) simple to maintain ( 2wd ), and
(c) simple to fix if broken ( less parts ).

AND 2wd is a great platform to learn Nitro driving since if you can handle a 2wd Nitro truck on wet asphalt roads , them 4wds are peanuts !!!!

Thanks and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Hi pistole,

Gluing rubber to the old tires are, depending on your craves for performance, as that is going to decrease the grip and stability if you are not extremly careful...
If you do mostly asphalt running, why not run the tires until the break in two? Slicks sould suite you good on tarmac...

EK-4, are you sure you want a Monster Truck if you mostly do asphalt? That sould increase mechanical tear...

Pistole (or anyone else for that matter), do you have experience with any other nitro cars? Are the DT-10 any good caompared to any else. The place I bought it from recomended it insted of the Kyosho Ultima Stadium Truck I had in mind from the beginning since it was better built from the beginning...

One thing I've noticed with the DT-10 compared to almost all the other Stadium Trucks I've seen the DT-10 has much higer ride height...witch makes for better off-road manouverability (sp?)

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Ohhh...ahhhh....three pages!!!

:D
=)

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

well , yes , the DT does have a fair amount of it - which suits me fine in view of the fact that I use my friendly neighbourhood manhole covers as jumping-off bases when I am running the car.

I love the sound of the engine letting go when she goes air-borne.........

And yup , THREE WHOLE pages ! Great effort , DCL & Carerra !

Best regards and safe runnings.

[arsonist678]

i have never really owned an RC car
is i a good idea to get a DT-10 to start out with
because a RTR DT-10 is just as much as a T3
and nitro seems cooler and i always have to have the fastest

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by arsonist678
i have never really owned an RC car
is i a good idea to get a DT-10 to start out with
because a RTR DT-10 is just as much as a T3
and nitro seems cooler and i always have to have the fastest

Welcome to the wonderful world of Nitro RC, whatever car you get you can be certain that you will enjoy it to it's fullest...

A word of warning : Long and twisting reply ;)

The DT-10 is a good beginners car but it's not really the fastest since it is an heavy duty off-road car, but it certanly is fast.
Mabey a nitro isn't the first step inte RC since one can expect a sharp learning curve, but on the other hand, one will be rewarded for the lessons really fast...
Being quite new to RC, my DT-10 (purcashed about a month ago) are the first car I have had. When I decided to buy an RC car I had wanted to for about 17 years (I'm 24 now) and I found that I had the economy for it now... :)

Being my first car I can't really compare it to anything, but I tink it performes really good and it can (quite) easily be configured to different surface conditions by adjusting ride height, chamber angel and toe-in/out and also changing shock oil will dramatically change the way the car behaves. This car will also accept the 2.2" standart tires made by Pro-Line and others witch is also important to consider...

The leaning curve is hard, but not that hard and there will be alot of maintanence but that goes for ANY nitro vehicle that you buy and some in the long run for elec. An off-road car will ofcourse require more cleaing and probably more broken parts than an on-road but the possibilities are almost limitless with a Nitro off-road as the run time are about 2-4 hours for the servo batterys and about 8 hours for the radio and probably a few days with a gallon of 10-20% nitro fuel...
It took about 2-3 weeks to figure all the do-and-don'ts of my DT-10 but it's really starting to pay off big time...
Also being 24 and working as a service engineer has problably helped me with some the mantainance...


/DCLXVI

[carerra]

dunno if you get it with your trucks, but i found on my Schumacher that when i raised it's ride height, by adding more spacers to the shocks, it was popping wheelies like all the time.....actually got rather annoying so i decided to lower it again.
only raised it in the first place to stop it scratching on this real bumpy, potholey road outside my house.



can't remember if i've included a pic of my car before.....but here's one anyway...

[DCLXVI]

On the DT-10 you can change the ride height by changing the mount holes for the springs there are : 4 - Upper Back, 3 - Lower Back, 3 - Upper Front, 2 - Lower Front

Back is ofcourse the rear and front the front...
Upper is the shock towers and lower is the A/H arms...

/DCLXVI

[Gas_axe]

Hi all ,just stumbled across your site,and well nice it is.Just got myself a DT-10 in ready to race format at £220.00 it sounded like a good deal, never done any I.C stuff before but after 2 days of playing it all seems straight forward.

I do have two questons thou
1)when setting the fast running mixture I beleave the engine needs to be hot,how long does it take for the engine to reach normal running temp

2)is there any racing clubs in the UK for I.C cars, as eight of these beasts running around a track could be fun :D

[carerra]

Originally posted by Gas_axe
Hi all ,just stumbled across your site,and well nice it is.Just got myself a DT-10 in ready to race format at £220.00 it sounded like a good deal, never done any I.C stuff before but after 2 days of playing it all seems straight forward.

I do have two questons thou
1)when setting the fast running mixture I beleave the engine needs to be hot,how long does it take for the engine to reach normal running temp

2)is there any racing clubs in the UK for I.C cars, as eight of these beasts running around a track could be fun :D

hope you broke the engine in properly!!!

normal running temps in a minimum of about 30secs...depends on ambient temperature...i reccomend getting a venom digital temperature gauge to accurately monitor the temp of your engine...so you know if it's cooking or in the sweet spot....avaliable from your local hobby shop (LHS)

as for clubs....take a look at http://www.brca.org/ to find a club local to you

[arsonist678]

thanx DCLXVI
I know a lot about engines and i work on mechanical stuff all the time so maintenece and tuning shouldnt be hard
two more questions
is a nitro worth the money and
is a dt-10 forgiving

[pistole]

well sure it is , she's 2wd , simple mechanicals , easy to maintain and easy to configure yourself.

If you have too much money on hand , well , I suppost you could get something like the MP5 Kanai Edition by Kyosho which is loaded which just about every gizmo out there to make it go faster. But , heaven forbid if she crashed / breaks down because you're gonna need to be very experienced , I suppose , to , first, know what is wrong , and second , to know how to fix it.

The DT is easy to learn , and already too fast in stock form for us beginners and being an off-road car , can just about go anywhere unlike a road-car.

The DT is also superior to electric , no need to elaborate , once you've heard the roar of Nitro , you're sold already , no need to even look at them electric-whiners anymore......

[pistole]

well , I did the camber on my DT's front wheels , and I guess I overdid it and she's behaving strangely now ..... time to dial it out again.

AND remember to tighten those grub-screws on the g/box drive cups !! They can easily loosen and make you lose drive.

Best regards and safe runnings.

[R/C_Newbie19]

HI! I shuld reylley want the dt-10 but i already have a good radio and a os-max .21 engine. So i wonder if it exists an artr there it u at least need a radio (or engine)??

////tHx R/C_Newbie19

[DCLXVI]

.21 wont fit without extra refitting/drilling of the chassis, but there are a ARTR without radio and probably without servos...

/DCLXVI

[R/C_Newbie19]

Kan du ta de på svenska? (ja fattar inte riktigt)

[DCLXVI]

Just finnished cleaning the diff...man I like this SO much!!! I have found out that no part in the car is smaller than one centimeter exept for screws and such...
I have applied a different grease in my diff than was in there stock, I will probably get less diff action and less "one wheel drive" - you know when one tire hasn't got any traction and that one is the one doing all the spinning :)
More on this later...
Tomorrow I'm going to my LHS to get some 20-30w shock oil...mabey I'll get better handling in rough terrain than my current 40w oil...mabey all the parts I ordered has arrived as well :D

Originally posted by R/C_Newbie19
Kan du ta de på svenska? (ja fattar inte riktigt)

Visst...

För att få i en .21 motor måste du troligtvis modifiera chassitet en aning...
Jag är ingen expert men jag tror inte att .21 motorn har samma storlek på fästena som .15 har som sitter i bilen...

Um..har jag pratat med dig förut? Folk har ju inte alltid samma namn på olika tjänster...

Message to everyone that couldn't understand a word of that...I was just explaining and elaborating in swedish what I stated in my previous post...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

is that Differential difficult to strip down ?

I have been meaning to do so for a while now , but just have not had the time and was , maybe , a little afraid of really opening up my new-baby.

Is there anything to look out for when taking it apart ?


SHOCK OIL
__________

I was just wondering ( being the cheapskate that I am ) , would ordinary motor-engine-oil do as shock oil ?

My local hobby store does sell shock oil of different weights , so maybe I could buy them there .........

AND , are your shocks leaking oil ?


IDLING PROBLEM
______________

Well , I have also sorted this out. Just let her idle faster !


CAMBER ANGLES
______________

I actually put the negative camber at a whopping 5+ Degrees for the front wheels and 1+ Degrees at the rear. The car initially was a little strange to drive , but the handling on asphalt was very secure .... I think I will let if grow on me for a while before changing it again.


TRANSMITTER/RECEIVER BATTERIES
______________________________


AAUGH ! My batts are dead AGAIN ! Should I change to NiCDs or NiMH ? Is it worth it ?



Thanks and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole
is that Differential difficult to strip down ?

I have been meaning to do so for a while now , but just have not had the time and was , maybe , a little afraid of really opening up my new-baby.

Is there anything to look out for when taking it apart ?

It wasn't really difficult, just watch out for the grease, it sould be really much and very dirty....there is also a gasket in there, just be careful and you sould be fine...

Just make sure you put diff grease in there not just any grease...

SHOCK OIL
__________

I was just wondering ( being the cheapskate that I am ) , would ordinary motor-engine-oil do as shock oil ?

My local hobby store does sell shock oil of different weights , so maybe I could buy them there .........

AND , are your shocks leaking oil ?

Buy the oil there, most shock oils are silicone based and are of a constant resistance type and will not harm the plastics in the shock...I have no idea if motor-oil does all this but be on the safe side...motor oil is also quite hazardous (if we are talking 4-stroke here)...
No, my shocks were leeking oil after two - three runs but than I changed it and I was fine...

[...]


CAMBER ANGLES
______________

I actually put the negative camber at a whopping 5+ Degrees for the front wheels and 1+ Degrees at the rear. The car initially was a little strange to drive , but the handling on asphalt was very secure .... I think I will let if grow on me for a while before changing it again.

Negative? \--/ (seen from the front) or positive /--\ (also fron the front) that is how I think it was....

TRANSMITTER/RECEIVER BATTERIES
______________________________


AAUGH ! My batts are dead AGAIN ! Should I change to NiCDs or NiMH ? Is it worth it ?


In the long run YES...just make sure you buy a pack you don't have to remove from the car to charge...

Thanks and safe runnings.

[pistole]

Date : 17th October 2002.

Dear DCL ,

I think ( but stand to be corrected ) that :-

(a) Negative Camber is
( as seen from the front ) /----\


(b) Positive Camber is
( as seen from the front ) \----/



Ummmm , any experts out there ?

Best regards and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

I stand corrected...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

today whilst running it in my carpark ! Thank goodness for the zip ties on the cylinder head - saved me from more mangling.

The car is going great , and I am going to visit my Local Hobby Store to look for a set of aluminium shocks for my DT - the stock
plastic ones really look very tacky.

Are the tyres the standard 2.2" type ? If so , can I just buy any usual 2.2" tyres to replace the ones that are worn ? I bought Original tyres already but the thread pattern is not convincing and I want lower profile asphalt tyres on my DT.

Anyone out there familiar with these 2.2" tyres ( are they standard size ) ?

Have to also source a set of NiCd for the transmitter and receiver soon !


WARNING : -
____________


All DT users , if your throttle servo twitches when you apply full lock on the steering ( so you end up with a strange car that automatically blips its own throttle when you're just trying to turn her slowly round - with laughable results ! ) YOUR RECEIVER'S BATTERIES ARE ALMOST DEAD. Please replace them as soon as possible.

That reminds me to fashion a throttle return spring ........


Thanks and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I forgot to mention that my DT seems able to idle when upside down !

Kind of cute , that DT !

[pistole]

those shocks on your DT , are they stock items ?

If you've changed them , what did you buy ? I'm very interested in replacing the stock plastic ( ahem ... composite ) shocks with aluminium ones .....


As for your Engine Mixture Needle setting ( broken in already ) , how many turns have you set on it ? I have it at 1 1/2 ( one and a half ) turns -- she seems to be enjoying it ......

Thanks and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

At work, hung over, tired as hell...

Shocks are stock, needle at 2,5 turns will try lower...
Idle uside down...for how long?
Tires are standard 2.2" I have ProLine Tracta-Gator rear...but don't try to run thoose on tarmac...
Any shocks sould fit just as lon the ball mounts fits....
Try and see if you can use the break linkage as a TRS...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

was it nitro induced , I wonder ?


Anyhow , I was running it fine when the rear suspension bottomed out , on inspection , the top shock-post screw had broken (!) - the result of me bending if back straight after bending it a couple of times crashing it .................

So a trip to the LHS was needed .... where I got a new screw , a couple of steel nuts with nylon-inserts to replace the plastic ones (the yellow useless plastic nuts .... ).

I wanted a set of aluminium shocks , they didn't have them in stock - so I have to put that mod on hold.

AND , had a look at the Version II EK4 monster truck by TTR .... it was magnificent ( that .70 engine is huge ) - the new Cylinder Head dwarfs everything else on that Truck. They gave me a quote and I'm still thinking about it .... There was also an EB4 there ......... auughhhh


Help ! Help ! I'm an RC addict ............... augh....


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Luckily for me it wasn't...and now I've had 13 hours straight of sleep...

I've had more small problem with thoose rear shock screws aswell, but never has one broken by itselfe...

The underside of my chassie is not really pretty now, quite scratched...

I've got to pu my car together or I will start to experience abstinence.....

Im thinking of getting a 1/10 elec buggy for DT-10 down-time running and winter in-doors running...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

4

:eek:

:D

[pistole]

well , I have got the Throttle Return Spring fashioned already and it works great ..... I think all Nitro cars ought to have one ( or at least an electronic fail-safe ) but there certainly is no substitute for a good old spring and linkage to pull the throttle close.


And , I have bought the Nicd cells ( 12 pieces - Sanyo 700 mAh ) and the result in the receiver is startling , the steering is crisper and no longer is there that 'noisy' chirping from the steering-servo when at rest. I guess the sheer output of those Nicd cells far outstrip the normal alkaline ones. As for the transmitter , they are still charging ........


You're thinking of getting an electric car ? On/Off road ?

Best regards and safe runnings.

[pistole]

FOUR WHOLE PAGES !!!!!!!!


Great !

Bye .

[DCLXVI]

Thinking of getting an electric off-road...
http://www.kyosho.com/cars/kyod93.html
But I will have to see...dedpends on what my friend gets...

I'm soon of to the "local" track...and try the first time on track...


/DCLXVI

[pistole]

is nice .. I wonder what is the performance difference between the electric and Nitro.

Anyhow , good luck at the track.

Bye and safe runnings.

[R/C_Newbie19]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Just finnished cleaning the diff...man I like this SO much!!! I have found out that no part in the car is smaller than one centimeter exept for screws and such...
I have applied a different grease in my diff than was in there stock, I will probably get less diff action and less "one wheel drive" - you know when one tire hasn't got any traction and that one is the one doing all the spinning :)
More on this later...
Tomorrow I'm going to my LHS to get some 20-30w shock oil...mabey I'll get better handling in rough terrain than my current 40w oil...mabey all the parts I ordered has arrived as well :D



Visst...

För att få i en .21 motor måste du troligtvis modifiera chassitet en aning...
Jag är ingen expert men jag tror inte att .21 motorn har samma storlek på fästena som .15 har som sitter i bilen...

Um..har jag pratat med dig förut? Folk har ju inte alltid samma namn på olika tjänster...

Message to everyone that couldn't understand a word of that...I was just explaining and elaborating in swedish what I stated in my previous post...

/DCLXVI Yes, you've talked to me on msn messenger and here in your eh ehat is it now 3 or 4 side forum.

[DCLXVI]

Ok newbie19... sorry :)

Anyways..was at the track today...ran about 30 secs then my right rear rim hub boke...that poor thing has been through a lot I can tell from all the cracks that were already there before...
Just sad that I had to go 40+ km just ro run for 30 secs...

Oh yeha, I will be looking at new dampers to, probably some aluminium ones, how did your search go, pistole?

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

you mean your wheel ( ie the RIM ) broke ? Or the hub-carrier (where the bushings/bearings go) ?

My wheel has a crack from that CURB but is holding up.

I am still chasing the store for those shocks , will get them soon.

Sorry to hear about your 'wasted' trip to the track. Better luck the next time...

Bye and safe runnings.



AND , R/C Newbie........ got your car yet ?

[R/C_Newbie19]

Yea, i have a old touring with an os-max .21 engine i've never ran
it but i think it it should work (at least the engine and radio works). The guyh who sold it said it goes abuot 60 mph without any tansmission(!) I think i shall buy this body:

[DCLXVI]

I mean the rim broke right in the center...luckily for me I had already ordered new rear rims. I also purchased new shocks, Kyosho aluminium...not sure that they fit but they better, costed about US $45 for the four of them...I'll check and see if they fit and I'll tell you the part number ok?
I had also orderd the shock mounts and they had arrived but in the bag crearly marked with "Shock Mounts" was the steering assy/servo saver...what a shame!!!

Well it's almost time for winter storage as it is getting colder and I don't think that all the plastic parts will like to be bashed in the cold...

I have two uppgrades/check-if-available/possible planned...
Metal spur gear and a two speed gear box...

I will also order a new body as I think that the stadium type of bodies are not very pretty...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

New rims , oh well ................... I had a close look at the rims of the DT when I was putting on the new rear tyres , and I think that maybe , I could get a machine-shop to machine a set out of aluminium !! The only problem may be the little recessed portions on the rim-centre which engages the drive shaft pin. I have no idea how they are going to machine that ..

That aluminium rim would look fantastic , yeah ? That's project No. 1.


Those shocks that you ordered ...... Kyosho ones ? Please let me know how and whether they fit ..... I am dying for new shocks.

The stock ones are useless , I was jumping the DT yesterday and she landed heavily on the front suspension - the shocks promptly bottomed out and sent the car tumbling end over end ........ resulting in :- (a) a broken rear body mounting peg and (b) the same shock tower screw breaking , again ! So these shocks are project No. 2.

As for a two-speed box , I am made to understand from the store that this is possible .... will check for you. Sounds interesting !

Metal spur gear ? This would be easy , just remove the original and send it to a machine shop that can turn gears - thats a 10 minute job for them ......

Great stuff .................. any how , I am now running my DT gently , what with the rear right shock being held by rubber-bands !!!


Dear R/C Newbie ...............

Why don't you post a pic of that road car of yours .... should look great ...


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Pistole : You don't need to change the entire shock to improve the performance, just change the shock oil, use 30 - 40w in them, my stock shocks are hard as stone with 40w oil...
The shocks I bought is somewhat shorter than the stock ones but they look quite nice...will get picture by end of week...

Must check to see if the spur gear is of a simple type or if it is complicated enough to warrant some caution... ;)

Rubber bands? Do like everyone else...use zip ties... ;)
There is also the possibility to use a piece of silicone (fuel) pipe and put another screw (like the one from the body mount) on there...just don't try put the shock on a balljoint, I snapped my top shock hole this way (that is why I bought new shocks...)...

Alu rims would look SO nice!!! You have to post the price you had to pay for that!!!

Hopefully I will get my truck up and running in time for the weekend and I have the time to bash it some more!!! :D


/DCLXVI

[pistole]

well , I am going from my office to the Local Hobby Store to see if they have any goodies for me ..........

Will report later on goodies-status !

Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

BTW, pistole, how old are you?

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

I have a confession to make ....... I bought a new TTR EK4 yesterday at the Store ....

She looked so nice , I just could not help myself..........

Will be posting pics of the truck as soon as possible!


My DT is going really strong - I got a new screw for the shock mount and toed-in the front wheels slightly - so she's tracking true now.

Still no new shocks yet - will be trying your suggestion to change the shock oil to a heavier weight...... will report on progress.

By the way , I am 30 years old ( a geriatric , by the standards of this forum ! ).


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

I have a confession to make ....... I bought a new TTR EK4 yesterday at the Store ....
Cool, does it run good yet?

My DT is going really strong - I got a new screw for the shock mount and toed-in the front wheels slightly - so she's tracking true now.
I'm going to do a real overhaul of my wheel settings...

Still no new shocks yet - will be trying your suggestion to change the shock oil to a heavier weight...... will report on progress.
There will be a major difference, I promise

By the way , I am 30 years old ( a geriatric , by the standards of this forum ! ).
I'm 24 so I'm not that far away...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

hey , when I was 24 ( a long long time ago ) , I was still totally clueless ...... come to think of it ....... I am still clueless.


Anyhow , I am going to clean my DT today and run her again ... I am still messing with the mixture setting to get an optimum level of performance WITH a steady idle.

I leaned it out too much yesterday evening .... so she spluttered on mid-acceleration .......... I richened it mighty quick then .....

That EK4 .... she's still at the store ... they're fitting the radio and et cetera ..... so they promised to call me ........... Will report when the truck lands on me !

Thanks and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

So will you concentrate on your EK-4 or are you going to run both cars?


/DCLXVI

[carerra]

have you read the ek4 review in the articles section of www.rcnitro.com ??? also make sure you run it in properly, not sure if the newer version has it but one of them has a ringed piston meaning an extensive breaking in - something like 7-10 tanks.......also keep an eye on the diffs as they are prone to bust. What are you gonna use to start it?? do you have one of those electric 12v aero motor starters??? or have you a real torquey power drill????? try to get some sound clips too....i hear they sound like absolute beasts!!!

[pistole]

well I took my DT to the Park yesterday evening and ran her hard over undulating cut-grass surface facing a very steep ( at least 30-40 % incline ) verge.

The DT climbs really strong and had a hell of a time ( just about 20 mins of running had me on a high already ) . When the car was runnning like hell , jumping and rolling (!) ... there was a collection of spectators too..... I guess not many have seen the strength of a Nitro off road car ...... most people having been exposed to those electric-whiners only.


Well , errr , damage report :-

(a) broke both the rear body mount pins, and
(b) bent that rear shock mount AGAIN.

Nothing serious , the DT was fabulous.


Anyhow , DCL , I am certainly going to continue to run my DT as long as possible , even when the EK4 comes ..... that EK's fuel consumption will run me into the poor-house .... so the DTs going to be my main squeeze for a long time to come.


Just a great car ....... I could not ask for more ! .... except maybe a OS 0.15 engine .................... aughhhhhhh


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

yup , I have seen that review on rcnitro.com of the EK4 in action. I even downloaded the video ( the one about "EK4 ABUSE" ) ... just watching it made my toes cringe ...... who on earth would do that to his own investment .......

Anyway , about the diffs , yup I know about the problems ... so i am going to properly shim the drive crown gear to cure the mesh problem ( if any ).

But , I really baby my cars so I am not unduly worried about serious breakage. I am going to run in that new Pro 0.70 engine properly.... wish me luck !

Yes , I am going to try to start it with a cordless drill ... not sure if my puny drill has enough torque ... will have to see later.

Progress reports later.

Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Yes , I am going to try to start it with a cordless drill ... not sure if my puny drill has enough torque ... will have to see later.

If your drill can't handle the EK-4 buy a starter box, you could probably use that one to both the cars...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

that starter-box would probably be a good idea ..... its just that I am trying my best to reduce to an absolute minimum the amount of stuff I have to tote around just to run the car.

Like the DT ........ its great with that pull-start . So very simple , all I need to carry is the glow-starter thingy , the Transmitter , the Car and the fuel bottle..... and I am running like crazy already.

With that EK4 , there's the extra drill to bring along. If I use a starter box , then an extra 12v battery (!). Oh , and a GREAT BIG BOTTLE OF FUEL too !!

I'm like bent over already from sitting at my desk all day ... I can't bear it anymore..........................


I am gonna run my DT again later ( but the park - its near my office ) is wet from the rain , so I'm thinking whether its worth going there or not .............


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I forgot to mention ........... I dug out my cordless drill yesterday and charged the battery pack BUT after charging , the drill does not seem to have any real power.

I think that the Nicd in the batt pack are past their best and need to be replaced.

I opened up the battery pack and its made up of six medium Nicd cells soldered together ( thus 7.2 volts ) . It is feasible to buy new cells , solder them and then reinstall them into the batt. case or is it just easier to buy a new batt/new drill ?

Your views would be appreciated.

Thanks and safe runnings.

[carerra]

probably best to get a new drill....in england you can pick up a pretty decent one for about £20....dunno if a starter box would work, as i imagine it'd be rather hard to fit the trucks flywheel to the box.....best to use the drill/12v aero starter method.

i took off the pull start on my car and fitted the drill start system avaliable from schumacher. works a treat - even gave me more power due to less crankshaft drag...

[DCLXVI]

Weee...broke 100 posts and fith page!!! nice one carrera... :D

I don't think it will be that har using the starter box since there is one made by TTR that says it will fit "all" cars...

Hope I will have time to put my car together for the weekend...then it's going to be some serious bashing...!

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

Originally posted by DCLXVI

Hope I will have time to put my car together for the weekend...then it's going to be some serious bashing...!

/DCLXVI

me too....hopefully getting my new cvec tuned pipe tomorrow, along with a new stronger steering servo, and airbrush and some paints for my new bodyshell.....damn this hobby...bit like crack - very expensive yet highly addictive:D

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by carerra
me too....hopefully getting my new cvec tuned pipe tomorrow, along with a new stronger steering servo, and airbrush and some paints for my new bodyshell.....damn this hobby...bit like crack - very expensive yet highly addictive:D

No kidding, I spent 1000 SEK monday and then 700 SEK today, just a charger alu shocks and some spare parts...

Now I seriosly thinking of getting a elec car from kyosho....

...just as a spare....

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

worked out i've spent about £750/10800sek/4450myr on my car so i can't really afford to just go out and get another...plus my car is so good at lots of different roles with just ride height/tire/spring changes....tempted by electric due to ability to run indoors and during late evenings...etc put off by costs of getting batteries, chargers, esc, motor etc....and knowing me i'd end up buying the best i could....i.e £140 on an esc...owch!!! i think i'll just stick to nitro...less expensive....piston and sleeve is way cheaper than new battery packs, comm lathes and motors.

[pistole]

about the cost of running NITRO cars .......... I have noticed a couple of things ( since I started from almost zero here ) :-

(a) the car / radio itself is not expensive if you don't always
insist on getting the 'best' out there ,

(b) running the car is also cheap ( if you can get a reasonable
fuel supplier ) ,

(c) BUT if you habit is to really trash the car , then the bills will
mount up real quick because PARTS are expensive and
sometimes difficult to get ( thus making them expensive
anyway ).


I used to mess with electric cars way back. Compared to Nitro, I think there is a really big difference in performance/satisfaction ,
especially for OFF ROAD cars ( the electric ones just can't keep up and their run-times are poor to say the least ).

For Nitro , just fill the tank and you're running again.

Anyway , I am rambling already.

Took my DT out to the PARK yesterday , the grass was a little wet so the car spun alot but it WAS GREAT FUN. You should have seen that DT climb that incline , engine screaming away and then rocketing down to a 3-4 feet jump off .....

Great fun.

Bye and safe runnings.

( Oh and FIVE whole pages ! )

[DCLXVI]

AHHHHHhhh!!!! I've lost one of the pins that transfer power from the drive shaft to the wheels....NOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

I must get a replacement....!

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

when I read your post , I laughed out loud !

I have forgotten how many times I have ALMOST lost those little circlips holding the control arm pins and that drive hub pin !

Just a suggestion , try using a piece from a thick paper clip - it will transfer power just the same.

I am laughing again .............. so sorry.

Thanks and safe(r) runnings.

[pistole]

just got back from the Park. Had great fun running the DT - she was going real strong when the drivetrain sound changed slightly.

I stopped and inspected it , found that the main-spur-gear ( the one that engages the clutch bellhousing ) had some of its teeth flattened. Checked the engine mount screws , they were all tight.

I guess the plastic isn't really up to the job. Will be sending it off to the gear shop to have a set of STEEL ones cut.

Anyhow , it was fun ..............

Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

I need that steel spur too....mine has several chipped teeth no ones broken yet...

btw, pistole, have you inspected the diff yet...some of the cogs on my main gear was a bit "smeared"...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

no , I have not opened up the Differential yet ..... I am trying NOT to because if I have to , it probably means that there is some problem with it ( which till now , its been problem free ).


Anyway , I really like my DT .... she's small but with a BIG heart. A real try-it-on type.

Hope you can get your DT together for the weekend.....

Thanks and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Yeah, thanks for the tip btw...I will try that...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

apart in order to extract the main spur gear , she was well and truly flattened.

So that will need a trip to the Store.

I had a look into the g/box ( suprising to note that the g/box has no bottom - the bottom is the chassis plate itself ) and found that the gears were all fine and meshing smoothly. No worries there.

Glad to note that the g/box and the Spur gear assembly is carried on bearings throughout. That is assuring to note ............


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Had another "great" run today... total run time ~1 minute...then the servo saver "broke", if you ever have dissmantled your steering, there is a piece of plastic (alloy) that looks like a C from above and acts like a protection against bumps...that one came loose today, to bad I didn't see the truck at the probable time of failure...but she was running GREAT!!!...

I'm getting more and more confident that it would be possible to built an entire truck with nothing more than one motor/engine, two servos, four tires and a big bunch of Zip-Ties since almost all damage I've sustained on my truck has been (temperarily) repairable with the use of Zip-Ties...

Also, mabe a misstake the other day. Had gotten new rims as one of my old ones had cracked in the center and I decided to glue the old (original) tires on to them as winter is fast approatching (sp?) over here and the ground is getting harder I thought that my new ProLine Tracta-Gator tires would tear to fast... Problem is that it's still autumm and all the leaves are falling to the ground and the rain is falling all the time. This means that the ground is, in the average bashing places, coverd in damp to out-right wet leaves that has ZERO traction for the normal "blue-groove" Stadium Tuck kind of tires...Now I must order new rims and new foam inserts and glue the ProLine tires to theese rims...

Anyway, I bought 12 R6 (AA) 2000 mAH yesterday and a good universal charger from graupner thursday I'm currently charging the eight radio batteries and I will wait with the reciver/servo batteries until the alkaline/DuraCell ones I am running with are finito...

Tomorrow I will bash some more and (hopefully) record this to my mothers Digital Videorecorder...and post the edits on the net... :D

/DCLXVI

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

sorry to hear about your servo saver problem. I know that it is difficult to dismantle ( the whole upper tray must be removed?).


I was able to replace the main spur gear yesterday , the car has been tested and is going well.


I am waiting eagerly for that VIDEO !


Thanks and safe runnings.

[pistole]

that main spur gear and ended up cartwheeling the car end over end ( spectacular crash ! ) ...... resulting in a broken shock tower mounting.

I am going to make a new one out of a piece of aluminium.


Aughhhhh ...... down time.


Bye and safe runnings.

[carerra]

you guys ever though of getting a CVEC tuned pipe for your cars?? these things ROCK, have a piston and spring inside which regulates exhaust flow....they also have an adjustable pin which can be set between max fuel economy or all out performance....i have mine set more towards economy (thirsty .21 engine) yet it still span the rear wheels on my car for like 35foot up my asphalt drive!!!! crazy low end power

go on do the sensible thing and get a cvec:D :D

[DCLXVI]

Got the movie...have to compress it first...2.5 gig 11 minutes...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Hmmm...VCD format 120 Mb in ~13 minutes anyone? Smaller?

Can't get my ftp to work...will try as har as I can...then I have to learn Adobe Premier...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
Had another "great" run today... total run time ~1 minute...then the servo saver "broke", if you ever have dissmantled your steering, there is a piece of plastic (alloy) that looks like a C from above and acts like a protection against bumps...that one came loose today, to bad I didn't see the truck at the probable time of failure...but she was running GREAT!!!...

I'm getting more and more confident that it would be possible to built an entire truck with nothing more than one motor/engine, two servos, four tires and a big bunch of Zip-Ties since almost all damage I've sustained on my truck has been (temperarily) repairable with the use of Zip-Ties...

Also, mabe a misstake the other day. Had gotten new rims as one of my old ones had cracked in the center and I decided to glue the old (original) tires on to them as winter is fast approatching (sp?) over here and the ground is getting harder I thought that my new ProLine Tracta-Gator tires would tear to fast... Problem is that it's still autumm and all the leaves are falling to the ground and the rain is falling all the time. This means that the ground is, in the average bashing places, coverd in damp to out-right wet leaves that has ZERO traction for the normal "blue-groove" Stadium Tuck kind of tires...Now I must order new rims and new foam inserts and glue the ProLine tires to theese rims...

Anyway, I bought 12 R6 (AA) 2000 mAH yesterday and a good universal charger from graupner thursday I'm currently charging the eight radio batteries and I will wait with the reciver/servo batteries until the alkaline/DuraCell ones I am running with are finito...

Tomorrow I will bash some more and (hopefully) record this to my mothers Digital Videorecorder...and post the edits on the net... :D

/DCLXVI

/DCLXVI

Memo to selfe...do not post while tired/upset...that makes long rambeling posts that no one wants to read!!!

:P

Got the FTP up, now I just have to make a HomePage and supply the link...the file is still over 100 mb mind you (I have a 10Mbit/s connection)


/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

http://www.nitro-rc.has.it/

Totally super crappy page...I will make it better...
Just so you won't have to see the ugliness of the page you can go here: ftp://nitro:rc@dclxvi.no-ip.info:2121/ with a FTP client (I can't get it to work with IE)

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

have you got a USA-1 ??? read the review on http://www.rccentral.com/article.asp?ATCL_ID=5 ...gotta say it's not pretty reading....from what i can tell they seem to suggest it's...well.....crap.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by carerra
have you got a USA-1 ??? read the review on http://www.rccentral.com/article.asp?ATCL_ID=5 ...gotta say it's not pretty reading....from what i can tell they seem to suggest it's...well.....crap.

The USA-1 is not mine...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

did you happen to break your rear-shock-mount ( the aluminium thingy that look like a butterfly shot with buck-shot ) before?

Did you just bye a new one or did you fabricate one ?

I have CONCLUDED that if you want to go all out with any Nitro car - you MUST HAVE A ROLL CAGE installed , if not , you're gonna be breaking things ALL THE TIME.


Auuuugghhhhhhhhh .....................

Best regards and safe runnings.

[nitrorich]

I'm looking at getting a DT-10 with a buddy. We currently race nitro boats. How fast does this thing go stock with 15% nitro?

Thanks

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole
did you happen to break your rear-shock-mount ( the aluminium thingy that look like a butterfly shot with buck-shot ) before?

First thing I broke...


Did you just bye a new one or did you fabricate one ?


Bought a new one...started to fabricate one in 4mm duraluminium


I have CONCLUDED that if you want to go all out with any Nitro car - you MUST HAVE A ROLL CAGE installed , if not , you're gonna be breaking things ALL THE TIME.


Body usualy helps...I figured out a work around for the pins that are snapping all the time...more on this later...


Auuuugghhhhhhhhh .....................


Agree...

Best regards and safe runnings.

The same to you...

Originally posted by carerra
have you got a USA-1 ??? read the review on http://www.rccentral.com/article.asp?ATCL_ID=5 ...gotta say it's not pretty reading....from what i can tell they seem to suggest it's...well.....crap.

Well, read the review and saw that it was the older 1/10 Electric USA-1, my cousin (thats the one on my page) has the 1/8 Nitro one, that one is based on the Inferno 5, so it sould have adequat quality...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Six pages :D

Originally posted by nitrorich
I'm looking at getting a DT-10 with a buddy. We currently race nitro boats. How fast does this thing go stock with 15% nitro?

Thanks

Well I would think about 20-30 mph witch is about enough...

Well everyone...have you tried my ftp?

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

I have alot of sympathy for all the stuff that we are breaking on our DTs................. but its really great fun !

I am still looking at the shock mount and trying to figure out whether to make or to buy ...... I run the DT naked so I guess thats causing the damage to those parts ............ The body posts are long gone by now ...............

The only one left is the one in front and thats already wobbling..

Anyway , I have not tried your SITE yet ............ will do so now.

How are those Kyosho aluminium shocks of yours ? Any good ? The original plastic ones are really not up to the job ! I guess some of my crashing ( I am being very optimistic here ) was caused in part by the shocks bottoming out too soon and causing the chassis to be overwhelmed by the body movement.

That is my 5 cents worth anyway........

Best regards and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I think that DCL's estimate of 20-30 mph for the DT is conservative..... she can really go quick if you have her tuned properly ( engine , suspension and steering ).

But with any off-road car ( especially a stadium truck ) , top speed is really just a gloss , the really important factors is handling and stability during jumps/turns.

If speed is what you're interested in , might I suggest one of those 1/8 ( 0.21 engine ) off road killer buggies ...... they really can fly , but a DT is a good starting platform...... something to learn on and get good at Nitro. I mean , if you can handle a 2wd Nitro on dirt/wet asphalt , those 4wd's are a piece of cake.......

Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

If speed is what you're interested in , might I suggest one of those 1/8 ( 0.21 engine ) off road killer buggies ...... they really can fly ...

There is something called cost-effectivness also...

The DT-10 is great bang for the buck...

/DCLXVI

[R/C_Newbie19]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
http://www.nitro-rc.has.it/

Totally super crappy page...I will make it better...
Just so you won't have to see the ugliness of the page you can go here: ftp://nitro:rc@dclxvi.no-ip.info:2121/ with a FTP client (I can't get it to work with IE)

/DCLXVI

I'm just downloading your 117 mb movie, with IE! so i think its working. shall be nice 2 c your dt-10 in action

[nitrorich]

Thanks for the guesstimate!

there is a reason behind this fairly dumb question of speed.

and try not to laugh too loud...it takes all types to make this world go 'round.

amoungst other RC stuff, I have an electric car - pretty well modified. For those in the know, I have taken a 4wd Ta02 car and exchanged the front end with a 2wd , so I ended up with a twin motor 4wd electric. I also run it with 14 cells and 'green machine' stock motors. As you can guess It pretty well flies. It doesnt have brakes 'cos I'm running it with a Robbe 90A speed controller to handle all those cells.

Anyway, enough of that, I use it to exercise my dog, a lively blue heeler, which probably does ~ 45KPH (28MPH) we're metric here in downunder. So........since batteries run down fairly fast etc so looking at getting the DT-10. And my mate wants to get a nitro truck , so I'll most likely end up 'friendly' racing

whew, I'll just go and get one I think!!!!

[the racer]

Does anyone have a starter box on his DT10?
I bought one but now my engine flywheel's apex does not meet the starter box's flywheel apex. Anyone who can give some advice how I can use the starter box on my DT10?

Chris

[pistole]

is true for the DT , she'll fly on a budget ..... and cheap (relatively) to keep running.


As for you , NITRORICH ........... trust me , the DT is gonna strip your electric. But I think that maybe you just ought to compare on-road electric with on-road nitro. Not compare off road with on road cars , their parameters of operation are different.

If you've seen a Serpent Veteq in action , you'll be dumping that electric mighty fast.


THE RACER.
____________

The reason the starter box can meet your flywheel is because the engine mount is the tall version to accomodate the pull-start. Just change the mount to the shorter version and the flywheel will poke out of the cut-out on the chassis.

Thanks and safe runnings.

[the racer]

Pistole,

do you know the part number for this shorter mount?
Do I also remove the pull start from the engine or can I leave this on? If I remove it, is there a cover that goes onto the engine (do you have part number of this?)

Chris

[nitrorich]

Well yeeeeessss I shouldnt compare on & off road cars and we should stick to the Dt-10, but I've dug myself a hole so i've got to try and get out....

When i say that it was modified....it was pro-line tyres on truck rims with jacked up suspension and high mount body posts...so for all practical purposes, it is an off road car. Anyway, with those big tyres and all that weight it handled very badly on road.

There I said it.

so when i get my Dt-10 should i throw away the rubber tuned pipe for a metal one. I believe some of you guys have melted the stock one??

[pistole]

my local hobby store has them ( for those who want to replace the stock engine to one of the hotter ones ) .... but I do not have the part number. Will check for you.

Yes you have to replace the backplate to the one without the oneway bearing , etc ............ also another part to buy.

Why don't you just stick to the pull start ? Its great to use and very convenient , no need to tote around all that dead-weight...


And ..... Nitro Rich ..................
___________________________


Well , I understand you now. If you're worried that the DT will lose out to your friends Monster Truck vis a vis speed , trust me , it won't (unless your friend's truck is a TTR EK4 ! ).

The DT will serve you fine. Just jump in ......... like I did !


About that MELTING TUNED PIPE .............. I've heard about this on the net , but I have not actually had any problems with it happening. Honestly speaking , if your engine is running hot enough to melt stuff off it , then you have other more important problems to attend to .......... least of all your tuned pipe........


Bye and safe runnings.


HEY DCL ..............
_____________________


My DT is down , I am still thinking about that rear shock mount , whether to make or to buy..................

I miss running her ................................


Aauuugh.

Bye and safe(r) runnings !

[DCLXVI]

Ohhhh...new ppl in the thread.
I'm at work so I'll keep short...

I have a smaller version of the movie on the way, problem is that I can't compress it to much or the car won't be visable...I'll have to cut the "unnessecary" pices out...
I have added music though, but that version is not online...

There is a Hobby Fair here in Stockholm this weekend, I will go there...!

Pistole : Did the shock tower break by the square hole that holds the body posts (mine did)? If you run without the body then it would be advisable to make a new one out of 3-5 mm duraluminium and skip the mounting holes...
Are your steering slow and unresponsive? I think that there is a small problem with the steering on my car... I changed to a Hitec 545 servo (5 kg, hi-torque) but it still won't center properly...I will look at a way to change the way the steering works...completly...

Nitrorich:
If you want a reliable cross between off- and on-road then buy a DT-10, change shock oil to 40w and lower suspention...then it will perform good on-road and quite good on (flat) off-road...

/DCLXVI

[carerra]

i just got a Hitec 525mg(high spd version of 545) for my car....it's wouldn't work at all...kept going mental, also glitching loads.....sent it back to where i bought it and got a futaba s9402(i think) - has 8kg/0.1s

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by DCLXVI
[...]I have a smaller version of the movie on the way, problem is that I can't compress it to much or the car won't be visable...I'll have to cut the "unnessecary" pices out...
I have added music though, but that version is not online...
[...]

40 megs...online...music...not that bad quality...will edit the movie some soon...

/DCLXVI

OMG!!! I'm quoting myselfe now? What is next?!? Will DCLXVI start to talk about himselfe in third person? Ahhh...I just did it!!!
Noooo!!!!!

:D

[pistole]

you are spot-on about that aluminium shock mount , it broke right at the square hole meant to hold the body-pin ..........

I am not an engineer but I do think that it could have been designed better than that (!). I mean , to have a large gaping hole in the metal right at a stress point .............. oh well.

I am trying to find the aluminium plate to make the thing but its not easy getting just a small piece , I am thinking of stealing a road sign to get the metal .......................... LOL ! If I end up in Jail , do visit .................

As for the steering servo , mine is the standard HITEC 303. And yes , the steering DOES NOT CENTER properly when turning from lock to lock , it is really strange and I have looked ( and dismantled the front end last night ) at it carefully and concluded that it is not the fault of the servo , but something to do with the looseness of the servo-saver mechanism , which results in loss of movement ......... but only when turning one side ( cannot remember which side now ).

I have tried to insert a washer ( ahem ... shim ) into the servo-saver to tighten the assembly , but the damn thing does not have any space left over for the washer.

Good luck at the HOBBY FAIR in Stockholm .............. look out for PARTS !

LOL !!

Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I can confirm that if you talk about yourself from a 3rd person perspective all the time ......... YOU ARE GOING NUTS.

Bye and safe(r) runnings.

He He.

[deadcat]

I bought a DT!
I ran it for the first time yesterday so I'm still breaking it in. 3 tanks so far. At first it didn't ran good at all but now it starting to feel better. Sometimes the engine dies but i guess thats becouse it's not broken in/ properly tuned yet
It was fun!! :D

[pistole]

first thing , I need to know what is it with your handle "DEADCAT"?

Second , welcome to the DT bunch here ( ahem , there are actually only 2 of us , 3 plus you now ) ......... but what we lack in numbers , we make up in quality!

So enjoy , post your questions ( if any ) , and we'll try to ruin your DT for you with our good advice.

Bye and safe runnings.



AND DCL .................
___________________


Sleeping again ????


Bye , safe runnings.

[nitrorich]

I've got to wait until saturday 'til I can get mine:(

can't wait!

I even ran my nitro boat for a few minutes to breathe in some of those lovely toxic nitro fumes, in anticipation of roaring around with the DT-10!! (after the mandatory break-in, of course)

[pistole]

that the more of us have DTs , then the more fun it would be on this thread ........ since we would have lots of interesting stuff to exchange.

My DT is down because of that broken rear shock mount ..... so I am kind of depressed now .............

But , I've just taken delivery of my EK4 .................. so , I am about to take some asphalt home with me !


Bye and safe runnings to all you DT bugs out there !

[pistole]

before I forget , please remember to run her gently , at least for the first 2 tanks of fuel ( remember , 2 1/2 turns of the mixture needle ) .... then slowly pick up the pace and then lean it out progressively to get more power till there is no improvement , then back out about 1/4 turn.

There is really no need to run in an ABC engine slobberingly rich ... it can actually do damage and is a pure waste. As long as you have a healthy plume of smoke when you accelerate or are running at full throttle , you're safe ........... if there is no smoke, please be careful and richen it.


Enjoy you purchase and REMEMBER to tighten all the nuts (especially on the drive cups - those grub screws ).....


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole
[...]
AND DCL .................
___________________


Sleeping again ????


Bye , safe runnings.

No, working...a lot to do...

+1 GMT

/DCLXVI

[deadcat]

I drove it today again for the second time. Now it's broken-in!

Drove on a soccer field and hit a gole with the car. It bounced on the net end flew 1 meter up in the air but my baby made it totaly unharmed, thank god! :)

I think the spark plug needs cleaning because the engine stoped and I had to blow it clean before it started again. It didn't run as good as before...

DCLXVI: Do you know any race tracks around the Stockholm area?

pistole: My handle? Lack of imagination I guess :)

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by deadcat
I drove it today again for the second time. Now it's broken-in!

Drove on a soccer field and hit a gole with the car. It bounced on the net end flew 1 meter up in the air but my baby made it totaly unharmed, thank god! :)

I think the spark plug needs cleaning because the engine stoped and I had to blow it clean before it started again. It didn't run as good as before...

DCLXVI: Do you know any race tracks around the Stockholm area?

pistole: My handle? Lack of imagination I guess :)

Race tracks...not really, but a two tracks...one in Gustavsberg and one in Skarpnäck (IIRC)...the one in Gustavsberg is free but quite small, the one in Skarpnäck I havn't been to but I think that they are rebuilding it...
I think that there might be one in Vällingby or around there somewhere...
BTW are you going to the Fair this weekend? it's at Frescati/Universitetet, friday to sunday...mabey we could meet and exchange some experience?
BTW no.2 Where in Stockholm are you from?

/DCLXVI

BTW no. 3 (a lot of theese right now ;) ) New homepage design... www.nitro-rc.has.it

[pistole]

you can't 'clean' your GLOWPLUG like you would a SPARKPLUG.


If you run your car right , there is no real need to even remove the plug ..... if you find that you have to always take the plug out in order to blow it clean of fuel because the engine cannot start ......... something else is wrong , like the mixture.

If after a crash , your DT does not go so good , be careful , do inspect all moving parts for broken/missing/damaged bits before taking it for a run again.

You'll end up with a long-lasting car that way ..... AND don't forget the throttle return spring ( or electronic FAILSAFE ).


By the way , my EK4 is running great ........ the sound from the pipe is FANTASTIC.

The DT is still down ( no shock tower mount yet ) ! Augh....



Best regards and safe runnings..

[DCLXVI]

I think I have the "failsafe" solution for the breaking body pins...

Cut the pins (or use already broken ones) at about the second (at least) hole from the bottom and make the edges a bit less rough...
Take about 2-3 cm of fuel/silicone tubing and put both the top part and bottom part into the tube, put a zip-tie around the tube coverd part of the pins and ighten really hard - as hard as possible...
Install...

Bonus...all you need to do to start/refuel/quick maintainance is to pop the front body clip off and then you can flip the entire body like a hood... :D

I havn't run the car with this config yet but I will try tomorrow...
The body looks aligned btw...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

that is a great idea ! Only that at the rear , I am left with only one body pin ....... one complete unit went missing during a crash ( flip , roll - roll & cartwheel ) !


I have been thinking about a flip top for the body too , this would make starting , fueling and carb-adjustment much easier than fiddling around with those mini-body-pin-circlips.


Auuuugghhhh ..............still no rear shock tower yet. I am going nuts already ...........


Thanks and safe runnings.




YO' DEADCAT ! ............... still alive ? Lets hear from ya ......

[pistole]

yea ............... clap clap , pat on back .......

LOL.

Bye and safe runnings.

[nitrorich]

Well I managed to get my DT-10 last night. (I just couldnt wait until saturday and since we have late night trading I cracked open the piggy bank-more like pleaded with the missus)

anyway, I havent run it yet (I havent even put in the servos), just got some after run in oil today to use on the engine - always a good idea on a new engine.

I noticed that the body clips look pretty crappy, I think I'll replace these with good 'uns. Since the front bearings are std 1105's (I have heaps of spares from my electric cars) these are going straight in.

the rear hub carrier bearings I'll have to order in.

I'll let you know how the first runs went next week.

[pistole]

are in order for our newest member of this exalted club .... so now , if I am able to count properly , there are FOUR of us on this planet.


Anyway , take care with that DT and she'll serve you fine. Remember to locktite (or just tighten properly) the drive-cup grub screws ........ they loosen at will and you'll lose drive and think that you g/box is shot..... when it actually isn't.


Good luck and safe runnings.




----------------


Hellllooooooo , DEADCAT ................... DEADCAT ........... c'mere DEADCAT ................ c'mere DEADCAT..............

Yo , come on , lets hear from ya' ............

[deadcat]

Hi!

Pistole: No cleaning of the glowplug then. Maybe the mix is to ritch?

The car really needs cleaning. I will clean it and run it again on saturday. I will look for loose screws too.

My front wheels look like this \-/. Shouldn't they look like this /-\. Think they need aligment, the car is not stable!

This weekend I will try to find the right settings on the engine because it dies sometimes.

I'm thinking of getting bearings for the car. Any other recommended updates?
Tell me more about that throttle return spring/failsaif!

[DCLXVI]

Broke the pull-start - AGAIN!!! Third time now, but this time the cord snapped at the "handle" the previous times it has been oulled out at the base...

I put to much toe-in on the car, quite funny...at a certain speed the whole front started to wobble alot...but below that speed the car had superior handling...

Deadcat: Where are you running your car?

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

great to hear from you.


I take great care with that pull start cord. I wipe the cord clean very often ... it tends to get oily ( I am not sure whether the oiliness is caused by a leaking seal on the engine backplate resulting in fuel + oil getting into the pull start assembly OR just from oil from everywhere else ........... ).


So far ....... no broken cord yet ( fingers crossed ).


As for the TOE - IN ............... yes , my DT also behaved slightly strange when I increased it ( plus the negative camber ) but overall , I think that the handling had improved save for the Shocks which are causing the chassis problems.

How are the KYOSHO shocks of yours , good ?

My DT is STILL DOWN !!!!!!!!!!!!!! No shock tower yet ...... aaauuuuuuuugggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !! @#*****#$#%#$@#@#@#$#$#@#$#%$#%#$......

As you can tell , I am not pleased .................





DEAR DEADCAT
_______________



Glad to hear that you're still here......................

The front wheels ought to be like this ( looking at the car from the front ) :

/----\

This is known as negative camber ......... it improves roadholding when cornering .......... just rock the car's suspension to simulate a cornering effect and you'll realise why they set the camber that way ......... the load in on the outside wheel whilst the car is rolling away at a tangent from the corner.


As for your question there , I think that you're talking about that diagram of the wheels when looking at the car front the top ?


If so , then the proper set up is (looking from the top) :


REAR
\========/




\------------/

FRONT

This is known as toe-in ........... it improves turn-in and high speed stability ...................


Just experiment ................ thats the fun part !


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I set up a small spring between ( my now non-existant ) rear shock tower and the throttle servo arm ........ the spring is adjustable vide the use of a small ZIP TIE ( !!!! DCLXVI !!!! ) tied to the shock tower at one end ( one of the unused holes ) and the other end to the spring ........... the spring then actuates a paper clip which engages the servo arm ........... so that when there is no power to the servo ............. the spring will pull the arm down to a throttle zero position.


It will save your car in case of a loss of power ( like a battery pack flying loose and/or connection broken ) BUT not when there is like a form of interference ( someone else on the same channel) or when the TRANSMITTER suddenly shuts down. But experience shows that all such problems usually is CAR-BASED and not caused by the transmitter.


Do remember to bag your receiver / battery and locate the battery securely............. I once had the batt-pack fly loose but luckily the pack hung on by the power cord ! NOT A PRETTY SIGHT AND VERY DANGEROUS ......... CAN YOU IMAGINE THE DAMAGE IF YOU WERE GOING FULL THROTTLE BEFORE THE LOSS OF POWER TO THE SERVOS.


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Hey, pistole...have you noticed that the responce time for the throttle increases when you have the TRS?

I really want a redisign of the steering assebly, I think that that is the only thnig on my car that is not designed as 100% it's about 70%, it works quite good but not that good as the rest of the car...

I was at a gravel pit (where the make gravel and sand), quarry? today and made about 20 minutes of film, 15 mins I would guess is watchable and about 5-10 is quite interresting...I promise that the next movie I will put on-line will be more interessting...

The car seemd almost to flow over all the bumps...It was like a constan "rythm section" so damn nice to see that the suspension really soaks up the worst roughness. The car was mostly one one wheel at a time, but steering was no problem at all... ahhhhh....nice....

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

the crispness of the throttle has certainly been dampened SLIGHTLY .......... more load on the throttle servo ........ but I really don't think that it is significant ....... or significant enough to justify taking off the spring.


I went to the store today and they temporarily gave me a rear shock tower ( plastic ) from a TTR SSR road/rally car to use on my DT. I am trying to figure out now whether it is compatible.


As for the steering ............... yes , I admit .......... the DT's steering assembly is a tad above hopeless ......... way TOO much play. I can , about , turn the wheels 10% left or right WITHOUT the steering servo moving at all ( the servo saver does not kick in ).

Like I posted earlier , I think that the fault lies in the servo saver assembly and the lack of a ball-pivot on the steering servo link arm ( DCL .......... is your's like this too ? ).


Anyway , wish me luck with the new shock tower.


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I 've mounted the new shock tower , after alot of trying work since the upper arm and shock mounts are 'slightly' different.


It works though , I tested the car just now .............. but the roads are WET from the rain , so she's spinning away.


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Broke my second servo saver C today...but it sure was fun...
I was at a Driving Ranch (golf anyone?) that seems desserted for the winter, the grass was cut (about 2-4 cm) and there was a great deal of frost in the grass witch made traction quite scarce...
My cousin filmed the whole experience but I'm still not quite done with all the bits from yesterday so that video will have to wait a few days... 20 minutes of uncomressed video takes about 4 gigs of hard drive space, while I have plenty of hard drives there isn't that much space on them... ;)

Anyway I just complied/edited most of yesterdays experience and put it on my ftp...I'll try a direct link - ftp://nitro:rc@dclxvi.no-ip.info:2121/DT-10/021102.wmv try that...
I really need to say that while this video is about 12 minutes long and about 70 meg in sieze it blows the first one away...big time...sort of...much better anyway... :P

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Oh, and those Kyosho shocks, works pretty good axept that they are abit short. I will se if I can remidy this but uncrewing the "shock ends"...

Part number is W-5098 for the ones that I've got but I see from the instruction pamphlet that W-5099 is listed as (L)arge? where as mine is (M)edium?

You'll need springs for them also...stock is to wide...

/DCLXVI

[nitrorich]

Hi

well everything makes sense now. Nothing beats 'hands on' .

the DT-10 goes great!!!

The TT engine was the easiest nitro engine to tune out of all the engines I've had. (4 x airplane & 2 x boat ). It runs like a dream!

I also nearly lost a battery pack - I handmade a 6 cell NimH pack(600maH) wich lasts forever, so I have installed another zip-tie perpendicular to the one through the chassis. (I am running a failsafe but this is still no good if you suddenly lose power by ditching the power supply!!

also I'm going to replace the rear shock bolts with stainless steel. something else I might try:

the transmission housing has some rear holes in it (the ones closest to the chassis)...so you could mount a couple of pivot balls here and another couple on the shock bolts and put in some stays for extra support?

what say?
Those bolts are just too long to support any huge force.

catch ya

[nitrorich]

Sorry, I can't rest...just a typo.....I meant 'which' not 'wich'??

anyway that was just an excuse.

what I forgot to mention was that it is a shame that the DT-10 doesnt have a slipper clutch on the spur gear. I'm going to think about this one, but I plan to make my own somehow.

It's not gonna be easy because the drive shaft goes right through to a bearing and support.

Oh well we cant expect too much.

[pistole]

sorry to hear about your servo saver problem again.

I ran her in the PARK today ( my DT is faster than my EK4 - but the EK is not tuned up yet ) and had a GREAT TIME..... she was really flying - then she threw a driveshaft off ... which a nice kid found for me in the grass !!!!


Thanks and safe runnings.



Oh , yeah , pity about the lack of the slipper clutch ... but oh well...... we must be patient young grasshopper.......

[DCLXVI]

No slipper cluch? Then what are the thing between the flywheel and the idle(?) gear?

EDIT - I read your post again, why would there be a slipper cluch between the spur gear and the diff?

I'm thinking of taking a break for the winter as the plasics are not up to it in the cold...thats why my servo saver broke... I was running it in frosty grass, quite the sight, had snow all over the electronics and over the rest of the inside... (my electronics are waterproofed)


Anyone wathced the new video yet?

/DCLXVI

[nitrorich]

where did that come from??

I am, though, from Western Australia. So, that quantifies me as a sandgroper.

Close.

Young? Well maybe, I'm still willing to devulge my age.....27.

[nitrorich]

Well, slipper clutches normally go on the spur gear. So that after a jump the spur doesnt get damaged.....wasnt there a post a while back about the need for a steel one?:)

Anyway, it is not hugely neccesary, but nice for peace of mind - just look at the Losi's, RC10GT's, HPI's etc....

[pistole]

LOL !

Well I am gonna be 30 is a couple of weeks time..... so that qualifies me for social security , I guess.........


Anyway , DCL , there is no slipper clutch on the DT .... the one that you are referring to is the basic centrifugal clutch that engages the main spur gear ... all rc nitro cars have these , if not then the R/C car cannot stop ... something like go-carts ( ie direct drive).

The slipper clutch on the other hand is something ( spring loaded ) that intervenes between the Spur Gear and the G/Box (usually ) thus allowing the torque from the engine to be 'slipped' out to the G/Box without too much wheel spin .... I suppose you could call it a form of traction control.

It is also supposed to protect the G/Box when the car is in the air and landing hard with the throttle wide open ...... I don't really subscribe to this view though.


The usual slipper clutches are friction type - spring loaded and adjustable vide one BIG nut.


You should see how my DT looks like now ... it is DIRTY like a wet dog.

But satisfyingly DIRTY !



And NITRO RICH.... the 'grasshopper' reference is from the david carradine bits in Kung Fu ( I think ) , just a little bit of patronising from me , the OLD man here.



Bye and best regards.

[DCLXVI]

I see the differance...

Have you gotten anywhere with the steel spur gear? that one would require some special manufacturing to allow mounting for the brake disc...thats the part that is troubleing me...

Hmmmm...how to rebuild the steering assy? Anyone got any ideas?

Hmm...I'm 24 seems I'm the youngest, exept mabey for Deadcat, can't remember if he told us? Did you? Bad memory...

/DCLXVI

[nitrorich]

Yeah,

that steering needs fixing. I'm using a Hitec 625BB-MG servo and it is going to waste on that floppy servo saver, maybe one of the std associated ones will fit....

anyway I'm going on holidays for a week, yay!!! so I wont be posting for a while, so dont think I have 'kicked the bucket'.

have fun!

[pistole]

one of us is GOING ON HOLIDAY .......... does this mean that there'll only be THREE of us then ?


LOL.



Hey , DCL ........... great to hear from ya. Anyway ....... I dumped the idea about the metal spur gear ........ because :-

(a) looking at the gear ( with the portion to hold the brake
disc ) and also the recessed portion to engage the
drive pin , it is going to be TOO difficult to make ,

(b) a new one is dirt cheap here ( about USD4.00 only ) , and

(c) experience from my EK 4 shows that a metal spur gear
is one hell of a NOISY .......... decellerating sounds like the
clappers from hell are sounding.


As for my DT , it is GOING GREAT ........... the kids at the park like my DT better than the EK ......... they're saying that the DT is way faster , especially at hill climbing ................. but I have not tuned in my EK yet ......... later on that , I am patient anyway.


How old is DEADCAT anyway ? Yo , DEADCAT ......... c'mere...... c'mere ....................



STEERING ASSEMBLY
__________________


Having looked at it , I think that it is incurable save for a total rebuild and new parts throughout ......... the reason being that I have compared the parts in the DT to the Ek as regards to the steering assembly and there is a very great difference in the material and workmanship expended. Eg , there is simply no play at all with the EK's assembly ( its from the EB4 1/8 buggy anyway) but when you shake the DT's one , its like a bag of chopsticks .................


I'll work on it though and keep y'all informed ......... yes sir.


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Ok, so I'll dump the idea of a metal spur gear, but the rebuilding of the steering assy is still a no. 1...

Was at my LHS yesterday (I love to have a good HS 10 min walk from work)... and looked at the parts listing for the SSB/SSR, they use the same gaerbos for those cars and know what? The SSR is 2-speed stock, that gear box will probalby fit... :D

Parts needed (I think)
PD0644
PD0646
PD0647

There may be another way that the breaks work on that car but the plastic "plate" that sits right in font of the spur gear is the same and the diff housing is the same, so it sould work...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

but ........... the SSR cars are 4wd ................ its belt driven and the engine is located crosswise vis the chassis and not like our DT .


But ............. worth a try .. if you can do it , I am going straight to the Store to get the parts .



Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

my DT is really flying today , I took her to the park and ran her with my EK ......... really great time ( at least till the rear wheel of my EK fell off ......... ) .


The DT is really fun and easy to drive fast ............


I dropped by the STORE today evening after the park run to get ONE wheel nut ( which the store kindly GAVE to me for FREE ) for my EK. So she's standing her ground now , and not lopsided.

My DT looks like it got bombed ......... dirty as hell.



Whilst I was at the STORE ........ they showed me a SERPENT VETEQ road car ( 0.21 engine ) ( cantilever suspension ) ( 4wd belt driven ) which is supposed to be amongst the FASTEST RC CARS in the WORLD ( if loaded with a good 0.21 like a Nova Rossi or RB Concept engine ).

The Veteq alone is about USD675-00 and the engine ............ and the radio ................. aughhh , no , no , no , hellllpppppppp.


Anyway , best regards and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Onroad...that can't be funny...

Get a Kyosho LandMax 2 and then you can run it both off- and on-road...You can probably uppgrade the LM2 with a NovaRossi or O.S: engine and a 3-4 speed gearbox to get some awesome speed from it...both on- and off-road...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

BTW, I'm going to upgrade to FM (40 MHz?) soon and then get a Kyosho PureTen Alpha 2 EP, just to have a spare car and indoors car :)

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

I know that the units we're using now are AM but is that such a problem ?

With my DT , I am having a spot of steering servo glitching ...... I am not sure what is causing it ..... will try to trace the wiring , etc first and then open up the receiver , if necessary , maybe it could be water contamination ... oh no.


Other than that , the DT is going great. I shall be off to the park again later , hopefully , no more lost wheels ...........


I think that just maybe , the DT's sloppy steering is actually contributing to the longevity of the car because of the sheer amount of play in the steering acting as a form of buffer.


Sorry , I do not know much about electric cars ....... the last one I had was , maybe 5-6 years ago ...... it was a Tamiya Monster Beetle ( QD ) ....... good fun but the batteries ran down in a BLINK. No fun after a while.



Oh well , thanks and safe runnings.

[pistole]

the quality of the parts and workmanship is astounding. Its like looking into a mechanical watch .....

There are some people at the NITRO ON-ROAD forum having a minor-war about the relative benefits or otherwise of this Veteq , but who could bear running such a mechanical marvel in a race ....... and thrashing it about.....



Bye and safe runnings.

By the way , its a holiday today in Malaysia. So I am a free man and free men go to the park ...............


LOL.

[InitialD]

Originally posted by pistole
By the way , its a holiday today in Malaysia. So I am a free man and free men go to the park ...............
LOL.

Isn't holiday yesterday?

[pistole]

Well ........ Monday was Deepavali .......

Tuesday was a working day.

Wednesday ( ie today ) is the first day of the Puasa (ie Ramadan - Muslim holy month ) , so everyone gets a holiday , whether you subscribe or not .......................


Which parts are you from ? I am from Johor.

What cars are you running ?


Great to hear from a fellow Malaysian.


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

No special reason for getting a FM, I just want one :D

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

hi .... great to hear from you.


How's your DT going ? Its now down again is it ?

I broke the rear shock tower AGAIN ( ie the modified SSR plastic tower ) when I rolled the DT today. But she was really flying all the way ....... mucho fun !


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Temporarily down...the servo saver C broke but I have the spare...I haven't seen much use of putting it together as it's pitck black when I come home about 17:00 everyday... :(

But this weekend though!

Sorry to hear about the shocktower...

Just looked at the pics at Ace Hobby on the SSR - the engine is mounted backwars (IE driveshaft pointing forward) so the diff and gearbox is probably the same...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

servo saver ............. augh.


Bye , and safe runnings.

[pistole]

I have a very 'stupid' question.


How do you stop your DT's engine ?


I usually put a finger to the exhaust and snuff out the engine ..............


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole
I have a very 'stupid' question.


How do you stop your DT's engine ?


I usually put a finger to the exhaust and snuff out the engine ..............


Bye and safe runnings.

At first I stopped the fuel flow...that wasn't good because the engine will run for quite some time and the mixture will get leaner up to the point where it is reving max before it cuts off... and it was harder to start after since I had to prime it all the time...

Then I covered the air inlet/filter...that was bad because it took a while and sometimes it's hard to cover the entire inlet...

Best metod is to do as you do...cover the pipe...I try to do it with my boot/shoe...

Grrr...I broke the screw that connects the throttle linkage to the servo arm...and I haven't had the time to fix a new screw...grrrr...

On a side note...I haven't got any reponse on my homepage...does anyone (um...think thats you Pistole) any comments?


/DCLXVI

[pistole]

you are right , starving the engine by pinching the fuel line in order to stop the engine is not a good idea. It results in the engine not having any fuel/lubricant right at the point when the engine is screaming away because the mixture is excessively lean.



As for my DT , the weather was great today , for a change , so I went to the Park and ran her together with my EK.

Having changed the rear shock mount again ( with the plastic SSR car's one ) , I have now zip-tied(!) one of my old bald tyres (together the insert too ) onto the rear shock mount in order to act as an absorber when the car flips ( I run her naked ). It works! I flipped here about 3-4 times and when before the mount was sure to break ........ it survived unscathed this time with the 'bumper' on top.


It looks great too....... like its carrying a spare wheel on the back!


Bye and safe runnings.


NB : As for your website ............ I am in the midst of inspecting it.............. Bye.

[pistole]

Pic , Pic !!!

[pistole]

pppppppppppppicccccccccccc

[pistole]

picturesssssss

[DCLXVI]

What the heck do you have hanging from the reciver/battery area?

If you have them in a larger format could you mail me those pics?

ottois@home.se

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

ummmmmmmm , that is a ............ plastic bag ..... which I use to bag my Receiver and another ..... for the Battery ........


Hey , I didn't say my car was pretty .... just that it goes like a scalded cat !


Bye , and safe runnings.


NB : Will email you the pics later. I need to sleep now. Its 10.30 pm over here now.

[DCLXVI]

Hmm...didn't say it was ugly...just wondered what it was...

Looking forward to the pics...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

well , I used to be more tidy with the DT ( ie used a proper balloon to bag the batt and the Rx ) but realised that it does not really matter since we're just trying to exclude the dirt/water and make access easy.

That , and , I am not racing it , so there is no need for 'cutting edge' stuff ...... just easy plain mods to make the car easier to drive , longer lasting and safer.

If you can see ( sorry for the SMALL format - that size restriction thing ......... ) my shocks , I have put in ALOT of spacers into the shocks , resulting in very-very stiff shocks all round.


The result on tarmac is amazing ...... the car handles like road car ... just a little twitchy but she goes round the corners without the old body roll ala BOAT action.


On rough ground .... its a little hard on the chassis , I know , but traction is better.


As for that spare tyre on the back ................ It works and thats all that matters to me because I am real tired of breaking those rear shock mounts . I am trying to figure out how to make one for the front shock tower but when I tried to strap my other bald tyre to it , the car looked like a very ugly scalded cat........ so I desisted.


Anyway , the cars are going very strong and I love running them ....... almost everyday. So I don't bother with the after run oils.


Bye and safe runnings.


NB : Perhaps you can post some pics too. I've noticed that posting pics is an easy way to attract people to view the thread and maybe , we can invite more DT10 guys out there to join our very , exclusive club.

[DCLXVI]

I'll fix pics later...

Thanks for the mail....

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Had a wonderfull run in the (snow cowerd) grass today...the DT-10 was going great exept for the fact that the stock (now bald) has almost no traction on that surface...Can't wait until I get my new rims so I can start using my ProLine tires again...

On another note - The snow and water running has made my engine really dirty so I'm in the middle of doing a big clean-up...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

If you can see ( sorry for the SMALL format - that size restriction thing ......... ) my shocks , I have put in ALOT of spacers into the shocks , resulting in very-very stiff shocks all round.

Just get new springs (the EB-4 will work I've heard) and fill the shocks with 40w (or harder) oil...that will get you better performance and cooler looks...

BTW - Why are you running with the body off? If it's because the body mounting pins trouble than do as I explained before...that works like a dream...I've rolled on several occations and the worst thing that happend was that the lower zip-tie came loose...just fit a new one and start racing again... :)

I think that running with the body on looks and feels so much cooler... :D

[pistole]

I was actually warned by the Store to avoid running the cars on wet ground because the water will eventually get into the bearings and result in rusting , etc....


But I reasoned that :-


(a) bearings are cheap,
(b) non-rain days are at a premium,
(c) I need the stress-relief from my Cars, and
(d) what the hell


so , I run them anyway ..... the DT looks like she could do with a bath and the EK is not far off too.


Both are going fine ....

As for the body , I am trying to run it with the body on .... but my great big bumper at the back results in my DT looking like a funny-car .... but I shall persevere.

Someone at the park asked me whether I built the DT myself ..... I guess that was due to the fact that the DT looked like hell and was naked on top of that.


Do post some pics ... I'll try to post some more later.


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

As for the body , I am trying to run it with the body on .... but my great big bumper at the back results in my DT looking like a funny-car .... but I shall persevere.

If you run with the body on you won't need to worry about the shock tower...

/DCLXVI

As per request:

[pistole]

thats a nice photo. The wooden table ....... the background ..... hey ....... not like my pics ...... car on white tiles ........ aaauughghghg.

I am so ashamed........... I'll stand in the corner for a while......


LOL.




Hey , how's yer DT going ?


Mine is flying fine......


Do you bother with AFTER RUN OIL ? Well , I run my cars EVERYDAY ...... so I understand that for this type of user , after run oil is not necessary.


I am going to dismantle and clean the shocks later ... they're starting to stick ........



Bye and safe runnings.

Oh , more pics please .......................

[deadcat]

Hi guys!

Drove the car for the third time. It ran really good!
I noticed that I lost a screw to the exhaust pipe so will have to get a new one.
The shocks though are really bad, especially when it's cold! I'll try changing the oil as you suggested DCLXVI.
As you already discussed here the stearing mechanism is bad too! Anybody found any solution?
As it's really cold now here in sweden i don't think there will be so much driving now :(

Oh, by the way. I'm 26 years old.

[DCLXVI]

Var i sthlm bor du deadcat?

Pistole : Last time I ran it ran nice...really nice...
Have the engine apart now for maintanance (sp?)

Deadcat : only use 40w oil if your running mostly on flat and level ground, other wise use something like 30w and get harder springs...
I agree that it's rapidly getting to cool for driving...but I found a place thats really nice so I guess that I will continue awhile more...

/DCLXIV

[DCLXVI]

Another nice picture of the DT-10 next to my cousins car - a Kyosho USA-1

[pistole]

hi , great to hear from ya'all.


That is a nice picture you have there of your DT and that Kyosho USA-1.

How does that USA-1 run ? Good ? How is it compared to your DT?

My EK is slowly getting up to speed and is pretty fast but the DT is definitely more nimble than the EK ....... and the DT is way easier to trash ....... you've got to be careful with the EK .... she's a heavyweight and needs caution.


Hey , DEADCAT ....... nice to see that you're back ..... we're only missing that other guy from Australia , whats his handle.......

Why don't you post a pic of your car Deadcat. We'd all like to see it.

Thanks and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

That USA-1 hasn't been running much at all...infact, it hasn't even been breaken/broken-in (eh...grammar?) because my cousin instanly decided he wanted to have a new radio/servo tray manufactured for him and a stronger steering servo...he has the new servo (Hi-Tec HS945 - 9 kg, high torque), but his former work mate hasn't been ably to cut the duraluminium yet...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Pic of the day!!!

Um...remember to glue those tires...

[DCLXVI]

Eh...pistole...could you take a pic of the DT-10 and the EK-4 like the attached pic of my DT-10 and my cousins USA-1?

And while I'm at it...

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=93298

On page two...


Let me shed some light here.

This is from a guy who works for TTR USA.

The truck is made by Thunder Tiger (So is the RTR RC10GT). The engine is a pullstart TTR 21BXP.

Its shaft drive.. and the Final kits tires should be differant.. they just slaped those on for the pics. Remember.. this is an unfinished truck.

You guys will know more in two weeks...

[nitrorich]

yes, I'm here again....its good to catch up on a weeks worth of chatter.

I drove the dt-10 around heaps...raced it with some 8th scale buggies. I was actually doing faster lap times than them!! (they were only novices- I was only slightly better)

They have better take-off, but the top speed was about the same. If you keep the revs up on the Dt-10 you'll be able to keep up with them. (unless they are using race engines).
oh, I was running 15% and they were only using 10%- those .21 engines are kinda made for 20%+.

Anyway it was fun.

and I did my first damage....I was running with the cover off and I hit a concealed pothole...4 flips and huge air. The result: two broken plastic body mounts(the rear ones). I was really going fast!!!
I've started to make some aluminium ones.

and the handle: 'plenty of nitro & keep it slightly rich' - the bloke from DownUnder

[pistole]

Dear DCL , DEADCAT and NITRORICH ..........


I had got back home late yesterday after a LONG day at the office. There was no chance to run the cars at the Park since it had been raining non-stop since about mid-day. So , by way of stress relief , I had taken the DT 10 apart when I got home ..... I laid out the car and tools nicely on a clean sheet of news paper and got to work.

I removed the engine to clean it throughly...... it was very very dirty .......... removed the manifold as well .......... loctited all the nuts when I put the engine back on ...... the DT looks better now with the cleanup.

I have noticed that for two rear wheel rims , there is now a slight deformity where the rim engages the drive pin on the drive hub. The plastic on the rim has deformed to reflect the turning-motion of the torque from the drive hub ....... so , there is now a slight , but visible bulge there on centre portion of the inside of the rims.

Does your DT have this ? Maybe its time for me to get new rims but is it feasible to remove my 'almost' new rear-tires from the old rims and put them onto the new rims ? I had glued them on really good with CA glue ......


As for the engine ..... she looks much better now ....... but there is a slight leak of fuel from the area between the engine casing and the drive-hub that mates with the flywheel. I don't think that this is in any way fatal or needs attention but it does cause a bit of a mess since the fuel attracts dirt .......... Any views here ?


My rear shocks are totally gone now. I dismantled them to check on their oil levels and found that both had NO OIL at all left in them. I filled them up with Automatic Transmission Oil ( Dextron II ) ......... just as a patch over but found that the oil promptly leaked out of the shock where the shock-shaft slides into the shock body. I think that the DIRT had got into the seal and destroyed it so resulting in the leaking shock. Is this seal replaceable ? Is there even a seal at all ? I have to check the diagram later and confirm. A shock boot would have been a good mod to do here ....... maybe a little bit of shrink-wrap would do ....... I am also thinking of my EK4 here.


Lets hear your views people.


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

If shrink-wrap is what I think it is then you 'd better use some baloons instead...you want the material to follow the motion of the shocks/springs as easily as possible...

Hmmm....my engine cleaning has been delayed...must go to the bank and cash a check I recived for some private consulting I did...then I can buy some new rims and put my pro-lines on the car... :D

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Do like this with the body mounts...

The black is the pin, the blue is a piece of fuel tubing and the gray is zip-ties...

Works like a charm. The positive side effect is that you only need to loosen the front pin to start the engine and refuel ect...
And it's crash proof...only thing I've managed so far is to lose one zip-tie...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

yeah , I think that ballons would be a better idea , just need to get a few later .............

By the way , how on earth did you do that diagram of the body mount pin ? That looks very professional ....... so professional that some people would be getting checks for independent consultation .................

LOL . Best of luck with your work DCL. Glad to see that you're making some money from it. Money ....... its not everything BUT it is important.

Its RAINING like CRAZY here , now.............. the PARK run is gone..

Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

you mean that you could actually keep up with the 1/8 buggy boys ?

Aren't those 1/8 buggies supposed to be really fast ?

The STORE is trying to get me to buy an EB4 .......... I am thinking about it. If it isn't all that much faster , maybe I will just stick with the faithful DT10.

Hows your DT doing ?


Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

I did that diagram in MS Paint took about 5 minutes... :)

A 1/8 buggy is probably faster than the DT-10 with the right engine (.21 @ about 2-2,5 HP) and the buggy sould have superios handling ect... just remeber that a 1/8 buggy will be more heavy than a 1/10 2WD stadium truck...

/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

BTW...I've got a project planned... A solid axel MT with a (quite) unique chassis build... :)

It's still on the drawing board... I'll have to check alot of stuff with the gearbox and diff and such...

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Ummm , MS Paint ..... wots that ..... LOL.


Anyhow , I noticed that you're interested in SOYA's thread about his Monster Truck ...... seems like a good idea , except for his quality ( or lack thereof ) of workmanship. My experience is that if it does not look right ... then it will , probably , not go right as well. ( Compare with THOR BOB's work , his is excellent ).

The punishment that our cars take means that any haphazard and/or paste-on job is quickly uncovered and taken to bits by the terrain. Maybe for starters , an on-road car would be a better bet since the stresses are much less and you can get away with alot of design/execution flaws.

Just try jumping a 3.5 kg truck ( my EK4 is almost 4 kg , with engine , radio and fuel ) with faulty suspension ... Soya's gonna learn real quick .......


ANCIENT HISTORY
_________________


Anyhow , years back I did build a simple car.

I used a chocolate tin cover as a chassis ( please do not laugh ) and I mounted a MAGNUM 0.25 ABC ( with Schneurle porting ... ) airplane engine (which I had bought vide post from HOBBY SHACK in the USA - they are now know as HOBBY PEOPLE ) together with a propeller. That engine was placed on a ladder frame which was in turn bolted to that chassis.

I used a simple 2 stick 2 channel radio ... made a really simple steering system out of wheels from my roller skates and aluminium plates. The fuel tank rode behind the engine. I mixed my own fuel then , ie 80% methanol mixed with 20% castor oil. No problems.

That car ran great on FLAT asphalt. The steering effect was almost non-existant ... since the 'car' was actually a 'plane' trying to pretend to be a car ... but it was real fun...

I got tired of it because it could not handle even the smallests obstructions since the prop does not really provide much forward thrust to the car ... but once she got going , it was quick BUT uncontrollable.


And with that PROP spinning all over .... it was also dangerous! I still have that engine , I'll try to look for it and post a pic.




FAST FORWARD TO TODAY ( ie the DT10 and EK4 ).
__________________________________________


These modern cars are so fast , so easy to drive and handles so well that they are frequently too good for the driver.

Their parts are long lasting and resistant to breakage.

Their engines are tunable , servicable and easy to start.

So , there is a world of a difference.



BUT , the caveat was that THEN , I did not have any money for these RC things ( I could only watch as some of my rich cousins then had 1/8 buggies and rc helicopters - in the 80s mind you! )

So , I had to build my own and have my own fun. Even the radio was 2nd hand.


After that , studies and work took away all my time. But now, I find that I need to have a bit of 'personal escape time' from my duties .... and have a bit more disposable income as well ... so....

I used to shoot alot (IPSC/IDPA) , but the range is MILES away .... so I am slowly weaning myself off that.

Now , I find that 1/2 hour with my cars is more than enough to give me a big grin on my face and make me happy with the world.


Anyway .....



Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

I had a 10 second run today...ended up in TOTAL disaster!

Some of the things I have some things I don't have... It will be a long way to the LHS moday after work... :(

What I broke:

1 st Front rim (PD6010)
1 st Front tire incl. insert (PD6007)
1 st Front knuckel/hub (PD0442)
1 st Rear rim (PD6011) (I have a old one but I'm not sure I want to use that)
1 st Rear tire incl. insert (PD6008)
1 st Rear hub (incl in PD0442)
1 st Rear drive axle (PD6020) (I have one broken and one new)
2 st Tie-rod end (PD6009) (I have some but they aren't TTR)
1 st Pillow ball (PD6003)

Why I broke it:

I started the car up, revved it a little, stared of slow to get the temp up...then I floored it and lost control completly, the car went WOT straight ahead and jumped a small distance into a concrete wall... it hit the wall somewhat in the side...thats why all the damage is on the wheels and suspension...

I don't think that a TRS would have helped me because the servos still worked (I think) and the failure was either a glitch or an interferance...

Well, theese are the things that happens...the thing that bothers me the most is that I couldn't find all the parts... the rear rim with tire and insert and the rear drive shaft is the parts that I would have mose use of...

/DCLXVI

[nitrorich]

Sorry 'bout your car, thems the breaks.

I'm sure you'll be back in no time.

Guys, you have to race with others....it is so much more fun!!!

the sound of 3 or 4 other nitro engines is awesome..

I was racing yesterday with 2 other 1/8th buggies..yes they are faster and handle better. But you can keep up with them on smaller tracks. We had an all out speed test with the Dt-10 and these beasts.
Top speed is about the same (40mph) yes, I was running a bit lean with that poor little engine but, hey??(I did take out a glow plug, but it couldn't have been too bad - there appears to be no burn marks on the piston head or side). Cylinder head is OK, but the glowplug base was browned some. I'll have to back off just a tad- fantasic little engine though!!!

I'm saving up for the TT evo 12. This will give the Dt10 some extra grunt and direct drop-in replacement, I think.

I've made up new aluminium body posts - nice and strong now. I might borrow a digital camera and put some pics online.


Talk soon

[pistole]

!
!
!
!
!
!


I am so very sorry to hear about your DT. It sounds like a very bad crash.


By way of a post mortem , a couple of questions :-


(a) why did the car go WOT and scoot off like that ?

(b) why were you not able to find all the parts ?

(c) was it radio glitch , interference or some equipment failure ?

(d) was it linkage failure ?



My DT has never do that ... only the steering servo used to glitch slightly , which I cured by opening up the servo and oiling and cleaning it out.

Could we have a pic of the 'leftover' of your DT ?


Goodness ........... bye and safe(r) runnings.

[pistole]

glad to hear that you're having fun with your DT. Must sure be fun running a couple of nitro cars together , the sound must be astounding!

I have not raced against any other cars .......... yet ... still learning the ropes here.

Someone did bring an electric buggy to the park whilst I was there but when the kid saw how fast the DT was ( hill climbing too!) , he scooted off real soon............. guess that the prospect of having his electric unable to climb the hill was too much of a factor..............

I am thinking of getting an EB4 ( 1/8 scale 0.21 buggy ) , the Store is bringing in the RTR version ( comes with a TTR .21 engine but without radio ) .......... but if its not alot quicker ... well.


But I have noticed that the EB4 ( since my EK4 has almost the same chassis and suspension ) is built much stronger than the DT10...... everything is over-engineered ........ I suppose thats why ( with the 4wd as well ) they turn and accelerate so well.

The DT10 has weight advantage ( power to weight ratio is the magic key here ).


Bye and safe runnings.

[nitrorich]

Yes,

the 1/8th buggies are built like a sh*thouse. Most are 4wd (all the ones I've seen) and are about 3.4 to 3.7 kg in weight - not light, but the steering is really quite different - '0' slop!! I guess with all that weight it has to be so.

anyway I was doing some calculations:

the Dt-10:
radius of wheel: 4" (101.6mm) = 0.310m circum.
gear ratio: 9.5:1 so @ 30000RPM =52.63 revs per sec.
so 58Km/hr is the top speed.

for the 1/8th buggies:
radius of wheel: 4.8"(121.92mm) = 0.382m circum.
gear ratio: 11.5:1 so @30000RPM =43.48 revs per sec.
so 59km/hr is the top speed.

obviously different gear ratios of the buggies will give different top speeds,but they seem to be geared a lot lower for better take off. Tyre size will alter speed too.

Tyre growth will actually make the speeds greater - which I havent factored in.

FAI

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole


I am so very sorry to hear about your DT. It sounds like a very bad crash.


By way of a post mortem , a couple of questions :-


(a) why did the car go WOT and scoot off like that ?

(b) why were you not able to find all the parts ?

(c) was it radio glitch , interference or some equipment failure ?

(d) was it linkage failure ?



My DT has never do that ... only the steering servo used to glitch slightly , which I cured by opening up the servo and oiling and cleaning it out.

Could we have a pic of the 'leftover' of your DT ?


Goodness ........... bye and safe(r) runnings.

Picture will come sunday/monday...

a) Because I went WOT and then lost control

b) vegitation

c) Probably

d) No...steering was out to...

I was talking to a guy working at the (L)HS today and he said that one probable thing was radio interferance (from lamps or simillar) and also my radio antenna is wrapped around the pressure line going from the pipe to the tank...this has worked perfect before but now something made the car loose ALL connection from the radio...might have even been vibrations that made the reciever glich...I really don't know...

Nitrorich : How did you calculate the gear ratios? Do you have all the ratios on the other gears? I guess I could count them my selfe but I really can't be botherd with the car until I can fix it again...

Oh and btw isn't the maximum RPM on the PRo .15BX engine 28.000? Or am I wrong?

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

DCL's accident was really very unique ............ a sudden and total radio failure resulting in a WOT senario. This is very dangerous... can you imagine the damage if the car had headed for a child or into traffic ?


In order to minimise this problem.
___________________________


1. Please check your equipment before starting the engine.

2. Allow the car to run around slowly to , first , check
the radio and second, warm up the engine.

3. Always shut down at the first sight/sound of trouble from the
radio / car.

4. Tune the carb in such a way as to allow the engine to be shut
down VIDE the radio ( ie , setting of the throttle linkage to
allow a complete closing of the throttle barrel ).


Bye and safe(r) runnings.



NB : DCL , I have lost things in VEGETATION before...the last time I lost a wheel nut on my EK4 in short-grass..... very very frustrating .

[pistole]

this is an inaccurate method to use.

The reason being that there is a very big (which is not
subsceptible to calculation) intervening factor , ie , wheel
slip/spin.


Wheel slip is very much more pronounced in the DT10 since it is both light and 2wd. I have driven the DT and compared it with the EK4 ........... the level of traction of these heavy 4wd buggy/trucks is astounding.

As for outright straight line speed on a good surface .... the 2wd Lights should win.


As for the 1/8 buggies , they are HEAVY and 4wd...... so much more usable traction is available to propel the car and not for just wheel spin.



Bye and safe runnings.

[nitrorich]

1..2...3....testing???

[nitrorich]

Yes, many, many factors to consider when calculating speed of cars..but the Dt-10 & 1/8th buggies have about the same top end. Period. I can speak from experience here. It is fun to stuff around with calculations, though.

My gear ratio for the DT-10 was calculated using very primitive methods. I have my car stripped down a little 'cos it was soooo dirty, so I might go a bit further and count the diff gear and drive cog. (the pinion is 14T & spur 41T- I think)

Anyway, I inspected the tuned pipe and it has started to melt- just before the divergent cone,ie the bit that connects to the header, is stuffed (not viewable, without disconnecting the silicone adapter). The diameter is about 1/2 of what it should be...that had to be killing some power!!!

also I noticed that the internal baffle is shocking it looks very restrictive & has a slash opening out into the convergent chamber(you need a torch to see). I dont know if this is a manufacturing effort or my high-heat escapades??

check yours out guys, I have a metal racing pipe to put on. It should improve performance over the stock one.

Has anyone done a performance test -plastic vs metal pipes. I know that metal ones outperform aluminum ones. Plastic absorbes sound, so I guess a noticeable difference would be noted.

You guys must think I'm an essay writer.

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by pistole
DCL's accident was really very unique ............ a sudden and total radio failure resulting in a WOT senario. This is very dangerous... can you imagine the damage if the car had headed for a child or into traffic ?


In order to minimise this problem.
___________________________


1. Please check your equipment before starting the engine.

2. Allow the car to run around slowly to , first , check
the radio and second, warm up the engine.

3. Always shut down at the first sight/sound of trouble from the
radio / car.

4. Tune the carb in such a way as to allow the engine to be shut
down VIDE the radio ( ie , setting of the throttle linkage to
allow a complete closing of the throttle barrel ).


Bye and safe(r) runnings.



NB : DCL , I have lost things in VEGETATION before...the last time I lost a wheel nut on my EK4 in short-grass..... very very frustrating .

I'm doing that every time I start the car...problem is that didn't help me...This friday I'm getting a failsafe, TRS and probably a FM radio... the fail safe is about $30 and the radio (HiTech) is about $130...
This spring/summer I will buy an EK-4 and join Pistole on the Hi Power trip... :)
Before that I will get atleast one electric car to have as a spare car and since it is elec. it will be capable of running indoors...
Besides...only thing I need are the car and two or three batterys since I already have servos and radio gear (radio system will be "inherited from the DT-10 in form of the stock AM system)...

Oh, btw, when I was at my LHS I saw some nice tires...asphalt/gravel tires with a nice grove, seemed to be of a guite soft compund to...I'll buy those on friday too... :)
(the guy at the LHS thought I sould have a chair with my name on it due to the number of times I've been there lately :D )


/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Hi !

If you're considering getting an EK4 , congratulations ! I have been having great fun ( weather permitting ) with mine.

BUT I want to caution the following :-

(a) ONLY buy the Version 2 ( the one with the tall cylinder head
etc , etc ) ........ it is almost suicide to buy to older version,


(b) make SURE that your LHS carries TTR EB4 (1/8 buggy)
because the EK4 shares almost all her parts with it. No
point buying it if there is no parts support over there.


I can get is cheap over here in Malaysia. About , roughly USD380-00 ( I do not know how much that is in SEK ).

Let me know ... and I will put in touch with my local Store.



I am still agonizing over buying the Fail Safe ... but after hearing about what happened to your DT .........



Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

I can get is cheap over here in Malaysia. About , roughly USD380-00 ( I do not know how much that is in SEK ).

Thats about 3800 SEK (10 SEK roughly $1 US) and I can get one here for about 6-7000 SEK incl. VAT...

About part support - The HS I go to supports TT but doesn't stock the parts...

/DCLXVI

[nitrorich]

hmmm, you guys must be loaded with spare cash...I'll just have to stick with my Dt-10 for a while. You are making me envious, though. The EK-4 looks beasty!!

I also have noticed that here in Oz TT parts have to be ordered in. I guess that is because the DT-10 & Ek-4 are fairly new products.
How long has the DT-10 been out- it is older than the EK-4, isnt it??

anyway digresing a little....

I have counted the teeth on the gears/cogs:

pinion: 14T
spur:41T
diff drive cog:11T
diff gear:35T

so this gives a ratio of 9.318:1

I was way off before....oh well the higher ratio in my calculations probably counteracted some of the other losses.

[pistole]

naw ....... we're not rolling in money ....... its just that we've been saving for an awfully long time.

And , the EK4 is great fun ......


Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

Hi.


How's your DT10 rebuild coming along ?

I just bought (yesterday after work) a new rear shock tower. They sold me the shock tower from the EB4 ( since it is both bigger and thicker ) ... but it will require some mods to fit ( like new mounting holes ).

But it sure does look nice ( its an ERGAL part ... I think ) and is anodized RED in colour.

I will be working on that this weekend , if my back-log of work allows.............


Anyway , the DT is going great ......... I ran her a bit yesterday (just my luck , the only day that it did not rain ... I did not bring my cars to the office ...... so no park run for them ) on asphalt at home....... she's fast but needs her shocks to be sorted out... more later.


Bye and safe runnings.

[nitrorich]

I feel sorry for you guys......I'm not bragging, but rain days are at a premium over here. I've been able to run my Dt-10 every day since I got it. (Not that I have, though). In actual fact it is pretty much a drought over here....water restrictions etc etc....


It would be fun to run it in snow like you DCL...would you believe I have never actually been in snow???


This morning I re-vamped the DT-10....I have gone with a pink theme....It now has fuel tubing and a Kyosho Rx cover all in that bright pink-looks very impressive.

money, money, money - wish it grew on trees.

I now have no hope of getting another nitro car....my missus & I have just started building a new house so any dreams of an EK-4 has now been flattened with bricks & mortar.....

[DCLXVI]

It would be fun to run it in snow like you DCL...would you believe I have never actually been in snow???

Hmm...that would actually be quite hard to imagine for me as I have grown up in a country that has snow in the winters...
One of my colleuages (sp?) told me soething that made me think for a bit of what kind of country I really live in...
the thing is that this summer we had about 30-35 deg. C for about three month with almost NO rain at all now we are currenly around 0 deg (C) and dipping soon there will be closer to -20 deg and sun rise about 10-11 a.m. and sun down at about 3 p.m. in the afternoon! and the little light that comes from the sun is not that bright...more like a haze...in the summers, the sun rises about 2-3 a.m. and sets around 10-11 p.m....

I have never thought of it but this is really silly having a 50 deg drop in temperature and a day that is like 12-14 hour shorter in the winters than the summer...that's also why I can't run my car that much...around 4 p.m. it's dark and around 5-6 p.m. (thats when I come home from work) it's almost pitch black...
BUT if I get all thoose parts I broke last saturday tomorrow, I will go to a lit parkinglot and thrach around some because I got some seriouse craving!

Pistole - Have you checked on that 2-speed? I'm really considering it...

BTW - tomorrow at my LHS, If the parts haven't shoown up yet, I will seriously consider buying a Kyosho PureTen rally car (elec., kit) and a battery or two for it...If they on the otherhand has the parts I will buy thoose, a failsafe and probably a FM radio system! If I pass up the radio might get sold as it is on special prcie(old model)


/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Parts are bought and installed... time is 0:15 here and I'm currently thinking about do out and drive some... :)

Also bought some new rear tires...street groove...I'll post pics sunday or saturday...

Bought the FM-radio and a failsafe...I'll go out right now and try them on for sieze... :D

I'm happy!!! :D :D :D

btw...things seem to be quiet around here...come on lets get the party going again...!

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

Hey !


I am still here , but the Zone' Forum was not accessible to us from over here ... so I could not read nor post anything on this Forum.

Sorry.

Any how , am glad to hear that you've gotten your parts.

Which FM radio did you buy ?

Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

http://www.hitecrcd.com/Radios/lynxFM.htm
http://www.hitecrcd.com/Receivers/HFS03MM.htm <-- mine is black and 40MHz

And to put it like Britney Spears (not that I even like her) - Opps I did it again...

I crashed it...I'm getting good at this (crashing) Hit a curb at near max speed...I'll fix a little picture explaining why...but it was driver error this time...

I have all the parts (thankfully)

/DCLXVI

[pistole]

I have installed the EB4 rear Ergal shock mount onto my DT10 - the drilling was a pain ..... and I am not so good at it anymore.

But the DT is running great .... went to the park at about lunchtime and ran her hard. It was flying all the way !


DCL ........ you've got to stop driving it on the street ...... when I do so , I drive really conservatively because I know that there is no margin for error , not like on a nice soft grass field. And the stuff that you hit when you're on the street is invariably very hard and will break your car easily.

Bye and safe runnings.

[pistole]

hi , everyone.

She's under my desk if anyone of you was thinking .........



LOL

Bye and safe runnings.

[DCLXVI]

DCL ........ you've got to stop driving it on the street ...... when I do so , I drive really conservatively because I know that there is no margin for error , not like on a nice soft grass field. And the stuff that you hit when you're on the street is invariably very hard and will break your car easily.

That was a big parking lot I was driving on... the rear lost traction as I was approaching myselfe and was just about to to a slow passover when (as said) the car lost traction in the rear and started sliding, regained grip and drove hard with the side into the curb just some meters to the side of me...
I did have all the parts (exept servo save but a zip-tie managed that) so I could reassable it saturday only to drive for a few minutes until the diff housing, rear and front(!!!) body mont broke due to a upside down landing...probably due to the cold also (~0 deg C and alot of snow)... This was on a BIG open grass field...

I still have confidence in the car but not in me as a driver of it and not the weather during the winter as being good for all the plasics on the car...

I have looked into the steering assebly and will order the entire steering assy for the SSB/SSR as that assy is "break-free" it is the same kind of servo saver as my cousin has on his USA-1, witch we btw ran some time today...it was diong great, but it is still being broken in...


/DCLXVI

[DCLXVI]

Oh I almost forgot, check theese out...coursey of the TTR distrobutor in Sweden, CarroCar AB, only first page in Swedish:

http://www.carrocar.se/sprangskisser/pdf/DT10.pdf
http://www.carrocar.se/sprangskisser/pdf/SSB.pdf
http://www.carrocar.se/sprangskisser/pdf/SSR.pdf

Check out the SSR/SSB steering...

/DCLXVI

[nitrorich]

the steel pipe works great...there is a noticeable increase in power!! I'm not talking about HUGE amounts, but enough to increase the smile when you peg the throttle.

[nitrorich]

just a small jump....It is hard to take photos when you go fast!!

[pistole]

Hi ! Good to hear from you.


Nice pics of your car there. Did you take the action shot yourself or did you have someone to help you ?

You've replaced the pipe with a steel one ? I noticed that the plastic stock pipe had a baffle in it , something like a plate with holes. Does you steel pipe have a baffle ? If not , is it noisy ?

Great jumping pic !

Do remember to zip-tie your cylinder head .... mine got mangled the first time I rolled it without its body ...


Bye and safe runnings.

[nitrorich]

yes it has baffles, however the holes in the plate are a lot larger than the stock pipe, so it is noisier!! You get that real 'ping-ping' sound from the engine. It actually is easier to tune for higher performance 'cos u can hear the 'harmony' of the pipe and engine to determine optimal settings.

I have a helper for the car shots..I have some of my mates 1/8th scale jumping the same ramp. I'll see if I can get a shot of them both jumping

[pistole]

whats happened to DEADCAT ? Is he still around ?

It is raining like crazy now. So no park run.

My cars are great though ..... I could not start the DT10 yesterday evening ....... thought something was broken ....... until I realised that the glow igniter was flat !

Just proves that its often the basic things that we forget to do that trips us up.

Anyway , bye and safe runnings.