Brushless Motor Forum v3.0

BJMFH · #1 03-02-2003, 05:28 PM

I was reading the results from the Tamiya Endurance Race. It looks like the Novak Teams really kicked a*s with their BL system. Hacker placed horribly. Maybe the Novak system doesn't suck as much as we all though it did.

I know 225 watts sucks, but they were able to run it almost continuously for 4 hours. That's d*mn impressive. I'm also aware that the Team Novak drivers are among the best in the world, but still...

Even if I geared my Hacker/Lehner combo way down (18/72), I don't think I could run it for 4 hours straight. I'd much rather have the top speed and torque as opposed to endurance though.

Who knows, maybe in the future Novak will be the one to beat in the BL game.

k_sw31 · #2 03-02-2003, 06:00 PM

I wouldn't mind Novak being the top in BL...at all

Still, the fact that you can drive it for four hours strait really wouldn't effect my decision to buy something anyways...even though I am ALWAYS driving my car for 4 hours strait

RadicalRustler · #3 03-02-2003, 07:01 PM

The part with hacker, it could be anybody who decided to pick that name. They could be newbs with bl for all we know.(or don't know)

andy497 · #4 03-02-2003, 09:30 PM

I'm sure I could run my bl for 4 hours straight. With the setup I'm running now, it never gets too much above medium warm. I'm also getting about 12 minutes per GP3300 pack as opposed to the 9 minutes novak was advertising. On the other hand, I'm sure a team novak driver would beat the pants off me, so that doesn't mean much. I suppose breaking an a-arm or something every dozen laps or so wouldn't help.

WhaDL · #5 03-02-2003, 10:26 PM

I think the Novak is gonna make a killing in the US BL market, and for one reason:

SUPPORT !!!

Local support (repairs, returns, etc.) and a solid reputation of making it right for the consumer. If the German companies don't get their support act together, they'll be dead in the US inside one year.

TrinityGuy21 · #6 03-02-2003, 10:33 PM

Any Pros out there that know anything about Brushless Systems for E-Maxx's ..... I need information about the Hacker Bl System .... POST YOUR REPLIES AT ..... E-Maxx Brushless Help Forum .....

Soya v1.1 · #7 03-02-2003, 11:20 PM

Hehe, because you saw mine

k_sw31 · #8 03-02-2003, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by WhaDL
I think the Novak is gonna make a killing in the US BL market, and for one reason:

SUPPORT !!!

Local support (repairs, returns, etc.) and a solid reputation of making it right for the consumer. If the German companies don't get their support act together, they'll be dead in the US inside one year.

Yeah, you cant beat 11 days including shipping for 3 escs

Prinler · #9 03-02-2003, 11:33 PM

why not just read about it in this forum?

You must have seen my maxx

Muck · #10 03-03-2003, 01:07 AM

Just got done running my rustler. Finally got the bl system all put together. I'm using the Lehner 4200 and a Schultz 18.61 . Stock gearing at this point and its running great. Theres nothing like the sound of Lexan as it skids across the asphalt!

ViciousKnives · #11 03-03-2003, 10:22 AM

or, you could have the sound of your body posts against the asphalt because you didn't put a body on... lol

i was doing so fine for 3 weeks in a row just bashing, and the first time i hand it over to my bro, he hits a manhole and sends the thing flipping...

Mr. Constructor · #12 03-03-2003, 01:07 PM

To RCmaniac324:

I do read these posts too, but I was wondering why you´re that crazy (sounds to me a little but in fact we all are a little

)
As for me you should measure out the diameter of your main axle (that sticks out of the tranny Box)
the most used Slippers have around 3 to 5 mm bore, maybe you could get some to cut a new main axle out of steel on a lathe for you and then you will be able to drive the car with a , say Asso Slipper.

As for the hacked gear, I think, the Diff wants to unload during the corners (and cannot, because you fixed it) so the forces went another way the over stressed half of the gear is used.
Anyway, the use of a slipper and a good dialed in Diff has to function, try the diff with a normal 9 T (or anything very powerful)
then lock it step by step as it will not affect the cornering and not to loose for slipping (try to find a point in wich the diff is more locked than normal (just a few thread inches) and then test out the slipper the same way, let it only slipp (with the 9 T) for about 3-4 feets, then built the BL in and before driving set the diff and the Slipper 1/4 turn tighter, then the car should run well, the gearing you choose is too high for a MT (or is it not an MT, didn´t now the MRC that good) choose a 15-16:1 with big tires with buggy tires use a 13:1 as now.
Then the Car has to run !!

To WhaDL:

I think you´re not totally right, the Combination makes the effect, think: a system as the Lehner or Hacker Combo but with the support as the Novak thats the best rule !!
But to say a word to support, in Germany the Support for BL´s from these firms is great (7 working days) but the Novak system takes patience it´s the too long distance and the missing repair stores (as the big Entertainment Manufacturers have) that stops the enthusiasm at all.
I bought a Novak 5 -6 Years ago, the Snow melted one FET and our dealer was not able to fix it !! (at least soldered it myself and is running again)
But the thing is that the Novak System has just another method of thinking behind its tech datas, if you cope with it OK if not , take the other systems.

By the way: our last endurance race was held 24 hours with only one BL (and novak wasn´t there and the teams where NO Manufacturer teams)
I think the technology itself is that good if the best drivers will use it it will be equal wich one you choose.

Lord Radeon · #13 03-03-2003, 03:11 PM

Soya: single cell shrink is just SLIGHTLY too small for the job.

Micha_MX4 · #14 03-03-2003, 04:10 PM

well, finally got my setup complete...

after getting a Lehner basic 5300 at eBay lat week,
i was fortunate anough to get a schulze 58ce today
for a reasonable price

I will post my experiences here and at the setup-thread.

Anyone out here, who has tried the programming? Any hints?
Do I have to watch out for something?

Thanx,
Mike

Soya v1.1 · #15 03-03-2003, 04:20 PM

Watch out for water! My Shulze does not like it

ViciousKnives · #16 03-04-2003, 12:38 AM

watch out for you batteries, controller might fry when you plug them in... get a bottle ready for that just in case, so you can save the smoke... lol.

hopefully you'll have better luck than a lot of other people have had... good luck

alana07 · #17 03-04-2003, 01:59 AM

hi,
i've just seen on schulze's website they have a new esc called the U-Force, which is designed for both brushed and brushless usage. i'm considering getting a b/less setup, and was leaning towards the hacker master car competition when this U-Force esc appeared. i know schulze's escs are good but i hate their shrinkwrap casing. could all the experienced b/less users in here provide some kind of advice? i'll be using the setup for 6cell touring. thanks.

Soya v1.1 · #18 03-04-2003, 07:50 AM

I like the Shulze because it has awesome off the line punch. They're also small, and pretty light. But the shrinkwrap does kinda suck.

tc3punk · #19 03-04-2003, 08:59 AM

well, it depends on how much money you have

if the schulze fries, from ANYthing, they will say it's your fault, and you'll have to pay about 50% the price of a new one, just to get it repaired...

hacker on the other hand has been pretty good with repairs, and havn't had many controllers go up in smoke

oh yeah, it's "BL" not "B/less"

JonDax · #20 03-04-2003, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ViciousKnives
watch out for you batteries, controller might fry when you plug them in... get a bottle ready for that just in case, so you can save the smoke... lol.

hopefully you'll have better luck than a lot of other people have had... good luck

I've been running my new Hacker setup since this weekend --it's SO great, BTW, a C50 and Master Comp controller-- and in the instructions it mentions something about 'not making multiple connections when attaching the battery.' I couldn't figure it out at first, but now I'm thinking they meant to be careful plugging the battery in and not to touch the connectors together too many times. On my Schulze/LMT and especially the Hacker, it arcs pretty good when I hook them up. Sometimes I slip and it 'zaps'/arcs a couple of times. Sometimes it doesn't at all. I'm thinking that zapping/arcing deal is what will help fry the esc. If you're running many cells this could be even more possible. I never noticed it as much with brushed, but both my BL escs get full power upon hookup and begin to draw current immediately. My batteries ran down just from being plugged in, and I've left batts plugged into my brushed Novak escs before overnight, switched them on the nest day and ran them. Not so with my Hacker. maybe that's why someone in here had a fire with a Hacker system? even with a BEC switch it drained the batteries into reversal?

Well, enough rambling, but I gotta say, I love this BL stuff so much more than my brushed setups. SO smooooth!

I do see what Prinler was saying about not popping wheelies as easy in the Maxx though. Not quite as much off-the-line snap it seems. It will start to pull a wheelie on acceleration, on its way to 30+mph! ( I haven't found enough room for full speed yet. Yet.)
--JD

BJMFH · #21 03-04-2003, 11:04 AM

Your are absolutely correct JonDax!

I was the moron who left his batteries plugged into my Hacker Master Sport ESC. I had the thing switched off too.Not only was my ESC fried (exploded is more the word), my batteries were ruined, along with all the other electronics in my car. It even melted the carbon fiber chassis in my RC10B3.

I own the Master Competition now. I don't plug the batteries unless I'm going to immmediately use it. Even if I'm parking lot bashing and the lot is 5 minutes away, I still won't plug the batteries in.

I know most people on this site are tired of hearing me p*ss and moan about what happened, but I'm just trying to get the word out. BL systems cost alot of cash so it's stupid to ruin one over a simple, avoidable mistake. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR BATTERIES CONNECTED TO YOUR BL CONTROLLER!

I was reading the manual for Novak's BL system. It says not to leave the batteries connected too. Guess this is problem with all BL controllers.

LEMMEDRIVEIT!! · #22 03-04-2003, 03:01 PM

Ok, i've been lookgin around at brushless websites, and i'm totally confused- i've read alot of this thread, and i'm still confused- I've hear dmany good adn bad things, and i don't want to blow 250$ on a motor and esc and then they don't work(i'm obviously a newbie) I was looking around at www.rumrunnerhobbies.com or something( i think that thats it)

BUt anyways, i'm totally confused. Could someone just lease give me a setup around like 250$ that would work in a Traxxas rustler???- i might also see if it woudl fit in my 1/12th scale corally(can you say 100mph???) Is ti worth it??? i dont' know if i will be able to run it on my track(if so, then i will just switch when i go there) I woudl be using it for play. What woudl be good for me

Please give me a setup- thanx..

later

Prinler · #23 03-04-2003, 03:10 PM

OK let me sum this up for ya....
On brushed ESC's things are rated for Winds....
On Brushless ESC's things are rated for Amps.....

Ok a 1920/5 will pull like 150 amps on one hard pull.... if your esc cant pull that it will thermal, IE... NO GO! that means purchase a $450 ESC for flawless operation.

If ya want to make sure you get an ESC and motor that will work.... Make sure they are both Sensored or Sensorless.

If you notice on the ESC pages it will tell you how many amps peak ( one hard pull from stand still will do this ) and how many amps consecutive if can handle. get a ESC that will fir the motors amp draw and it should work good. Once you find a few you like, ask us here in the forums, we will be glad to tell ya what we think

my 2 cents

spreckenzy · #24 03-04-2003, 03:33 PM

well i am new to the brushless motors. i ordered a lehner basic 5300 ($120) and a warrior 7018($120) with a $10 heat sink is about $254 plus shipping.

i am going to run it in a T2. i have found some places to get alloy diff and idler gears as well as some aluminum chassis parts. i figure this is going to have plenty of power and top speed.

$254 is not bad for a bl system.

Novak has shown signs of their BL hitting the market shortly $234 for the system

LEMMEDRIVEIT!! · #25 03-04-2003, 03:40 PM

thanx prinler. I was looking at the Lehner basic series, and the warrior controller with a heatsink. I jsut have a few questions.

I cna't find where to order a basic motor - they show a pic on the first page, but not a link.

i was lookign around hte website, and they said that the warrior wsn't programmable but u need a chip r something- thats what i was confused about.

SO, what do i need to run it- i was gonna get the warrior and a lehner basic- if i coudl choose one, adn how do i get to the choices, and waht do i need to do with the warrior controller? please explain it.