Tamiya TB-01 Rally Forum

[93SRV]

This is a thread for the slim chance that some other person might have a TB01 and acually race it. Rally, on or off road. I have rally equipped TB01 with a 2001 Subaru WRX body for it. Anybody else out there?

[Albertt]

My TA04 is great, but it has ground clearance and the chassis design lets pebbles and dirt in too easily. Plus, the belt design is too delicate in the TA04, I've already chewed up a pair of belts.

[93SRV]

I find it can really take a beating..
it's a good car. can't compete very well on pavement tracks, but off road i find it one of the best. the shaft drive definantly helps, but since it's a tamiya, it does need a lot of hop ups.

[Albertt]

I've owned my TA04 for about a year now. And now I'm thinking that I should've bought a TB01. I'm not the type of guy who likes to have multiple cars, so I'm kind of stuck unless I can get rid of the TA04 for a good price.

93SRV and others: Are there other sites I can visit to find out more about modifying (Hop-Ups) and setting up the TB01? Or perhaps a place where I might find one used for sale?

Thanks
AL

[93SRV]

i've been looking for TB01 sites for a while now. I'll tell ya this much, the TA04 has a lot more support than the TB01. In reality, the TA04 is the better car (lighter, etc) but the TB01 is tough.. if you are thinking of going Rally style then get the TB for sure. there's enough hop ups out there to make it pretty competetive on the track too.

I'll try to round up what i've found and post that too.

[93SRV]

here's a setup for the 2001 Tamiya Cup rally winner.
Carpet track but sitll useful info.

http://www.hundred-aker.co.uk/setupr1rally.htm

Some useful hopups.

http://www.tamiya.nl/tamoptions/tam_53000_tb01.html

Snowproofing/water resistant (NOT waterproof).

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/ht_snoproof.asp

I'll try to find more but there's not a whole lot out there.

[Racer123091]

at my local track (reflex rc) a guy races an evo tb01 (on road and actually does pretty well. haven't seen anyone rally with one yet

[Albertt]

I was wondering because I was sort of weened on the fact that ball diffs made a big difference in handling. When I raced off-road ten years ago with my Lazer, I realized this was true. When I bought the TA04 a year and half ago, I swapped ball diffs in and it made a world of improvement to me.

Do guys who run TB01s in rally racing keep the gear diffs? Am I also to assume that the ball diffs from the TB Evolution2 would be the right fit?

[93SRV]

i haven't made that swap yet, but i've heard good things about swapping in the ball diff up front.

[shadmaster4]

How much would you sell your TAO4 for? What type of TAO4 is it?

[DIrTjUNkie]

I picked up a TB-01 imprezza 2001 prototype
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/tb01/images/58271/large_1.jpg

I finally ran in at my local track last nite. "Socal Raceway" pretty much bone stock except for the p2k motor and the proline rally tires. I was pretty impressed on how the vehicle handled out of the box! The only thing that bugged me was the body I was using was dragging when I cleared the doubles with it!, nothin that the scissors cant handle....Its kinda funny when your passing trucks and buggies in the technical part of the tracks! :D or at least the novices!

cant wait to take it our again!

Ray

[ginshun]

I just built the same car a few weeks ago and I love it. For rallying or going offroad, I can't imagine that any other street type car would be better. I have run it in the snow, and on wet roads a bunch of times, and I have yet to get a drop of water inside the housing. The totoally enclosed tub chassis is awesome. I have flipped it a couple of times with no damage as well. My only knock is that there is a fair amount of play in the stearing, but from what I have read, that can be taken care of with a few hop-ups. It isn't really very fast either, I think it is time for a better motor and some different gearing. I need to speed it up some.
Here it is.

http://ginsh.friendpages.com/pages/partypeople/ginsh/photo13.jpg

http://ginsh.friendpages.com/pages/partypeople/ginsh/photo12.jpg

http://ginsh.friendpages.com/pages/partypeople/ginsh/photo11.jpg

http://ginsh.friendpages.com/pages/partypeople/ginsh/photo10.jpg

http://ginsh.friendpages.com/pages/partypeople/ginsh/photo9.jpg

[Josh11886]

Im trying do decide between getting a TB01, or a HPI RS4 Rally. Both seem to be good cars, with a lot of hop-up parts. Iether one would be a good decision, but which do you think would be better? Granted, with this being a "TBO1" forum, the RS4 is at a disadvantage. Any insight would be appreciated.

[Janders]

I just got my 99' German Impreza TB01, and I love it. I added washers to the upper suspension mounts, and flipped the rear uppersuspension mount and ditched the c clamps over the rear springs, so the rear now sits slightly higher than the front.
I want to build a brace to soak up some of the slop inthe front steering(allthough it really isn't that bad). The best place to brace looks like it would be connecting the bottom of the steering shaftes(part # C3 tie rods?) to the bottom of the axle holder(part # A-1, not sure the name of it). Along with a few more washers, I think this will work.
Washers unders the steering arm(#C3?) did reduce slop noticeably. I'll post pics as soon as I figure out if my Sony Digi cam is compatible with my Mac.

[Janders]

I still have my stock motor, but it defineately could use improvement powerwise. I also still have the stock Manual SC. I plan on getting an ESC, bearings and a motor from Tower this week. I just have to decide on a motor before I pick the ESC.
Reliable Fast, something I don't have to replace too ofen..Any ideas?

I found this "Way to pick a Motor Link" you guys may be interested in:
http://http://www.teamtrinity.com/motors/motorchart.asp

[Josh11886]

How good is the kit's gear? I have an esc and a motor from another car but i don't wand to swap them if I don't have to. Also, is it hard to paint the drivers? In all the pictures no one has them in.

[DIrTjUNkie]

like I stated earlier, I picked up the TB01, picked it cause of personal preference, and Indistructability! Of course, you will have to pick up a bunch of Hop-Ups to get it running Sound, but thats the best Part!! :) I've heard too many people with belt drivin cars have problems with breakage too. If your looking for a low maintainance (spell check?) vehicle then Tamiya's the one. Im not in any way knocking HPI's cars.

my .02

ray

[DIrTjUNkie]

are you running the car w/o inserts? I picked up some hpi soft inserts and it actually made the tire really hard

ray

[ginshun]

Actually, I am running the car without inserts. How the heck did you know that? :confused:

[SteveK]

Can somebody measure the span between the inner hinge pins on the front and rear suspension arms of the TB01?

I'm getting kind of fed-up with my HPI RS4 and Rally (Lack of parts availabilty, exposed belt drivetrain, plus the company is just being a pain with their message boards) and I've been thinking about making a switch to either the TB01 or TC3 with rally conversion.

I have a TL01, and the HPI RS4 Rally suspension arms will fit, so it can be either 190mm or 200mm with them. I thought they would fit the TB01 as well, but somebody who tried my method said they only made the car 190mm wide. If somebody could measure the width between the inner hinge pin holes on the chassis, I could check the dimensions against my TL01 and make sure.

[Jimmy33]

hello there, I ahve had my TB01 Ford Focus rally for just over 6 months, and although I am selling I have loved it, even though it was a bit low in the ground clearnece stakes!!!!:rolleyes: :D

[ginshun]

I thought that it was a little low in the ground clearance as well, especially in the back. What I did was to flip the peice that the shocks connect to in the back over. I had to do some dremmel alterations to get it to fit right, but it was no big deal. The back is now a bit higher than the front. it actually imoroved the clearance quite a bit. I can bash in the back yard now without bottoming out like I used to.

[Jimmy33]

how do you mean flip the thing the socks connect to - you got a picture? :confused:

[Janders]

I flipped the rear mount, and then to even it out a little I moved the C-Clamps on the rear shocks to the front
Jimmy-
It's just the part where the upper parts of the shocks attach to. it forms a gradual bananna, tips pointed up, attached to the shocks w/ 2 screws, and to the body with two screws. You just flip it so the bananna tips point down.

[Jimmy33]

Ahhhhhhhhh I see thank you. So what is the maximum groud clearence availible on the TB01

Also where you given in the pack the long/wide black nut to widen the cars stance. Can get an extened axil. Will ITEM 50808 (SP808) TG10 Long Wheel Axle*2 do the job?
Look on page
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/mini191.htm

[Bandini]

A simple question; what pitch does Tamiya use on the bevel pinion & ring gear? A metric pitch, I suppose; 0.6? Does anyone know for sure?

[Josh11886]

Is there any difference between the chassis of the TBO1s sold with rally bodies. It looks like all tamyia did was add a cover for the chasis, and throw on some rally tires. Also, does anyone have any experience with the loner suspension arms offered? If they make a big difference in handeling ill buy them now and install them as i build the kit.

Thanks, Josh

[Janders]

I ran into conflicting information from the Tower hobbies site. but I found a foreign site with Tamiya electrics all listed as .6, that info is from a .nl site(whatever country that is?).

jimmy-
the clearance of my TB-01 with nothing but the suspension mount flipped is about .75 inches, about .5-.6 on the front. I also did get the long black hex nuts to extend the wheelbase in the rally kit, but didn't have screws long enough for it. It just extends the wheel, so the stock driveshafts will work fine

[Bandini]

Janders: Almost all Tamiya cars use straight .6 pinion- and spur gears, but TB-01 and the nitro tourers also use "TGX Bevel Pinion & Ring Gear", part no. 50630. I'm asking specifically about the pitch of these gears.

P.S. .nl is the Netherlands, aka Holland.

[Jimmy33]

can you get the longer screws to fit, as I want to fit a wider body?

[Janders]

Baldini,
here it looks like the TGX uses .8's
Tamiya Pinions (http://www.tamiya.nl/tamoptions/tam_53000_04.html)

Jimmy,
Sorry aboutthe confusion, but you do need longer axles/cups(part that the wheel threads onto), otherwise the threads aren't long enough to connect the nut onto with the wheel spacers(I tried).

[Jimmy33]

You got an order number for them

[ginshun]

Here is a pic of that back shock mount thing when it is a bit altered and flipped upside down.


http://ginsh.friendpages.com/pages/partypeople/ginsh/photo14.jpg

should give you a better idea of exactly what I am talking about. If I can find a ruler around here somewhere I will measure the clearance.

[Janders]

The car runs great in gravel, until a rock pops up and jams the steering linkage. This has happedned to me about once a pack when I run on our gravel filled street. I need to find a way to make a 'mud flap' or something to deflect gravel/sand without interfering with the steering.
Any ideas?

[SteveK]

Anybody? Inner hinge-pin spread on a TB01 chassis? Anybody? Beuller? Beuller? Frye?

[DIrTjUNkie]

Thats a good Idea! :D did it give you a bit more g-clearance?

[Whacky]

He Steve K

The distance between the hingepins is 3.5 cm (1 inch =2.54 cm).
The rs4 arms can be fitted if they fit the tl01 (TBO1 arms fit the TL01 without mods).
Have seen someware whas using RS4 arms on his TB01 and the width of the car was just a little wider than 190mm.

Hope this helps!

[SteveK]

Thank you. The TL01 inner pin spacing is slightly wider than that of the RS4, so the arms fit and work at 190mm and 200mm just fine. A member of the old HPI forum said he used the RS4 arms after I gave the parts list, and he only got 190mm on his TB01. I figured the two cars (TL01 and TB01) used similar arms, so I'm thinking he either used cut-down RS4 arms or used RS4 2 arms that are only for 190mm.

Have you guys found the long-span suspension to give adequette suspension travel and clearance for off-road?

[SteveK]

Hmm. I get a 42.5mm span of the inner hinge pins on my TL01. Looks like the RS4 arms in 200mm setup will only give you about 190mm with with the TB01. Well, it should give more positive suspension geometry and wheel travel than the stock stock suspension.

I've been meaning to go to Tamiya bodies anyway: They have higher hood lines and decklids, giving more clearance for taller tires (I have a set of Custom Works dirt-oval front tires that are considerably taller than the tallest rally tires I could find).

[ginshun]

Yes, flipping that piece did give me a bit more ground clearance.

I did some snow-rally'n today too. Check it out.

[R/cpb]

you do know that water(that includes snow) can fry an electric car? just thought u might want to know:)

[ginshun]

Ya, that is why the TB-01 is so sweet. All that snow, and not a drop of water inside the inner body. The electronics inside that thing are completely dry.

[SteveK]

Yeah, that's what is drawing me to the TB01. The RS4 Rally may be wider, have more suspension, and jump better, but the belt drive can easily be fouled, sometimes even with the inner body set.

[Janders]

*** is wrong with this forum. I try to post a new message, and it tells me that the administrators won't allow this function? I can't even get to the 'contact us' page without authority. Am I on parole for some unknow reason.lol. I can only post in reply to other msg's
.
.
Any ways , back to buisness: I have a TB01 rally with a
Orion 15X2 motor, ESC, Ballbearings(I've destoyed my front suspension mount, now the shocks mount to the diff directly). I have about $150 to spend on this car for fun potential and have no idea what to buy. My first ideas are the wide suspension kit(but it already handles well?!) and the aluminum motor mount(but I believe I can modify the stock one to work(Havok 15X2 not in yet)). Would upgraded suspen actuallt make a difference? I'm running mostly on rough gravel/pavement. I know I'm rambling a little, but what about better traction(wider rims or tires with the stock mounting on the axles?).

Any ideas I'm open to.... Also any DIY stuff is nice, I've got a degree in Dremelology

[Cychalen]

You should get the aluminium motor mount if you want to install a hotter motor.
Universal shaft, aluminium racing steering set, lightweight gear set are good upgrades too.

[Jimmy33]

did the flick- and trhe whole car handles mujch better to and takes all of the jumps better.

I am going to be trying it with my new 3300 packs in this week ends yes I did say 3300 packs!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DIrTjUNkie]

I just broke my shock towers messin around with no body (duh!):mad: tryin to find part # for the the stock shock towers but even tower doesnt carry em......hmmm I guess I might have to pick up ones from pengiun? ne one runnin these? Right now I have the shocks attached to the diff covers. I think I actually lost ride height doin this too?? :confused:

Ne ways ordered a ball diff for the bugger today! cant wait till it gets here!

Peace!
Ray

[Janders]

Yup. I just did the same, my front shock tower snapped. I have t mounted on the diff case, ride height looks pretty close to being the same. If you have a dremel and some thick plastic you can make your own mount pretty easilly, with a narrow rectangle and 4 holes. Aren't the penguin mounts made for touring(light & breakable)?

[Josh11886]

Does anybody have any experience with the longer arms?

[ginshun]

I was wondering were I could get parts like this too. I haven't broken any yet, but I am sure I will sooner or later. I think that the shock towers are on the "E" parts tree, which I assume you would have to buy all of to get them. Still, does anyone know where to get this kind of stuff??

[DIrTjUNkie]

I printed the exploded view of parts from tamiya's website, and the "E" parts bag part # is : 000578 (E PARTS E1-E10) I tried pulling this # thru tower hobbies, but it does not exist :( only easy alternative would be for me to just pick up the penguin parts.. for now.. I Will not be running the car w/o a body no more! :D

[Janders]

Holy Sh**, it's unbelieveably faster than the stock setup. I have the Havok 15X2, and it is great! The bearings allow the wheels to spin much more freely(with motor off). I got the Duratraxx Intellispeed ESC, and it has a lot of very useful features, allthough setting it is a little complicated. With my newfound power I pulled all 4 tires off the rims on one corner, and had to seal them to hold. Now the car's understeer is much more pronounced, and it is VERY easy to spin. I'm going to put spacers to tighten up the rear shocks, and try and make a new mount for the front. I just have a feeling that the Penguin mounts will be too weak to handle my punishment.

[Janders]

Here's some pics of my Scooby, the paint has about 20 cartwheels on it and the rims have REALLY taken a beating..

http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0005.JPG>[/IMG]
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0004.JPG>[/IMG]

http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0003.JPG>[/IMG]

**EDIT**
Thanks whacky

http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA004.JPG

[Whacky]

He Janders, you misspelled the word earthlink you wrote EARTLINK.

These links will work.

http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0003.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0004.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0005.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0007.JPG

[Jimmy33]

Hi

I found some nice suspention for the car. The Thunder Tiger shocks which bolt straight on and no mods needed. The have a smooth action and give more gound clearance.

I am currently waiting for tamiya to realse Colin Mcrae's Citroen on the TB01 chassis, as that will be my next buy!!

Tried the 3300 pack in my car over the weeked - it flew, I as driving it on a field out the back and it was lackingin power so I will be raiding the 21 turn motor for a 16 turn (the limit on my ESC). :D more jumps more power!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:rolleyes:

James

[Janders]

Tamiya has most of the WRC bodies, the 206, Focus, Subaru, EVO

I'm such a WRC addict, unfortunately I miss most of the races because of the time they're on.

Where did you order the Thunder Tiger shocks from, They would be $90 from towerfor 4(90% of my stuff comes from Tower, as the lhs never carries tamiya RC stuff, and it's overpriced)?
Bah.. I'm such a newbie:)

[Jimmy33]

No :eek:

Colin now drives a Citroen and took 2nd place in the Monte Carlo rally last weekend. A full Citroen 123 with Seb 1st and Carlos 2nd.

Tamiya, Kyosho and Thunder Tiger are the three makes my LHS stocks look around on the net and you will find it! ;)

What do you think on converting a 206 body to a Xsara?? :D
Or any other body?!

See you all later

James

[Janders]

I do the same with Makkinen and Gronholm, but I can tell them apart now. $90 for a shock upgrade is a bit much, and tower said the Tiger shock was the same as the Kyosho buggy shocks(i.e $45 a set of 2)

I'm still waiting for my lhs to get my Aluminum steering rack(it's been a week)

[CAMRY17]

Maybe you guys can help.

I love the TB01 I have it's the 2001WRX prototype with the full bearing kit included. My car is fitted with a 11x 2 peak hand wound motor, tg10 sway bars and losi xx4 shocks and springs. Great car, for 1 thing.

I had to change from the original drive shaft as it broke to the hop up one which includes plastic bever gears which fit on the drive shaft to the gear diff. I find after several runs the rear becomes melted and the geardiff pushes the back of the bevergear out making the car on front wheel drive.

Any suggestions as I cannot get a original one hear in Australia unless I buy a new car.

Cheers

[SteveK]

AAAGH! The Monte Carlo hasn't aired in the US: They went from nightly recap shows to a 2-hour block the Thursday after it's over. No real complaint there are 4 hours is a LOT of stuff to cover, especially on a night-by-night basis. The problem is I have to avoid the websites to keep from seeing the results.

Please be considerate of the Americans.

Now, will Tamiya be making a Citroen? That would be cool. I always wanted their Escort Cosworth, 206, and Corolla, as well as any FWD rally body, but most are discontinued. Bummer because the short wheelbase 206 and Corolla would work great for me.

[Jimmy33]

those must be the 1/8th bugy shocks (which are also good) but don't fit on the TB01!

Sorry - I will try and be more conciderate now!!! :D

[DIrTjUNkie]

nice tint job on the inner cover! :)

[SteveK]

Protoform makes a Xsara body. Not the most realistic, but much more so than a converted 206. The rear wing is all wrong, but change that and paint it properly and it could look convincing.

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/protoform/rally/1431/1431.jpg

http://www.rally-live.com/photos/2003/montecarlo/diapoa_124.jpg

The shape of the headlights has changed from the never-raced prototype Xsara T4 that the Protoform body is based on, but with some creative cutting, the stock headlight decals should suffice.

HPI's 406 Coupe, with some work on the headlights and trim decals, could make a convincing substitute, and I think it's available in 200mm:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/bodies/7326406.jpg

[Josh11886]

Not to get off topic, but I am dissapointed in Mitsubishi. The are competing on a limited scedual :( Well, I guess I will have to wait till next year.

[SteveK]

You can't really blame Mitsubishi: They got stuck with a larger, heavier, slower car due to changes in the production Lancer, and the company in general is going through some financial uncertainty and can't really afford to spend millions and millions on a rally team. Losing Marlboro wasn't a factor: They only got about $2 million (Only...), but in current rallying, that's maybe 3 cars for the top teams, or 4 for Hyundai or Skoda.

Mitsubishi will run a limited schedule this year, kinda surprised they didn't run in The Monte this year, since it's one of the biggest rallies of the year. 2004 and beyond will see them enter a new car, probably based on the Colt.

Peugeot is looking at a new car based on the 307, Ford will have a new car at some point, either an evolution of the Focus or something new, and Skoda is looking to go to the Golf-based Fabia. Skoda's engine is pretty powerful, but the Octavia is just to big to go fast, so the much smaller Fabia should be a great car.

[Janders]

What setups do you guys have?
I have the stock rear setup (except for the flipped mount )with spacers. I run Green Team Associated front buggy springs in the front, with the shocks mounted directly to the diff box. It handles a lot better than it did stock with less understeer. I think the stock rear camber is a little too negative, and I might address that tommorow, as my rear rally tires wear a lot more on the insides.

Oh.. and post your TB-01 pics if you have them.
I made a 'pluggable' cooling intake for my ESC/motor
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0036.JPG
some fun in the dirt(a repost from the rally forum)
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0039.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0037.JPG

[Cychalen]

Tha't's the dirtiest chassis I have ever seen. :eek: That's good because it is supposed to be like that.;)
Good idea about the intake, but where does the hot air go out? :confused:

[Janders]

There is a small foam plugged rectange on the centerline over the rear spurr, but I'm trying to run some 3/4" (inner) thin tubing from directly over the engine fins out the rear of the body. Right now my engine is untouchablly hot after one pack, and I'm thinking about a second fin set on the bottom, trimmed to run under the car, and cut holes for ventilation

**edit**
just got my 19T pinion, with the 58 spur, replaced the 16/61 and it runs much cooler now, and I can't tell if there's a decrease in acceleration, so that's good! I also just put on HPI rims/rally tires, as my scooby rims are cracked and bent.
My wheelbase is now wider too(spacers) 180mm front, 185 rear, about 3mm wider than stock.

[Janders]

C'mon I know you guys have some good action shots to post.

[Jimmy33]

So erm it seems to be rather quiet - so err... what electronics are you using, I just got the upgradeing bugg again, and the machine is now fitted with a hi torc digital servo (why I don't know but why not!) :D An electronic speed controler erm whats its name ... arr yess tomahawk reverse 16 turn limit, and I am running a 21 turn motor in it, I haven hads the time to change it to a 16t and it hasn't come in at the model shop. What elese, ern Set of Ripmax weels and tyres pre glued, 4 for £10 I think they are great, ok good quality but cheap!:p . A tamiya Focus 2002 body (to be replaced with a CEN Citroen Xsara soon) and a futaba reciever. thats it. I will post some pictures of the car in action soon I hope! :p

How about the citroen protoform sheel with a custem rear wing and focus or 206 (edited) front lights! :D Any thoughts?

[Janders]

I've got the Duratraxx intellispeed ESC which can handle 12T w/reverse/brakes. I'm running a tower hobbbies reciever/transmittet. I have a 15X2 Havok motor, ball bearings, Valvoline SynPower spray lubricates eveything. I just got done doing my heat ventilation

http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/EX3.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/EX1.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/EX2.JPG
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/EX4.JPG

[Janders]

I just got the aluminum steering part$$. I'm putting them on tommorow, and I finally mounted the RS4 rally shocks, a good .5cm more travel than the stockers. I just chewed up my HPI rally M compounds in 2 days, I need some harder tires, any suggestions?

[Jimmy33]

Hmm, I don't like this car any moe. Why you ask, well I will tell you. I have a large selection for R/C cars, ranging from a 1/5 to 1/8 to1/10 to 1/24/ and 1/48. The TB01 doesn't seem to brake. Apart from change the motor and bodyshell, there is nothing to do on this machine. It doesn't break. It is a rock, I had a closision with a Kyosho Pureten Alpha at my local track. The Alpha driver had to go home, I carried on racing. I had a big crash and roll during a race and was going to pack it in (I though smashed suspension) but the marshel put it back on the track and told me to get on with it. It doesn't break! So this is why I don't like there is nothing ot do on it, all I can do is race it. I cannot get any Tamiya hop-ups through my LHS or any hobby shop within 30miles! Ahh well the battery is charged lets go and race it again. See you all later!
Oh and anybody know if Tamiya will be bringing out a Citroen Xsara yet, just a though. I have found one from CEN but it is 196mm wide to too wide for the chassis. :rolleyes:
See you later :p

[Whacky]

He Jimmy33,

Cheapes solution:
you can put on 4 TG10 Long wheel axels, this makes your car 190mm and if this is to narrow for you put om some 3mm offset wheels. (but you need to buy 2 sets of TB01 rear Uprights so u can get 4 Long Hexadapters to fit the TG10 Long wheelaxels).
I had those and it works great.

More expensive Solution:
Or you can buy the Long Suspension arm set, this improves handeling and it makes your car 190mm, you can even add a 3mm spacer on each side if you have 0mm offset wheels.

PS The money you save on buying spareparts you can spend on HOPUPS:D :D :D

Greatz Whacky

[Janders]

is to just get smaller(length) nuts. I got a few mm of width by doing this, I also just put on my penguin rc shock towers, and thet are defineately beefier than I though they would be. I broke a dogbone, and ran front wheel drive for a day, until the added stress broke another dogbone. I ran it RWD for a while, allthough the burnouts were constant and without traction. I have a 13 turn and new dogbones/parts on order, and I can't wait to see how it handles with those.
*On a side note- the HPI RS4 rally shocks seem to operate a lot smoother than the Tamiya ones, they can mount on the penguin mounts, allthough I'm not sure about mounting to the stock points.
**edit**
you could also just run wheels with a large offset to increase width.

[Janders]

I think I've finally gotten the suspension just right! The car handles beautifully of loose gravel, it turns with the throttle, and only spins if you transfer weight very suddenly or brake very hard while turning...hello Captain Obvious! Here's the RS4 rally shocks on the penguin mounts on the front.
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0051.JPG
Also here's a closeup of the rear, the rear width measures at exactly 190mm(front is about 182mm stock), with the longer axles and wider hex spacers. As you can see I went back from the HPI rally tires(they're a very quick wear on asphalt gravel) and really can't say that the HPI's were much of an improvement
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0052.JPG
my new bodies(spare TB01, rain and dry underbody cover), and the MR4-tc
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/PANA0050.JPG

[SteveK]

From the old HPI forum, I found that the long-span suspension kit or RS4 Rally suspension parts will fit, and widen the car to 190mm. They also give more positive geometry for rough terrain and potentially more suspension options.

If you have a TL01, the RS4 parts will make it 200mm.

[Janders]

including many suspension arms that look like they might fit with some trimming, they would also be considerably lighter, as the TB-01 uses so many screws. As for the HPI shocks being better, that is for sure- you can actually watch the car and it absorbs a lot of the bumps that would make it jump with the stock Tamiyas. Of course all this probably comes at the cost of body roll and poorer hard surface cornering, but it is a rally car

[Janders]

Well I had some fun with my TB-01 today on the tank trails. I also have a little homebrewed movie.
first the movie:
TB-01-mp4 (http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/josh.mp4)
some air
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/air.jpeg
the HPI shocks travel...
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/susptravel.jpeg
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/turn.jpeg
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/offroad.jpeg
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/downhill.jpeg
ouch, didn't realize that would take up a whole page..

[Whacky]

He Janders,

Great movie, but the surfice you are racing on looks more like a moonlandscape. Is it not a little to ruff for the TB01?? because it looks more lake a terain for a bigfoot or Buggy.

Again great pics and movie, keep up the good work:D


Greatz Whacky

[Janders]

Thats what I love about it. I ran 7000Mah on rough stuff, and the only problem I had was a wheel nut that kept loosening and flying off. nothing broke at all. A few times I cartwheeled down a 45* 100 foot slope and I was sure the thing was totaled, but it just kept on going. I'm very impreesed after this 'shakedown' on all the parts. FWIW I think the stock shock towers and shocks are definitely the achilles heel of the TB-01, but $40 for HPI shocks and penguin mounts fixed that.

[Janders]

I've heard bad things about running the plastic diff gears, but how many people actually have had problems with them?

The reason I ask is I just got a spare TB01(mint condition) for parts fairly cheaply, and it came with the lightweight gear hopup for free, along with lightweight turnbuckles, ball shock mounts which will probably all transfer to my running car:)


oh, and here's a drifting/ice movie the nice weather in Texas let me make...
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/icerally.mp4

I need to be more careful about hitting/flinging rocks at my digicamcorder...

[Whacky]

I heard and read it to about the plastic gears.

It's like this, if you put your TB01 in these harshe conditions your chassis will flex and the front or rear bevelpinion will get closer/further away from the ringgear so gearmesh will be off.
Since plastic is soft it will eatup those gears!

You can try them if you got them, but take your metal gears and shaft with you just in case:D :D

PS nice video, to bad it was dark.

-Whacky

[Janders]

I made a .mp4, broke a wheel....5+ times
BX jumps= damage (http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/3wheel.mp4)

[Albertt]

Originally posted by SteveK
From the old HPI forum, I found that the long-span suspension kit or RS4 Rally suspension parts will fit, and widen the car to 190mm. They also give more positive geometry for rough terrain and potentially more suspension options.

If you have a TL01, the RS4 parts will make it 200mm.

Just noticed your post. Is this true? A friend of mine has an old RS4 Pro rotting away in his basement. From what I understand, the RS4 Rally was based off of the Pro...I'm going to give it a shot...thanks.

AL

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Janders
...As for the HPI shocks being better, that is for sure- you can actually watch the car and it absorbs a lot of the bumps that would make it jump with the stock Tamiyas...

I second that on the HPI shocks...used a set myself on my TB01...they are much smoother and give the suspension more travel. What spring and oil setup are you running?

Here are a couple of pics of the shocks:
http://images.cardomain.com/installs/217000-217999/217465_12_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/installs/217000-217999/217465_13_full.jpg

[Janders]

I'm running the HPI shocks on the penguin Carbon Fiber Mounts. The HPI's havethe stock Rally black springs and (40wt?) oil. I ran the shocks as I got them and they worked wonderfully so I didn't change the oil. I run the front shocks almost perpendicular to the ground, and the rear angled in at the furthest point towards the bulkhead. I had pics online, but I had to trash them to make rooom on my server for the last movie I posted. Let me know if you want any pics of my setup- it's great for REALLY rough terrain and jumping. I have made 4 movie running it- showing how well the suspension articulates, but the only one online is my latest(not edited as well as my last 3)
Rally Car Doing BMX jumps(3wheel) (http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/3wheel.mp4)

I just ran my car in the beach sand and sucked up some chunks into the motor:( My motor overheated, and blew a wind- along with destroying my ESC. Now I have to wait for a week + for parts from tower

[Josh11886]

How well does the TB01 run on pavement? I want the rally so I can run off road, but the only place to race near me is the parking lot of my LH. It looks like a simple shock and tire swap is all I would need. Any comments?

Thanks, Josh

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Josh11886
How well does the TB01 run on pavement? I want the rally so I can run off road, but the only place to race near me is the parking lot of my LH. It looks like a simple shock and tire swap is all I would need. Any comments?

Thanks, Josh

The TB01 does fine on pavement. You will have to tune it properly, heavy oil, stiff springs, and the appropriate tires.

[Jimmy33]

Good newsI am not selling my TB01 AND I got the Long axles - so I will be trying themwhen I can. I am however tonning down my RCs because of AS Levels in a month!:(

[Janders]

I have the long axles on the rear right now(195mm) and am putting the front ones on this weekend. It was definately more stable. The TB-o1 in full tub style is heavy, and not the best for onroad, but that's why it's so indestructable. With my Yokomo MR4TC in one hand and the TB-01 in the other you can feel a LOT of weight difference. My TB-01 witha 15T Havok was about almost as fast as the Yokomo wth a 19T.
I now run 13T's in both(or at least as soon as my package gets here:)).

[Jimmy33]

the new A levels which all of us UK students still ineducation have to take! an absolute pain. I am fitting the axils on now!:p

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Janders
I have the long axles on the rear right now(195mm) and am putting the front ones on this weekend. It was definately more stable. The TB-o1 in full tub style is heavy, and not the best for onroad, but that's why it's so indestructable. With my Yokomo MR4TC in one hand and the TB-01 in the other you can feel a LOT of weight difference. My TB-01 witha 15T Havok was about almost as fast as the Yokomo wth a 19T.
I now run 13T's in both(or at least as soon as my package gets here:)).

What do these long axles do for the TB01? Are they for use with the LSA kit or with the stock suspension arms? HOw do they differ from the stock axles? What's the part number?

Thanks
AL

[Janders]

They look and fit just like the stock axles(these are the axles, not the dogbones). The only difference is that they have consideably more thread, allowing you to use hex spacers to have a wider wheel base.

Check tower hobbies and search for TG10 rear axles for the part #

[Jimmy33]

are you sure, because i ordered the long axle set part no.
50808 or SP-808
but it is the TG10 Long Wheel Axle

[Janders]

all the stock TG10 rear axles are 'long'. Those are the right part numbers, and are on my TB-01.
They look just like the stock axles, but the metal is a little darker, allthough I'm not sure if it's a different compound, or just color. Buy some hex spacers(they're cheap) to widen it.

[Whacky]

Hi there,

For the TG10 long Wheel axels u will need the Hexadapters that come with the TL01/M03 Rear uprights!!!!!
Not only do they have more thread on them but the centerpart is longer also. Your TB01 offroad came with 2 of these if u saved them or else u will have to order 2 sets of Rear Uprights.

They only fit the stock arms. The LSA kit uses 1260 BB so they dont fit.


-Whacky.

[Janders]

uhh, can't delete thread posted 10 min ago.
can't use search.
can't use my 'real' email.
finally found the 'rally' thread again, now in
Vehicle Forums > Misc. Vehicles

I hope they straighten out the problems they have with this forum, especially the search function, it's getting to be a real PITA

[Albertt]

I ran my Tb01 on pavement this weekend. Those HPi street tires, lowered the chassis and body on the mounts. Lots of body roll on turns and kept scraping the front lip on the pavement. All in all, not as fun as running in dirt.

I'm not sure why I never noticed it before, but due to the location of the battery, and the soft springs, the car sits slanted. Anyone else notice this?

[Janders]

Do you mean the back sitting lower than the front-that's normal for the stock suspension.

[masTers]

Anyone running with the one-way diff? I love it! Well worth it!

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Janders
Do you mean the back sitting lower than the front-that's normal for the stock suspension.

Nope, I mean side to side. The right side, where the battery is, is lower. I have a Novak reciever, LRP ESC and a BB high torque servo. Basically the electronics don't weigh as much as the battery pack. I don't want to add weight to the left side...that would be counterproductive to performance. My only thought is to add a bit more preload to the springs on the right.

[Janders]

the easiest way would be to swap the left and right side shocks. My TB-01 sat level with the stock shocks, and still sits level with the softer HPI rally shocks(I just checked it). I have the kit steering servo and a duratraxx intellispeed ESC, with the reciever mounted on the centerline.

Try stiffening(preload w/ C-spacers) both sides.

[Janders]

I've come to the conclusion that to run the wider rear, a 200mm body is essential, so the parts list for the 183-195 upgrade is:
1.)TG-10 long rear axles
2.)5MM hex spacers X 4
1mm spacers can fit in addition, allthoughthe lug nuts are barely on, and require locktite if you
want to run the 197mm
3.)200mm body
4.)Wider wheels can be used (with a higher(?) offset)

http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/rccar/WRX2.JPG

BTW has anyone run the Alpha Rally tires?

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Janders
...allthoughthe lug nuts are barely on, and require locktite if you
want to run the 197mm...BTW has anyone run the Alpha Rally tires?

A freind of mine gave me some Kawada axle nuts...they are thinner and don't use nylon inserts for locking.

What are Alpha tires? I find the Tamiya block tires are good for most surfaces, while the HPI or Proline pins are better for harder dryer tracks.

[SteveK]

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc6369.jpg

Those are the Kyosho tires. I assume they are a little harder than the Tamiya tires, and clearly have an open design. And they are less than $5 a pair.

For wheel nuts, my local Sears Hardware has some unflanged 4mm nuts with nylon inserts, so you can just flip them over and have the insert facing the wheel.

[Janders]

4.79 for a pair of Alpha's, and they're backordered:(
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSE39&P=7

I agree about the Tamiya blocks as best for offroad, but they are $$. HPI's wear very quickly on anything but dirt.

[Papanoel]

Hey I've got a ford focus TB01 got it for 79 bucks new on ebay guy didn't list it as tb01 he listed as tl01 only i noticed hehe

anyway i'm getting 15T double motor and have no idea how to gear it any help?

Can't wait to run it with teh 3300 pack i'm getting. Any suggestions on the changing the suspension to deal with this power?

[TRF Drive Hard]

IMHO, i'd gear low... if your off roading the thing with that 15t, there's alot of "grinding" of the gears... i'd start with the stock gears and the suggested set up given... then try to go a tooth lower should be able to kick up dirt with a smaller pinion and use the next largest spur;)

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Papanoel
Hey I've got a ford focus TB01 got it for 79 bucks new on ebay guy didn't list it as tb01 he listed as tl01 only i noticed hehe

anyway i'm getting 15T double motor and have no idea how to gear it any help?

Can't wait to run it with teh 3300 pack i'm getting. Any suggestions on the changing the suspension to deal with this power?

I'd start off with the largest spur (62 or 64?) and a 20 or 21 tooth pinion.

The only thing I found need attention were the shocks. See my post above, I swapped on a set of HPI sport shocks. Otherwise, the TB01 is ready for some bashing.

[Cotharyus]

For my re-entry to the hobby I bought a TB-01 Impreza rally. Because I've messed with this stuff before, I went ahead and got ball bearings, and the integy bellcrank kit, drive shaft, and motor mount. The difficulty is the cover that goes over the motor mount, the horse shoe shaped piece over the rear of the chasis. It appears to be hanging on the spur gear, and if you manage to squeeze it on, it pinchesthe spur gear, securely locking the drive train. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem, or if it might be related to the motor mount or the drive shaft. I ran out of time to mess with it last night, but if I get a chance today, I'm going to take advantage of the flexablity of the motor mount to try the 55T spur gear with the 16T pinion and see if it still locks things up. Of course I'll look here for some advice before I get back into it. Thanks.

[Janders]

Cotharyus
-make sure the spur isn't on backwards. One time I rushed and put my car together and had the same problem. Also make sure the shaft isn't hitting something that keeps it from going into the reear diff. I noticed you said you had 'upgraded the shaft'. Make sure they put the hole for the spur retaining pin in the right place--try laying it next to the stock one.
If that is the problem, and you don't want to go back to stock, just take a dremel to the inside of the 'moon-shaped' cover and open it up a bit.

[powertrip]

I got the 04 pitch 82t gear and I don't know what pinion to run on it.. I have either a 15t or a P2K2 Pro.. i run both depending on who i'm playing with... Got any advice for the pinion gear size??

The LHS only had a 28-29 and i got that bad the motor gets hot like in 20 secs.... Please help!

what ratio should I be running?? I can probably figure out the pinion size from that.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by powertrip
I got the 04 pitch 82t gear and I don't know what pinion to run on it.. I have either a 15t or a P2K2 Pro.. i run both depending on who i'm playing with... Got any advice for the pinion gear size??

The LHS only had a 28-29 and i got that bad the motor gets hot like in 20 secs.... Please help!

what ratio should I be running?? I can probably figure out the pinion size from that.

You're going to need something less than a 21 tooth in my opinion.

[powertrip]

really???? cool... that would bring it closer to the stock ratio...

taking a look at this site

http://users.pandora.be/tamiya.belgium/tamiya.belgium/Gear%20ratio's.htm

this is more for the on road cars right???

My friend has the enzo tb01 and his shaft is different from the shaft of my Lancer, is the final ratio different because of this?

Is there anywhere i can find the internal ratio for Tamiya cars??

[Cotharyus]

I got that problem worked out (thanks Janders) with a combination of solutions. The gear was on right, and the shaft laid out correctly, but I did have to take the dremel to the half-moon shaped piece. Part of the problem as it turned out was that the integy shaft is just slightly too small in diameter. This let the spur gear wobble a little. That problem didn't become apparent until I'd started running the car, but of course we all know after you build a kit, you have to take it most of the way apart and fix something and put it back together again at least three times during the first pack, or you didn't do something right.

[Cotharyus]

Got another run in with the car this morning. Now I'm wondering about a bigger pinion. What's the gear pitch on the tb-01? TIA.

[Janders]

it's either .4 or .6 metric, which means that you have to get the tamiya spurs/pinions(at least I don't know anyone else who makes this odd size)

[SteveK]

It's probably .4, since .6 is probably too fine for bashing/rally duty. Robinson makes the .4 pinion gears (Same as my TL01, Pajero, and M03), but you are probably stuck with Tamiya spur gears.

[Cotharyus]

So you're telling me that they aren't something standard like a 48 pitch? Lets aproach this like this then if I have to order pinions from tamyia - I've got a Team Orion 21 turn double motor, lets say I want to use the 58T spur, what would be a good starting place for a pinion - I don't want to over heat things, but I want good top end. Nice low end wouldn't hurt anything either, you balance and all that, but I'll settle for a good starting point.

(btw, how far off would 48 pitch be from .4? Anyone?)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by SteveK
It's probably .4, since .6 is probably too fine for bashing/rally duty. Robinson makes the .4 pinion gears (Same as my TL01, Pajero, and M03), but you are probably stuck with Tamiya spur gears.

Dont you mean .4 is too fine? .4 is close to 64 pitch and .6 is close to 48 pitch;)

[Papanoel]

If i just run the stock gear ratio with my new 15 turn motor will it be bad? Whats the downside? Stock is 61T spur with 16T pinion?

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Papanoel
If i just run the stock gear ratio with my new 15 turn motor will it be bad? Whats the downside? Stock is 61T spur with 16T pinion?

Sounds a bit under for a 15 turn...I'd say a 18 tooth pinion with that 61 spur.

[SteveK]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Dont you mean .4 is too fine? .4 is close to 64 pitch and .6 is close to 48 pitch;)

Friggin' metric system.....

[Albertt]

Originally posted by SteveK
Friggin' metric system.....

Actually I love the metric system, except for when we have to buy pinions and spurs.

[powertrip]

Originally posted by Albertt
Actually I love the metric system, except for when we have to buy pinions and spurs.

The only reason we don't like metric is that the we use that frickin standard crap... L0L.. metric makes much more sense..

[Papanoel]

What if i change the spur???

Thanx for recomendations. ANy chance u can tell me wat increasing and drecreasing the pinion or spur does so i understand what i am doing here?
All about learning......


Thanx for everything!

[Janders]

I hate converting stardard stuff. Metric you can go from mm to liters, try converting inches to cups:)

Papanoel-

As for changing pinion/ spurs--it's all about the final gear ratio. Either geared low(torquey, burnouts, now high end), or high(top speed, low torque/low end power). A small pinion and large spur will give you a low gearing, a lager pinion, or smaller spur will gear it wider.
A stock TB-01rally has a 16Tpinion and 61T spur = 9.91 final drive(everytime 9.9 times the motor rotates=1 time the tire rotates(I think that's right))
16T------61T-----9.91------torque, not much top end speed

If for example you run a 16T pinion with a 55T spur it would give you more top end with less accelertaion
16T------58T----8.XXX-----less torque, more top end speed

or you could go crazy and
25T-----55T-----5.72-----crazy top end, if you have a motor that can get you up to speed

I don't think I explained very well if someone else wants to clarify

[masTers]

Guys just in case your wondering im running a rally tb-01, hop-uped to onroad spec. Im running a 19t pinion on a 58 tooth spur, with the Tamiya Sport-Tuned engine (freebie)

Other hop-ups include

Full Ball Bearings
Tamiya TB-01 One way diff
Ally drive shaft
Plastic gear ring
Tamiya 5 spoke racing rims (white)
Venom tires

Also i have an x-speed 13t double engine, but i not running that until i get my ESC back from hi-tech.

Steve

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Papanoel
What if i change the spur???

Thanx for recomendations. ANy chance u can tell me wat increasing and drecreasing the pinion or spur does so i understand what i am doing here?
All about learning......


Thanx for everything!

Changing the spur has the same effect as changing the pinion...

Here, read this:
http://www.pretoriamr.co.za/gear_ratios.htm

Unless you've put a TB Evo3 spur gear adapter on your TB01, you're stuck with using Tamiya TB01 spur gears.

[Janders]

for different motors for rally apllications. It seems like it's just hit or miss.

[SteveK]

I actually am liking the metric system for measurements for shock lengths and stuff: Much easier than fractions of an inch and more precise than tenths.

It's also handy for model building: In 1/24-25 scale, 1mm is close enough to 1", so doing mods and stuff is easy with it.

[<ans>]

I just finished building my lancer evo VII kit, I love it!:) its so fun. What hop ups are all of you running? and what websites are good for buying hop ups? I look on tower hobbies and there are only a few which are scarily expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks alot in advance.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by <ans>
I just finished building my lancer evo VII kit, I love it!:) its so fun. What hop ups are all of you running? and what websites are good for buying hop ups? I look on tower hobbies and there are only a few which are scarily expensive. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks alot in advance.

Welcome aboard <ans>, glad to have another TB01 guy/gal around here. Can't help you with online sites because I get great prices and service from my LHS, but I can tell you that the TB01 is great out of the box. Tower is expensive...i use their site only for price comparisons.

I upraded to HPI sport shocks, a TG10 front bumper, ball bearing supported streering bellcranks and bearing supported steering hubs on my TB01. The shocks were important in my opinion, for the sotck Tamiya CVAs are a bit leaky and don't offer as much travel. The HPI sport shocks are smoother and replacement parts (for rebuilds) are more readily available. I slapped on the TG10 bumper because it's longer and wider, offering better protection to the front suspension when you crash (something I tend to do quite a bit). As for the steering cmponents, I was on a ball bearing rampage that week...plus I liked the shiny aluminum parts...they aren't necessary for performance.

[<ans>]

hey, thanks for the help. ( I am a guy btw :p ) I'll just be running stock for now because im liveing over-seas, so parts are hard to get here for reasonable prices. I'll be in the states all summer so I'll stock up on parts then.

[Cotharyus]

Albert, I've got the ball bearing supported steering bellcrank as well. I was led to believe that the stock steering setup had a lot of give to it under high stress turning situations. I ordered the steering kit for the initial build since for me, the car going where I want it to go is the key to keeping it in one piece. Keeping it in one piece is the main reason I bought the TB-01 for my re-entry, I heard it was tough. Tough is good, considering my last car was a Frog that died a horrible death (cracked the frame end-over-ending). Anyhow, I also went ahead and got the aluminum motor mount, as I heard that the plastic one will get soft and allow the gears to come out of mesh if you have a hot motor. Anyone have any other really trick hopups? I like the idea of different shocks, especially if they might raise the back end a little and the whole car overall.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Cotharyus
Albert, I've got the ball bearing supported steering bellcrank as well. I was led to believe that the stock steering setup had a lot of give to it under high stress turning situations. I ordered the steering kit for the initial build since for me, the car going where I want it to go is the key to keeping it in one piece. Keeping it in one piece is the main reason I bought the TB-01 for my re-entry, I heard it was tough. Tough is good, considering my last car was a Frog that died a horrible death (cracked the frame end-over-ending). Anyhow, I also went ahead and got the aluminum motor mount, as I heard that the plastic one will get soft and allow the gears to come out of mesh if you have a hot motor. Anyone have any other really trick hopups? I like the idea of different shocks, especially if they might raise the back end a little and the whole car overall.

Oops...forgot to mention...I have the aluminum motor mount as well. For some reason, plastic motor mounts just seem wrong to me...so I guess I might have subconciously thought that it came stock.

Cotharyus:
About the steering bellcranks being more rigid...I don't doubt that. I'm not sure how much they aid in steering retention, but I just couldn't bear to not have bearings in the steering.

If you're going to upggrade your shocks, I would suggest that the most bang-for-your-buck purchase would be the HPI sport shocks. Yes, they are plastic, but they are very smooth and offer longer travel. I used the standard touring set for the front, and the longer RS4 Rally size shocks for the rear. It really helped the rear suspension, because travel is not limited by the steering hub carriers.

Finally, I was the same position as you were...re-entering the hobby after 6 year away from it. It seemed to have changed so much and since I was not as internet savvy at the time, I failed to do my research. I started off with a TL01, went to a used RS4Pro (thought about racing again), then to a TA04 and finally decided that pavement was no longer fun (missed roostertails)and got me the TB01. I didn't want to do real offroading anymore...so the TB01 suited me perfectly. BTW, I did try running the TA04 in the dirt...big mistake...chewed up a set of belts and wrecked the pulleys.

[Pavel]

Recently purchased a Evo 7 (got ball bearings :p) and finished building it. Gonna paint the drivers tonight and post more pictures.

So far here it is:

Bone stock, evo 7 body using Tamiya Gold colour and an unknown brand Metallic Black (graphitey colour), with a "body kit" (lower than your usual rally car :))

I'm going to be posting here from now on =)

Hi everyone!

Heres a few pics of the body...

[Pavel]

one more...

[Pavel]

last picture, kind of an ugly shot of the rear quarter...

[Janders]

when you take it off road. It'll cut down on your clearance and catch on the smaller rocks you would normally clear.
I love how cars look the first day you paint them, nothing that 10 mins of rock hopping won't take care of:)

[Qube]

Slightly off topic, I take it this is no where near the discussion for the TL-01B chassis? :D

[Janders]

.

[ZipDrive]

Pavel nice rims ... did u just paint the ones that came in the kit?

[Papanoel]

Hey I finished installing my new motor and for some reason the spur gear is too close the motor mount preventing the piece that covers the spur from going on. I've taken it apart like five times cant find the problem. Gonna rebuild it again i suppose tommorow with a fresh head...any thoughts?

[Qube]

Originally posted by Qube
Slightly off topic, I take it this is no where near the discussion for the TL-01B chassis? :D

Usually being an HPI *cough* supporter, I picked up a Baja King kit because it was staring back at me at my LHS, and it reminded me of my days fiddling with the Grasshopper... having a spare HPI TXT-2 radio lying around helps too :p

So shall I take this discussion and hope for a new thread?

[Pavel]

Yeah, the rims are the kit ones painted on the outside with the metallic black colour. unfortunately i ran out of paint so couldnt do the inside of the rim (hence the white rim interior that you see).

The ground effects ill trim down for offroad =) but i intend on running my car more on dirty lots, rather than pure offroad, so it might not be that much of a problem. the problem is that the gold paint, even though it is for lexan, very easily scratches off, so im scared that it will all chip off as soon as rocks hit it. ill try brush on some coat under the gold (cant spray it since i have clear headlights and windows and i dont want to mask them off again)...

finishing off the interior set now, doing a really basic and simple speaker install into it.. too bad my crappy mp3 player and headfones dont put enough volume out (you can hear it from a distance only if its absolutely silent in the room :p)


Btw, can anyone tell me what the life expectancy of these rally tires are? do they wear quickly?
and also i dont have inserts and no shop here has them so to get them i need to wear out some of my old radials that are on another car... are inserts essential?

thanks guys,

Pavel

[Cotharyus]

Pavel, the rally tires will do alright on dirt, but if you run in paved parking lots or something like that, it'll probly wear pretty bad on those tires. I got a set of HPI radials and an extra set of rims for my TB-01 just for running on pavement. Save the rally tires for baseball diamonds. :D

[Pavel]

thanks, ill use radials, problem is my plastic hexes are stuck inside the rims :p i need to get new ones =) ill probably go out and buy some aluminium ones (the tamiya alum. ones cost only like 5 bucks).

I have some 31mm wide radials i want to use in the rear :D

Pavel

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Qube
Usually being an HPI *cough* supporter, I picked up a Baja King kit because it was staring back at me at my LHS, and it reminded me of my days fiddling with the Grasshopper... having a spare HPI TXT-2 radio lying around helps too :p

So shall I take this discussion and hope for a new thread?

Hehe...try this thread:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=121455

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Pavel
last picture, kind of an ugly shot of the rear quarter...

If you're going to run it on smoother surfaces, consider lowering the body on the mounts...it'll get rid of that wheel well gap.

[Pavel]

albert, i probably will do that, as i have mounted radials now and the gap is even greater..

however, my left rear wheel well rubs against the wheel a bit for some reason... i already trimmed it away until the doorline, and i still get rubbing whenever there is any suspension action.

Should i try putting 1cm cubed foam spacers on the inner body in that area to keep the body fender a bit further out, as the main reason that its rubbing on the left is that it goes in more than on the right.

i.e.:

|
| - body
|
\
\
__\x_
| |
| |
| - wheel
| |
|_ |__
/
/
|
|

the body rubs at point x. ill try take some pictures soon to show you better. its really bugging me as i hate it when my wheels rub (even potentially :p) against the body... im gonna try the spacer idea later

im going to leave the front spoiler btw, and cut away a bit from the side skirts and quite a bit from the rear skirt..

Thanks everyone,

Pavel

[masTers]

Guys, is anyone running the .04 pitch spur and pinion gears? What does it do exactly? To get a rough idea of what im running check out http://www.iinet.net.au/~rmasters.

Steve

Please help me out asap!

[Pavel]

Had a hard time with wheels rubbing hubs and the body lately, but have figured it all out

Right now im running radials on all 4s, 26mm up front and wide 31mm in the rear. should give me some good traction...

I was also working on the inner body, and i gotta finish off some of the details (painting) but its almost finished right now. I also installed some "speakers", but theyre to high-pitched for my taste and dont reflect any bass so ill have to get larger diameter ones later on... i have an interesting idea how to hook up an audio source to the car, but i wont reveal it until i finish checking if it will work :p

Until now, heres a few pictures:

First off is the inner body set with the drivers (and yes i know that ENKEI dont make helmets, i just wanted a decal for the helmets :p)

[Pavel]

Here is the speakers installed in that box thing behind the drivers.

This took absolutely no skill, and the total cost was 1 CYP, which is equal to about $1.83 =) speakers are superglued, with a mesh made out of... a bag thing in which you buy fruit :p

[masTers]

Sorry guys, my site is http://www.iinet.net.au/~rmasters/

Sorry and Thanks

Steve

[masTers]

Originally posted by Papanoel
Hey I finished installing my new motor and for some reason the spur gear is too close the motor mount preventing the piece that covers the spur from going on. I've taken it apart like five times cant find the problem. Gonna rebuild it again i suppose tommorow with a fresh head...any thoughts?

Dude its on Backwards! Just flip it over, I did the same thing like 5 times as well, hahah!

Steve

[Papanoel]

Yeah i realized it was on backwards when i took it apart for the 6th time. :D

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Pavel
...First off is the inner body set with the drivers (and yes i know that ENKEI dont make helmets, i just wanted a decal for the helmets :p)

Nice job on the driver/co-driver. I wish I had the time to paint mine.

Look around for someone who has an Arai sticker...then make helmets.

[<ans>]

Originally posted by Papanoel
Yeah i realized it was on backwards when i took it apart for the 6th time. :D

I did the same thing, it was really starting to get to me, then when I did get it right, the pin, that the spur is held on, by kept falling out after I bolted on the rear gear box. :p:p I must have taken it apart 5 times befor I got it right.

[Papanoel]

What can i do to keep the temperature of my esc/motor down?

I'm running the stock gearing 16/61 with 15 turn double and rooster esc. The thing gets hot real hot after one pack. Anything I can do?

[Pavel]

Well, first of all, let your car cool between runs so you dont completely blow up the car :p

Now as for things you can buy...

well your gearing was originally meant for a silver can, youre running a mild-hot modified, so i always thought you would have to gear for a higher ratio... but youre already running the highest ratio, so i guess all thats left for you is to get an aluminium motor mount. Aside from cooling it will make your car look cool =)

Enjoy

Pavel

[Janders]

1st of course use a heat sink. 2nd a cooling fan might help you out:
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/rccar/PANA0075.JPG

I run it off the servo. I ran a 15T on my rally, and it got very hot, but never overheated. I have to run the cooling fan- now that I have a 13T in there.

**BTW I still have the stock plastic motor mount, and it worked fine with the 15T, allthough I may have to get the Aluminum one, as my 13T likes to melt stuff

[Cotharyus]

I'm working on making my TB-01 more "off roadable". That means a little higher, and a little better traction than the stock tires. I'm thinking something almost like a buggy conversion here. I've gotten the spacers out of the bottom of the rear shocks, that leveled things out a little, and then I've made some spacers for the springs that push them down further, making them fully extend, and stiffening the suspension. Now I want to look at wheels and tires. I want something with a larger diameter, maybe a little wider, but not too much, that will work on the TB-01 hubs. I also wouldn't mind if anyone could come up with a body that would get the front and rear tires out from under the outside body (again, more like a buggy) so that there is less chance of debries ending up inside the car. I'll see if I can't get some pictures of things together as the project progresses.

[Pavel]

Hey!

That would kind of defeat the point of a RALLY car, wouldnt it? :D maybe you should try buying a buggy or a stadium truck, theyve got everything you're looking for =)

As for tires/wheels, try putting HPI's super nitro wheels with super nitro rally tires... i dont have access to HPI stuff here in cyprus so i cant try it, but if it works it would be really good and look cool =) only problem i see is hubs might rub a little or rear wheels may rub against the chassis or inner body, in which case a little dremel work is all thats needed...

anyway, i wont go on about this as i havent tried it and probably wont anytime soon. but if you do decide to give it a shot, please let us know how it goes! =)

I'm gonna try running my TB-01 on road soon, with stock setup, since i also want rallying ability... what i tried so far, it performed VERY well... body roll was there on road, but it was SO stable, i couldnt break traction even under braking, turning, accelerating, whatever! i did my best to drift and my friend also tried and we couldnt =)

Have fun

Pavel

[Cotharyus]

Pavel - I would buy a buggy or stadium truck if there was one that I liked. I like staft drive, 4wd, and single motors. The TB-01 has that. Now down to the rat killing..

Rally with this thing is outstanding. I've tweeked it a little for that. In my opinion, once I get my Reedy KR it'll be untouchable if I can drive it ;) - next, on road. My rally setup works very well on road, just change tires. For the heavy off road, the spring spacers are as simple to insert or remove as the little spacer things you put on the rear shocks when you build the car according to the directions. So basicly a shock adjustment and a tire change is all I need to make to change surfaces. I can go backyard, baseball diamond, or parking lot in about 5 minutes. All I hope to acomplish with the buggy style body for off road is keeping more dirt out of the controls.

[Aluma]

Do the TL01b's long offroad arms fit the TB01? if so, we could make a 4wd buggy by adding that and longer shocks plus the 2.2 wheels from a XXX-4 or something of the sort. maybe offset rear or front wheels from a B4. then just have to mod a buggy body for the TB01 chassis. :D

[Janders]

259mm wide TB-01 with the stock tires?
I just test fit the TL01B rear arms from my wild dagger on the TB-01. They fit without modification.
If you can get the parts trees for a WD with the arms and hub carriers you could make one wide mamma-jamma. With the wild dagger offsets/tires it would be over 310mm
here's a pic to give an idea of how wide it could be
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/rccar/wild1.JPG

[Aluma]

DUDE!!! how coool!!!! I bet that's what Tamiya is doing right now... making a body to fit a TB01 with those super long arms... :D Its really neat to watch my rally launch off the table top at my track always parallel to the ground. eventhough it doesnt usually land right cuz its soo low, but now... :D i'm getting those arms!!! thanks!

[Janders]

naturally longer bellcranks and driveshafts will be needed. Wild Dagger parts tree B and C will probably ahve most of what you need

Driveshafts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJ58

B(hub carriers:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGL55

C(has the actual arms):
couldn't find it on tower:(

[Aluma]

thanks janders, but i looked everywhere for the Cparts and came up empty. I guess they figured you'd NEVER break an arm on one of those things.. :D might have to dish out 90 bones to buy a baja champ or king just to get them arms. :P

[Janders]

Aluma-
This may help you out:
C parts code 0005688

[Janders]

http://www.goldstarstockists.com/tamiyaparts/tpx/7digits.htm

seven pounds(12-15 $)

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=1034

Aluminum arms for $30(not yet available)

[Aluma]

thanks Janders! I really appreciate all the work you did to find those arms...but i was discussing this on another thread with someone else and he said that it wouldnt work very well to make the tB01 into an offroad buggy cuz of the gearing and the tire size or something...which is kinda funny cuz tamiya made the TL01 into that baja champ... ? :P I dunno now... maybe I'll try it anyway someday. :D once I sell or trade one of my TB01's for a baja champ/king.

[Jimmy33]

sorry bit late the the conversation (again :rolleyes: ) but with my TB01 I have put the standard wheel safts back in and mounted some Stadium Raider wheels and tires on. This igves the car a 200mm width To top this of I used a dare I say it kyosho for escort body because of its width with wider arches and placed that on teh chassis. It looks a treat and runs well of road as well. I will post pics this weekend! :D :cool:

[Jimmy33]

here are some pics with the body on I ahve lost the ones without the body



http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/117061/Photos2028.jpg

[Jimmy33]

and another showing the ground clearance....

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/117061/Photos2029.jpg

[Janders]

your pics didn't show up.

[Jimmy33]

odd - here is (i think) a link to them.....


http://www.villagephotos.com/viewpubimage.asp?id_=2968489


and

http://www.villagephotos.com/viewpubimage.asp?id_=2968488

[Cotharyus]

Nice Jimmy33 - I was going to do something like that, but then I got my hands on a Reedy Kr 14x2. I've gone the other direction and lowered the car, stiffened up the suspension, put some street tires on it, and moved the top shock mount point to the inside hole on the stock shock towers. It's scary fast, but I don't have any good idea of how fast because I'm waiting on a replacement dogbone for one that snapped during some unplanned aerobatics. I'll have to see if I can get a couple pictures.

[Cotharyus]

Ok - I need dogbones. If you point me to tower, please don't point me to this:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGH52&P=X

I have two sets of these because that's what they list as the replacement, but its not it. Any other options?

[Janders]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=50883&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

They aren't plastic ended like the stock ones, and fit fine. I have them on my car

[Cotharyus]

Outstanding Janders, thank you. I can return the two sets of the ones that don't work, get two sets of those, and still have enough credit to get a front shock tower for my HPI NMT.

[DIrTjUNkie]

yeah, looks good I was going to try that out a while back......no really I was.. :)

[Cotharyus]

Bear with me for a minute while we get into gearing again. I have one motor that I run in my car that doesn't seem to get too hot, and thats a Kr 14x2. Everything else I've run in it seems to get too hot. The Kr I run 17t pinion and 55t spur, which according to my calculations, allowing for the diff drive ratio (which I've got figured to be about 2.60:1) that gives me an 8.41:1 final. I've also run an orion 21 turn core that ran hot running an 18t pinion on a 55t spur, so we'll leave that alone. Here's the shocker. I've got an MVP stock motor that I'm running a 21t pinion on the 55t spur (6.80 final) and it seems to run impossibly hot. I've got bearings in the car everywhere, and it rolls just as free as you please, so I don't think the drive train is binding. Can anyone offer a suggestion as to why this thing is being so hard to gear everything but the Kr? (do I just need to go get more Kr's?)

[TRF Drive Hard]

I believe it might be that the 2 motors that you used are high RPM types... this requires an open road to unload such high RPMs... the KR you have is more like torque... a 14x2 is sure enough to deliver great amounts of torque which is good for cars that are rallying... and this is why the motor doesnt heat up fast... hope that made sense;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Plus too have you tried to gear down? or install a larger spur?

[Cotharyus]

Installling a larger spur is out - if you're really curious, I'll explain - I am going to try a smaller pinion, but I had honestly hoped that a good stock motor would do better in this car than this one has. The car is actually being run on road, lowered and with the wheels pushed out just a little - it's sick fast, and if you can drive a 4wd high performance car, you can smoke some track with this thing. You should have seen the last guy I raced with it one on one through this little road course in a parking lot. I thought he was going die...

[dugrant153]

Hey all,
I'm about to get a TB01 NSX.
I was wondering what parts I need to make it rally-able (because I heard of gears stripping and what not because they were lighter and such).

I'm looking at the parts lists from Tamiya but it's really confusing. Can someone help me?

Basically I just need to know what parts I can keep and what parts I can replace. Something about 0.4 and 0.6 geraing??

[jiggen5354]

dugrant153

just get a tb-01 with either a Lancer evo 6 or 7, subaru impreza wrc german champion or arai editon, ford focus body. these cars are marketed as rally cars so the gears are all steel.

the enzo and the nsx tb-01 have plastic gears which are supposedly for onroad. both the on road and off road TB's come with .6 gears. the .4 gears are better suited for the onroads who want a taller gear ratio

[Cychalen]

The road version (Raybrig NSX 2000 and Enzo) is faster and lighter because it comes with lightweight components. The rally version (58286 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII WRC, 58281 Ford Focus WRC 2001, 58271 Subaru Impreza WRC 2001 Prototype, etc.) is better protected from dirt. They come with the upper cover and dustproof sponge.
If you are getting the road version, get the new Enzo. Bumpers and full ball bearings are included in the kit. I have the NSX and I had to buy them separately.
If you are getting the rally version, get one of the kits that is mentioned above. They come with full ball bearings, the rest (for example 58257 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI WRC) do not come with ball bearings.

[dugrant153]

Do the lightweight components strip easier?
I've read that in a few comments, but some other people say they have no problem at all.

Should I just get the dustproof cover (and ballbearings, etc.) and not worry about the stripping gears and what not?

[Jimmy33]

hello there - I have finnal found the perfect place for my TB01 - it is basically the end a a field which the farmer has jsut left as it is in fertile and VERY dustry so willl be getting down there mayber tomorrow to take some action shots of my car in err action! :D

I hope I showed you my new subaru shelll after I redid the re wing becuase after tomorrow it wont look nearly asw good. What i was also thinking of doing is buying that bit of land and making a 1/10/ 1/8th off road rally track - just a crazy though but what would I need apart from a rostum and a trak desgning + parking etc. :cool:

[dugrant153]

Anyone know WHERE to get the dustproof cover?
I've tried looking up a ton of places for it, but it seems that only a few stores in the UK can get it in.

Please help. OR... give me hints on how to make my own ;) hehehe

[nomad]

hi
i just built my tb-01 and i love it....eventhough i only got to drive it in 3WD :(
the reason is the front-right dogbone keeps popping out after about 30 seconds of driving
has anyone else expirienced this?

[DIrTjUNkie]

that seems kinda strange? take apart the side that does not come out and double check to see that the parts are the same. read manual and double check as well. one more thing to check is the exponential (dunno if spelled right) when turning make sure it has the same throw steering from left to right. oh yeah just for tish and giggles match up all dogbones. you never know....

my .02

[nomad]

lol i am so stupid,i disassembled the front suspension to fix something and then forgot to put a screw in, when u told me to check the steering i looked and in about 5 seconds,poof fixed :P anw thx!
btw this is out of topic right now but i dont wanna start a thread in the electronics forumm, the heatsink for my esc came with some sticky stuff to stick in on,but it doesnt work too well so i was wondering what else i could use to stick it on,what about CA glue? will that emit fumes or something (whoooa maaan :D )

[DIrTjUNkie]

The sticky stuff is double stick tape, I wouldnt rec. the glue, but I have seen people do it.

[dugrant153]

I have the same problem. I dunno why, but I got grinding and then I realized that the shaft pops loose.

One reason could be if you set your car at a high ride height. it makes the dog bones a little loose.
Then making your car turn all the way left or right will loosen it also.

[Cychalen]

Insert some O-ring in the gearbox joint to prevent the drive shaft from shifting into it too much. This will prevent it from popping out.

[nomad]

i can not believe this, after 3 days of running it with the stock motor,in light gravel and tarmac,my 10 turn limit futaba MC400CR esc fries... :mad:
it lost forward throttle but everything else works,i touched it right after i realised it and it was just kinda warm,so i go in and reprogram it....nope,and what's weird is that the forward(green) led lights up when i press forward :(

[nomad]

can anyone scan the MSC installation instructions for me? i kinda lost them (oops)

[Janders]

it should be under warranty if it's new. If you haven't sent in the warranty card, do it now, and then mail in your ESC after about a week or two. Unless something shorted out in the motor, or it got water in it , it shouldn't have fried on a stock motor. Have you tested the motor? If you know the motor is good-I'd just try reprogramming the ESC.

[nomad]

im shure its the esc i hooked the msc up and it worked fine forward and reverse, i reprogrammed the esc twice still no forward! ok i'm sending the esc out as soon as possible but i HAVE to run it! does anyone at least have a pic of the car with the msc installed??

[jhigga15]

Hey, I just got a TB-01 off ebay and I love it so far. I have taken some good tips from this forum. My first question has any ont tried running SHI rall shocks in the back and the stock Rear shocks in the Front? My second Question is what inserts do you guys normally use.

I am running a Trinity Monster HP Pro stock engine, it's good but it gets hot quickly. Also Ginshun, great tip about flipping the rear shock tower.

[nomad]

ok i sent the esc out and bought another one, i also ordered a 16T corally motor, but i forgot to order pinions, so i'll be running the stock pinion with the 58T spur because i stripped the stock one. my question is, will that gearing be good for decent speed and good runtime?

[ShinHed]

Ok, I posted about a TB Evolution converted to an offroad buggy, and it got deleted. ***? Is it that off topic? Is the Evo and TB01 family that different (<---Sarcasm, so don't try to tell me they are different because, I own them all and I know.)? Can you not learn something that may benefit you?

Whoever deleted (or reported) me, http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/thefinger_red.gif

[sipaboy]

What springs do prople use in the tb-01 doing tcs racing? This weekend will be my first race for the tb-01. Am running blue front and yellow rears on the plastic oil shock. Any advise would help. Also gearing on a Pro stock motor and stcok silver can mabuchi? Thanks

[Cotharyus]

I broke a front body mount on my TB-01 - can someone point me (a link would be helpful) to a replacement body mount on tower? I checked the parts superstore listing for the TB01, but didn't list a body mount any where.

[TORQUER]

Here’s series of pics of my 58257 kit that I won off of eBay last month for next to nothing and finally got it up and running. Kick back and tune your imagination on… :D

The year…1999; The car…Mitsubishi Lancer EvolutionVI; The place…Texas; The event…Never aired! (remember, this is in your imagination) ;D

The start of the rally was great! Makinen and co-driver Mannisenmaki were leading the event in every section! It was not until the last leg that the team started to run into trouble!

This series of photos, you can see clearly that Makinen was laying on the power into a gravel left-hand drift. The first sign of problems began when Makinen stayed on the power and lifted the front tires…
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally9.jpg

…at this time, the front end finally dug in…
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally6.jpg

…which started to bring the rear end around…
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally7.jpg

…and resulted into an uncontrollable spin! :o
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally4.jpg

Makinen and Mannisenmaki quickly recovered and regained their composure and were on their way through the tundra and over the bridge…
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally3.jpg

[TORQUER]

The trouble did not end there, however! Another left-hand sweeper got the best of these drivers. This time it was on a dusty loamy road with only a few rocks! The real blame goes to the shear power breathing through the Diamond Star hulk! Entering the turn started smooth…
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally2.jpg

…then the rear started to unload…
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally.jpg

…which resulted in another uncontrollable spin… :o
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Rally10.jpg

After getting the car turned around, Makinen and Mannisenmaki got held up by a rally fan… :-/
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//LondonRally.jpg

After Makinen and Mannisenmaki gave the young spectator their autograph, they went on to win the event here in Texas!!! 8)

Hope you all enjoyed that…! ;D


Here are a few links to some “motion” pictures that turned out pretty cool. There all natural and unedited…
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Motion.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Motion2.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//Motion3.jpg


-Will

[Janders]

I have the same as my 'nice' body along with a few WRX's as basher bodies : ). I leave the drivers out though for weight/cooling purposes.
nice pics.

[Jimmy33]

surely if you leave the drivers out you get rid of the the driver errors! :D

[DJF1]

Hi all, I'm getting ready to built my TB01 Ford Focus and I want to make it stronger from the get go. Mainly interested in suspension parts etc so i do not have to built and then take apart in order to "upgrade". Besides Tower Hobbies optional accessories do you know of another site that sells hop ups from other brands than Tamiya? For example for my F201 there are tons of hop ups from other companies like 3racing etc...
Finally is it confirmed that HPI hoped up suspension for the RS4 fits the TB01???

TIA

[TORQUER]

Hi DJF1: I'm new to the TB01 as well. The biggest problem that I have noticed on this kit is the steering slop... There is a ton of it! Tamiya sells an upgrade steering kit, but I'm wondering if it's worth the $35? Other than the steering issue, I am quite pleased with the rest of the car...

-Will

[dugrant153]

TORQUER,

THOSE PICS ARE AWESOME!!! :eek: :eek:

DANG! If I didn't see that pic of the "rally fan", I would've thought it was real for a sec ...

But then again I own a TB01 setup for rally .... so I kinda could tell :P

But yeah...

WHOA!!!! :eek: :eek:
:D

[TORQUER]

Hey thanks!!! :) Glad that you all enjoy the pictures. :D I was even shocked to see how they turned out! :eek:

A little update... Took her out again to test out a new servo... :cool:
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//LooseTire2.jpg

...when a wheel flew off while coming around the corner. The car spun out and the wheel went rolling by... :eek:
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//LooseTire.jpg
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//LooseTire3.jpg

...the hunt was then on for the wheel nut. I didn't think that I would find it but I had to at least give it a shot! Well, to my suprise, I found it! Do you see it...? :p
http://photos.imageevent.com/torquer/evolutionvi//LooseTire4.jpg

-Will

[TRI-TURBO]

Whoa.....that is one HUGE babby.........o...wate a sec.. ;) :D

those are amazing pics! what Digi-Cam are you using??

[TORQUER]

Hey TRI-TURBO. Glad you like the pics!!! :D The camera is my trusty old Olympus D-370 with 1.3 MegaPix... I've taken a ton of pics over the past few years with it.

-Will

[Janders]

DJF1-
The HPI rally shocks fit perfectly and have a little more travel, definitely an improvement in handling on rough terrain

TORQUER-
I have the TG-10 aluminum steerin setup and it did reduce steering slop, although on rough surfaces I'm not sure you'd really notice it with all the bouncing around. BTW- I lost wheels frequently and a tad bit of loctite or a *tiny* drop of superglue keeps the lugnut from slipping off

[TORQUER]

Thanks for the heads up Janders! Yeah, I figured that the steering kit would not make any improvement offroad, but I sure notice the slop on the concrete... I think that I'll go ahead and give the kit a try.

Thanks,

-Will

[Janders]

Wow, I've had problems with my 13TOrion rush getting so hot it was desoldering the motor leads. Today it finally got so hot the endbell melted and detachee...I think my next motor will be an overgeared Mag Mayhem

[TORQUER]

Bet that was wild to see... Yeah, I don't think that the designers of the TB01 had cooling in mind. The motor is very well tucked into the chassis... I'd be a bit weary to put such a "hot" mod motor into one. Good thing that you didn't melt the plastic motor mount...or have you checked it yet...?! :p

-Will

[Janders]

I have gotten many motors hot enough to melt endbells and desolder leads, however the plastic Tamiya used on the motor mounts is incredible. ANybody that says the got an aluminum motor mount for fear of melting the stock one is full of it. I ran it on a 19T today and it was entirely too slow. I may try a 15T and see how that does...

[Doomed]

Trying to decide which TB01 Rally to get.

Does the Tamiya (TB-01) SUBARU IMPREZA German Rally Champion '99 come with the compete set of ball bearing? It looks like there is a mix of bearings and plastic?

[Janders]

No, it does not come with a full set of bearings..mostly metal and plastic bushings...it may have a couple of bearings...but not many

[Doomed]

Cool, thanks Janders. Anyone here have the German Rally Champion '99?

[Janders]

The stock body got trashed making movies, althought I got a nice HPI 200mm body, and an excellent EVO Tamiya Body for it.

[Doomed]

Good to know I have a wide choice of bodys! I guess I was asking to see if there were any differences between the three or so styles of this car that would sway my decsion.

Thanks again Janders!

[Janders]

I'm not sure, but check their site. I'm not a big fan of the focus body, but included bearings wqill save you $15-$20

[Pavel]

TORQUER, how do you take those pics? they look great...

Do you get down and ask someone to drive past and just click when it's there, or do you follow it? etc.

[TORQUER]

Pavel: Glad you like the pictures. For taking clear shots, you need to follow the car. If you wait for the car to go by or don’t pan at the same rate, the subject will be blurred or will have a ghost image (depending on the shutter speed).

What I normally do is run the cars around, bashing and having fun and keeping an eye out for where the best times to capture a shot would be. Then I’ll grab the camera for some staged shots. The luxury of using a digital camera is that you can drive while watching through the view screen. For shots that are eyelevel with the car, I’d hold the camera down next to the ground with my thumb on the shutter button and drive using a pistol grip transmitter in the other hand (steering using my thumb). Then just pan with the car and shoot! The key is timing as well. You need to be familiar with the cameras lag time (the time from when you press the shutter button, to when the processor captures the shot). All digital cameras have lag time and when you get this timing down it all becomes a lot easier. I capture most of my shots on the first try, but sometimes it can take two or three attempts.

I really enjoy taking pictures of RCs and am planning on getting the Fuji s5000z with a 10x optical zoom and start hitting the local tracks and messing around with photography. If that goes well, then I have my sights set on a Canon 10D Digital SLR (my dream machine).

Here is a link to my photo album if you would like to see some other RC pictures and more… My album (http://imageevent.com/torquer)

Please feel free to email if you have any more questions about taking pictures…

-Will

[Doomed]

O.K. I decided on the Ford Focus version of the bunch. Coming today. Mainly because it comes with full bearing and its $10 cheaper then the German '99. I am going to take the Novak 5800 brushless out of my Baja King and run it in the Focus. Should be interesting. Anyone else running a brushless in their Rally?

[Janders]

Although with a 13T motor there is NO WAY I would need more power for rallying. I have top end, and awesome torque. I'd like to see the top end with it geared as wide as possible. : )

[Doomed]

Got the Focus yesterday at 7pm and didn't stop until 2am but its complete! Now off to LHS for some paint. Should have the first run friday night. This thing is heavier then I thought it would be. I am guessing the weight is from the steel diff and drive shaft. Might not be as fast as I thought it would be with the brushless.

[Janders]

compared to any TC. That's why they are so awesome for rallying, they are simply tough and have a lot of inertia(makes them predictable). I have a Yokomo MR4-TC, and compared to my TB-01 a 19T in it runs about the same speed as a 15T in the rally

[Doomed]

Took it for a spin last night... literally. This thing is crazy quick. Not as fast top end wise as my Baja King but that is geared for top speed. This thing explodes off the line and easily four wheel drifts at will(on tarmac). Very fun! Need to finds some dirt. Not all is well though. I am getting a little gear "cogging" with the brushless, so I need to search the million brushless posts for some one with a setup close to mine. Unless someone has an idea here?

[SteveK]

Can somebody with both a TB01 and TL01 do me a favor and see if a trimmed body will fit both chassis without any mods? I might be painting a body for a guy with a TB01 and I only have a TL01 to use for trimming and mounting (I doubt he wants to ship me his car as well).

[Jimmy33]

they should do - i have both and am constantly chnaging my bodies between the two chassis and i think for teh most part he holes are in the same place for most bodies - but dont quote me on that. If you need more help go the tamiay webside and the wheel base and width should be basically the same for the two chassis :D

Winter comming time go get the old TB01 out again for christmas - could do with a new body as i have got bored of the subaru!

[Car-la]

hi all.....i've got a few questions and you all seem to be the most responsive group on TB01 information.....

bear with me as i spout this for the 10th time (some of the folks at other boards weren't helpful)...but some how i know you guys, and girls (i seem to be the only one though) can help me out.....

i've been bitten, and very hard, by the rally bug.....how hard? i just picked up about $120 worth of rally reviews from Duke....

the skilled drivers, the courses, the close times and spectacular crashes....why this hasn't caught on here in the states is beyond me....but it makes NASCAR and anything on pavement about as fun as watching ice cubes melt in the freezer....

ok....so i was going to get one of the RTR cars from Tamiya but was swayed to the TB01 after reading this entire thread......even though there seem to be some ground clearance issues....

which brings me to my first question...with the stock rally block tires...what is the ground clearance?

the Tamiya site lists 24mm but but doesn't really say how that's measured and from looking at this photo...

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/tb01/images/58281/large_5.jpg

if the tire diameter is 69mm...half of that (to get how high the axle is from the ground) is 34.5mm.

but in the photo the body looks to sit well below the level of the axle....

also....if it's possible to get that in metric.....

and on to the second question....

i've got 1 acre of land as part of the lot that my house sits on and i want to make a track.....but not some big patch of dirt with pipes and plastic like in teh magazines....something more realistic to the type of courses in Finland....so no gigantic jumps...if there are..they will have the smoothest transitions so the car doesn't get damaged.....and since it's mostly grass a few rolls here and there with the lawn mower set at the lowest setting and then a re-trim with the weed wacker should get it pretty close.....this is 100% dirt...and not a single stone anywhere.....one straight section will cover about 36 meters by 4 meters....and the main area is about 20 metes by 20 meters....so it' s kinda "P" shaped

so the question is....i'm not interested in speed. handling is what i'm hooked on....so racing gearing and hitting 30 isn't my bag.....i want acceleration.....this track will have lots of corners and hairpins but even the straits will be off camber a bit since there is a few small hills i'll build up to achieve that......ok....so.....if i get the TB01 and run it stock...at least for the first few months....is it going to hold up for what i want or will i run into overheating, melted gears, or long for more suspension?

also....i notice that the paint jobs were mentioned....is it possible to paint teh body from teh inside and then apply the decals on the outside...so that in a crash...only the decals get damaged?

second to last....in a year's time...how hard will it be to get parts of this car...i see that Tamiya has released a TB02?

and lastly....keep in mind that this will be a course with lots of corners....speeds might not bee to high and even on the straights i'm going to put in some chicanes and so on......

i just wanna make sure that the TB01 is what i need....and my experience is limited to about 12 Radio Shack level buggys that i've owned over the years....

sorry this was so long but i'm trying to cover my bases so that i can order this kit before the Christmas rush and delays of shippers kicks in....

TIA

[Jimmy33]

YAY welcome to the world of rallying
WOW lots of questions lets ee if I can help you work through them.

Ground clearance - tamiya at 24mm. What you have to understand is how the suspention of the rc car works. I believe it is indempendant double wishbone suspention which prob mean absolutly nothing to you. Either way if we look at it in the simplest way....
Tamiya state 24mm groud cleance i believe this is the distance between the huba dn the ground. This can only be changed by putting bigger tyres on. HOwever the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the ground is the bit which can be raised or lowered. Mine is currently set at about 3 cm. Wht would must understnd is that 24mmm = 24cm in real life so there is already quite a bit of ground clearance. You will want ot change the shocks fort some which arent as restrictive. (See back in the forum)

The body height is adjustable and so you can set it to any height you want it. Tamiya will set all the bodies to quiet low because it then looks better wheen pics are being taken.

Speed wise i a gree i am not a hard core speed fan - i just bold in a faster motor and dont worry about gearing - i currently run a 15Turn on stock gearing and it is ok with good accerationAll of the shells are painted on the inside with the decals on the out side so the effect you want is given as standard :D

As for parts - i ahbve never had any problems and the TB01 Rally as it is so succesfull looks to be carrying on for a long time to come. Also this is the only car i ahve never brokne anything on except wheels and body shells - just goes to show how strong it is!

btw i love my tb01

[Doomed]

Welcome,
Didn't see it in Jimmys great post but you paint on the inside of the lexan and apply decals on the outside like you were thinking. I got the Ford. Full bearings lowest price model.

[Car-la]

does anyone know the proper tamiya blue for the focus tb01 body?

as well as the proper tamiya red for the lancer evo VI?

i'm ready to order but i don't know the colors....

[Janders]

Make sure you use the supplied masks on the inside of the body. Paint with spray can(looks much better than paint on). Peel the outer cover/masks after it's dried for around a day.

If you haven't done a Lexan body before, I'd go with a solid color with decals, save the fancy masking/paint for another body. Even if you aren't interested in speed, I'd go with a lower(at least 19T) motor, an ESC, ballbearings and experiment with putting spacers(c clamps) to stiffen/loosen the shocks. If you can- put on slightly longer shocks (I use HPI rally on my TB-01). If you have some money the TG-10 aluminum steering setup is nice($40ish).

Make sure you raise up the freshly painted body to run it, so it doesn't catch on the boulders you're hopping : )

[Car-la]

Jimmy33, thanks for the info....




Doomed...unfortunatly the punk who i ordered the car from called back to say they were out of stock AFTER i'd specifically asked him if they had it in stock.....

and he was such a jerk to me over the phone talking to me like i'm an idiot...i know a bit about cars...my brother is a mechanic....

so watch out for the punks at Sheldon's Hobbys....online shop but i forgot the address....

so i jut had to bite the bullet...and get an Impreza body with the TB01 and oder a separate Focus body with it....

i'm soooo steamed at these Sheldon people.....

must be a fly-by-night operation....




Janders...thanks for the tips...i've done scale WWII bomber modeling for years but never touched these types of cars....masking is no prob....

and i've written down some of that hop up info...thanks...


the track is been roughed in and tomrrow i'll go back and trim it neat with the weed wacker....

thanks all....i'll be sure to post more questions as the weeks go on....

anyone find those paint colors? i called tower and they didn't kow and searched all over the place online and noe one seems to know....

i'd hate to order the body...then have to look at the box and THEN have to order the paints and pay twice on shipping....

anyone?

[Doomed]

That really sucks about Sheldon's Hobbys, I don't know that place. I noticed that the Ford is discontinued at Tower. I painted mine all white so I didn't even try to find the correct blue. If I find anything I will let you know.

[Janders]

I've bought about 5 bodies from them(at less that $10 each), but never a kit.

AS for the colors, I'd try metallic blue(scooby) and racing red(EVO) from pactra, or ask on the HPI RS-4 forum what color they use if you can't get any answers on the Tamiya forums

Here's Tamiya's color chart..definitely metallic blue on the WRX, bright red or red for the EVO
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/paints/images/polycarb_chart.jpg

[microrcdude]

what blue are you talking about?? The light blue or the dark blue

[Janders]

PS-16... of course get a can and check out the actual color, but the subarus definitely have a metallic in their paint.

BTE here is pactra metallic blue on my wild dagger
http://home.earthlink.net/~janders211/images/rccar/clodwheels.JPG

[Jimmy33]

The pactra metallic blue, when blackened byt bloack can be very dar. However I dont think metalic blue is the way to go. I used i think i t was Midght Blue (Pactra) on my Focus which seemed to fit fine. Basically it is dark blue you want not a light blue