Duratrax Evader ST Forum v4.0

jstock · #1 07-17-2003, 12:42 AM

Hello everyone!

I've been poking around the forums here for a while now and want to officially say hello. I used to have a Blackfoot over 10 years ago just to bash around and haven't had anything ever since. I'm looking forward to enjoying the hobby once again.

I just picked up an Evader and am pretty impressed so far, but I have some concerns. My differential is already grinding after 2 days and the servo is grinding as well. But overall it's expected from what I've been reading.

Also, I'm completely confused on my charging system. I've picked up a Duratrax IntelliPeak Mini Pulse Charger and (2) Shark 1500mAh packs. I am having problems getting full charges on the things. What amp rate should I be using on a peak charge and how long should it take? Should I discharge before every charge?

Anywho.......I'm glad I stumbled upon this site.

Here's the new toy:

jstock · #2 07-17-2003, 12:42 AM

edit below

jstock · #3 07-17-2003, 12:42 AM

Hello everyone!

I've been poking around the forums here for a while now and want to officially say hello. I used to have a Blackfoot over 10 years ago just to bash around and haven't had anything ever since. I'm looking forward to enjoying the hobby once again.

I just picked up an Evader and am pretty impressed so far, but I have some concerns. My differential is already grinding after 2 days and the servo is grinding as well. But overall it's expected from what I've been reading.

Also, I'm completely confused on my charging system. I've picked up a Duratrax IntelliPeak Mini Pulse Charger and (2) Shark 1500mAh packs. I am having problems getting full charges on the things. What amp rate should I be using on a peak charge and how long should it take? Should I discharge before every charge?

Anywho.......I'm glad I stumbled upon this site.

Here's the new toy:

jstock · #4 07-17-2003, 12:51 AM

For whatever reason when I went to edit my post it posted seperately. I have no clue what I'm doing here, yet.

Preston · #5 07-17-2003, 08:53 AM

So here is a pic my brother took of me jumping my evader last night.

AznJunkie · #6 07-17-2003, 10:39 AM

Preston - Nice

. So what parts did you break. Just kidding!

pudder · #7 07-17-2003, 12:21 PM

More like what parts didnt you break?

jstock- 4-5 amps is a good rate to use. Personally I use 5. My 1500 takes about 17 minutes to do a full charge from being dead @ 5A on a pulse charge mode.

Hope this helps.

Preston · #8 07-17-2003, 01:15 PM

If you can believe it, I haven't broken any parts yet (ok an antenna tube, and a chipped rim..) But no serious parts that would stop me from driving. I pretty much use this truck for jumping in the court you see there.

What you don't see in that picture is the 4 foot cardboard landing ramp that I land on. It's off the the left a few feet outside the picture. I try to do my jumps in a "controled" sort of way, so I can predict how the truck will land, and make sure its not going to be hard enough to break stuff.

I've got to admit though, This truck IS durable. I've missed my landings a few times, and the truck still held together.

It impressed my brother so much that after this picture was taken last night, he went on his computer and ordered and Evader for himself from tower!

pudder · #9 07-17-2003, 01:30 PM

Ya, I do have to say that is a really nice picture. The main thing about jumping is getting a good landing.

k_sw31 · #10 07-17-2003, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pudder
The main thing about jumping is getting a good landing.

I can vouch for that one!

Nice photography. Good jumpin

jstock · #11 07-18-2003, 04:02 AM

Hello everyone,

After 3 days at my folks house, thier driveway has turned my original tires into slicks. Anybody have any good recomendations for new tires to use on loose gravel? I'm thinking ProLine Dirt Hawgs.

Also I'd like to offer a recomendation for those who are interested in purchasing a Ready to Run vehicle. CHECK FOR LOOSE PARTS!!!! Both my rear shocks fell apart today because they weren't tightened all the way. Mass production assembly at it's best I suppose.

Another issue has risen regarding the servo. When I turn the wheels left at a stand still nothing happens but a retchid grinding noise. I fear the worst! Any suggestions on good replacement parts that don't strip out. LOL!!

Thanks!

Jay

Preston · #12 07-18-2003, 08:24 AM

I would recommend Dirt Hawgs too. I have them on all 4 corners of my truck. I picked them for 3 reasons:
1. Tread lasts quite a long time, even used on asphalt.
2. Works well both on-road, and off-road.
3. Slightly larger diameter gives the truck better ground clearance.

As for your servo, how long have you had the truck? Seems to me like you might have a bad servo to begin with. My stock servo still works fine, although its never been very torquey.

If I were you, personally I would first just try to replace it with an inexpensive Hobbico servo, for like $10 bucks. Might work fine for you, or you cold spend more and get a better, stronger servo. But I know I’d just replace it with a cheap one. I’ve never stripped servo gears yet in a servo.

rcguy2477 · #13 07-18-2003, 09:48 AM

You need a metal geared servo. The stock servo is an s3003, and has plastic gears. A hitec 645mg or 625mg servo would be fine. If your not looking to spend $40 on a servo, get an HS-475HB servo.

625mg http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/P...tra_speed.html

645mg http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/P...ra_torque.html

475hb http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/P...er_pro_bb.html

geo8498 · #14 07-18-2003, 09:56 AM

I stripped out my stock steering servo pretty quickly. Replaced it with another Futaba 3003, and have been running it for about 6 months now with no problem.

As for the tires. I love the Gladiators. I have a set on my Associated RC10GT since March and there's still alot of life left in them. They work great on any surface.

jstock · #15 07-18-2003, 03:56 PM

Thanks everyone! I'll head down to the LHS and pick up some new parts.

egdinger · #16 07-22-2003, 09:29 PM

Can the stock speed control handle a speed gems pro 17 turn motor (forgot the name)?? if so what would a good spur/pinion combo be, thanks.

guver · #17 07-22-2003, 10:06 PM

You should just barely be able to get by with the sprint esc, especially if you are using 6 cell battery.

I usually use about 2-4 teeth higher than the number of motor turns with the stock 88 tooth spur for most bashing around the yard. (17 turns plus 3 would be stock gearing) Never any higher unless I want to make speed runs with small diameter tires.

hardcoredriver · #18 07-24-2003, 11:29 AM

Wat up?
Im geting a new D5 10t d for my evader
Heres my question... Will I fry the differential? My friend told me I could'nt because i dont have a stealth diff.
Keep in mind that I race...

Eric from NJ

pudder · #19 07-24-2003, 11:32 AM

You won't fry your diff unless you have it set so loose it slips, or so tight it ruins the balls and rings. However, you will probably fry many idler gears.

rcguy2477 · #20 07-24-2003, 12:03 PM

How do so many people fry the idler gear? I have a 15t motor and i havnt fried any yet. Am i just lucky? The only part i have broken so far is the bumper.

pudder · #21 07-24-2003, 01:48 PM

Putting a lot of stress on it helps strip it. Not using the slipper is a major one. I stripped a few idlers with a stock motor, but i had the slipper locked because I was racing on carpet.

TeamMishap · #22 07-24-2003, 08:31 PM

Here's my newest Evader body. It's a ProLine Crowd Pleaser for the XXXT.

It's marbled red and blue with AlClad II Chrome.

Think it'd sell on E-bay?

pudder · #23 07-24-2003, 10:23 PM

I'm sure somebody would buy it. It is a nicely done body. Do you usually sell your bodies because I think you should start to, it's realy nice.

TeamMishap · #24 07-24-2003, 10:56 PM

The first Evader one (Colorado Avalanche) I did was just to see if I could do one. I did a simple Maxx body because my other one is hanging together by a thread. This one, I did as a favor that I got hosed on. $23 for the body and $14 for a spray can of Alclad. I don't always have time to tool around. I'm active duty in the Air Force, but on full time scholarship to get my Masters degree. Once school starts up again, I'll be lucky to play with a truck, let alone paint a detailed bod. LOL

I didn't destroy my Evader tranny with my Hacker B50 ;( With it being only 3033 rpm/v vs the 4200 rpm/v of the Lehner Basic, it doesn't explode the tranny. I guess somewhere between 21.8K rpm and 30.2K rpm is the tranny meltdown point. I think I liked the Lehner motor better, but the Hacker controller is definately the bomb.

k_sw31 · #25 07-25-2003, 12:21 AM

Man thats an awesome body! I would love something like that for my mini cooper or T3... You should definatly be able to get some good dough for that on ebay though.