miss bud

[steve01]

does anyone have any videos of the horizon miss bud if so
can you post them?
thanks

[daniel hallman]

Log on to www.horizonhobby.com. Got to warn you though, when I saw it ,I bought it. It really is a pretty rig but be forewarned, it goes pretty fast, BUT ONLY IN RIGHT HAND TURNS!Try a quick left hander at speed and there probably wont be enough pieces to bother with picking up. Hope you have a blast with it if you get one.:cool: :cool: :cool:

[KG4]

I finally ran mine and i couldnt believe how fast it was.Very cool boat and it flies.

[Dirt Dummy]

I thought it was the slowest boat i ever had! i put a HPI.15SS in it heres a video. http://www.midmad.com/video/miss bud.wmv

[shreader269]

It looks like it is moving pretty good! I like the video.
Is the HPI motor alot faster then stock? why did you change it?
Mine seam to run very fast also, but no video. What prop are you running on that HPI motor? what mix of nitro?

[Dirt Dummy]

That was the second tank of 40%. It has an octura prop. After breaking in the stock motor i was depressed by its lack of performance!

[shreader269]

Is the HPI motor Water cooled? Was it a direct fit or did you have to do mods to fit? What about porting the stock .15 will that help for more top end speed?

[Dirt Dummy]

I modify the stock head to fit the ss. ther are a couple other changes. Need to change the stock pipe now.

[smackdn775]

can anyone tell me where i can buy a miss budweiser boat. i am tired of waiting for horizon, and there back order list.

[Ron Olson]

There have been a few on eBay but they are going for some high prices plus ripping people off on the shipping charges. I guess it depends on how badly you want one.

[Dirt Dummy]

Ron"s right! And their not worth the high price stock. We heard that they will be back in the end of oct. I know they always say that.

[smackdn775]

Thanks guys, I always forget to look at STORMERHOBBIES they usually have just about everything in stock and sure nuff they did. put mine on order and should have it by Sat. @$299.00

[KG4]

Your gonna love it.Have fun

[daniel hallman]

Been tinkering with my MISS BUD, after I pitched the cover for the radio gear I made another one out of a little thicker plastic that was just laying around. Now what I'd like to do next is to get rid of that open slide switch . Any suggestions as to a good source for a waterproof toggle switch? Don't tell me to check with my local hobby shop, hell, I'm the first one that they've sold a boat to in a year and a half!!! Need a little help here.. Thanks, THE LAB RAT... :cool: :confused: :cool:

[eki15]

to water proof my switch i put a small water balloon over it but cut off the end of it. then just take your switch and put it half way in the balloon then screw it back to the plastic

[Ron Olson]

Most Hobby Shops carry the Du-Bro switch mount, even plane guys use these .
BTW, you've got mail.

[shreader269]

I have been trying to tune my new boat, The manual states to start at 3 1/2 turns out on the main. Well at 3 1/2 it runs poorly for about a minute or so and then want to die. I have done nothing to the other setteing.
I now have it at about 4 1/2 out and seam to run much better. but is this correct. I am new to the Nitro thing and am all mixed up:confused: :confused: :confused:

Anyone with the NEW Miss Budweiser have any advise, What are you running yours at??:D

[Ron Olson]

Too many things affect needle settings for anyone to give you a "right" setting. Air temp, water temp, humidity, altitude, the alignment of the stars (not really) are factors that will apply to yours. This is what makes running nitro a challenge. Try setting the carb where it has a little lag in it when you rev the motor, the prop will lean it out once it's in the water.

[Dirt Dummy]

I ran my stock motor alot fatter than the manual said. Ron sumed it up good in his post. But don"t worry about runing it richer then what the manual said.

[Pagemaster]

I use a radio shack toggle switch. They sell a water proof cover that has an oring at the base.

[HOBBYSHOPDUDE]

I found some cool vids of the miss bud and the shockwave at www.harcohobbies.com .:)

[gghost]

Anyone had a problem with the prop driveshaft housing? The Hobbytown here in Indy has sold 4 and all came back with the housing seperating from the boat. The guys there said they were replaced (new boat) and 3 came back again with the same trouble. The guy said he knows the one boat and that it hasn't been abused. Is this a big problem? I wanted to try and get one but after hearing that I kind of cooled on the idea. The last thing I need is another high maintenance machine. Running helicopters and trucks now. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Eric Perez]

Well, I took the plunge and finally bought me one of these.

The boat is okay on a scale of 1-10 quality is in the 7 range. The boat looks nice but when you look at the running surfaces you notice some minor inperfections and the bloody thick clear coat dulls many of the nice features of the ride pads on the boat. Even though the boat is fiberglass the roundness from the clear coat makes it look like it was vaccumed formed ABS.

I'm not saying the boat is not beautifull it's just not sharp where it needs to be.

The fuel tank support have already given up on my boat. I stuffed a piece of styrofoam in the nose of the boat to support the fuel tank.

Also the hull does not appear to have enough foam flotation installed. There are two small blocks inside the front sponsons. That's it. I basically stuffed the hull full with boards of styrofoam. I suggest you do the same.

The engine has a little bit of machining crud left on the lip of the exhaust port (Not good). Appart from that I did not find any flaws with the engine. The pull start mechanism is also fairly good. Better than average but not the best. The fuel tubbing on my pull start handle has already started to come off. I will replace with a piece of plastic tube.

On the engine:

The engine works well, but it does not have a whole lot of RPM. I'm thinking the intake timing needs to be increased. I still have not finished breaking it in so I'm not going to say it has no potential. The carb seems to hold it's setting and the needles do what they are supposed to do. The engine was very well mannered even during break-in it was

Running the boat:

It will take you a couple of tries before you learn how to launch the boat properly. You don't need a lot of speed just a nice flat toss.

The boat is not very responsive out on the water, it's like driving a cadillac. But it is stable and can handle a little wind and chop without loosing composure. Just what a beginner wants.

After a couple of minutes out on the water my hull appears to be taking a considerable amount of water. I think it is coming from the prop-shaft. I'm not sure I will do a bath tub test soon. I will also be installing an auto-bailer in the outside rear sponson to help drain water after a run and to alliviate any serious water problems.

Speed:

I've got no radar gun but it's probably in the 25 MPH arena. This weekend I will get someone to do a radar-gun check.


Radio box:

This section of the boat is not really what you can call a water-proof radio box. Even with good quality tape and a lot of patience water still gets in there. The foam that is used to protect the receiver and AA bateries is not closed cell foam. What this means to you is that the water will be sucked into the foam and you batteries and receiver will be soaked in water at the first mention of the word "moisture" inside the radio box. Change to ballons and latex foam ASAP.

Racing:

I belong to the RC Thunder Boat club in Carrollton TX. We are going to start a class just for 1/12 Hydros specifically the Miss Bud -because of it's poplarity. None of the Hobby shop around here can keep their stock of Miss Budwisers for more than a week.

I will be reporting back periodically to this msg. board to tell you how this transition from RTR play-thing to full blown oval nitro racer goes. I'm expecting to hit a couple of snags along the way but- If you stick with me your boat will run like a bat out of hell!

[Ron Olson]

Good luck this weekend. Try to keep Rip Holdridge's hands off of it! :D

[Eric Perez]

Well, after putting an auto-bailer in the right rear step the hull is not loading up with water anymore. The boat won the .21 hydro class with a lot of luck on it's side. The water was a litte choppy with plenty of wind. The boat took the wind and the chop with authority. I only got worried once -but the hull quickly recovered and I was back on the gas.

Electronics got wet again but the corrosion X aparently did it's job and I never got any glitches. I will coat the receiver with 20 minute finishing epoxy next time. Less weight and no chance of water induced failures.

The plastic prop is still running okay. I have a metal Y535 which is as close to a direct replacement as you can get- but I was running so good. Perfect plane, no hopping or spinouts or jumps... It was just running nice and flat.

I installed the spare plastic Y534 prop on a .12 catamran and after a spectacular blow-over it broke half of a blade. So I suggest you get the Y535 or a few plastic spares if you don't want to balance any props.

Anyway the Miss Budwiser won the B-Hydro class, lots of wind and semi-rough water in the straight-a-way caused the other 2 hydros to blow-over, others had problems in launch. It was luck I guess... But the boat did win! Did the mill and the 6 laps with fuel to spare.

[KG4]

EXCELLENT!!!! I am going to install a .21 in my bud.Great job and keep me posted on any other races.BUD THUNDER RULES!!!!!

[KG4]

DId you race it with the .15 dynamite?

[Eric Perez]

Yes, the hull still has the stock .15 engine running 10% Wildcat fuel with 18% lubricant blend. I'm still using the same plug that came in the engine. I will install a hot plug and run 15% after I finish the 10% fuel out. Engine is running nice and cool it will run till is runs out of fuel.

Keep in mind that the .21 riggers that my boat was running against were set up to run at high speeds. The wind and water conditions did not realy agree with their fast setup. Can't realy run a high-strung rigger slow if you know what I mean.

The hull has space to run a .21 engine. Fuel tank will probably need to be moved along side the engine in a side by side configuration. Don't know if the hull is strong enough for a belt starter...

I own an air cooled Ofna .21 pull start engine brand new and in the box. I might try to run this setup with a water cooled conversion, but I'm afraid of tearing the boat appart. It would be a pitty to mess it up.

[riche]

I was very fortunate that my hobby store had one and I have been loving every day after the one I bought it!!!!!!!

My only hang-ups are I wonder about the radio some times, and I can't tell if it is b/c of its "water tight radio box"
the balloon on the radio switch idea I saw on the board seems to work well but I think that my push rod sleeves are the culprit right now...has anyone found some good replacements for them?
for what the boat costs I am very happy with is performance, but I can't wait till the ole .15 starts to lose some punch!!!!!

if anyone gets a good steering upgrade they better post it soon.... the bank has come a little to close a couple of times!!!!!

thanks,
Richard

[laxmasta2039]

eric,
sounds great!!
for anyone who wants to upgrade to a .21, i know a guy who has 70 [yes, 70] OS .21s complete w/ pullstart and flywheel that would be good to start with, street price [towerhobbies price] 190.00, he's selling them for 100$. i'm gonna get one for my .21 mono, so im hoping someone else will get one also so we can compare results and help w/ troubleshooting.
also, defenitely keep posted about what your doing to the thing, i've got a bunch of ideas to help get that thing on the winner's podium.


joe

[Ron Olson]

If you want to wake that puppy up some more, try increasing the nitro. It should be able to take 40%, we've tried some 50% that I had and it really came alive! Look for nitro with 20% oil content to make the engine last longer. If you can't find it, therer are oil additives available.

[laxmasta2039]

ron,
how hard/expensive is it to add oil? is it as simple as pouring a little bottle of oil into a quart or gallon container and shaking it up?

joe

[Ron Olson]

Yeah, it's about that easy. You shouldn't need much, about 1 or 2 ounces. There used to be an additive called Snake Oil that Hobby Shops used to carry as an oil additive for R/C cars and trucks that would work also.

[laxmasta2039]

cool,
i'll look into it.

joe

[Hammerhead]

Hey you guys! Caught you! Hey Laxmasta. Your tryin' to sell my engines. Gonna have to give ya a deal if some one buys some.

Well, I don't wanna jump in here like I own the place. So I will just say, that I have two of these Buds on the way. Should be here soon. I'm glad Ron introduced me to this forum. Now I will be able to see what you guys are doing with the Bud to make it work. From what I've read so far, it looks like I'm gonna have to do some work on the radio compartment before I even take it to the pond. If any water gets in to the switch or the compartment at all, it shouldn't even be considered a water proof box. Gonna have to take a look at the push rod seals and replace the switch right off the bat. I have a load of O.S .21SE-MX engines with pull starts, but I'm gonna wait and see what the dynamite .15 has to offer before I do any engine changing. I also have a V937 that will be collared to fit the shaft. I will give it a try after I give the stock prop a chance. I will be running my own 22% Klotz oil blend of 45% nitro methane fuel in it. I think that it will meet it's potential with that, and at the same time last a long time. Klotz is good and cheap and you just follow the directions for the mix ratio, and you will do fine.


I will keep in touch when I get everything in and see it with my own eyes. Can't beat 299 with what it comes with.

Check out my threads on www.intlwaters.com


Take care ya all! Laxmasta! I miss ya! Come on back.

Hammer

[Ron Olson]

Hammerhead's postings show what they are doing across the left pond, truly a lot of out-of-the-box thinking going on over in Japan! He has posted pages of pictures of some really interesting stuff, one of my favorites is the "Left Hook". Marty, how about throwing a shot of it in here?

[Hammerhead]

Hey Ron! I tried to post a pic of it, but this forum doesn't allow enough memory for it.

[Hammerhead]

Let's give it another try.

It worked after cutting it down in size a bit.

This is it. The Left Hook. Getting quite a bit of attention in other forums. You can see a video of Japanese time trials if you go to intlwaters and check out the thread on 2002 nats in Japan. The left hook is the first performance in the vid.

Enough of this. Let's get back to the bud.

Hammer

[rcboats2]

Guys,

I found one Ms. Bud sitting on the hobby shelf and it's been there a while. If you want it call Franciscan Hobbies in San Francisco, CA @ (415)584-3919 ask for Billy. Pretty sure that's the right number if not call 411 and ask for it, it's on Ocean AVE. They won't rape you on the shipping charges.

[CS1329SC]

Hey Eric,

I also have a Miss Bud that loads up with water. I was wondering if you could post a picture of your boat, so I can get a better idea of where you placed the auto-bailer, or maybe just a better description. Would be great help. Thanks

[Eric Perez]

Well, before I installed the Auto-bailer I could not even finish a tank of gas. After I could easily mill + do 6 laps and had fuel to spare.

My pit-buddy also noticed this when he picked up the hull after a run it was not 5 lbs. heavier than when he launched it like it did the weekend before. The Auto bailer is installed in the lower left rear sponson. The botton of the auto-bailer is almost flush with the bottom of the ski.

I will post pictures tonight when I get back to the secret rc-laboratory...

[Eric Perez]

Here is a pic of my installation. CA was used to hold it in place. Clear silicone or Epoxy will also work.

[CS1329SC]

Eric
Thanks so much for the pic, this is a big help. Hopefully this will solve my problem. Thanks again for the info. Look foward to more info on the Miss Bud in the future.

Thanks Chris

[riche]

Has anyone found someone with replacement parts in stock?
I have had trouble with my prop drive dog bone, (I created the problem) but it has caused my stuffing box to separated from the hull... (yes it happened to me!!!!) I know the prop is an y534 and octura said that they only make it with a 1/8" shaft. but I noticed the shaft on the miss bud is smaller.

does everyone's boat have allot of endplay on the driveshaft? my boat has allot of play like the stuffing box is not the right size for the shaft.... I can tell that the stuffing box has some king of liner or bushing at the top(of the stuffing box). but it doesn't seam to have one at the bottom. should I put a piece of copper tubing in there at the bottom of the shaft tube to make up the difference in the diameter of the tube/shaft?

I have limited experience with boats but I don't feel that my tube shaft is right. I think it is the reason that the stuffing box/shaft tube has separated from my hull(partially)... any input would help guys....

thanks allot,
Riche

[nitrofan]

I would like to add both to my Bud
Does anyone have the information on where
I can get them. A previous post stated someone
had some .21 for 100.00?

[Ron Olson]

Aeromarine and Warehouse Hobbies both sell them.

[Hammerhead]

I have 59 O.S SE-MX engines left. Brand new! 100 bucks a pop! Same specs as the O.S outboard power head. They have recoils included. Never been taken out of the boxes.They are perfect for this type of boat. You will have to beef up the stuffing tube and flex shaft to .187 though. It will mess up the .150 stuff. You will be able to swing prather 215-220 with no problems.

Mail me at mach89mahaart@icqmail.com

Hammer

[Eric Perez]

Hammer, the boat uses a straight 1/8 steel shaft. A .125 drill blank will hold the power of a .21 engine but the shaft will need to be sleeved at the the end to accept the larger props that a .21 will be able to swing.

I guess we have not realy gone into the details of a 3.5 conversion. The prop is directly underneath the tunnel floor, so a much larger prop will hit the hull. Unless you go with a 3-blade prop to keep the diameter under 37mm you are going to run into problems.

If you gut the entire drive system and get new hardware so you can run a flex-shaft part of the problem gets resolved... But that's more than the average modeler wants to chew.

I still think getting a water cooled Traxxas 2.5 engine with pull-start to be the most painless way of getting better performance without destroying the hull in the process. I have a modified TRX15 that was able to pull some big props in my BBY-Hydro this will be my next engine for this hull.

I also got some 50% Nitro fuel to try with the Dynamite engine. Hopefully everything will work okay. I'm still running the stock engine no telling how well it will respond to some porting.

If you want to wake up the boats handling get you some nice CNC aluminum hardware. I've got some I can try you can find some smaller hardware sets at

http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm

[laxmasta2039]

eric,
ive never even looked @ a miss bud up close, so this is a shot in the dark, but do you think it would be easier to convert to a 3/16" dia. shaft instead of .187? the prather 215, 220, and all the appropriate octura props have a 3/16" dia., so ya dont hafta use a sleeve.....
then again, Dumas's 1/8" stuffing tube slides snugly onto a 1/8" shaft, and then has a dia. of 3/16"...this is what im using on my .18-powered cat, i just soldered the tubing to the flexshaft.


joe

[Hammerhead]

Hey Laxmasta! .187 is 3/16
Hammer

[Eric Perez]

Lax, check your calculator 3/16 = .1875

If you want to step up a 1/8 (0.125) shaft all you need is some K&B telescoping brass tubing 3/16 OD and 5/32 OD. You can use loctite RED to joing them. Octura sells a low profile drive-dog that is specifically designed for the smaller props in the 37-40mm range.

Here is a pic of the installation.

[Eric Perez]

Don't forget to extend the 1/8 saft enough to install a 1/8 airplane wheel collar. This will prevent the prop from falling off in the unlikely event that the loctite and/or braze joint should fail.

If you are real gunho you can cut threads into the 1/8 shaft and install a lock-nut.

I used a 1/8 drive dog for the picture, couldn't find a 1/8 wheel-collar in my bone-yard.

[laxmasta2039]

oh,
my B!! :)
ive heard guys talking about using .187 instead of "stepping all the way up to 3/16", and i never thought that they could be "talkin' smack"........in that case, go to .187 by all means.
eric, im another fan of ray's hardware, he should stop making it under a fast elec title, it's great for little nitros too.


joe

[laxmasta2039]

that shaft looks alot like mine, i used a single piece of tubing, and left the threaded part [this is using a fuller's 1/8"flexshaft] out so i could put on a couple stopscrews......using a prather 215 with a 3/16" drive dog on the tubing. also, if you leave the tubing a tiny bit short of the strut, putting a couple washers or a thrust bearing is good for your engine, [hammer, ur the guy who enlightened me on this if you remeber] just leave some room for the flexhshaft to tighten up 'cuz it will.


joe

[Hammerhead]

Well, you may be right Lax, but when you buy parts from octura.or flex cable in large quantities, they usually refer to the parts as 3/16 or .187. I have bought 3/16 flex cable in bulk before and made cables to sell in Japan to Seaducer freaks and I was soldering .187 ferrules on them. I didn't need to reem the ferrules. I think it is just that the parts companies are rounding the 5 of the stock number.1875 when the parts are really 3/16, Or... the 3/16 stuff is really a tad bit smaller.
Hammer

[laxmasta2039]

yea,
thats a good question, i wonder if the 3/16" stuff is a little smaller,
i would think they would round up to .188 if that was the case.....
it doenst make much of a difference though, so im gonna try not to lose too much sleep over it. :)

joe

[Hammerhead]

Good idea Joe!
Me either!
You thinkin' about gettin a budweiser?
Hammer

[Hammerhead]

Good idea Joe!
Me either!
You thinkin' about gettin a budweiser?
Hammer

[laxmasta2039]

it would be a fun thing to do, if i did i would try to convert to .21 though- right now, my only race-quality boat is .18 powered, and im trying to find something that i can race with next spring in the IMPBA races nearby.....hopefully a .21 mono outfitted w/ one of your OS .21s for starters [untill im ready to power with something more competetive]

joe

[Hammerhead]

Hey Joe!
I just bought 5 aeromarine 31" challengers from Chris Fine at Firefox. 118.50 each. I bought five to make RTRs with some of the .21s that I have. They are a pretty good boat for a beginner. I don't know if you can find anything cheaper. I bought 5 so maybe he gave me a good deal. Comes with engine mount rails and hatch. Interested? Give him a mail

[Ron Olson]

Joe, now that you know John Finch, you ought to talk to him about one of Wild Thing .21 monos. A friend of mine built one and it's one nice handling boat! you've got the designer of the hul right there if you need help.

[laxmasta2039]

ron-
ya, the wild thing sounds like the obvious best choice, but im still finishing up my .18, and this time i wanna use a fiberglass preformed instead of scratched built....hopefully john will be nice enough to help me w/ a hull he didtn design :)

hammer- that sounds like a really good deal, i'll ask chris [finedesign.com, right?] 'bout it, but he probably just did that 'cuz you bought five.....worth a try.


joe

[laxmasta2039]

eric, i just took a closer look @ your drive shaft setup and i've got a suggestion for ya- use a collar instead of a dog [one without teeth] on the end of your shaft, or file off the teeth on the dog.....otherwise the teeth will create resistance when they spin in the water, like a prop that doesnt have any pushing force.


joe

[Ron Olson]

Joe, go back and read Eric's posting again. He said that he used the drive dog in the picture only because he couldn't find the collar.

[laxmasta2039]

whoops,
that must be why i didnt notice anything strange the first time i looked at it.

joe

b.t.w.,
my .18 project is nearly complete, pics coming soon.

[riche]

I was just wondering if anyone has taken their prop drive dog off their Miss Bud and tries to put it on a .125 shaft?
it seems smaller than my .125 dog that I have on my electric that I built using octura hardware... and it won't fit on the .125 shaft I am using, but my octura .125 prop drive dog bone will fit on it(miss bud shaft)....

did pro-boat / horizon go a little bit smaller that .125 on their shaft size? It looks like it is .125 and a .125 prop drive dog bone will fit on it, but the fact that I can't put the miss bud drive dog on my (electric) boat raises my eyebrow..... :confused:

the reason that I am asking is b/c I need a new drive dog. should I just use a 1/8 octura or get the exact one from horizon?

Thanks guys,
Riche

[Ron Olson]

If your electric Bud is from another Company like MRP, it might have a smaller shaft like 5 mm.

[riche]

no it is a scratch built. a Garry Finlay 1976 sprint hull.
that is what I can't understand. I used a .125 rod for my prop shaft. with a octura .125 prop drive dog and a dumas double u joint at motor...

I was just wondering if someone had the time to pull their drive dog off their boat(miss bud) and stick it on a .125 shaft just to see if I am crazy...
I will use an octura drive dog but I would like to go back with what horizon is using. The only problem is that they don't have any in stock... and I know it sounds like I am crazy buy just look at the prop on the shaft it does not fit snug on the shaft either.... what I am trying to say is that I am somewhat of a worry-wart and I want to make sure I am using the right part... the case may be that the shaft is just under.125 and that is just fine... I just want to make sure.

thanks for replying Ron,
Riche

[Eric Perez]

Well, I measured the miss bud drive-shaft last weekend. It is 3mm, this is .118" instead of the .125 that we are used to seeing. If you'de like you can probably fit a K&B 1/8 SS shaft to this boat and be happy. I installed a Y535 on the boat last weekend and everything appears to fit okay, the prop is a little loose until you tighten the prop-nut. Didn't pick up any wierd vibrations. Still haven't tested on the water with the Y535. Octura props tend to be a little on the tight side of 1/8 so if you buy a new one for your miss bud it will work in your favor.

I also tested the boat on 50% nitro. Ran okay, don't forget to richen the needles when bumping the nitro. Without a pipe length change I did not notice a lot of difference over the 5% that I was using before, the wind and water conditions where taxing the boat considerably so the verdit will have to wait until I get better water.

The receiver on the bud is a through-hole job. Very poorly executed and very moisture sensitive. I will epoxy this piece of junk and see if it will work submerged like my epoxied hi-tech surface-mount revceiver does.

I did flip the boat last time I ran it. Just did a side flip, nothing spectacular, it was over before I even noticed it was in trouble. Water was not rough but the wind was a blowing... and once again water got in the radio-box!

$300.00 boat with a 50 cent radio box...

[riche]

Thanks for proving to me that I am not crazy Eric. I thought that shaft looked small but without a mic. I would never tell... do you think I should just order a 1/8" drive dog from octura?
or is there someone that makes a 3mm prop. drive dog?

and I gave up on trying to seal my radio box... I went and got some large balloons from Wal-Mart and wrapped the receiver with a piece of paper towel then stretched the balloon around it then tie-wrapped it shut... when the radio box gets allot of water I just open it up and let it air out a bit.... I have been glitch free since then...

[nitrovegas]

hey Eric where exactly did you put the auto bailer on the miss budweiser? If you could tell me that, thanks.:confused:

[nitrovegas]

Originally posted by Eric Perez
Well, after putting an auto-bailer in the right rear step the hull is not loading up with water anymore. The boat won the .21 hydro class with a lot of luck on it's side. The water was a litte choppy with plenty of wind. The boat took the wind and the chop with authority. I only got worried once -but the hull quickly recovered and I was back on the gas.

Electronics got wet again but the corrosion X aparently did it's job and I never got any glitches. I will coat the receiver with 20 minute finishing epoxy next time. Less weight and no chance of water induced failures.

The plastic prop is still running okay. I have a metal Y535 which is as close to a direct replacement as you can get- but I was running so good. Perfect plane, no hopping or spinouts or jumps... It was just running nice and flat.

I installed the spare plastic Y534 prop on a .12 catamran and after a spectacular blow-over it broke half of a blade. So I suggest you get the Y535 or a few plastic spares if you don't want to balance any props.

Anyway the Miss Budwiser won the B-Hydro class, lots of wind and semi-rough water in the straight-a-way caused the other 2 hydros to blow-over, others had problems in launch. It was luck I guess... But the boat did win! Did the mill and the 6 laps with fuel to spare.

[CS1329SC]

NitroVegas,
Check page two, you will find an actual picture of the auto-bailer installed. Check it out. :D

Chris

[nitrovegas]

Thanks!

Jason

[Hammerhead]

Those push rod seals suck!
We changed to the accordian type, replaced the switches with a water proof switch mount with futaba switches on them. Neither of our boats leak now. We still need to get our hands on some one way bilge drains. After we get them installed, we'll be in business.
Hammer

[nitrovegas]

Has anyone had a problem with their miss buds dive shaft seperating from the drive dog when the small pin that holds them together comes out?? It was really diapointing never even got to run it yet, I was still breaking it in.:mad:

Jason

[CS1329SC]

Nitrovegas,

It's happened to me twice so far. It's not hard to fix, just takes about an hour. You have to take the engine out of the boat, remove the pull start, lock the piston in place, so you can remove the old drive dog and replace with a new one. The new drive dog comes all apart. You have to push the new pin into place to lock it all together. Reinstall the engine, the trickiest part is aligning the drive dog, nylon spacer together so you can push the drive shaft in. Like I said before, it's not that hard to do, just takes so time. I now keep extra drive dogs on hand. Good Luck.

PS any problems reply back or email me:D

Chris

[laxmasta2039]

hey guys,
i dont have a Miss Bud myself, but out of experience with other drive systems and dogs, i think it might be helpful to get a higher-quality dog for the connection while your at it. [if you're already hafting to take apart the system and buy a new dog]


joe

[nitrovegas]

Thanks for the information Chris. I'll have to look into that. Where do you get your drive dogs?? I went to horizon and they are sold out. Thanks

Jason

[Eric Perez]

I must be the luckiest guy. My Miss-Bud appears to be a version 2.0

Here is what the factory did to fix the problem.

They installed a brass collar that surrounds the drive-cup and prevents the drive dog pin from moving on you.

[CS1329SC]

Hey Eric, my boat has the same drive dog as yours. The first time my drive dog broke, it shot the pin right through the brass collar. The second time, I was pulling my shaft out for maintenance and the ball cup and pin backed right out. Hopefully the new one I've put on will hold for awhile. Maybe an upgrade is needed.

Thanks Chris.

[nitrovegas]

Hey mine also shot right through the collar.

[Eric Perez]

Shot right trough the brass collar! Man, that is bad luck. OS makes a drive-dog link but it's for 5mm smooth shaft. Traxxas also makes a dog but it is for 4mm shaft.

With some elbow grease you may be able to get one of these in to work.

I will take mine appart this week to see if the pin has moved any.

[nitrovegas]

Does anyone know of a good drive dog upgrade for the miss bud??

Jason

[Eric Perez]

Well after taking the engine appart on the last run I found the source of the water leak into the hull...

One of the O-rings that sealed the water cooling jacket in place was being pinched by the water cooling head base. After re-assembling the cooling head there was ZERO water in the hull - Like It never hit the water.

There are 4 brown o-rings that seal the openings for the 3mm head screws. then there is another very thin green o-ring that seals arround the glow-plug opening near the top of the head button... Then there is another black o-ring that goes arround the combustion button that seals against the red anodized top-cap. I have no idea why this thing leaks at all. It only has 6 o-rings

My Traxxas water cooling head has no o-rings and it doesn't leak. Maybe more o-rings are not the answer.
I also opened up the ports on the engine sleeve and increased the timing. The engine sounded rough on shore but ran well out in the open. I'm still working on new pipe-length with modified engine and with higher nitro fuels.

Update on the drive-dog...

My pin is also loose. The plan is to get some piano wire that is larger than the stock pin and use some red loctite on it. This will help lengthen the life of the stock parts.

After this idea fails I will install a wire-drive on the Miss-Bud. Hey the electric guys are doing it it should work for the small nitro hulls too!

[neverenufpwr]

Whats the biggest motor i can put in this without to much modification???????

[aamick1971]

has anyone had any experice on this motor an o.s.15max-mx? I got a really good deal on this motor.this is a marine motor,that i plan on putting in my miss bud.Ihave also change the prop tube to a single one pice tube and adding a octura x435 prop to it.will this set up help it run faster or should i leave the stock .15 in there .i'll be running 40% nitro in it.can anyone help? thanks, allen:confused:

[Ron Olson]

The OS is a better engine than the Dynamite so go for it!
I've heard of the water fittings leaking also at the cooling head. Those are worth checking out also.

[playa595]

hey dirt dumbie that boat looked pretty damn fast to me how about you show me a fast boat....the fasted one you ever had....and make it a video

[Dirt Dummy]

Originally posted by playa595
hey dirt dumbie that boat looked pretty damn fast to me how about you show me a fast boat....the fasted one you ever had....and make it a video Go to www.midmad.com click on forum and look under boats