Radio Control Zone

Nitro engine buying guide

slaf — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:13:22 GMT

Here is a small nitro engine buying guide -> http://www.myrcbox.com/?p=2085

Whatever happened to...R/C hot rodding?

Furyous — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:58:18 GMT

I came back to the hobby last year after being gone for about 15. One of my fondest memories was seeing some of the crazy home-built contraptions that graced the pages of R/C car action magazine that were musclecars, hot rods, street rods, you name it. I remember a true v-8 powered 1/5 scale rod, a "Grumpy's Toy" made out of a Hornet with a '69 Camaro Body, and others. I would love to see them come in kit form, but the last kit I remember was the Parma Hemi Coupe. Here's my wish list, let me know if anybody else out there thinks this would be a great kit:

Ladder bar-style chassis with in line mounted electric motor, true driveshaft with solid rear end and leaf spring suspension (kind of like the Tamiya F-350 or Toyota High lift, but 2wd and narrow enough track to be true to scale and fit rear tires inside most bodies). Front A arm suspension. Very versatile body mounting system with several options- musclecars, rat rods, lead sleds, gassers, etc. This kit would not be much different that current rock crawler configurations, just be 2wd and be lower to the ground with the motor further forward.

Question for Traxxas Gurus

bchymas — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:21:22 GMT

I was rebuilding my old Rustler the other day and I accidentally snapped one of the white drive shaft yokes that screw directly to the transmission. I snapped it when I had to use pliers to bend the yoke so I could get the metal universal joint to fit in the holes. I bought some new yokes today and I don't want to break them while getting the metal universal joint installed. Is there a trick to this besides using pliers and hoping they don't break?

Kyosho and Al Horne Win Factory Tracks Midwest Series (FTMS)

News — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:34:28 GMT

Attachment 91663

Latest race news from Kyosho:

The Factory Tracks Midwest Series (FTMS) held 5 races starting this summer and just now ending. Out of the 5 races ran, 4 would count for points in the overall championship. Kyosho America Factory Driver Al Horne dominated the 2wd and 4wd Modified classes all series long and then taking home the Championship for both classes.

In the 2wd Modified Class, Al TQ'ed 4 rounds of the series with his Kyosho RB5-SP. He then went onto win 3 of the rounds and finishing 2nd at the other. This easily gave Al the overall win and his first Championship for the series.

In the 4wd Modified Class, Al TQ'ed 2 rounds of the series with his Kyosh Lazer ZX5-FS. Al would win 3 rounds and finish 2nd at the other to give him his second Championship for the series.

Great Job Al!

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Losi wins Final Round of Nitro Pit Summer Series

News — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:29:28 GMT

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Latest race news from Losi:

The Nitro Pit hosted the final round of its Summer Series this past weekend. Losi driver Trevor Clement was the overall winner of the Expert Buggy and Truggy classes. In the Expert Buggy class, Losi drivers took all three spots on the podium with Trevor in first place, Chris Wheeler in second place and Ryan Phillips in third place. All three Losi drivers were running the 8IGHT 2.0 Buggy Race Roller and fueled their vehicles with Nitrotane.

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Balane Plug Style - What do I have

Stokjeep — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:51:14 GMT

I have a Venom lipo charger ... http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=VEN-0657

If I want to order a new lipo .... what balance tap style should I specify to work with my charger ?

RPM SC10 Front Bumper, Skid Plate & Chassis Brace

News — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:15:50 GMT

Attachment 91658

New from RPM:

RPM is proud to offer a new front bumper system for the Associated SC10. This is an all-new system quite unlike the stock version. It is designed with two primary purposes � first and foremost is durability while second, it has to look good doing it! Our goals have been met with an overwhelming success.

Our front bumper system is designed in three pieces. The most critical piece is our unique chassis brace. This brace bolts to the bottom of the chassis using existing holes to help reduce the possibility of chassis breakage through frontal impacts. We achieve this by using 6 mounting points � both servo mounting screw holes and all four bulkhead screw holes. By tying in all 6 locations with a stout, molded nylon plate, we create a perfect foundation for the RPM front skid plate.

The new RPM front skid plate ties into the same four bulkhead screw holes as the chassis brace but we went a step further and added two extra skid plate mounting holes to help disperse frontal impact energy over a larger surface area. This design protects the front bulkhead much better than the stock bumper. Additionally, we�ve eliminated the stock front bumper loop that ties into the front shock tower. By eliminating that piece, it allows the front bumper much more room to absorb impacts while transferring zero impact energy into the fragile front shock tower. The massive front curve of the skid plate does two things � creates a progressive impact zone that steadily absorbs more and more impact energy as the bumper compresses. The curvature also creates a great transitioning surface for those less than stellar landings or unexpected obstacles that �pop up� in front of the truck.

The final piece to our front bumper is an already battle-tested front bumper. It is the same bumper as those used on our Slash front bumpers. What that means is superb impact absorption combined with the ability to accept RPM light canister sets (RPM #80982 & #80983) for nighttime fun! That�s right, now SC10 owners can light up the night too! Combine RPM front bumper light canisters with an RPM roof-mounted light bar set (RPM #80922, #80923 & #80925) and that�s a whopping 10 LED�s worth of night burning light! Want more? How about bolting our Slash rear tail lights (RPM #81030) to the SC10 too? Yes, it�s possible! Check out our website for more details.

#70902 Black Front Bumper, Skid Plate & Chassis Brace for the Assoc. SC10
#70905 Blue Front Bumper, Skid Plate & Chassis Brace for the Assoc. SC10
Suggested Retail Price $18.95 ea.

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Some intersting reading

davec-nitro-rs4 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:19:58 GMT

Painting inside versus painting outside. It ain't the same thing, is it?

http://www.coastairbrush.com/prodima...rStencil18.pdf

Neodymium magnet mounting perfected!

Furyous — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:59:14 GMT

Hi all!

I thought I would share a great and easy way to mount your bodies from the inside using neodymium magnets. Using the regular body posts, thread a nut of appropriate size over the body mounts. thread it down to just below the body cliip hole. Then, cut the tip off of your body mounts so that they are flush with the top of the nut. Next, mix up some JB Weld (you can get it at auto supply or hardware stores) and put about a dime size glob on the top of the body mount and nut. Next, center your magnet on top of the JB Weld (be careful- the steel in the JB weld is attreacted to the magnet, so you need to drop them on quickly!). Let this set for 12 hours or so. Once the JB weld has set into place, use the lids form old Testor's model paint jars (or bottle caps) and let the magent attach to them so that the label is facing upwards. You may want to scuff the tops of the lids with 60 grit sandpaper to improve adhesion. Next, use a dab of shoe-goo on the tops of each of the metal caps and set your body in place. use battery packs or any other kind of weight to hold it in place, and let set for another 12 hours. The sides of the metal caps will keep the body from shifting side to side, and the magnets hold the body down really well. What's really great about this is that it is cheap, it works great, and gets rid of those body post holes and clips. I have posted some pics of a recent project where I used this technique.

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Back to hot roddin' RC style!

Furyous — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:08:40 GMT

I'm back at it- can't help myself. I have accumulated such a large amount of spare parts from EBay that I have been crazy with ideas for projects. My last one ended up as "Reader's Ride of the Month" in September, a '34 Ford pickup hot rod. I won a Novak brushless motor system and installed it into the truck- now I have it geared as slow as it will go but it is waaaaaay to fast to handle. Now it just sits on a shelf as I'm afraid the body will get messed up. I'll probably chage it back to a stock motor and esc, but I would like to install my venom speed meter beforehand so I can know just how fast I'm going.

Anyway, I posted the beginning of a new project- a'32 fenderless duece coupe. It is based on a Traxxas Street Sport. This is a great base for a project like this- independent suspension, direct drive, and a narrow track that looks more scale than most cars. I put 2.2" wheels in back with street tires for monster trucks, and the ffronts are vintage pro-lines from the early '90's with a matching street tread. I dyed the wheels front and back black for a really sinister look. The body is a Bolink '32 ford coupe. I fabricated the interior out of a take-out food tray. I mounted an action figure from Toys R Us as a driver, and he is using a dremel shaft as a shifter. I placed guages along the dash that were from a model kit, and the outside fenders of the body were cut off and shoe-gooed inside the rear of the body to make them wheel wells for the narrow rear end. The firewall is made out of a piece of packaging and shoe-gooed to the inside of the body, and the engine is from Revell's 1/12 scale "Luv Buggy" kit. The body is mounted from the inside using neodymium magnets. I have installed working taillights and plan to install my RAM engine noise simulator. Front shocks are the old red aluminum Kyoshos, just polished off all the red anodizing and placed a smaller spring inside so that they look more scale. I'll keep posting as it nears completion.

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Questions about versions of MMM ESC

timie1 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:47:21 GMT

I'm looking around online (ebay) for a MMM ESC, and some list whether what they are selling is a V3 or not. The problem I have is the one's who don't list if it is a V3. Is there a way to tell by looking at a picture what version it is? Like maybe they changed the stickers, or a different switch or whatever??

Also a while back CC was selling refurbished MMM, presumably repaired V1 and V2. How can I tell if what someone is selling on ebay is a refurbished one or not from looking at a picture?

And finally, the MMM ESC from an ERBE or Savage Flux, what versions are they? I really hope they aren't V1 or V2.

Thanks for your help.

RC4WD Sand Storm Tires for Baja 5T

News — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:10:02 GMT

New from RC4WD:

Attachment 91636

Sand Storm Front Tires for Baja 5T

The Sand Storm is the most scale sand tire available, its also the first sand tire made for HPI Baja 5T. Razor perfect tread pattern for maximum control in sand.

Outer Diameter: 197mm/7.75inch
Width: 68mm/2.67inch
Advanced RC4WD X4 Rubber Compound
Designed for maximum traction and precision steering control
Fit Baja 5T wheel only

What's included:

2x Sand Storm Front Tires
2x Molded foams

Part number Z-T0010
Retail Price $54.99

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Sand Storm Paddle Tires for Baja 5T

The Sand Storm paddle tire has an ultra realistic look. It features ribs to hold the paddle in place to get you the best performance from the tire in the worst sand conditions.

Outer Diameter: 195mm/7.67inch
Width: 76mm/2.99inch
Advanced RC4WD X4 Rubber Compound
Fit Baja 5T wheel only

What's included:

2x RC4WD Sand Storm 5T Paddle Tires (Rear)
2x Molded Foams

Part number Z-T0008
Retail Price $54.99

Available exclusively thru our Baja product partner, TGN. www.teamgonads.com

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Dynamite RC LiPo Packs

News — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:43:10 GMT

New from Dynamite RC:

Attachment 91629

7.4V 3200mAh 2S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Deans
DYN5351D - $59.99

7.4V 3200mAh 2S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Traxxas Conn
DYN5351T - $59.99

7.4V 4200mAh 2S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Deans
DYN5352D - $69.99

7.4V 4200mAh 2S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Traxxas Conn
DYN5352T - $69.99

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7.4V 6000mAh 2S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Deans
DYN5361D - $89.99

7.4V 6000mAh 2S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Traxxas Conn
DYN5361T - $89.99

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7.4V 8000mAh 2S 25C LiPo: Traxxas Connector
DYN5362T - $139.99

Attachment 91632

7.4V 9000mAh 2S 25C LiPo: Traxxas Connector
DYN5363T - $149.99

11.1V 3200mAh 3S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Deans
DYN5371D - $84.99

11.1V 3200mAh 3S 25C LiPo, Hard Case: Traxxas Conn
DYN5371T - $84.99

11.1V 4200mAh 3S 25C LiPo: Deans
DYN5372D - $99.99

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11.1V 4200mAh 3S 25C LiPo: Traxxas Connector
DYN5372T - $99.99

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11.1V 8000mAh 3S 25C LiPo: Traxxas Connector
DYN5373T - $169.99

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I need your help!

KevinH — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 04:43:11 GMT

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I am getting ready to do a little more work to my project F-350. The problem I have is that I think it would be cool to add a roof rack to the truck but I�m not sure if it goes with what I have done so far. Now is the time to drill and prep for it. What do you guys think? Roof rack or no roof rack?

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Mercedes Showcase

C0NTENDER — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:54:02 GMT

I'm not sure if I posted this category before, soplease forgive me if I have. In any event, please show off your Mercedes if you have any to share. Here are a few that I have done: