Brushless E-Maxx Picture

Hairball · #1 06-26-2003, 05:03 PM

Check this out...

TC3 Benjammin · #2 06-26-2003, 05:55 PM

Nice!

Hairball · #3 06-26-2003, 06:19 PM

They were glued when I started. That was about 2 minutes into the fist run. Actually, the only run..

TC3 Benjammin · #4 06-26-2003, 07:15 PM

I hear the Stormer beadlocks are the way to go w/ brushless setups.

Avalanche · #5 06-27-2003, 08:32 AM

I've got beadlocks on my force .25 Savage, they broke on the first run. The damn thing wheelies so easy when I was coming down from a wheelie the truck wobbled a little and ended up cartwheeling a couple times. Well. the outer ring popeed 6 of the screws out and stripped the threads on the inner cup on one wheel. The next run I blew the tire off the rim. I had to go to the hardware store and buy bigger screws so they could bite into the newly stripped holes. This was not a huge high speed crash, it was 15mph at most and not very spectacular. I am ver disappointed whith them so far. They are also heavy as hell.

TC3 Benjammin · #6 06-27-2003, 10:22 AM

OK, nevermind! I guess they're crap!

lol

Hairball · #7 06-27-2003, 11:21 AM

I was thinking aluminum beadlocks myself. The plastic ones will just strip out (the hex is what strips) like the stock ones did.

Damn Hacker C50...

Avalanche · #8 06-27-2003, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Hairball
I was thinking aluminum beadlocks myself. The plastic ones will just strip out (the hex is what strips) like the stock ones did.

Damn Hacker C50...

Actually, the hub is very sturdy. Its made of a very dense, hard plastic. Compared to my stock Savage wheels they are 100x better. I'm sure my wheel hit at just the right angle to put enough pressure on the ring to pop the screws. I'm plenty upset about it though. Now if they make them in aluminum that would be the way to go!!

Hairball · #9 06-27-2003, 12:27 PM

They do, but its about $160 per (4).

Sledneck01 · #10 06-27-2003, 12:44 PM

That is sweet! I am in the process of building a brushless Emaxx as well! So far I have the Bombproof chassis! and I am going to get more stuff this weekend!

Hairball · #11 06-27-2003, 12:46 PM

Its sweet until you spend over $2000 on it, and then it breaks on the second run.. lol

speedydave · #12 06-27-2003, 06:02 PM

Well, the rims/tires were damn near the only stock part left on the truck, something had to give.

Hairball · #13 06-27-2003, 06:03 PM

lil_general_lee · #14 06-28-2003, 09:03 PM

I want to finish my brushless E-maxx - But now that I'm pondering selling it, that may never happen. I was going to go with the Lehner 1940/5 w/18120 BEC car ESC. I believe that is the most powerful system available for the E-maxx. The truck was and is built for that brushless system. Now it's just up to whatever I decide to do with it.

Hairball · #15 06-29-2003, 01:00 PM

What hop ups have you done to it? For a STRONG BL system, you really need a lot of stuff....

Possumbot · #16 06-29-2003, 01:14 PM

You don't need a completely rebuilt car, just the drivetrain, tranny, diffs, and axles. If im missing something let me know, but I think the only thing you'd really need is the drive-train upgraded.

Hairball · #17 06-29-2003, 01:20 PM

Thats what I meant.

I've seen people on the 'net bust normal CVDs, like MIP and the like. Diffs are a common thing to explode as I've read, and the stock transmission idler gears and spur gear also die as well.

What I did to my drivetrain to beef it up is this. (note, this is not cheap by any means).

SuperMaxx 7.5 Diffs
SuperMaxx Steel CVDs going from diffs to wheels
SuperMaxx Titanium center shafts
SuperMaxx Steel Idler Gears
Robinson Racing Dual Disc slipper kit

Now you know what my problem is? Wheels. I've totally stripped the hex adapter on the wheels. So, I need to find some really strong plastic rims, or upgrade to aluminum rims. The SuperMaxx Steel CVDs include a steel hex adapter to bolt the wheels on, so thats taken care of. It's the actuall wheels that aren't strong enough.

Hairball · #18 06-29-2003, 01:28 PM

Bye the way, thats about $550 worth of upgrades above and beyond the cost of the E-Maxx and my Hacker brushless motor system.

Crazy huh?

lil_general_lee · #19 06-29-2003, 04:05 PM

I've done some extensive drive train work. Invested over $1400 into the truck without including the BL system. A total list of hop ups include.

Associated Shocks
Atomik Woods Camo F-350 body w/home built gun rack
Bolink 8 Tooth Pinion
Back Oxide Screws (Not all have been replaced yet, but will soon)Diff shims to prevent the ring gear from "walking"
Dynamite Alloy Diff Cases (eliminate case flexing/spreading)
Dragon RC's Front and Rear Redneck Bumpers (Not on the truck yet)
Duratrax Teflon Sealed Bearings
Hitec HS-545BB Shifting Servo w/Alloy arm
Hitec HS-5945 Steering Servo
Imex Swamp Dawg tires
Imex Diamond 6 hole deep dish rims dyed black
Kimbrough Heavy Duty Servo Saver
Lundsford Titanium Tie Rods
Maximizers Ladder Bars with Integrated Skid Plate
MIP CVD's on all 4 corners
MIP Center CVD's
RRP Slipper Clutch with a 76T Plastic machined gear
Spare set of RRP Pinions
Modified RRP Hardened Diff Gears to accept 3MM screws
Modified Traxxas Front and Rear Spools to accept 3MM screws
Actual 242 Blue locktite on all "metal" screws
Traxxas Custom Milled Motor Plate
Traxxas Lightweight Input Shaft
Traxxas Aluminum Idler Gear shafts
Traxxas Titanium hinge pins
Traxxas Aluminum Pillow balls
XS3 Synthasized FM Radio

I actually rather leave the idler gears plastic so they will break before you can do more serious damage to the truck. The idler gears practically cost nothing and arn't too difficult to replace. And anyways, the slipper should be set so that it slips before they strip (But none of us do that so...) lol. Also, my truck isn't near as heavy as many other trucks. Take the tires off and I bet it doesn't weigh much more then stock

The truck is brand new and has never been used, Just waiting on the $701 Brushless system

Hairball · #20 06-29-2003, 04:14 PM

The MIP CVDs WILL snap, just give them a few runs. They are kick butt CVDs for stock motor systems, but once you go brushless, you'll destroy them.

You'll blow the idlers like every other run, so its worth replacing them with the steel units. And if your slipper isn't cranked all the way down, you'll melt it rather quickly.

My Hacker C50 has enough torque to keep the tires spinning for about 3 to 5 mins while the truck is moving. Its quite funny, its hauling butt down the road, yet the tires are still not fully hooked up, you can hear them spinning on the road.

You harded diffs will last longer than the stock ones will, but they'll give eventually too. Unless of course, you go easy on the truck, keeping the BL motor under control. But that ruins the whole point of going brushless!

lil_general_lee · #21 06-29-2003, 04:20 PM

Well, The Lehner system is more powerful then the C50. The breaking of parts is caused by shock to the drivetrain. The drivetrain spools up a little bit before it actually makes the truck move, and thats what snaps the drive train. A lighter truck helps save the parts, And yes, Eventually stuff wears out and gets weak. I have a lot of faith in that the Robinsons will hold up. I took the time to shim them so that the spool/gear will not walk back and forth, Which greatly increases gear life. The idlers may pose a problem that I may eventually fix. Even when you go to steel idler gears 1st and 2nd gear are still the weak points. Idlers are easier to replace then 1st and 2nd gear.

Hairball · #22 06-29-2003, 04:36 PM

I guess. Removing the tranny is removing the tranny. Takes the same amount of time.

Shimming the diffs was a great idea, thats the biggest problem with the stockers. Low quality control on Traxxes's part.

lil_general_lee · #23 06-29-2003, 04:44 PM

What set up are you running in your E ? I'm guessing a Hacker C50 and Master Car Sport Controller ? Before I decided on the lehner system I was thinking of the hacker, How does it run? Looks pretty powerful. Chassis looks different too since the batts are hung below the body

Let me know, looks like a cool truck.

Hairball · #24 06-29-2003, 05:06 PM

Its an Xtreme Maxx chassis, very nice.

It runs strong as hell, and I'm still playing with the gearing. Its faster in first gear than a stock maxx will ever be in second gear. I'd say its as fast or faster than a 2.5 T-Maxx (about 45mph).

And my truck is heavy too. All that aluminum adds up quick.

Right now its gearing 18/70 I think. Keep in mind I'm running 7.5 diffs, which are geared different from the stock diffs.

lil_general_lee · #25 06-29-2003, 05:30 PM

Thats cool, looks sweet and strong. It looks kind of like the Gorilla Maxx chassis, lol. I worry about mine being too light. With a motor that at 1500 watts is rated at something like 2+ HP it will be uncontrollable - Especially if it's basically stock weight. If you don't mind how much have you invested so far ? I like the stock body and tires, Makes for a suprise E-maxx.