Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0

sanseric · #1 10-01-2002, 08:02 AM

I am putting a 15 cv rx in my street force have it done on sat. I think the 21 is to strong for rc10 A .15 CVR will do fine I have a .12 in mine it smokes most cars i race.

J_M_R · #2 10-01-2002, 12:12 PM

I picked up some associated rubber sealed bearings for the clutch from my lhs yesterday, so hopfully they wont come apart. But i hit a tree with my rc10gt so wont be running untill i get the parts(broken a arm and rear arm mount).

trxstr1961 · #3 10-01-2002, 10:12 PM

FINALLY after 3 hours i got my new(used) gt together as far as i can what im missing is the following:

complete slipper clutch
brake pad
dogbones/cvds (has one cvd in it)
nose brace tubes
front bumper

if anyone has any of these let me know if u dont need them! thank u

UPDATE!

got a set of rear shocks, and body mounts on it. now it needs a body also, since my rtr bodys dont fit.

mrcthunderking · #4 10-02-2002, 08:33 PM

I use to have an older rc10gt that melted spur gears once in awhile. I am thinking of buying the team built gt now. I'm just gonna bash, not race. Is the Robinson steel gear combo a good investment for me? Or, is there something bad about it?

thanks,

t-king

atm92484_3 · #5 10-02-2002, 09:40 PM

I personally wouldn't get metal gears. Instead, invest in a Trinity TK1200 chassis brace (works on tub chassis only) and a RRP machined plastic spur gear.

micro_man · #6 10-03-2002, 01:04 AM

Hey guys,
Does the GT requre a certain starter box? I found that it wont fit mine. It might just be because i am using the pull start mounts. LMK.

thanks

rocknbil · #7 10-03-2002, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mrcthunderking:
I use to have an older rc10gt that melted spur gears once in awhile. I am thinking of buying the team built gt now. I'm just gonna bash, not race. Is the Robinson steel gear combo a good investment for me? Or, is there something bad about it?

MRC do you really mean melted or stripped?
If they are MELTED, you have your gear lash too tight. When you adjust the engine mounting, make sure there's just a little looseness between the pinion and spur, spin it around and check it all the way around. You should *ALMOST* be able to slip a piece of paper between the gear teeth.

If you mean stripped, there's a discussion in this thread on some of the causes and solutions to this, the most common of which is the twist and flex of the older tub chassis:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...pagenumber=214

As for metal gears, the FAQ on associated's site makes a very good point. This is not a direct quote but it's close:

Gears strip for a REASON. If you strip a gear, you have a $4 part to replace. When you use a hardened metal or even aluminum spur gear, if it strips again, it is likely it will also damage the pinion on the clutch bell. You now have an additional $8 part to replace. It's best to stick with the plastic spur and find out the nature of the problem.

Quote:

Originally posted by micro_man
Hey guys,
Does the GT requre a certain starter box? I found that it wont fit mine. It might just be because i am using the pull start mounts.

What starter box, and how doesn't it fit?

I have a 1/8 scale OFNA box, the one with the single big motor, and I had to put the motor in the cross-box position so it sticks out of the side and the doughnut goes with the length of the box. This causes the rear left wheel to be tight against the motor when the GT is in the right position. It's not quite right, but it works. We then got the smaller two-motor OFNA with my wife's truck, and by fiddling with the positioning tabs it fits perfectly.

By the way if you're new at all to this I'll say from my OWN limited experience getting the starter box set up for the GT is a bit of a pain, it has to be just right, but once it's right it rools.

Also if you have a pull-start flywheel, which is narrower than a non-PS, you'll not only have some trouble getting it to catch (because it's narrower, has less surface area against the doughnut) it can wear out the doughnut faster.

micro_man · #8 10-03-2002, 04:20 PM

No im not new to this. I have been in nitro rc for about 5 years. It is my first GT though. I went out and bought the MIP lightweight flywheel, but i havent checked it with the starter box yet. The box I have is the 1/10 scale ofna powerstart. It has 2 motors and the little power panel. So you are saying that the rubber donut is running parallel to the long side of the box right? Not across the center?

LMK
Thanks,
kurt

ross · #9 10-03-2002, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by micro_man
No im not new to this. I have been in nitro rc for about 5 years. It is my first GT though. I went out and bought the MIP lightweight flywheel, but i havent checked it with the starter box yet. The box I have is the 1/10 scale ofna powerstart. It has 2 motors and the little power panel. So you are saying that the rubber donut is running parallel to the long side of the box right? Not across the center?

LMK
Thanks,
kurt

I am using a pullstart engine with pullstart engine mounts and my starter box works great. The wheel on the starter box should be paralell with the starter box at lengh way.

Ross.

rocknbil · #10 10-03-2002, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by micro_man
I went out and bought the MIP lightweight flywheel, but i havent checked it with the starter box yet......So you are saying that the rubber donut is running parallel to the long side of the box right? Not across the center?

Ross is correct, spin along the LENGTH of the box. If it's a "universal" box you can bolt it in either way, along the length works for GT's. Yours is the better version of my wife's - same thing w/o the panel. You should be able to unscrew the whole motor/doughnut bracket and turn it 90°.

One word though, no matter what people say about the MIP flywheel I hate trying to start an engine with one of those little buggers! We've got two of them, the only one that's mounted is on my wife's GT, and man it's hard to get it to get fuel up to the engine and start. The "ribbing" on the edge is a lot smoother than the stock flywheel and it's really hard to get a grip on it.

ritchies rc10gt · #11 10-05-2002, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rocknbil
Ross is correct, spin along the LENGTH of the box. If it's a "universal" box you can bolt it in either way, along the length works for GT's. Yours is the better version of my wife's - same thing w/o the panel. You should be able to unscrew the whole motor/doughnut bracket and turn it 90°.

One word though, no matter what people say about the MIP flywheel I hate trying to start an engine with one of those little buggers! We've got two of them, the only one that's mounted is on my wife's GT, and man it's hard to get it to get fuel up to the engine and start. The "ribbing" on the edge is a lot smoother than the stock flywheel and it's really hard to get a grip on it.

im running the MIP heavy wieght flywheel and mine starts fine.im also using the Ofna blue 1/8 scale starter box,the one with 1 motor and a 12v battery

Jester · #12 10-06-2002, 07:18 PM

Hey everyone. I need some help. I just got an RC10GT RTR+, and I was able to get 1 and 1/2 tanks thru before it stripped the spur gear!!! I went and got 2 more gears just to be safe, and I got another tank and 1/2 thur, and it ate up another. Now, between the first and the second gears I adjusted the brake linkage so that the drag wouldn't be so bad, but that didn't seem to make a difference. It was running fine, and all of a sudden the RPM's shot thru the roof, and I knew that another gear was gone. Has anyone else had this problem? WHat can I do? I had this problem with a Nitro Rush, but have never heard of this with an RC10GT. I haven't even been able to drive this thing yet!! Grrrrr I ordered the Robinson Racing Steel Spur gear and Clutch bell, but what can I do to solve this problem before they get here?? Thanks to all.

J_M_R · #13 10-06-2002, 09:43 PM

Make sure the gear mesh is right. Also, make sure that the screws holding the engine to the mount, and the screws holding the mount to the chassis are tight. I have only stripped two spur gears on my gt and i have had it for 8 months now. They stripped because the screws holding down the engine came lose.

Jester · #14 10-06-2002, 10:07 PM

Okay, I'll check them. I was going to go thru and check everything tomorrow anyway. It just bums me out, cux I took it out of the box, thru some batts. in it, and some fuel, and this is what I get. LOL Thanks again. Later....

micro_man · #15 10-07-2002, 08:05 PM

Okay I got it going.

I like the mip flywheel alot. It works perfect.

I am having some trouble with engine tuning.....I have an os 12 cvr. I put it to factory settings, then when i start it, it idles fine for as long as i want it too. Then when I give it a little throttle it just instantly dies. It doesnt change engine noise or anything....it just cuts off. Does any one know what the problem could be? The other thing is, the idle seems kind of high. I Checked the gap for the throttle opening and it is just about exactly .5-1mm gap.

Are these signs of rebuild time or what? How much do os piston/sleeve sets cost?

LMK
thanks

micro_man · #16 10-07-2002, 09:29 PM

WEll,
I have done some investigating. when i let it idle with the air filter off. It made me realize that there is something wrong with the carb. WHen the engine cuts out like i was explaining earlier, a litlle poof of unburnt gas comes out of the carb. Do i just need to clen the carb real good or what?

lmk

atm92484_3 · #17 10-07-2002, 10:04 PM

It sounds like your engine is actually too rich. Try leaning it a little bit and try restarting it.

DirtKite · #18 10-08-2002, 03:19 AM

You may want to try some thread lock on those engine mount screws. I'm suprised AE didn't do that already...

DirtKite · #19 10-08-2002, 04:13 AM

Here’s a little story. I bought the RTR truck (not the +) a couple a years ago. I got it for fun and just bashed it around a lot... stripped a couple of those plastic steering servo gears and scratched up the body and chassis pretty good after properly breaking in the engine, etc.
So the wife and I decided to go out to the WA coast one weekend and in those days I had the GT in the trunk of the car all the time. Only this time it was accidental that the GT was along for the trip... well sort of.
Long story short, I ended up taking the GT out on the beach. Now I know this isn't a good idea and since I had also accidentally brought along all my cleaning stuff, I figured what the hell. Anyway this is one of those beaches that you can drive on (legally), and I was having a grand ole time when all of a sudden the radio picked up some interference and the car took a plunge into the Surf. Oh, it was nasty! The car was about 20 or 30 yards from me and a wave or 2 washed completely over it before I got to it. When I did get to it I picked it up and watched as the brown, salty, sandy water streamed out of the exhaust pipe. I thought, “will this be the end of this little car?”
I went back to the hotel and started disassembling and cleaning: read lots of WD40. I didn't spend too much time with it because I’m feeling a little pressure from the wife at this point... after all we are taking a little weekend away here. So I did the best job I could without getting locked out of the room.
Once I got home I spent the better part of 3 hours cleaning out the internal engine parts, etc. Lots of sand and water. I thought I would never get it all out.
The next day, to my surprise, it fired right up and ran like a charm (until I overheated it about 3 weeks later). So, I just put it away and thought I’ll get it running again someday.
Tonight I just finished putting a new AE .15 engine on it. I've also upgraded to ball bearings all around, MIP CVDs, and a metal geared steering servo. I plan to start breaking in the engine next weekend. Man, I feel like a new kid again

rocknbil · #20 10-08-2002, 11:41 AM

This topic mayget moved, see the forum rules . . . but at any rate . . .

So let's suppose the engine bolts are NOT slipping and you have adequate gear lash. When is this happening, on a jump? You know of course if you stay on the throttle while you're in the air that's one of the best ways to strip a spur, right? When you go airborne you should make sure you stay off the stick when it touches down - there's little chance that the engine/clutch will be spinning at the same speed as your ground speed and that's enough to strip out a spur. When you're off the stick the clutch disengages enough to spin free when you touch down.

rocknbil · #21 10-08-2002, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DirtKite
......I didn't spend too much time with it because I’m feeling a little pressure from the wife at this point...

Pressure with what, a FRYING PAN? LOL!!! I'm surprised she let you take it along!

Quote:

......Tonight I just finished putting a new AE .15 engine on it......Man, I feel like a new kid again

Now THAT

Is what this hobby is supposed to be about.

Are you still married?

(I can hear it now. "Either that stupid car goes or I go."

Man I miss her. LOL!!)

trxstr1961 · #22 10-08-2002, 01:05 PM

where di u get the A.E 15 at and how much was it, since im needing a new one

low_ridah10 · #23 10-08-2002, 05:14 PM

is simply letting off the gas enough?? or do you have to put on the brakes too?? and also is it ok to have the throttle on while in the air as long as you dont land with the throttle on?

atm92484_3 · #24 10-08-2002, 06:36 PM

Whether you let off or give brake really depends on how much adjustment you want. I've found that just letting off is normally enough to bring the nose down, but I also have a little dragbrake dialed into my truck. When you're in the air, I wouldn't mash the throttle and over-rev the engine, but its okay to give it a little gas. I would reccomend letting off just intime for landing though (it won't be as hard on the drivetrain and the truck will land and steady out better anyways).

DirtKite · #25 10-08-2002, 11:16 PM

yeah we're still married, ove the years we've gotten pretty good at puttin up with each other + she's a great gal. I've been lucky in that regard.

rocknbil, I think you're on to something there... jumping and landing with the throttle open probably would strip the spur gear. I've never stripped one, but i think i've broken just about everything else before

trxstr1961 I got the new AE thru the AE engine replacement policy. you should have one if you bought the AE engine. you simply return the old engine (if it's not running anymore) and they will replace it for $70 + shipping (there's a number to call on the paper). If you've lost the paper you can print it from Team Associated's website or was it AE's website... anyway it's one of those.