Keil Kraft Gypsy

[Taylorcraft]

Okay, now the Gypsy is in progress. It's gonna be interresting to see how it will turn out.

For now I've done the wing. It was a great experience, and also a challenge to work with dope and tissue. :) All construction is done according to plans.

Here's a picture of it, if the good spirits of the Internet are with us... :)

BRG

Taylorcraft
____________________________________
Given enough power even a brick will fly.
But the lighter the brick, the better it flies!

[Taylorcraft]

BTW, I also tried the rib technique Dave used for his Vagabond. Here's the result.

This wing is for my own design, "Classic".

It's 800 millimeters in span, ratio 1:5 and weighs 21 grams.

I'd like to check out some mylar for covering for it, but noone seems to have it in stock. RA Microlite is also out of the question, or I haven't searched hard enough. :) Maybe I'll use dope and tissue here as well...

BRG

Taylorcraft
____________________________________
Given enough power even a brick will fly.
But the lighter the brick, the better it flies!

[FLB]

Hi Taylorcraft,

Very nice work and finish. I also want to try Dave rib technique in a near future.

Will keep a eye on your progression... ;)

Regards

FLB

[Dave Robelen]

Hi Taylorcraft,
Obviously you have not lost your touch. That is a mighty clean looking wing. You might try www.homefly.com/ for the mylar and RA Microlite. He had both in stock a couple of weeks ago. Nice guy to deal with as well.
Regards, Dave

[Taylorcraft]

Friends,

First of all, thank you very much for your kind words!

I've been searching all over Sweden for a suitable covering, the only one I've found so far is Litespan, sold by my LHS and SoLite, sold by one single store down south... We do have a vast market for fliers interrested in R/C Micro flyers, yep! (ironic)... :D

Plastic wrap up here is made of polyethylene, and the only glue that will stick to it is probably contact cement. I found some waterbased contact cement that I will check out... The film is very light but I don't know about the strength and shrink abilities yet. Guess it's trial and error time again ;p

The Gypsy is now mostly finished, I got a Simprop 280 motor with a 4:1 drive and 10/4.7 prop for it last weekend. I also bought a couple of 250mAh 7-cell NiCDs for it as well, along with a Simprop 12A ESC.
I have two HS55s and they should be more than adequate...
The next step will be a GWS receiver.

I built the original tail first, just to get the feel of it, but will do a new version with rudder and elevator. Wonder if I should keep the sub fins on the new tail or not, the 10/4.7 prop is kinda smaller than the original 15'' balsa prop... :rolleyes:

Pix will follow as soon as I get my hands on a camera again.

BRG

Taylorcraft
_____________________________________
Given enough power even a brick will fly.
But the lighter the brick, the better it flies!

[Dave Robelen]

Hello Taylorcraft,
I would start with the tail fins, even with the small prop. The usual issue in these conversions is Dutch Roll as a result of the larger dihedral. Also, the fee flight version probably flew with a cG farther back than what you are contemplating for R/C. Why not arrange to mount them so that they could be removed without scarring if they seem to be unnecesary. I would rather have a model theat is a bit "stiff" in the turns, than one that is borderline unstable on the early flights. Justa thought.
Regards, Dave

[Taylorcraft]

Sir,

You're right, as usual. :)

Yes, I will keep them on, at least for testing. I made small "pockets" in the tail for slotting them in, seems to work just OK.

I wondered what to use for pushrods. Then I came down from the attic with a set of old strings for my electrical bass guitar? They seem to be more or less perfect as soon as I get the outer copper and steel wound off. Either this or I'll go for fishing monofilament in a pull-pull setup. time will show.

BRG

Taylorcraft
___________________________________
Given enough power even a brick will fly.
But the lighter the brick, the better it flies!

[Dave Robelen]

Hello Taylorcraft,
The instrument strings should be fine if run through suitable conduits. I would not reccomend monofilament as it changes length with the weather. I have had fine results with the fishing lines made from the Kevlar family, probably any of the braided type would be suitable. The nylon and polyester materials are just amazing as to how they repond to temperature and/or humidity changes. As an aside, how much power would you reccomend for a medium weight brick;) ?
Regards, Dave

[Taylorcraft]

Sir,

Well, it mainly depens on the size of the brick (it might induce drag), what kind of material it's made of and other variable parameters. Some say the only substitute for horsepower is more horsepower and, this might also be a part of the equation. On top of this one must also calculate which scale the brick is made in... :D

In other words, you really gave me a good laugh here, how can I now work with small and fragile balsa parts without breaking them? *rotfl*....

I used monofilament for the Onecent "when I was young" :p and it worked just great. Maybe I was just lucky. But now you sent me back to the good old Test Bench... It oughta be the right season for it now up here, with high temperatures during day and well below freezing during night. Reminds me of the physics experiments from school... :)

I'll stop by the sports shop when I get the time and ask for some braided fishing line to do comparison tests as well. You know, this is getting more and more interresting!! Just to prove, if you think you've seen it all, you ain't seen a thing! :)

BRG

Taylorcraft
___________________________________
Given enough power even a brick will fly.
But the lighter the brick, the better it flies!

[Mariano]

just curious if this is a true..can a virus crash your computer to the point it won't even turn on?


_________________
registry cleaner (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z61HnBZynb8)

[JohnR]

yes it can