HPI Pro 2 thread...

[rccarkilla]

Hey guys,

I just noticed that there isn't a pro2 thread up yet, so lets try and get this thing rollin'!

Anyway, I bought a pro2 a few weeks back, and it's a cool change from my Nitro Rush. Don't you just love that instant throttle response! :D

Lets here your set-ups, i.e tyres, shock oils, ground clearances, bodies, springs etc etc.

also, Has anybody heard of ING tyres? I was thinking of their introductory offer which gives you 3 full sets of tyres for £30! i hear they are pretty darn grippy. Anybody tried them?

=chris=

[hpijoepro2]

no

[DogBone]

Depends on what chassis you are using. Are you using the chassis that has the battery slots on it or are you using the narrow chassis (Japan Edition). I use the Japan edition and I think it handles better than the wide chassis. Also I use shocks from an HPI Proceed. This is an excellent option. Mine handles very well. I use 0 deg sus mts in th front for a more stable car.

[rccarkilla]

I'm still using the stock chassis, as Pro2 hop-ups over here in the UK are pretty hard to come by now the Pro3 has been out for a year or so.

I'd never have thought about using proceed shocks on a pro2. Are they a direct fit then?

=chris=

[payn4itpro2]

i've never heard of those tires but it sounds like a good deal.if they stick like like my Pitshumitzu 24's and 25's i'd buy'm

[amazeing]

Help!
i was taking my rear diff out and 5 bearing came out. The bearing were not from the rear ball diff because i opened it up and they were all there. I checked the bearings that connect the rear diff to the rear assemble and thoes are fine, thoes are smaller than the ones that came out and the ones in the rear diff are too big.
I NEED YOUR HELP!:( :eek: :confused:

[amazeing]

i going to run it now. i found out where the little balls go
mabey it'll work again:(

[payn4itpro2]

thrust bearings.......maybe?



*remember to keep'm lubed!

[amazeing]

ya i think i kow what the problem is. now i have to disassemble the rear end and fix it. doh! cant do it tonight, i got a test to study for. oh ya almost forgot, should i fun this car in the mod or stock class?

[rccarkilla]

Modified all the way. Stocks can be very fast, especially the top-end stock motors. I've heard people saying that some stocks are about the equivalent of about a 17turn modified, but can be run on batts with a much lower capacity than a 17t.

I however think that the faster the better, lol. I'd go for about a 14x2 if you are new to racing. If you have had previous experience with RCs, I'd go for maybe a 13 or 12 turn.

Remember though, that the main factor in a fast car is to have a decent ESC. A top-end motor with an entry level ESC will not work half as wel as if you use good components.

=chris=

[Albertt]

...I've heard people saying that some stocks are about the equivalent of about a 17turn modified...

I believe that this is true only in terms of low end torque. A 17 turn should have more RPM than a 27 turn...affecting the car's top speed.

[amazeing]

my cars working agian:D but i need to buy a better radio system befor i get a nother new motor. i have a 17t sg 2 saphire motor right now. i might buy a p2k2 and some new batts after

[amazeing]

how can it be done. and would this car handel a leher 5300 brushless system?

[amazeing]

or should i just leave it a touring car?:rolleyes:

[PCC]

Leave it a touring car. They don't make a compatible 200mm suspension for the Pro2 and the chassis isn't the best for the pounding of off-roading.

[Doh Boy]

just make sure belts are tight and get a slipper clutch.

[amazeing]

rally tires and raise it? longer A arm's? what about 1:8th scale tires?

[rccarkilla]

lol

Most 1/8 scale tyres use totally different axles than 1/10s do. They normally use clips instead of wheel nuts, as nuts tend to fly off under the tremendous torque of the .21 engines. This is a problem on electric cars too, but not half as bad.

Just keep it a touring car, and improve it. Get a new body and some two-tone CS chrome wheels. I take it that you don't race, as you wanted to convert it to a rallycar, so try and make something that looks nice and what you will be happy with. Then start thinking about that brushless system ;)

=chris=

[biturbo15]

If you want to make a rally car just chek out the differences between your pro 2 and the rs4 rally. it isnt much. I was thinking of doing the same thing with my sport 2 actually. just get softer shocks. the 35ml shocks on the rs4 rally and maybe an inner body to block debri. oh ya and dont forget those awesome rally tires! their a must. While you are at it I would also suggest the front and rear graphite shock towers they will help your shocks a lot. I think you may have a little more fun if it was a touring car though. But I am here if u have any questions. I will check this thread often.

[PCC]

Waddaya mean there isn't much difference between a RS4 Rally and a Pro2? They only have a few parts in common: motor plate, rear bulkhead, front bulkhead, wheel hexes, rear hubs, and that's about it. The chassis is longer (about 10mm longer between the front and rear bulkheads), the suspension arms are different, the front C-hubs are different, the Rally is 200mm, the Pro2 190mm, the upper deck is different, the diffs are different (though interchangeable), the front belt is different (the rear is, too, though the Pro2's is an upgrade for the Rally), the shocks are longer, the front and rear shock towers are different, the steering gear is mostly different.

Don't kid yourself, the Pro2 is not a Rally and cannot be cheaply converted into one. For the cost of a conversion it would be cheaper to buy a new Rally.

[toddzilla]

hey i just picked up a pro 2 on ebay and was wondering what are some good spare parts to have laying around... how often do the belts break? i've never had a belt-drive car before, not sure if i'll keep it or not, but i got a great deal and figured it was worth a shot..

[DogBone]

Its easy to convert. Just make sure you protect the chassis with an inner body set and use a chassis protector. As far as diffs go, use the metal ball diffs. you can use a one way, but make sure it's a heavy duty one. As for difference in sus arm lengths. I recommend using 1mm spacers and 3mm off set wheels. Top it off with the Suzuki Escudo. They work great even with a 190mm set up. Just remember to CA all your carbon parts so they don't peel.

DogBone

[jay272]

I just bought a used pro-2, and the rear will not stay planted. Can anyone help with any set-up info?

[DogBone]

What tire are you using? This is the key since 75%of your setup is tire choice. If your using a hard tire then of course it will slip. Too soft and it'll do a traction roll. I usually go 5 degrees up or down in the summer and 10-12 degress up or down during the winter. Ex. Its 32 degrees Celsius out side I may go with a 36R, 32R or 28R. Depends on if its humid I may start out with the mid and work from there. Just keep in mind that if the rear is coming around you may have a spring that is too hard. If the tires are tearing then your spring is too soft or your tire compound is too soft. Springs should actually be the last thing you mess with. This is fine tuning. Tuning is tire choice. For the Pro 2's that I run, i am using 0 degree caster in the front to balance out the car. 0mm rebound in the front and 2 mm rebound in the rear. If you want to experiment with it try adding 1.5 degrees of camber all the way around. This way if the car is rolling right (side to side) then the contact patch of the tire should go to 0 degrees when entering turns hence putting more subber on the track. There is a slight catch to this though. I am using the stick pack chassis for the Pro2 with one ways. Naturally my car is more narrow than the regular Pro 2. I have the regular chassis but I opt for the narrow one on the track that I run. Anyway if you find your still having trouble let me know and I'll check it out and see if I can come up with a better solution.

Dog Bone

[jay272]

Took your advice Dogbone. I guess my tires were garbage, because after buying some "pit shimizus" 27's Front, 24's rear and adding the camber you suggested, the car is way better than my tc3. I almost e-bay'ed the damn thing, but I'm glad I didn't!!!

[DogBone]

I dont know what type of motor you use, but try this. Anything that is not needed on that Pro 2, get rid of it. Try to get the car down to 1500 grams. This is where it works best. Im in Japan and I don't run my Pro 2 much anymore, but I did use it to qualify for all Japan and I barely made it. After that I switched to Yokomo. Anyway once you get it down to 1500 grams (with a NEW set of tires) add 10 grams on the side next to the receiver or right between the standoffs for the steering arms/servo saver. This should keep you in specs if you run stock. If you race modified I highly suggest adding about a hundred grams to the overall weight. I suggest doing this with the Aluminum option parts and if need be lead weight. I had to switch because the top four finishers used Yokomo so I switched. Not a bad choice either considering I dropped a full second on lap times. I just added the most recent conversion and converted everything to silver graphite. Not bad, but still working the kinks out of it.

[biturbo15]

What is better the hpi sport 2 or the hpi pro 2? I am thinking about changing my sport 2 to a pro 2. Is it worth it? Please help.-

[toddzilla]

why do you want to upgrade? do you race? if not, i doubt you'll notice much difference. it would probably cost more to upgrade than to sell your car and get a new pro 3 or something.


i have and race a pro 2 and do pretty well with it. i'm pretty impressed with the car overall but i don't know specificallyy what the difference is between a regular 2 and a pro.

[biturbo15]

How about just upgrading the chassi? Since the sport 2 chassi is fiberglass and the pro 2 chassi is cabon fiber would it be worth it to change?

[DogBone]

The chassis is definitely stronger if you change to graphite, but if you can get a hold of a stick pack chassis I recommend doing so. The weight is about the same but the chassis is more narrow. This chassis is common in the Japan edition and much more stable. I have three Pro 2's and each are set about the same with the exception that two asre stick pack and the other is the standard saddle pack configuration. Even if you dont race it would still be worth the investment to switch just make sure you use a chassis protector to protect your investment. I don't run my Pro 2 much now that I use a MR-4TC YMP SSG, but still think the Pro 2 is the best HPI touring sedan to date. I wouldn't recommend the Pro 3 unless you have some serious cash to spend on the Atsushi Hara Edition (about $500) and I dont think it's available in the US. The Pro 4 will be out soon and from what Im told it's very good. A cross between the TC3 and the Tamiya Evolution 3. It won't be available until June or July, but If you want a change all together then it would be worth the wait. Plus it would give you more time to save your duckets for some cool option parts. Hope this helps.

Dogbone

[jay272]

How is does that yokomo feel compared to the pro 2? Did you instantly drop a second off your lap time?

[b3guyRC10]

I know that this is not the RS4 rally thread, but I do think it has to deal with the Pro 2. I recently wanted to start TC racing and I have a Tmaxx, bolink pan car, 2 e rustlers, a RS4 rally, and burned remains of my sweet GT... Well the RS4 rally was the closed to a TC so I figured that i would convert it. I am planning to enter it in the TC stock class. In it I have, Futaba 2PHKA radio, Novak XXl reciever, JR high speed digital servo, Novak Fusion ESC, Sanyo 3000 HV's, and SMH 3000's as well as a P2k motor. I am in the process of converting it to a complete TC to race as I stated earlier. I have put fuel tubing on the shock shaft in the shock bodies to act as limiters and filled the shocks with 40wt oil all around. Now there is 5/16in ground clearence in the front and 1/4 in ground clearence in the rear. I also plan on getting a good set of tires for my track. I have a HPI 328i 200mm body in the basement that I need to paint anyways.

Do you guys think that I am going through all this trouble for nothing and will I get killed in the stock TC classes at my local track? Also could you please name everything I would need to get in order to be competative? I am looking forward to hearing your replys!!

Regards,
Will

[PCC]

Basically, you need to convert your Rally into a 'Sport'. To do this right you need to get touring car shocks (about $40 for all four), shorter dogbones, touring car front bumper and front lower suspension mount, touring car rear shock tower, and a 190mm body. You then need to cut down the long suspension arms to the shorter configuration.

To race, you don't really need more than that but if you want to be reasonably competitive you should get low friction belts, 64P spurs and pinions, new ballbearings (the dust from off-roading will make the bearings you have now a poor choice for racing), CVD's, graphite balldiffs, maybe a front one-way.

If you are really serious about racing then sell the thing and get an XRay ;)

[DogBone]

First, Jay, the Yokomo is sweet! I actually dropped more than a second on shakedown! My Yoke is not your typical TC. Im probably one of very few that actually runs the SSG (that is short of Yokomo's team drivers - benefits of being where I am) Now Im a diehard Pro2 fan (I own three, what else can I say!) but since you asked I felt obliged to send a picture of a similar SSG (not mine) just so you can see what Im talking about. As for the b3guy, well unless it's extremely windy where you race, stay away from the 200mm bodys. I say windy because I raced at the HPI World Finals this year and many people (mostly Japanese) were using a Suzuki Escudo. Somebody knew something and didn't pass it on. On a course (with no wind) a 200mm wont give you the best turning. It'll push alot! Make sure it's light. I don't know what ROAR rules state as far as weight is concerned, but I run under the JMRCA and their rules state minimum 1500 grams or 3.3lbs with a full car including battery. I also added about 10 grams extra with a set of new tires so I wouldnt fail post race tech. Motors - there in the US 27 turn is stock. Here it's 23 turn. Much faster and more torque. I suggest play with it. Each motor has a sweet spot. Find it and people will think you are running a hotter motor. I run a Luna STC-S 23T and after a few times on a lathe people think Im running a 14T. If you have a lot of motors (hopefully some duplicates) dyno or check the RPM on one right out of the bag and right down in a notebook. On the other one run it and cut it every few runs and check it each time. You'll eventually notice it get faster. This is good for several reasons. Either you get more top speed which is good if you tend to catch up at the end of the race or if you gear higher you'll get the extra run time because you won't over work the motor (or the battery). Depends on how long the mains are. Between 5-8 minutes is about average. Ive only seen longer mains in nitro events. Here 8 minutes is what we run. Tough trying to get the speed you need with the alotted time to do it in. Anyway just my 2 cents.

Dogbone

[jay272]

That's one hell of a Yokomo!! It seems that us r/c'ers in the states miss out on all the good stuff.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

hell yea!!! i am a huge fan of the PRO 2.. i thought i was the only one out there..lol i currently own 2 PRO 2's and i use to own a PRO 3..i sold it so i could get another PRO 2..lol the handling and the ease of taking it apart and putting it back together and all the hop up parts and options, this touring car kicks ass.

each time i run this car i am blown away! i wonder if any body will throw up some pics of there PRO 2's see what they got on them.:D :cool: :D

[colinradford]

My Pro 2, got it recently off Ebay as a rolling chassis. I know the wiring is a bit messy but the electronics have to fit in my B4 as well! I have raced it once and I am very impressed with it.

http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCMed/rs4pro2-4.jpg
http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCMed/rs4pro2-3.jpg
http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCMed/rs4pro2-2.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Cool!
i want to get a pro 2

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

whoa nice pro2. yea you will not regreat buying a pro 2, the amount you can get them for now, and the way they perform...good god, i think it blows the pro 3 away..but thats just me..hahahaha:D

[colinradford]

Once the driver got his glitching problems sorted (I've only driven offroad before so a found the Pro 2 very twitchy for the first heat until I got used to it) I found the car handled really well.

It just seemed to go where I wanted it too (mostly!), the drivetrain is very smooth and it has a lot of straightline speed as well.

I want to do more touring car races but our club only runs them every 3 weeks.........

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

yea i have a worse problem, i have to drive all the way to compton to race, and that is like a 3 hour drive..lol i wish they had a track around the santa barbera area to do some carpet racing or street racing, something nice like in compton.

[colinradford]

I have a different problem, I live on an island 9 miles by 5, there is only one club. Not far to drive to the races but very expensive to get off the island and race anywhere else.

We run electric offroad, 1/8 rallycross and electric touring cars, with the races for each class 3 weeks apart, so we do get to race something every weekend. Also gives you a good chance to get spares and fix the cars before the next round!

On every other Thurday evening in the summer we run nitro trucks as well.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

yea i cant wait till i am done with my PRO 2, well my 2nd one at that, i made one for racing and one for testing/slash BYB..lol but yea i am just about done with all the alloy parts for right now. i am having all the pieces made here on base, we have a shop that will make any parts needed, well with the left over alloy or titanium parts we get i give them a couple of plastic pieces off of my PRO 2 and have them put together. i just saw the alloy rear bulk head set..man it is sweet, also i had done was the front gear box motor plate/heatsink, front arm set and rear arm set, alloy gear box, alloy upper fronts and rears, and shock towers. i was thinking about doing the whole frame but the carbon fiber mixes it up a bit i will think, once i get the finished product i will post it up so everybody can check it out. i can see it now, cant wait till i have it all put together...man:D :D :D

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

sorry for the pictures not being so clear but i am still working on it. it is soon to be done but this is where i am at now.

[colinradford]

Looks sweet! Are all the purple/blue parts ones you have made in the shop?

I'm gradually making handling improvements to my Pro 2, I've just got some decent tyres to try rather than the second hand ones I got with it.

[Megatron]

I just got a Pro 2 off Ebay for cheap. Supposedly, it's never been run. I can't wait until it gets here. It's my second Pro 2, but this one here won't be winning any touring car races any time soon :D ...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pf175c478eef02a023059714493f7c2d2/fbd8437d.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p2f4daa41228a9fce79d809c121777ad4/fbd84691.jpg

[colinradford]

Those arms are very long and the wheels are huge!

I'm guessing it is a rally conversion with stadium truck wheels/tyres on it.

I think you could be right about not winning races.........unless you can get the holeshot, nobody would be able to pass that thing it is so wide!

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by colinradford
Looks sweet! Are all the purple/blue parts ones you have made in the shop?

I'm gradually making handling improvements to my Pro 2, I've just got some decent tyres to try rather than the second hand ones I got with it.

everything you see i made in the shop..except the robinson racing diffs, and the graphite chasis, dog bones and bearings..of coarse..lol if you want i could email some clearer photos so you can see into detail and compare..let me know what you think. i was going to do the chasis, but i like the graphite look better, kinda mixes it up a bit. it drives just like the stock PRO 2, just feels a bit lighter, i will throw it up on the scale to see how much it weighs. i also wanted to do all purple, but then it would seem all stock parts, so i mixed it up and did blue and purple, i might do another set and do red, make a red PRO 2, well that is if i sell this one, i will see, i like doing projects. oh and some parts are titanium, and alloy. depending what scraps we had left. i might sell the car and a brand new P 94..i dunno..still thinking, cause this thing does handle pretty nice:D

[colinradford]

I'd love to see some close up shots!

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

then kool i will email you some shots tonight.

[Megatron]

Originally posted by colinradford
Those arms are very long and the wheels are huge!

I'm guessing it is a rally conversion with stadium truck wheels/tyres on it.

I think you could be right about not winning races.........unless you can get the holeshot, nobody would be able to pass that thing it is so wide!

I run it off-road w/ the trucks at my track. It's almost got more RS4 MT parts than Pro 2.:D

[colinradford]

I would have thought you would have problems offroad with the drivetrain being so exposed?

[Megatron]

The drivetrain is exposed and the belts are soooo skinny compared to the MT. There are a couple of really nice indoor offroad tracks near my house and I run it there.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Yay!
I think i am getting a pro 2 tommorow!
WEeeeeeeeeeeeeeEeEeEEEeee

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

O BOY!!!
here she is!
http://www.******.net/media/117_1724.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

http://www.******.net/media/117_1738.jpg

[colinradford]

Looks good, I love my Pro 2!

Just converted my battery packs from stick to saddle and it has improved the handling of the car a lot. It felt a lot less loose yesterday (apart from my tyre experiment which didn't quite work in heat 2!)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Cool!
what gearing and motor are you running?
Also, anyone have pro 2 inner body?
how does it mount?
Those swivel lock things like on rally inner body?

[colinradford]

I'm running a Reedy Ti 11x2 on 90/23-24 gearing.

You can find pics at http://zarj.cwgsy.net/rs4pro2.htm the page is almost up to date!

I don't have the inner body so I don't know how it fits on.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

darn...

Hey colin, i noticed that we run the same radio!

are the diff out drive suppose to accept d shape rings?
HG lightweight one i have nip i took out won't accept d rings, just o rings

[colinradford]

I have the HPI lightweight graphite diff hubs (part A497) on mine, they take D-rings (part 72105). The standard diff hubs (A160) take O shaped rings (A164).

My front diff is pretty gritty at the moment, it needs a rebuild.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I must have had the graphite outdrives. They are worn pretty bad up front so i gotta replace them.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I must have had the graphite outdrives. They are worn pretty bad up front so i gotta replace them.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Can anyone suggest me a good carpet Tri-Oval set up?

I rebuilt the car today and made some changes so it's more suitable.
0 degree anti dive
8 degree caster
1degree rear hub
Purple Sway bar front
Pink Sway bar Rear

40WT and #3 pistons all around

Now...
I need help with Toe/Camber settings and some suggestions on the sway bars I don't have any green, just pink or purple
Also, Shock springs. I have Black/ Blue / and yellow

Yellow is the hardest, black is the weakest and blue is in the middle.

Let me know!
Thanks:)

[riceracer]

ok, got a problem, my stock shock ball cups on the bottom are wearing out bad and are nearly ripping off, what should i do?

is there a more heavy dutyish ball cup for my stock shocks?

also if i get the threaded super shocks will it come with ALUMINUM ball cups or will the ball cup be made out of the same material?

thanks

[italiannitroman]

Does anyone have one for sale

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

this is not the "wanted to buy" forum

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Anything new guys?

[colinradford]

Anything new guys?

Not really! Had a touring car race yesterday, car was going really well until it took a tumble and the negative lead was pulled off the battery pack (bad solder joint I guess) a couple of minutes into the final.

Best I've had it handling, I've just put on the carbon front shock tower and a set of Take Off CS-22s. Pit Shimuzu wets worked pretty well when it was damp to start off with.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

that sucks :(

[colinradford]

Couple of updated images of my Pro 2 to try and keep this thread alive!

Just added a rear carbon shock tower which has much better tuning options, should help with the problems I've had with the back end grounding out. Also gone to a Reedy Kr rather than Reedy Ti for power.

Lastly is the Ferrari 360 Modena body for our Winter GT championship.

http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCMed/Pro2-141103008.jpg

http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCMed/Pro2-141103012.jpg

http://zarj.cwgsy.net/images/RCMed/Pro2-141103007.jpg

Colin

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

cool,
no more pro 2 for me.
I sold it so i can buy a new speed control for my XXX-S:)

[drift_kid0]

heres my pro 2 that i just bought like a month ago from my cuzin who doesnt need it...it runs good and is a good chassis...

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL221/1629134/3123538/38367615.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL221/1629134/3123538/38367040.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL221/1629134/3123538/38273106.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL221/1629134/3123538/38273095.jpg
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL221/1629134/3123538/38273111.jpg

[bigjohnnn]

I just bought a Pro 2. I would like to convert it to a Rally car Can someone help me with part numbers. I would need a longer shock and I would like to convert it to 200mm. How do you convert too 200mm? Is is just the off set rims and shimms? Has anyone done this?

HELP!!

[PCC]

IMHO, that would be a waste of a good car but what do I know?

Your only option is to use wide offset wheels as the Pro2/Sport2 use unique (to HPI) suspension arms in the rear. If you use nitro touring car suspension arms on the Pro2 your car will either have a longer or shorter wheelbase depending on how you mounted the rear arms. The longer shocks from the electric Rally would work but the front suspension will need to be modified because the front hub carriers will hit the arms as soon as you try to drop the arms past horizontal. Remember that the Pro2 was designed to be a racing touring car, not a rally car. An alternative would be to use the older style Pro or RS4 front suspension, which is the same suspension that is used on the electric Rally but the rear suspension will give you the same problem as using nitro suspension arms.

[F1Junkie]

Any Updates?

I am getting a Pro 2 for fun, along with some roller cars as spares.

I always wanted one of these when they were really popular.

After the past few years, I still find something cool about these cars. They were the inspiration for a lot of the cars out there today, like the XRay and Tamiya 414s...

cheers

Dave

:)

[colinradford]

This forum seems pretty dead, I guess everybody has bought Pro 4s!

I'm still racing my Pro 2, I've got a setup now which I don't change and my driving is getting better. The car is pretty much nailed to the floor, pretty good for a 5 year old car!

I've been looking out for a roller on Ebay too, just so I've got a complete set of spares!

[BCSavage]

I just bought a Pro 2. It was shipped on the 25th and should be here sometime this week. It is BRAND NEW in the box, unassembled! :D I can hardly wait lol. Paid a pretty penny for it but I HAD to have new ;) Just hoping to liven this thread back up cuz this is my FIRST TC and I'm sure to have LOTS of questions lol.

My Proline 24series wheels showed up today, they are HUGE!

[microrcdude]

ya, and the wheels look SWEET! its hard to get them under bodies other than the ridez series bodies. I couldnt get them under a stratus or a viper. What body will you be using?

[BCSavage]

I'm going to be tucking them under the HPI Lexus LS430 200mm body. I did a mock up in MS Paint, should look something like this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BCSavage/RS4/Pimped.jpg

[microrcdude]

wow! looks great!

[BCSavage]

Thanks. I'm going to be doing it in white-pearl though, trying to go for the Cadillac White-Diamond.

[microrcdude]

the white is awesome! I used it on my cuz's escalade

[BCSavage]

Sweet! I can't wait to get this together.

[microrcdude]

i cant wait till my b-day! I get 2 new cars!!!

[BCSavage]

nice! which 2?

[microrcdude]

B4 and a Xray T1 Raycer. Where do you live?

[BCSavage]

The racer is nice, I don't know squat about the b4 though. I'm in BC, Canada.

[microrcdude]

dang! how far is that from vancouver, WA?

[BCSavage]

lol, there is a vancouver in Washington? Dude, you are almost RIGHT below me...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BCSavage/Misc%20Pics/map.jpg

[microrcdude]

LOL. If i were to sit on my rc, it would take 2000 packs to get outa vancouver. Prolly 3000000 packs later, id be half way. Then, no more motor.

[BCSavage]

lmao, it's make a great vid though :D

[microrcdude]

ya, but ill have a "smoking" rc car. (motor gods, please help)

[BCSavage]

he he he, regular or menthol? ;)

[microrcdude]

lol. no clue

[hpi Pro2]

Hi im a new member so ill just say a couple of things im 15 and got a pro2 about a week ago and i have a huge amount of questons about my pro 2 i read most of the replies so far but i need to ask these first off im having a tire problim the thing is my basement is pretty big but it has taht sealer stuff on the concrete and both sets of my tires dont work that great i have foam ones and a tread design set the foam work better, 2. the upper chasis of my car is compleetly different then whats on the hpi website i wonder if that matters, 3. do your diffs feel like theirs sand in them even after you clean them and resilicone them. thats all for now thanks for helping

[microrcdude]

could you explain the diff problem sme more?

sounds like you need softer tires.

[hpi Pro2]

well the thing is when you spin one wheel (its posi) the other one spins the opposite but when your spinging theirs a skipy feeling like theirs sand in their but theirs no sand its a very fine sandy feel not a major stop or anything just u feel it


and for the tires do u think i should stick with foam or a rubber tire


Thank you

[BCSavage]

could it be our belts?

Maybe the balls have flat spots

[hpi Pro2]

well when you tighten the spring that lets you adjust the slip of the diff it gets a bit more noticeable but just barely but your probli rite cus my cousen got this car used and i bought it off him just it just sat in his garage i got it for 20$ and ill tell you what its the best car i ever bought:)

[hpi Pro2]

also another pretty big ? thats on my mind you know how theirs that 2 speed tranny conversion for the pro and i belive the sport will that tranny work with the my car its been something iwant to find out but dont want to spend the 50$ it would cost me.

[QDiddy]

Anyone have the 2 speed on their Pro 2?
Does it make much difference?
Is it hard to install?
Pros/Cons

Thanks

[microrcdude]

the 2 speed has no difference. I honestly dont see why they make it? to add weight?

[Quinton]

microrcdude - Have you tried it before on yours?
I heard that it helps add top speed but I've also heard it doesn't do much at all.
Just lookin for some more opinions.
Thanks

[microrcdude]

ya. all i can say is, 1 or 2 mph isnt much difference. I would use the money to buy a hotter motor or more spur gears and pinions.

[BCSavage]

a 2-speed allows you to gear higher in 2nd giving you more top end but still keep the lower gearing for acceleration. It COULD be worth it if you knew EXACTLY what you were doing, but even then it'd be hard to justify. 2-speeds are for nitros :p

[TRF Drive Hard]

A 2-speed for an electric is pointless... ya sure you'll have juice in the batts to get it up there... but once the batt drains, the 2-speed is useless... like micro said, save yo doe fo mo better stuff... :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

BTW, i recently got a pro2 off a friend... just ned to replace a few parts and i can get her running... she even came with a novak cyclone tc2 :D

[microrcdude]

great job! You like it?

[BCSavage]

I ordered a C2 for mine... should be here this week. Too bad I'm still gonna be stuck using a 1700mah pack and midnight pro2 motor

[microrcdude]

well, pick up those 3300 orion cells that are like $33

[TRF Drive Hard]

Its in great condition... he used it to race local but never had much time to do so... so he offered to sell it... i offered 150 to make it worth his while...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Are those cells matched?

[Quinton]

That's what I will be needing, is some batts.
Where can I get some good ones for cheap?
I remember back when I was into electric people were buying them off someon online for a very decent price compared to the ones a HS carries.

BCSavage - For vids go to r c p i c s.net and then Media then On-road and Video.
There are lots.

[BCSavage]

well, pick up those 3300 orion cells that are like $33

I would but I don't have ANY money to throw around right now, we are moving at the end of the month and the difference in rent is $180/month so I've got to cut back on my toys. I'm prolly going to sell my Sport to my buddy (he lives in the building I'm moving to) and use that cash to finance a new motor/battery... but then I'm also going to need a new charger cuz I've only got my Hobbico 900 right now and it'll take 2 hours to charge a 3300 pack.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Dude pick up the duratrax intellipeak digital charger... its sweet... so far i have 2... looking to get 2 more... it cuts down chargin time when you have plenty of batteries... :D

[microrcdude]

yes. the intellpeak is a great charger.

[BCSavage]

again, lack of funds. Maybe I'll get a charger and battery instead of battery and motor. I kinda like the longer run times of the midnight motor.

[BCSavage]

what about the DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse Charger? Any good? I know I shouldn't skimp on the charger, so if anyone has an Intellipeak digital for sale, let me know ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

How much you willing to spend for a decent charger?

[TRF Drive Hard]

If you plan to buy NiMH batts, you can only charge them @3amps on that charger... prolly to an hour to finish... the NiCd can charge up @6.5amps... thats why i got the digital version... both charge rates can be used to the max... although i charge my packs @5amps... you can also monitor the mah, amp rate, and voltage... ;)

[BCSavage]

Well I'm searching ebay and the buy/sell forums. In order for my budget to be around $150, I have to sell a few things that'll need replacing. If that makes any sense lol

I'm gonna need:

Charger
battery pack
motor

so I'm pretty much dreaming unless I buy used.

[Quinton]

Do these batts look alright?
http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10520.3

I've ordered nimh packs from him before for my nitros and his service and products are very nice.

[BCSavage]

they are only nicads and 2400mah. They're better than what I'm running now, but not by much.

[BCSavage]

http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10221.21

Get 6 of those and wire them up yourself. They won't be matched, but who cares? :p

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well then thats 30 off there for ya... now ya got 120 to play with... :p

[BCSavage]

not quite. I've got $150 canadian and that's IF that's how much I get for my other car from my friend... what do you think it's worth?

HPI RS4 Sport
Airtronics Rival Sport AM radio
Novak Explorer Sport ESC
1700mah NICAD battery.
Trinity Midnight Pro 2
Hobbico 900 AC/DC charger

[TRF Drive Hard]

Whats the condition of the sport2?

[BCSavage]

pretty minty. When I got it it was a bit used and abused but I borrowed some of the extra parts from my pro2 kit and rebuilt all the neccessities. One shock needed e-clips and all four got new oil. So it's in great shape.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BCSavage/RS4/86cad8bb.jpg

[TRF Drive Hard]

Wow, that is an older model... looks mint too... might get what you ask for but does your friend know what it might be worth to him?

[BCSavage]

not sure I follow...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well lets say 150 is too much... he might bargain to go lower... imho... for what you are sellin... all the stuff you have is out dated... so maybe it isnt race worthy... if intended... but to bash, ok... im sure most of us want to get our moneys worth... im sure its worth 150... just some peeps are too cheap...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Eek... i noticed you have a panasonic battery in it... blah, i hate panasonic batts :p

[BCSavage]

lol, that's the 1700mah nicad :P

And now I see what you mean, but I'm sure it's worth $150 for him to come bash with us. That's what it's for. Just a few guys with some sidewalk chalk and cones in a ball-hockey court playing around.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well if you throw in another batt for him im sure the 150 would be a great investment for him... ;)

[BCSavage]

except that that is THE only battery I own at the moment.

[TRF Drive Hard]

DAMN dude lol the only battery??? cant get much fun with one... btw, do you use deans plugs or the tamiya plugs on the battereis?

[BCSavage]

look at the pic, it's a tamiya ;)

I bought the Sport cuz it came with everything to run (at the bare minimum mind you) and I bought the Pro 2 to build into a nice little touring car with some nice stuff (Have an MX3 and supermicro rx for it, my Cyclone C2 will be here this week) so I'd like to be able to sell the Sport offf for enough to get me a decent charger/battery/motor. I'm thinking of getting a reedy quad-mag or p2k2 cuz I like stock run-times ;) the battery I want is a set of unmatched gp3300's (don't have the time or equipement to maintain a matched pack) and I don't want to go overboard with the charger either. I'm not a pro racer, I just like driving around my neighbourhood right now with some friendly competetive indoor carpet racing.

[hpi Pro2]

Well I have a few more questions,
1.How low is your car and whats the best positon for handling?
2.suspention springs and oils again whats the best for handling?
3. how should i set my diffs Whats the best for handling?

Thank a lot guys you've helped so much so far.

[BCSavage]

I've got everything set to factory as per the manual right now, have only ran it outside twice. Other than that it's been driven around my living room. Until I get some serious drive-time in I won't know what settings to change.

[colinradford]

I used Pink springs front and Green rear (HPI springs), 40 wt shock oil all around, ride height would usually be about 6-7mm. 0 degree toe-in, -1 degree front camber, -2 degree rear.

I can't really say about diffs because I set them by feel which is difficult to describe in writing, go with what the manual says with the front a touch tighter than the rear.

[hpi Pro2]

I have a bunch of 2400mah nicad stick packs and I tryed to make them side by side packs. But for some reason they don't kick alot of juice. I don't think the solder can make that big of a deal???

What sould I do I can get a great deal on the packs like 3$ each.

[BCSavage]

you can get 2400 mah stick packs for $3? You might've overheated the cells when you re-wired them. Make sure they are completely discharged before soldering.

[Quinton]

Can't you make your Pro 2 to accept stick packs?

[microrcdude]

with the sport 2 battry supports.

[BCSavage]

Stick packs in RS4 cars (expecially the pro 2) are the number one cause for broken chassis plates. In a crash they cause alot of twisting torque.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Actually the chassis flexes alot... my friends sport 2 flexes... the pro 2 i have flexes also... the rear brace is weak... so i think the aluminum rear brace should reduce the flex... but not by much... but should reduce it a bit... :p

[BCSavage]

I'm just saying that everyone I talked to that had a Pro 2 and ran stick packs had cracked their lower chassis at some point. Statistics say "stick packs in pro 2's = broken chassis"

and by twisting torque I meant like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BCSavage/Misc%20Pics/4cebb050.bmp

where the chassis has NO flex in this direction.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well my friend hasnt broken his yet :D show me the statistics :p

[BCSavage]

^^^ Read again, now includes picture. :D And just because your friend hasn't broken his doesn't mean a thing.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ah, nice picture... i even concluded that those were the weak points... maybe my friend is a careful driver?:D:p:D

[BCSavage]

lol, one can only assume ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Had the chassis be 3mm im prolly sure it wont snap... or at least add bit more carbon to the areas that are weak... ;)

[Quinton]

So is it easy (what needs to be done) to make my stick pack accepting Pro 2 accept saddle packs? Are they saddle packs or side by side packs? What's the difference?

Thanks

[TRF Drive Hard]

The stick packs have to use the stick pack mounting parts... much like the sport2 that comes with it... you cant really use the side by side packs because of the battery bars... unless you can jury rig it...

[BCSavage]

you can put a saddle pack in a stick pack car (I'm doing it now) you just put them in end-to-end

[][][][][][]

[microrcdude]

Well, if you have batterys with the 5-bar setup, it will fit just fine.

[hpi Pro2]

Guess what.....The kid that I bought a servo and the batteries off of, the servo is striped.

O yea the batteries theirs no saving them their done.

[microrcdude]

Guess what.....The kid that I bought a servo and the batteries off of, the servo is striped.

O yea the batteries theirs no saving them their done.
give him his stuff back, and get your money back.

[BCSavage]

no doubt, he may have sold this stuff to you knowing it was garbage.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'd say let God sort him out... :D

[hpi Pro2]

I gave him the batteries back and I'll see him in school on monday so ill give him the servo...he used to be the best person to buy used parts off of they always worked.

Good deal: Novak rooster 20$:-)

[hpi Pro2]

I have a really important question.

If you chip your front chasis so the bolts dont hold the front two casing screws,

can you use a screw with a large head almost the size of a washer and race it?

This is extreamly important because I can't just pay 60$ for a new chassis

Thanks

[BCSavage]

you run the risk of catching the head on the surface you are driving on, but it should work

[hpi Pro2]

well It's going to be a counter sink screw just with a washer built into the head.

[BCSavage]

I've got an issue. I'm running stock gearing (122/35 64pitch gears) and I think it's geared too low cuz my top end is sad and it gets to full speed within 10-15 feet from a dead stop. Is this normal or what should I change (smaller spur or bigger pinion?) Thanks.

[TRF Drive Hard]

What kinda motor you runnin?

[BCSavage]

Right now a Team Orion Rush 13turn

[hpi Pro2]

It sounds like the gearing I'd go with a smaller spur because their eazy to switch and only cost like 3$ each.

[BCSavage]

any rough estimates what I should start with for a spur? like how many teeth down should I go (just for a starting point).

[Rog]

any rough estimates what I should start with for a spur? like how many teeth down should I go (just for a starting point).

You can go up to a 37T pinion or stay with your 35T and go with a 116T spur and you'll end up around 7.00 FDR which should be a decent starting point for your motor.

[BCSavage]

Awesome, thanks.

[hpi Pro2]

:eek: I was just looking at a pro and it resembles my car a lot can anyone show me the difference between a pro and a pro2 please post pics of your chassis or anypart that is different on both cars.

Thank you.

[microrcdude]

i think the drivetrain is a little different

[BCSavage]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BCSavage/RS4/pro-c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v218/BCSavage/RS4/e42dc96b.jpg

minor differences:

Belt tensioner on Pro2 (not on Pro)
Metal parts on the pro are silver (Pro2 are purple)
Wheels are different
Shock towers on Pro are layered graphite (Pro2 has molded graphite)
Pro2 has MIP CVD's (Pro has universal drives, prolly HPI brand)
Pro2 has plastic spur holder (Pro has Aluminum)
I know the Pro2 has droop adjustment set-screws but I'm not sure about the Pro

http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/heritage/p-m.htm

[microrcdude]

also, the Pro came with 21mm wheels.

[BCSavage]

and it looks as if there is no place designated to mount a transponder

[microrcdude]

yep. But when you think about it, theres only a handfull of cars that come with a designated transponder spot.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im thinkin bout sellin my pro2...

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Im thinkin bout sellin my pro2...

if it's the JE japan edition... I'd be interested..if not what's all included in the car... lmk thanks.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i was in the process on restoring some parts... new c-hub, steering knuckle, and front bulkhead... what i didnt know was the front bulkhead, the upper brace for the upper links, the bulkhead is stripped from the screws... so like i said, i was in the process of restoring it... i bought it off my friend but as my 415 has been my addiction... i dont think i can support this chassis...

[murphy3688]

way off topic...

just got mine, and is there a way to convert it to shaft like the pro4? how much? thanks

-murphy

[BCSavage]

way off topic...

just got mine, and is there a way to convert it to shaft like the pro4? how much? thanks

-murphy

there prolly is, but it's not going to be cheap. You'd be better off just buying the pro4

[microrcdude]

Theres no way to cconvert it to shaft. You would end up spending about the same as a Pro 4

[murphy3688]

thanks.. too bad...

[GT Freak]

i used to have a pro 2, LLOOONNNGGG time ago.
Heres what i need/want to know:
1) are parts still out for this car?
2) are they still avaiable?
3) does anyone still run it?

[microrcdude]

Parts are avalable at tower. Tower has everything. And lots of people still run them. People at my LHS prefer this over some of the other cars.

[PCC]

Parts are still available for the car. The car itself is no longer available. People still run theirs, though mines is now a wallhanger.

[racer034life]

just bought this car today. Would like to know what people think of it. Also have any idea's for a good carpet set-up I.E body, camber caster shock weight and tires. Also here are the mods that came with the car
RPM ROBINSON RACING GREAR ADP
CROSS ALUMINUM MID BRASE
PURPLE MOTER PLATE
HPI REAR BELT TENSIONER CARBON FIBER
FRONT AND REAR BALL DIFFS
PURPLE CVDs FRONT AND REAR
PURPLE HEX WHEEL ADPTS
FRONT END LINK STIFFENERS
AIR SERVO STEERING 94102
TRANSPONDER HOLDER
PARRDOX MOTOR 27TURN SINGLE 22AWG 24 DEGREE
HPI PRO 2 HADLIN KIT (ROLL CENTER PLATE)LOWERS CAR AND STIFFENS Chassis
__________________________________________________ _______________

WTB ESC and Fm controller theard (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=187110)

[Grifter]

I need a pinion for my Sport. I figure they use the same size as a Pro, and this is the most active thread to get some info. Tower isn't any help.

Thanks.

[PCC]

PURPLE MOTER PLATE
FRONT AND REAR BALL DIFFS
PURPLE CVDs FRONT AND REAR
TRANSPONDER HOLDER
These are stock items that came with the Pro2.

[PCC]

I need a pinion for my Sport. I figure they use the same size as a Pro, and this is the most active thread to get some info. Tower isn't any help.

Thanks.
As far as I know, unless you changed the pinion since getting the car, it is a standard 48 pitch pinion that is available from HPI, Robinson Racing, etc. Just get the same tooth count as the original one.

[microrcdude]

the stock spur is i believe 90T 48P.

[racer034life]

just got my car and i bought a new set of proceed shocks and a new chassis and man this car is nice.......first race with this car in two weeks on a carpet track and one got suggestions

[MATTS]

Hi all !

I have been racing at my local club for the past 10 years (6cell On-road pancars RC10L2/RC10L3's and 6 cell Stock and 19T touring cars Xray Evo2 & FK) up here in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

The club recently started a 4 cell Stock motor Foam or Rubber tire sedan class (190mm, 3.0 lbs, 5mm min ride). I took one of my old pro2's, trew in a old ESC, broke 2 of my 3300's and made 3 x 4 cells packs and 2 dummy cells out of cheap similar size tubing, ran the pro 2 with a last minute setup against an entire field of 4 cells Xrays evo2's and FK's (some veteran drivers some newbies), I did excessively well 2 race days in a row lets just say.......

Between the First race day and the second race day (2 weeks apart) I redid the diff's, added weight, changed some seized up bearings, changed the old torned up bumper, redid the geometry (GOD was it ever crooked), changed the shocks for a set of Tamiya TRF shocks with ajustable collars because the only shocks I had where HPI ones with shims and I could not get close to tweaking the car correctly LOL.

Im in the process of building myself another Pro2 out of spare parts for an ABS drifter.

its a tank ! , I love it !

Cheers !

MATTS
www.rcottawa.com
www.hobby2000gatineau.com

[Bunsincunsin]

Hi! I recently got a set of hpi mip cvd's for my sport 2. There is a problem with the front ones though. The cvd bones seem too short and they just pop out, but the back ones are fine. I was just wondering what I could do to fix this and if any of you have had the same problem :confused:
I need help please!!
Thanks

[colinradford]

The front and rear ones are different lengths. Maybe you got them the wrong way round or bought 2 sets of the same size?

[Bunsincunsin]

Ya thats what I was thinking, because when I got them I got two sets of the rear axles and no front axles. But the package said that it was the front cvd's. It could be that I got two rear sets but the label was wrong, I don't know. So I had to order new front axles. I guess I'll try switching them though. Thanks

[Needler56]

does the pro 2 share the same parts as the original pro?

[nerbs101]

hey i have a pro 2 chassis that is brand new and is in carbon fiber. how much are they worth?

[Bunsincunsin]

hey i have a pro 2 chassis that is brand new and is in carbon fiber. how much are they worth?
I think you could probably sell it for 20-30$.

[nerbs101]

do u no anyone interested in it?

[Bunsincunsin]

No but you could post it in the buy/sell and trade forum, or put it on ebay.

[RS4rally1124]

ok so im getting back into tc's... i have lots of experiance with my original car which was a hpi rs4rally car... ive loved it and modded it to hell but it doesnt like carpet racing so im looking into a pro 2 as they seem rather sinilar.... if im correct the rally is a moddified original rs4 sport based off the first pro.... how different is the pro 2 and is it still competative??? from the lookjs of them they seem really nice and personally i dont like shaft driven and the pro 3 is so so... i liek the pro 2 best as of now for affordable and good car


thnx

JT

[kvector]

Anybody know where I can get a stick pack chassis for the Pro 2 in the US? I found http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/ but they are in the UK and the exchange rate at the moment is just about a killer right now.

[Philly's Finest]

Tower Hobbies sells them. Although it would be cheaper to build them yourself if you plan on racing the pro2.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=saddle+pack&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

[Bunsincunsin]

Do you mean a whole other chassis or just battery packs? If you mean a whole other chassis than I don't know where to find one, maybe try ebay.

[nerbs101]

i have a whole another chassis thats cf and brand new for the pro2.

[kvector]

I was thinking of the second chassis (the stick pack one) pictured here. http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/hpi/pro2.gif

This is the only place I have seen selling anything like it. I know the car is old and hard to find parts for, but I'm just trying to figure out if this place is my only option for finding something like this.

Thanks for the help.

[Bunsincunsin]

I think that the place you are looking at would probably be your best bet for a different chassis, otherwise you would have to make something custom, because I have never seen a different chassis like that made for the pro 2.

[Bunsincunsin]

Oh, by the way does anyone know where I could find the carbon fibre front shock tower?

[kvector]

Might want to keep an eye on eBay for one or call some hobby shops that aren't too far from you.

I'm almost certain the Hobbytown near me has one in their case of old HPI parts. Thankfully they've managed to keep a good supply of some of the older stuff I needed for this car.

[nerbs101]

well i had 3 saddle pack chassis and im down to one so i dont have a use for it.

[kvector]

Also does anybody have any gearing recommendations (48p) for a stock and a 12 turn double motor in a Pro 2? The folks I've talked to weren't sure what to recommend because the transmission ratio is different.

[Bunsincunsin]

I think I used the stock spur gear and a 20, 21, or 22 pinion when I had a 12t, and that kept the motor running prety cool.


Has anyone used the graphite handling kit rear-top plate from HPI? What exactly does it do to help the car handle better? And where does it mount to the chassis?

[microrcdude]

for a stock motor i use 24/91

[nismoracer]

g'day

got my hands on a loaded pro 2 dirt cheap, only its missing the front bumper

does anyone know the part number so i can order it in?
also wondering- does it come with the front body posts? as my car doesnt have them either

thanks

[kvector]

g'day

got my hands on a loaded pro 2 dirt cheap, only its missing the front bumper

does anyone know the part number so i can order it in?
also wondering- does it come with the front body posts? as my car doesnt have them either

thanks

The stock parts are located here in the instruction manual here.
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/p2/pro2-13.jpg

The foam piece is part no. 6274.

There's also a smaller from bumper mount out there I use on my Pro2, it's from the RS4 Mini as shown here (A350):
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/emini/emini-014.jpg
The same body posts and foam bumper works with this mount too.

[nismoracer]

cheers
thanks very muchly!

parts ordered :)

[nismoracer]

anyone know if 4200's will fit in this car?

either way i ordered a couple of packs today-see what happens... :D

[microrcdude]

Im pretty sure you can, ive used big 3300's in one, and they are about the same size of the 4200.

[Bunsincunsin]

anyone know if 4200's will fit in this car?

either way i ordered a couple of packs today-see what happens... :D
Yes, they do fit that's what I run!

[nismoracer]

cool! i didnt think anyone actually drove these classic HPI's anymore

oh..i put a stick pack in the car and taped it down..the chassis has started to split and delaminate where the pack was held in...if u guys have sticks, dont put them in!! convert them to saddle- the weight distribution gets shot to hell if you dont..

thats weird..why do i always make a post at the end or start of the year.. :huh:

[kvector]

cool! i didnt think anyone actually drove these classic HPI's anymore

oh..i put a stick pack in the car and taped it down..the chassis has started to split and delaminate where the pack was held in...if u guys have sticks, dont put them in!! convert them to saddle- the weight distribution gets shot to hell if you dont..

thats weird..why do i always make a post at the end or start of the year.. :huh:
I got the stick pack chassis made for this car since my other car only takes stick packs. Works really good and I don't have to worry about breaking another chassis. Oh, and my 3800's BARELY fit in the stick pack holders.

Glad to see other people are still using this car. I don't feel like forking out more money for a totally new chassis and hop-ups. I'd already spent too much on stuff for my Pro2. Classic HPI will do for me. :-)

[Bunsincunsin]

Do you guys race your Pro 2's? Are they still competitive?

[nomac]

we have an off-road racer at our track that has one. he's my closest rival and i drive a pro4.

[E-LST]

Pete, check the pro3 thread and look at my "new and improved" pro3. hahahaha

[nomac]

saw it...nice work!!! but that chassis just BEGS to have a Checkpoint 8x2 in it. LOL!!!! glad to see the old cars still being raced. i've had every electric tourer hpi put out...from the RS4 to the Pro4 (still running it) and IMO the pro2 was the best "Racecar" they had. but the pro3 wasn't very far behind. ;)

[nismoracer]

to reply an earlier post,

i just took my HPI pro 2 to my very first race (and its very first race)

in 2 qualifying heats, i qualified 1st in both

in 3 race heats, i came 1st overall

car never had to be adjusted at all- all i had to do was rotate the tyres!

it was quite funny, because i took all my old equipment to the track 2pcka, and old motors ( i was running 540 class), and was running against much more recent chassis- TRF 415's wearing tyre warmers, and battery equalizers and spektrum systems

one of my competitors asked me what car it was and whether it was underweight or not- i said it most probably wasnt (1500g is the limit) so he weighed my car and it was 1600g! that shut him up... :rolleyes:

haha had a great time...great chassis...

on another note- i stuck a novak ss5800 into the pro 2 and geared it at 8:1 (a little conservative i know) - with my new 4200's, my mate timed how long it would last- 16 and a half minutes going full bore around the local race track before the batteries dumped...my arms getting tired from holding the transmitter so long