[PeterV]

Latest from www.rcm-rc.com. Looks really nice, carbon fiber version coming soon!

CHASSIS
Plate Material: Black G-10 Garolite
Topdeck weight: 1.3 oz (36.84 g)
Main Chassis weight: 6.0 oz (170.0 g)
Wheelbase: Standard
Environment: Off-Road
Model: Professional Racing
Vehicle: Traxxas Electric Rustler

Parts Included
● Main Chassis
● Top deck
● Battery Strap Kit
● Antenna Kit
● Servo Mount Kit
● Hardware Kit
● Standoff Kit
● Manual w/ photos

Description
The 10 year old Traxxas electric Rustler is in deperate need of better performance. Racers have been crying out for parts to keep their vehicles up to modern standards, and we are here to do just that with our all new Professional G-10 Chassis Kit.

This chassis sports a curvy top deck that reaches all the way to the rear tower for maximum strength, but still allows the battery to be mounted parallel to the chassis for greater stability. The top deck and main chassis are bound together in ten different locations by heavy-duty, aluminum standoff. This ensures that the chassis will have the most resistance to torsional and lateral flex.

So what about craftsmanship? Our kits are cut using high precision, Computer Numerically Controlled (CNC) Cutting machines. As always, all required hardware (and some extra parts) is included.

Each kit comes with a complete, full-length manual. Every step has a quality, color photo to assist in the installation process.

This chassis is unconditionally covered with our hefty Limited Lifetime Warranty and Factory Warrranty.

SHOCK TOWER
Plate Material: G-10 Garolite
Plate Weight: 0.6 oz (17.0 g)
Environment: Off-Road
Model: Professional Racing
Vehicle: Traxxas Electric Rustler/Stampede

Parts Included
• Front Tower Plate
• Hardware Kit
• Instruction Sheet

Description
Our all new front shock tower has been optimized to be a bolt-on fit for the Traxxas Electric Rustler, Stampede, and Bandit!

Replace the wobbly plastic Front Shock tower with this sturdy piece of hardware and never worry about tuneability again!

With 72 possible shock position combinations ranging from upright to laydown, this upgrade is sure to make your Rustler handle like a top-end touring car!

If You've been looking for one solid upgrade that's going to put your rustler at the top of the charts, then look no further-here is your answer!

[Holeshot101]

Isn't it a little late? I could see this would be sweet if it came out a few years back.

[ReppRacing]

As long as Rustlers are available, they'll sell.
Not too late IMO. Still a very popular platform.

[ElectricThunder]

Looks pretty neat. If you race a Rusty, then this would probably be a good idea, but for bashing, I wouldn't want to mess up that pretty finish.

Anyone know more about garolite; specifically how durable it is, stiff, and how it compares to maybe CF and Aluminum?

[PeterV]

A few Google hits...

G10-FR4 (FR4)is a fire rated electrical-grade, dielectric fiberglass laminate epoxy resin system combined with a glass fabric substrate. The abbreviation "FR4" means: F (for flame) and R (for retardancies) and the 4 is a # 4 epoxy. FR4 grades offer excellent chemical resistance, flame ratings (UL94-VO) and electrical properties under dry and humid conditions. FR4 also features high flexural, impact, superior mechanical strength and bond strength at temperatures up to 130°C. G10-FR4 is suitable for structural, electronic, pc boards and electrical applications.

Micarta) (High Pressure Laminates) G10/FR4 Glass Reinforced Epoxy - natural (yellowish to light green) Technical Data Sheet Chemical Resistance Chart
The most versatile all-around laminate and composite, this grade is a continuous glass woven fabric base impregnated with an epoxy resin binder. It has extremely high mechanical strength, good dielectric loss properties, and good electric strength properties, both wet and dry. NEMA grades G10 and FR4 Glass-Cloth Reinforced Epoxy -- natural color is typically a yellowish to light green. The most versatile all-around laminate grades are continuous glass woven fabric impregnated with an epoxy resin binder. (Epoxy resins are among the most versatile and widely used plastics in the electronics field, primarily because water absorption is virtually nil, rendering it an outstanding insulator. Beyond its electrical insulating properties, epoxy resins exhibit superior adhesive properties and great dimensional stability -- shrinkage is usually less than 1 percent.) G10/FR4 has extremely high mechanical strength, good dielectric loss properties, and good electric strength properties, both wet and dry. The main difference between NEMA Grades G10 and FR4 is that FR4 is a fire retardant grade of G10. Therefore, FR4 can be safely substituted where G10 is called for, while G10 can never be substituted where FR4 is called for. (G10 certifies to Mil-I-24768/2 GEE; FR4 certifies to Mil--24768/27 GEE-F.) NEMA grades G11 and FR5 Glass-Cloth Reinforced Epoxy -- natural color is typically yellow green to amber. This grade is similar to G10/FR4 with the addition of a higher operating temperature and some improved mechanical strength at elevated temperatures
Certifies to Mil-I-24768/27 GEE-F

[PeterV]

I used to buy G10 from Modern Plastics in 3/32 and 1/16 sheets for my custom projects (wacky pan-car things or Ultima chassis, usually). It's what we usually call "fiberglass" in RC. It's easy to cut with a carbite cutting disc, but it creates a fine epoxy dust that you do NOT want to breath (wear a respirator) but it does finish well and you can dye it with RIT fabric dye--I usually went for cobalt blue or black.

[ducati777]

Hmmm I don't see much point in fire resistance, but I do like the chasis. Seems like a perfect platform to run a great big saddle pack and a brushless setup.

[ElectricThunder]

Thanks Peter. Looks like some good, sturdy stuff (and fire retardant apparently! WOO!).

Also, when you say carbite (carbide?) cutting disc, are you talking with a dremel? Too bad you need a respirator (something I don't have, heh) for safety precautions; this would have been some great stuff to pick up just for custom projects I want to do (I have an itch for building something now that it's summer..).

CarBIDE, my bad on the typo. I used a blade something like this http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...PMT4NO=8421778 in a radial arm saw for straight cuts. I used a coping saw for curved corners and a Dremel for cleaning up burs and getting into corners. As for the respirator, you don't need anything fancy; a good dust mask is fine, it's not like you're going to be cutting the stuff all day in a factory (are you?) --Pete

[Maxxcrazy]

G10's tensile strength is 50000 psi, while CF's is 10800 psi. Its also much cheaper, only $12 for a 1/8"x12x12 sheet compared to the same size in CF, which costs $84

To cut G10, use anything without teeth, such as a cut off wheel. It will dull anything with teeth very quickly. Make sure to wear a mask and saftey goggles when cutting

[OutFrontFrames]

It is also MUCH easier to come by right now than Carbon fiber..

[rcbasher38]

maxxcrazy- where did u find the g10? im currently looking for a place to buy for cheap

[ElectricThunder]

Originally Posted by ElectricThunder

Thanks Peter. Looks like some good, sturdy stuff (and fire retardant apparently! WOO!).

Also, when you say carbite (carbide?) cutting disc, are you talking with a dremel? Too bad you need a respirator (something I don't have, heh) for safety precautions; this would have been some great stuff to pick up just for custom projects I want to do (I have an itch for building something now that it's summer..).

CarBIDE, my bad on the typo. I used a blade something like this http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...PMT4NO=8421778 in a radial arm saw for straight cuts. I used a coping saw for curved corners and a Dremel for cleaning up burs and getting into corners. As for the respirator, you don't need anything fancy; a good dust mask is fine, it's not like you're going to be cutting the stuff all day in a factory (are you?) --Pete

Gotcha. I'd still need to pick up a somewhat decent mask (I just have those stupid little blue dust masks; probably not the best thing in the world, but better than nothing).

Thanks for all the info! This stuff seems pretty durable. Maybe I'll make something out of it...I'm getting bored over this summer..

12 bucks vs. 84 bucks is also a MUCH better deal for a higher strength material. I'd guess CF is considerably lighter though (no matter to me..).

[Maxxcrazy]

Originally Posted by rcbasher38

maxxcrazy- where did u find the g10? im currently looking for a place to buy for cheap

www.mcmaster.com

I've never noticed a weight difference, they feel about the same

[R/C Kid]

Cool, but about 5 years too late

[PeterV]

...or just in time for the Rustler revamp!

[rcbasher38]

peter, i saw that you used to dye your chassis. is it just as easy as dying say rpm white wheels?

[microrcdude]

Wow! Only $60 for the kit to.....dang, really nice buy