CEN MT2 Truck forum

StevePond · #1 08-05-2003, 04:15 PM

Started at the request of MaximumSTPro27

MaximumSTPro27 · #2 08-05-2003, 07:19 PM

thanx Steve...i was just looking to get a thread started to pick up some info from current owners and basically gain as much knowledge about it as possible...

Jamedup · #3 08-06-2003, 01:01 AM

I'll have a few tidbits here and there when I get mine ready to race this weekend. Hopefully they'll have enough MTs to race.

End Overend · #4 08-08-2003, 02:08 PM

Cool, an MT2 forum

I've owned my MT2 for a little over a month now and I'll give my review here.

Likes:

-The MT2 is very fast out of the box
-The MT2 handles very well around corners and has much less rollover than my 2.5 T-Maxx did (I sold it a while back).
-The simple lay out of the MT2 is nice and much less complicated than other MT's out there
-The big receiver/battery box is very much appreciated
-Flexible body posts do not break nearly as often as those on a T-Maxx.
-Aluminum shock towers are a nice addition
-Easy .21 conversion
-Addition of a 125cc tank is nothing more than a little dremel work and the purchase of the tank (make sure there is room before doing so though)

Dislikes:

-Radio had a range of about 20-30 feet out of the box, sent in for warranty repair but haven't received it back yet
-Engine appeared to have a slight bend in the crankshaft that lead to two stripped spur gears, sent in for warranty repair haven't received it back yet
-No foam for the tires creates a bouncy ride off of jumps and while climbing obsticals at speed
-Some chassis flex in the middle, the roll cage from New Era Models should cure this problem
-Excessive play at the wheels, 10x15mm bearings on the inside of the hub carriers is supposed to cure this
-No local LHS support, everything must be mail ordered (at least for me)

Changes I've made to the MT2 so far:

-Added a JR XR2i transmitter, receiver and servo's to the MT2 since the orignial radio didn't work for me.
-Changed engines to an OS CV-Rx .15 just as powerful as the NT-16 but rev's a bit higher.
-Bought a 2nd set of wheels/tires: IMEX Claw Dawg tires and Traxxas 2.2 hex rims.
-Changed to ball ends on the front tie rods

Future modifications:

-New Era Models roll cage (sometime soon)
-New wheels (chrome) with Proline Masher 2000 tires
-10x15mm bearings at each axle
-125cc tank for long run times with the OS CV-Rx .15 ( should be in the 20 minutes + range)

Overall observations:

The MT2 has proven to be a pretty durable truck. I have done many flips and tumbles with the truck and other than stripped spur gears the only part I've broken was the front lower a-arm and that was my fault for running it into an immovable object.

The truck has excellent handeling on the ground. It corners with much more speed than a T-Maxx and doesn't roll over nearly as much. Jumping is a bit more tricky with the MT2. Since it has a shorter wheel base and large tires hitting the throttle or the brake causes much greater movement in the air than it did on my old T-Maxx. This can cause nose up or nose down landings. Smaller tires help with this a lot, but then you loose some of your MT look and ability.

I would like a bit more on power steering out of the MT2. I'm not talking about full power steering as no RC car has much steering while at full power. I'm talking about 1/4 power steering. The only time I can get even a semi-tight turn out of the MT2 is when I'm off power and hitting the brakes lightly. My old T-Maxx could turn tighter turns than my electric buggy and I miss that in my MT2. Looking at the steering set up it doesn't appear that there is much that can be done with this unless there is a complete re-design of the steering.

Fuel consumption is very good with the MT2 regardless of whether it was with the NT-16 or the OS CV-Rx. I get a good 10 minutes of run time out of both motors. This is about 2 minutes longer than on my old RC10GT per tank.

Acceleration with the MT2 is brisk with the stock tires on it. It could however be better. Some clutch modification could make a big difference in acceleration with the bigger tires. A slightly stronger spring would delay clutch engagement and put the engine into it power band before it starts moving. With the IMEX Claw Dawg tires it accelerates extreemly quick. This lowers the gear ratio and has less rotational mass. With the IMEX tires on I also have a very hard time flipping the MT2 (not that I want to). I'm able to sent the MT2 into power slides on pavement, hit the throttle and pull out of them with all 4 wheels spinning like crazy.

Top speed is as advertised. With the stock tires I can see 45mph out of the MT2. With a .21 the MT2 is insanely fast in both acceleration and top speed (one of the threads in the normal MT forum has a video of the conversion and it flat moves out).

Maintanence has been fairly easy on the MT2. Changing a spur gear however is a pain in the butt. You have to take the rear end off of the truck, dissasemble the rear differential, then take the transmission apart which isn't all that easy, then put it all back together. This generally takes a good hour to do. Other than that the truck is pretty easy to work on with things well laid out.

Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the MT2. It still needs some work, but out of the box has no more problems than any other MT out there but for $100.00 + less than other MT's.

End Overend · #5 08-18-2003, 03:34 PM

Since I can't update my post, I'm posting a follow up to my original review.

Since writing the review I have completed the 10mm x 15mm hub carrier modification, picked up the New Era Models roll cage and completed a small modification to the brakes.

The 10mm x 15mm hub carrier bearing modification, really works well, and looks as if it was designed to have the bearings placed there. The bearings fit perfectly into the hub carriers and require just a little pressure to seat them into the space properly. Once installed they reduced the slop in the wheels by at least half. Definately helps keep the truck going in a straight line at speed and provides a lot of support for the main bearings. This should help the bearings last a long time. Cost: around $35.00 - $40.00

The New Era Models roll cage is probably the highest recommended modification I can suggest for the truck. It provides protection for the engine and provides a large amount of fore/aft stiffening to the chassis. It also helps with braking consistancy and power and will help keep you from striping spur gears due to the fore/aft flex. The roll cage is powder coated and is a pretty good match for the stock purple coloring that comes with the truck. The roll cage is pretty light also at 2.5 ounces. Cost: $40.00

Here is a small brake modification that will also help a bit with jumping. Take the rear end off of the truck so you have access to the brake screws (that hold on the calipers). Take the screws off and place a small piece of fuel tubing over the screw, but between the two calipers. When you put it back together make sure the calipers are close enough to the brake that it takes very little movement to apply the brakes, but just enough that the brake doesn't touch the calipers. Then re-assemble the rear end. If you leave too much room you will have too much play and will loose some braking power.

Basically what this does is makes sure that the brake calipers return to their outermost position when the brake isn't applied and that the brake disc doesn't drag on them. This will make your brakes last longer and be more consistant. It will also make sure you don't have any drag brake in the air causing the front to nose down when you don't want it to.

It's a pretty simple, easy to do and cheap modification to the stock truck.

With these modifications I would put this truck up with pretty much any MT out there on a track. Bashing it would be a bit behind the others due to lower ground clearance but for the most part it can hold it's own there also.

If you have any other questions please feel free to e-mail or PM me. If I do any other mods I'll post the results here.

GaMT2 · #6 08-20-2003, 05:14 PM

Hi,new to the group.I've had my MT2 for about 3 months.So far I have had to replace the the front and rear differential hubs.One broke completely.Just wondered where everyone is getting the 10mm x 15 mm bearings from.I have looked on thewebsites that carry parts for the MT2.Can't seem to find them anywhere.Thank you in advance for the help.

So far I have bought the brake block,extra wheels for smaller tires,cooling head,aluminum pipe,and a different body.

Are pics allowed in this group?

Thanks for the help.

alphax43 · #7 08-20-2003, 08:13 PM

Yes pics are allowed! Please post em

K Man

End Overend · #8 08-21-2003, 01:42 AM

GaMT2,

I got mine at my LHS. They carry a variety of sizes.

If your LHS doesn't carry them, do a search in your yellow pages for bearing companies. Many large cities have at least one bearing company some where. You can also try your hardware stores.

GaMT2 · #9 08-25-2003, 09:08 PM

Here are a few.one before and one after the gravel road.Ended up stipping the rear dogbones.

GaMT2 · #10 08-25-2003, 09:12 PM

here is the one after the dirt road!Still have not been able to find the bearings.Does anyone a hobby shop that will ship the bearings?

CEN Racing · #11 08-26-2003, 01:52 PM

GaMT2
You got a nice truck there.

Ok, back to subject, give us a call if you have no luck finding it. We will find a LHS for you or a mail order place.
714-792-1923

Jamedup · #12 08-29-2003, 03:15 PM

End Overend,
Here's a link to some steering hub mods I did. It will turn a little better now but I'll play with it further, like the steering bellcranks.
I threw in a GOOD steering servo and 80 weight oil in the back/ 50 in the front and the truck handles pretty darn good. It wasn't bad before but it's real nice now.

Anyone have any questions or comments about this, feel free to email me or post them.
http://ccsnetworking.com/catchinhell...eering-mod.htm

The start of the CEN section of my site starts here.
http://ccsnetworking.com/catchinhell/CEN%20trucks.htm

btw... sorry it took so long, my LAN got hit by lightning and took out some expensive hardware.

End Overend · #13 08-29-2003, 05:22 PM

Jamedup,

Thanks for the steering mods, I never really looked that hard at what was limiting some of the steering. Looks like a little dremel work will help with the steering radius.

Here is something I did to my steering linkage to help a bit with bump steer.

I turned the steering linkage arm around and removed the ball joint/cup from the chassis steering linkage (bell cranks?). I used the outside ball joint/cup combo that is lower overall and screwed it into the chassis steering linkage. Then I took a regular ball joint screw from an associated car and installed that on the hub carrier linkage and put a regular sized ball cup on the outer linkage arm.

This allows the steering linkage to travel a bit farther down and doesn't go as high on the top end. It doesn't eliminate bump steer but it minimizes it.

Sounds like your suspension set up is pretty close to what I ended up with. I'm running 55 wt oil up front with 90 wt oil in the rear, stock dampers. I don't have any ride height adjusters up front and one big adjuster in the back. I'm also running the lower mounting holes on the outside hole on all four corners both top and bottom on the shocks.

Looks like your racing ST has been gutted

, but I'm sure it shaved some good weight off of it.

kecatt · #14 09-09-2003, 11:22 PM

I just got a new MT2. I was curious if anyone knows of a larger fuel tank that I could install with minimum mods. I do have a dremel tool but am relucant to hack it up. If I have to though, I guess I could.
I am new to nitro, and so far love the MT2. I can't make a comparison to any other trucks, but I have had great luck with it. Break in was a snap and I am now dialing in the mix. It will soon have a new body and some other odds and ends. I really don't have a single complaint (unless you count the small fuel tank), and applaud CEN for a great product.
I bought it new for $260 and feel it is a great buy.

CEN Racing · #15 09-10-2003, 12:16 PM

YOu have two choices.

1. cut the top plate and fit a larger fuel tank there.
2. Remove the radio box and fit a larger tank there.

Or be lazy and just zip tie a large fuel tank on top of top plate. We did it at race when we dont have time to do modifications and it works, just does not look good.

kecatt · #16 09-10-2003, 08:52 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. I will be checking out the LHS for a suitable tank.
Another question: I am not sure if the 2 speed is shifting consistantly. As I was leaning out the HSN and gaining more power, I could hear the shift very plainly. After the spit test (water cooked off after 3-4 seconds) and richening the mix back up a bit (better too rich than lean, you know), I no longer heard the shift. I'm not comfortable with leaning it out too much more for fear of overheat. Is there anything wrong with adjusting the shift down as per the instructions? I'm not sure where to go with it, but would like a consistant second gear shift.
When that sucker hit second gear, it was a yellow streak.....and I liked it!!!!
Thanks. Kyle

End Overend · #17 09-10-2003, 10:31 PM

kecatt,

You can adjust the shift point adjustment as per the instructions. I generally set mine between 5 and 5.5 turns out from full in. This allows me to run it a little rich but still shift into 2nd gear.

kecatt · #18 09-11-2003, 12:55 AM

Thanks for the info, EO.
Now bigger problems. My buddy hit a curb with it and the driveshaft from the trans to the front diff is bent. Nothing else was even bothered, but it looks like I'm going to order a new shaft. Still trying to figure out how it happened.....

End Overend · #19 09-11-2003, 01:10 AM

It sounds as if when your buddy hit the curb the chassis flexed enough to push the ends together that it bent the shaft. The New Era Models roll bar will help a lot with this.

kecatt · #20 09-14-2003, 03:56 PM

Well, I've owned it a week and the transmission is toast. The 2nd gear gearset is ok, but 1st is shot. The spur gear has about 60% of its teeth left, and the drive gear is looking a bit beat up. It looks as though something went through it.
Has anyone ordered parts for these? I think I need the following:
CEN 47T Spur Gear for 2-speed Transmission (red) - CEN G84307-01
and
CEN 11T Threaded Pinion M10, use with FFS001 - CEN FFS034
to get it going. Can anyone confirm this so I don't order the wrong thing? Thanks a million. Kyle

kecatt · #21 09-14-2003, 07:02 PM

Ok, I took it apart. I think I will go with the new clutch bell:
CEN 11T/14T 2-Speed Clutch Bell (threaded) (MT) - CEN G84309-04
and also get:
CEN Spur Gear T44 - CEN G84307-02
Are these PNs correct?

johnomaier · #22 09-14-2003, 07:18 PM

I want to buy new spur gears because I stripped the old ones. I dont know where to find them and which ones to order. Can anyone help me?

kecatt · #23 09-14-2003, 07:34 PM

I'm looking here:

http://www.rcmodels.com/car---truck-...turer-cen.html

End Overend · #24 09-14-2003, 08:11 PM

kecatt,

Those should be the right part numbers. I'd order two of each if I were you just to be safe, you are going to end up replacing the spur gears at some point in time any way.

As for the clutch bell, you shouldn't need to replace the clutch bell it's self, just the gears. It should be cheaper if you just purchase those. Are you sure you need a new clutch bell/gears? I've stripped both of my spur gears several times and my clutch bell is in great shape still.

kecatt · #25 09-14-2003, 08:53 PM

I have to replace the spur gear for first as it has only 60% of the teeth left. The first gear pinion on the clutch bell has nasty looking teeth, teeth I don't feel comfortable matching up to a brand new plastic spur gear.
How do you remove the pinion gear from the clutch bell? Mine appears to be threaded on, but I'm having no luck removing it. If I get too rough with it I could warp or crush the bell and be back to replacing the bell and pinions anyway.
I shot an e-mail to CEN to clarify part numbers concerning whether or not the clutch bell comes with pinions attached or if they only come separate. I'm hoping to get a complete clutch bell and both spur gears and start over fresh.
The bad thing about it is my LHS (HobbytownUSA) is listed as a dealer on the CEN webpage but really don't have anything in stock so everything has to be ordered on line.......
Thanks for the info. Kyle